might be deceiving us. The night had settled darker down upon us, so
that it was impossible to distinguish any object, however nigh. The
lightning had become more faint and rare. We heard the rustling of trees
and occasionally the barking of dogs, which last sound, however, soon
ceased, and we were in the midst of night and silence. My horse, either
from weariness or the badness of the road, frequently stumbled; whereupon
I dismounted, and leading him by the bridle, soon left my companion far
in the rear. I had proceeded in this manner a considerable way when a
circumstance occurred of a character well suited to the time and place.
I was again amidst trees and bushes, when the horse, stopping short,
nearly pulled me back. I know not how it was, but fear suddenly came
over me, which, though in darkness and in solitude, I had not felt
before. I was about to urge the animal forward, when I heard a noise at
my right hand, and listened attentively. It seemed to be that of a
person or persons forcing their way through branches and brushwood. It
soon ceased, and I heard feet on the road. It was the short, staggering
kind of tread of people carrying a very heavy substance, nearly too much
for their strength, and I thought I [heard] the hurried breathing of men
over-fatigued. There was a short pause in the middle of the road; then
the stamping recommenced until it reached the other side, when I again
heard a similar rustling amidst branches; it continued for some time, and
died gradually away.
I continued my road, musing on what had just occurred and forming
conjectures as to the cause. The lightning resumed its flashing, and I
saw that I was approaching tall black mountains--But I will omit further
particulars of this midnight journey.
'_Quien vive_,' roared a voice about an hour from this time, for I had at
last groped my way to Villafranca. It proceeded from the sentry at the
suburb, one of those singular half soldiers, half _guerillas_, called
Miguelets, who are in general employed by the Spanish Government to clear
the roads of robbers. I gave the usual answer '_Espana_,' and went up to
the place where he stood. After a little conversation, I sat down on a
stone, awaiting the arrival of Antonio, who was long in making his
appearance. On his arrival I asked him if any one had passed him on the
road, but he replied that he had seen nothing. The night, or rather
morning, was still very dark, though a small corner of the moon was
occasionally visible. On our enquiring the way to the gate, the Miguelet
directed us down a street to the left, which we followed. The street was
steep, we could see no gate, and our progress was soon stopped by houses
and wall. We knocked at the gates of two or three of these houses (in
the upper stories of which lights were burning) for the purpose of being
set right, but we were either disregarded or not heard. A horrid
squalling of cats from the tops of the houses and dark corners saluted
our ears, and I thought of the night-arrival of Don Quixote and his
squire at Tobosa, and their vain search amongst the deserted streets for
the palace of Dulcinea. At length we saw light and heard voices in a
cottage at the further side of a kind of ditch. Leading the horses over,
we called at the door, which was opened by an aged man, who appeared by
his dress to be a baker, as indeed he proved, which accounted for his
being up at so late an hour. On begging him to show us the way into the
town, he led us up a very narrow alley at the end of his cottage, saying
that he would likewise conduct us to the _posada_. The alley led
directly to what appeared to be the market-place, at a corner house of
which our guide stopped and knocked. After a long pause an upper window
was opened, and a female voice demanded who we were. The old man replied
that two travellers had arrived who were in need of lodging. 'I cannot
be disturbed at this time of night,' said the woman, 'they will be
wanting supper, and there is nothing in the house; they must go
elsewhere.' She was going to shut the window, but I cried that we wanted
no supper, but merely a resting-place for ourselves and horses, that we
had come that day from Astorga, and were dying with fatigue. 'Who is
that speaking?' cried the woman. 'Surely that is the voice of Gil, the
German clock-maker from Pontevedra. Welcome, old companion, you are come
at the right time, for my own is out of order. I am sorry I kept you
waiting, but I will admit you in a moment.'
The window was slammed to; presently light shone through the crevices if
the door, a key turned in the lock, and we were admitted.
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Sept. 11, 1837)
SAINT JAMES (SANTIAGO) OF COMPOSTELLA,
19_th_ _Aug._ [1837].
REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--I left Corunna about ten days since for this town,
travelling with the courier or weekly post, who was escorted by a strong
party of soldiers in consequence of the distracted state of the country.
Nothing particular worth relating occurred during the journey, which
occupied a day and a half, though the distance is barely ten leagues.
Santiago, or Saint James, is, as you are aware, the capital of Galicia,
and the residence of the Metropolitan. It is, or was, the most
celebrated resort for pilgrims in the whole world, with the exception of
Jerusalem, as it is said to contain the bones of Saint James the Elder,
the Child of the Thunder, who according to the legend of the Roman Church
first preached the Gospel in Spain. The cathedral, though built at
various periods and by no means uniform, is a majestic, venerable
edifice, in every respect calculated to excite awe and admiration; indeed
it is almost impossible to walk its long dusky aisles and hear the solemn
music and the noble chanting and inhale the incense of the mighty
censers, which are at times swung so high by machinery that they smite
the vaulted roof, whilst gigantic tapers glitter here and there amongst
the gloom from the shrine of many a saint, before which the worshippers
are kneeling, breathing forth their prayers and petitions for help, love,
and mercy, and entertain a doubt that we are treading the floor of a
house where God delighteth to dwell. Yet the Lord is distant from that
house. He heareth not, He seeth not: or, if He hear and see, it is with
anger. What availeth that solemn music, that noble chanting, that
incense of sweet savour? What availeth kneeling before that grand altar
of silver, surmounted by that figure with its silver hat and breastplate,
the emblem of one who, although an Apostle and Confessor, was at best an
unprofitable servant? What availeth hoping for remission of sin by
trusting in the merits of him who possessed none, or by paying homage to
others who were born and nurtured in sin, and who alone by the exercise
of a lively faith granted from above could hope to preserve themselves
from the wrath of the Almighty? Yet such acts and formalities constitute
what is termed religion at Compostella, where, perhaps, God and His will
are less known and respected than at Pekin or amid the wildernesses where
graze the coursers of the Mongol and the Mandchou. Perhaps there is no
part of Spain where the Romish religion is so cherished as throughout
Galicia. In no part of Spain are the precepts and ordinances of that
Church, especially fasting and confession, so strictly observed, and its
ministers regarded with so much respect and deference. The natural
conclusion therefore would be that, if the religion of Rome be the same
as that founded by Christ, the example of the Saviour is more closely
followed, and the savage and furious passions more bridled, bloodshed and
rapine less frequent, unchastity and intemperance less apparent, and the
minds of the people more enlightened and free from the mists of
superstition in Galicia than in other provinces.
What is the fact? Almost every road is teeming with banditti, who under
the name of Carlists plunder friend and foe, and to robbery join cruelty
so atrociously horrible that indignation at the crime is frequently lost
in wonder; for the Galician robbers are seldom satisfied with booty, and
unlike their brethren in other parts generally mutilate or assassinate
those who are so unfortunate as to fall in their hands; prostitution is
carried on to an enormous extent, and although loathsome concustant [sic]
diseases stare the stranger in the face in the street, in the
market-place, in the church, and at the fountain; 'Drunken as a Galician'
is a proverb; and superstitions forgotten, abandoned in the rest of
Spain, are clung to here with surprising pertinacity, the clergy exerting
themselves to uphold them by carrying on a very extensive sale in charms,
verifying the old saying, 'Witches are found where friars abound.'
An unhappy man, whilst collecting vipers amongst the hills, which he was
in the practice of selling to the apothecaries, was lately met near
Orense by some of these monsters. Having plundered and stripped him,
they tied his hands behind him and thrust his head into the sack, which
contained several of these horrible reptiles alive! They then fastened
the sack at the mouth round his neck, and having feasted their ears for a
time with his cries, they abandoned him to his fate. The poor wretch,
stung by the vipers in the face and eyes, presently became mad and ran
through several villages, till he fell dead.
I am now in the heart of this strange country and people. It has pleased
the Lord to bless my humble endeavours more than I had reason to expect;
since my arrival Santiago between thirty and forty copies of the New
Testament have been despatched. The bookseller of the place, Rey Romero,
a venerable man of seventy, very wealthy and respected, has taken up the
cause with an enthusiasm which doubtless emanates from on high, losing no
opportunity of recommending the work to those who enter his shop, which
is very splendid and commodious.
In many instances, when the peasants of the neighbourhood have come with
the intention of purchasing some of the foolish popular story-books of
Spain, he has persuaded them in lieu thereof to carry home Testaments,
assuring them that it was not only a better and more instructive, but
even a far more entertaining book than those they came in quest of. He
has taken a great fancy to me, and comes to visit me every evening, when
he accompanies me in my walks about the town and environs. Every one who
is aware how rare it is to meet with friendship and cordiality in Spain
will easily conceive my joy at finding such a coadjutor, and I have no
doubt that when I am absent he will exert himself as much, and I hope as
effectually, as now that I am present.
I leave Saint James to-morrow for Pontevedra and Vigo, carrying with me
some Testaments which I hope to dispose of, notwithstanding there are no
booksellers in those places. I shall then return to Corunna, either by
Compostella or by some other route. I trust the Lord will preserve me in
this journey as He has done in others. From Corunna I propose to travel
through the mountains to Oviedo in the Asturias, provided that town be
not speedily in the hands of the factious. By the time these lines reach
you, you will doubtless have heard of the irruption of a part of the
Pretender's hordes into Old Castile; they have carried everything before
them, and have sacked and taken possession of the city of Segovia,
distant only one day's march from Madrid. From the aspect of things I
should say that the miseries of this land, far from having reached their
climax, are but commencing. Yet let no one mourn for Egypt: she is but
paying the price of her sorceries and superstitions.
(UNSIGNED.)
_P.S._--At San Sebastian I shall need Davison's Turkish Grammar, which
you have in the Library. It will be of assistance to me in editing the
Basque St. Luke; the two languages are surprisingly connected.
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Oct. 9, 1837)
CORUNNA, _Sep._ 15, 1837.
REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--About ten days have elapsed since my return to
Corunna. I stated in my last letter, from Compostella, that it was my
intention to visit Pontevedra and Vigo, which I carried into effect. In
the first of these places I left, as I passed through, eight copies of
the New Testament in the hands of Senor Garcia, the public notary; three
days subsequent, on my return, I found that he had disposed of them, and
I have since sent him a fresh supply. He is a very zealous and exceeding
intelligent person, and I have no doubt will prove a highly useful agent
in Pontevedra and its beautiful neighbourhood, which is the garden of
Galicia. In Vigo I disposed of four Testaments, but was not so fortunate
as to find any person willing or calculated to undertake the charge
accepted by my friend in the former town.
Having reached Padron, in my journey back, I sent my servant and horses
forward to Saint James, and guided by a peasant, proceeded across the
country to Cape Finisterre, on whose rocky sides I so narrowly escaped
being shipwrecked last year. The distance was fifteen leagues, and the
route lay over wild mountains and valleys, where we suffered much from
fatigue and the heat of the sun. Arrived at Finisterre we were seized as
Carlist spies by the fishermen of the place, who determined at first on
shooting us, but at last contented themselves with conducting us
prisoners to Corcubion, where the _Alcalde_ of the district, after having
examined me and perused my passport, ordered me to be set at liberty, and
treated me with all manner of civility. By this journey I accomplished
what has long been one of the ardent wishes of my heart. I have carried
the Gospel to the extreme point of the old world, having left a Testament
in the hands of Antonio de Trava, an ancient mariner of Finisterre, who
took my part in a very friendly manner, and probably saved me from
experiencing much violence at the hands of his companions. Finisterre is
a place of wonders, which I hope at some future time to have the pleasure
of narrating; but at present I must speak of other matters. About one
hundred Testaments have been disposed of at Saint James of Compostella,
and there is at present a steady regular demand for them there which
inspires my heart with gratitude to the Almighty. Shortly previous to my
journey to Saint James, I despatched fifty copies to Lugo, where the Lord
vouchsafed me good success on a former occasion; this second supply being
almost exhausted, I have sent more. Only fifty-eight copies have
hitherto been sold at Corunna, for its inhabitants are far too much
engrossed by party politics to entertain much relish for heavenly manna.
I pray every night and morning that their eyes may be opened to their
eternal welfare.
Having now arranged matters in Galicia, as well as circumstances will
permit, I am about to quit this province, directing my course to Oviedo
in the Asturias. The way is long, and is infested by robbers and
factious; yet I go forth without much fear, hoping that the Lord will
prove my shield and guard as on other occasions. From Oviedo I proceed
to Santander, and from thence to the Basque provinces. Santander, being
a large and flourishing town, affords me a tolerable prospect of success,
and I have accordingly directed my agent at Madrid to despatch thither
forthwith 150 Testaments. The intermediate country is, however, in a
most distracted state, a great part of it being in the hands of the
Carlists; it is therefore probable that the books may never reach me, in
which event I shall have to apply to England. To the Basque provinces I
hope to carry Saint Luke in a Biscayan version, which I shall print at
Santander should an opportunity present itself.
No time must be lost in accomplishing all that is possible in Spain,
which in the course of a few months may be entirely in the hands of the
Pretender. I received the lines which you directed to the care of the
British consul at Corunna, and was thankful for them. Pray present my
kind remembrances to Mrs. Brandram and family, to Mr. Jowett, and Mr. and
Mrs. Browne.
I remain, Revd. and dear Sir, most truly yours,
G. BORROW.
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Oct. 17, 1837)
OVIEDO, ASTURIAS, 29 _Septr._ 1837.
REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--A day or two after the date of my last letter I
quitted Corunna and passed over the bay to Ferrol, where I left twenty
Testaments in the hands of a person who has just established a small
book-shop in that place. My servant Antonio went round by land with my
horse, the only one which I now possess, I having disposed {251} of the
largest of the two at Corunna, as I thought he was unable to support the
fatigue of a journey to Oviedo. At Ferrol I hired a horse and guide as
far as Ribadeo, a distance of twenty leagues, and somewhat less than half
the way to Oviedo. This journey was a terrible one; during the greatest
part of it we had to toil up and down mountain gorges and ravines, to
force our way through bushes and thickets, and to wade rivulets and
torrents swollen by the rain, which descended continually; our guide
proved perfectly ignorant of the country, and we had to bribe various
peasants to accompany us, though we incurred great risk by so doing of
being conducted to some den of thieves, and stripped and murdered. At
Ribadeo we procured a fresh horse and guide, and continued our way to
Oviedo, encountering still greater difficulties, the ground being still
more rugged and broken than that which we had previously passed over. My
own horse rolled down a precipice, and was much maimed, whilst that of
the guide was so worn out by the time he reached Gijon, four leagues from
Oviedo, that he foundered. As for Antonio and myself, we arrived
barefooted and bleeding, for I need scarcely say that during all this
journey, which amounted at least to 130 miles, we went on foot, the poor
horses being scarcely able to carry our books and baggage.
I am now by the blessing of the Almighty in the city of Oviedo, the
capital of the Asturias, although at an unpropitious season, for the bray
of war is at the gate, and there is the cry of the captains and the
shouting. Castile is at the present time in the hands of the Carlists,
who have captured and plundered Valladolid, in much the same manner as
they did Segovia. They are every day expected to march on this place, in
which case they will probably experience an obstinate resistance, very
excellent redoubts having been erected, and several of the convents
strongly fortified, especially that of Santa Clara de la Vega. All minds
here are at present in a state of feverish anxiety and suspense, more
especially as no intelligence at present arrives from Madrid, which by
the last accounts was beleaguered by the bands of Cabrera, Palillos, and
Orejita.--But I am interrupted, and I lay down my pen.
A strange adventure has just occurred to me. I am in the ancient town of
Oviedo, in a very large, scantily furnished and remote room of an ancient
_posada_, formerly a palace of the Counts of Santa Cruz. It is past ten
at night and the rain is descending in torrents. I ceased writing on
hearing numerous footsteps ascending the creaking stairs which lead to my
apartment--the door was flung open, and in walked nine men of tall
stature, marshalled by a little hunch-backed personage. They were all
muffled in the long cloaks of Spain, but I instantly knew by their
demeanour that they were _caballeros_, or gentlemen. They placed
themselves in a rank before the table where I was sitting; suddenly and
simultaneously they all flung back their cloaks, and I perceived that
every one bore a book in his hand, a book which I knew full well. After
a pause, which I was unable to break, for I sat lost in astonishment and
almost conceived myself to be visited by apparitions, the hunch-back
advancing somewhat before the rest said in soft silvery tones: '_Senor_
Cavalier, was it you who brought this book to the Asturias?' I now
supposed that they were the civil authorities of the place come to take
me into custody, and rising from my seat I exclaimed, 'It certainly was
I, and it is my glory to have done so. The book is the New Testament of
God; I wish it was in my power to bring a million.' 'I heartily wish so
too,' said the little personage with a sigh. 'Be under no apprehension,
Sir Cavalier; these gentlemen are my friends. We have just purchased
these books in the shop where you have placed them for sale, and have
taken the liberty of calling upon you in order to return you our thanks
for the treasure you have brought us. I hope you can furnish us with the
Old Testament also.' I replied that I was sorry to inform him that at
present it was entirely out of my power to comply with his wish, as I had
no Old Testaments in my possession, but did not despair of procuring some
speedily, from England. He then asked me a great many questions
concerning my Biblical travels in Spain, and my success, and the views
entertained by the Society in respect to Spain, adding that he hoped I
should pay particular attention to the Asturias, which he assured me was
the best ground in the Peninsula for our labour. After about
half-an-hour's conversation, he suddenly said in the English language,
'Good night, sir,' wrapped his cloak around him, and walked out as he had
come. His companions, who had hitherto not uttered a word, all repeated,
'Good night, sir,' and adjusting their cloaks followed him.
In order to explain this strange scene I must inform you that this
morning I visited the petty bookseller of the place, Longoria, and having
arranged preliminaries with him I sent him in the evening a package of
forty Testaments, all I possess, with some advertisements. At the time
he assured me that, though he was willing to undertake the sale, there
was nevertheless not a prospect of success, as a whole month had elapsed
since he had sold a book of any description, on account of the
uncertainty of the times and the poverty which pervaded the land. I
therefore sat down to write this letter much dispirited; this incident
has, however, admonished me not to be cast down when things look
gloomiest, as the hand of the Lord is generally then most busy: that men
may learn to perceive that whatever good is accomplished is not theirs
but His.
I shall quit Oviedo in a few days, but whither I shall now direct my
course I have not determined. It would be easy for me to reach
Santander, which is but thirty leagues [distant] and the road tolerably
free from accidents; but the state of affairs at Madrid gives me
considerable uneasiness, for I remember that Madrid is the depot of our
books, and I am apprehensive that in the revolutions and disturbances
which at present seem to threaten it, our whole stock may perish. True
it is that in order to reach Madrid I should have to pass through the
midst of the Carlist hordes, who would perhaps slay or make me prisoner;
but I am at present so much accustomed to perilous adventure, and have
hitherto experienced so many fortunate escapes, that the dangers which
infest the route would not deter me a moment from venturing. But there
is no certain intelligence, and Madrid may be in safety or on the brink
of falling; perhaps a few hours will inform us, when I shall at once
decide. My next letter will therefore be either from Santander or the
capital of Spain.
Oviedo is picturesquely situated between two mountains, Morcin and
Naranco; the former is very high and ragged, and during the greatest part
of the year is covered with snow; the sides of the latter are cultivated
and planted with vines. The town itself possesses nothing very
remarkable with the exception of the cathedral, the tower of which is
very high, and is perhaps the purest specimen of Gothic architecture at
present in existence. The interior of the edifice is neat and
appropriate but simple and unadorned, for I observed but one picture, the
Conversion of St. Paul. One of the chapels is a cemetery, in which rest
the bones of eleven Gothic kings, whose souls I trust in Christ have been
accepted.
I will now conclude in the words of Heber:
'From Greenland's icy mountains,
From India's coral strand--
Where Afric's sunny fountains
Roll down the yellow sand--
From many an ancient river,
From many a palmy plain,
They call us to deliver
Their land from error's chain.'
Most truly yours,
G. B.
_P.S._--Morning [Sept.] 30th, twenty Testaments have been sold.
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Nov. 13, 1837)
MADRID, _Novr._ 1, 1837.
CALLE SANTIAGO, No. 16 PISO 3RO.