Chapter XV

Solitude and Society

The volume which consists of _La Saisiaz_ and _The Two Poets of Croisic_

(1878) brings the work of this decade to a close.[119] _La Saisiaz_, the

record of thoughts that were awakened during that solitary clamber to

the summit of Salève after the death of Miss Egerton-Smith, is not an

elegy, but it remains with us as a memorial of friendship. In reading it

we discern the tall white figure of the "stranger lady," leaning through

the terrace wreaths of leaf and bloom, or pacing that low grass-path

which she had loved and called her own. It serves Browning's purpose in

the poem that she should have been one of those persons who in this

world have not manifested all that lies within them. Does she still

exist, or is she now no more than the thing which lies in the little

enclosure at Collonge? The poem after its solemn and impressive prelude

becomes the record of an hour's debate of the writer with himself--a

debate which has a definite aim and is brought to a definite issue. In

conducting that debate on immortality, Browning is neither Christian nor

anti-Christian. The Christian creed involves a question of history; he

cannot here admit historical considerations; he will see the matter out

as he is an individual soul, on the grounds suggested by his individual

consciousness and his personal knowledge. It may be that any result he

arrives at is a result for himself alone.

But why conduct an argument in verse? Is not prose a fitter medium for

such a discussion? The answer is that the poem is more than an argument;

it is the record in verse of an experience, the story of a pregnant and

passionate hour, during which passion quickened the intellect; and the

head, while resisting all illusions of the heart, was roused to that

resistance by the heart itself. Such an hour is full of events; it may

be almost epic in its plenitude of action; but the events are ideas. The

frame and setting of the discussion also are more than frame and

setting; they co-operate with the thoughts; they form part of the

experience. The poet is alone among the mountains, with dawn and sunset

for associates, Jura thrilled to gold at sunrise, Salève in its evening

rose-bloom, Mont-Blanc which strikes greatness small; or at night he is

beneath the luminous worlds which

One by one came lamping--chiefly that prepotency of Mars.

While he climbs towards the summit he is aware of "Earth's most

exquisite disclosures, heaven's own God in evidence"; he stands face to

face with Nature--"rather with Infinitude." All through his mountain

ascent the vigour of life is aroused within him; and, as he

returns--there is her grave.

The idea of a future life, for which this earthly life serves as an

education and a test, is so central with Browning, so largely influences

all his feelings and penetrates all his art, that it is worth while to

attend to the course of his argument and the nature of his conclusion.

He puts the naked question to himself--What does death mean? Is it total

extinction? Is it a passage into life?--without any vagueness, without

any flattering metaphor; he is prepared to accept or endure any answer

if only it be the truth. Whether his discussion leads to a trustworthy

result or not, the sincerity and the energy of his endeavour after truth

serve to banish all supine and half-hearted moods. The debate, of which

his poem is a report, falls into two parts: first, a statement of facts;

secondly, a series of conjectures--conjectures and no more--rising from

the basis of facts that are ascertained. To put the question, "Shall I

survive death?" is to assume that I exist and that something other than

myself exists which causes me now to live and presently to die. The

nature of this power outside myself I do not know; we may for

convenience call it "God." Beyond these two facts--myself and a power

environing me--nothing is known with certainty which has any bearing on

the matter in dispute. I am like a floating rush borne onward by a

stream; whither borne the rush cannot tell; but rush and stream are

facts that cannot be questioned.

Knowing that I exist--Browning goes on--I know what for me is pain and

what is pleasure. And, however it may be with others, for my own part I

can pronounce upon the relation of joy to sorrow in this my life on

earth:--

I must say--or choke in silence----"Howsoever came my fate,

Sorrow did and joy did nowise--life well weighed--preponderate."

If this failure be ordained by necessity, I shall bear it as best I can;

but, if this life be all, nothing shall force me to say that life has

proceeded from a cause supreme in goodness, wisdom, and power. What I

find here is goodness always intermixed with evil; wisdom which means an

advance from error to the confession of ignorance; power that is

insufficient to adapt a human being to his surroundings even in the

degree in which a worm is fitted to the leaf on which it feeds.

Browning tacitly rejects the idea that the world is the work of some

blind, force; and undoubtedly our reason, which endeavours to reduce all

things in nature to rational conceptions, demands that we should

conceive the world as rational rather than as some wild work of chance.

Upon one hypothesis, and upon one alone, can the life of man upon this

globe appear the result of intelligence:

I have lived then, done and suffered, loved and hated, learnt and taught

This--there is no reconciling wisdom with a world distraught,

Goodness with triumphant evil, power with failure in the aim,

If (to my own sense, remember! though none other feel the same!)

If you bar me from assuming earth to be a pupil's place,

And life, time,--with all their chances, changes,--just probation--space,

Mine for me.

Grant this hypothesis, and all changes from irrational to rational, from

evil to good, from pain to a strenuous joy:--

Only grant a second life, I acquiesce

In this present life as failure, count misfortune's worst assaults

Triumph, not defeat, assured that loss so much the more exalts

Gain about to be.

Thus out of defeat springs victory; never are we so near to knowledge as

when we are checked at the bounds of ignorance; beauty is felt through

its opposite; good is known through evil; truth shows its potency when

it is confronted by falsehood;

While for love--Oh how but, losing love, does whoso loves succeed

By the death-pang to the birth-throe--learning what is love indeed?

Yet at best this idea of a future life remains a conjecture, an

hypothesis, a hope, which gives a key to the mysteries of our troubled

earthly state. Browning proceeds to argue that such a hope is all that

we can expect or ought to desire. The absolute assurance of a future

life and of rewards and punishments consequent on our deeds in the

present world would defeat the very end for which, according to the

hypothesis, we are placed here; it would be fatal to the purpose of our

present life considered as a state of probation. What such a state of

probation requires is precisely what we have--hope; no less than this

and no more. Does our heaven overcloud because we lack certainty? No:

Hope the arrowy, just as constant, comes to pierce its gloom, compelled

By a power and by a purpose which, if no one else beheld,

I behold in life, so--hope!

Such is the conclusion with Browning of the whole matter. It is in

entire accordance with a letter which he wrote two years previously to a

lady who supposed herself to be dying, and who had thanked him for help

derived from his poems: "All the help I can offer, in my poor degree, is

the assurance that I see ever _more_ reason to hold by the same

hope--and that by no means in ignorance of what has been advanced to the

contrary.... God bless you, sustain you, and receive you." To Dr

Moncure Conway, who had lost a son, Browning wrote: "If I, who cannot,

would restore your son, He who can, will." And Mr Rudolph Lehmann

records his words in conversation: "I have doubted and denied it [a

future life], and I fear have even printed my doubts; but now I am as

deeply convinced that there is something after death. If you ask me

what, I no more know it than my dog knows who and what I am. He knows

that I am there and that is enough for him."[120]

Browning's confession in _La Saisias_ that the sorrow of his life

outweighed its joy is not inconsistent with his habitual cheerfulness of

manner. Such estimates as this are little to be trusted. One great shock

of pain may stand for ever aloof from all other experiences; the

pleasant sensations of many days pass from our memory. We cannot tell.

But that Browning supposed himself able to tell is in itself worthy of

note. In _The Two Poets of Croisic_, which was written in London

immediately after _La Saisiaz_, and which, though of little intrinsic

importance, shows that Browning was capable of a certain grace in verse

that is light, he pleads that the power of victoriously dealing with

pain and transforming it into strength may be taken as the test of a

poet's greatness:

Yoke Hatred, Crime, Remorse,

Despair: but ever 'mid the whirling fear,

Let, through the tumult, break the poet's face

Radiant, assured his wild slaves win the race.

This is good counsel for art; but not wholly wise counsel for life.

Sorrow, indeed, is not wronged by a cheerfulness cultivated and

strenuously maintained; but gladness does suffer a certain wrong.

Sunshine comes and goes; the attempt to substitute any unrelieved light

for sunshine is somewhat of a failure at the best. Shadows and

brightness pursuing each other according to the course of nature make

more for genuine happiness than does any stream of moral electricity

worked from a dynamo of the will. It is pleasanter to encounter a breeze

that sinks and swells, that lingers and hastens, than to face a vigorous

and sustained gale even of a tonic quality. Browning's unfailing cheer

and cordiality of manner were admirable; they were in part spontaneous,

in part an acceptance of duty, in part a mode of self-protection; they

were only less excellent than the varying moods of a simple and

beautiful nature.

When _La Saisiaz_ appeared Browning was sixty-six years old. He lived

for more than eleven years longer, during which period he published six

volumes of verse, showing new powers as a writer of brief poetic

narrative and as a teacher through parables; but he produced no single

work of prolonged and sustained effort--which perhaps was well. His

physical vigour continued for long unabated. He still enjoyed the

various pleasures and excitements of the London season; but it is noted

by Mrs Orr that after the death of Miss Egerton-Smith he "almost

mechanically renounced all the musical entertainments to which she had

so regularly accompanied him." His daily habits were of the utmost

regularity, varying hardly at all from week to week. He was averse, says

Mrs Orr, "to every hought of change," and chose rather to adapt himself

to external conditions than to enter on the effort of altering them;

"what he had done once he was wont, for that very reason, to continue

doing." A few days after Browning's death a journalist obtained from a

photographer, Mr Grove, who had formerly been for seven years in

Browning's service, the particulars as to how an ordinary day during the

London season went by at Warwick Crescent. Browning rose without fail at

seven, enjoyed a plate of whatever fruit--strawberries, grapes,

oranges--were in season; read, generally some piece of foreign

literature, for an hour in his bedroom; then bathed; breakfasted--a

light meal of twenty minutes; sat by the fire and read his _Times_ and

_Daily News_ till ten; from ten to one wrote in his study or meditated

with head resting on his hand. To write a letter was the reverse of a

pleasure to him, yet he was diligent in replying to a multitude of

correspondents. His lunch, at one, was of the lightest kind, usually no

more than a pudding. Visits, private views of picture exhibitions and

the like followed until half-past five. At seven he dined, preferring

Carlowitz or claret to other wines, and drinking little of any. But on

many days the dinner was not at home; once during three successive weeks

he dined out without the omission of a day. He returned home seldom at a

later hour than half-past twelve; and at seven next morning the round

began again. During his elder years, says Mr Grove, he took little

interest in politics. He was not often a church-goer, but discussed

religious matters earnestly with his clerical friends. He loved not only

animals but flowers, and when once a Virginia creeper entered the study

window at Warwick Crescent, it was not expelled but trained inside the

room. To his servants he was a considerate friend rather than a master.

So far Mr Grove as reported in the _Pall Mall Gazette_ (Dec 16, 1889).

Many persons have attempted to describe Browning as he appeared in

society; there is a consensus of opinion as to the energy and cordiality

of his way of social converse; but it is singular that, though some

records of his out-pourings as a talker exist, very little is on record

that possesses permanent value. Perhaps the best word that can be quoted

is that remembered by Sir James Paget--Browning's recommendation of

Bach's "Crucifixus--et sepultus--et resurrexit" as a cure for want of

belief. He did not fling such pointed shafts as those of Johnson which

still hang and almost quiver where they struck. His energy did not

gather itself up into sentences but flowed--and sometimes foamed--in a

tide. Cordial as he was, he could be also vehemently intolerant, and

sometimes perhaps where his acquaintance with the subject of his

discourse was not sufficient to warrant a decided opinion.[121] He

appeared, says his biographer, "more widely sympathetic in his works

than in his life"; with no moral selfishness he was, adds Mrs Orr,

intellectually self-centred; and unquestionably the statement is

correct. He could suffer fools, but not always gladly. Speaking of

earlier days in Italy, T.A. Trollope observes that, while he was never

rough or discourteous even to the most exasperating fool, "the men used

to be rather afraid of Browning." His cordiality was not insincere; but

it belonged to his outer, not his inner self. With the exception of

Milsand, he appears to have admitted no man to his heart, though he gave

a portion of his intellect to many. His friends, in the more intimate

sense of the word, were women, towards whom his feeling was that of

comradeship and fraternal affection without over-much condescension or

any specially chivalric sentiment. When early in their acquaintance Miss

Barrett promised Browning that he would find her "an honest man on the

whole," she understood her correspondent, who valued a good comrade of

the other sex, and had at the same time a vivid sense of the fact that

such a comrade was not so unfortunate as to be really a man.

Let witnesses be cited and each give his fragment of evidence. Mr W.J.

Stillman, an excellent observer, was specially impressed in his

intercourse with Browning, by the mental health and robustness of a

nature sound to the core; "an almost unlimited intellectual vitality,

and an individuality which nothing could infringe on, but which a

singular sensitiveness towards others prevented from ever wounding even

the most morbid sensibility; a strong man armed in the completest

defensive armour, but with no aggressiveness."[122] A writer in the

first volume of _The New Review_, described Browning as a talker in

general society so faithfully that it is impossible to improve on what

he has said: "It may safely be alleged," he writes, "that no one meeting

Mr Browning for the first time, and unfurnished with a clue, would guess

his vocation. He might be a diplomatist, a statesman, a discoverer, or a

man of science. But, whatever were his calling, we should feel that it

must be essentially practical.... His conversation corresponds to his

appearance. It abounds in vigour, in fire, in vivacity. Yet all the time

it is entirely free from mystery, vagueness, or technical jargon. It is

the crisp, emphatic and powerful discourse of a man of the world, who is

incomparably better informed than the mass of his congeners. Mr Browning

is the readiest, the blithest, and the most forcible of talkers. Like

the Monsignore in _Lothair_ he can 'sparkle with anecdote and blaze with

repartee,' and when he deals in criticism the edge of his sword is

mercilessly whetted against pretension and vanity. The inflection of his

voice, the flash of his eye, the pose of his head, the action of his

hand, all lend their special emphasis to the condemnation." The mental

quality which most impressed Mr W.M. Rossetti in his communications with

Browning was, he says, "celerity "--"whatever he had to consider or

speak about, he disposed of in the most forthright style." His method

was of the greatest directness; "every touch told, every nail was hit on

the head." He was not a sustained, continuous speaker, nor exactly a

brilliant one; "but he said something pleasant and pointed on whatever

turned up; ... one felt his mind to be extraordinarily rich, while his

facility, accessibility, and _bonhomie_, softened but did not by any

means disguise the sense of his power."[123] Browning's discourse with a

single person who was a favoured acquaintance was, Mr Gosse declares, "a

very much finer phenomenon than when a group surrounded him." Then "his

talk assumed the volume and the tumult of a cascade. His voice rose to

a shout, sank to a whisper, ran up and down the gamut of conversational

melody.... In his own study or drawing-room, what he loved was to

capture the visitor in a low arm-chair's "sofa-lap of leather", and from

a most unfair vantage of height to tyrannize, to walk round the victim,

in front, behind, on this side, on that, weaving magic circles, now with

gesticulating arms thrown high, now grovelling on the floor to find some

reference in a folio, talking all the while, a redundant turmoil of

thoughts, fancies, and reminiscences flowing from those generous

lips."[124]

Mr Henry James in his "Life of Story"[125] is less pictorial, but he is

characteristically subtle in his rendering of the facts. He brings us

back, however, to Browning as seen in society. He speaks of the Italian

as a comparatively idyllic period which seemed to be "built out," though

this was not really the case, by the brilliant London period. It was, he

says, as if Browning had divided his personal consciousness into two

independent compartments. The man of the world "walked abroad, showed

himself, talked, right resonantly, abounded, multiplied his connections,

did his duty." The poet--an inscrutable personage--"sat at home and

knew, as well he might, in what quarters of _that_ sphere to look for

suitable company." "The poet and the 'member of society' were, in a

word, dissociated in him as they can rarely elsewhere have been.... The

wall that built out the idyll (as we call it for convenience) of which

memory and imagination were virtually composed for him, stood there

behind him solidly enough, but subject to his privilege of living almost

equally on both sides of it. It contained an invisible door, through

which, working the lock at will, he could softly pass, and of which he

kept the golden key--carrying about the same with him even in the pocket

of his dinner waistcoat, yet even in his most splendid expansions

showing it, happy man, to none." Tennyson, said an acquaintance of Miss

Anna Swanwick, "hides himself behind his laurels, Browning behind the

man of the world." She declares that her experience was more fortunate;

that she seldom heard Browning speak without feeling that she was

listening to the poet, and that on more than one occasion he spoke to

her of his wife[126]. But many witnesses confirm the impression which is

so happily put into words by Mr Henry James. The "member of society"

protected the privacy of the poet. The questions remain whether the poet

did not suffer from such protection; whether, beside the superfluous

forces which might be advantageously disposed of at the drawing-board or

in thumping wet clay, some of the forces proper to the poet were not

drawn away and dissipated by the incessant demands of Society; whether

while a sufficient fund of energy for the double life was present with

Browning, the peculiar energy of the poet did not undergo a certain

deterioration. The doctrine of the superiority of the heart to the

intellect is more and more preached in Browning's poetry; but the

doctrine itself is an act of the intellect. The poet need not perhaps

insist on the doctrine if he creates--as Browning did in earlier

years--beautiful things which commend themselves, without a preacher,

to our love.

In the autumn of 1878, after seventeen years of absence from Italy,

Browning was recaptured by its charm, and henceforward to the close of

his life Venice and the Venetian district became his accustomed place of

summer refreshment and repose. For a time, with his sister as his

companion, he paused at a hotel near the summit of the Splügen, enjoyed

the mountain air, walked vigorously, and wrote, with great rapidity,

says Mrs Orr, his poem of Russia, _Ivàn Ivànovitch_. When a boy he had

read in Bunyan's "Life and Death of Mr Badman" the story of "Old Tod",

and with this still vivid in his memory, he added to his Russian tale

the highly unidyllic "idyl" of English life, _Ned Bratts_. It was thus

that subjects for poems suddenly presented themselves to Browning, often

rising up as it were spontaneously out of the remote past. "There comes

up unexpectedly," he wrote in a letter to a friend, "some subject for

poetry, which has been dormant, and apparently dead, for perhaps dozens

of years. A month since I wrote a poem of some two hundred lines

['Donald'] about a story I heard more than forty years ago, and never

dreamed of trying to repeat, wondering how it had so long escaped me;

and so it has been with my best things."[127] Before the close of

September the travellers were in a rough but pleasant albergo at Asolo,

which Browning had not seen since his first Italian journey more than

forty years previously. "Such things," he writes, "have begun and ended

with me in the interval!" Changes had taken place in the little city;

yet much seemed familiar and therefore the more dreamlike. The place had

indeed haunted him in his dreams; he would find himself travelling with

a friend, or some mysterious stranger, when suddenly the little town

sparkling in the sunshine would rise before him. "Look! look there is

Asolo," he would cry, "do let us go there!" And always, after the way of

dreams, his companions would declare it impossible and he would be

hurried away.[128] From the time that he actually saw again the city

that he loved this recurring dream was to come no more. He wandered

through the well-known places, and seeking for an echo in the Rocca, the

ruined fortress above the town, he found that it had not lost its

tongue. A fortnight at Venice in a hotel where quiet and coolness were

the chief attractions, prepared the way for many subsequent visits to

what he afterwards called "the dearest place in the world." Everything

in Venice, says Mrs Bronson, charmed him: "He found grace and beauty in

the _popolo_ whom he paints so well in the Goldoni sonnet. The poorest

street children were pretty in his eyes. He would admire a carpenter or

a painter, who chanced to be at work in the house, and say to me 'See

the fine poise of the head ... those well-cut features. You might fancy

that man in the crimson robe of a Senator as you see them in Tintoret's

canvas.'"

But these are reminiscences of later days. It was in 1880 that Browning

made the acquaintance of his American friend Mrs Arthur Bronson, whose

kind hospitalities added to the happiness of his visits to Asolo and to

Venice, who received, as if it were a farewell gift, the dedication of

his last volume, and who, not long before her death in 1901, published

interesting articles on "Browning in Asolo" and "Browning in Venice" in

_The Century Magazine_. The only years in which he did not revisit

Venice were 1882, 1884 and 1886, and in each of these years his absence

was occasioned by some unforeseen mis-adventure. In 1882 the floods were

out, and he proceeded no farther than Verona. Could he have overcome the

obstacles and reached Venice, he feared that he might have been

incapable of enjoying it. For the first time in his life he was lamed by

what he took for an attack of rheumatism, "caught," he says, "just

before leaving St Pierre de Chartreuse, through my stupid inadvertence

in sitting with a window open at my back--reading the Iliad, all my

excuse!--while clad in a thin summer suit, and snow on the hills and

bitterness every where."[129] In 1884 his sister's illness at first

forbade travel to so considerable a distance. The two companions were

received by another American friend, Mrs Bloomfield Moore, at the Villa

Berry, St Moritz, and when she was summoned across the Atlantic, at her

request they continued to occupy her villa. The season was past; the

place deserted; but the sun shone gloriously. "We have walked every

day," Browning wrote at the end of September, "morning and

evening--afternoon I should say--two or three hours each excursion, the

delicious mountain air surpassing any I was ever privileged to breathe.

My sister is absolutely herself again, and something over: I was hardly

in want of such doctoring."[130] Two years later Miss Browning was

ailing again, and they did not venture farther than Wales. At the Hand

Hotel, Llangollen, they were at no great distance from Brintysilio, the

summer residence of their friends Sir Theodore and Lady Martin--in

earlier days the Lady Carlisle and Colombe of Browning's plays.[131] Mrs

Orr notices that Browning, Liberal as he declared himself, was now very

favourably impressed by the services to society of the English country

gentleman. "Talk of abolishing that class of men!" he exclaimed, "they

are the salt of the earth!" She adds, as worthy of remark, that he

attended regularly the afternoon Sunday service in the parish church at

Llantysilio, where now a tablet of Lady Martin's placing marks the spot.

Churchgoing was not his practice in London; "but I do not think," says

Mrs Orr, "he ever failed in it at the Universities or in the country."

At Venice it was his custom to be present with his sister at the

services of a Waldensian chapel, where "a certain eloquent pastor," as

Mrs Bronson describes him, was the preacher. A year before his death

Browning in a letter to Lady Martin recalls the happy season in the Vale

of Llangollen--"delightful weeks--each tipped with a sweet starry Sunday

at the little church leading to the House Beautiful where we took our

rest of an evening spent always memorably."

[Illustration: THE PALAZZO GIUSTINIANI, VENICE.

_From a drawing by_ Miss N. ERICHSEN.]

Before passing on to Venice, where repose was mingled with excitement,

Browning was accustomed to seek a renewal of physical energy, after the

fatigues of London, in some place not too much haunted by the English

tourist, where he could walk for hours in the clear mountain air. In

1881 and 1882 it was St Pierre de Chartreuse, from which he visited the

Grande Chartreuse, and heard the midnight mass; in 1883 and 1885 it was

Gressoney St Jean in the Val d'Aosta--the "delightful Gressoney" of the

Prologue to _Ferishtah's Fancies_, where "eggs, milk, cheese, fruit"

sufficed "for gormandizing"; in 1888 it was the yet more beautiful

Primiero, near Feltre. In the previous year he had, for the second time,

stayed at St Moritz. These were seasons of abounding life. St Pierre was

only "a wild little clump of cottages on a mountain amid loftier

mountains," with the roughest of little inns for its hotel; but its

primitive arrangements suited Browning well and were bravely borne by

his sister.[132] From Gressoney in September 1885 he wrote: "We are all

but alone, the brief 'season' being over, and only a chance traveller

turning up for a fortnight's lodging. We take our walks in the old way;

two and a half hours before breakfast, three after it, in the most

beautiful country I know. Yesterday the three hours passed without our

meeting a single man, woman, or child; one man only was discovered at a

distance at the foot of a mountain we had climbed."[133] All things

pleased him; an August snowstorm at St Moritz was made amends for by

"the magnificence of the mountain and its firs black against the

universal white"; it served moreover as an illustration of a passage in

the Iliad, the only book that accompanied him from England: "The days

glide away uneventfully, _nearly_, and I breathe in the pleasant

idleness at every pore. I have no few acquaintances here--nay, some

old friends--but my intimates are the firs on the hillside, and the

myriad butterflies all about it, every bright wing of them under the

snow to-day, which ought not to have been for a fortnight yet."[134] And

from Primiero in 1888, when his strength had considerably declined, a

letter tells of unabated pleasure; of mountains "which morning and

evening, in turn, transmute literally to gold," with at times a silver

change; of the valley "one green luxuriance"; of the tiger-lilies in the

garden above ten feet high, every bloom and every leaf faultless; and of

the captive fox, "most engaging of little vixens," who, to Browning's

great joy, broke her chain and escaped.[135] As each successive volume

that he published seemed to him his best, so of his mountain places of

abode the last always was the loveliest.

At Venice for a time the quiet Albergo dell' Universo suited Browning

and his sister well, but when Mrs Bronson pressed them to accept the use

of a suite of rooms in the Palazzo Giustiniani Recanati and the kind

offer was accepted, the gain was considerable; and the _Palazzo_ has

historical associations dating from the fifteenth century which pleased

Browning's imagination. It was his habit to rise early, and after a

light breakfast to visit the Public Gardens with his sister. He had many

friends--Mrs Bronson is our informant--whose wants or wishes he bore in

mind--the prisoned elephant, the baboon, the kangaroo, the marmosets,

the pelicans, the ostrich; three times, with strict punctuality, he

made his rounds, and then returned to his apartment. At noon appeared

the second and more substantial breakfast, at which Italian dishes were

preferred. Browning wrote passionately against the vivisection of

animals, and strenuously declaimed against the decoration of a lady's

hat with the spoils of birds--

Clothed with murder of His best

Of harmless beings.

He praised God--for pleasure as he teaches us is praise--by heartily

enjoying ortolans, "a dozen luscious lumps" provided by the cook of the

Giustiniani-Recanati palace; to vary his own phrasing, he was

Fed with murder of His best

Of harmless beings,

and laughed, innocently enough, with his good sister over the delicious

"mouthfuls for cardinals."[136] As if the pleasure of the eye in beauty

gained at a bird's expense were more criminal than the gusto of the

tongue in lusciousness, curbed by piquancy, gained at the expense of a

dozen other birds! At three o'clock came the gondola, and it was often

directed to the Lido. "I walk, even in wind and rain, for a couple of

hours on Lido," Browning wrote when nearly seventy, "and enjoy the break

of sea on the strip of sand as much as Shelley did in those old

days."[137] And to another friend: "You don't know how absolutely well I

am after my walking, not on the mountains merely, but on the beloved

Lido. Go there, if only to stand and be blown about by the sea

wind."[138] At one time he even talked of completing an unfinished villa

on the Lido from which "the divine sunsets" could be seen, but the

dream-villa faded after the manner of such dreams. Sunsets, however, and

sunrises never faded from Browning's brain. "I will not praise a cloud

however bright," says Wordsworth, although no one has praised them more

ardently than he. From Pippa's sunrise to the sunrises of mornings when

his life drew towards its close, Browning lavished his praise upon the

scenery of the sky. A passage quoted by Mrs Orr from a letter written a

little more than a year before his death is steeped in colour; when

_Pippa Passes_ becomes the prey of the annotating editor it will

illuminate his page: "Every morning at six I see the sun rise.... My

bedroom window commands a perfect view: the still, grey lagune, the few

sea-gulls flying, the islet of S. Giorgio in deep shadow, and the clouds

in a long purple rack, behind which a sort of spirit of rose burns up

till presently all the rims are on fire with gold, and last of all the

orb sends before it a long column of its own essence apparently: so my

day begins." The sea-gulls of which this extract speaks were, Mrs

Bronson tells us, a special delight to Browning. On a day of gales "he

would stand at the window and watch them as they sailed to and fro, a

sure sign of heavy storms in the Adriatic." To him, as he declared, they

were even more interesting than the doves of St Mark.

Sometimes his walks, guided by Mrs Bronson's daughter, "the best

cicerone in the world," he said, were through the narrowest by-streets

of the city, where he rejoiced in the discovery, or what he supposed to

be discovery, of some neglected stone of Venice. Occasionally he

examined curiously the monuments of the churches. His American friend

tells at length the story of a search in the Church of San Niccolò for

the tomb of the chieftain Salinguerra of Browning's own _Sordello_. At

times he entered the bric-a-brac shops, and made a purchase of some

piece of old furniture or tapestry. His rule "never to buy anything

without knowing exactly what he wished to do with it" must have been

interpreted liberally, for when about to move in June 1887 from Warwick

Crescent to De Vere Gardens many treasures acquired in Italy were, Mrs

Orr tells us, stowed away in the house which he was on the point of

leaving. And the latest bibelot was always the most enchanting: "Like a

child with a new toy," says Mrs Bronson, "he would carry it himself

(size and weight permitting) into the gondola, rejoice over his chance

in finding it, and descant eloquently upon its intrinsic merits." Thus,

or with his son's assistance, came to De Vere Gardens brass lamps that

had hung in Venetian chapels, the silver Jewish "Sabbath lamp," and the

"four little heads"--the seasons--after which, Browning declared, he

would not buy another thing for the house.[139] Returning from his walks

on the Lido or wanderings through the little _calli_, he showed that

unwise half-disdain, which an unenlightened masculine Herakles might

have shown, for the blessedness of five o'clock tea. At dinner he was in

his toilet what Mr Henry James calls the "member of society," never the

poet whose necktie is a dithyramb. Good sense was his habit if not his

foible. And why should we deny ourselves here the pleasure of imagining

Miss Browning at these pleasant ceremonies, as Mrs Bronson describes

her, wearing "beautiful gowns of rich and sombre tints, and appearing

each day in a different and most dainty French cap and quaint antique

jewels"? If other guests were not present, sometimes a visit to the

theatre followed. The Venetian comedies of Gallina especially pleased

Browning; he went to his spacious box at the Goldoni evening after

evening, and did not fail to express his thanks to his "brother

dramatist" for the enjoyment he had received. In his _Toccata of

Galuppi_ he had expressed the melancholy which underlies the transitory

gaiety of eighteenth-century life in Venice; but he could also remember

its innocent gladnesses without this sense of melancholy. When in 1883

the committee of the Goldoni monument asked Browning to contribute a

poem to their Album he immediately complied with the request. It was

"scribbled off," according to Mrs Orr, while Professor Molmenti's

messenger was waiting; it was ready the day after the request reached

him, says Mrs Bronson, and was probably "carefully thought out before he

put pen to paper." It catches, in the happiest temper, the spirit of

Goldoni's sunniest plays:

There throng the People: how they come and go,

Lisp the soft language, flaunt the bright garb--see--

On Piazza, Calle, under Portico

And over Bridge! Dear King of Comedy,

Be honoured! Thou that didst love Venice so,

Venice, and we who love her, all love thee!

The brightness and lightness of southern life soothed Browning's

northern strenuousness of mood. He would enumerate of a morning the

crimes of "the wicked city" as revealed by the reports of the public

press--a gondolier's oars had been conveyed away, a piece of linen a-dry

had corrupted the virtue of some lightfingered Autolycus of the

canals![140] Yet all the while much of his heart remained with his

native land. He could not be happy without his London daily paper; Mrs

Orr tells us how deeply interested he was in the fortunes of the British

expedition for the relief of General Gordon.

In 1885 Browning's son for the first time since his childhood was in

Italy. With Venice he was in his father's phrase "simply infatuated."

For his son's sake, but also with the thought of a place of retreat when

perhaps years should bring with them feebleness of body, Browning

entered into treaty with the owner, an Austrian and an absentee, for the

purchase of the Manzoni Palazzo on the Grand Canal. He considered it the

most beautiful house in Venice. Ruskin had described it in the "Stones

of Venice" as "a perfect and very rich example of Byzantine

Renaissance." It wholly captured the imagination of Browning. He not

only already possessed it in his dream, but was busy opening new windows

to admit the morning sunshine, and throwing out balconies, while leaving

undisturbed the rich façade with its medallions in coloured marble. The

dream was never realised. The vendor, Marchese Montecucculi, hoping to

secure a higher price, drew back. Browning was about to force him by

legal proceedings to fulfil his bargain, when it was discovered that the

walls were cracked and the foundations were untrustworthy. To his great

mortification the whole scheme had to be abandoned. It was not until

his son in 1888, the year after his marriage, acquired possession of the

Palazzo Rezzonico--"a stately temple of the rococo" is Mr Henry James's

best word for it--that Browning ceased to think with regret of the lost

Manzoni. At no time, however, did he design a voluntary abandonment of

his life in England. When in full expectation of becoming the owner of

the Palazzo Manzoni he wrote to Dr Furnivall: "Don't think I mean to

give up London till it warns me away; when the hospitalities and

innumerable delights grow a burden.... Pen will have sunshine and beauty

about him, and every help to profit by these, while I and my sister have

secured a shelter when the fogs of life grow too troublesome."

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 119: Some parts of what follows on _La Saisiaz_ have already

appeared in print in a forgotten article of mine on that poem.]

[Footnote 120: "An Artist's Reminiscences," by R. Lehmann (1894), p.

231.]

[Footnote 121: Thus he declaimed to Robert Buchanan against Walt

Whitman's writings, with which, according to Buchanan, he had little

acquaintance.]

[Footnote 122: "Autobiography of a Journalist," ii. 210.]

[Footnote 123: From the first of three valuable articles by Mr Rossetti

in _The Magazine of Art_ (1890) on "Portraits of Robert Browning."]

[Footnote 124: Robert Browning, "Personalia," by Edmund Gosse, pp. 81,

82.]

[Footnote 125: Vol. ii. pp. 88, 89.]

[Footnote 126: Anna Swanwick, "A Memoir by Mary L. Bruce," pp. 130, 131.

To Dr Furnivall he often spoke of Mrs Browning.]

[Footnote 127: From Mrs Bronson's article in _The Century Magazine_,

"Browning in Venice."]

[Footnote 128: Related more fully in Mrs Bronson's article "Browning in

Asolo" in _The Century Magazine_.]

[Footnote 129: Mrs Bronson's "Browning in Venice" in _The Century

Magazine_.]

[Footnote 130: To Dr Furnivall, Sept. 28, 1884.]

[Footnote 131: Some notices of Browning in Wales occur in Sir T.

Martin's "Life of Lady Martin."]

[Footnote 132: Letter to Dr Furnivall, August 29, 1881.]

[Footnote 133: To Dr Furnivall, Sept. 7, 1885.]

[Footnote 134: To Dr Furnivall, August 21, 1887.]

[Footnote 135: See for fuller details the letter in Mrs Orr's _Life of

Browning_, pp. 407, 408.]

[Footnote 136: So described by Mrs Bronson.]

[Footnote 137: To Dr Furnivall, Oct. 11, 1881.]

[Footnote 138: Quoted by Mrs Bronson.]

[Footnote 139: Mrs Orr, "Life of Browning," p. 400.]

[Footnote 140: Mrs Bronson records this.]

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