necks, containing charms, which they said prevented the witches having
power to harm them. The belief in witchcraft is very prevalent amongst
the peasantry of the Alemtejo, and I believe of other provinces of
Portugal. This is one of the relics of the monkish system, the aim of
which in all countries where it has existed, or does exist, seems to be
to besot the minds of the people that they may be the more easily
plundered and misled. The monks of the Greek and Syriac Churches
likewise deal in this kind of ware, which they know to be poison, but
which, as it brings them a price and fosters delusion by which they are
maintained in luxury and idleness, they would rather vend than the
wholesome drug.
The Sunday morning was fine, and the plain before the church of the
Convent of San Francisco was thronged with people going to mass or
returning. After having performed my morning devotions and breakfasted,
I went down to the kitchen. The fine girl Geronima was seated by the
fire. I asked if she had heard mass; she replied, 'No,' and that she did
not intend to hear it. Upon my inquiring her motive for absenting
herself, she replied that, since the friars had been expelled from their
churches and convents, she had ceased to attend mass or to confess
herself, for that the Government priests had no spiritual power, and
consequently she never troubled them. She said the friars were holy men
and charitable; for that every morning those of the convent over the way
had fed forty poor persons with the remains of their meals of the
preceding day, but that now these people were allowed to starve. I
replied that the friars who had lived upon the dainties of the land could
well afford to bestow a few bones on the poor, and that their doing so
was not the effect of charity, but merely a part of their artful policy,
by which they hoped to secure to themselves friends in time of need. The
girl then said that as it was Sunday I should perhaps like to see some of
her books, and without waiting for a reply she produced them. They
consisted principally of popular stories and lives and miracles of
saints, but amongst them was a translation of Volney's _Ruins of
Empires_. I inquired how she became possessed of this book; she said
that a young man, a great Constitutionalist, had given it her some months
since and had pressed her much to read it, telling her that it was the
best book in the world. Whereupon I told her that the author of the book
in question was an emissary of Satan and an enemy of Jesus Christ and the
souls of mankind; that he had written it with the sole view of bringing
all religion into contempt, and that he had inculcated therein the
doctrine that there was no future state nor rewards for the righteous nor
punishments for the wicked. She made no reply, but going into another
room, returned with her apron full of dry brushwood and faggot; all of
this she piled upon the fire, and produced a bright blaze. She then took
the book from my hand, and placed it upon the flaming pile; then sitting
down, took her rosary out of her pocket, and told her beads till the
volume was consumed. This was an _Auto-da-fe_, in the true sense of the
word.
On the Monday and Tuesday I paid my usual visits to the fountain, and
likewise rode about the neighbourhood for the purpose of circulating
tracts. I dropped a great many in the favourite walks of the people of
Evora, as I felt rather dubious of their accepting them had I proffered
them with my own hands; whereas if they found them on the ground, I
thought that curiosity might induce them to pick them up and examine
them. I likewise on the Tuesday evening paid a farewell visit to my
friend Don Azveto, as it was my intention to leave Evora on the Thursday
following; in which view I had engaged a cabriolet of a man who informed
me that he had served as a soldier in the _Grande Armee_ of Napoleon, and
had been present throughout the Russian campaign. He looked the image of
a drunkard; his face was covered with carbuncles, and his breath
impregnated with the fumes of strong waters. He wished much to converse
with me in French, in the speaking of which language, it seems, he prided
himself much; but I refused, and told him to speak the language of the
country, or I would hold no discourse with him.
Wednesday was stormy, with occasional rain. On coming down I found that
my friend from Palmella had departed, but several _contrabandistas_ had
arrived from Spain. They were mostly fine fellows, and, unlike the two I
had seen the previous week, who were of much lower degree, were chatty
and communicative; they spoke their native language and no other, and
seemed to hold Portuguese in great contempt; their magnificent Spanish
tones were heard to great advantage amidst the shrill chirping dialect of
Portugal. I was soon in deep conversation with them, and was much
pleased to find that all of them could read. I presented the eldest of
them, a man of about fifty years of age, with a tract in Spanish. He
examined it for some time with great attention; he then rose from his
seat, and going into the middle of the apartment, began reading it aloud,
slowly and emphatically; his companions gathered round him, and every now
and then expressed their satisfaction at what they heard. The reader
occasionally called upon me to explain particular passages which, as they
referred to Scripture, he did not exactly understand, for not one of the
party had ever seen either the Old or New Testament. He continued
reading for nearly an hour until he had finished the tract, and at its
conclusion the whole party were clamorous for similar ones, with which I
was happy to be able to supply them. Most of them spoke of priestcraft
and the monks with the utmost abhorrence, and said that they should
prefer death to again submitting to the yoke which had formerly galled
their necks. I questioned them very particularly respecting the opinion
of their neighbours and acquaintances on this point, and they assured me
that in their part of the Spanish frontier all were of the same mind, and
that they cared as little for the Pope and his monks as they did for Don
Carlos, for the latter was a dwarf (_chicotito_) and a tyrant, and the
others were plunderers and robbers. I told them that they must beware of
confounding religion with priestcraft, and that in their abhorrence of
the latter they must not forget that there is a God and a Christ, to whom
they must look for salvation, and whose word it was incumbent upon them
to study on every occasion; whereupon they all expressed a devout belief
in Christ and the Virgin.
These men, though in many respects far more enlightened than the
surrounding peasantry, were in others quite as much in the dark; they
believed in witchcraft and in the efficacy of particular charms. The
night was very stormy, and about nine we heard a galloping towards the
door, and then a loud knocking; it was opened, and in rushed a
wild-looking man mounted upon a donkey. He wore a jerkin of sheepskin,
called in Spanish _zamarras_, with breeches of the same as far down as
his knee; his legs were bare. Around his _sombrero_, or shadowy hat, was
tied a large quantity of the herb called in English rosemary, in Spanish
_romero_, and in the rustic language of Portugal _ellecrin_, which last
is a word of Scandinavian origin, and properly signifies the elfin plant.
[It was probably] carried into the south by the Vandals or the Alani.
The [man seemed] frantic with terror, and said that the witches had been
pursuing him, and hovering over his head, for the last two leagues. He
came from the Spanish frontier with meal and other articles; he informed
us that his wife was following him and would soon arrive, and within a
quarter of an hour she made her appearance, dripping with rain, and also
mounted upon a donkey. I asked my friends the _contrabandistas_ why he
wore the rosemary in his hat, and they told me that it was good against
witches and the mischances of the road. I had no time to argue against
this superstition, for as the chaise was to be ready at five o'clock next
morning I wished to make the most of the few hours which I could devote
to rest.
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Feb. 15, 1836)
The following Translations into the Romanee, or language of the Spanish
Tchai, Tchabos, Gitanos, Callos, or Gypsies, were made by me at Badajoz
during the first two weeks of January 1836.
THE 15TH CHAP. OF THE BLESSED GOSPEL OF SAINT LUKE.
[Here follow thirty-two verses of the translation, followed by a version
of the Lord's Prayer.]
SPECIMENS OF THE HORRID CURSES IN USE AMONGST THE SPANISH GYPSIES.
[Here follow sixteen of these 'curses,' to each of which is added a
rendering in English.]
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Feb. 29th, 1836)
MADRID, CALLE DE LA ZARZA,
_Feby._ 13_th_, 1836.
The game is now in our own hands, and it is our fault if we do not win
it, for a little patience and a little prudence is all that is required.
I came to Madrid without a single letter of introduction, and without
knowing an individual there. I have now some powerful friends, and
through the kindness of Sir Geo. Villiers, the British Ambassador at the
Spanish Court, I have had an interview with that most singular man,
Mendizabal, whom it is as difficult to get nigh as it is to approach the
North Pole. I have obtained his promise that when matters are in some
degree settled in this country, he will allow us to commence our
operations; but the preposterous idea, which by some means or other he
has embraced, that we have been endeavouring to foment disturbances
amongst the slaves of Cuba, prevents his looking upon us with favourable
eyes.
I now write for orders; if you have received my letters and journals
(copious extracts from which you had better print), you will see how
successful I have been in the Alemtejo, as our books are now for sale at
Evora and Elvas, the two principal towns, and the Gospel of Christ has
been preached to many who were ignorant of it even by name; you will see
what I have been doing at Badajoz, especially amongst the Spanish
Gypsies, whose dialect of the Rommany I have so far mastered as to be
able to translate into it with tolerable ease. Now, until my friends
here and myself can claim the fulfilment of Mr. Mendizabal's promise, do
you wish me to go to Granada, or back to Badajoz, and finish my
translation of St. Luke into Rommany, with the assistance of the Gypsies
of those places, who are far more conversant with their native language
than their brethren in other parts of Spain; or shall I return to Lisbon
and exert all my interest towards the execution of the plan which I
communicated first to Mr. Wilby, and then to yourself, namely, attempting
to induce the Government to adopt the Scriptures in the schools which
they are about to establish? Since I have been at Madrid I have obtained
letters to individuals of great importance at Lisbon, and I know that Don
Jose d'Azveto will do anything to serve me within the limits of reason.
Therefore let the Committee be summoned, and a resolution forthwith
adopted as to my next course. I think all our negotiations in the
Peninsula may be brought to a successful termination in a few months;
then you must send over an agent, a plain man of business, to engage
colporteurs and to come to arrangements with booksellers, both in Spain
and in the provincial towns of Portugal, but let him not be a hesitater
and starter of needless doubts and difficulties; anything may be
accomplished with a little shrewdness, a little boldness, and a great
trust in God. I hope that my exertions have afforded satisfaction at
home, but if not, let me be allowed to state that it was not in my power
to accomplish more than I have. I have borne hunger and thirst, cold and
fatigue, I have exposed myself to danger from robbers, and was near
losing my life from the ruffian soldiery at Arrayolos, whose bullets so
narrowly missed me. I have been as economical as possible, though the
charges in Portugal for everything are enormous, and a stranger there is
like a ship on shore, a mark for plunder. In Spain the people are far
more honest, and the charges, though high, reasonable in comparison.
Before leaving Lisbon I drew on excellent Mr. Wilby for 75 pounds; of
this sum 12 pounds was remitted to Malaja, through which place I shall
probably pass on my return to Lisbon. I have still remaining by me money
sufficient for two months, I therefore need not enter into a detail of my
expenses. I now wait for a letter from you; and when you write, please
to remit to me a small letter of credit on some one at Madrid, or request
Mr. Wilby to do so, as he has correspondents here, and in that case
communicate my address to him. I give you below an abridgment of my
interview with Mr. Mendizabal. I think it will make you laugh. I have
the honour to remain, Revd. and dear Sir, etc.,
G. BORROW.
Interview with Mr. Mendizabal
At about 8 o'clock in the morning of the 7th inst. I went to the palace,
where Mr. Mendizabal resides. I informed the usher that I came from the
British Ambassador, whereupon I was shown into a room, and after waiting
about three hours I was admitted to the presence of the Prime Minister of
Spain. He was dressed in a morning gown and sat behind a table covered
with papers. He is a man of about five-and-forty, somewhat above the
middle height, with very handsome features, aquiline nose and large
sparkling eyes; his hair is partly grey. I presented him the letter with
which Sir Geo. Villiers had furnished me, and when he had read it, I said
that before entering upon the matter which more immediately brought me to
him, I begged leave to set him right upon a point relating to which he
was labouring under considerable error: Sir Geo. Villiers had informed me
that Mr. M. entertained an opinion that the Bible Society had been
endeavouring to exercise an undue influence over the minds of the slave
population of Cuba by means of their agents; but that I could assure him
with truth, that neither directly nor indirectly had they exerted or
attempted to exert any influence at all over any part of the inhabitants
of that island, as they had neither sent agents there, nor held any
communication with the residents. While I was saying this, he
interrupted me several times, insisting that it was so, and that he had
documents to prove it. I told him that it was probable he confounded the
Bible Society with some other institution for the propagation of
religion, perhaps with one of the missionary societies, more especially
one of those belonging to the United States, which might have sent
individuals to the island in question for the purpose of communicating
religious instruction to the slaves--but all I could say was to no avail;
he would have it that it was the British Bible Society who had despatched
missionaries to Cuba to incite the blacks to rise up against their
masters. The absurdity of this idea struck me so forcibly that it was
with difficulty I restrained myself from laughing outright. I at last
said that, whatever he might think to the contrary, the Committee of the
Bible Society were by no means of that turbulent and outrageous
disposition; that they were for the most part staid, quiet gentlemen, who
attended to their own affairs, and a little, and but a little to the
promulgation of Christ's Gospel, which, however, they too much respected
to endeavour to kindle a spirit of insurrection anywhere, as they all
know full well that it is the Word of God says that servants are to obey
their masters at all times and occasions. I then requested permission to
print the New Testament in Spanish at Madrid. He said he should not
grant it, for that the New Testament was a very dangerous book,
especially in disturbed times. I replied that I was not aware that the
holy book contained any passages sanctioning blood-shedding and violence,
but I rather thought that it abounded with precepts of an entirely
opposite tendency; but he still persisted that it was an improper book.
I must here observe that it was with the utmost difficulty I obtained an
opportunity of explaining myself, on account of the propensity which he
possesses of breaking in upon the discourse of the person who is
addressing him; and at last, in self-defence, I was myself obliged to
infringe the rules of conversation, and to hold on without paying any
attention to his remarks--not that I gained much by so doing, for he
plainly told me that he was an obstinate man, and that he never abandoned
his opinions. I certainly do not think him the most tractable of men,
but I am inclined to think that he is not ill-natured, as he preserved
his temper very well during the interview, and laughed heartily at two or
three of my remarks. At last he said: 'I will not give you permission
now: but let the war be concluded, let the factious be beaten, and the
case will be altered; come to me six months hence.' I then requested to
be allowed to introduce into Spain a few copies of the New Testament in
the Catalan dialect, as we had lately printed a most beautiful edition at
London, but he still said 'No, no,' and when I asked if he had any
objection to my calling again on the morrow and showing him a copy, he
made use of these remarkable words: 'I do not wish you should come, lest
you should convince me, and I do not wish to be convinced.'
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. April 2, 1836)
_Mar._ 22, 1836,
CALLE DE LA ZARZA, MADRID.
REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--I received your letter of the 8th inst., which gave
me much pleasure, as I understood from it that my humble efforts had
afforded satisfaction. I also received the two letters from St.
Petersburg which were written by a dear friend of that place, to whom I
shall trouble you to forward a letter as soon as I have an opportunity of
writing, which at present I have not, as my time is much occupied.
I have to communicate to you what will not fail to be interesting. The
Spanish press have taken up our affair, and I am at present engaged in
attempting to lay the foundation of a Bible Society at Madrid, to
accomplish which the editor of the influential newspaper, the _Espanol_,
has promised me his assistance. There has already appeared in that
journal a most brilliant article which gives the history of our Society,
and states the advantages which would result to Spain from the
establishment within its bosom of a society whose aim should be the
propagation of the Scripture, in the Spanish language, amongst the
population. Of this article I send extracts below, and shall probably,
when I have more time, send the whole. The person whom we are looking
forward to as a head of the projected institution is a certain Bishop,
advanced in years, a person of great piety and learning, who has himself
translated the New Testament in a manner, as I am informed, far superior
to that of any of his predecessors; but I have not as yet seen it, and
therefore cannot speak positively as to its merits. However, he is
disposed to print and circulate it, and if the translation be really an
excellent one it would not be unwise in us to patronise it, if by so
doing we could induce him to co-operate with us in our plans for
enlightening unhappy Spain. But more of this anon. I have little doubt
that the time is almost at hand when the cause of God will triumph in
this country, and I am exerting every means which I can devise in
humbleness of heart to help to bring about an event so desirable. I
intend to remain a few weeks longer at Madrid at all events, for the
present moment is too fraught with interest to allow me to quit it
immediately. As far as self is concerned I should rejoice to return
instantly to Lisbon, for I am not partial to Madrid, its climate, or
anything it can offer, if I except its unequalled gallery of pictures;
but I did not come hither to gratify self but as a messenger of the Word.
May I take the liberty of begging you to write a line to my dear and
revered friend Mr. Cunningham, informing him that I am in tolerable
health, and that I hope to write myself speedily. The three letters
which you say have not arrived were, I believe, destroyed by a servant
for the sake of the postage, but I shall send you parts of my journal to
supply the deficiency.
Extracts from the 'Espanol'
'The first founders of the Bible Societies (for by this name they were
known) immediately comprehended their philosophic and civilising mission,
and fulfilled the thought of its inventor. In a short period the circle
of their action expanded itself, and not content with making Great
Britain alone a participator of this salutary institution, they wished to
extend it to all countries, and therefore called to their assistance the
majority of the known languages. To all the quarters of the inhabited
world they sent at their own expense agents to traverse the countries and
discover the best means of disseminating the truths of the Bible, and to
discover manuscripts of the ancient versions. They did more: convinced
of the necessity of placing themselves above the miserable considerations
of sectarian spirit, they determined that the text should not be
accompanied by any species of note or commentary which might provoke the
discord which unhappily reigns among the different fractions of
Christianity, which separates more and more their views instead of
guiding them to the religious end which they propose.
'Thus the doctrine of the Nazarene might be studied with equal success by
the Greek schismatic and the Catholic Spaniard, by the sectary of Calvin
and the disciple of Luther: its seed might bless at one and the same time
the fruitful plains of Asia and the sterile sands of desert Arabia, the
burning soil of India and the icy land of the ferocious Esquimaux.
Antiquity knew no speedier means of conveying its ideas than the
harangues which the orators pronounced from the summit of the tribune,
amidst assemblies of thousands of citizens; but modern intelligence
wished to discover other means infinitely more efficacious, more active,
more rapid, more universal, and has invented the press. Thus it was that
in the preceding ages the warm and animated words of the missionary were
necessarily the only organ which Christianity had at command to proclaim
its principles; but scarcely did this invention come to second the
progress of modern civilisation, than it foresaw the future ally destined
to complete the intelligent and social labour which it had taken upon
itself.'
(After stating what has been accomplished by the B. F. B. Society, and
how many others have sprung up under her auspices in different lands, the
article continues:)
'Why should Spain which has explored the New World, which has generalised
inoculation in order to oppose the devastations of a horrid pest, which
has always distinguished herself by zeal in labouring in the cause of
humanity--why should she alone be destitute of Bible Societies? Why
should a nation eminently Catholic continue isolated from the rest of
Europe, without joining in the magnificent enterprise in which the latter
is so busily engaged?'
GEORGE BORROW.
(My best respects to Mr. Jowett.)
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. May 5, 1836)
MADRID, No. 3, CALLE DE LA ZARZA,
20 _April_ 1836
REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--I have received your letter of the 6th inst., in
which you request me to write to you a little more frequently, on the
ground that my letters are not destitute of interest; your request,
however, is not the principal reason which incites me to take up the pen
at the present moment. Though I hope that I shall be able to communicate
matter which will afford yourself and our friends at home subject for
some congratulation, my more immediate object is to inform you of my
situation, of which I am sure you have not the slightest conception.