Great Mother Earth--A dangerous meeting--A living statue--Here or
there?--An unrelished supper--A dreaded immigration--A glance into
the past--A rape which was not a rape--A noble task--Towards the
mountain--Tiger-shooting--The Sakais in town--Alloyed sweets--
Musical tastes--Hurrah for the free forest!
My gold mania was transient. My spirit was very soon liberated from its
thrall and I turned with alacrity to the study of a more practical and
satisfactory enterprise.
In that brief period of uncertainty I had somehow felt convinced that
fortune (if indeed fortune was reserved for me) would have to come to me
through the ground. But in what way?
I often accompanied the Sakais in their visits into the thick of the
forest where they were in the habit of going in search of poisons, and
sometimes I would even go by myself. During these excursions I tortured
my brain with the everlasting question of how to initiate a new line of
work and gain.
One day the forest itself answered my puzzling query!
There were extensive woods of rattan, and other magnificent reeds which
are called in England Indian and Malacca cane; there was resin oozing
copiously from the trunks of the trees. What more could be desired?
I began gently to make my Sakais comprehend how much I should like to
gather these products and transport them to where I might exchange them
for other articles that we were without. It was of no use to speak to
them of money because they had not the smallest idea of what it meant.
At first they responded roughly that they did not care anything at all
about the matter, for, as I before said, the Sakais from habit and an
innate spirit of independence will never hear of submitting themselves
to any regular, ordinate labour. Knowing, however, with whom I had to
deal, and divining what a great amount of patience would be necessary to
bring them round to my way of thinking, I began to distribute gifts,
especially tobacco, freely and frequently amongst them, only mentioning
my wish occasionally, as if by chance. And my prodigality had its
reward.
One day I saw them returning from the forest abundantly laden with the
products I wanted.
It was a good beginning and was followed up by a constant supply. I
stored up the bamboo and gum and when I had accumulated enough I went to
the coast to sell my merchandise coming back well provided with tobacco,
iron, coloured beads, matches, salt, rice padi and maize. These things I
dispensed amongst my friends and they, seeing the good result of their
fatigue in the form of articles which excited their cupidity, ended by
keeping me plentifully furnished with the goods in question.
* * * * *
The new branch of commerce, which I had started, required a good deal of
energy, but I let no grass grow under my feet and went frequently to
Tapah in order to open up a sale for my products.
It was on my return from one of these journeys that something happened
to me worth relating.
Only a few hours of daylight remained when I set out from Tapah for my
forest habitation. I was carrying with me six nice loaves and a piece of
venison that I had bought in town and I thought with keen appreciation
of the savoury supper I should have that night.
I hurried along as fast as possible in order to traverse the 2 miles of
highroad and the other of woodland track, which lay before me, ere night
fell. In spite of the 30 miles already done that day my legs continued
to serve me well and I walked rapidly on with a bent head, full of
thought.
At a sudden turning of the path I raised my eyes to scrutinize the way.
About 50 yards in front of me I saw a dark and confused mass slowly
moving. Thinking to meet with a party of coolies from a neighbouring
mine, who were perhaps going for provisions, I advanced for another 40
paces, then stopped short and was fixed to the spot. The formless mass
had taken the shape of nothing less than an enormous tiger!
There was no fear that step or gesture of mine would attract its
attention for at the sight I had become petrified, like Lot's wife! In
that atom of time, which seemed to me a century, I could not even think,
but across the deadened faculty of my mind flashed a warning I had
recently received from the Sakais: never make a movement in the presence
of a tiger, and never look it straight in the face.
[Illustration: Towards the mountains.
_p._ 52.]
The first part of this injunction was instinctively obeyed for I
remained there rooted to the ground, utterly unable to stir even if such
an imprudent idea had suggested itself. My senses were so paralyzed by
the unexpected encounter that I did not entirely realize my position and
had only a vague perception that when those fierce eyes once rested upon
me the end of the world would have come, as far as I was concerned.
Sideways I saw that the huge beast, which had been sniffing the ground,
to find out what animal had lately passed by, now raised its head and
looked slowly around with an indolent but suspicious air.
After a painful vibration, some of my muscles became rigid. The monster
cautiously advanced; it was certainly preparing to pounce upon me! I
could hardly resist the impulse of looking towards it. All my nerves
were quivering with anguish as if in a supreme protest against the
imminent slaughter. Already I felt the terrible creature's hot breath as
it opened wide its greedy jaws; already my trembling flesh felt the
fatal touch of its death-dealing claws--one instant--two....!
With a quick, irrepressible motion my eyes turned in its direction.
The tiger was leisurely crossing the path and disappeared into the
forest without taking even the least notice of me! Why, it was almost a
personal offence!
But although the blood began to flow once more through heart and brain,
and Life--which had been momentarily suspended--again ran through all my
being, filling the veins and relaxing muscles and nerves, I did not then
think of the slight offered me by the animal's indifference, for with
renewal of life had come an atrocious spasm of horror and of fear.
In those few seconds a drama, full of strange sensations, awful
impressions, and maddening effect had been enacted within me!
After the first moment of relief, and whilst I was still stretching and
rubbing my limbs, a serious problem presented itself for solution.
On entering the forest the tiger had gone the very way I had to go
myself. What had I better do? It was impossible for me to retrace my
steps, for my previous tiredness had increased to a singular degree
after my fright. It was equally impossible for me to think of stopping
where I was. And to penetrate into the forest following in the
creature's wake, would it not be like going to seek the ghastly end from
which I had just so narrowly escaped, thanks perhaps to the tiger's
defective sense of smell?
And yet, after having carefully pondered which course to take I was
obliged to make my decision in favour of the one that seemed the most
insensate of the three.
My cabin was not very far off. I should only have to quicken my pace, by
making a supreme effort, in order to arrive before it got dark.
And the tiger? But might I not have met a dozen of them on my road from
Tapah? And besides, who could say that the one I had seen was really
gone towards my home? It would indeed have proved a curious
predilection, especially after the affront just received!
So armed with these subtle reasonings, with which I sought to persuade
myself, I left the tragical spot where, according to the brief agony of
my feelings and the likelihood of procedure, I had been torn to pieces
and eaten by a wild beast, and I continued my homeward journey.
How the faintest sound startled me! A falling leaf; a blade of grass
moved by an insect; a snake or a lizard gliding out of my path; the
squeal of a monkey; the fluttering of a bird's wings as it flew up to
its perch, all subjected me to spasmodic thrills.
I always had in my sight that dreadful beast with gaping mouth, and
cruelly glittering eyes. The horrible vision gave new vigour to my body,
extraordinary suppleness to my legs and--wings to my feet.
Kind reader, who knows how many times in your sitting-room or perhaps in
somebody else's even dearer to you--_honi soit qui mal y pense_!--you
have found yourself in front of a tiger, leopard or panther whose
brindled and glossy skin you have admired; who knows how many times you
have absently played with its head, still ferocious-looking, in spite of
its glass eyes and red cloth tongue; who knows how often you have toyed
with its fangs and claws whilst you were persuing a pleasant thought or
inebriating your spirit with the soft tones of a certain voice!
Well, have you ever tried to imagine what emotions you would experience
if quite unexpectedly those glassy eyes should become animated; if that
ugly mouth should open wider; if those white fangs should gleam with
life; if those splendid claws should be stretched out in the act of
lacerating you: if that magnificent skin should once more be
incorporated and rise up to face you?
I confess the truth when I say, that the dainty supper I had brought
with me from Tapah, lost its flavour for me that evening.
* * * * *
A report of my flourishing trade and the news that gold was to be found
at the bottom of the little river which flowed past my humble dwelling
soon spread outside the Sakai region. The consequence was quite an
invasion of our tranquil village.
This immigration greatly alarmed the poor Indigenes who cannot easily
forget how they were once treated by those not of their own race.
They still remembered with terror how the strangers had plundered their
villages, carrying off everything they could lay their hands upon, even
their young men and women to serve as slaves and concubines.
The majority of these poor victims, torn from the unlimited freedom of
the jungle, unused to any sort of work that was not voluntary, and
faithful to their traditions and superstitions did not long survive
their separation from kin and tribe. The others, who managed to adapt
themselves to their new conditions, as a matter of course, had their
primitive simplicity corrupted, and little by little learnt the vices
and habits of their masters. For this they were considered by their
brethren as inferior beings and were looked upon with grave suspicion,
when, taking advantage of the first occasion that offered itself, they
fled back to the forest. Although by their return to their own people
they foreswore their past moral and material bondage they could not help
bringing with them some of the depravity they had seen, or endured, in
their exile which clashed with the customs and sensibilities of the pure
type of May Darats, remarkable for their sincerity and integrity.
In this way, by degrees, the original Sakai race diminished whilst new
clans sprang up around them, formed of those who had been, and continued
to be, in contact with comparatively civilized people, who knew their
languages and their craftiness, notwithstanding which they frequently
became their dupes under the show of good-feeling and cordiality.
The British Protectorate came as a blessing to the Sakais because it
officially abolished slavery and shortened their neighbours' talons,
that had grown a little too long.
But in spite of the vigilance exercised by their white protectors the
others still found the means of depredating and imposing upon these good
but ignorant creatures. Instead of devastating their rude homes and
arbitrarily taking possession of everyone and everything they pleased,
they soon established another system for achieving their end.
They supplied them with goods of the very worst quality, charging them
at the highest prices, and as these consisted principally of tobacco,
salt, iron, _sirih_ and pieces of calico they lasted no time, and had to
be frequently replaced. As a matter of course this fraudulent manner of
trading made the poor Sakais' debts amount to fabulous proportions and
then their swindling creditor dictated the conditions he best liked: the
man had to follow and serve him or if there was some woman in the family
he preferred, he would carry her off either to keep for himself, or
privately sell to another.
To better succeed in their roguery they depicted the white man as an
incarnate devil, never tired of doing evil, who had come there for
nothing else but to ravage their land and disperse its inhabitants. The
_orang putei_ was described to the credulent Sakais as the most terrible
and cruel enemy that one could possibly imagine.
Thus the real persecutors of this primitive people were regarded by them
as true friends, whilst the relation of imaginary and fantastic perils
distracted their minds from the more practical dangers of this false
friendship.
By instilling in them fear of the white man there was less chance that
the wretched individuals, whose good faith and domestic affections had
been abused and outraged, would appeal to a British magistrate for
justice, believing him to be a worse enemy than the actual one, and if
sometimes a complaint was brought before this functionary through a
third party, a most distressing scene ensued.
The victim, under the influence of his injurer's glance and presence,
would acknowledge whatever misdeed, debt, and even crime was attributed
to him, responding to the demand if what his accuser said was true,
with the invariable and laconic words: "What he says is true".
I may here cite a case in which I took an active part when I was the
Superintendent of Sakais under the British Government.
One day a family of these Sakais who have dealings with other races,
rushed wildly into my hut, crying desperately. The parents, sobbing,
told me that a Chinese, to whom they owed a great deal, had seized and
led away their daughter.
I set myself to find the blackguard and after some difficulty succeeded.
I rescued the girl and restored her to her relations and then sent in a
report of the incident to the Magistrate. A case for abduction was made
out, and the English law does not jest on such matters. The Chinese
declared that as his debtors could not pay him his due he had agreed, if
the girl consented, to take her as his wife or servant, and so cancel
their debt towards him.
Whilst he spoke he never took his eyes off his accusers. The father and
mother of the young woman were interrogated and although they were in my
presence they replied, after a momentary hesitation:
"What he says is true".
The girl was then asked if she had followed the Chinese of her own free
will or if violence had been used in taking possession of her and she
too repeated like an automaton:
"What he says is true".
Nothing availed to get other words than these out of the poor wretches'
mouths, nor the magistrate's clever cross-questioning, nor my entreaties
to tell the whole truth. I re-called to their memory the pitiful state
they had been in when they ran into my house, crying and invoking
justice. It was all in vain; but fortunately for them the legal officer
himself was convinced that the Chinese--who stood by with a sarcastic
smile upon his lips--was guilty, and closed the process by condemning
him to six months' imprisonment.
[Illustration: A forest shooting-box.
_p._ 54.]
I made up my mind to go to the bottom of the affair if only to discover
why the Sakais, by nature so far removed from falsehood, had denied the
truth.
My investigations proved that the Chinese had threatened to revenge
himself by utterly destroying the whole family if they made any
complaint about his way of proceeding, and had also terrified them by
stories of the inhuman tortures to which they would be subjected by the
British magistrate if they spoke against him.
The confession came too late because, if they had spoken in time the
scoundrel would have had a much heavier sentence.
From this simple episode one can understand what an amount of energy,
boldness, and resolution the English Authorities need in order to
liberate the poor Sakais from the moral tyranny that still oppresses
them. But the British Government is quite equal to the task it has
undertaken, and there is no reason to doubt that before long it will
have reduced to impotency these dregs of Society who creep in amongst
the Sakai tribes, that are far removed from civilization and justice,
there to work out their wicked schemes and practise their crafty wiles.
I have written the word "dregs" on purpose, as of course peoples in a
collective sense cannot be held responsible for the bad-doings of a
small number of their countrymen, and I wish it here to be distinctly
understood that when I speak of the villainous acts and thievish
propensities of these latter (who being too well-known and despised in
their own place, to be able to succeed in their base tricks go elsewhere
in search of victims) I do not mean to offend, or cast a slight upon
Malays, Chinese, or Indians in general.
On the contrary, I have the highest esteem and respect for all three,
especially those who faithfully follow the ways of Progress, and have
certain virtues peculiarly theirs.
* * * * *
After this rapid glance into the past it is not difficult to understand
with what inquietude and uneasiness the Sakais saw their little
settlement invaded by those they feared.
The new-comers, though, no longer found such a credulous and frightened
people as they had been accustomed to on other occasions. Their
calumnious stories of the white man (whose vigilant and not very lenient
control troubled them a great deal) made little or no impression. They
knew the white man by now, he had been among them for some time and they
had even come to look upon him as a good protector.
So by mutual agreement we let our unwelcome visitors choose their sites
and erect their huts, allowing them to enjoy the ecstasy of a vigorous
abuse of the humble Sakai village and everything they could find within
reach; then one fine morning, to their infinite wonder, we left them to
their own devices and betook ourselves to the heights from whence flowed
down the little river Bidor. This sudden change of locality did not
cause me any serious sacrifice as the spot where we had been living was
not very healthy owing to the frequently stagnant condition of the
stream and, apart from hygienic motives, I was not altogether sorry at
being thus compelled to seek new quarters as I was anxious to get well
acquainted with the whole district, studying its products and its
fitness for colonization, hoping in the end to succeed in inducing the
Sakais to abandon their nomadic life for one of honest work, in the
field of agriculture. Besides so teaching my good friends the value and
the nobleness of labour I should have a useful occasion myself for
employing latent energy.
We selected a beautiful place in the forest for our new encampment, and
the men set to with a good will to cutting down the splendid timber and
luxuriant climbers within the circle drawn out for the clearing. The
thick interlaced boughs and bushy underwood were alive with reptiles,
and our advent, with the noisy and destructive blows with which we broke
the drowsy stillness of the air, brought an indescribable panic in that
little centre of animal life.
Our huts were quickly raised and we were soon able to resume our
habitual occupations.
* * * * *
Some time passed without our camp being disturbed by any sort of
incident when one day a tiger was seen to stealthily approach our
clearing and snatching up a dog in its mouth, it fled back into the
forest, the poor little beast yelping pitifully as it was being carried
off.
The fact was a graver one than the mere loss of the dog would have made
it seem because if the animal had been constrained to commit such an
audacious act by the pangs of hunger, it would most probably return
again, and who could say that there would always be a dog ready for its
meal? It is however well known, that this dreadful feline creature does
not devour its prey all at once but invariably leaves a part of the
flesh sticking to the carcass, reserving the picking of its bones for
the following night. Therefore there was a good chance of speedily
liberating ourselves from our ferocious enemy, if the Sakais had not
regarded the tiger with superstitious respect, for a reason which I will
explain later on, a vague belief in metempsychosis that also has the
effect of making them fond of their domestic animals.
I had the greatest difficulty in convincing my ignorant companions that
the tiger must be killed if we wished to remain in peace and safety. It
was a long time before I could overcome their reluctance and terror at
my proposal.
At last they consented to let me rid them of their dangerous friend and
built me a small house up one of the trees we considered to be in the
best position. Armed with a first class _Martini_ I took my place there
with two or three Sakais.
What I had expected came to pass: at dead of night the beast returned.
We could see it crawling cautiously through the high grass. I took
careful aim and fired. The sharp report was instantly answered by a
fearful roar, and the formidable creature, after giving a tremendous
jump into the air, once more disappeared into the darkness of the
forest.
The Sakais were awed and dismayed by the thunder and lightning of my
gun.
We could still hear the furious laments of the wounded animal so we
thought it advisable not to stir from our posts until morning.
At the first streak of day, as the groans of the evidently fallen tiger
had not ceased, some of the men went to ascertain its refuge whilst I,
with my loaded rifle, kept myself prompt to defend them in case of an
unlikely attack.
The beast was soon found, stretched out on the turf In spite of its fury
it was unable to move as one or two of its legs had been shattered by my
lead.
I finished it with another shot. Its skull now displays its beauties at
the Ethnographic Museum at Rome.
Not much later on I was obliged to repeat the same sport.
Another tiger had stolen a dog, and we had found its half-eaten body.
Knowing that the rest would be devoured within a few hours by the same
beast of prey we made a little shelter of leaves and branches up a tree
close by and remained there to await his majesty.
At nightfall he punctually arrived and was received, according to his
merit, by my rifle. My shot did not miss its mark and he rushed off
howling with pain and rage. All night long the forest echoes were
awakened by his horrible cries but towards morning we managed to trace
him out and he too was finished by a second shot.
* * * * *
In the year 1898 the ever increasing solicitude of the Sakays had
enabled me to accumulate a considerable quantity of Malacca cane,
rattan, resin and orchids which I had made up my mind to take to Penang
for sale.
But I wanted to indulge myself in the pleasure of conducting with me
some of my friends, the savages, that they might for the first time see
a modern town.
It was no easy matter to prevail upon them to follow up my desire but
finally I persuaded five of them to come with me as carriers.
Keeping always along the banks of the Bidor we descended as far as the
Perak which we crossed in order to do a part of the journey in train and
then board one of the steamers that ply between Telok Ansom and the
island of Penang.
During the voyage I noticed nothing particular in my companions beyond a
great wonder, not unmixed with fear, when they felt themselves
travelling upon water.
They observed everything with grand curiosity, and were immensely
interested in the noisy movement of the ship's engines and its steam
sirens.
Arrived at Penang, where I met with numerous friends, they soon became
the centre of attraction.
Dainties of every kind were pressed upon them, and they were offered
loads of the finest sweetmeats and white sugar. They accepted it all
without enthusiasm but threw away the sweetmeats as soon as they had
tasted them. When I asked them why they did so they replied that there
was something not perfectly sweet in their flavour and they feared that
whatever it was would do them harm.
The gifts which they seemed to appreciate the most were cigars, tobacco
and white sugar.
My five Sakais divided their presents with each other, putting away some
for the dear ones at home, and I often noticed that in the midst of the
bewilderment which those simple souls must have experienced at being
surrounded by people and things so totally new to them, they never
seemed to forget for a moment the beloved persons they had left behind
in the jungle.
The Town-Band gave a concert and I accompanied my protegés to hear it.
The bass instruments with their deep notes jarred upon the acoustic
sense of the poor fellows and visibly inspired them with terror. They
stopped their ears with their fingers and gave clear signs of the
unpleasant feelings they were suffering from. But it was quite different
when they heard the higher-toned instruments, especially those of wood,
as the flute, the clarionet and the oboe. The pure, vibrating notes gave
them intense enjoyment judging from the pleased expression of their
countenances and their singularly brilliant eyes.
I also took them to a Chinese theatre, but the skill of the yellow
artistes did not find its way to the Sakai heart and after having
witnessed the spectacle for a few minutes they frankly declared that
they were not at all amused.
Their artless natures and simple affections remained unpolluted by the
seductions of civilization. Nothing was wanting to content them: they
were caressed by the English, received heaps of gifts and lived without
the slightest fatigue, yet they were not happy. I saw them change humour
and become more melancholy hour by hour. The distractions with which I
tried to cure their home-sickness tended only to increase it.
The third day of our sojourn at Penang they implored me so earnestly to
let them return to their families that, impressed by their sickly looks
and disconsolate air, I promised at once to grant their desire.
This promise put them into better spirits and their good humour was
quite restored when the steamer left the harbour at Penang and bore us
towards the river Perak. No one would imagine the transformation that
had taken place in my five fellow-travellers.
Four days of town-life had told upon them physically and morally. They
were tired and disgusted with everything. Accustomed, on an average, to
walk twenty miles a day, at Penang, after strolling through a few
streets, they had been weary. Exposed to privations and hardships in the
Jungle (often owing to their own improvidence) they were soon nauseated
with the ease and abundance offered them in the city.
Where the climate, the charms of the place and the security from wild
beasts were all calculated to captivate their fancy and render them
contented, the poor Sakais drooped and pined for the vicissitudes of
their wild life in the woods where comfort was unknown and food was
sometimes scarce. Their thoughts, their very souls were always back in
the remote forest, in that enchanting wilderness whose magic spell
blinded them to its mortal perils and inconveniences. Up yonder there
was perfect liberty of action; up yonder there were their families!
That sudden transition from a primitive existence to the progress of
many centuries had been a severe shock to them. In the same way that an
abrupt change from profound darkness to the most dazzling light, or from
the temperature of the pole to that of the equator, inevitably produces
grave disorders in the organism if it does not actually prove fatal, so
the turning of a savage into a citizen at a day's notice incurs a
dangerous risk.
The popular idea amongst us that anyone can quickly habituate himself to
the luxuries and commodities of modern life finds a check when applied
to primeval people like the Sakais. They may observe, enquire, and seek
to understand--as far as their intelligence permits--everything they see
around them; they remember well all they have heard and seen, and will
mimic and describe it in their poor, strange language to their relations
and friends; they carry with them presents which are a tangible record
of their travels; they explain to the others how the houses were
protected from wind, sun and rain; they will teach how to imitate the
engine whistles, the roar of the steam flowing out of the open valves,
and the hollow sound of that mysterious monster, the motor-car, but
their enthusiasm and affections are firmly fixed upon their native
forest, wondrous in its riches and allurements.
Though it may bring to its lovers death and suffering it is always the
best beloved of the savage and only a very slow, patient and--to
them--imperceptible introduction of civilizing elements in their midst
will be able to weaken this attachment for savage surroundings and turn
those treasures of affection and fidelity to a more useful and logical
end.