temperate Climate, almost in forty six Degrees of North Latitude, and is
both fair and pleasant, and a wholsom Coast free from Rocks and Shelves;
so that of all other Harbours it lies the most South of any in the Land,
and most conveniently to receive our Shipping, passing to and from
_Virginia_ and the _Bermuda_ Islands; and also any other Shipping that
shall pass to and from the River of _Canada_, and the Coast thereof,
because they usually pass, and so return in the sight of the Land of
_Trespassey_, and also for some other purposes, as shall be partly
declar’d in the following Discourse.
[Sidenote: Fruitful Soil.]
The Soil of this Countrey in the Valleys and sides of the Mountains is
so fruitful, as that in divers places the Summer naturally produceth
without Tillage, great plenty of green Pease, and Fitches, fair, round,
full, and as wholsom as ours in _England_.
[Sidenote: Berries and Fruits.]
Of Berries and Fruits, there grows Strawberries, red and white, and as
fair Raspice-berries and Goose-berries as there be in _England_; as also
Bilberries, which are call’d by some _Whortes_, and many other delicate
Berries peculiar to the Countrey, in great abundance. Likewise small
Pears, Cherries, Filberds, _&c._
[Sidenote: Herbs and Flowers.]
There are also Herbs for Sallets and Broth, as Parsly, Alexander,
Sorrel, _&c._ and also Flowers, as the red and white Damask Rose, with
other kinds, which are most beautiful and delightful, both to the sight
and smell. And questionless, the Countrey is stor’d with many Physical
Herbs, though their Vertues are not known.
When Corn was first Sow’n here, it was observ’d to grow very fair, the
increase was great, and the Grain very good; and several sorts of
Kitchin Plants that have been Set here, have prov’d very well.
[Sidenote: Beasts.]
In divers parts of the Countrey there is great store of Deer, and some
Hares, many Foxes, Squerrils, Beavers, Martins and Otters, yielding
excellent Furrs, Wolves and Bears, with other sorts of Beasts, serving
as well for Necessity, as for Profit and Delight.
[Sidenote: Birds.]
Variety both of Land and Water-Fowl is in this Countrey infinite: The
chief Land-Fowl, besides a great number of small Birds, that live by
scraping their Food from the Earth in the hardest Winter, are Hawks,
great and small Partridges, Thrush, and Thrussels abundance, very fat;
as also Filladies, Nightingales, and such like, which sing most
pleasantly. There are also Birds that live by prey, as Ravens, Gripes,
Crows, _&c._ For Water-Fowl, there is certainly so good, and as much
variety, as in any part of the World, as Geese, Ducks, Pigeons, Gulls,
Penguins, and many other sorts. These Penguins are as big as Geese, but
do not flye, for they have but a little short Wing; and they multiply so
infinitely upon a certain flat Island, that men drive them from thence
upon a Board into their Boats by hundreds at a time, as if God had made
the innocency of so poor a Creature to become such an admirable
Instrument for the sustentation of Man: And also Godwits, Curlews, and
such like; which Fowl do not onely serve those that Trade thither for
Food, but also they are a great furthering to divers Ships Voyages,
because the abundance of them is such, that the Fisher-men do bait their
Hooks with the quarters of Sea-Fowl on them; and therewith some Ships do
yearly take a great part of their Fishing Voyages with such Bait, before
they can get others.
[Sidenote: Springs.]
The fresh Waters and Springs of that Countrey are many in number, and
withall so very pleasant, delightful and wholsom, that no Countrey in
the World hath better: And Fewel for Fireing, no where more plentiful.
[Sidenote: Trees.]
In like manner there is great abundance of Trees fit to be employ’d in
other serviceable uses: There are Fir and Spruce-Trees, sound, good, and
fit to Mast Ships with, and as commodious for Boards and Buildings as
those of _Norway_; and out of these come abundance of Turpentine.
Moreover the Pine and Birch-Trees here are scarce to be compar’d for
heighth and greatness.
The Rivers also and Harbours are generally stor’d with delicate Fish, as
Salmons, Peals, Eels, Herrings, Mackrel, Flounders, Launce, Capelin,
Cod, and Trouts, the fairest, fattest and sweetest, that ever were seen
in these Parts. The like for Lobsters, Cra-fish, Mussles, and other
variety of Shell-fish.
The Seas likewise all along the Coast, do plentifully abound in other
sorts of Fish, as Whales, _Spanish_ Mackrel, Dorrel, Pales, Herrings,
Hogs, Porposes, Seals, and such like Royal Fish, _&c._
But the chief Commodity of _New found Land_ yet known, and which is
grown to be a setled Trade, and that it may be much better’d by an
ordinary Plantation there, (if the Traders thither will take some better
course than formerly they have done, as shall be declared) is the
Cod-fishing upon that Coast, by which our Nation and many other
Countreys are enrich’d.
Almost incredible is the benefit of the Fish, which the _French_,
_Biscainers_, and _Portuguese_ fetch yearly from this Coast of
_New-found Land_, and the _Bank_, which lieth within twenty five Leagues
from the South Cape of that Countrey, where the _French_ use to Fish
Winter and Summer, usually making two Voyages every year thither. To
which Places, and to the Coast of _Canada_, which lieth near unto it,
are yearly sent from those Countreys, more than four hundred Sail of
Ships.
This Island of _Terra Nova_ belongs properly and justly to the Crown of
_England_, having been under the sole Jurisdiction of the _English_ from
the first Discovery thereof, which was by Sir _Sebastian Cabot_,
Employ’d by King _Henry_ the Seventh, to find out some other part of
_America_, than what had been discover’d by _Columbus_, as hath been
above declar’d in several places.
Afterwards King _Henry_ the Eighth continu’d the _English_ Interest
there, and Employ’d one _Rutt_ into that Island, in order to the
Plantation thereof.
Queen _Elizabeth_ no less careful to preserve that Plantation, sent Sir
_Humphrey Gilbert_, a _Devonshire_ Knight, to plant a Colony there, the
better to secure the same, and to increase Trading there; and
accordingly the said Sir _Humphrey_ with two good Ships and a Pinnace in
her Name, took possession of that Countrey, in the Harbour of _St.
Johns_. He Sail’d from thence towards _Virginia_, and by reason of some
unhappy direction in his Course, the greatest Ship he had struck upon
Shelves on the Coast of _Canada_, and was there lost, with most part of
the Company in her; and he himself, being then in a small Pinnace of
twenty Tun, in the company of his Vice-Admiral (Captain _Hays_)
returning towards _England_, in a great Storm, was overwhelm’d in the
Sea, and so perish’d.
In the Year 1608. it was undertaken anew by _John Guy_, a Merchant of
_Bristol_, and with so good success, that the Colony in a short time
were well furnish’d with Wheat, Rye, Barley, and other Grain of their
own Sowing, with Turnips, Coleworts, and abundance of other necessary
things, not without some probable hopes of Metals, a certain and
plentiful Trade of Sables, Musk, and other rich Commodities.
[Sidenote: The Province of _Avalon_ in _New-found Land_.]
In the Year 1620. Sir _George Calvert_ Knight, then principal Secretary
of State, and a Privy Councellor to King _James_ the First of _England_,
&c. purchas’d a part of _New-found Land_, which was afterwards in the
Year 1623. granted to him and his Heirs by Patent from the said King,
under the Great Seal of _England_, bearing Date the seventh of _April_,
in the One and twentieth Year of his Reign: by which means the said
Tract of Land was erected into a Province, and at the Instance of the
said Sir _George Calvert_, call’d _Avalon_, from _Avalon_ in
_Sommerset-shire_, where _Christianity_ was first Planted in England.
This Province lies in the forty seventh Degree of Northern Latitude, and
is thus bounded: It begins Southerly from the middle part of a certain
Neck of Land or Promontory, situate between the two Harbours, _Fermose_
and _Aquafort_; and from thence following the Shore towards the North
unto the middle part, or half way over a little Harbour, call’d in that
regard _Petit Port_, or _Petit Harbour_, which boundeth upon the South
part of the Plantation of _St. Johns_, including the one half of a
certain fresh River, that falleth into the said Port of _Petit Harbour_;
and so tending along the South Border of the said Colony of _St. Johns_,
extendeth it self to a certain little Bay, commonly call’d _Salmon
Cove_, lying on the South side of the Bay of _Conception_, including the
one half of the River that falleth into the said _Cove_, as also one
half of the _Cove_ it self; from whence passing along the Shore of the
said Bay towards the South, and reaching unto the bottom thereof, where
it meets with the Lands of the fore-mention’d _John Guy_, nam’d
_Sea-Forrest_, is bounded with a certain River or Brook, which there
falleth into the Sea, and from the Mouth of the said Brook ascendeth
unto the farthest Spring or Head thereof; from thence passing towards
the South for six Miles together along the Borders of the said _John
Guy_’s Plantation, and there crossing over Westward in a right Line,
reacheth unto the Bay of _Placentia_, and the space of one League within
the said Bay from the Shore thereof; whence turning again towards the
South, passeth along the Harbour of _Placentia_, with the like distance
from the Shore, and descending unto _New Falkland_ towards the North and
West part thereof, stretcheth it self in a right Line Eastward,
continuing the whole Southerly length upon the Bounds of the said _New
Falkland_, unto the middle part or Point of the Promontory, or Neck of
Land before mention’d, between the Ports _Fermose_ and _Aquafort_; at
which place is describ’d and finish’d the Perambulation of the whole
Precinct, whose Extent may be thus computed, commencing from the
Promontory between the Ports _Fermose_ and _Aquafort_, which is fifty or
sixty Miles from South to North distant from _Petit Harbour_; from
whence crossing Westward to the Bay of _Placentia_, is judg’d to be
sixty Miles more or upwards, from East to West.
And thereby was also granted to the said Sir _George Calvert_ and his
Heirs, all Islands and Islets, within ten Leagues of the Eastern Shore
of the said Region towards the East, together with the Fishing of all
sorts of Fish, saving unto the _English_ free liberty of Fishing, as
well in the Seas as in the Ports and Creeks of the Province aforesaid,
and the Priviledges of salting and drying their Fish upon the Shores of
the said Province, as heretofore they reasonably us’d and enjoy’d the
same, so as they do no injury or notable loss or detriment unto the Lord
Proprietary, his Heirs and Assigns, or to the Inhabitants of the said
Province, in the Ports, Creeks, and Shores aforesaid, and especially in
the Woods growing within the said Province.
And by the said Patent all Royal Jurisdictions and Prerogatives, both
Military and Civil, within the said Province and Islands thereunto
belonging, were farther granted to the said Sir _George Calvert_ and his
Heirs, and he and they thereby created the true and absolute Lords and
Proprietaries of the said Province, saving the Allegiance due to His
Majesty, His Heirs and Successors, to be held of them in _Capite_,
yielding and paying unto them therefore a white Horse, when, and as
often as any of them shall come into the said Province, and the fifth
part of all Gold and Silver Oar which should be found there.
Sir _George Calvert_, before the obtaining of this Patent, had caus’d a
fair House and Fort to be built in the said Province, at a place call’d
_Ferryland_, and in the Year 1624. having obtain’d a Dismission from his
Employment of Secretary of State, and being then created Lord
_Baltemore_ of _Baltemore_ in _Ireland_, he did in the Year 1627.
Transport himself to _Avalon_, to inspect his Concerns there in Person;
from whence returning the same year, he Embarqu’d himself again,
together with his Lady and all his Family, except his eldest Son, for
_Avalon_ the year following; at which time (there being then War between
_England_ and _France_) he redeem’d above twenty Sail of _English_
Ships, which had been taken there that year by _French_ Men of War,
whereof one Monsieur _De la Rade_ had the chief Command, and shortly
after took six _French_ Fishing-Ships upon that Coast, and sent them the
same year, with a great many _French_-men Prisoners, into _England_.
Coming thence, he left a Deputy there, and continu’d the Plantation till
his Death, which was in _April 1632._ After whose Decease it descended
of right to his Son and Heir _Cecil_, now Lord _Baltemore_; who
thereupon sent one Captain _William Hill_ as his Deputy thither, to take
possession thereof, and to manage his Interest there for him. Captain
_Hill_, according to his Commission, shortly after repair’d thither, and
liv’d some years at the Lord _Baltemore_’s House at _Ferryland_ above
mention’d.
In the thirteenth Year of King _Charles_ the First, of _England_, &c.
about the Year of our Lord 1638. Marquess _Hamilton_, Earl of
_Pembroke_, Sir _David Kirk_, and others, under pretence that the Lord
_Baltemore_ had deserted that Plantation, obtain’d a Patent of all
_New-found Land_, wherein _Avalon_ was included, and shortly after
dispossess’d the Lord _Baltemore_ of his Mansion House in _Ferryland_,
and other Rights there, and during the late Rebellion in _England_ kept
possession; but His now Majesty King _Charles_ the Second, immediately
after his most happy Restauration in the Year 1660, upon the now Lord
_Baltemore_’s Petition, thought fit to refer the whole Matter to be
Examin’d by Sir _Orlando Bridgeman_, then Lord-Chief-Justice, now Lord
Keeper of the Great Seal of _England_, and others, to report the true
state thereof to His Majesty, together with their Opinions thereupon:
The Referrees accordingly, upon full hearing of Council on both sides,
certifi’d, That they conceiv’d the said Patent to Sir _George Calvert_,
to be a good Patent, in force, and not avoided by the later to Sir
_David Kirk_ and others; and that the Title and Interest to the said
Province did therefore belong to the Lord _Baltemore_. Whereupon His
Majesty, on the twentieth of _March_ in the same Year, Order’d the
Possession thereof to be re-deliver’d to his Lordship, which was
accordingly executed: Since which time his Lordship has peaceably
enjoy’d the possession thereof, and continues the Plantation to this
day, by deputing Lieutenants there from time to time, for the better
Government of that Province, the rest of _New-found Land_ remaining
still to the aforesaid Proprietors, claiming by the Patent of 13 _Car._
1.
The Commodities that are either by Art or Nature produc’d there, are the
same with those of the remainder of _New-found Land_. The Winter there
is extream cold, the Summer very hot, but withal pleasant; and during
that Season there is great plenty of Pasture for Cattel.
The Coast of this Province is very safe, and as well furnish’d with
variety of bold and pleasant Harbors, as any other part of _New-found
Land_; where the _English_ likewise Fish for Cod, the lesser sort
whereof is call’d _Poor-John_, which is there caught in great abundance,
especially at _Ferryland_, and in the _Bay of Bulls_. Besides these two
there are divers other excellent Harbors on the Eastern Shore of
_Avalon_, as _Capling Bay_, _Cape Broyle_, _Brittus_, _Isle of Spears_,
_Barrom Cove_, _Whitburns Bay_, and _Petit Harbour_ above mention’d. On
the West are the Bay of _Placentia_, and several other good Harbors.
There are no _Indians_ in _Avalon_, and but few _English_, by reason of
the excessive Cold in Winter, though Sir _David Kirk_ and his Lady, and
also his Family, liv’d in the Lord _Baltemore_’s House at _Ferryland_
for the space of ten years and upwards.
The Soil seems to promise great store of Mines, which probably may in
time be discover’d. The late Lord _Baltemore_ took accidentally a piece
of Oar up that lay there upon the surface of the Earth, and brought it
with him into _England_, which was found upon trial to yield a greater
proportion of Silver, than the Oar of _Potosi_ in the _West-Indies_, but
hitherto no Mine of it hath been discover’d there.
The Trade of Fishing being of so great concernment to the Nation of
_England_, the same (if it be well manag’d in this Island of _Terra
Nova_) will employ every year above two hundred Sail of _English_ Ships,
and ten thousand Mariners, besides the great benefit which may accrue
unto the Nation by Imposition upon Strangers there, which would amount
to several thousands of Pounds _per Annum_; with which those Coasts may
be Guarded, and Ships Trading thither secur’d: besides the great Customs
by the Ships call’d _The Sacks_ (being commonly in great numbers every
year) who carry Fish from _New-found Land_ into the _Straights_,
_France_, _Portugal_, and _Spain_, and who bring their Returns into
_England_, as Bullion, and all other native Commodities of those
Countreys.
If the Island were well fortifi’d, we might Command all those of other
Nations that come to Fish in _New-found Land_, to pay Contribution in
Fish or otherwise, for their Priviledge to Fish there, the said Island
being first Planted by _English_, and pertaining to the Kingdom of
_England_; or if occasion should require, they might be utterly debarr’d
of Fishing there.
The Trade of Fishing is of so great concernment to _France_, _Spain_,
_Portugal_, the _Straights_, and other Parts, that they cannot well be
without that yearly Supply in Fish which comes from that Island: Neither
can the _Hollanders_, _Spaniards_, or _Portuguese_, well set any Ships
to the _West-Indies_, without _New-found Land_ Fish, there being none
that will endure to pass the Line sound and untainted, but the Fish of
that Countrey, salted and dry’d there. And so long as the Act continues
still in force, That no Fish be Transported from the said Island, but in
_English_ Bottoms, it will contribute very much to our encrease of
Shipping there, and by consequence, of the employment of Mariners; and
the Fishing of that part of the Island will be solely appropriated to
the _English_ Nation, to whom of right it belongs, which will prove the
greatest Ballance of Trade in that part of the World; and that whereas
above two hundred Sail do Trade thither yearly to Fish, if a thousand
Sail come, if there be but Fisher-men enow, they may all have Fraughtage
there.
The _French_, if once the Island be fortifi’d, will be depriv’d of their
Nursery of Mariners, this being the onely place, besides _Canada_, and
one or two adjacent Coasts, where they come for supply of Fish, with
which that Nation cannot be furnish’d so well from other Parts.
By well Planting and Fortifying _New-found Land_, the Trading to
_Virginia_, _New England_, and those Parts, would be much encourag’d,
_New England_ having had of late great Traffick with _New-found Land_,
where they vend the Growth of their Plantation. Besides, _New-found
Land_ is a Key to the Gulf of _Canada_, which if the _English_ had again
in their possession, as they had in the Years 1628. and 1632. they might
give a Law to all foreign Kings and People interested in any of the
parts of _America_, and a Protection to all the _English_ Plantations
upon that Continent, whereby great security, comfort and profit would
arise to the Nation and People of it: whereas on the contrary, if the
_French_, _Spanish_, or _Dutch_, should possess themselves of the said
Plantation, they would not onely deprive this Nation of all the
Advantages aforesaid, but would also derive to themselves so great a
Power to prejudice all the Plantations of the Coasts of _America_
belonging to this Nation, that the Inconveniences thereof are scarce to
be imagin’d or express’d.
[Illustration: mappa ÆSTIVARVM Infularum]
After the granting of the Patent aforesaid of 13 _Car._ 1. Sir _David
Kirk_’s great Pains there, and constant Endeavours, were beyond
expectation bless’d with a continuance and preservation of Trade in that
Place; in the carrying on of which, he had always a special regard to
the real Advantage of this Kingdom, and the particular Service of His
Majesty.
[Sidenote: The wonderful Bank of _Terra Nova_.]
[Sidenote: _The Baccaloos._]
Before this Island, right over against _Cape Ray_, at the distance of
twenty four Leagues or more, there lieth an huge Bank or Ridge of Land,
extending it self in length out of the Sea, above a hundred Leagues, but
in breadth not above four or five and twenty, when it is broadest, and
in other parts much less, sharpning towards each end into a _Conus_, or
narrow Point. It is accounted one of the Wonders of the Sea, which round
about, at some distance, is very deep, and hardly to be sounded,
especially betwixt the _Bank_ (for so they commonly call it) and _Cape
Ray_, but drawing nearer, it grows by degrees more and more shallow,
insomuch that nigh the Land there is not much more Water than is
necessary for the Ships to Ride in. It runneth out in length, as was
said, from North to South, from forty one Degrees of Latitude to fifty
two; and round about it there lie scatter’d a multitude of lesser
Islands, which Sir _Sebastian Cabot_, when he first discover’d the
Place, call’d by one common Name _Los Baccaloos_, or _The Islands of
Cod-fish_, from the great quantity of that sort of Fish he there found;
which was such, that they hindred the passage of his Ships, and lay in
such multitudes upon the Coasts, that the very Bears would come and
catch them in their Claws, and draw them to Land.
[Sidenote: The Isle of _Assumption_.]
In the Gulf of _St. Laurence_, towards the Mouth of the River _Canada_,
is another less considerable Island, said to have been first discover’d
by _Quartier_, and by him call’d _The Island of Assumption_; by _John
Alphonso_, _The Island of Ascension_; by the Natives, _Natistcotec_: It
extends it self from the forty eighth to the fiftieth Degree, between
the South-East and North-West.
_Quartier_ makes mention of a strange kinde of Fish, found in the River
of _Canada_, like unto a Sea-Hog, but having the Head of a Hare, it is
call’d by the Natives _Adhothuys_.
Not far from this is a little Island, call’d by the _French_, _Isle de
Sable_, or _The Sandy Island_; and another on the West of _Terra Nova_,
call’d _Isle de Bretons_, or _The Island of St. Laurence_, besides
several little scatter’d Islands in the Gulf of _St. Laurence_, as
_Menego_, and _The Three Islands of Birds_; in which are found a kind of
amphibious Animal, call’d by the _French_, _Cualrus_, and by the
_Russians_, _Morsh_; somewhat like a Sea-Calf, but more monstrous.
[Illustration]
CHAP. XII.
The Bermudas, or Summer-Islands.
[Sidenote: Situation of the _Bermudas_.]