steam-engine had been partially repaired at Lisbon, and our passage was
speedy and prosperous. I was happy to have reached the shores of Spain,
being eager to enter upon my allotted task. Cadiz is a small but
beautiful city, built upon a tongue of land and surrounded on all points
but one by the sea, which dashes up against its walls: the houses are
lofty, and of a dazzling whiteness; the streets are straight and narrow.
On my arrival I found great confusion reigning: numerous bands of the
factious were reported to be hovering in the neighbourhood, an attack was
not deemed improbable, and the place had just been declared in a state of
siege. I took up my abode at the French Hotel, in the Calle de la
Niveria, and was allotted a species of cock-loft or garret to sleep in,
for the house was filled with guests, being a place of much resort on
account of the excellent _table d'hote_ which is kept there. I dressed
myself and walked about the town. I entered several coffee houses: the
din of tongues in all was deafening; in one no less than six orators were
haranguing at the same time on the state of the country, and the
probability of an intervention on the part of England and France. As I
was listening to one of them he suddenly called upon me for my opinion,
as I was a foreigner, and seemingly just arrived. I replied that I could
not venture to guess what steps the two Governments would pursue under
the present circumstances, but thought that it would be as well if the
Spaniards would exert themselves more, and call less on Jupiter. As I
did not wish to engage in any political conversation I instantly quitted
the house, and sought those parts of the town where the lower classes
principally reside.
I entered into discourse with several individuals, but found them very
ignorant; none could write or read, and their ideas respecting religion
were anything but satisfactory, most professing a perfect indifference.
I afterwards went into a bookseller's shop, and made enquiries respecting
the demand for literature, which he informed me was small. I produced
our 24mo edition of the New Testament in Spanish, and asked the
bookseller whether he thought a book of that description would sell in
Cadiz. He said it was exceedingly beautiful, both in type and paper, but
it was a work not sought after, and very little known. I did not pursue
my enquiries in other shops, for I reflected that I was not very likely
to receive a very favourable opinion from booksellers respecting a
publication in which they had no interest. I had, moreover, but two or
three copies of the New Testament with me, and could not have supplied
them had they given me an order.
That night I became very unwell, and was apprehending that I had been
seized with the cholera, as the symptoms of my complaint were very
similar to those which accompany that disorder. I was for some time in
most acute pain, and terribly sick; I drank oil mixed with brandy, and in
some degree recovered, and for the two succeeding days was very feeble,
and able to undertake nothing. This attack was the cause of my not
writing to you from Cadiz as I had fully intended.
Early on the 24th I embarked for Seville in the small Spanish steamer the
_Betis_. The morning was wet, and the aspect of nature was enveloped in
a dense mist, which prevented my observing surrounding objects. After
proceeding about six leagues, we reached the north-eastern extremity of
the bay of Cadiz, and passed by Saint Lucar, an ancient town close by
where the Guadalquivir disembogues itself. The mist suddenly
disappeared, and the sun of Spain burst forth in full brilliancy,
enlivening all around, and particularly myself, who had till then been
lying on the deck in a dull melancholy stupor. We entered the mouth of
the 'Great River,' for that is the English translation of _Qued al
Kiber_, as the Moors designated the ancient Betis. We came to anchor for
a few minutes at a little village called Bonanca, at the extremity of the
first reach of the river, where we received several passengers, and again
proceeded. There is not much in the appearance of the Guadalquivir to
interest the traveller: the banks are low and destitute of trees, the
adjacent country is flat, and only in the distance is seen a range of
tall blue sierras. The water is turbid and muddy, and in colour closely
resembling the contents of a duck-pool; the average width of the stream
is from 150 to 200 yards. But it is impossible to move along this river
without remembering that it has borne the Roman, the Vandal, and the
Arab, and has been the witness of deeds which have resounded through the
world, and been the themes of immortal song. I repeated Latin verses and
fragments of old Spanish ballads, till we reached Seville at about nine
o'clock of a lovely moonlight night.
Before entering upon more important matter I will say a few words
respecting Seville and its curiosities. It contains 90,000 inhabitants,
and is situated on the left bank of the Guadalquivir, about eighteen
leagues from its mouth. It is surrounded with high Moorish walls, in a
good state of preservation, and built of such durable materials that it
is probable they will for many centuries bid defiance to the encroachment
of time. The most remarkable edifices are the cathedral and Alcazar or
palace of the Moorish kings. The tower of the former, called La Giralda,
belongs to the period of the Moors, and formed part of the Grand Mosque
of Seville. It is 220 ells in height, and is ascended not by stairs or
ladders, but by a vaulted pathway, in the manner of an inclined plane;
this path is by no means steep, so that a cavalier might ride up to the
top, a feat which Ferdinand the Seventh is said to have accomplished.
The view from the summit is very extensive, and on a fine clear day the
ridge called the Sierra de Ronda may be discovered though the distance is
upward of twenty-two leagues. The cathedral itself is a noble Gothic
structure, reputed the finest of the kind in Spain. In the chapels
allotted to the various saints are some of the most magnificent paintings
which Spanish art has produced. Here are to be seen the far-famed 'Angel
of the Guard,' by Murillo, his 'Saint Anthony at Devotion,' the celestial
spirits hovering around him, and Saint Thomas of Villa Nueva bestowing
Charity'; there are also some pictures by Soberan [? Zurbaran] of almost
inestimable value. Indeed, the cathedral at Seville is at the present
time far more rich in splendid paintings than at any former period,
possessing many very recently removed from some of the suppressed
convents, particularly from the Capuchin and Franciscan.
No one should visit Seville without paying particular attention to the
Alcazar. It is perhaps the most perfect specimen of Moorish architecture
which is at present to be found in Europe. It contains many splendid
halls, particularly that of the Ambassadors, so called, which is in every
respect more magnificent than the one of the same name within the
Alhambra of Granada. This palace was a favourite residence of Peter the
Cruel, who carefully repaired it, without altering its Moorish character
and appearance. It probably remains in much the same state as at the
time of his death.
On the right side of the river is a large suburb called Triana,
communicating with Seville by means of a bridge of boats; for there is no
permanent bridge across the Guadalquivir owing to the violent inundations
to which it is subject. This suburb is inhabited by the dregs of the
populace, and abounds with Gitanos or Gypsies. About a league and a half
to the north-west stands the village of Santo Ponce; at the foot and on
the side of some elevated ground higher up are to be seen vestiges of
ruined walls and edifices which once formed part of Italica, the
birth-place of Silius Italicus and Trajan, from which latter personage
Triana derives its name. One fine morning I walked thither, and having
ascended the hill I directed my course northward. I soon reached what
had once been bagnios, and a little farther on, in a kind of valley
between two gentle acclivities, the amphitheatre. This latter object is
by far the most considerable relic of ancient Italica; it is oval in its
form, with two gateways, fronting the east and west. On all sides are to
be seen the time-worn broken granite benches, from whence myriads of
human beings once gazed down on the area below, where the gladiator
shouted, and the lion and leopard yelled. All around beneath these
flights of benches are vaulted excavations, from whence the combatants,
part human, part bestial, darted forth by their several doors. I spent
several hours in this singular place, forcing my way through the wild
fennel and brushwood into the caverns, now the haunts of adders and other
reptiles, whose hissings I heard. Having sated my curiosity, I left the
ruins, and returning by another way reached a place where lay the carcase
of a horse half-devoured. Upon it with lustrous eyes stood an enormous
vulture, who, as I approached, slowly soared aloft till he alighted on
the eastern gate of the amphitheatre, from whence he uttered a hoarse
cry, as if in anger that I had disturbed him from his feast of carrion.
And now for another subject. You are doubtless anxious to know what are
my projects, and why I am not by this time further advanced on my way to
Madrid; know then that the way to Madrid is beset with more perils than
harassed Christian in his route to the Eternal Kingdom. Almost all
communication is at an end between this place and the capital, the
diligences and waggons have ceased running, even the bold _arrieros_ or
muleteers are at a stand-still; and the reason is that the rural portion
of Spain, especially this part, is in a state of complete disorganisation
and of blackest horror. The three fiends, famine, plunder, and murder,
are playing their ghastly revels unchecked; bands of miscreants captained
by such--what shall I call them?--as Orejita and Palillos, are prowling
about in every direction, and woe to those whom they meet. A few days
since they intercepted an unfortunate courier, and after scooping out his
eyes put him to death with most painful tortures, and mangled his body in
a way not to be mentioned. Moreover, the peasantry, who have been
repeatedly plundered by these fellows, and who have had their horses and
cattle taken from them by the Carlists, being reduced with their families
to nakedness and the extreme of hunger, seize in rage and desperation
upon every booty which comes within their reach, a circumstance which can
awaken but little surprise.
This terrible state of things, staring me in the face on my arrival at
Seville, made me pause. I thought that the tempest might in some degree
subside, but hitherto I have been disappointed. My mind is at present
made up. I shall depart for Madrid in two or three days, at all risks.
The distance is 300 miles. I shall hire, in the first place, horses, and
a guide, as far as Cordova (twenty-six leagues). I shall have to pay a
great price, it is true, but I have money, praised be God, who inspired
me with the idea of putting fifty sovereigns in my pocket when I left
London. I should otherwise be helpless. From Cordova I must endeavour
to obtain horses to Val de Penas (twenty leagues), which is half way to
Madrid. Were I at Val de Penas, I should feel comparatively at ease; for
from thence I know the road, having traversed it in my ways from Madrid
to Grenada; it moreover runs through La Mancha, which, though infested
with banditti, is plain open ground, and if I could obtain no guide or
horses, or had been plundered of my money, I might hope to make my way on
foot. But I am ignorant of the country between Seville and Cordova, and
from Cordova to Val de Penas. The route is through the dismal and savage
mountains of the Sierra Morena, where I should inevitably be bewildered,
and perhaps, if not murdered, fall a prey to the wolves. Were the whole
way known to me, I would leave my baggage here and dressed as a beggar or
Gypsy set out on foot; strange as this plan may sound in English ears, it
would be the safest course I could pursue. Should I perish in this
journey, keep the affair secret as long as possible from my dear mother,
and when it should be necessary to reveal it to her, do me the favour to
go to Norwich on purpose; should I reach Madrid, you will hear from me in
about five weeks, from the time you receive this. It would be of no
utility to write to you from Cordova; the letter would never reach you, I
hope this will.
Gomez had not hitherto paid a visit to Seville; when I arrived here, he
was said to be in the neighbourhood of Ronda. The city was under watch
and ward, several gates had been blocked up with masonry, trenches dug,
and redoubts erected, but I am convinced that the place would not have
held out six hours against a resolute assault. Gomez has proved himself
to be a most extraordinary man, and with his small army of Aragonese and
Basques has within the last four months made the tour of Spain; he has
very frequently been hemmed in with forces three times the number of his
own, in places whence escape seemed impossible, but he has always baffled
his enemies, whom he seems to laugh at. The most absurd accounts of
victories gained over him are continually issuing from the press at
Seville; the other day it was stated that his army had been utterly
defeated, himself killed, and that 1200 prisoners were on their way to
Seville. I saw these prisoners; instead of 1200 desperadoes, they
consisted of about twenty poor lame ragged wretches, many of them boys
from fourteen to sixteen years of age; they were evidently
camp-followers, who, unable to keep up with the army, had been picked up
straggling in the plains and amongst the hills. It now appears that no
battle had occurred, and that the death of Gomez was a fiction. The
grand defect of Gomez is not knowing how to take advantage of
circumstances; after his defeat of Lopez he might have marched to Madrid
and proclaimed Don Carlos there, and after sacking Cordova, he might have
captured Seville.
There are several booksellers' shops in Seville, in two of which I found
copies of the New Testament (our own 12mo edition of 1826); they had been
obtained from Gibraltar about two years since, during which time six
copies had been sold in one shop and four in the other. I have become
acquainted with an elderly person, a Genoese by birth, who, should we
succeed in bringing out an edition of the sacred volume at Madrid, may be
of service to us, as a colporteur in this place and the neighbourhood,
where he is well known. He has assured me of his willingness to
undertake the task, and, if required, to visit Cordova, Grenada, or any
part of Andalusia, town or country; he has been accustomed to
bookselling, and at one time he also brought some of our Testaments from
Gibraltar, all of which were however taken from him by the Custom House
officers with the exception of one copy, which he afterwards disposed of
to a lady for 30 _reals_ (6s. 6d.). Should the Bible Society be desirous
to circulate the book in the rural districts of Spain, they must be
prepared to make considerable sacrifices. In some of the towns,
especially the sea-ports, it is probable that many copies may be disposed
of, at a fair price; but can it be expected that amongst myriads, who are
in want of the common necessaries of life, who are without food, fuel or
clothing, and on whose wretched heads the horrors which civil war--and
such a civil war--have principally fallen, [men] can have money for
books? I am willing to visit every part of Spain, and to risk my life a
thousand times in laying God's Word before the people, but I can promise
no more. I have no extraordinary powers, indeed scarcely those allotted
to the average of humanity; God, it is true, can operate wonders by any
instrument, but we must bide His will.
I have had the good fortune to form the acquaintance of Mr. Wetherell, an
English gentleman, who has for many years been established in a very
important branch of business at Seville. He takes a warm interest in my
mission, and has frequently informed me that nothing will afford him
greater pleasure than to further the cause at this place and in the
neighbourhood; as he employs a vast number of individuals, I have little
doubt that he has the power, as he certainly has the will. He is a
virtuoso and possesses a singular collection of the ancient idols of
Mexico, which bear a surprising resemblance to those used by the
followers of the Buddhist superstition. In return for a translation of
an Arabic inscription which I made for him, he presented me with a copy
of the Cabalistic book Zohar, in the Rabbinical language and character,
which on the destruction of the Inquisition at Seville (1820) he obtained
from the library of that horrible tribunal.
Pray remember me to Mr. Jowett and Mr. Browne and my other friends. May
the Lord bless you, my dear Sir.
GEORGE BORROW.
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Jany. 6, 1837)
MADRID, _December_ 26_th_, 1836.
REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--I am just arrived at Madrid in safety. It has
pleased the Lord to protect me through the perils of a most dismal
journey. I reached Cordova in three days, attended by the old Italian
whom I mentioned in my last letter, for I could procure no other guide.
From Cordova I have ridden to Madrid in the company of a
_contrabandista_, or smuggler, whose horses I insured, and to whom I am
to give a gratuity of 42 dollars. We passed through the horrible pass of
Despena Perros in the Sierra Morena. Providence here manifested itself;
the day before, the banditti of the pass committed a dreadful robbery and
murder by which they sacked 40,000 _reals_; they were probably content
with their booty and did not interrupt me and my guide. We entered La
Mancha, where I expected to fall into the hands of Palillos and Orejita.
Providence again showed itself. It had been delicious weather; suddenly
the Lord breathed forth a frozen blast, the severity of which was almost
intolerable; no human being but ourselves ventured forth; we traversed
snow-covered plains and passed through villages and towns without seeing
an individual; the robbers kept close in their caves and hovels, but the
cold nearly killed me. We reached Aranjuez late on Christmas day, and I
got into the house of an Englishman, where I swallowed nearly two bottles
of brandy; it affected me no more than warm water. I am now at my
journey's end, and shall presently fall to work, for I must lose no time,
but profit by the present opportunity. All is quiet in Madrid and in the
neighbourhood; Gomez has returned to Biscay. If my letter be somewhat
incoherent, mind it not. I have just alighted, and the cold has still
the mastery of me; I shall send a journal in a few days which will be
more circumstantial. Write to my mother and say I am in safety. I shall
write myself to-morrow, I can no more now.
GEORGE BORROW.
To J. Tarn, Esq.
(_Endorsed_: recd. Jany. 9, 1837)
No. 16 PISO 3RO CALLE SAN IAGO,
MADRID, _Dec._ 31_st_, 1836.
MY DEAR SIR,--I forward the bill of my expenses from the moment of my
quitting London up to the time of my arrival at Madrid. When it is
considered that I have been nearly two months on this most perilous
journey, it will probably not be deemed extravagant; should that however
be the case, I shall be very willing to defray from my salary any
deduction which may be made. I beg leave to call your attention
particularly to the expense of horse-hire. I paid an ounce of gold for
two miserable animals from Seville to Cordova, I had to maintain them by
the way, to pay their expenses back, and to provide a guide. Neither of
the horses was worth what I paid for their hire; it is true their master
risked their being captured by the bands of robbers from whom I
providentially escaped. It will in future be much cheaper to purchase
horses. You will oblige me by informing me how my account with you
stands, for it seems I was indebted to you on departing. I have seen Mr.
O'Shea and Mr. Wood; with the assistance of the former gentleman I hope
to obtain the paper for the work at a considerable less price than that
stated in Mr. W.'s estimate, as Mr. O'Shea is connected with the
paper-mills of Catalonia. I shall write to Mr. Brandram in a few days
and in the meanwhile remain, etc.,
G. BORROW.
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Jany. 24, 1837)
_Jany._ 14, 1837, MADRID.
CALLE SAN IAGO No. 16, PISO 3RO.
REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--Immediately on my arrival at Madrid, which occurred
on the 26th of last month, I despatched letters to yourself and Mr. Tarn,
in that to Mr. T. was enclosed an account of my expenses, both of which
letters I hope have arrived in safety. I now take up the pen to acquaint
you with what I have done since my arrival, and what I, with the Lord's
assistance, purpose doing.
My first care was to wait on my excellent friend, Mr. Villiers, who
received me with his usual kindness. I asked him if it were his opinion
that I might venture to commence printing the Scriptures without an
application to the present Government, as the law is doubtful on the
point. His reply was satisfactory: 'You obtained the permission of the
Government of Isturitz,' said he, 'which was a much less liberal one than
the present; I am a witness to the promise made to you by the former
Ministers, which I consider sufficient; you had best commence and
complete the work as soon as possible, without any fresh application, and
should any one attempt to interrupt you, you have only to come to me,
whom you may command at any time.'--I went away with a light heart.
I next visited Mr. O'Shea, who was very glad to see me again, and assured
me that he took the greatest interest in my undertaking, and should be
happy to further it to the utmost of his power. I knew that he had been
connected with the paper-manufactories of the south, and a thought struck
me. You will remember that I brought over specimens of paper from thirty
to eighty _reals_ per ream, and that I was authorised to purchase 600
{197} reams of paper at 60 _reals_ per ream. I asked Mr. O'Shea if he
did not think that, through his connections, he could procure me such
paper as I wanted at a much cheaper rate than it was possible for me to
obtain it; he said he would make enquiries. I returned in a few days: he
had performed more than I expected, and he showed me paper at 45 _reals_,
better than what I could have purchased at 70, likewise some very good at
37. I hesitated for some time between these two specimens; I at length,
however, determined to purchase that at 45 _reals_. I am therefore able
to communicate that in paper alone 9000 _reals_ will have been saved to
the funds of the Society, and at the same time a superior article have
been procured.
I found that during my absence from Madrid Mr. Wood had quitted Mr.
Borrego, and had accepted a situation in another printing establishment;
but as Mr. Borrego is in possession of the only English press at Madrid,
is moreover an intimate friend of Mr. O'Shea, and above all enjoys the
good opinion of Mr. Villiers who interests himself in his welfare, I am
determined to entrust the printing to him. Mr. Borrego has agreed to
make a reduction of 10 _reals_ per sheet in his estimate, which I
consider very liberal conduct, as the former charge, considering the rate
of printing at Madrid, was by no means high. We have resolved to print
the work precisely the same in shape and size as the copy entrusted to my
charge, except that we shall substitute single for double columns.
I shall look over each sheet of the work myself, but in order to bring
out as correct an edition as possible I have engaged the literary
assistance of Dr. Usoz, the gentleman who some time since addressed a
letter to the Society, in which he expressed a wish to become a member.
He is one of the best Castilian scholars in Madrid, and, as he feels zeal
in the cause, will, I have no doubt, prove eminently useful. Any
remuneration for his labour he will leave to the consideration of the
Bible Society and myself.
We shall commence printing within a few days, and I expect to have the
work ready within ten weeks.