CHAPTER 3.

THE MUTINY.

We remained a week at St. Jago, the captain being busily engaged in

taking in water, and quarrelling with his crew. One day, at the

instigation of our friend, the French waiter, we made a trip of seven

miles into the interior of the island, to visit a beautiful valley

called Trinidad. Mounted on donkeys, and attended by two ragged,

copper-coloured youths, we proceeded in gallant style up the main

street, and, leaving the town, crossed the valley beyond it, and

emerged into the open country. It was a rough, stony, and hilly

road, through a barren waste, where there scarcely appeared a stray

blade of grass for the goats which rambled over it in anxious

search of herbage.

At length, after a wearisome ride of several hours, we descended

suddenly into the most fertile and luxuriant valley I ever beheld,

and which seemed to extend a distance of some miles. A mountain

brook flowed down the midst, on the banks of which numerous scattered

and picturesque cottages appeared. On either side the ground was

covered with the green carpet of Nature in the spring of the year.

Everywhere, except in this smiling valley, we saw nothing but the

aridity of summer, and the desolation caused by a scorching tropical

sun. But here -- how very different! How sudden, how magical was

the change! Every species of vegetable grew here in finest

luxuriance. Melons of every variety, pine-apples, sweet potatoes,

plantains, and bananas, with their broad and drooping leaves of

freshest green and rich purple flower, and ripe yellow fruit.

Orange-trees, cocoa-nut trees, limes -- the fig, the vine, the

citron, the pomegranate, and numerous others, grateful to the weary

sight, and bearing precious stores amid their branches, combined to

give the appearance of wealth and plenty to this happy valley. It

was not, however, destined to be entered by us without a fierce

combat for precedence between two of our steeds. The animal whom it

was the evil lot of Meliboeus to bestride, suddenly threw back its

ears, and darted madly upon the doctor's quadruped, which, on its

side, manifested no reluctance to the fight.

Dreadful was the scene; the furious donkeys nearing and striking with

their fore-feet, and biting each other about the head and neck

without the smallest feeling of compunction or remorse; the two

guides shrieking and swearing in Portuguese at the donkeys and each

other, and striking right and left with their long staves, perfectly

indifferent as to whom they hit; the unhappy riders, furious with

fright and chagrin, shouting in English to the belligerents of both

classes to "keep off!" The screams of two women, who were carrying

water in the neighbourhood, enhanced by the barking of a terrified

cur, that ran blindly hither and thither with its tail between its

legs, in a state of frantic excitement -- altogether produced a

tableau of the most spirited description. Peace was at length

restored, and we all dismounted from our saddles with fully as much

satisfaction as we had experienced when vaulting into them.

There is little more to say about the valley of Trinidad. The

cottagers who supply the town of Porto Praya with fruits and

vegetables are extremely poor, and very uncleanly and untidy in their

houses and habits. We had intended to spend the night with them, but

the appearance of the accommodations determined us to return to our

inn, in spite of the friendly and disinterested advice of our guides.

St. Jago abounds with soldiers and priests; the former of whom are

chiefly convicts from Lisbon, condemned to serve here in the ranks.

The day for sailing arrived, and we were all on board and ready. Our

barque was a temperance ship; that is, she belonged to owners who

refused to allow their sailors the old measure of a wine-glass of rum

in the morning, and another in the afternoon, but liberally

substituted an extra pint of water instead.

There is always one thing remarkable about these temperance ships,

that when they arrive in harbour, their crews, excited to madness by

long abstinence from their favourite liquor, and suffering in

consequence all the excruciating torments of thirst, run into violent

excesses the moment they get on shore. St. Jago is famous for a kind

of liquid fire, called aguadente, which is smuggled on board ship

in the shape of pumpkins and watermelons. These are sold to the

sailors for shirts and clothing; there being nothing so eagerly

sought for by the inhabitants of St. Jago as linen and calico.

Our crew, being thoroughly disgusted with their captain, as indeed

they had some reason to be, and their valour being wondrously excited

by their passionate fondness for water-melons, came to a stern

resolution of spending the remainder of their lives on this agreeable

island; at any rate, they determined to sail no farther in our

company. The captain was ashore, settling his accounts and receiving

his papers; the chief-mate had given orders to loose the fore-topsail

and weigh anchor; and we were all in the cuddy, quietly sipping our

wine, when we heard three cheers and a violent scuffling on deck. In

a few moments down rushed the mate in a state of delirious

excitement, vociferating that the men were in open mutiny, and

calling upon us, in the name of the Queen, to assist the officers of

the ship in bringing them to order. Starting up at the call of our

Sovereign, we rushed to our cabins in a state of nervous

bewilderment, and loading our pistols in a manner that ensured their

not going off, we valiantly hurried on deck in the rear of the

exasperated officer. On reaching the raised quarter-deck of the

vessel, we found the crew clustered together near the mainmast, armed

with hand-spikes, boat-oars, crow-bars, and a miscellaneous

assortment of other weapons, and listening to an harangue which the

carpenter was in the act of delivering to them. They were all

intoxicated; but the carpenter, a ferocious, determined villain, was

the least so.

At one of the quarter-deck gangways stood the captain's lady, a lean

and wizened Hecate, as famous for her love of rum as any of the crew,

but more openly rejoicing in the no less objectionable spirit of

ultra-methodism. Screaming at the top of her voice, whilst her

unshawled and dusky shoulders, as well as the soiled ribands of her

dirty cap, were gently fanned by the sea-breeze, she commanded the

men to return to their duty, in a volume of vociferation that seemed

perfectly inexhaustible. Fearing that the quarter-deck would be

carried by storm, we divided our party, consisting of the two mates,

three passengers with their servants, and Mungo the black servant,

into two divisions, each occupying one of the gang-ways.

In a few moments the carpenter ceased his oration; the men cheered

and danced about the deck, brandishing their weapons, and urging one

another to "come on." Then with a rush, or rather a stagger, they

assailed our position, hoping to carry it in an instant by storm.

The mate shouted to us to fire, and pick out three or four of the

most desperate; but perceiving the intoxicated state of the men we

refused to shed blood, except in the last extremity of self-defence;

and determined to maintain our post, if possible, by means of our

pistol-butts, or our fists alone. In the general melee which ensued,

the captain's lady, who fought in the van, and looked like a lean

Helen MacGregor, or the mythological Ate, was captured by the

assailants, and dragged to the deck below. Then it was that

combining our forces, and inspired with all the ardour which is

naturally excited by the appearance of beauty in distress, we made a

desperate sally, and after a fearful skirmish, succeeded in rescuing

the lady, and replacing her on the quarter-deck, with the loss only

of her cap and gown, and a few handfuls of hair.

After this exploit, both parties seemed inclined to pause and take

breath, and in the interval we made an harangue to the sailors,

expressive of our regret that they should act in so disgraceful a

manner.

The gallant (or rather ungallant) fellows replied that they were

determined to be no longer commanded by a she-captain, as they called

the lady, and therefore would sail no farther in such company.

I really believe that most of them had no serious intention whatever

in their proceedings, but the officers of the ship were firmly

convinced that the carpenter and one or two others had resolved to

get possession of the vessel, dispose of the passengers and mates

somehow or other, and then slip the cable, and wreck and sell the

ship and cargo on the coast of South America.

Whilst the truce lasted, the second mate had been busily engaged

making signals of distress, by repeatedly hoisting and lowering the

ensign reversed, from the mizen-peak. This was soon observed from

the deck of a small Portuguese schooner of war, which lay at anchor

about half a mile from us, having arrived a few hours previously,

bringing the Bishop of some-where-or-other on a visitation to the

island. The attention of the officer of the watch had been

previously attracted towards us by the noise we had made, and the

violent scuffle which he had been observing through his glass. No

sooner, therefore, was the flag reversed, than a boat was lowered

from the quarter-davits, filled with marines, and pulled towards our

vessel with the utmost rapidity. The mutineers, whose attention was

directed entirely to the quarter-deck, did not perceive this

manoeuvre, which, however, was evident enough to us, who exerted

ourselves to the utmost to prolong the parley until our allies should

arrive.

The carpenter now decided upon renewing the assault, having laid

aside his handspike and armed himself with an axe; but just at this

moment the man-of-war's boat ran alongside, and several files of

marines, with fixed bayonets, clambering on to the deck, effected a

speedy change in the aspect of affairs. Perceiving at once how

matters stood, the officer in command, without asking a single

question, ordered a charge against the astonished sailors, who, after

a short resistance, and a few violent blows given and received, were

captured and disarmed.

There was a boy among the party called Shiny Bill, some fifteen years

of age, who managed to escape to the fore-shrouds, and giving the

marine who pursued him a violent kick in the face, succeeded in

reaching the fore-top, where he coiled himself up like a ball. Two

or three marines, exasperated by the scuffle, and by several smart

raps on the head which they had received, hastened up the shrouds

after the fugitive, who, however, ascended to the fore-top-mast

cross-trees, whither his enemies, after some hesitation, pursued.

Finding this post also untenable, he proceeded to swarm up the

fore-top-gallant-mast shrouds, and at last seated himself on the

royal yard, where he calmly awaited the approach of the enemy.

These, however, feeling that the position was too strong to be

successfully assailed by marines, deliberately commenced their

retreat, and arrived on deck, whilst their officer was hailing the

immovable Bill in Portuguese, and swearing he would shoot him unless

he instantly descended.

Disdaining, however, to pay the least attention to these threats,

Shiny William continued to occupy his post with the greatest

tranquillity; and the officer, giving up the attempt in despair,

proceeded to inquire from us in Portuguese-French the history of this

outbreak. The scene concluded with the removal of the mutineers in

one of the ship's boats to the man-of-war, where, in a few moments,

several dozen lashes were administered to every man in detail, and

the whole party were then sent on shore, and committed to a dungeon

darker and dirtier than the worst among them had ever before been

acquainted with. But before all this was done, and when the boats

had pulled about a hundred yards from the vessel, Shiny Bill began to

descend from his post. He slipped down unobserved by any one, and

the first notice we had of his intentions was from perceiving him run

across the deck to the starboard bow, whence he threw himself,

without hesitation, into the sea, and began to swim lustily after his

captive friends. Our shouts -- for, remembering the abundance of

sharks, we were very much alarmed for the poor fellow -- attracted

the attention of the officer in the boat, to whom we pointed out the

figure of Bill, who seemed as eager now to make a voluntary

surrender, and share the fate of his comrades, as he had previously

been opposed to a violent seizure. The swimmer was soon picked up,

and, to our regret, received in due season the same number of stripes

as fell to the lot of his friends captured in battle.

The prisoners remained several days in their dungeon, where they were

hospitably regaled with bread and water by the Portuguese Government;

and at the end of this period (so unworthy did they prove of the

handsome treatment they received) the British spirit was humbled

within them, and they entreated with tears to be allowed to return to

their duty. The mates, however, refused to sail in the same vessel

with the carpenter, and it was accordingly settled that he should

remain in custody until the arrival of a British man-of-war, and then

be returned to his country, passage free.

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