ACROSS THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE
The next morning they made an early start, and following up the
Firehole, turned up a branch coming in from the east, only a
short distance beyond Old Faithful. They purposed to go over to
Shoshone Lake, and camp there, and to do this they must pass over
the Continental Divide, for the Firehole finds its way through the
Madison River, and the Missouri, to the Atlantic Ocean, while the
waters of the Shoshone Lake fall into Snake River, then into the
Columbia, and so at last reach the Pacific.
The way was pleasant, through park-like openings and green timber,
and the distance not great. There was no trail, but they followed
up a narrow grassy valley, whose slopes on either side were clothed
with pines.
At last, when Hugh thought they must be near the Divide, they
found down timber, and began to wind about among the logs. Little
by little, however, matters grew worse, and presently a stick was
encountered over which old Baldy could not step, but on which he
caught his foot and almost fell. Here all hands dismounted, and
getting an ax out of a pack, Hugh and the boys went ahead, and by
lifting some of the larger sticks, and breaking smaller ones, and
a little chopping, a way was soon made by which the horses could
pass along.
Beyond this timber was an open and almost level country, which Hugh
declared was the Divide, and passing along a little further, they
began to go down a gentle hill. Here there were park-like meadows
and low wooded hills on either side. There were a few little
gullies, but no water; and in the dry stream-beds and water-holes
were many tracks of elk, all made in the spring when the ground was
soft. From the summit of this Divide, when snows are melting in
the early summer, little trickles of water pour down the opposite
sides of the mountains, some to the north, to find their way into
the Firehole; others south toward Snake River. Hugh followed the
general direction of one of these water-courses, which constantly
grew larger, and presently turned into one still wider, whose sandy
bottom was dotted with great blocks of black lava. Hugh pointed out
these to the boys, and said to them, "That's the stuff that in old
times many of the Indians used to make their arrow points from. It
must have been a great article of trade, for away up north of the
boundary line I have seen little piles of chips of that black glass
lying on the prairie, where men have been making arrow-heads, and I
know that there wasn't any of the rock within 400 miles."
All along the valley of this dry stream was a beautiful park of
gently rolling country, with timbered knolls and open grassy
intervales. Some of the trees were very large--two or three feet in
diameter.
It was early in the afternoon when they reached Shoshone Lake,
and riding along its smooth, firm beach, camped in a little point
of spruces. The lake was large, and looked as if it should have a
fish in it. Jack got out his rod and put it together, and standing
it against a tree, went back into the open meadow where the horses
were feeding, to catch grasshoppers. He caught half a dozen, and
then, returning, fished faithfully for quite a long distance along
the shore, but without success. Neither could he see anywhere that
fish were rising, and he wondered whether it could be possible that
this beautiful lake, which seemed an ideal home for trout, should
have none in it. Joe, on the other hand, as soon as camp had been
made, had taken his rifle and started out on foot, working along
the edge of the lake and looking for game. He found many old elk
tracks and a very few made by deer, but went quite a long distance
without seeing anything. Then, turning away from the shore of the
lake, and taking the hillside at some distance from it, he began to
work back to the camp. Here there were more deer tracks, but none
that seemed worth while for him to follow, and he began to feel
discouraged. When he had come almost opposite the camp he crossed
a wide dry water-course, going now rather carelessly, though still
making no noise, yet not trying to keep out of sight. As he climbed
the gentle slope, after crossing the little valley, and had almost
reached the top, he stopped, and turned about and looked backward,
and there to his astonishment saw, projecting above a patch of low
willows and weeds, the heads of two fawns. They were staring at him
most innocently, but the camp needed meat, and bringing his rifle
to his shoulder he fired at the neck of one of them, and the little
deer disappeared, while the other turned about and raced away
through the brush.
Going to the place Joe found the fawn quite a small one, though it
had already lost its spotted coat. He dressed it, and then throwing
it on his shoulders walked quickly to the camp. As he came in front
of the lodge, Hugh said to him, "Hello, Joe, what have you got
there, a jack rabbit?"
"Well," said Joe, "it is not much bigger, but it's the only thing
I have seen except another of the same size, and that I could not
shoot at."
That night as the sun went down the wind began to blow a fresh dry
wholesome breeze from the west. The wind raised quite a sea on the
lake, and big waves tumbled up on the beach one after another,
so fast that it was not an easy matter to get a bucket of water
without at the same time getting a wet foot. Jack and Joe walked
along the beach a little way.
"Do you know, Joe," said Jack, "this looks to me just like the
seashore; the wind blows in the same way, and the waves have the
same white-caps, and the surf roars as it pounds on the beach; and
there is the moon on the water. Why it seems to me just like some
nights I have walked on the beach, back east on the Long Island
shore."
"Well," said Joe, "it's not like anything I ever saw before. Up in
our country we don't have sand beaches like this, though we do have
the lake, and the waves and the wind."
The animals were packed early next day, and they followed the
shores of the lake southward. In some places they could see where
elk had passed along recently, and there were tracks of bulls and
cows and calves. In some places, too, along the beach the pines,
which were small yet looked old, were all bent toward the eastward,
and had no branches on the western side. Joe pointed these trees
out to Hugh and said, "Why is it Hugh that these trees seem all
bent one way, and have no branches on the other side; is it the
wind?"
"Yes," said Hugh, "the wind. You'll see that in lots of places,
especially on mountain tops, and along big waters like this, where
the wind blows mostly from the west and northwest, and gets a wide
sweep."
The wind was still blowing hard, and the lake was in a turmoil. The
air was cold, and all hands wore their coats as they rode along.
A day's journey took them by Shoshone Lake and Lewis Lake, and
they camped below it on Lewis Fork. For much of the distance the
trail passed through an attractive open country, full of streams
and springs, and dotted with clumps of thick willow brush; while on
the higher lands were the ever-present pines. To the left was the
lofty ridge of the Red Mountain Range, down which half a hundred
beautiful cascades hurried toward the river. To the right was the
stream, and beyond the steep sides of the Pitchstone Plateau, so
called from the black glossy fragments of the lava rock, of which
the soil is largely made up. It was evident that this would be
a hard trail in the early spring, for it was low and wet, and
animals would have trouble in passing over it at any except the
dry season.
A few miles below the camp they began to look for a ford. The
stream looked deep and difficult, yet it was necessary for them to
cross it, for on the east side the mountains came down close to the
river in a steep and impassable jumble of slide rock. Just above
them they could see a great water-fall, not far below the lake.
It was now getting toward night, and Hugh was a little uncertain
whether to cross this stream, or to camp on this side. However, he
determined to cross, and stopping, had the boys catch up the pack
animals, while he rode into the stream to prospect for a ford. He
kept diagonally down the river, going very slowly, and feeling for
the shoalest places, but at last, reached the opposite bank and
climbed out. Then, turning about, he recrossed, and telling the
boys to keep the horses close to him, he led them into the stream.
The ford was rather deep, the water coming more than half way up
the horses' bodies, so that they all tucked their feet up behind
them on the saddle, and rode along with some anxiety, lest a false
step or a stumble over the great stones which formed the river
bottom should throw down one of the animals, and so wet either a
pack or a rider. However, the crossing was made safely, and then
climbing the steep hill, they kept on through the timber, soon,
however, camping by a little spring, in an opening where there was
food for the animals.
By the time camp was made, the sun had set and it was too late to
hunt. The little deer had all been eaten, and once more they made
their meal on dried meat and back-fat.
The next day they kept on through the green timber, riding over
ridges and at a distance from the stream, though now and then they
had glimpses of its dark hurrying waters. To the right were seen
some little lakes, one of them covered with water-fowl. Across the
trail that they were following--if it could be called a trail--was
some fallen timber, but nothing that delayed them. Jack noticed
that some of the living trees were curiously bent in their growth,
sometimes at right angles to the vertical a foot or two from the
ground, the trunk growing six inches or a foot horizontally, and
then turning once more straight toward the sky, the remainder
of the tree being straight as an arrow. In some cases the bend
was more than this, the tree growing straight up for a foot, and
then turning over, growing down for a few inches or a foot, and
then making another curve, and growing upright once more. Some of
these curves were almost shaped like the letter S, and Jack kept
wondering what caused these bends. As they stopped at midday to
unsaddle and let the horses feed and to eat something themselves,
Jack asked Hugh about the curious way in which these trees grew.
Hugh smiled and said, "I don't much wonder you ask about that, son.
I remember that I used to think about that a good deal, and wonder
how it happened. But it is easy enough to explain if you once get
onto it, and you can easily enough get onto it if you travel around
through the mountains enough.
"You know I told you the other day," he continued, "that when a
country has been burned over, the trees stand for a good many
years, and then they commence to fall in all directions. Likely
enough before they begin to fall, a whole lot of young trees and
sprouts have started from the ground, and are growing among them.
Now, nothing is more likely than that some of these falling trees
may happen to fall upon these young saplings and sprouts. Some of
them they smash down flat, and the sprout dies; but sometimes they
fall so as just to bend a sprout over, or so that a little small
sprout just growing is bound to grow up against the log as the
sprout grows larger. These young trees are springy and bend easily.
Of course the ones that are smashed down and broken off short are
killed; we never hear anything more of them. But likely enough
there are some young and hardy plants caught beneath the tops or
branches of the fallen trees within a foot or two of the ground,
and not much hurt but just held down. Sometimes these little trees
are pressed flat to the ground, and when they are, they usually
die. But if they are only bent over a few inches, or a foot or two
from the ground, they don't always die. Instead of that they keep
on growing, and of course the top of the growing tree keeps on
reaching up all the time toward the light. No matter if it is bent
flat, it tends to turn upward, so that all of it beyond the place
where the dead tree is pressing on it grows straight, just like all
the other trees around it. Then, after a while the dead stick which
is holding the young tree down, rots, and at last disappears. The
injured tree grows larger and larger, and at last gets to be a big
tree; and there is then nothing to show how this big tree should
have grown in such a bent, queer fashion."
"Well now, Hugh, that's mighty interesting," said Jack, "and I
ought to have worked it out for myself, for three or four times
to-day I saw dead trees pressing little green sprouts over to one
side; but I never thought about that being the reason for the bends
in these big trees. The fact is, I never thought of them bending
while the trees were young, but supposed it must be some accident
or disease that had struck the trees after they were big."
"Well," said Hugh, "you see it's all simple enough, if you
understand it."
"Simple!" said Jack, "Why it's simple as rolling off a log; but
you've got to understand the reason."
"Well," said Hugh, "you keep your eyes open as you ride through
the timber, and you'll see the very thing I've been talking about,
happening before your face all the time."
The wind blew fiercely all day long, though when they were in
the timber they hardly felt it, and only the sighing of the
pines and occasionally the crash of some distant tree told of
the force of the gale. They crossed Snake River about noon, and
kept on southward. During a halt at the river all hands went to
the fishing, and caught some splendid trout, which they promptly
cooked and which gave them a delicious meal. A little more fishing
furnished them with enough fish for two or three meals more, and
Jack was hard at work trying to catch a big one that he had seen
rise, when he saw two great shadows on the water, and looking up,
saw only a few yards above him a pair of great sand-hill cranes.
They were not in the least afraid, and flying on a little further,
alighted in the meadow where they fed, walking about in most
dignified fashion until the train started on again, and alarmed
them.
As they went into camp that afternoon at a little spring, Hugh said
to the boys, "Now, look here; if one of you don't go out pretty
soon and kill something, I'll have to do that myself. This camp
needs fresh meat. Dried meat and back-fat is good; fish are good;
but we want either a deer or an elk; or, better still, if you can
find it, a buffalo; but I reckon these bison here in the mountains
are a little too smart for any of us. They're pretty scarce, and
they're pretty watchful."
"Well," said Jack, "which one of us shall go? We can't both go,
because one has got to stay and help drive the animals. I'll toss
up with you, Joe, to see which shall hunt to-morrow morning."
"All right," said Joe, "I'll toss up;" but as no one of them had a
coin, Jack took a fresh chip, and rubbing some black earth on one
side of it, said, "We'll call that black side heads, and the other
tails; and Hugh will throw the chip. You call, Joe." Hugh tossed
the chip into the air, and Joe called heads. But the chip came down
the clean side up, and so Jack was to go hunting next morning.
As soon as the animals were packed, Jack started off, keeping to
the right of the trail and up the hill. He knew, of course, that
at this time of the year the elk were likely to be found high up,
and the deer, too; for the flies and mosquitoes were bad. The
underbrush was thick, and there were many marshy places, and once
this hillside had been covered with a great forest, for it was
strewn with logs. The underbrush seemed higher and thicker than he
had been accustomed to, and he saw many sorts of plants that he
did not remember to have seen before; and at last it struck him
that perhaps as he was now on the western side of the Continental
Divide, the rain-fall might be greater, and that this might make a
difference in the vegetation. Willow and alders, and other brush,
made riding rather difficult, and besides that, the hillsides
grew steeper and steeper, until at last Jack dismounted, and
clambering up on foot, left Pawnee to follow, as he had long ago
been trained to do. Getting up on a high ridge, bald now, though
once forest-grown, for the ground was strewn with great charred and
rotting tree-trunks, long before killed by fire, he followed the
ridge toward higher land, and gradually climbing, at last reached a
commanding height, from which he saw the beautiful Jackson's Lake,
and its lovely surroundings.
To the eastward the Red Mountain Ridge, rising above him, cut off
the view, but northeast he could see the valley of Snake River,
broad near at hand, but narrowing further off, until the mountains,
closing in, hid the silver ribbon of the stream's course. To the
west were the splendid gray and white masses of the Teton range,
low and rounded toward the north, with long easy ridges of moderate
steepness, and crowned with great fields of snow. Toward the
southward the mountains became more and more abrupt, until at last
the highest peak of all, Jack knew must be the Grand Teton. From
this pinnacle the ridge gradually sank away again, becoming lower
and lower in the blue and misty distance. Immediately under the
ridge, and south of where Jack stood, was Jackson's Lake. He had
often heard Hugh speak of Jackson's Hole and Jackson's Lake, spots
for many years hardly known to white men, and about which most
marvelous stories were told. Here, men used to say--the miners that
the streams were paved with nuggets of gold, the trappers that the
rivers and forests abounded in fur, the hunters that game was so
abundant and so tame that there was always plenty to eat, and the
camp never starved; and now this wonderful region lay before him.
And yet he knew that within the past few years many people had
passed through this place. He knew that the miners had washed the
sands of the rivers, but found that they did not pay; that trappers
had caught the beaver and the marten, and had soon trapped almost
all of them. Now it was for him to find whether the game was as
plenty as had been said.
At all events, Jackson's Lake with the wide meadows that surrounded
it, and the superb mountains that walled it in on one side, made
this a lovely spot. The lake shone in the sunlight like a sheet
of silver, and was dotted with pine-clad islands. On the west its
waters flowed close beneath the great mountains which rose above
it, but on the other three sides a belt of forest grew close to
the water, and back of this belt, broad meadow lands, with groups
of trees and low rounded clumps of willows, looked almost like a
park. Further to the eastward bare ridges rose higher and higher,
forming the foot-hills of the main range, and still further to the
east and southeast were massive mountains, more distant--and so
seeming lower--than the Teton Range, but which were the Continental
Divide. Jack looked, and looked, and enjoyed this beautiful view;
but after a little he realized that time was passing, and that he
must move on, and do his hunting, and get to camp.
He crossed the ridge, and began to ride down the side of the
mountain toward the south, following the crest of a hog-back, which
would take him down to the valley of the lake by a gentle slope.
Below, and to his left, was a narrow valley, in which stood green
timber, and among the green timber much that was dead and much that
was down.