CHAPTER 29.

MISFORTUNES OF THE COLONY.

Many causes have unhappily united to keep Western Australia from

rising into notice and importance with that rapidity which has marked

the career of the other Australian colonies. The misfortunes of the

first settlers, attributable in a great measure to flagrant

mismanagement, deterred intending emigrants from tempting the like

fate. The man who had the largest grant in the colony allotted to

him -- a monster grant of 250,000 acres -- made so ill an use of the

means at his command, that nothing but misery and misfortune has ever

attended his steps. The funds with which he was intrusted might have

been applied with the happiest effect, both for the advancement of

the colony and of his own personal fortunes. The people whom he

brought out, chiefly mechanics and labourers, to the number of four

hundred or upwards, were sufficient to have formed a settlement of

their own. By an unhappy fatality, the early settlers were landed on

a part of the coast the most unfavourable in the world for their

purposes. The whole country around them was a mere limestone rock.

Here, however, the town-site of Clarence was fixed upon, but scarcely

a yard of land was to be found that afforded space for a garden. No

attempt was made to sow grain, or plant potatoes, to provide for the

wants of the following year.

The people lived upon the provisions they had brought out with them.

The four hundred workmen being left by their principal without

direction or employment, soon consumed in riotous living the abundant

stores left at their disposal, and too soon found that destitution is

the inevitable consequence of idleness and folly. Many perished

miserably of want and sickness, and many others effected their escape

to Van Dieman's Land, where they gave a melancholy account of the

wretchedness of those who were unable to flee from the scene of their

errors.

The active intelligence, and unremitting exertions of the Governor,

Sir James Stirling, at length ameliorated the condition of the

unfortunate settlers. He removed the seat of Government to Perth,

and explored the neighbouring country in every direction in the hope

of finding tracts of land sufficient for the support of the people

under his charge. The flats of the Swan River afforded all the

facilities he required; but the settlers were greatly intimidated by

the treacherous attacks of the natives, and were very reluctant to

separate from the main body. In consequence of these fears, many

consumed their capital in their present support, instead of applying

it in the formation of farms, and laying the ground-work of future

prosperity. Provisions being all imported, were sold at high rates,

and the hesitating colonists became unavoidably subservient to the

cupidity of the traders.

In addition to these misfortunes, no man liked to lay out his money

in building a house upon land which might not eventually be allotted

to him. He lived therefore, with his wife, children, and servants,

miserably under a tent, until the surveyor-general should be able to

point out to him the land which had fallen to his share, in the

general lottery of the Government. In many cases this was not done

for one or two years after the formation of the colony, in

consequence of the lamentably inefficient force placed at the

disposal of the able and indefatigable surveyor-general; and even

then, the boundaries of the different allotments were not permanently

defined. This state of incertitude had the most fatal effect, not

only upon the fortunes, but upon the moral condition of the settlers.

Those who had come out resolutely bent upon cultivating their own

land, and supporting themselves and families by their manual labour,

refused to make the necessary exertions upon property which might

eventually belong to others for whom they had no desire to toil.

Waiting, therefore, in their tents on the shore, until the Government

should determine their respective locations, they passed the time in

idleness, or in drinking and riotous living; and when at length they

obtained their Letters of Allocation, they found themselves without

money or any means of subsistence, except by hiring out their manual

labour to others more prudent, or more fortunate.

Other accidental circumstances have combined to retard the progress

of the colony. From ignorance of the seasons, many lost their crops,

and were obliged consequently to expend the last remains of their

capital in procuring necessary supplies. From the same cause,

vessels which brought emigrants to the colony were not secured during

the winter season in the safest anchorages, and being exposed to the

fury of the north-west gales, were in too many instances, driven

ashore and completely wrecked.

Again, too, there has always existed a strong desire on the part of

Western Australia to connect herself with India, conscious that there

are great facilities of communication between the countries, from

favourable trade-winds, and that her own climate is perhaps better

suited to invalids than even that of the Cape. This desire has been

met by several influential gentleman of Calcutta, and on two

occasions, vessels were freighted and despatched from that city to

the colony, in the hope of establishing a mutually advantageous

connexion, and on both occasions the vessels were lost on the voyage.

At length a small establishment was effected near Australind, by the

agents of Mr. W. H. Prinsep, for the purpose of breeding horses for

the Indian market; and we most sincerely hope success will ultimately

attend the enterprising effort. Indian officers have occasionally

visited the colony; but they have naturally received unfavourable

impressions, from being unable to find those accommodations and

luxuries to which they had been accustomed.

The settlers will not build houses and lay out their money on the

mere speculation of gaining advantage by the visits of Indian

officers, but if once there appeared a reasonable prospect of early

remuneration, every convenience would be provided, and every comfort

ensured to visitors. Living is now extremely cheap, and there is a

profusion of vegetables and fruits of every kind. There are plenty

of good horses and pleasure-boats, and there are the amusements of

fishing, and hunting the Kangaroo and Emu.

The misconduct of some, and the misfortunes of others of the early

settlers, tended to bring about calamities which were echoed

throughout Great Britain, and for many years had the effect of

turning the stream of emigration away from these shores. Other

causes have also contributed to this end. The Government plan of

giving grants of land to emigrants, proportioned to the capital which

they introduced into the colony, was good to a certain extent, but

the object was perverted, and the boon abused. In almost all

instances, men received a much greater quantity of land than they

were justly entitled to. Every article of provisions, furniture, and

household effects, and even wearing apparel, were taken into account.

The valuations were made by friends and neighbours, who accommodated

one another, and rated the property of the applicant at a most

astounding price. The consequence has been, that large grants of

land have fallen into the hands of those who have never lived upon

them, or spent anything upon their improvement, beyond a fictitious

amount which they were required to specify to the Government before

they could obtain possession of their deeds of grant. These original

grantees have clung to their lands with desperate tenacity, in the

hope that some day their value will be more than nominal. The idea

that all the best portions of the colony are in the hands of a few

great unimproving proprietors, has been one reason why emigrants have

turned away from it.

But the provision, which has so long been an evil to the colony, may

now be looked upon, thanks to the narrow-minded policy of the Home

Government, as an advantage. These original grants, which have

proved so little beneficial to the owner, and so highly detrimental

to the community, are now far more easily obtainable by the emigrant

than the surrounding crown-lands. The policy of the Government has

entirely changed with regard to the disposal of waste lands in the

Australian colonies; instead of giving them away with a lavish hand,

it has for some years been the practice to throw every obstacle in

the way of intending purchasers.

They are now valued at one pound per acre, though it is well known,

even at the colonial office, that five acres of Australian land are

requisite to maintain a single sheep; and as the average value of

sheep in all these colonies is six or seven shillings, it scarcely

requires the head of a Secretary of State to calculate that every one

who buys land for the purpose of feeding his flocks upon it, must be

content to purchase it at an irreparable loss of capital. In

consequence of this wise regulation, no purchase of crown-lands are

now made in any of the Australian colonies, except of town

allotments, which have a factitious value, altogether irrespective of

the qualities of the soil. It is now that the holders of large

grants find purchasers, as they are extremely willing to sell at a

much lower rate than the crown. In Western Australia alone, however,

are these grants to be found; and here excellent land may be

purchased at three shillings an acre. Thus the careless profusion of

one government, and the false policy and unhappy cupidity of another,

have proved the means of placing this colony in a better position in

some respects than any other.

Western Australia has been unfortunate also in having had no powerful

company to support her cause in England. The neighbouring colony of

South Australia, with a much less extensive territory, and without

any natural superiority in the quality of the soil, was immediately

puffed into notice by the exertions of her friends at home.

But whilst the settlers at Adelaide and their patrons in London,

proclaimed to the world the advantages of the new colony, they

scrupled not to draw comparisons between it and the Western

settlement, that were neither flattering nor just to the latter. Not

content with elevating their own idol with paeans and thanksgiving,

before the gaze of a bedinned public, they persisted in shouting out

their scorn and contempt at the pretensions of their unhappy

neighbour. The public, with its usual discernment, gave implicit

credence to both fables. Western Australia had met its contumelious

detractors with silence; and the false statements were therefore

looked upon as admitted and undeniable. But notwithstanding the

injurious misrepresentations of enemies, and her own injurious

silence, this colony has been quietly and steadily progressing, until

she has laid for herself a foundation that no envious calumny can

shake. The last blow she has received was from the failure of the

settlement at Australind; a subject that I intend to treat of in a

separate chapter.

So many misfortunes and untoward accidents have combined to prejudice

the emigrating portion of the British public against Western

Australia, that no voice is ever raised in her behalf, and scarcely

any literary journal condescends to acknowledge her existence. And

yet, notwithstanding the veil of darkness that conceals her from

Northern eyes, there is perhaps no spot in the world that contains so

eminently within itself the elements of prosperity and happiness. A

climate more genial, more divine than that of Italy, robs poverty of

its bleakness and its bitterness. Absolute want is never felt, and

those who possess but little, find how little is sufficient in a

climate so productive and so beneficent.

The purity and elasticity of the atmosphere induce a continual flow

of good spirits.

To all the fruits of Italy in most abundant profusion, are added the

productions of the East.

The regularity of the seasons is so certain, that the husbandman

always reckons with confidence upon his crops. No droughts

interfere, AS IN THE OTHER COLONIES, to ruin his hopes. The

vintages, annually increasing and improving, are equally free

from disappointment.

It must not, however, be denied that there are many natural

disadvantages which can never be overcome without a much larger

population.

In the first place, the only good harbour on the Western coast has

only just been discovered -- June 1846 -- and is at least thirty-five

miles distant from Perth, the capital. Then, secondly, all the

superior land of the colony is situated about sixty miles back from

the capital, and the farmers therefore have a considerable distance

to convey their produce to the port; and part of that distance the

roads are extremely bad.

There is another objection to the colony in the opinion of intending

emigrants, which arises from a small plant, or shrub, of the order

leguminosae, a deadly poison to sheep and cattle. This plant grows

over the colony in patches, but is now so well known, that accidents

very seldom occur from it, shepherds being careful not to allow their

flocks to feed in its vicinity. It is however to be observed, that

neither sheep nor cattle will feed upon this plant unless they be

very hungry, and other food be wanting. It is very seldom indeed

that cattle, which are sometimes left to roam at large over the

country, are found to have perished from pasturing upon it. This

plant has no injurious effect upon horses; but these animals have in

several instances been poisoned by eating the leaves of a small plant

described as resembling the ranunculus, which grows in small

quantities in the Southern portion of the colony. A gentleman once

informed me that he was riding up from Australind on a favourite and

very fine horse, which he allowed to feed, during several hours of

rest, on a spot where this plant unfortunately grew. On mounting to

resume his journey, the horse seemed full of spirit; but he had not

proceeded a mile before it stumbled, and was with difficulty kept

from falling. A little farther on, after proceeding with evident

difficulty, it fell, to rise no more, and died in a few hours of

violent inflammation of the kidneys.

However alarming these drawbacks may seem to people at a distance,

they are only lightly considered in the colony. Fatalities are very

rare among the flocks and herds, and many diseases which prevail in

New South Wales are entirely unknown among us.

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