CHAPTER I

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CAMPAIGNING IN

CUBA

BY

GEORGE KENNAN

AUTHOR OF "SIBERIA AND THE EXILE SYSTEM"

NEW YORK

THE CENTURY CO.

1899

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. STARTING FOR THE FIELD 1

II. UNDER THE RED CROSS 10

III. ON THE EDGE OF WAR 23

IV. WAR CORRESPONDENTS AND DESPATCH-BOATS 35

V. OFF FOR SANTIAGO 44

VI. THE CUBAN COAST 53

VII. THE FIGHT AT GUANTANAMO 65

VIII. THE LANDING AND ADVANCE OF THE ARMY 76

IX. A WALK TO THE FRONT 88

X. SIBONEY ON THE EVE OF BATTLE 104

XI. THE BATTLES OF CANEY AND SAN JUAN 116

XII. THE FIELD-HOSPITAL 130

XIII. SIBONEY DURING THE ARMISTICE 150

XIV. ENTERING SANTIAGO HARBOR 164

XV. THE CAPTURED CITY 171

XVI. THE FEEDING OF THE HUNGRY 182

XVII. MORRO CASTLE 192

XVIII. FEVER IN THE ARMY 213

XIX. THE SANTIAGO CAMPAIGN 222

XX. THE SANTIAGO CAMPAIGN (_Continued_) 237

XXI. THE SANTIAGO CAMPAIGN (_Concluded_) 256

CAMPAIGNING IN CUBA

CHAPTER I

STARTING FOR THE FIELD

War broke out between the United States and Spain on April 21, 1898. A

week or ten days later I was asked by the editors of the "Outlook" of

New York to go to Cuba with Miss Clara Barton, on the Red Cross steamer

_State of Texas_, and report the war and the work of the Red Cross for

that periodical. After a hasty conference with the editorial and

business staffs of the paper I was to represent, I accepted the

proposition, and on May 5 left Washington for Key West, where the _State

of Texas_ was awaiting orders from the Navy Department. The army of

invasion, under command of General Shafter, was then assembling at

Tampa, and it was expected that a hostile movement to some point on the

Cuban coast would be made before the end of the month.

I reached Tampa on the evening of Friday, May 6. The Pullman cars of the

Florida express, at that time, ran through the city of Tampa and across

the river into the spacious grounds of the beautiful Tampa Bay Hotel,

which, after closing for the regular winter season, had been compelled

to reopen its doors--partly to accommodate the large number of officers

and war correspondents who had assembled there with their wives and

friends, and partly to serve as headquarters for the army of Cuban

invasion.

It was a warm, clear Southern night when we arrived, and the scene

presented by the hotel and its environment, as we stepped out of the

train, was one of unexpected brilliancy and beauty. A nearly full moon

was just rising over the trees on the eastern side of the hotel park,

touching with silver the drifts of white blossoms on dark masses of

oleander-trees in the foreground, and flooding with soft yellow light

the domes, Moorish arches, and long facade of the whole immense

building. Two regimental bands were playing waltzes and patriotic airs

under a long row of incandescent lights on the broad veranda;

fine-looking, sunbrowned men, in all the varied uniforms of army and

navy, were gathered in groups here and there, smoking, talking, or

listening to the music; the rotunda was crowded with officers, war

correspondents, and gaily attired ladies, and the impression made upon a

newcomer, as he alighted from the train, was that of a brilliant

military ball at a fashionable seaside summer resort. Of the serious and

tragic side of war there was hardly a suggestion.

On the morning after our arrival I took a carriage and drove around the

city and out to the camp, which was situated about a mile and a half

from the hotel on the other side of the river. In the city itself I was

unpleasantly disappointed. The showy architecture, beautiful grounds,

semi-tropical foliage, and brilliant flowers of the Tampa Bay Hotel

raise expectations which the town across the river does not fulfil. It

is a huddled collection of generally insignificant buildings standing in

an arid desert of sand, and to me it suggested the city of

Semipalatinsk--a wretched, verdure-less town in southern Siberia,

colloquially known to Russian army officers as "the Devil's Sand-box."

Thriving and prosperous Tampa may be, but attractive or pleasing it

certainly is not.

As soon as I got away, however, from the hotel and into the streets of

the town, I saw at almost every step suggestions of the serious and

practical side, if not the tragic side, of war. Long trains of four-mule

wagons loaded with provisions, camp equipage, and lumber moved slowly

through the soft, deep sand of the unpaved streets in the direction of

the encampment; the sidewalks were thronged with picturesquely dressed

Cuban volunteers from the town, sailors from the troop-ships, soldiers

from the camp, and war correspondents from everywhere; mounted orderlies

went tearing back and forth with despatches to or from the army

headquarters in the Tampa Bay Hotel; Cuban and American flags were

displayed in front of every restaurant, hotel, and Cuban cigar-shop, and

floated from the roofs or windows of many private houses; and now and

then I met, coming out of a drug-store, an army surgeon or hospital

steward whose left arm bore the red cross of the Geneva Convention.

The army that was destined to begin the invasion of Cuba consisted, at

that time, of ten or twelve thousand men, all regulars, and included an

adequate force of cavalry and ten fine batteries of field-artillery. It

was encamped in an extensive forest of large but scattered pine-trees,

about a mile from the town, and seemed already to have made itself very

much at home in its new environment.

The first thing that struck me in going through the camp was its

businesslike aspect. It did not suggest a big picnic, nor an encampment

of militia for annual summer drill. It was manifestly a camp of

veterans; and although its dirty, weather-beaten tents were pitched here

and there without any attempt at regularity of arrangement, and its camp

equipage, cooking-utensils, and weapons were piled or stacked between

the tents in a somewhat disorderly fashion, as if thrown about at

random, I could see that the irregularity and disorder were only

apparent, and were really the irregularity and disorder of knowledge and

experience gained by long and varied service in the field. I did not

need the inscriptions--"Fort Reno" and "Fort Sill"--on the army wagons

to assure me that these were veteran troops from the Plains, to whom

campaigning was not a new thing.

As we drove up to the camp, smoke was rising lazily into the warm summer

air from a dozen fires in different parts of the grounds; company cooks

were putting the knives, forks, and dishes that they had just washed

into improvised cup-boards made by nailing boxes and tomato-crates

against the trees; officers in fatigue-uniform were sitting in

camp-chairs, here and there, reading the latest New York papers; and

thousands of soldiers, both inside and outside the sentry-lines, were

standing in groups discussing the naval fight off Manila, lounging and

smoking on the ground in the shade of the army wagons, playing hand-ball

to pass away the time, or swarming around a big board shanty, just

outside the lines, which called itself "NOAH'S ARK" and announced in big

letters its readiness to dispense cooling drinks to all comers at a

reasonable price.

The troops in all branches of the army at Tampa impressed me very

favorably. The soldiers were generally stalwart, sunburnt,

resolute-looking men, twenty-five to thirty-five years of age, who

seemed to be in perfect physical condition, and who looked as if they

had already seen hard service and were ready and anxious for more. In

field-artillery the force was particularly strong, and our officers in

Tampa based their confident expectation of victory largely upon the

anticipated work of the ten batteries of fine, modern field-guns which

General Shafter then intended to take with him. Owing to lack of

transportation facilities, however, or for some other reason to me

unknown, six of these batteries were left in Tampa when the army sailed

for Santiago, and the need of them was severely felt, a few weeks later,

at Caney and San Juan.

Upon my return from the camp I called upon General Shafter, presented my

letter of introduction from the President, and said I wished to consult

him briefly with regard to the future work of the American National Red

Cross. He received me cordially, said that our organization would soon

have a great and important work to do in Cuba in caring for the

destitute and starving reconcentrados, and that he would gladly afford

us all possible facilities and protection. The Red Cross corps of the

army medical department, he said, would be fully competent to take care

of all the sick and wounded soldiers in the field; but there would be

ample room for our supplementary work in relieving the distress of the

starving Cuban peasants, who would undoubtedly seek refuge within our

lines as soon as we should establish ourselves on the island. He

deprecated and disapproved of any attempt on the part of the Red Cross

to land supplies for the reconcentrados under a flag of truce in advance

of the army of invasion and without its protection. "The Spanish

authorities," he said, "under stress of starvation, would simply seize

your stores and use them for the maintenance of their own army. The best

thing for you to do is to go in with us and under our protection, and

relieve the distress of the reconcentrados as fast as we uncover it." I

said that I thought this was Miss Barton's intention, and that we had

fourteen hundred tons of food-stuffs and medical supplies on the steamer

_State of Texas_ at Key West, and were ready to move at an hour's

notice. With an understanding that Miss Barton should be notified as

soon as the army of invasion embarked, I bade the general good-by and

returned to the hotel.

In an interview that I had on the following day with Colonel Babcock,

General Shafter's adjutant-general, I was informed, confidentially, that

the army was destined for "eastern Cuba." Small parties, Colonel Babcock

said, would be landed at various points on the coast east and west of

Havana, for the purpose of communicating with the insurgents and

supplying them with arms and ammunition; but the main attack would be

made at the eastern end of the island. He did not specifically mention

Santiago by name, because Cervera's fleet, at that time, had not taken

refuge there; but inasmuch as Santiago was the most important place in

eastern Cuba, and had a deep and sheltered harbor, I inferred that it

would be made the objective point of the contemplated attack. The

Secretary of War, in his reply to the questions of the Investigating

Commission, says that the movement against Santiago, as then planned,

was to be a mere "reconnaissance in force, to ascertain the strength of

the enemy in different locations in eastern Cuba"; but Colonel Babcock

certainly gave me to understand that the attack was to be a serious one,

and that it would be made with the whole strength of General Shafter's

command. The matter is of no particular importance now, except in so far

as the information given me by Colonel Babcock indicates the views and

intentions of the War Department two weeks before Admiral Cervera's

fleet took refuge in Santiago harbor.

I left Port Tampa for Key West on the Plant-line steamer _Mascotte_ at

half-past ten o'clock Saturday evening, May 7. The long, narrow, and

rather sinuous channel out of Tampa Bay was marked by a line of buoys

and skeleton wooden frames resting on driven spiles; but there were no

lights for the guidance of the mariner, except one at the outer

entrance, ten or twelve miles from the port; and if the _Mascotte_ had

not been provided with a powerful search-light of her own she would

hardly have been able to find her way to sea, as the night was cloudy

and the buoys were invisible. With the long, slender shaft of her

search-light, however, she probed the darkness ahead, as with a radiant

exploring finger, and picked up the buoys, one after another, with

unfailing certainty and precision. Every two or three minutes a floating

iron balloon, or a skeleton frame covered with sleeping aquatic birds,

would flash into the field of vision ahead, like one of Professor

Pepper's patent ghosts, stand out for a moment in brilliant white relief

against a background of impenetrable darkness, and then vanish with the

swiftness of summer lightning, as the electric beam left it to search

for another buoy farther away.

When I awoke the next morning we were out on the blue, tumbling,

foam-crested water of the Gulf, forty or fifty miles from the Florida

coast. All day Sunday we steamed slowly southward, seeing no vessels

except a Jamaica "fruiter," whose captain shouted to us, as he crossed

our bow, that he had been blown off his course in a recent gale, and

would like to know his position and distance. We should have reached Key

West at half-past two Sunday afternoon; but an accident which disabled

one of the _Mascotte's_ boilers greatly reduced her normal speed, so

that when I went to my state-room at eleven o'clock Sunday evening we

were still twenty or thirty miles from our destination.

Three hours later I was awakened by shouted orders, the tramping of

feet, and the rattling of heavy chain-cable on the forward deck, and,

dressing myself hastily, I went out to ascertain our situation. The moon

was hidden behind a dense bank of clouds, the breeze had fallen to a

nearly perfect calm, and the steamer was rolling and pitching gently on

a sea that appeared to have the color and consistency of greenish-gray

oil. Two hundred yards away, on the port bow, floated a white pyramidal

frame in the fierce glare of the ship's search-light, and from it, at

irregular intervals, came the warning toll of a heavy bell. It was the

bell-buoy at the entrance to Key West harbor, and far away on the

southeastern horizon appeared a faintly luminous nebula which marked the

position of Key West city. Under the war regulations then in force, no

vessels other than those belonging to the United States navy were

permitted to enter or leave the port of Key West between late evening

twilight and early dawn, and we were, therefore, forced to anchor off

the bell-buoy until 5 A. M. Just as day was breaking we got our anchor

on board and steamed in toward the town. The comparatively shallow water

of the bay, in the first gray light of dawn, had the peculiar opaque,

bluish-green color of a stream fed by an Alpine glacier; but as the

light increased it assumed a brilliant but delicate translucent green of

purer quality, contrasting finely with the scarlet flush in the east

which heralded the rising, but still hidden, sun. On our right, as we

entered the wide, spacious harbor, were two or three flat-topped,

table-like islands, or "keys," which, in general outline and appearance,

suggested dark mesas of foliage floating in a tropical ocean of pale

chrysolite-green. Directly ahead was the city of Key West--a long, low,

curving silhouette of roofs, spires, masts, lighthouses, cocoanut-palms,

and Australian pines, delicately outlined in black against the scarlet

arch of the dawn, "like a ragged line of Arabic etched on the blade of a

Turkish simitar." At the extreme western end of this long, ragged

silhouette rose the massive walls of Fort Taylor, with its double tier

of antiquated embrasures; and on the left of it, as the distance

lessened and the light increased, I could distinguish the cream-colored

front of the Marine Hospital, the slender white shaft of the lighthouse,

the red pyramidal roof of the Government Building, and the pale-yellow

walls and cupola of the Key West Hotel--all interspersed with graceful

leaning palms, or thrown into effective relief against dark masses of

feathery Australian pine.

Along the water-front, for a distance of half a mile, extended an almost

unbroken line of steamers, barks, schooners, and brigantines,

discharging or receiving cargo, while out on the pale-green, translucent

surface of the harbor were scattered a dozen or more war-ships of the

North Atlantic Squadron, ranging in size from the huge, double-turreted

monitor _Puritan_ to the diminutive but dangerous-looking torpedo-boat

_Dupont_. All were in their war-paint of dirty leaden gray, which,

although it might add to their effectiveness, certainly did not seem to

me to improve their appearance as component parts of an otherwise

beautiful marine picture. Beyond the war-ships and nearer to the eastern

end of the island lay the captured Spanish prizes, including the big

black liners _Pedro_ and _Miguel Jover_, the snow-white _Argonauta_, the

brigantine _Frascito_, and a dozen or more fishing-schooners intercepted

by the blockading fleet while on their way back to Havana from the

Yucatan banks.

But none of these war-ships or prizes had, for me, the interest that

attached to a large black two-masted steamer of eighteen hundred tons,

which was lying at anchor off the government wharf, flying from her

mainmast-head a white flag emblazoned with the red Greek cross of the

Geneva Convention. It was the steamship _State of Texas_, of the Mallory

line, chartered by the American National Red Cross to carry to Cuba

supplies for the starving reconcentrados, and to serve as headquarters

for its president, Miss Clara Barton, and her staff of trained surgeons,

nurses, and field-officers.

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