MEMENTO MORI
"I will keep it,
As they keep deaths' heads in rings,
To cry _memento_ to me."
The study of the various forms of personal ornament by means of which
the memory of the dead or of death itself has been preserved by the
living is one which offers a wide field for investigation. The Egyptians
enforced the precept "_Memento Mori_" by introducing at their banquets
a small coffin containing the image of a corpse which, according to
Herodotus, was shown to each guest. In classical times skeletons were
rarely represented, though one is sculptured on a tomb at Pompeii.
The warning "_Memento Mori_" manifested itself in divers fashions in the
Middle Ages, the most conspicuous being the famous "Dance of Death,"
which made its début in the fourteenth century, and was figured by
Holbein in the sixteenth. Testimony of the desire of all to keep the
warning constantly before the mind is borne by personal ornaments of
various kinds displaying emblems of mortality. In order to arrive at the
meaning of these crude emblems so often applied to objects of jewellery,
regard should be paid to the feelings of the times that gave them birth.
During the latter period of the Middle Ages the grim and ascetic
contemplation of death caused the artists of that period to represent it
as the devil, the father of sin, horned and cloven-hoofed, carrying off
the sinful souls and forcing them into the mouth of hell. But when
during the fifteenth century "printing excited men's imaginations, when
the first discovery of the ancient classics roused their emulation and
stimulated their unrest, when the Renaissance in art increased their
eagerness to express their thoughts and multiplied their method of
expression,"[193] and their conscience was turned to the latter end and
the unseen world, then at length did death appear, no longer as the
father of sin, but altered into a familiar and human personification.
[193] Cook (T. A.), _The history of Rouen_, p. 293.
Side by side with the strange vigour and extraordinary joy in life that
marked the period, there existed a great contempt for the value of life
and a gross familiarity with death. It was Death himself, according to
the imagination of the sixteenth century, who, always at hand, clutched
men of every age and condition by the sleeve and hurried them all
unwillingly away.
The emblems of death were always presented in close touch with the
living. The forms they took--the skeleton, or simply the skull, or
Death's head, with cross-bones--were rendered in the sixteenth century
by both painter and sculptor; but it was reserved for the goldsmith--the
sculptor and painter in one--to represent them on jewellery through the
medium of the precious metals enriched with gems and coloured enamels.
They figured on every kind of ornament. Brooches with enamelled skulls
were fastened as enseignes upon the hat; golden jewels like funereal
objects in shape of coffins holding enamelled skeletons hung from the
neck; rosary beads, pomanders and watches in the form of human skulls
were attached to the waist; and rings bearing Death's heads and other
emblems were worn upon the fingers.
A great impetus was given to the use of such articles of adornment by
Diana of Poitiers when she became mistress of Henry II of France. She
was then a widow in mourning; and the complaisant Court not only adopted
her black and white as the fashionable colour, but covered their
personal ornaments with emblems of death.
Jewels of this description, it is clear, were not necessarily carried in
remembrance of any special individual. With their legend "Memento Mori"
they were simply reminders of Death in the abstract. As such they
characterised exactly the temper of the time, and were quite commonly
worn by the upper and middle classes, especially by those who affected
a respectable gravity. At the time of which we now speak the personal
badge or _devise_, an obscure expression of some particular conceit of
its wearer, was at the height of fashion. In its elaboration the various
emblems of death were largely put under contribution, their choice for
the purpose being the outcome of the special disposition of those who
adopted them. Perhaps the most notable instance of the representation
of a badge of this kind is in Holbein's famous "Ambassadors," in the
National Gallery. Here Jean de Dinteville, who stands on the left of the
picture, wears a circular jewel formed of a white enamelled skull in a
gold mount, pinned as an enseigne to the lower rim of his small black
bonnet.
Amongst sundry ornaments bearing mortuary devices, there is a good
example at South Kensington--a _Memento Mori_ charm of enamelled gold in
the form of a coffin containing a minutely articulated skeleton. It is
English work of the Elizabethan period, and was found at Tor Abbey,
Devonshire (Pl. XLIV, 16).
No article of decoration has been more extensively used as a "Memento
Mori" or for memorial purposes than the finger ring. The association of
the ring is largely with affairs of the heart, and lovers are united
with it. And since the form itself is emblematic of eternity, so by
this same token of affection has the memory of departed friends been
kept green.
The sepulchral emblems referred to were not made use of for mediæval
ornaments. But in the sixteenth century they were very frequent,
especially on rings. One of the most remarkable specimens of the
wonderful mastery over technical difficulties which stamps the
goldsmith's work of this time is a "Memento Mori" ring of German work
in the Waddesdon Bequest. Its bezel or top is in the form of a book,
decorated at each corner with a diamond, emerald, sapphire, and ruby,
with snakes and toads between them. In the centre is a death's head. The
lid on opening discloses a recumbent figure with skull and hour-glass.
On the shoulders of the ring, supporting the bezel, are figures of Adam
and Eve representing The Fall and Expulsion from Eden. All the figures
are enamelled in high relief, and though merely a fraction of an inch in
size, are executed with extraordinary fidelity. A ring described as
having belonged to Mary Stuart is in the possession of the Earl of
Ilchester. Its bezel, composed of a large ruby cut in the form of a
death's head and set with diamond eyes, is supported underneath by
cross-bones in enamel. Woeiriot's beautiful collection of designs for
rings, of the year 1561, contains a ring of this kind surmounted with a
skull and cross-bones; and Gilles Légaré's _Recueil_ of a century later
has an engraving of similar pattern (Pl. XL).
English rings of the sixteenth century have a death's head carved in
intaglio on carnelian, or sunk in the metal of the ring and sometimes
filled with enamel. Around is the motto "Memento Mori," and similar
expressions in Latin or in English (Pl. XXXVI, 12). A certain Agnes Hals
whose will is dated 1554 bequeathed to her niece "my rynge of gold with
the wepinge eie," and to her son "my rynge with the dead manes head."
From the commencement of the seventeenth century Memento Mori rings
begin to be worn also as memorials of the departed, and bequests of
money were frequently made for their purchase. The decoration of many of
the rings of this period is very curious. On some the death's head in
its natural shape is beautifully formed in enamel, has small diamond
eyes, and is supported on each side by skeletons bent along the hoop of
the ring. The bezel of others is of crystal in the shape of a coffin,
the lid of which on being removed discloses a skeleton. Widows on the
death of their husbands sometimes converted their wedding rings into
memorial rings. This was done by engraving outside an elongated
skeleton, the bones of which were brought into prominence by a
background of black enamel.
Inside the memorial rings of the time was often a motto or posy,
appropriate for the purpose, sometimes rhyming:--
Prepared be
To follow me;
or
I restless live, yet hope to see
That day of Christ, and then see thee.
Rings of this kind, commonly known as mourning rings, were frequently
given, together with gloves and hat-bands, to those who attended at
funerals. They were inscribed, in addition to a posy, with the initials
of the deceased and the date. Evelyn at his son's funeral in 1658
distributed a number of rings with the motto "Dominus abstulit." At
Pepys' funeral upwards of a hundred and thirty rings were given to
friends and relatives.
Mention must be made, amongst other memorial jewellery, of the various
objects worn in memory of Charles I. Most of these are finger rings
containing a portrait of the ill-fated monarch, which were made and
worn by Royalists after his execution. Some are so contrived that the
portrait can only be discovered by opening a lid formed of a table
diamond. They were doubtless used by those for whom devotion of the
kind was dangerous. Other jewels worn in memory of the Royal Martyr were
heart-shaped lockets, inscribed and decorated in a suitably funereal
manner with skulls, cross-bones, and like emblems.
An important group of ornaments, dating from the time of Charles II to
that of Queen Anne, are those in the form of small memorial brooches,
lockets, bracelet clasps, buttons, and slides with loops at the back for
attachment to a velvet band. They are of considerable interest in that
they represent almost the only surviving examples of English jewellery
of the time. The Franks Bequest in the British Museum contains several
specimens. They usually have letters in a fine filigree of gold entwined
in a monogram, laid on a ground of crimson silk, and covered with a
thick crystal set in gold. The gold filigree, which is of extraordinary
delicacy, is often laid on braids of hair arranged in various designs,
and accompanied by the skull and cross-bones. The crystal covering is
sometimes cut in table form, but is more often rose-cut. The locket
surrounded with pearls shown on Plate XLIV has on its surface no less
than a hundred facets.
Memorial rings of the same period have bezels with similar designs
beneath a rose diamond or faceted crystal. Their hoops are mostly
enamelled black on the shoulders. In the second quarter of the
eighteenth century the mortuary emblems of skull and cross-bones in
general disappear. The hoop of the ring is shaped in the form of a
scroll or ribbon, and set with a small diamond, a coloured stone, or
usually a white crystal. Around the hoop is inscribed in enamel the
name and age of the deceased, and date of death. Black enamel was
used for those who had been married; while white was employed for the
unmarried--just as it was the practice at the funeral of an unmarried
man or woman for the mourners and attendants to be clothed in white.
Mourning jewellery was extremely popular in England towards the end of
the eighteenth and in the early part of the nineteenth century. The
variety of design in objects of the kind then in use, and the ingenuity
displayed in their production, may well be judged from a collection
numbering upwards of one hundred and fifty specimens in the Victoria and
Albert Museum.
Some mementoes of the deceased are simply miniature portraits, as well
as cameos and silhouettes, the miniature sometimes taking the form of
a single eye set round with pearls or diamonds. But in most cases it
appears to have been the custom to wear in lockets, brooches, and rings
microscopic devices--works of infinite patience and skill--wrought in
hair, with initials and other designs cunningly worked in seed pearls.
There were also, sometimes, paintings in _grisaille_ (Pl. XLVII, 2, 3).
These often represented a lady in mourning garb weeping over a funeral
urn, in the style of the ornament worn by Mr. Wemmick, the attorney's
clerk in _Great Expectations_, of whom Dickens gives the following
inimitable description: "I judged him to be a bachelor from the frayed
condition of his linen, and he appeared to have sustained a good many
bereavements; for he wore at least four mourning rings, besides a brooch
representing a lady and a weeping willow at a tomb with an urn on it. I
noticed, too, that several rings and seals hung at his watch chain, as
if he were quite laden with remembrances of departed friends." Further
on Mr. Wemmick himself describes his personal jewellery, and concludes
by remarking: "I always take 'em. They're curiosities. And they're
property. They may not be worth much, but, after all, they're property
and portable.... My guiding-star always is, Get hold of portable
property."
The painted brooches backed with hair and set round with pearls form,
as a matter of fact, very pretty jewels, in spite of the sombreness of
their subject and the trivial sentimentality of their mottoes, which run
in this vein: "Whose hair I wear--I loved most dear."
Mourning jewellery was usually set with pearls, garnets, or more often
jet. The last, until a short while ago, was in universal favour, and was
fashioned into all sorts of ornaments. It fortunately now meets with but
little demand. The same applies to hair jewellery, of human hair woven
in many intricate plaitings into brooches, rings, bracelets, and chains.
The brooches of about the "forties" have a broad border inscribed with
the word "Memory," etc., in Gothic letters on black enamel, and in the
centre a panel of plaited hair. The custom of wearing ornaments composed
of such sombre and unpleasing material has now to all intents and
purposes ceased, though it is carried on to a certain extent in France,
where _ouvrages en cheveux_ in the form of bracelets and lockets are
still worn as _précieux souvenirs de famille_.
After the middle of the nineteenth century the use of mourning rings and
other memorial jewellery began to die out. The goddess Fashion, who
throughout all ages has waged war on the productions of the goldsmith,
has laid a heavier hand on these than on any other forms of personal
ornament--a circumstance which accounts for the survival at the present
day of a comparatively small proportion of the enormous quantity of
objects of this description that must formerly have been produced.
Most families from time to time have consigned to the melting-pot
accumulations of these memorials of their predecessors; and those who
have been long in the jeweller's business confess to the hundreds of
such relics that they have broken up. It is to be hoped that the
present-day revival may lead to the preservation of what remain of
these quaint mementoes of our frail mortality.
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INDEX
[.A][=a]h-[h.]etep, 3, 5
À Becket, Thomas. _See_ Thomas à Becket
Aberford (Yorks), 72
Abingdon brooch, 60
Acorn-shaped pendants, Phoenician, 10
Acorn-shaped pendants, worn by Henry VIII, 206
Acton, John, 302, 304
_Acus_, xli, xlii, 60, 127
Adalbert of Saxony, 137
Adams (potter), 315
Adriatic, 83
" jewellery, 246, 347
Ægean, 12
Ægides, 6
_Aetites_, 122
Aglets, 268-9
_Agnus Dei_, 72, 122
Agnolo, Luca, 185
_Agrafes_, 140
Aigrettes, Hungarian, 198
" jewelled, 230, 231
" " sockets for, 230
" 17 cent., 230, 231, 281, 290, 291, 303
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 316, 317
_Aigulets_, 268
Aix-la-Chapelle, Treasury, 118, 139
Albacete, 9
Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 194
" VI, Duke of Bavaria, 248
Albini, D. M., 309
Alciatus, A., 223
Aldegrever, H., 185, 193, 194, 250, 259
_Alençon, Pierre d'_, 343, 357
Alexandria, 93
Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, 158
" II, Duke of Ferrara, 292
Alfred the Great, 68, 69, 71
" Jewel, 68, 69
Algeria, Celtic brooch in, 76
Algerian women, head-ornaments of, 9
Alhstan, Bishop of Sherborne, 71
Alicante, 9
Allori, Alessandro, 350
Altdorfer, A., 189
Altoetting (Bavaria), 88
Amadas, Robert, 208
Ambassadors, jewellery given to, Eng., 17 cent., 306
Amber in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
" in ancient Irish jewellery, 42
" in German peasant jewellery, 346
" in early Italian jewellery, 24
" in prehistoric jewellery, 39
" in Roman jewellery, 30
" in Romano-British jewellery, 45
Ambergris, 125 n.
Amboise, Cardinal d', 199
Amethystine quartz, beads of, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
Amethysts, 19 cent., 328, 329
Amman, Jost, 270
_Amourette_, 146
Amphoræ, 8, 10
Amphora-shaped ornaments, Greek, 16
Amsterdam, Charles I's jewellery sent over to, 305
Amulets, Egyptian, 2
" Etruscan, 25
" medl., 103, 122, 132
" in medl. rings, 151
" Roman, 29, 32
" Romano-British, 47
_Ananizapta_, 152
Androuet Ducerceau, J., 201, 219, 241, 246, 265, 269
Angell, John, 208
Angles, 56
Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 51, 56-74
Ankles, rings for, 6
Ann Boleyn, Q. of England, 212
Anne of Austria, wife of Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 195
" of Bohemia, Q. of England, 141
" of Denmark, Q. of England, 268, 301
Annunciation, on medl. morses, 139
" on Renaiss. pendants, 244-5
Anselm, 92
Anthony, Dericke, 220
Antioch, sack of, 33
Antonio di Girolamo, 175
Antwerp, corporation of goldsmiths, 155
" engravers of designs for jewellery, 196
" Hans of. _See_ Hans.
" Museum, 227 n.
" port of, 16 cent., 167
_Annulus vertuosus_, 147
Aphrodite, 28
Arabella Stuart, 299
Arabs in Spain and Sicily, 84
Ardagh chalice, 66
Ark on Elizabethan jewellery, 255, 256
Armada jewels, 217, 255
Armagnacs, badge of, 110
Armento, 16
_Armillæ_, ancient British, 41
" Roman, 30
Armlet, Hunsdon, 218
Armlets, xliv
" ancient Irish, 42
" medl., 157-8
" Roman, 30
" Romano-British, 47
Arphe, Juan de, 202
Arrow heads, prehistoric, as charms, in Etruscan jewellery, 25
" " " medl. jewellery, 122
_Art Nouveau_, 337, 338
Arundel, Eleanor, Countess of, 113
Ashbee, C. R., 339
Ashmole, Elias, 238
Ashmolean Museum. _See_ Oxford
Asia Minor, 8, 14
Assyria, 7, 8
Assyrian art, 12
Athelney, Isle of, 68
Athene, 16
Athens, National Museum, 11
Attavante, M., 175
Augsburg, goldsmiths, 192
" jewellery made at, 202, 203, 205
" in 16 cent., 180, 189, 198, 210
Augustine, St., 65, 66
Augustus, Emperor, cameo of, 103
" II, Elector of Saxony, 310, 311
_Aulmonière_, 165
Autun, Gallo-Roman enamelled jewellery found at, 46
Auvergne, peasant jewellery, 342-3
Babelon, E. C. F, 266
Bacchus, 24
Backwell, Edward, 305
Bacon, Sir F., 100
Bactria, 51
Baden, Margraves of, 250, 261
Badges, 116, 365
" for hats, medl., 107-12
" English, 16-17 cent., 257
" pendent, medl. 110
" " Spanish, 17 cent., 204
Bags, at girdles, Anglo-Saxon, 63
_Bague_, 258
_Bagues à trois grains_, 73
Bain, P., 282
Baldrick, 93, 164
Baldung, Hans. _See_ Grien
Baldwin, K. of Jerusalem, 119
Baltic, amber from, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58
Balzac, H. de, 331
_Bandeau_, French, 19 cent., 329
" Italian, 15 cent., 107
Bannatyne Club, 220
Bapst, G., 335
Barbarian tribes, migrations of, 49
Barbaric jewellery of Europe, 49-55
Barbor jewel, 218, 254
" William, 254
Barcelona, goldsmiths of, 202, 204
Barclay, A., 236
Baroncelli, Pierantonio, Maria, wife of, 114, 286
Barnfield, R., 265
Barrows, or graves, Anglo-Saxon, 57
Bars of girdles, medl., 162 n.
Basalt, 5
Basil, xlv
Basil the Macedonian, Emperor, 34
Basle, Historical Museum, 192
_Basse-taille_ enamel. _See_ Enamel
Bast, 6
Batrachites, 151
Battersea enamel, 320
Bauer, Hermann, 339
Baumann, D., 309
Bavaria, Dukes of, 194, 248
Bavarian National Museum. _See_ Munich
_Baudrier_, 164
Beaded work, 19 cent., 327
Beads, Anglo-Saxon, 58
" or balls of gold, on Anglo-Saxon rings, 73
" ancient British, 40
" " Irish, 42
" Egyptian, 4-6
" filigree, for perfumes, 265
" glass, Romano-British, 45
" jet, Romano-British, 47
" Phoenician, 10
" Roman, 29
" rosary, 124-5
Beatrice D'Este, Duchess of Milan, 172
_Beams_, of gypcières, 165
Beaumont and Fletcher (quoted), 265
Bede, The Venerable, 67
Bees, gold, jewelled, 53
Belgium, peasant jewellery, 345-6
Belisarius, 33
Bells, hung from medl. girdles, 164
" " Renaiss. pendants, 250
Belts, xlv, xlvi
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 159-65
" " resemblence to fillets, 105
" military, medl., 163-4
Bentzen, J., 284
Berengaria, of Navarre, Q. of England, xliii, 128
Beresford-Hope cross, 36
Berghem, Louis de, 209, 277
Berkeley Castle, 73, 218, 253, 265, 266
" Elizabeth, Lady, dau. of Lord Hunsdon, 218
" family, 274
" heirlooms, 218
" Thomas, Lord, 116
Berlin, Crown Treasury, 251
" iron jewellery made in, 330
" Museums, 3, 9, 139
" " pictures in, 90, 106, 168, 261
Bernal, Ralph, 133
Berne, 210
" Museum, 64
Bernhard III, Margrave of Baden, 261
Bettystown, Co. Louth, 78
_Betnüsse_, 125
Beuvray, Mont, near Autun, 46
Bezel, xlv
Bezoar stone, 122
Bibracte, 46 n.
_Bijouterie_, 277
"Billy and Charley," 360
Bilston enamel, 320
Bindesböll, T., 339
Birckenhultz, P., 231, 234, 281
Birds on Teutonic jewellery, 57, 58
" " Renaiss. pendants, 249
Birmingham, steelwork, 315, 319
_Bisamapfel_, 275 n.
Black Sea, 14
Blondus. _See_ Le Blon.
Boccardi, Giovanni di Guiliano, 175
Bodkins (hair-pins), Renaiss., 232, 233
Bodleian Library. _See_ Oxford.
Boehmer, 318
Boethius, 100
"Boglars," 198
Bohemia, medl. pendants, 121
" Renaiss. jewellery, 188
_Boîte à portrait_, 320
Bollin, M., 339
Bologna, Church of S. Maria della Misericordia, 170
" Picture Gallery, 170
Bömmel, W. H., 309
Bonny, Louis, 338
Books, pendent to girdle, 272-4
Bordier, P., 304
Bordone, Paris, 263
Borghese, Marie Pauline, Princess, 329
Borgia, Cæsar, 100
Bossange, 318
Bossington (near Stockbridge), 73
Bosworth Jewel, 219
Bothwell, Earl of, 221
Botticelli, Sandro, 169
Boucheron, Messrs., 340
Boulton and Watt, 315
Bourchier, Lord, 110
Bouquet, D., 297
Bouquets, jewelled, 17 cent., 281, 290
" " on the breast, 18 cent., 318
_Bouquets d'orfévrerie_, 295
Bourdon, Pierre, 309
Bourguet, Jean, 309, 320
Bow, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 204, 294
" " " " 18 cent., 308, 318
Bow-shaped brooches, Romano-British, 46
Bowles, Thomas, 310
Boyvin, René, 201, 265
Bracelets, xliv
" Byzantine, 37
" clasps, memorial, English, 17-18 cent., 368
" Egyptian, 6
" Etruscan, 25
" Greek, 10
" hair, 19 cent., 331
" ancient Irish, 42
" medl., 157-8
" Renaiss., 264-7
" " designs for, 265, 269
" Roman, 30
" Romano-British, 47
" 17 cent., 294
" 18 cent., 309, 313, 319, 320
" 19 cent., 329
_Brachiale_, 30
_Bracteæ_, Greek, 19
Bracteate coins, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
Bracteates, gold, 13
Brandenburg, Fred. William, Elector of, 238
Brantôme, 181, 200
"Bravery," 299
Braybrooke collection of rings, 264
Brazil diamonds, 351
Breast ornaments, medl., 135, etc.
" 17 cent., 204, 294
" 18 cent., 308, 318
Bremen, Kunsthalle, 190
"Brethren," "The Three." _See_ "Brothers"
Briceau, 309
_Briolettes_, 291, 317, 343
Bristol diamond, 259, 357
Britain, invasion of, by Teutonic races, 56
" Roman occupation of, 44
British Isles, prehistoric jewellery, 39
British Museum. _See_ London
Britons, 39
_Broche_, 127
Broighter, near Limavady, 43
Bromsgrove Church, 154
Bronze Age, 39
" ornaments, British, 39, 41, 45
Bronzino, Angelo, 233
Brooches, xl-xliv
" Anglo-Saxon, xlii, xliii, 50, 59-62, 70
" Byzantine, 36, 37, 70
" Celtic, xlii-xliv, 74-9, 131
" circular, xlii, xliv
" cruciform, xlii, 61
" disc-shaped, xlii, xliii
" Flemish-Burgundian, 15 cent., 143-6
" Greek, 18, 19
" hair, 19 cent., 331
" hat, 108. _See also_ Enseignes
" by Holbein, 212
" Italian, 15 cent., 174
" Luckenbooth, 133-4, 165
" medl., 121, 127, 144
" " English, 93, 94
" " inscriptions on, 128-30
" " pectorals, 135-46
" memorial, English, 17-18 cent., 368
" penannular, xlii, xliii, 74-9
" radiated, 63
" Renaiss., 267
" ring-brooch, xlii, xliv, xlv, 62, 127-34
" Romano-British, 45-7
" safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41
" Scandinavian, 62
" Scottish, 131-4
" on sleeves, 267
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 309, 312
" _See also_ Fibulæ
Brosamer, Hans, 193, 198, 205, 250
"Brothers," "The Three Brothers," 209, 210, 300
Brueghel, Jan, 287
Bruges, 89, 114, 277
" goldsmith's shop in, 15 cent., 155
" port of, 15 cent., 167
Brunswick, Dorothea, Elizabeth, and Hedwig, Princesses of, 245
Brussels, Musée du Cinquantenaire, 106, 271
" Alexander of, 208
Bruyn, Abraham de. _See_ De Bruyn
" Bartholomäus, 189
Bry, Theodor de, 195, 196, 219
Brythons, 39
Bucharest, Museum of Antiquities, 52
Buckingham, George Villiers, Duke of, 210, 230, 235, 300
Buckle, xlv, xlvi
" design for, by Aldegrever, 194
" " " " de Bry, 196
" " " " Dürer, 191
" -plate, xlvi, 159, 160
Buckles, Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 159-60
" pinchbeck, 316
" shoe, 18 cent., 321
" steel, 315
" stock, 18 cent., 322
" Teutonic, 64
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 310, 312, 322
Buda-Pesth, National Museum, 112, 157, 198
Bugles, 10, 319
Bull, H. de. _See_ De Bull
_Bullæ_, Etruscan, 24, 25
" Roman, 29
Bulliot, J. G., 46 n.
Buonaparte, Caroline, Q. of Naples, 329
Burgh, Hebert de, 151
Burgkmair, H., 189
Burgundian Court, luxury of, 88-90
Burgundians (Gothic tribe), 50
Burgundy, Dukes of, 88-9, 114, 143
Bussy d'Amboise, 123 n.
"Butterflies," 316
Buttons, jet, Romano-British, 47
" memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368
" Renaiss., 267-8
" steel, 315
" 18 cent., 319, 320
Byron, Lord, 331
Byzantine, cloisonné enamel, 66
" influence on medl. jewellery, 83-5, 157
" jewellery, 33-8
Byzantium, 33
C., A., 284
Cabalistic inscriptions on medl. rings, 152
Cabochon stones, 88, 96, 97
Cadboll brooches, 77
Cære, 25
Caillard, J., 282
_Caillou d' Alençon_, 343
" _du Rhin_, 357
Cairngorms, 133
Cairo, Museum, 3, 5
Callot, J., 282
Cambridge, Fitzwilliam Museum, 225
" King's College, 115
Camden, W., 94
Cameos, antique, in medl. jewellery, 138
" in bracelets, Renaiss., 264, 266
" in bracelets, 18 cent., 320
" Elizabethan, 217-18
" medl. use of antique, 101-4
" in mourning jewellery, 369
" Renaiss., 226
" " enseignes, 227-8
" " pendants, 245-6
" Roman, 30
" 19 cent., 326-31
Campbells of Glenlyon, 132
Canning, Lord, 249
Canosa, 70
Canterbury Cathedral, 108 n., 109
" " Chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, 140
_Canterbury Tales_, 161, etc.
Cappello, Bianca, 233, 350
_Caracts_, 132
Caract rings, 152
Caradosso, 168, 227
Caravel, or carvel, 246
Carberry Hill, 221
_Carcan_, 317
_Carcanets_, 114
" Renaiss., 239
Carlyle, T., 318
Carmichael, Sir T. D. Gibson, 224
Caroto, G., 172
Carrand Collection. _See_ Florence, Museo Nazionale
Carteron, S., 205
Cassel Gallery, 296
_Cassolette_, 275 n.
Castellani, 22, 346, 359
" Alessandro, 333, 334
" Augusto, 333, 334
" Fortunato Pio, 333, 334
" brooch, 70
Cast-iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330-1
Catherine Parr, Q. of England, 252
Caucasus, 50
Cavalcant, John, 208
_Ceinture_, 105, 159
" _ferrée_, 161
_Ceinturier_, 270
Cellini, B., 21, 22, 169, 171, 179, 183-6, 192, 196, 197, 199, 201,
202, 208, 222, 227, 228, 241, 273, 278, 351
Celtic brooch, 74, 75-9, 131
" jewellery, 11, 39
" Period (late), 39, 43
Celts, 40
_Cercles_, 93, 105
"Cerro de los Santos," 9
Cervetri, 25
Cesarini, Gabriele, 228
Chains, ancient Irish, 43
" Egyptian, 5
" Phoenician, 9
" neck, 19 cent., 331
Chains, worn round the neck. _See also_ Necklaces and Neck-chains
Chalke, Agnes, 106
Chamberlain, John, 299
Chamillart, Mdme de, 314, 320
_Chansons_, 152
Chantilly, 168, 185
Chape of girdle, xlvi, 160, 271
_Chapeau montabyn (montauban)_, 224, 231
_Chapelet_, 125
_Chapeletz_, 93, 105
_Chaperon_, 156, 229
Chaplets, medl., 105
Chardin, Sir John, 278, 305
Charity, figure of, on Renaiss. pendants, 244
Charlemagne, 55, 65, 83, 84, 118
Charles I, K. of England, 210, 219, 230, 288, 300, 304, 305, 354
" I, K. of England, earrings of, 235, 354
" I, K. of England, memorial jewellery of, 367
" II, K. of England, 292, 305
" V, K. of France, 88, 199
" " " cameo of, 103, 130
" VIII, K. of France, 199
" IX " " 199, 200
" the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, 107, 209, 231
" the Great, Emperor of the West. _See_ Charlemagne
Charlotte, Q. of England, 313, 317
Charms, 99-104, 111-120
Chartres, Treasury of, 103
Châteaubriand, Countess of, 181
Chatelaines, xlvii
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 161
" pinchbeck, 316
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 310, 312, 313, 322, 323
_Chaton_, xlv
Chaucer, 93, 94, 109, 129, 130 n., 164
Chelsea, ring found at, 73
Chepstow, Monmouthshire, 46
Chéron, 314
Chiflet, J. J., 53
Child, Sir Francis, 305, 306
Child's Bank, 306
Childeric I, K. of the Franks, 51, 52, 53
" " ring of, 63
Chlotaire II, K. of the Franks, 59
Christian V, K. of Denmark, 238
Christianity, introduction of, change in jewellery owing to, 65, 66
" introduction of into Ireland, 75
Christie's Auction Rooms, 247, 256
Christina, Q. of Sweden, 284
Christopher, St., 142
Christus, Petrus, 155, 222, 263
Ciampoli, Carlo, 309, 317
_Cingulum_, 163
Circlets, xxxix
" medl., 106
Clanricarde, Marquess of, 249
Clarendon brooch, 78
Clasps, xl
" of girdle, xlv, xlvii
" " medl., 160, 163
" of mantle, medl., 140, 141
" 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 310, 312
Clifford, Lord, 354
Cloth of Gold, Field of, 207, 237
Cloisonné enamel. _See_ Enamel
" inlay, 3, 35, 50, 56
Coats-of-arms on rings, 31, 153
Cobra snake, 2
Coello, A. S., 294
Coiffure, Phoenician, 9
" _See also_ Head-ornaments
Coins in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
" in Byzantine jewellery, 36
" in Roman jewellery, 30, 32
Colbert, J. B., 282
Collar, gold, ancient Irish, 43
" of Order of Golden Fleece, 90
" of Lord Mayor of London, 117
" SS collar, 116-17
Collars, Egyptian, 5
" medl., 113-117
" _See also_ Necklaces
Collaert, H., 194, 196, 197, 234, 247
_Collet_, xlv
_Collier_ of Marie Antoinette, 318
Cologne Cathedral, 111, 145
Cologne, Episcopal museum, 145
" Wallraf-Richartz museum, 145
Columban, 66
Combs, Empire, 19 cent., 328
" jewelled, medl., 107
" 19 cent., 329
Comines, Philip de, 109, 110
Commonwealth, England, 305
Compostella, 109
" shrine of St. James, 91
Conques, 102, 137
" Treasury, 112, 137
Consolavera, J. B. de, 208
Constantine, 33, 226
Constantinople, 33, 34, 49
" foundation of, 33
" sack of, 38
Coral, in Dutch peasant jewellery, 345
" medl. use of, 123
" 19 cent., 328
Corbeil, Our Lady of, 137
Corbizi, Litti di Filippo, 175
Cornaro, Catarina, 264
_Cornette_, 107
Cornish diamonds, 357
Coronals, Italy, 15 cent., 169
" medl., 106
" round hat, 224
Coronets, 106 n.
" medl., 106
" 19 cent., 328
Corsage, jewelled, 308
_Cosse de pois_ ornament, 281, 293, 297
Costantini, G. B., 284
_Côtehardi_, 267
_Coulant_, 342, 345
Counterfeit, 355
" stones sold to Henry VIII, 208
_Courroye_, 270
Coventry, St. Mary's Hall, 115
" ring, 150
Cramp, rings worn against, 152
Cranach, Lucas, 189, 238, 250, 259, 261, 264
Crapaudine, 151
Crete, 8
Crimea, 9, 12, 14, 50
Crivelli, Carlo, 167
" Lucrezia, 172
Cromwell, Oliver, 293, 294, 305
" Thomas, 208, 213
Crosby, Sir John, 115
Cross, pendent, Byzantine, 36
" " medl., 118
" " peasant, 342
" " Renaiss., 242-3
" the True, relics of, 118
" Visigothic (Guarrazar), 54
_Crotalia_, 28
Crown, Alfred Jewel, as ornament of a, 69
" of Thorns, relic of, 118, 119
Crowns, xxxix, 106
" Byzantine, 35
" Greek, 17
" Mycenæan, 11
" Scandinavian peasant, 346
" Visigothic, 53, 54
Croy, Celtic brooch from, 77
Crusaders, 34
Crusades, influence on jewellery, 101
" jewellery brought back from, 84, 93
Cryspyn, John, 208
Crystal, 313, 342, 343, 347, 356, 357
" of Lothair, 139
_Cuir bouilli_, 97
Cunynghame, H. H., 35, 86, 339
Cupreous glaze, 2
Cuthbert, St., 68
Cyprus, 8, 10, 12, 21
D., A., 285
Dagobert, K. of the Franks, 155, 222
Dalton, O. M., 34 n, 51 n.
Dance of Death, 363
Danes, invasion of, 68
Danube, Irish missionaries on, 67
" valley, enamel-work, 198
Dark Ages, 51
Darnley, Henry, 217
" jewel, 217, 257
Dartrey, Earl of, 288
Dashûr, 5
Dauffe, 319
Dauphin, badge of, 110
Davenport, C. J. H. (quoted), 71
David, Gerard, 140, 155, 263
" J. L., 326, 329
Davies, G. S. (quoted), 351, 352
Davillier, Baron C., 202, 249
Davy, William, 208
Dawson, Nelson, 339
Death's head, 364-7
De Boot, A., 100
Debruge-Duménil collection, 130, 245
De Bruyn, Abraham, 197
De Bull, H., 284
Defontaine, J., 282
De Heem, Jan, 287
De Heere, Lucas, 252, 352
De la Quewellerie. _See_ La Quewellerie
Delaune, Etienne, 197, 201, 272
De Leeuw, John, 155
_Demi-ceint_, or _demysent_, 164
Desborough (Northants), 74
_Devant de corsage_, 318
Devices, 223
" on Elizabethan jewellery, 216-7
" Renaiss., sewn to garments, 268
_Devise_, 223, 365
_Dextrocherium_, 30
Diadems, xxxix
" Byzantine, 34
" Egyptian, 3
" Etruscan, 23
" Greek, 16, 17
" medl., 106
" " English, 93
" Phoenician, 9
" Roman, 28
" 19 cent., 328
_Diamant d' Alençon_, 343
Diamond, 276-9
" of Charles the Bold, 209
" earrings of Marie Antoinette, 317
" necklace of Marie Antoinette, 318
Diamonds, the brilliant, 279
" Bristol, 235, 259 and n.
" cutting of, 230, 277-9
" false, 235, 313, 314, 357
" in pictures, 351
" the "point," 277, 278
" pointed, in rings, 260
" in Renaiss. jewellery, 179
" in rings, 17 cent., 296
" rose cut, 282, 310
" " in Flemish peasant jewellery, 345
" "roses," 278-9
" "table," 278-9
" _taille en seize_, 279
" use of, in early jewellery, 277
" in 18 cent. jewellery, 308, 319
Dickens, Charles (quoted), 369
Dietrich, 339
_Dinanderie_, 112 n.
Dinglinger, George Friedrich, 310
" Johann Melchior, 310
" " " (junior), 311
Dinteville, Jean de, 365
Dionysius of Halicarnassus, 20
Dionysos, 24
Diptychs, pendent, medl., 119-20
Directory, 325-6
Discs of gold. _See_ Plates of gold
Dog (Talbot), on Renaiss. pendants, 249
"Dombild," 145
Dorchester House. _See_ London
Douce, Francis, 53, 264
Douglas, Lady Margaret, 217
Douffet, Gerard, 296
Dove, symbol of Holy Ghost, 249
" in peasant jewellery, 343
Dowgate Hill brooch, 69
Dragon, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249
Drake, Sir Francis, 253, 266, 354
" Sir F. Fuller-Eliott, 218, 230 n., 253
" jewels, 218, 230 n., 353
Drawings for jewellery by Barcelona goldsmiths, 202
Drawings for jewellery by Sir F. Child, 306
" " by Dürer, 190
" " by Holbein, 210-213
" " by Lulls, 302
" " by Mielich, 195
" " by the Santini family, 308
Drury Fortnum. _See_ Fortnum
Dresden, Picture Gallery, 261
" Grüne Gewölbe, 251, 311
Dress, ornaments sewn on, ancient Irish, 43
" " " Renaiss., 268
Dress-fasteners, prehistoric, xliii
" " ancient British, 41
Dressche, Reinecke van, 139
Du Barry, Madame, 317
Du Bellay, G., 207
Dublin, Irish National Museum, 42, 44, 77, 78
" National Gallery of Ireland, 250
" Royal Irish Academy, 42, 78
" Trinity College, 78
Dubois, Paul, 339
Ducerceau. _See_ Androuet Ducerceau
Duflos, August, 312, 317
Du Fresnoy, C. A., 353
Dunstan, St., 67
Dürer, A., 185, 187, 190, 191, 250
Du Suau de la Croix, Comte, 338
Duvet, Jean, 200
"Eagle Fibula," 135
Eagle stones, 122
Eanred, 72
Earle, J., 69
Ear-picks, Renaiss., 250-1
Earrings, xxxix, xl
" Anglo Saxon, 58
" ancient British, 40
" Byzantine, 35, 37
" " in Middle Ages, 112
" Egyptian, 4
" English, 16-17 cent., 234-5
" Etruscan, 23
" Frankish, 58
" Greek, 15, 16
" medl., 112, 113
" " English, 92
" worn by men, 234-5, 332
" Merovingian, 58
" Phoenician, 9
" Renaiss., 233-5
" Roman, 28-9
" 17 cent., 291
" 18 " 309, 317
" 19 " 328
East Anglia, 60
Edict of Nantes, 305
Edinburgh, High Street, 133
" St. Giles' Church, 133
" National Museum of Antiquities, 77, 132, 150, 165
Edmer, 92
Edward the Confessor, K. of England, 92, 102, 118
" I, K. of England, 67, 92
" II " 93, 162
" III " 93, 121, 161, 162
" IV " 115, 116
" VI " 218, 219
" " " Prayer Book of, 274
" VII " 217, 224
Effigies, sepulchral, jewellery on, 82
Eglentine, Prioress, jewel worn by, 129
Egyptian jewellery, 1-7, 49
Elché, "Lady of," 9, 10
Electrum, primitive Italy, 24
_Elenchi_, 28
Eligius, St. _See_ Eloy
Elizabeth, Q. of Bohemia, 301
" " England, 213-20, 232, 234, 237, 239, 251-256,
265, 267, 269, 273, 301
" Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino, 172
Eloy, or Eloi, St., 67, 155
Emeralds, Spanish, 205
Empire jewellery, 326
Enamel, 49
" Battersea, 320
" _basse-taille_, 87, 97, 138
" Bilston, 320
" Byzantine, 35
" Celtic, 41
" champlevé, English, 16 cent., 211
" " medl., 85, 138
" " Romano-British, 45
" " on rings, 17 cent., 295
" " Spanish, 17 cent., 204
" " 16-17 cent., 283 etc.
" " 17 cent., 292
" cloisonné, 70, 136, 283
" " Anglo-Saxon, 66, 68
" " Byzantine, 35, 36
" " medl., 84
" " Tara brooch, 66, 78
" Egyptian, 3
" _émail en blanc_, 87
" _émail en résille sur verre_, 273, 293, 296
" _émail en ronde bosse_, 87, 225
" English 16 cent., 216
" " 18 " 313
" "filigree enamel," (_Draht-Email_), 198, 347
" French, 18 cent., 311, 312
" Gallo-Roman, 46
" "gold wire," 224
" Greek, 13, 15, 17
" Hispano-Moresque, 205
" Irish, 66, 78
" Limoges, medl., 86
" " Renaiss. for enseignes, 229
" "Louis Treize," 286, 289, 293
" medl., 84-88
" opaque, French, 16 cent., 199, 200
" painted, 346, 347
" " on peasant jewellery, 344, 347
" " 17 cent., 285, 292, 293, 295
" Renaiss., 180
" Romano-British, 45
" Toutin firing an, 285, 289
" transluscent, 17 cent., 283
" " 18 " 312
" " _See_ _Basse-taille_
" white, _émail en blanc_, 87
" 17 cent., general, 283, 298
" " on watches, 297
" 18 cent., 312
" 19 cent., revival of, 337
England, medl. jewellery, 91-98
" 16 cent. jewellery, 206-221
" 17 " " 299-306
" 18 " " 310
Engraved designs for jewellery, English, 18 cent., 310, 312
Engraved designs for jewellery, French, 16 cent., 200, 201
Engraved designs for jewellery, Flemish, 16 cent., 196, 197
Engraved designs for jewellery, German, 16 cent., 186-7, 191-4
Engraved designs for jewellery, 17 cent., 280-9, 291-8
Engraved designs for jewellery, 18 cent., 308-10, 312, 320
Engraved gems, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154
" " medl. use of, 101-4
" " in rings, Romano-British, 47
" " 16 cent., 227, 245
" " 19 cent., 326, 327
Enkomi, Cyprus, 12
Enseignes, 156, 169
" medl., 107-111, 146
" Renaiss., 222-230, 267
" with skulls, 364, 365
"Equipage," 323
Erasmus, D., 109
Eros, 15, 16
_Escarcelle_, 165
"Esclavo," 204
_Escoffion_, 107, 156
_Esguillettes_, 269
_Espreuves_, 123
Essen, Treasury of, 143
" medl. brooches at, 143-145
Essence d'orient, 358
Estampes, Duchess of, 181
Este, Beatrice d', Duchess of Milan. _See_ Beatrice
" Isabella d', Marchioness of Mantua. _See_ Isabella
_Estrennes_, 153, 213
Ethelbert, K. of Kent, 65
Ethelswith, 71
" ring of, 72
Ethelwulf, K. of Wessex, 71
" ring of, 72
Ethred, 72
Eton College, 115
Etruscan goldsmiths, 8
" jewellery, 20-26, 333
Étuis, Eng., 18 cent., 309, 310, 323
" pinchbeck, 316
" Renaiss., 272
Eudel, P., 360, 362
_Euphues_, 273
Eustachio, Fra, 175
Evans, A. J., 43
" Sir J., 47, 62, 296
Evelyn, John, 298, 299, 367
Evil Eye, 164, 250
"Exeter Book," 57
Exmewe, Thomas, 208
_Ex voto_, 136
Eyck, van, 106
" John van, 90, 155
Eyelets, Renaiss., 268
Eymaker, 310
_Façon d'Angleterre_, 162
Fahrner, T., 339
Faience, Egyptian, 2, 7
Falize, Lucien, 335
Falkland, Viscount, 295
Fane, Sir S. Ponsonby, 322
Fans, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272
Fashion, influence on jewellery, 28, 80, 178, 370
_Fausse montre_, 324
Faversham, 57
Fay, J. B., 312, 317
Feathers, jewelled, as aigrettes, 17 cent., 231
Feather jewel for hats, English, 17 cent., 300
Fedeli, Ercole, 158
Feder, von, 190
Federigo of Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino, 171
"Felicini" altar-piece, 170
Felicini, Bartolomeo, 170
Felspar, green, 3
Fenwolf, Morgan, 208
Ferdinand of Tirol, Archduke, 188
Ferenzuola, Giovanni da, 185
_Fermail_, 93, 128, 131, 137, 141
_Fermailleurs_, 131
_Ferronnière_, 172, 328
Fessey, J., 310
Fibulæ, xlii, xliii, 127
" Anglo-Saxon, 59, 127
" Byzantine, 34
" Etruscan, 24
" Roman, xlii
" Romano-British, xlii, 46
" "spectacle," xlii
" _See also_ Brooches
Field of Cloth of Gold, 207, 237
Filigree, 19
" Byzantine, 35
" " influence in Europe, 35
" Etruscan, 24
" gold, in Portuguese jewellery, 347
" gold, in 17 cent. memorial jewellery, 368
" Greek, 13, 16
" in Jewish wedding rings, 262
" silver, in German peasant jewellery, 346
Fillets, xxxix
" Etruscan, 23
" medl., 105
" Phoenician, 9
" Roman, 28
Finger rings. _See_ Rings
_Finger-ring Lore_, 296
Finiguerra, Tommaso (Maso), 168
Firens, P., 293
_Firmacula_, 92, 138
Fisher, Alexander, 339
Fitzhardinge, Lord, 73, 274
Flach, Thomas, 310
Flanders, influence of, in 15 cent., 142
Fleece, Golden, 24
" " Order of, 90
Flemish-Burgundian jewellery, 143-6, 213
Flemish brooches, 15 cent., 146
" paintings, jewellery in, 89-90
" peasant jewellery, 345
" Renaiss. " 196, 197
Fleurs-de-lis, 93, 106
Florence, 167
" Bargello. _See_ Museo Nazionale
" Cathedral, 175
" Museo Nazionale (Bargello), 130
" Museo Nazionale (Bargello), Carrand collection, 145
" Pitti Gallery, 170, 233, 294
" Spedale di Santa Maria Nuova, 114
" Uffizi Gallery, 114, 117, 144, 168, 172, 264, 286, 294
" Uffizi Gallery, Galleria delle Gemme, 228 n.
" 15 cent. jewellery, 174
Flötner, Peter, 193
_Flower_, pendant called, 210, 217
Flowers, natural, designs in jewellery, 283, 285-9
Fob-pocket, 298, 323, 324, 332
Foil, gold, Anglo-Saxon, 60
Foils for precious stones, 60-63, 180, 260, 351, 355, 356
Fontenay, E., 4, 48, 72, 320, 335
Fontevraud, 141
Foppa Ambrogio, called Caradosso, 168
Forgeries, 313, 355-62
Fornarina, 233
Fortnum collection. _See_ Oxford, Ashmolean Museum
Foulc, E., 263
Fouquet, Georges, 338
Foy, René, 338
Foy, St., 112, 136, 137
Foyle, Lough, 43
France, barbaric jewellery, 56
" medl. jewellery, 88
" peasant jewellery, 342, 343
" Renaiss. jewellery, 199-201
" 17 cent. jewellery, 276
" 18 " " 309
" 19 " " 325
Francesca, Piero della, 171
Francia, F., 169, 170, 210
Francis I, K. of France, 172, 181, 199, 200, 208, 227
Frankfort-on-the-Main, 195
" Rothschild collection, 197
" Städel Institute, 233
Franks, the, 56
Franks, Sir A. W., 72, 185
" " _See also_ London, British Museum, Franks Bequest
Frauds, 355-62
Freeman, John, 208
Friessler, L., 339
Fritillaries, painted on enamel, 287
Froment-Meurice, 331
Frontlets, Egyptian, 3
" Greek, 16
" 19 cent., 328
Fruit-shaped pendants, medl., 125
Frye, Thomas, 317
Fugger family, 188
" Jacob, 210
Fuller-Eliott-Drake. _See_ Drake
Fuseli, H., 312
Gaillard, Lucien, 338
Gallo-Roman jewellery, 46
Garlande, Jean de, 131
Garnets, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 57, 58, 60, 61, 63, 67
" in barbaric jewellery, 49, 53
" in mourning jewellery, 370
" in Swiss peasant jewellery, 346
Garter, Order of, 254
" " pendent "George" of, 302
Gaudees (gauds), 124, 125
Gaskin, Arthur, 339
Gaul, 50
" invasion of by Teutonic races, 56
Gaveston, Piers, 67, 93
Geiss, 330
Gems, engraved, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154
" " in enseignes, 16 cent., 227
" " in girdles, 271
" " in pendants, 16 cent., 245
" " in pendants, 17 cent., 291, 292
" " 19 cent., 326-31
" sewn on dress, Byzantine, 34
" _See also_ Engraved gems
George, St., enseigne of, 224, 225
"George," of the Order of Garter, 302
George III, K. of England, 313
_Genista_, 110
Gérard, F., Baron, 329
Gerini, Casa, 350
Germanic tribes, 50
Germany, peasant jewellery, 346
" 16 cent., jewellery, 187-96
" 17 cent., jewellery, 276
Gheeraerts, Marc, 352
Ghemert, H., van, 284
Ghent, 89
" altar piece by the Van Eycks, at, 106
Ghiberti, Lorenzo, 168, 210
Ghirlandaio, Domenico del, 169, 170, 210, 263
" Ridolfo del, 170
_Ghirlande_, 169
Gibbons, Grinling, 287
Gibbs Bequest. _See_ London, British Museum
_Gigates_, 47
Giovio, Paolo, 260
_Gipcière_, 165
" _beams_, 165
Giraldus Cambrensis, 109
_Girandole_, 317, 318
Girdle, medl., in picture, 156
" -buckle, xlv, xlvi, 159, 160
" " design by Aldegrever, 194
" " " de Bry, 196
" " " Dürer, 190
" -buckles, 18 cent., 322
" -hangers, Anglo-Saxon, 63
Girdlers' Company of London. _See_ London
Girdles, xlv, xlvi
" Anglo-Saxon, 63
" Greek, 18
" medl., 159-65
" " England, 93, 94
" Renaiss., 270-2
" 17 cent., 296-7
" 19 cent., 329
Giuliano, Carlo, 22, 334, 359
Giustinian, S., 206
Glass, armlets, Romano-British, 47
" beads, Phoenician, 10
" " Roman, 29
" " Romano-British, 45
" diamond rings for writing on, 260
" Egyptian, 3, 6
" millefiori, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
" millefiori, in Romano-British jewellery, 46
" painted, in jewellery, "verre églomisé," 203-4
" paste, 1, 49, 52
Glastonbury, 67
Glenlyon brooch, 111, 132
Glockendon missal, 175
Glomy, 203
_Glossopetræ_, 122, 123, 156
Gloves, rings worn over, 149, 259
" slashing of, 259, 265
Gmünd, 339
_Gnadenmedaillen_, 248
Gnauth, 339
Gnostics, 101
Godberta, St., 155, 263
Godstow Priory ring, 150
Golconda, 278, 351
Gold, coloured, 311, 328
" imitation, 358, 359
Golden Fleece, 14
" " collar of, 90
" Hind, 253
"Goldshine," 316
Goldsmiths of Paris, medl., 134
" Company of London. _See_ London
" workshops, interiors of, 98, 155, 156, 158, 176, 201
Gondola, pendent jewel, in form of, 197, 247
Gonzaga, Elizabeth, Duchess of Urbino. _See_ Elizabeth
Gorget, from Petrossa, 52
Gorgets, ancient Irish, 42
Göss, 339
Gothic ornament, appearance of, 86
" nations, 49, 50
" revival, 19 cent., 331
" style, 19 cent., 332
Græco-Phoenician jewellery, 8
Graff, C., 339
_Grains de chapelet_, 125
Granulated gold, 327, 333
Granulation, Byzantine, 35
" Etruscan, 21, 24
" Greek, 12, 13
" Phoenician, 8
Granson, battle of, 210
Greek jewellery, 8, 11-19
" Islands, peasant jewellery, 246, 346
Green, J. R. (quoted), 66
Gregory XVI, Pope, 22
Gresham, Sir T., 237
Grey, Lady Jane, 254
Gribelin, Simon, 310
Grien, Hans Baldung, 189, 261
Grimani Breviary, 175
Grondoni, G. B., 309, 310
Guarrazar, 50, 53
Guay, J., 320
Guien, J., 310, 317
Guilds, goldsmiths', 134
" " rules against forgery, 356, 358, 359
_Guilloché_ gold, 312
Gurschner, G., 339
_Gypcière_, 94
Habsburg, family, 294
Hadaway, Mrs., 339
Hailler, D., 284
Hair, jewellery of, 368-70
" " 19 cent., 331
" ornaments for the, medl., 114
" " " Renaiss., 223
" " " 17 cent., 291
" " " 18 " 316
Hair-pins, xl, xli
" Anglo-Saxon, 57
" Etruscan, 23
" German peasant, 346
" Greek, 17
" Renaiss., 232-3
" Roman, 28
" Romano-British, 45
" 18 cent., 316
" 19 " 328
Hall, Bishop, 259
" Edward, 207, 211, 224
Hals, Agnes, 366
" Frans, 296, 362
Hamilton brooch, 70
" Palace collection, 303
Hammer, 339
Hampton Court Gallery, 245
Hanau, 339
Hannibal, 32
Hans of Antwerp, 208, 213
Harlay, family, 266
Haroun al-Raschid, 84, 118
Harrogate diamonds, 357
Harvey, Gabriel, 261
Hastings, Lord, 46
Hat-badges. _See_ Enseignes
" bands, jewelled, 224, 230
" ornaments, medl., 109
Hats, jewelled, medl., 107
" jewels on, English, 17 cent., 300, 301
" rings worn on, 261
Hauer, J. P., 287
Hauptmann, Franz, 339
Hays, Cornelius, 208
Head-appendages, Greek, 16
" dresses, Roman, 28
" ornaments, xxxix
" " Dutch, 344
" " ancient Irish, 42
" " Italian, 15 cent., 171, 172
" " medl., 105-12
" " Renaiss., 232
" " 18 cent., 316
" " 19 " 328
Hearts, peasant jewels in form of, 342-5
Hecke, van den. _See_ Van den Hecke
Heel, Johann, 309
Heeley, 319
Heem, Jan de. _See_ De Heem
Hefner-Alteneck, J. H. von, 195
Hendrickje Stoffels, 191
_Henin_, 107
Henlein, Peter, 274
Henrietta Maria, Q. of England, earrings of, 354
Henry I, K. of England, 92
" II " 141
" III " 92, 141, 151
" IV " 95, 115, 116, 140, 142, 162, 164
" V " 95, 110
" VI " 115
" VII " 216, 219
" VIII " 199, 206-13, 219, 224, 225, 226, 237, 238,
250, 252, 258, 263, 265, 267, 268, 269
" II, K. of France, 200, 365
" III " 200, 234
" IV " 314, 320
" K. of Castile, 109
" Prince of Wales, son of James I, 302-3
Hentzner, Paul, 214
Hera, 19
Herbals, precious stones in, 100 n.
Heraclius, Emperor, 59
Herbst, J. B., 310
Herculaneum, 29
" discovery of, 311
Herculean knot, rings shaped like, 32
Heriot, George, 268, 273, 300, 301, 304
" James, 210, 304
Heriot's Hospital, 301
Hermitage Museum. _See_ St. Petersburg
Herodotus, 363
Herrick, Nicolas, 220
" Robert, 220, 302
" Sir William, 220, 301, 302
Heyl, Baron von, 136
Highland brooches, 131-3
Hilary, St., 104
" " jewel of, 103, 136
Hilliard, Nicholas, 219, 253, 255
Hipkins, W. and Co., 315
Hirzel, H. R. C., 338
Hispano-Moresque jewellery, 205
Hissarlik, 9
Holbein, Hans, the younger, 190, 210-13, 224, 243, 252,
273, 351, 352, 363, 365
Holford, Major, 288
Holinshed, R., 207, 235
Holland, peasant jewellery, 344-5
Hollar, W., 190, 275
Holtzendorff treasure, 267
" family, 238
Holy Land, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86
Holyrood, 115
Homer, 19
Honervogt, J., 282
Honyson, Guillim, 208
Hooks and loops, medl., 140
" " eyes, Renaiss., 268
Hoop (of ring), xlv
Hornick, Erasmus, 193, 194, 251
Horus, 2
Huaud or Huault, 298
Hungary, 16 cent. jewellery, 197-8
" peasant jewellery, 347
Hunsdon, George Carey, Lord, 218, 265
" Henry Carey, Lord, 218, 253, 274
" jewels, 93, 218, 253, 274
Hunterston brooch, 79
Hurtu, J., 285
Hyderabad, 278
Ialysos, 12
Iconoclastic decrees, 34
_Iklyngton Coler_, 115
Ilchester, Earl of, 366
Il Rosso. _See_ Rosso
_Impresa_, 223
Imitation diamonds, 313-14
" gold, 358, 359
" pearls, 314
" precious stones, 18 cent., 313
Imitations, 355-62
Incrustation (or inlay), process of, 49-55
Initials, jewelled, Renaiss., on garments, 268
" jewels in form of, 211-12
" pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248
Inlaid jewellery, 35, 49-55
" " Anglo-Saxon, 60
Innocent III, Pope, 96, 148
Intaglio cutting on gold, Greek, 13
" medl., 138
Intaglios, antique, in medl. jewellery, 102
" Renaiss., 227
" Roman, 30
" 19 cent., 326
Inventories, jewellery in, 82, 88-9, 92-6, 142, 215, 258, 263, 353
Ionia, 22
Ipsamboul (Abu Simbel), 4
Ireland, cloisonné enamel, 66
" introduction of Christianity into, 75
" prehistoric ornaments in, 40-4
Irish missionaries, their influence on Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 66, 67
Iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330, 331
" prehistoric, 39
Isabella d'Este, Marchioness of Mantua, 158
" of France, Q. of England, 114
Italian jewellery, 15 cent., 166-76
" " 16 " 183-6
" peasant jewellery, 334, 346
Jacobson, Philip, 302, 304
James I, K. of England, 210, 230, 231, 235, 238, 257, 268, 299, 300-4
" II " 119
" St., of Compostella, 109
Jane Seymour, Q. of England, 212
Janssens, C., 352
Jaquin, 314
Jet jewellery, 48
" medl., 124
" mourning jewellery, 370
" Romano-British, 45, 47
Jewish wedding rings. _See_ Rings
"Jingling Geordie," 301
_Joaillerie_, 277
_Joailliers-faussetiers_, corporation of, 314
Joanna of Navarre, Q. of England, 141
_Jocalia_, 92, 138
John Anwarpe. _See_ Hans of Antwerp
" of Cambridge, 106
" the Constant, Elector of Saxony, 261
" Frederick, Elector of Saxony, 261
" of Leyden, 250
" St., Baptist, head of, 226, 227 n.
" " Evangelist, 36, 99, 103
" King of England, 92, 96
" II, King of France, 88
Jones, W., 296
Jonson, Ben, 151
Jörg, A., 284
Josephine, Empress, 29, 329-30
Juliers, William, Duke of. _See_ William
Jupiter, cameo of, considered to represent St. John, 103
" Capitolinus, temple of, 32
Justinian, Emperor, 33, 34
Jutes, 56, 59
K., P. R., 280, 284
Kameiros, 12
Kann collection, 169
Karlsruhe, 190
Kaufmann collection, 263
Kayle, Hugh, 220
Kensington (South) Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum
Kent, 60
Kentish cemeteries, 56, 57, 63
Kertch, 14, 16
" forged jewels, said to come from, 360
Kh[=a]-em-uas, 5
Khepera, 2
Kilbride, West, 79
Kilmainham brooch, 77
Kimmeridge shale, 47
King, C. W. (quoted), 100
Kings of the East, Three, 102, 111, 129, 132, 150, 152
Kingston brooch, 60
" -on-Thames, 142
_Klein-Meister_, 191-4
Kneller, Sir G., 353
Knives, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272
Knotwork, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 57
Koul-Oba, 14
Kraft, Adam, 120
_Kreuterbuch_, 100 n., 126
Labarre, P., 282
Laborde, L. de, 277
Laffitte, Gaston, 338
Lalique, René, 338
Lang, Andrew, 221, 353
Lange, Jehan, 208, 209
Latten, 161
La Quewellerie, G. de, 284, 295
Lannoy, Baldwin de, 90
" Raoul de, 116
Lapis-lazuli, 2, 136
Lark Hill, near Worcester, 154
Latium, 24
Laton, 161
Lauingen, 230, 232
Laverstoke, 72
Law, Thomas and Co., 315
"Lazos," 204, 294
Lead, medl. jewels of, 108-10, 131, 161
" models for jewellery, 192-3
Leblanc, 316
Le Blon, M., 284, 304
"_Leda and the Swan_," by Cellini, 185, 228
Ledyard, Adam, 124
Lefebure, F., 282, 291
Lefèvre, R., 329
Légaré, Gédéon, 282, 287
" Gilles, 279, 282, 287-9, 291, 293, 294, 296, 298, 366
Leicester, Robert Dudley, Earl of, 239, 274
Leland, J., 207
Lely, Sir P., 353
Leman, Baptist, 208
Le Mans, xliii, 128
Lemersier, B., 282
Lempereur, 312, 318
Lennox, Henry Stuart, Earl of, 217
" jewel, 217, 257
Lenton, F., 235, 357
Leo III, Emperor, 34
Leonardus, C., 100, 101
Leopold, J. F., 309
Letelen, Albert von, 139
Letters, jewels in form of, 211
" pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248
Leven and Melville, Earl of, 221, 353
Leyden, John of, 250
Liberale di Giacomo da Verona, 175
Liberation, German War of, 330
Liberty, A. Lazenby, 339
Lichtwark, A., 193
Limoges enamel, medl., 86
" enamelled enseignes made at, 229
Limavady treasure, 43
Lion's head on Egyptian jewellery, 5
" Phoenician jewellery, 9
Lions on archaic Greek jewellery, 12
Lipona, Countess, 16
Lippmann, F., 190
Lisbon, Museum of Fine Arts, 347
Linas, C. de, 52 n.
"Little masters" (_Kleinmeister_), 191-6
Liverpool, Mayer collection, 60
Lively, 110, 116-7
_Livre de Taille d'Épargne_, 309
Llewellyn, 152
Llys-fæn, Carnarvonshire, 71
Loch Buy brooch, 133
Lochner, Stephan, 145
Lockets, memorial, Eng., 17-18 cent., 368
" 17 cent., 293
Lombard Street, 115
Lombards (Gothic tribe), 50
Lombardy, peasant jewellery, 346
London, British Museum, 3, 4, 8-10, 12, 17, 23-8, 34, 37, 44, 46, 51,
60, 63, 69, 72, 74, 76, 108, 119, 122, 129, 132,
133, 138, 190, 211, 273, 297
" British Museum, Franks Bequest, 37, 110, 145, 148, 246, 264, 368
" British Museum, Gibbs Bequest, 57, 62, 63
" British Museum, Waddesdon Bequest, 125, 184, 226, 231,
248, 272, 303, 366
" British Museum, Sloane collection, 218, 255
" British Museum, Gold Ornament Room, 154, 292
" British Museum, Carlisle collection, 246
" British Museum, Room of Greek and Roman Life, 23
" Cuming Museum, Walworth Road, 361 n.
" Dorchester House, 225, 288
" Girdlers' Company, 161, 272
" Goldsmiths' Company, 131, 213
" Guildhall Museum, 108, 165
" National Gallery, 140, 171, 174, 238, 259, 264, 365
" National Portrait Gallery, 141 n., 212, 222, 235, 254
" Royal Academy, 312, 313
" St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate, 115
" St. Paul's Cathedral, 115, 138
" South Kensington Museum Jewellery Exhibition, 1872, 241
" South Kensington Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum
" Temple Church, 128
" Tower, 300
" Victoria and Albert Museum, 31, 36, 51, 72, 73, 120, 122, 129,
130, 138, 139, 163, 203, 218, 226,
231, 246, 248, 249, 254, 257, 266,
272, 273, 294, 296, 321, 334, 347,
356, 365, 369
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Art Library, 308, 344
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Dyce collection, 293
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Jones collection, 293
" Victoria and Albert Museum, Waterton collection, 149, 264
" Wallace collection, 226, 272, 296, 297
Londesborough collection, 129, 264
Loops (clasps), medl., 140
" Renaiss., 268
Lord Mayor of London, collar of, 117
Loreto, Santa Casa, 91
Lorn, brooch of, 133
Lothair II, K. of the Franks, 139
Lotto, Lorenzo, 263
Lotus flower, 4
Louis IX, St., K. of France, 119
" XI, K. of France, 109, 110, 116
" XII " 199
" XIII " 279, 286, 292
" XIV " 266, 279, 282, 293
" XV " 311, 320
" XVI " 311, 323
Louise Augusta, of Schleswig-Holstein, Princess, 339
Luckenbooth brooches, 133-4, 165
Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, 168, 172
Ludwig I, K. of Bavaria, 16
Lulls, Arnold, 231, 302, 304
Lunulæ, 42
Luthmer, F., xxxiv, 82, 135, 197, 240, 339, 352
Lyly, J., 217, 273
Lyons, 277
Lyte jewel, 257, 293, 303, 304, 354
" Sir H. Maxwell, 304
" Thomas, 303, 304, 354
Mabell, 269
Mabuse, 261, 351
Macdougals of Lorn, 133
Macleans of Loch Buy, 133
Macneals of Firfergus, 133
Macquoid, Mrs. Percy, 120
Madrid, Royal Armoury, 53
" Museum of Antiquities, 9
Mænad, 15
Magi. _See_ Kings of the East
Magna Græcia, 14, 17, 18
Magnussen, E., 339
Mainz, 135-7
Mainz Cathedral, 137
" " Treasury, 137
" Museum, 136
_Maîtres ornemanistes_, 246
Malone, E., 123 n.
Mammillary fibulæ, xliii, 42
Mantle clasps, medl., 140, 141
Manuscripts, representation of jewellery in, 82, 97, 174, 175, 176
Marbode, Bishop of Rennes, 100 n.
Marcasite, 315, 319, 321
Marchant, Pierre, 281, 292, 306
Margaret, Q. of Scotland, 114-115
Maria, 312, 319
Marie Antoinette, Q. of France, 316, 317, 318
Mariette, P. J., 288
Martial, 31, 355
Martin, brothers, 204
" Sir Richard, 220
Mary, the Blessed Virgin, 36, 37
" " monogram of, 97, 204, 249
" of Burgundy, Empress, 146 n., 246 n.
" daughter of James I, 302
" Q. of England, 207, 219, 237, 254, 269
" Q. of Scots, 220, 221, 234, 265, 268, 269, 353, 366
_Marygold by Temple Bar_, The, 306
Matsys, Quentin, 156, 227 n., 263
Mathias Corvinus, King of Hungary, 175
Mauricius, Emperor, 59
Mayer collection. _See_ Liverpool
Maximilian, Archduke of Austria, 248
" I, Emperor, 191, 146 n.
" II " 188
Mazarin, Cardinal, 279
Medallions on the hat, 229. _See also_ Enseignes
Medals, pendent, Renaiss., 247-8
" " English, 257
Medici, family, 114, 260, 294
" " device of, 260
" Costanza de', 170, 263
" Cosimo de', 260
" Francesco de', 233
" Guiliano de', 171
" Lorenzo de', 171, 260
" Lucrezia de', 292
" Piero de', 260
Mediterranean, 8, 21
Melillo, 334, 359
Melos, 17
"Memento Mori," 363-70
Memorial jewellery, 321, 331
" rings, 364-70
Merchants' marks on rings, 153
Mermaids, pendants in form of, Renaiss., 249, 250, 251
" " hung with bells, 164 n.
Merman, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 243, 249, 251
Merovingian dynasty, 52, 55
" jewellery, 46, 56
Merovingians, 50
Meuse, jewels found in, 143
Michelangelo di Viviano, 171
Mielich, Hans, 195, 226
Mignot, D., 193, 231, 280, 284, 304
Migrations of the Tribes, 49
Milan, Ambrosiana, 172
" Brera Gallery, 171
" Crespi Gallery, 225
" Poldi-Pezzoli Museum, 217, 255, 256
" S. Eustorgio, 111
" school of painting, 167
Millefiori glass in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59
" " in Romano-British jewellery, 46
Milvian Bridge, battle of, 226
Minden, 139
Miniature cases, 218
" " Elizabethan, 256
" " English, 17 cent., 303
" " 17 cent., 281, 293, 297
" frames, pinchbeck, 316
" " 17 cent., by Marchant, 306
" " jewelled, 18 cent., by Toussaint, 313
Miniatures in bracelets, 319-20
" memorial jewellery, 369
Minster Lovel jewel, 69
_Minuteria_, xxxiii, 227 n.
"Mirror of France," 300
Mirror cases, medl. 146
" Renaiss., 272
" 17 cent., 297
Mithridates, 29
Mitres, jewels on, 97, 98
Mocha stone, 321
Models for jewellery in lead, 192-3
Möhring B., 338
Monckton, Lady, 317
Moncornet, B., 282, 287, 288
Monday, John, 208
Mondon, 309, 317
_Monilia baccata_, 29
" medl., 121, 138
" Roman, 29
Monograms, pendants in form of, 204, 212, 248, 249
" sewn on garments, 268
Monogrammists, 284
_Montauban_, 224, 231
Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 323
Monte di Giovanni, 175
Montefeltro, Federigo of, Duke of Urbino. _See_ Federigo
Moorish influence on Portuguese peasant jewellery, 347
" influence on Spanish peasant jewellery, 205, 347
_Mordant_, xlvi, 159, 160, 162, 271
More, Sir Antonio, 352
Moreau, P., 312
Moreelse, Peter, 232
Morgan, Sir Matthew, 266
" Octavius, 148
" Pierpont, collection, 169, 173, 217, 248, 254, 256,
293, 297, 313 n.
Morisson, F. J., 308, 310
Morlière (of Orleans), 287
_Mors de chape_, 137
Morses, 121, 137-40
Mosaic jewellery, 19 cent., 327
Mosaics, Byzantine, 33, 34, 36
Mosbach, H., 282
Moser, G. M., 312
Moss agates, 18 cent., 321
" 19 cent., 328-9
Mottoes on rings, 295-6
Moulds for casting jewellery, 108, 122
Mount Charles, Countess of, 240
Mourning jewellery, 331, 369, 370
" rings, 296, 364-70
Mummies, 1, 6
Munich, 194
" Antiquarium, 3, 16
" Bavarian National Museum, 62, 120, 157, 192, 195, 231, 232, 247
" Coin Cabinet, 248
" jewels made at, 245
" Pinakothek, 261, 263
" Royal Library, 195, 226
" Royal Treasury, 195, 251
" in 16 cent., 188, 189
Munk, Eugenie, 339
Murat, Joachim, 16
Museums, collections of jewellery in, 336
" portraits and jewels in, 349
Mycenæ, 11, 19, 40, 43
Mycenæan jewellery, 11
" period, 21, 22
Mytens, D., 352
Nail, Holy, 204
Nancy, battle of, 107
Nantes, Edict of, 305
Napoleon I, Emperor, 118, 325, 329, 332
" III " 118
Narwhal, 123
Nassaro, Matteo del, 226, 227
National Gallery, London. _See_ London, National Gallery
"Navette" pendants, 246
Neckam, A., 92
Newman, Mrs., 339
Neck-chains, xl
" medl., 113-17
" Renaiss., 236-41
Necklaces, xl, xliv
" Anglo-Saxon, 58, 59, 74
" ancient British, 40
" Egyptian, 4
" Etruscan, 24
" Greek, 17
" hair, 19 cent., 331
" Italian, 15 cent., 172-3
" medl., 113-17, 121
" Phoenician, 10
" Renaiss., 236-42, 266, 285
" " perfumes worn in, 265
" rings worn on, 152, 261
" Roman, 29
" Romano-British, 45
" 17 cent., 291
" 18 " 313, 317, 318
" 19 " 328-31
Necklets, 113-17
" Renaiss., 239-40
Neck-ornaments, ancient Irish, 42
Nef, 246
" jewel, 252
Nene, 72
Neolithic Age, 47
Nephthys, 5
Neuburg, Amalia Hedwig of, 232
" Counts Palatine of, 232
" Dorothea Maria, wife of Otto Henry, Count of, 231
" Otto Henry, Count Palatine of, 230
Newcastle, William Cavendish, Duke of, 263
New College jewels, 96-8. _See also_ Oxford
New Year's gifts, 153, 213, 215, 220, 265, 302
Niello, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3
" Byzantine, 36
" Italian, 15 cent., 163, 168, 173
" on medl. brooch, 130
" on Tara brooch, 78
"Niello" designs, engraved, 284, 295
Nolin, P., 285
Norfolk, Duke of, 221
" " badge of, 110
Norman Conquest, 65
Normandy, peasant jewellery, 342, 343
Norsemen, ravages of England, 68
Northumbria, 60
Norway, peasant jewellery, 345
Nose-ornaments, ancient British, 40
Nouches, 70, 93, 111, 121, 141, 142, 145, 223
_Nowche_ or _nuche_, 141, 223
_Nummi bracteati_, Anglo-Saxon, 59
"Nuremberg eggs," 275
Nuremberg, 194
" jewellery made at, 202
" Germanic Museum, 232, 238, 272, 349
" St. Lawrence's Church, 120
" Town Library, 175
" 16 cent., 188, 189
Nutwell Court, 253
Odobesco, A., 52 n.
Olbia, forged jewels said to come from, 360
Olbrich, J. M., 338
_Oldano_, 275 n.
Oliver, I., 303
" P., 293
Olonne, Countess d', 288
Oppenheim, Baron A., 155
_Opus interrasile_, Byzantine, 34, 35
" Roman, 30
Orleans, Duke and Duchess of (1408), 162
_Orles_, 106
Ornament engravings. _See_ Engraved designs for jewellery
Orpheus, 100
Osma, J. G. de, 204
Ossian, 331
Otho II, Emperor, 34
_Ouch_ or _owche_, 141, 223. _See also_ Nouches
Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, 29, 60, 68, 73, 238, 298
" Ashmolean Fortnum collection, 264
" Bodleian Library, 63, 264
" New College, 123, 142, 149
" University Galleries, 293
Oxus treasure, 51
_Paillons_, 180, 260
Palestine, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86
Palissy, Bernard, 229
Palmer, Col. N., 68
" Thomas, 68
_Panier_, 319
Pantikapaion, 14
Paphos, 17
Paris, Bibliothèque Nationale, Cabinet des Médailles et Antiques,
30, 52, 53, 103, 185, 200, 225,
228, 245, 266, 292, 320, 330
" Dutuit collection, 139
" goldsmiths of, medl., 134
" Louvre, 3, 5, 6, 9, 12, 172, 272, 291, 297, 329
" " Campana collection, 23, 24
" " Davillier Bequest, 251
" " Galerie d'Apollon, 137, 139, 154, 249
" " Adolphe Rothschild Bequest, 139, 240, 245
" " Salle des Bijoux Antiques, 23
" " Sauvageot collection, 154
" Musée Cluny, 53, 108, 139, 250, 251
" Notre-Dame, 329
" Quai des Orfévres, 314
Parmigianino (Mazzuola), 233
Parrot, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249
Parthey, G. F. C., 190-91
Partridge, Affabel, 220
" Mr. and Mrs., 339
Parure, 18 cent., 308
Pastes, 355-7
" imitating garnets, in Barbaric jewellery, 49-54
Paste jewellery, 18 cent., 314
" 19 " 328
Paternosterers, 124
Paton, J., 99
Patrick, St., 75
Pattern-books for jewellers, 17 cent., 280, 304
Pattern-books for jewellers, English, 18 cent., 310
Paul III, Pope, 199
"Paul's windows," 87
Peacocks, 35, 37
"Pea pod" ornament, 281, 289, 292, 293
Pearls, 314
" baroque, in Renaiss. pendants, 244
" " " toothpicks, 251
" in Byzantine jewellery, 33
" earrings, 234, 235, 291
" Q. Elizabeth's, 215
" false or mock, 314, 315, 357, 358
" pendent cluster, on jewels, 253 347
" pendent from Renaiss. jewels, 243
" _perles à potences_, 174
" ropes of, in the hair, 232, 316
" " as necklaces, 113, 239, 318
" "Roman," 358
" in Roman jewellery, 28
" Scottish, 121, 133, 356
" setting of, 15 cent., 174
" "Venetian," 358
" 19 cent., 328
Peasant jewellery, 341-7
" Dutch, 344-5
" Flemish, 345
" French, 342-4
" German, 346
" Hungarian, 197-8, 347
" Italian, 346
" Norwegian and Swedish, 345-6
" Portuguese, 347
" Spanish, 205, 347
_Pectoralia_, 138
Pectorals, Egyptian, 5
" medl., 135-46
Pembroke, Earl of, 116
Penannular brooch, xlii, xliii, 74
Pendants, xl
" Anglo-Saxon, 58
" Egyptian, 5
" Etruscan, 24
" Flemish, 16 cent., 196
" girdle, medl., 159-60
" " Renaiss., 272, 275
" Italian, 15 cent., 169, 173
" medl., 118-26, 156
" Phoenician, 10
" Renaiss., 242-57
" " English, 212, 251-7
" " forgery of, 361
" " worn on hats, 223
" Roman, 29, 30
" 17 cent., 281, 291-4
" 18 " 309
_Pendeloques_, 291, 318
_Pendulum_, 93
Penicuik jewel, 221
Penruddock jewel, 252, 353
" Sir George, 353
_Pent-à-col_ (_pentacols_), 113, 121, 242
Pepys, S., 367
_Peres de eagle_, 122
Perfumes in bracelets, 265
" in earrings, 234
" in necklaces, 265
" in pomanders, medl. 125-6
" " Renaiss., 275
Persia, 33, 34, 50
Persian origin of inlaid jewellery, 52
Peru, emeralds from, 205
Peruzzi, Vincenzo, 279
Petitot, J., 288, 293, 304
Petrossa, treasure of, 50, 52
Peutin, John, 90
Pewter, jewels of, 111, 131, 161
Pforzheim, 339
Philibert, Margrave of Baden, 250
Philip "the Good," Duke of Burgundy, 89 n., 90, 155
Phoenicians, 21
Phoenicians jewellery, 7-10
Phoenix jewel, 218, 254, 255, 286
Phillips, Robert 335
Phylacteries, 122
Pichon, Baron, 119, 130, 264
"Picture-cases" (miniature-cases), English, 17 cent., 303
Pictures, jewellery in, 82, 329, 348-54
" Flemish jewellery in, 89, 90
" German jewellery in, 145, 189
" Italian, 15 cent., jewellery in, 167-76
" Italian, 16 cent., jewellery in, 183
" medl. necklaces in, 114-15
" " rings in, 155-6
_Pierre d' Alençon_, 343, 357
Piers Plowman, 153
Pilgrims' signs, 107-11, 222
" forgery of, 360-1
Piloty, 338
Pinchbeck, 315-16, 327, 359
" Christopher, 316, 321
" Edward, 321
Pinnow, 238, 267
Pins, xi-xli
" Anglo-Saxon, 57, 74
" ancient British, 41
" Romano-British, 45
Pinturicchio, B. B., 267
Plaquettes, 193
Plate-inlaying, 50
Plates or discs of gold, 11
" " ancient Irish, 43
" " Mycenæan, 12
Platinum, 311
Pliny, 28, 30, 32, 47, 355
Plon, Eugène, 184
Ploumyer, Allart, 208, 209
Plume decoration on hat, 111
Points, Renaiss., 267-9
Poison, medl. tests for, 123
" in rings, 32
Poitiers, Diana of, 266, 364
Pollaiuolo, A., 168, 174, 210
" P., 168
_Polypsephi_ rings, 32
Pomander, design for, by Dürer, 191
" medl., 125-6, 160
" Renaiss., 270, 275
" in form of skulls, 364
" 17 cent., 296
_Pomeambre_, 125
Pompadour, Madame de, 311, 320
Pompeii, 311, 326, 363
Pompey, 29
Pompoms (buttons), Renaiss., 268
Pont-y-Saison, 46
Portinari, Tommaso, 114
" " daughter of, 114, 115, 117
" " Maria, wife of, 114, 144
Portland, Duke of, 221, 235, 354
Portraits, enamelled, as pendants, 17 cent., 292
" on bracelet clasps, 319-20
" on rings, Roman, 31
" " 18 cent., 320
"Portugal diamond," 300
Portugal, peasant jewellery, 347
Posy (posies), 128, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321
Pottery, glazed, 1
Pouches, medl., 165
Pouget, the younger, 312, 314, 317
Pourbus, Peter, 352
Prague, 188, 198
" Cathedral Treasury, 121
Præneste, 24
Prato, Girolamo del, 185
Prayer-books, enamelled gold, 218, 273, 274
Precious stones, imitation of, 355-8
" in modern jewellery, 337, 338
" setting of, in Renaiss. jewellery, 180, 260
" mystery of, 99-104
" 19 cent., 328
Predis, Ambrogio da, 172
Prerogative Royal, 44
Price, F. G. Hilton, 306
"Primavera," 169
"Primrose," Mrs., 350
Prutscher, O., 339
Ptolemaic jewellery, 6
"Pulvisculus aureus," 21
Purbeck, Island of, 47
Purled work, 19 cent., 327
Purses, Anglo-Saxon, 63
" medl., 165
Puy, peasant jewellery, 343
_Pylon_, 5
Pynson, R., 236
Pyrites, iron (marcasite), 315
Quartz, 313
" crystals, 357
Raab, H., 287
Rabelais, F., 199
Raibolini, Francesco. _See_ Francia
Raimbau, Mlle., 312
Raleigh, Sir Walter, 235
Rameses II, 4, 5
Raphael, 182, 226
Ravenna, 33, 70
" Sant' Apollinare Nuovo, church of, 36
" San Vitale, church of, 33, 36
Raynes, Robert, 237
_Reasons_, 152
Récamier, Madame, 326
Reccesvinthus, 54
Red Sea, 28
Rée, P. J., 275
Relics, 102, 108, 111, 118, 125
" in rings, 152
Reliquaries, Byzantine, 36
" Italian, 15 cent., 173
" medl., 118-19, 121, 160
" Spanish, 203, 347
Rembrandt, 291
Renaiss. jewellery, its general characteristics, 177-183
Renty, 316
Repoussé work, 11
" Byzantine, 34
" Egyptian, 3
" Etruscan, 21
" Greek, 13
" Irish, 43
" Renaiss., 227
_Resons_, 152
Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 313, 353
Rhenish enamels, 85-6
Rhine, Irish missionaries on, 67
Rhodes, 12
Richard I, K. of England, xliii, 128
" II " 94, 110, 114, 116, 141
" III " 116, 222
Ring-brooch. _See_ Brooch
Ring-money, 40, 43
Rings, xliv, xlv
" Anglo-Saxon, 62, 71-3
" betrothal, 261-2
" ancient British, 40
" Byzantine, 37
" charm, 151-2
" with coins, Roman, 32
" with death's heads, 364
" decade, 150
" devotional, 149, 150, 152
" " signets, 153
" made by St. Dunstan, 67
" ecclesiastical, 147-9
" Egyptian, 2, 67
" engagement, 261-2, 296
" engraved designs for, 263, 264, 284, 295, 296
" episcopal, xlv, 148, 149
" Etruscan, 25, 26
" _fede_, 152, 261
" _fyancel_, 152
" giardinetti, 295
" gimmel, 152, 261
" Greek, 18
" with hair, 331
" worn on hats, 261
" iconographic, 149, 150
" of investiture, 148
" Italian, 15 cent., 170
" jet, 47
" Jewish, 262
" key-rings, Byzantine, 37
" " Roman, 31
" _marquise_, 321
" medl., 147-57
" " with antique gems, 96, 101, 103, 148-9, 153-4
" " with false stones, 356
" " forged, 360
" memento mori, 365-70
" memorial, 364-70
" mourning, 296, 321, 367
" Merovingian, 62, 73
" Mycenæan, 11
" worn on necklaces, 152, 261
" nielloed, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3
" " Italian, 15 cent., 173
" ornamental, xlv
" " medl., 154-5
" " Renaiss., 258, 259
" " 17 cent., 295, 296
" papal, 148
" Phoenician, 10
" in pictures, 155-7, 261, 263, 295
" poison, 32
" _polypsephi_, Roman, 32
" posy, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321, 367
" with relics, 152
" religious, 149-50
" Renaiss., 258-64
" arranged along a roll of parchment, 155, 156, 170, 263
" Roman, 31
" Romano-British, 47
" Samothracian, 32
" in ancient sculpture, 18
" signets, xlv, 298
" " of Childeric I, 53, 63
" " Egyptian, 6
" " Greek, 18
" " medl., 153-154
" " Roman, 31
" " 17 cent., 298
" talismanic, 111
" Teutonic, _à trois grains_, 73
" wedding, xlv
" " medl., 152
" " converted into memorial, 367
" " Jewish, 262
" " Renaiss., 262
" " 17 cent., 296
" " 18 cent., 321
" 17 cent., 295-6
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 320, 321
Rivard, C., 282, 291
Rivers, ornaments found in, 107
Roach Smith nouche, 69
Robin, 331
Robinson, F. S., 339
Rococo, 307, 308, 311, 324, 332
Rogart, 77
"Roman de la Rose," 113, 164
Roman jewellery, 27-32
Romano-British jewellery, 44-48
"Romantic" jewellery, 331
" style, 332
Romanus, Emperor, 34
Rome, Barberini Palace, 175
" Baths of Petus, 182
" Castle of St. Angelo, 334
" National Gallery, 225
" Vatican, 22
" " Appartamento Borgia, 267
" " Gallery of Constantine, 226
" " Library, 175
" " Loggie, 182
Romerswael, Marinus van, 156
Romney, Earl of, 273
Rosenheim, Max, 193 n., 294
"Rössel," "das goldene," 88
Rosso, Il, 201
Rosaries, 124-5, 156
" as bracelets, 157
Rosary beads in form of skulls, 364
Rosette, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 294
Rothschild, Baron F., 303
" Baron K., 197
Rotterdam Gallery, 232
Rouen, 128
" peasant jewellery, 343
Roy, 237
Rubens, P. P., 287
Rubies, 148, 260
" of Charles the Bold. _See_ Three Brothers
Rudolf II, Emperor, 100, 188, 189
Rudolphine Period, 188
Runic characters on Hunterston brooch, 79
Russia, Byzantine jewellery in, 38
" Greek jewellery in, 14-16
Sabines, 20
Sabra, princess, 224
_Sacré Coeur_, 345
Safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41
Saint, T. D., 312
St. Angelo in Vado, 333
St. Denis Cathedral, 137
" " treasury, 103
_Saint Esprit_, 343
St. Germain, Musée des Antiquités Nationales, 46
St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate. _See_ London
St. Hilary, jewel of, 103
St. Paul's Cathedral. _See_ London
St. Petersburg, Hermitage Museum, 9, 15, 16
Saitapharnes, tiara of, 360
Salting, George, 119, 176, 224, 248, 263
Santini family, drawings by, 308, 317, 318, 344
Sapphires, 54, 151
Saragossa, treasury of the Virgen del Pilar, 144, 203, 249
Sarawak, Ranee of, 339
Sardinia, 8, 9, 21
Sardonyx, 31
Sarre, 59
" brooch, 60
Sarum, 138
Saur, C., 284
Savoy, peasant jewellery, 342
Saxons 50, 56
Scandinavians, 50
Scarabs, 2, 5, 6, 10, 25
Scent-cases, 125-6, 275
Schaffhausen onyx, 103, 104, 136
Schaper, Hugo, 238
Schliemann, H., 11, 40
Schneider, F., 137
Schönbrunn, 294
Schöpfer, H. 250
_Schotenornamentik_, 281
_Schwarzornamente_, 283, 289
Scissors suspended to girdle, 272
Scorpion, jewelled, 172
Scotland, introduction of Christianity into, 75
" Celtic brooches, 75-9
" medl. brooches, 131-4
Scott, Sir Walter, 301, 331
Scythian tribes, 14
Seal stone, Egyptian, 6
Seals, medl., 139
" pendent, 17 cent., 298
" 18 cent., 309, 312, 322-4
" 19 " 332
Seffrid, Bishop of Chichester, 149
Seghers, D., 287
Seneca, 29
Serpent bracelet, Roman, 30
" ring, Greek, 18
Set-Hathor, 5
_Sévignés_, 294, 298, 318
Shagreen jewel-cases, 362
Shale, Kimmeridge, 47
Shakespeare, W., 151, 216, 229, 237
" portrait of, 235
Shank (of ring), xlv
Sheffield plate, 315
" steelwork, 315
Sherborne Castle, 267
Ships, pendants in form of, 249, 252, 253, 347
Shoe-buckles, 299, 321, 322
" -strings, 322
Shoes, rosettes on, 299
Shore, Jane, 115
Shrines, jewels on, 91, 108
Sicily, 27
" Arabs in, 84
" peasant jewellery, 347
" Roman plunder of, 27
Siena Cathedral, 175
" school of painting, 167
_Signacula_, 109, 111
Signs of pilgrimage, 107
Silhouette, Etienne de, 314
" designs, 283, 284, 289, 304
" portraits, 314
Silhouettes in mourning jewellery, 369
Silver jewellery worn by virgins, 342
_Similor_, 316, 359
Simon, James, 163
Simpson, E., 339
" T., 304
"Sippenaltar," 145 n.
Sirens, pendants in form of, 250
Skeletons, 363-7
Skulls, 364-6
Slashes in garments, 259, 265, 268-9
Slides, 342, 343
" memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368
Sloane, Sir Hans, 72, 211, 255
Slott-Möller, H., 339
Smith, C. Roach, 62, 69
" J., 310
" R. Soden, 264
Sodoma (Bazzi), 233
Solder, Egyptian, 3
" Etruscan, 20, 21
" Greek, 13
" Phoenician, 8
" prehistoric, 39
Solis, Virgil, 193, 194
Somerset, Alfred in, 68
" Anne, Duchess of, 233, 273
" Edward Seymour, Duke of, 233, 273
" Robert Carr, Earl of, 235
Southampton, Henry Wriothesley, Earl of, 235
South Kensington Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum
Spain, Arabs in, 84
" Phoenician sculpture in, 9
" peasant jewellery, 347
" 16 cent. jewellery, 202-205
" 17 cent. jewellery, 294
"Spangle money," 59
Spenser, E., 217
Sphinxes, 5, 16
Spilman, Sir J., 301
_Spinther_, 30
Spiral ornament, 11
" " Celtic, 39, 75
Spitzer collection, 246
SS Collar, 116-17
Stabler, Harold, 339
Stafford, Lady, 154
_Stalagmia_, 29
Steatite, 5
Steel jewellery, 315, 319
Stephan, Master. _See_ Lochner
Stephanus. _See_ Delaune, Etienne
Stock-buckles, 322
Stoffels, Hendrickje, 291
Stoffler, W., 339
"Stomacher," 318, 350
Stone Age, 47
Stowe, J., 207
Stras or Strass, 314, 315, 357
Strawberry Hill, 257, 288
Strigel, Bernard, 189, 238
Stuart, Arabella, 299
" Henry, Earl of Lennox. _See_ Lennox
Stubbes, Philip, 215, 234, 272
Studded girdle, 161
Suffolk, Henry Grey, Duke of, 254
Sulla, 28
Sumptuary laws, 27, 93, 94, 161
Sustermans, J., 294
Svinthila, 50, 54
Swans on Byzantine jewellery, 37
Sweden, peasant jewellery, 345
Switzerland, use of marcasite in 18 cent., 315
" peasant jewellery, 346
Symonds, J. A. (quoted), 168, 185
Symony, P., 282, 284
_Tableau_ or _tabulet_, 120
Tablets, votive, pendent, 119
Tag of girdle, xlvi, 160
Tags (aglets), 269
Talaura, 29
Talbot, 249
" Earl of Shrewsbury, badge of, 110
Talismans, 30, 99, 101, 109, 111, 121, 129, 132, 147, 151
Talismanic inscriptions on Scottish brooches, 111, 131
Tallien, Madame, 326
Taman, 14
Taplow buckle, 63
Tara brooch, 66, 78, 79
Tassels, Greek, 18
" of medl. clasps, 140
" Phoenician, 9
Tassie, J., 315, 330
Tauric Chersonese, 14
Tavernier, J. B., 278
Terrey, William, 304
_Tet_, 2
Teutonic jewellery, 51, 53
" nations, 56, 57
Tharros, 9, 10
Theban dynasties, 3
Theodamas, 100
Theodora, Empress, 33
Theophano, 34
Theophilus, 85, 356
Thirty Years' War, 189, 238, 276
Thomas à Becket, St., 91, 96, 109, 140
Three Brothers, jewel called, 209, 300
Three Kings of the East. _See_ Kings
Tiara of Saitapharnes, 360
Tiffany, Messrs., 339
_Tinctura_, 278, 351
Titian, 264
_Titulus_, 132
Toadstones, 100, 123, 151
Toes, jewels on, 19 cent., 326
Tongue of buckle, xlvi
Toothpicks, 250-1
Tor Abbey, Devonshire, 365
Tornabuoni, Giovanna, 169
Torque, from Petrossa, 52
_Torques bracchialis_, 30
Torques, 236
" ancient British, 40
" " Irish, 42, 43
Touching-pieces, 123
Tournai, 52
_Tours de tête_, 328
_Tousches_, 123
Toussaint, Augustus, 313
Toutin, H., 285, 295
" J., 285, 293, 295
" J., in his workshop, 289
Tovaloccio Piero, Giovanni and Romolo del, 185
Tower of London. _See_ London
Townley brooch, 70
"Toys," "Toyman," 316
Tradescant, John, the younger, wife of, 298
Translucent enamel on relief. _See_ Enamel, _basse-taille_
Transylvania, 58
Traquair, Mrs., 339
Treasure hoards, 51
" Trove, 44
Treasuries, jewellery preserved in, 83
Trender, Peter, 220
_Tressoures_, 93, 105
"Triplet," 357
Triptychs, pendent, 119-20
_Triquetra_, 78
Triton, pendant in form of, 243, 249
Troad, 9
Trumpet pattern, Celtic, 43
" " on Tara brooch, 78, 79
Tucher, Baron, collection of, 225
"Tulipomania," 286
Tulips painted on enamel, 286
Turkey stone, 151
Turquoise, 3, 67, 151
Turner (potter), 315
Tuscany, schools of painting, 167
Twiselton, John, 208
_Tymborychoi_, 13
Tyrol, peasant jewellery, 346
Tyszkiewicz, Count, 17, 360
Tytler, P. Fraser, 257
Ucker-Mark (N. Germany), 267
Ugadale brooch, 133
Uffila brooch, 62
Uffizi Gallery. _See_ Florence
Umbria, peasant jewellery, 346
Unger, Elsa, 339
Unicorn, Master of the, 200
Unicorn's horn, 123
Unicorns on medl. jewels, 145
" on Renaiss. jewels, 243
_Uniones_, 28
University brooch, 78
_Uræus_, 2
Urban VI, Pope, 122
Usekh collar, 5
Usertsen III, 5
Utrecht, John of, 208
_Uza_ or _utchat_, 2
Van den Hecke, J., 287
Van der Cruycen, L., 312, 317
" Doort, Abraham, 219
" Goes, H., 114, 117, 144
" Gow, J., 213 n.
Van de Velde, H. C., 338
Van Dyck, A., 354
Van Somer, P., 352
Van Strydonck, L., 339
Van Thielen, J. P., 287
Vasari, G., 168, 227
Vatican. _See_ Rome
Vauquer, J., 287-9, 293
Vautier, 297
Velasquez, 294
Venetian pendants, Renaiss., 246
Venetians, sack of Constantinople by, 38
Veneto (Veneziano), Bartolommeo, 225
Venice, Byzantine jewellery in, 83-84
" Library of St. Mark's, 175
" in Middle Ages, 89
" port of, 15-16 cent., 167
" school of painting, 167
Vermiculated patterns in gold, Anglo-Saxon, 63
Vernicles, 130
Veronese, Paolo, 172
Veronica, 130 n.
_Verre églomisé_, 203-4
Verrocchio, Andrea del, 168, 174 210
Versailles, Picture Gallery, 329
Verus, Lucius, 292
Vespasian, 28
Vespucci, Simonetta, 168
Vesuvius, 311
Vever, 338
Victoria, Q. of England, 257
Vienna, Imperial Art Collections, 30, 145, 185, 247
" Imperial Art Collections, Antiken-Kabinet, 228
" Picture Gallery, 155, 212
" Treasury, 188
" jewellery in, 18 cent., 308
" reproductions made in, 361
Vigée-Lebrun, Madame, 329
Vinci, Leonardo da, 172
Virgin, The. _See_ Mary, the Blessed Virgin
Visigoths, 50, 54
Vos, Cornelis de, 296
Vovert, J., 285
Vulci, 23, 24
Vyner, Sir Robert, 305
Waddesdon Bequest. _See_ London, British Museum
Wagner, Anna, 339
Walpole, Horace, 214, 257, 288
Walsingham Priory, 91, 108
War of Liberation, German, 330
Wars of the Roses, 95
Warwick, Earls, badge of, 110
"Wasps," 316
Watches, 16 cent., 274
" 17 cent., 274, 275, 297-8
" 18 cent., 309, 323-4
" egg-shaped, 275
" false, 324
" in form of skulls, 364
Watch-cases, pinchbeck, 316
" " 18 cent., 313
" -chains, hair, 331
" -keys, 18 cent., 310, 322-3
Waterton, Edmund, 71, 149 n., 264
" collection. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum
Way, Albert, 257
Wedgwood, 315, 319, 321, 328, 330
Weimar, Picture Gallery, 261
Wells Cathedral, sculpture on, 128
Werner, J. H., 338
Westminster, 211, 268
" Abbey, 92, 102, 119, 141, 215
Whistles, pendent, 190, 193, 198, 250, 251
Wight, Isle of, 56, 57, 59, 60
Wild jewel, 218, 254
Wilde, W. R., 42 n.
William I, K. of England, 91
" III " 306
" Duke of Juliers, 250, 259
" St., of York, 141
" of Wykeham. _See_ Wykeham
Williams, John, 238, 257, 302
Wilson, H., 339
Wilton House, 116
Winchester Cathedral, 98, 148
Windsor Castle, 219, 224, 225, 249, 257, 292
Witham, 74
Wittislingen, 62
Woeiriot, Pierre, 201, 219, 234, 246, 263, 366
Wolfers, P., 339
Wolgemut, M., 189
Wolsey, T., Cardinal, 208
Wootton-under-Edge (Gloucestershire), 116
Worley, Nicolas, 208
Wreaths, Byzantine, 35
" Greek, 16
" medl., 105
Wright, T., 101
Wykeham, William of, Bishop of Winchester, 96-8, 142, 149
Yecla, 9
York Minster, 138
" " shrine of the head of St. William, 141
Zerrenden, F., 339
_Zona_, 93
Zucchero, F., 253, 352, 353
Zundt, Mathias, 194
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