HOME PURSUITS AND DOMESTIC ARTS.
_Needle-work_, _Fancy-work_--_Preparations for
Writing_--_Flowers_--_House Plants_--_Birds_--_Gold Fish_, _&c._
The first and best use of the needle is common or plain sewing. Every
woman and girl should understand this art, the beginning of all arts,
and the most indispensable to civilization.
It is unnecessary to dilate on the importance of common needlework,
and to this female accomplishment, so universally necessary, we shall
principally confine our directions.
626. _Requisites for Sewing._--A neat work-box well supplied with all
the implements required, including knife, scissors (of at least three
sizes), needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles,
thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, &c.,
should be provided, and be furnished with a lock and key, to prevent
the contents being thrown into confusion by children or unauthorized
intruders.
The lady, being thus provided, and having her materials, implements,
&c., placed in order upon her work-table, to the edge of which it is
an advantage to have a pincushion affixed by means of a screw--may
commence her work, and proceed with it with pleasure to herself, and
without annoyance to any visitor who may favor her with a call. We
would recommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should
be made of cedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should
open into a garden well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants,
the perfume of which will materially cheer the spirits of those
especially, whose circumstances compel them to devote the greatest
portion of their time to sedentary occupations. If these advantages
cannot be obtained, at least the room should be well-ventilated, and
furnished with a few cheerful plants, and a well-filled scent-jar.
The beneficent Creator intended all his children, in whatever station
of life they might be placed, to share in the common bounties of
his providence; and when she, who works not for pleasure, but to
obtain the means of subsistence, is compelled to seclude herself, for
days or weeks together, from the cheering influence of exercise in
the open air, it becomes both her duty, and that of those for whom
she labors, to secure as much of these advantages, or of the best
substitutes for them, as the circumstances of the case will admit.
EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.
627. _Hemming._--Turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible.
Flatten, and be careful, especially in turning down the corners. Hem
from right to left; bring the point of the needle from the chest
toward the right hand. Fasten the thread without a knot, and when you
finish, sew several stitches close together, and cut off the thread.
628. _Mantua-maker's Hem._--You lay the raw edge of one of your
pieces a little below that of the other; the upper edge is then
turned over the other twice, and felled down as strong as possible.
629. _Sewing and Felling._--If you have selvages, join them together,
and sew them firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down one of the
edges once, and the other double the breadth, and then turn half
of it back again. This is for the fell. The two pieces are pinned
together, face to face, and seamed together--the stitches being in a
slanting direction, and just deep enough to hold the separate pieces
firmly together. Then flatten the seam with the thumb, turn the work
over, and fell it the same as hemming. The thread is fastened by
being worked between the pieces, and sewn over.
630. _Running._--Take _three threads, leave three_, and, in order
that the work may be kept as firm as possible, back-stitch
occasionally. If you sew selvages, they must be joined evenly
together; but if raw edges, one must be turned down once, and the
other laid upon it, but a few threads from the top: in this case, it
must be felled afterwards.
631. _Stitching._--The work must be as even as possible. Turn down a
piece to stitch to; draw a thread to stitch upon, twelve or fourteen
threads from the edge. Being thus prepared, you take _two threads
back_, and so bring the needle out from _under two before_. Proceed
in this manner to the end of the row; and, in joining a fresh piece
of thread, take care to pass the needle between the edges, and so
bring it out where the last stitch is finished.
632. _Gathering._--You begin by taking the article to be gathered,
and dividing it into halves, and then into quarters, putting on
pins to make the divisions. The piece to which you are intending to
gather it, must be gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking
three threads on the needle, and leaving four; and so proceeding
alternately until one quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread by
twisting it round a pin; stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly
and neatly, with a strong needle or pin. You then proceed as before,
until all the gathers are gathered. Then take out the pins, and
regulate the gathers of each quarter so as to correspond with those
of the piece to which it is to be sewed. The gathers are then to be
fastened on, one at a time; and the stitches must be in a slanting
direction. The part to be gathered must be cut quite even before
commencing, or else it will be impossible to make the gathering look
well.
633. _Double Gathering, or Puffing._--This is sometimes employed in
setting on frills, and, when executed properly, has a pretty effect.
You first gather the top in the usual way; then, having stroked down
the gathers, you gather again under the first gathering, and of such
a depth as you wish the puffing to be. You then sew on the first
gathering to the gown, frock, &c., you design to trim, at a distance
corresponding with the width of the puffing, and the second gathering
sewed to the edge, so as to form a full hem. You may make a double
hem, if you please, by gathering three times instead of only twice;
and one of the hems may be straight, while the other is drawn to one
side a little. This requires much exactness in the execution, but, if
properly done, it gives a pleasing variety to the work.
634. _German Hemming._--Turn down both the raw edges once, taking
care so to do it as that both turns may be toward your person; you
then lay one below the other, so as that the smooth edge of the
nearest does not touch the other, but lies just beneath it. The lower
one is then to be hemmed or felled to the piece against which you
have laid it, still holding it before you. You are next to open your
sleeve, or whatever else you have been employed upon, and, laying the
upper fold over the lower, fell it down, and the work is done.
635. _Binding._--Various kinds of work have binding set on to them,
in preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone
stitch. Flannel is generally bound, sometimes with a thin tape, made
for the purpose, and called "flannel binding." It is also common to
bind flannel with sarcenet riband. The binding is so put on as to
show but little over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed
down neatly; on the other side it is run on with small stitches.
636. _Braiding._--Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety
of purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn
out of the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be
less perceived.
637. _Marking._--It is of essential importance that clothes should
be marked and numbered. This is often done with ink; but as some,
persons like to mark with silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two
threads are to be taken each way of the cloth, and the needle must
be passed three ways, in order that the stitch may be complete. The
first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand; the second is
downward toward you; and the third is the reverse of the first--that
is, aslant from you, toward the left hand. The needle is to be
brought out at the corner of the stitch nearest to that you are about
to make. The shapes of the letters or figures can be learned from an
inspection of any common sampler.
638. _Piping._--This is much used in ornamenting children's and other
dresses. It is made by enclosing a card of the proper thickness in a
strip of silk cut crosswise, and must be put on as evenly as possible.
639. _Plaiting._--The plaits must be as even as it is possible to
place them one against another. In double plaiting, they lie both
ways, and meet in the middle.
640. _To keep Thread, Sewing-silk, &c._--In making up linen, thread
is much preferable to cotton. Sewing-silk should be folded up neatly
in wash-leather, and colored threads and cotton in paper, as the air
and light are likely to injure them. Buttons, hooks and eyes, and
all metal implements, when not in use, should be kept folded up, as
exposure to the air not only tarnishes them, but is likely to injure
them in a variety of ways.
INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE-LINEN.
641. _Bedroom Linen._--This includes quilts, blankets, sheets,
pillow-covers, towels, table-covers and pincushion-covers.
642. _Quilts._--These are of various sizes and qualities, in
accordance with the purposes to which they are applied. They are
generally made of the outside material and the lining--wadding
or flannel being laid between--and stitched in diamonds or other
devices. The stitches must pass through the whole, and the edges of
the quilt are to be secured by a braiding or binding proper for the
purpose. They are best done in a frame.
643. _Blankets._--These are generally bought, ready-prepared for
use. It is sometimes necessary to work over the edges at the end,
which should be done with scarlet worsted, in a very wide kind of
button-hole stitch.
644. _Sheets._--These are made of fine linen, coarse linen, and
cotton-sheeting. Linen sheets are best for summer, and many prefer
them at all seasons. If the sheeting is not sufficiently wide for the
bed, two lengths must be sewed together. The seam up the middle must
be sewed as neatly as possible, and the ends may be either hemmed or
seamed: the latter is the preferable method. Sheets and all bedroom
linen should be marked and numbered; to add the date of the year is
also an advantage.
645. _Pillow-cases._--These are made of fine or coarse linen, and
sometimes of cotton cloth. The material should be of such a width
as to correspond with the length of the pillow. One yard and three
nails, doubled and seamed up, is the proper size. One end is seamed
up, and the other hemmed with a broad hem, and furnished with strings
or buttons as is deemed most convenient. We think the preferable way
of making pillow covers is to procure a material of a sufficient
width, when doubled, to admit the pillow. The selvages are then sewed
together, and the ends seamed and hemmed as before directed. Bolster
covers are made in nearly the same manner, only that a round patch is
let into one end, and a tape for a slot is run into the other.
646. _Towels._--Towels are made of diaper or huckaback, of a quality
adapted to the uses to which they are applicable. They should be one
yard long and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought
single, and are fringed at the ends. Others are neatly hemmed, and
sometimes have a tape-loop attached to them, by which they can be
suspended against a wall.
647. _Dressing Table Covers._--These may be made of any material
that is proper for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but sometimes
dimity and muslin are employed, or the table is covered with a
kind of Marseilles quilting, which is prepared expressly for the
purpose. Sometimes the covers are merely hemmed round, but they
look much neater if fringed, or bordered with a moderately full
frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All depends upon taste
and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance, in accordance with the
furniture of the apartment, should be especially regarded.
648. _Pincushion Covers._--A large pincushion, having two covers
belonging to it, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are
merely a bag into which the cushion is slipped. They may be either
worked or plain; always of white muslin or linen cambric; and should
have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all round.
649. _Table Linen._--This department of plain needlework comprises
table-cloths, dinner-napkins, and large and small tray napkins.
650. _Table-cloths._--These may be purchased either singly, or cut
from the piece. In the latter case the ends should be hemmed as
neatly as possible, and marked and numbered.
651. _Dinner Napkins._--These are of various materials; if cut from
the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table-cloths.
Large and small tray napkins and knife-box cloths, are made in the
same manner. The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It
is a pretty and light employment for very young ladies; little girls
even should do this work, and thus early acquire habits of neatness
and usefulness, which will prove useful in after life.
652. _Housemaid and Kitchen Linen._--In the housemaid's department,
paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber bottle cloths, fine and
soft, are to be provided. To these must be added dusters, flannels
for scouring, chamber bucket-cloths, which last should be of a kind
and color different from everything else. All these must be neatly
hemmed and run, or seamed if necessary. Nothing, in a well-directed
family, should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume
an untidy appearance.
653. _Clothes-bags._--Clothes-bags of different sizes should also be
provided, of two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in
which case only one seam will be required, or of two breadths, which
makes the bags more suitable for large articles of clothing. These
bags are to be seamed up neatly at the bottom, and to have strings
which will draw run in at the top. The best material is canvas, or
strong unbleached linen. In the kitchen department, you will require
both table and dresser cloths, which should be made as neat as
possible.
654. _Mending._--In cutting up an old garment, it is a great
advantage to have a portion of the same material new. For this
reason, when purchasing cloth for a new garment, buy a little
additional quantity for repairs, and take care that it is kept for
that purpose, and not wasted in any way.
It was formerly the custom with all careful women, when buying a
dress, to buy an extra yard for new sleeving. To be sure a gown was
then more expensive than now; but it should be remembered, that if
six gowns can be bought for the money that used to buy three or
four, they cannot be made up in the same time at home, nor for the
same money if put out. Any tolerably handy woman, though she may not
choose to venture upon cutting out and making a new dress, may repair
one, having the old pattern and lining to work by, and the very
creases and stitches for a guide. If, by so doing, a gown will wear
half as long again, the price of a little over-quantity at first, and
a few hours employed on the work, are well bestowed.
The same remark applies to the garments of men. Unless these be
bought ready-made, the pieces should be carefully laid by for
repairs. In children's clothing, these alterations and repairs are
often needed.
655. _Patchwork._--Many improvements may be made in patchwork that
most of us have been accustomed to see for years. It is a kind
of needlework very interesting for little girls; and old ladies
frequently resort to this for amusement by their cosy firesides,
during the long winter evenings, when tired of reading.
656. _Of the Materials._--_The materials_ necessary for patchwork
are such portions of wearing apparel, whether cloth, calico, linen,
holland, silk, velvet, cotton, &c., such as would otherwise be thrown
away, or saved for the rag-man. No matter how small the portion,
every scrap has its use. The next necessary article is some stiff
paper--old envelopes, backs of letters, brown paper, &c., to form the
shapes; lastly, the design--shapes, cut out in _tin_, and the designs
themselves.
The materials should be arranged into shades and qualities. After
having been cut to required sizes, and the irregularities of the
edges neatly repaired, they are ready for use.
657. _Patterns._--The _patterns_ may be varied _ad infinitum_, if the
person possesses the least talent for drawing; but for the sake of
those who may not be able to do this, we submit the following simple
and effective designs to be executed in any of the materials.
658. _To make the Patchwork._--The pattern should be placed before
the person, and the shades being selected, the several pieces
arranged so as to form the design, and the edges then neatly sewed
together; after which they are either pressed, or ironed, the papers
removed, and the lining proceeded with.
When silks and velvets are employed, it improves the effect to
combine the two, taking the silk for the lighter, and the velvet for
the darker shades; or, as in figures 5, 6, 8, and 11, to have silk
for the lighter shades, and two velvets for the others, shaded to
pattern.
A very pretty effect is produced by combining Holland and calico,
silk and satin, silk or satin and velvet, and rough and fine cloth.
_The various articles_ that may be manufactured, are quilts in
colored and white calico; anti-macassars in silks; ottomans in silks
and velvets, silks and cloth; table-covers in silks and cloth;
cushions for chairs or sofas, in silks; and mats, rugs, and carpets,
in cloth.
We have seen many useful white quilts for children's cots, made
from the cuttings remaining after shirt making. The centre might be
of Holland and calico, pattern 10, fig. 5, and then fig. 7, with
a fringe border, knitted. Numerous rugs might be made in colored
cloths, to look equal to carpets, for poor people, and wear much
better.
[Illustration: Figs. 1-6]
[Illustration: Figs. 7-11]
[Illustration: AN ELEGANT MUSNUD FOR A SOFA.]
659. _The materials_ required, consist of braid of various hues,
purse-silk of different shades, bed-ticking, feathers, down,
horse-hair, or worsted ends; the design-shapes, some cord for
pipings, the various colored cloths, silks, &c., and a curtain-ring
or a piece of cardboard for the centre.
_The size_ varies from fifteen to eighteen inches in diameter,
according to taste.
_The colors_ cannot be fixed, because it depends much upon taste,
but we have made the elegant musnud given p. 160, by placing cobalt
as the right hand centre-piece, then (proceeding from right to left)
white, salmon, purple, crimson, amber, pea-green, and madder-brown.
The handles are amber, the side brown, and the back purple.
It is better, in combining or arranging all colors for patchwork,
to keep as near as possible to the harmony observed by Nature;
therefore, to attend to the same order displayed in the case of a
refracted ray of light, viz., violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow,
orange, and red, adding, in this case, white, to represent the ray in
its natural state before refraction or dispersion of its colors took
place.
_To make the Musnud._--Cut two circles of fifteen or eighteen inches
in diameter in bed-ticking, and a strip of the same material three
inches deep, and thrice the length of the diameter; make into the
usual shape, and stuff with feathers, down, horse-hair, or the refuse
ends of worsted. Cut out two handles as in the design, of the same
material, and sew them on. Rub the _inside_ of the bed-ticking with a
lump of bees'-wax previous to making up the musnud, (as it prevents
the feathers and dust working through,) and tack the centre down.
Cut out the back in a piece of purple moreen, or any other material,
then cut four strips of brown cashmere, each three inches deep and
five long, join these neatly together to form the side, and braid the
following design in bright yellow on it, finishing the veining of the
leaves in chain-stitch with purse silk.
The wedge-shaped pieces should now be cut out in the various colored
cloths, &c., and braided as in the design, four being braided with
floral, and four with fancy designs. Each piece should measure nine
inches in length and six inches and three-quarters in breadth at the
outer part. The centre piece should measure two inches and a quarter
in diameter, be of a dark brown, and braided with a bright yellow
star.
_To cover the musnud_, sew the pieces neatly together, and cover the
joining with narrow strips of dark brown cloth, braided in bright
yellow to resemble a chain; cover the curtain ring, or circular piece
of card-board, with the central piece, and sew it on.
Now affix the pipings cut crossways out of brown cloth, and cover the
handles with amber-colored material, braid and pipe them; join the
back to the side with an intervening piping, slip the musnud into the
lower covering, and sew on the top.
In _braiding_ the patterns, the purple ground should have a scarlet
braid.
The brown, yellow.
In finishing the braiding, it will require the occasional aid of some
chain-stitch work in purse-silk, for the veinings of the leaves,
stamens, tendrils, &c.
_Note._--This particularity in arranging _colors and patterns_
may seem very trifling to some people; but rules are required in
all finished work. Habits of attention are an important part of
education, or, rather, are indispensable to a well-trained mind.
Therefore, we say, be particular to do all you undertake in a proper
manner; and if you are making _patchwork_, aim at perfection of its
kind. But never fall in love with your own creations, and worship
them as idols; and never neglect common household duties for fanciful
needlework. Remember, also, that _reading_ is more refining to the
taste than finger-work; and that to _read well_ is a much higher
accomplishment than any mere skill in counting stitches and matching
shades.
FOR SILK EMBROIDERY.
660. _Useful Patterns for working in Cord, Silk, and Muslin._--These
are what are called "endless patterns," to be worked in cord.
These fashions for embroidering the borders of cloaks, pelisses,
sacques, &c., on merino, or fine cassimere, or flannel, with silk,
are to be wrought with coarse or fine silk, or with a mixture of the
two, according to the degree of intricacy or simplicity in the parts
of the pattern.
We give two designs; from these, other combinations may be made, to
suit the fancy of the embroiderer.
[Illustration: (Two 'Endless Patterns' for borders of cloaks etc.)]
SILK EMBROIDERY, ANOTHER WAY.
_See p. 164._
661.--In these patterns for embroidering the borders of cloaks,
pelisses, sacques, &c., on merino, or fine cassimere, or flannel,
with silk, are to be wrought with coarse or fine silk, or with
a mixture of the two, according to the degree of intricacy or
simplicity in the parts of the pattern.
These patterns are equally serviceable for muslin, or any other
material.
No. 1, to be worked on fine flannel or merino, with a mixture of
coarse and fine silk.
No. 2, to be worked on flannel or merino, with fine silk.
[Illustration: No. 1. No. 2.]
662. _Sewing on glazed Calico._--By passing a cake of white soap
a few times over a piece of glazed calico, or any other stiffened
material, the needle will penetrate as easily as through any other
kind of work.
663. _To make Glass Jars to look like China._--Paint figures to
resemble those in China jars, and cut them out so that none of the
white paper remains; then, with thick gum-arabic water, fasten them
to the inside of the glass. Let them stand to dry for twenty-four
hours. Then wipe off with a wet cloth the gum-arabic on the glass
between the prints, and let them stand a few hours longer. Then take
white wax and flake white, ground very fine, and melt them together.
With a japanning-brush go over all the glass above the prints: done
in this manner, they will hold water. For a blue ground, use white
wax and Prussian blue, ground fine; for red, wax and vermilion, or
carmine; for green, wax and verdigris; for chocolate, wax and burnt
umber.
664. _To give Plaster Figures the appearance of Marble._--Put into a
well-glazed earthen vessel, four pounds of clear water and one ounce
of pure curd soap, grated; add one ounce of white bees'-wax, cut into
thin slices. Let them dissolve over a slow fire. As soon as the whole
is incorporated, it is fit for use. Let the figure be thoroughly
dried, then suspend it by a twine, and dip it once into the varnish;
upon taking it out, the varnish will appear to have been absorbed; in
two minutes' time, stir the compost, and dip it a second time, which
is generally sufficient. Cover it carefully from the dust for a week;
then, with a soft muslin rag, rub the figure gently, when a most
brilliant gloss will be produced.
665. _To improve Plaster Casts._--Brush them over with size, and,
when dry, varnish them with copal varnish.
666. _To dissolve Putty._--To remove old putty from glazed frames,
brush over it pearlash and slaked stone-burnt lime, mixed to the
thickness of paint.
ANGLO-JAPANESE WORK.
[Illustration: (Example of Anglo-Japanese work; a jewellry box).]
667. This elegant and most useful work is very easy in its execution,
while the means and appliances for its performance are within the
reach of every one. The materials are simply yellow withered leaves,
a little dissolved gum, black paint, and copal varnish: while the
objects to be ornamented may be a box, cupboard, table, &c., in fact,
any old furniture that has been rendered unsightly by age or long
use. A plain deal box, costing about a shilling, may by this process,
so far as the outside goes, be converted into a costly-looking
dressing-case. An exquisite chess-board may be made, with very
little skill, from a square piece of deal. Flower-pots, pole-screens,
folding and hand-screens, may all be decorated in this manner, and,
from untidy-looking lumber, may be converted into articles of use,
elegance, and beauty; and this at a merely nominal expense, _taste_
being the chief requisite in the production. The employment forms one
of the most agreeable and pleasing amusements for summer days and
winter evenings; in the summer, giving a purpose and an aim to many a
joyous ramble, for in these desultory walks a goodly collection may
be made of Nature's ambered jewels.
All leaves that are small, of uneven shape, and serrated at the
edges, are well adapted for this work. As they are collected, they
should be placed between sheets of paper, but not close together,
then pressed by placing a board on the top, with a weight upon it, to
express any moisture that may be therein, and to render them quite
flat. In the autumn, the sweet-scented geranium-leaves, the maple,
thorn, chrysanthemum, wild parsley, fern, and a multitude of others,
may be found, including the smaller sycamore and small vine-leaves;
but they must all have turned of a golden hue, or reddish-tinted
yellow. Prepare the article to be ornamented, thus:--First rub the
surface smoothly down with sand-paper; then coat it over with black
paint, which can be procured, ready-mixed, at any oil-shop; when dry,
rub it down smoothly with pumice-stone, and give two more coats.
When these are dry, arrange the leaves on the surface in a careless
manner, but not in groups, unless preferred. Butterflies drawn, and
colored yellow with gamboge, or cut out of prints, and then colored,
may be stuck at different spaces with advantage; but there should
be no other color than the brown and different tints of yellow in
the leaves. Gum the wrong side of the leaf, and press it on in its
appointed place with a hard tuft of wadding, fastened tightly up in a
piece of silk. Continue this with the whole of the leaves; and when
they are all gummed on, dissolve some gelatine or isinglass in warm
water, and while rather warm, brush it well over every portion of the
work, using the brush entirely one way, not forward and back. When
dry, give the work three coats of the best copal varnish, letting the
article remain a day or two between each coat. This process, though
elaborate in detail, is easily and even quickly done, and will well
repay any trouble that may be taken, as, with a renewed coat of
varnish every five or six years, it will remain, as long as the wood
will hold together, as bright in appearance as when first finished.
668. _Sealing Wax Varnish._--For fancy work, this has, of late years,
been much used, and if well applied, and the wax good, will be a very
good imitation of India Japan. The method of making the varnish or
japan is very easy, being simply reducing the wax to a coarse powder,
and pouring the best spirits of wine on it in a bottle, and letting
it gradually dissolve without heat, shaking the bottle occasionally
till it is all dissolved. A two-ounce stick of the best wax will
be enough for a quarter of a pint of spirits. Recollect that much
depends on the goodness of the sealing-wax; and that you may vary the
color of the varnish by using different colored wax. As this varnish
dries very quickly, it should not be made until it is wanted for use.
669. _Method of preparing the Composition used for Colored Drawings
and Prints, so as to make them resemble Paint in Oil._--Take of
Canada Balsam, one ounce; spirit of turpentine, two ounces; mix them
together. Before this composition is applied, the drawing or print
should be sized with a solution of isinglass in water, and when dry,
apply the varnish with a camel-hair brush.
670. _Oil and Water Gilding._--In oil gilding, the frame is first
covered with a composition of whiting and parchment size, then with
a coating of "_oil gold size_," (a kind of varnish,) upon which when
nearly dry, gold leaf is applied.
671. _In Water Gilding_, a size mixed with _water_ is used. Parts
of the frame are burnished, other parts left _dead_. This is the
most beautiful and expensive style of gilding, but it does not bear
washing as oil gilding does.
["The Carver and Gilder," published by Knight, furnishes much useful
information on this subject.]
672. _To mount Prints or Maps._--Upon a table, floor, or board,
stretch a piece of calico or smooth canvas, by first fixing it with
tacks along one side, then straining it tightly with one hand, and
driving the tacks with the other: nail the remaining edges, leaving
no wrinkles on the surface. Paste the back of the print or map, fold
it together, and let it remain until the paper is _soaked_, then open
it, and place it evenly on the canvas, cover it with a sheet of clean
paper, and beginning in the middle, rub it down carefully with the
hand, going from the centre all round to the edges, until all the air
is excluded, and the paper adheres closely to the canvas. When quite
dry, with a large camel-hair brush lay on a coating of parchment
size, repeating this when dry: then varnish with mastic varnish.
Parchment size is made by boiling parchment cuttings in water, until
it forms a jelly when cold. Mastic varnish may be procured at oil and
color-shops.
673. _New Camera Lucida._--Sir John Robinson devised, a few years
since, a cheap and easily-used camera lucida, applicable to the
delineation of flowers and other small objects. A piece of plate
glass is made to stand in a vertical position by means of a support.
It rests on a table covered with white paper, and the object is
placed on the paper on one side of the glass. On looking down from
that side of the glass diagonally, an image of the object is seen on
the paper on the other side, and a drawing of it can be readily taken.
674. _Varnish for Oil Pictures._--According to the number of your
pictures, take the whites of the same number of eggs, and an equal
number of pieces of sugar-candy, the size of a hazel-nut, dissolved,
and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy; beat the whites of your
eggs to a froth, and let it settle; take the clear, put it to your
brandy and sugar, mix them well together, and varnish over your
pictures with it.
This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily washed
off when your pictures want cleaning again.
675. _To take Impressions of Butterflies' Wings._--Lay the wings
gently on paper, wet with gum arabic water, and nearly dry; a copy
will be left when the wing is removed, but inferior in beauty to the
wing itself. It is better to gum the wings themselves on paper, and
paint the body of the fly in its natural position.
676. _To preserve the Eggs of Birds._--First clean them of their
contents. This may be done with the larger eggs by making a hole
on one side large enough to admit a quill, and shaking out the
contents. Then wash them well with a solution of camphor, not too
strong, or it will make them brittle. When dry, fasten them with gum
on the side in which the hole was made to a piece of card board,
and write the name under each. As the colors of many of them are
perishable, to preserve them give them a slight coating of varnish.
The best varnish for this purpose is isinglass dissolved in gin. In
cleaning the smaller eggs, make a hole at each end, a little to one
side, and blow them. The camphor solution need not be used.
677. _To make Artificial Coral._--Melt together four parts of yellow
resin and one part of vermilion. Dip twigs, cinders or stones in
this, and when dry they will resemble coral.
678. _An Excellent Pen-Wiper for Steel Pens._--Fill a short,
wide-mouthed vial with shot, the smaller the better. Whenever it is
necessary to clean the pen, rub it up and down in the shot. This
is much more effectual than cloth wipers, and the shot will last a
life-time.
679. _To preserve Steel Pens._--Metallic pens may be preserved from
rusting by throwing into the bottle containing the ink a few nails,
or broken pieces of steel pens, if not varnished. The corrosive
action of the acid which the ink contains is expended on the iron so
introduced, and will not therefore affect the pen.
680. _Black Paper for drawing Patterns._--Mix and smooth lamp-black
and sweet oil; with a bit of flannel cover a sheet or two of large
writing-paper with this mixture; then dab the paper dry with a bit of
fine linen, and keep it by for using in the following manner:--Put
the black side on another sheet of paper, and fasten the corners
together with small pins. Lay on the back of the black paper the
pattern to be drawn, and go over it with the point of a steel pencil;
the black paper will then leave the impression of the pattern on the
under sheet, on which you must draw it with ink.
If you draw patterns on cloth or muslin, do it with a pen dipped in a
bit of stone blue, a bit of sugar, and a little water, mixed smooth
in a teacup, in which it will be always ready for use, if fresh: wet
to a due consistence as wanted.
681. _To make Transparent Paper for Drawing._--Tracing paper is
readily made by taking a sheet of very thin silk, or other paper,
and rubbing it over gently with some soft substance, filled with a
mixture of equal parts of drying oil, and oil of turpentine, which,
being suspended and dried, will be fit for use in a few days; or
it may be had at any of the shops. Lay this transparent material
on the print or drawing to be transferred, and, with a sharp black
lead pencil, trace the outlines exactly as they appear through the
paper. If more permanent or stronger lines are wished, ink mixed with
ox-gall will be necessary to make it adhere to the oiled surface.
682. _Transparent Paper._--Wet some fine paper with a feather on both
sides with a thin layer of rosin, dissolved in spirits of wine. It
will then serve to put over anything you wish to take off.
683. _Method of using Tracing Paper._--Take a piece of the size
required, and rub it equally over, on one side, with black lead,
reduced to a powder, till the surface will not readily soil a finger;
then lay a piece of white paper with the leaded side of this paper
next to it, under the print, and securing them firmly together with
pins at the corners, proceed to take the outlines with a blunt point,
and some degree of pressure, which will transfer the lead to the
clean paper precisely in the direction the point passed over the
print; this may be corrected with the black lead pencil, and cleansed
of any soil by the crumbs of stale bread.
684. _Method of setting Pencil Drawings._--A solution of alum water,
in which the drawing is to be dipped (not washed on with a brush, as
it would smear) will answer the purpose extremely well.
685. _Wash for preserving Drawings made with Black Lead Pencil, or
with hard Black Chalk._--A thin wash of isinglass will fix either
black lead or hard black chalk, &c., so as to prevent their rubbing
out; or the same effect may be produced by the simple application
of skimmed milk. The best way of using the latter, is, to lay the
drawing flat upon the surface of the milk, and then, taking it up
expeditiously, to hang it by the one corner till it drains and dries.
The milk must be perfectly free from cream, or it will grease the
paper.
686. _To make Red Sealing Wax._--To every ounce of shell-lac
take half an ounce each of resin and vermilion, all reduced to a
fine powder. Melt them over a moderate fire; and when thoroughly
incorporated and sufficiently cool, form the composition into what
are called sticks. On account of the dearness of shell-lac, seed-lac
is usually substituted. A more ordinary sort, but sufficiently good
for most occasions, may be made by mixing equal parts of resin and
shell-lac with two parts of red lead and one of vermilion. In a still
commoner sort, the vermilion is often entirely omitted.
MARKING INK.
687. Mix in six drachms of distilled water, two drachms of
sub-nitrate of silver, and two drachms of gum-arabic. For the
mordant, mix with four ounces of water, half an ounce of gum-arabic,
and half an ounce of sub-carbonate of soda. The article to be marked
should first be wetted with the mordant, and pressed smooth, and
should be thoroughly dried before it is written upon. The mark should
be exposed to the light for some time, to become black.
688. _Permanent Red Ink for marking Linen._--This useful preparation,
which was contrived by Dr. Smellie, of Edinburgh, who was originally
a printer in that city, may be used either with types, a hair pencil,
or even with a pen: Take half an ounce of vermillion, and a drachm of
salt of steel; let them be finely levigated with linseed oil, to the
thickness or limpidity required for the occasion. This has not only
a very good appearance, but will, it is said, be found perfectly to
resist the effects of acids, as well as of all alkaline leys. It may
be made of other colors, by substituting the proper articles instead
of vermillion.
689. _An Indelible Ink for marking Linen._--Pour a little aqua-fortis
into a cup, and add to it a small piece of pure silver; when the
effervescence ceases, filter the solution through a piece of
blotting-paper, and put it into a small phial; then add to it a
little gum-arabic and a little of the paint, called sap-green. After
the whole is perfectly combined it is then fit for use.
690. _To take out Writing._--When recently written, ink may be
completely removed by the oxymuriatic acid (concentrated and in
solution). The paper is to be washed over repeatedly with the acid;
but it will be necessary afterwards to wash it also with lime-water,
for the purpose of neutralizing any acid that may be left on the
paper, and which would considerably weaken it. But if the ink have
been _long_ written, it will have undergone such a change as to
prevent the preceding process from taking effect. It ought therefore
to be washed with liver of sulphur (sulphuret of ammonia), before the
oxymuriatic acid is applied. It may be washed with a hair pencil.
691. _To make Old Writing legible._--Take six bruised gall-nuts, and
put them to a pint of strong white wine; let it stand in the sun for
forty-eight hours. Dip a brush in it and wash the writing, and by the
color you will discover whether the mixture is strong enough of the
galls.
692. _Sympathetic Ink._--With a clean pen write on paper with a
solution of muriate of cobalt, so diluted with water, that the
writing when dry will be invisible. On gently warming the paper,
the writing will appear of a blue or greenish color, which will
disappear again when cool. A solution of muriate of copper forms a
yellow and sympathetic ink, and acetate of cobalt a rose or purple.
If a landscape be drawn representing a winter scene, the paper being
overlaid where the foliage should be with the green sympathetic ink,
then, on gently warming the drawing, it will represent summer. Sky
and water may be drawn with the blue, and standing corn with the
yellow ink.
693. _Blue Ink._--Dissolve a small quantity of indigo in a little
oil of vitriol, and add a sufficient quantity of water, in which
gum-arabic has been dissolved.
694. _Yellow Ink._--Dissolve gamboge in a solution of gum-arabic.
695. _Scarlet Ink._--Dissolve vermilion in a solution of gum-arabic.
696. _Red Ink._--Boil one ounce of Brazil wood in half-a-pint of
water for a quarter of an hour; add to the decoction three drachms of
gum-arabic, and an ounce of alum.
697. _Green Ink._--Verdigris, two ounces; cream of tartar, one ounce;
water, half a pint; boil till reduced to one half, and filter.
698. _Excellent Writing Ink._--Boil eight ounces of galls in coarse
powder, and four ounces of logwood in thin chips, in twelve pints of
rain water, for one hour: strain the liquor, and add four ounces of
green copperas, three ounces of powdered gum-arabic, one ounce of
blue vitriol, and one ounce of rock candy, powdered; stir the mixture
until the whole be dissolved, then let it subside twenty-four hours;
decant it very steadily, and put it into stone bottles for use.
A clove kept in it will prevent it from becoming mouldy.
699. _Black Ink._--To make one gallon, take of pounded blue nutgalls
one pound; copperas, six ounces; gum common, four ounces; soft water,
one gallon. Dissolve the gum separately by the fire, and add, after
it has boiled a quarter of an hour. Let the ink be boiled over a slow
fire three-quarters of an hour.
700. _To make Ink._--To four ounces of bruised galls, allow two of
copperas and two of gum-arabic; put the galls into a large bottle,
with three pints of rain water; and, in three or four days, dissolve
the gum in hot water, and add it with the copperas. Shake the bottle
frequently for some days. A few cloves may be put into the bottle, to
prevent the ink from moulding.
701. _Ink Powder._--Take five ounces of the cleanest nutgalls, bruise
them, and sift the powder very fine; then add one ounce of white
copperas, two ounces of Roman vitriol, gum-arabic, half an ounce;
pound and sift them very fine. An ounce of this powder will make a
pint of very black ink.
702. _To prevent Ink from moulding._--Half-a-dozen cloves, bruised
with gum-arabic, are to be put into the bottle. If a very fine ink is
wanted, white wine, or vinegar and water, should be used, instead of
water alone.
703. _To make Indian Ink._--Put six lighted wicks into a dish of oil;
hang an iron or tin concave cover over it, so as to receive all the
smoke; when there is a sufficient quantity of soot settled to the
cover, then take it off gently with a feather upon a sheet of paper,
and mix it up with gum-tragacanth to a proper consistence.
N. B. The clearest oil makes the finest soot, consequently the best
ink.
704. _Indian Ink._--Take horse-beans, burn them till they are
perfectly black, grind them to a fine powder, and, with weak
gum-arabic water make it into a paste, and form it into long square
cakes.
705. _To make China Ink._--Take dried black horse-beans, burn them
to a powder, mix them up with gum-arabic water, and bring them to a
mass; press it well, and let it dry.
MANAGEMENT OF CANARY-BIRDS.
706. Canary-birds, that are kept tame, will breed three or four
times in the year. Towards the middle of March, begin to match
your birds, putting one cock and hen into the breeding-cage, which
should be large, so that the birds may have room to fly and exercise
themselves. Place two boxes or little basket-nests in the cage, for
the hen to lay her eggs in, because she will sometimes have a second
brood before the first are fit to fly, leaving the care of them
to the father-bird, who feeds and brings them up with much care,
while she is sitting on her second nest of eggs. Whilst your birds
are pairing, feed them, besides the usual seeds, with the yolks of
hard-boiled eggs, bread that has been moistened, or, if hard, grated
fine, and pounded almond-meat. When the young birds are to be fed,
give the same soft food, and be sure have it fresh every day; also
furnish the old birds with fresh greens, such as cabbage-lettuce,
chick weed, groundsel, &c. Give fresh water every day, and a clean
bath every morning. The hen lays, commonly, four or five eggs, and
sits fourteen days. When the young are hatched, leave them to the
care of the old birds, to nurse and bring up till they can fly and
feed themselves, which is, usually, in about twenty days.
707. _Gold and Silver Fish._--Pure rain-water is best to keep these
delicate little creatures in; they should never be put into water
that has been boiled. It is a good plan to throw them in the morning
into a large bowl of fresh water, with a few bread-crumbs in it, and
let them remain there an hour. Then put them in pure fresh water in
their vases. The water should be changed every day. If the bread
remains in the water to become sour, it will kill the fish.
708. _Improvement in the management of Bees._--The improvement is
that of having double skeps or hives, the one on the top of the
other. When the lower skep is filled with honey, it is to be removed
after the bees are admitted (through a passage which is made to be
opened) into the upper skep; into this skep food must be put, and
the bees will remain there, and go on with their work in it. When
it is filled with honey, the former skep, with food in it, may be
replaced, and the bees again admitted into it. The full skep is then
to be taken away. This change of the skeps must always be made about
midsummer; and by thus annually removing the full one, more honey
will be collected than is usual, and the bees will not be destroyed.
709. _To preserve Flowers in Water._--Mix a little carbonate of soda
with the water, and it will preserve the flowers for a fortnight.
Common saltpetre is also a good preservative.
710. _To preserve Flowers in Winter._--Take the latest buds just as
they are ready to open; cut them off, leaving the stem about three
inches long; cover the end of the stem with melted sealing-wax, and
when the buds are a little withered, wrap them separately in paper,
and place them in a dry box. When you wish to have the buds blossom,
cut off the sealed end, and put them into water in which a little
saltpetre has been dissolved. In twelve hours the buds will be open.
711. _To take Impressions of Leaves._--Dissolve in a saucerful
of water about a tea-spoonful of bichromate of potash. Pass the
paper to be used through this solution, and, while wet, press the
leaves lightly upon it, and expose it to the sun when it is shining
brightly. When perfectly dry, remove the leaves, and a _fac-simile_
will be left in a light lemon shade, while the rest of the paper will
be of a dark brown.
712. _To preserve the natural color in Petals of dried
Flowers._--Immerse the petals for some minutes in alcohol. The
colors will fade at first, but in a short time they will resume,
permanently, their natural tint.
713. _To revive faded Flowers._--Nearly all flowers may be revived,
when faded, by placing one-third of the stalks in hot water; when it
has become cold, the flowers will be re-set and fresh; the end of the
stalks should then be cut off and the flowers put into cold water.
Or, dip flowers in spirits of wine for twenty minutes; at first they
will appear to have entirely faded; but in drying, the colors will
revive, and the fragrance be prolonged.
A few grains of salt put into the water with flowers, will keep them
from fading.
Sand may be substituted for water.
Flowers may be preserved throughout the winter, if plucked when they
are half-blown, dipped, stalks downward, in equal quantities of water
and verjuice mixed, and sprinkled with bay salt. They should be kept
in an earthenware vessel, closely covered, and in a warm place; when,
in mid-winter, if the flowers be taken out, washed in cold water, and
held before a gentle fire, they will open as if in their first bloom.
714. _To paint Cloth, Cambric, Sarcenet, &c., so as to render them
Transparent._--Grind to a fine powder three pounds of clear white
resin, and put it into two pounds of good nut-oil, to which a strong
drying quality has been given: set the mixture over a moderate fire,
and keep stirring it till all the resin is dissolved; then put in two
pounds of the best Venice turpentine, and keep stirring the whole
well together; and if the cloth or cambric be thoroughly varnished
on both sides with this mixture, it will be quite transparent. In
this operation, the surface upon which the varnish is to be applied,
must be stretched tight and made fast during the application. This
mode of rendering cloth, &c. transparent, is excellently adapted
for window-blinds. The varnish will likewise admit of any design in
oil-colors being executed upon it as a transparency.
715. _Varnish to prevent the rays of the Sun from passing through
the glasses of Windows._--Pulverize gum-tragacanth, and put it to
dissolve for twenty-four hours in whites of eggs, well beaten. Lay a
coat of this on the panes of your windows, with a soft brush, and let
it dry.
716. _To stain paper or parchment Yellow._--Paper may be stained of
a beautiful yellow, by the tincture of turmeric, formed by infusing
an ounce or more of the root, powdered, in a pint of spirit of
wine. This, by the addition of water, may be made to give any tint
of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full color called French
yellow, and will be equal in brightness even to the best dyed silks.
If yellow is wanted of a warmer or redder cast, anotta, or dragon's
blood, must be added to the tincture.
717. _To stain paper or parchment Crimson._--A very fine crimson
stain may be given to paper, by a tincture of the Indian lake, which
may be made by infusing the lake some days in spirit of wine, and
then pouring off the tincture from the dregs.
718. _To stain paper or parchment Green._--Paper or parchment may
be stained green by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or by the
crystals of verdigris dissolved in water; also by the solution of
copper in aquafortis, made by adding filings of copper, gradually, to
the aquafortis, till no ebullition ensues; or, the spirit of salt may
be substituted for the aquafortis.
HOUSE-PLANTS.
719. Plants require much light and fresh air; a light garret is
an excellent place for them; even those which will not bear the
outer air, must have the air of the room frequently freshened by
ventilation, to preserve them in health. They should not stand in a
draught of air. In frosty weather the windows should be kept close,
and at night, the shutters. In sharp frost, instead of stirring out
the fire, leave a little on retiring to rest, with a guard before it
for security.
As a general rule, never water plants while the sun shines. The time
should be in the evening, or early in the morning, unless it be
confined to watering the roots, in which case transplanted plants,
and others in a growing state, may be watered at any time; and, if
they are shaded from the sun, they may also be watered over the tops.
The water, if taken from a well or cold spring, should be exposed one
day to the sun, otherwise it will chill the plants. A small quantity
only should be applied at a time, that it may have the effect of
refreshing rain.
Rain water is the best for plants; next river water; hard spring
water is the worst.
720. _To air Plants, and ventilate Rooms wherein they are
contained._--Plants should have air, every day in the year, to make
them grow well; but this matter, in sitting-rooms, will not of course
be regulated for their sakes, especially in the colder seasons.
Wherever placed, however, some attention should be paid to airing
and ventilating the rooms regularly, by opening the windows, and
occasionally the doors, in order to excite a free circulation of air.
This should be done to a certain extent every day, according to the
state of the weather, except in the time of severe frost, when it
would not be advisable to admit external air. But at such times, if
bad weather be of long continuance, the rooms may be ventilated by
means of the doors, and by exciting a current of air in the passages,
or other parts of the house.
In very severe frost, or in a continuation of damp weather, moderate
fires should be made for the sake of the plants, if placed in rooms
not occupied. The window shutters should also be closed at night.
721. _Hints to Lovers of Flowers._--A most beautiful and
easily-attained show of evergreens may be had by a very simple plan,
which has been found to answer remarkably well on a small scale. If
geranium branches taken from luxuriant and healthy trees, just before
the winter sets in, be cut as for slips, and immersed in soap-water,
they will, after drooping for a few days, shed their leaves, put
forth fresh ones; and continue in the finest vigor all the winter. By
placing a number of bottles thus filled in a flower-basket, with moss
to conceal the bottles, a show of evergreens is easily insured for
the whole season. They require no fresh water.
722. _Bulbous Roots._--The time to put bulbous roots, as the
hyacinth, narcissus, and jonquil, into glasses filled with water,
is from September to November, and the earliest will begin blooming
about Christmas. The glasses should be blue, as that color best
suits the roots; put in water enough to cover the bulb one third; let
the water be soft, change it once a week, and put in a pinch of salt
at each change. Keep the glasses in a moderately warm place, and near
to the light.
They should have fresh water about once in ten days. The leaves
should not be plucked off before they decay, or the root will be
deprived of much of its natural nourishment. When they have decayed,
the bulbs should be taken up, laid in the shade to dry, cleaned,
and kept in sand in a dry place till wanted to replant. The offsets
should be taken off, and planted according to size.
723. _Geraniums._--The shrubby kinds are commonly increased by
cuttings, which, if planted in June or July, and placed in the shade,
will take root in five weeks. They are the most tender, and when
placed out of doors, should be defended from strong winds, and be so
placed as to enjoy the sun till eleven o'clock in the morning. As the
shrubby kinds grow fast, so as to fill the pots with their roots, and
push them through the opening at the bottom, they should be moved
every two or three weeks in summer, and the fresh roots cut off. They
should also be newly potted twice in the summer: once about a month
after they are placed abroad, and again towards the end of August.
When this is done, all the roots outside the earth should be pared
off, and as much of the old earth removed as can be done without
injuring the plants. They should then be planted in a larger pot;
some fresh earth should first be laid at the bottom, and on that the
plant should be placed, so that the old earth adhering to it may be
about an inch below the rim of the pot; it should next be filled up,
and the pot slightly shaken: the earth must then be gently pressed
down at the top, leaving a little space for water to be given without
running over the rim; finally, the plant should be liberally watered,
and the stem fastened to a stake, to prevent the wind displacing the
roots before they are newly fixed.
As the branches grow, and new leaves are formed at the top of them,
the lower ones may die, and should be plucked off every week.
Geranium slips should be planted in May, June, or July, taking only
the last year's shoots, from which the leaves must be stripped. When
planted, give them water, and place them in the shade: when they have
taken root, let them have the sun in the morning. The slips chosen
for cutting should not be such as bear flowers; and they should be
inserted about half their length in the earth.
Geraniums, except the shrubby kinds, require shelter from frost only,
and should have free air admitted to them, when the weather is not
very severe. In sultry weather, they should all be watered liberally
every morning, except some few of a succulent nature, which must be
watered sparingly; the latter may be known by plucking a leaf from
them. Geraniums may be watered three times a week, when not frosty,
in winter.
724. _Artificial Mould for Plants._--Russian potash, one drachm;
water, four ounces; one tea-spoonful of oil. Mix the whole well
together. Seeds put in this mixture will grow for a time at least, as
well as if planted in common soil.
725. _To take Impressions of Plants._--Take half a sheet of fine
paper, and cover the surface with sweet oil; let it stand a minute or
two, then rub off the superficial oil, and hang the paper in the air;
when almost dry, move the paper slowly over the flame of a candle or
lamp, till it is perfectly black; lay on it the plant or leaf, place
a piece of clean paper over, and rub it equally with the fingers for
half a minute. Then place the plant on the paper or scrap-book where
it is desired to have the impression, cover it with blotting paper,
and, on repeating the rubbing, a representation of the plant will
appear equal to the finest engraving. The same piece of black paper
will serve for a number of impressions.
726. _Another Process._--Burn a common cork till reduced to powder;
mix with it a tea-spoonful of olive oil, making a thick paste. Paint
the veiny side of the leaf with a camel-hair brush, and lay it, with
the painted side down, on a piece of clean paper. Submit it to a
strong and even pressure (it is best placed in a book and put under
a weight,) for about fifteen minutes; remove the leaf carefully, and
there will be an exact representation left. Very veiny leaves are
best. These impressions are almost equal to engravings. Collections
of them might be made interesting, by having narratives of rambles
written under them, stating the features of the spot from which the
leaves were gathered.
DIRECTIONS FOR WINDOW-PLANTS.
727. _Through January and February._--The summer
flowering-plants--such as geraniums, fuchsias, &c.--should be
kept as nearly dormant as possible, allowing just enough water to
prevent flagging, and all the light that can be spared from the more
interesting division of winter-bloomers; of the latter class, such
things as china-roses, cinerarias, hyacinths and other bulbs, will
now be in an active state, some of them flowering, and others about
to do so; these must be liberally treated with water. Mignonnette,
however, must be excepted. Above everything, keep the leaves clean;
they are few in number, and feeble in action, but they have yet an
important function to perform; and, without they are kept as healthy
as possible, the plant cannot begin a new growth with the vigor it is
desirable it should possess. The pots should be occasionally scrubbed
with clean water, but do not paint or otherwise fill up their pores,
for air is as essential to the roots as to the foliage, and no
inconsiderable quantity finds its way to them through the sides of
a clean pot. With the same view, the surface of the soil should be
frequently stirred; the process keeps it open, prevents the growth
of moss and weeds, and imparts a better appearance. The water given
should always be rather warmer than the atmosphere of the room; and
rain-water, slightly heated, is the best.
728. _March._--The whole of these plants will be benefited by
re-potting. Geraniums and fuchsias delight in light rich earth;
calceolarias (lady's slipper), roses, the chimney campanula, and
others which grow as freely, should have a larger proportion of loam;
whatever manure is added for either, must be thoroughly decayed. The
pots should be perfectly clean, inside and out; take care to have
each properly drained with pieces of slate or potsherds, in size and
number proportionate to the pot; the larger ones require from one to
three inches of this drainage. In removing the plants, take off the
matted fibres with a knife; loosen the soil moderately, and, when
in its place, press the new earth tightly round it; give a gentle
watering, and keep them rather warm for a few days; afterwards they
should have plenty of air on fine days, and water as they become
dry. Station each where it may receive the direct light, and pay
particular attention to keeping the leaves clean.
729. _April._--On the attention given through this month, most of
the success for the season will depend. The plants are now, or ought
to be, in a very active growth, which must be encouraged by moderate
and regular supplies of water and air. Pinch out the points of the
growing shoots of such plants as are required to become bushy; this
is commonly called "stopping," and, with such things as geraniums,
fuchsias, myrtles, and others of similar habit, is very necessary.
Cactuses must have a sunny position, and plenty of water. Mignonette
in pots and boxes, will require thinning, so as to leave the plants
about three inches apart. The several kinds of China roses form
beautiful window ornaments, and occasion but little trouble: at this
time they are coming rapidly into bloom. Look for and destroy insects
of all sorts, every few days; they multiply so fast, that without
constant attention, the plants are soon overrun. The leaves must be
kept clear of dust, and the branches properly tied out to sticks,
that the centre may receive its due share of light.
730. _May._--As the influence of the advancing season and power of
the sun begins to be felt, the management of window-plants becomes
easier, and must be gradually changed from the careful nursing
hitherto necessary, to a course of almost constant exposure that will
render the plants robust and hardy.
731. _June._--From this time till the middle of September, plants in
pots may be placed out of doors; they are, in fact, better in the
open air, than in the heated atmosphere of a room. Except in stormy
seasons, they may stand out night and day, in some slightly-sheltered
spot. As a precaution against the effects of strong sun-light, it is
advisable to place the pots in which the plants grow, into others a
size or two larger, and fill the space between them with moss; for
many plants, having slender fibrous roots, are easily injured by the
heat of the sun scorching them through the pot. Such as stand upon
the ground, should have a thick layer of ashes spread for them, to
prevent worms from creeping in. Wash their leaves frequently with
clean water, and remove insects. When any portion of the collection
is kept in-doors, a window facing the north or west is to be
preferred, and plenty of air must be admitted. As soon as geraniums
have done flowering, they should be cut down, re-potted, and the
tops struck, to form plants for next year. This is a good time to
propagate nearly all kinds of pot-plants; most of them strike with
freedom on a warm border in sandy soil, covered with a glass, and
kept moderately watered. Myrtles, and some other hard-wooded plants,
may be struck by placing the cuttings, for about half their length,
into a phial filled with water. Seeds must be sown in light earth, as
soon as they are thoroughly ripe.
732. _July._--Fuchsias, in a growing state, should receive a final
potting: place them in large, perfectly clean pots, using a mixture
of turfy loam and peat, or leaf mould; train the shoots, and water
liberally. Geraniums that have done flowering, should also be
re-potted; they require a lighter soil, such as one part turfy loam,
two parts leaf mould, and the remainder sand: cut down the tops to
within two or three joints of their base, and set the plants in a
warm sheltered place, to induce them to grow again: the cuttings may
be struck in a frame or hand-glass, and will form nice plants by next
season. Cactuses should be kept in a sunny situation, and have plenty
of water. Camellias which have made their season's growth, may be set
out of doors, to ripen. China roses may be re-potted, if requisite,
and are easily propagated now, in the same manner as geraniums.
Separate and pot violets, for early spring-flowering; keep them and
similar plants, as the cyclamen, &c., in the most shaded place out
of doors. The whole tribe of lilies are handsome window-plants, and
some of the dwarf Japan kinds peculiarly adapted for the purpose;
they are just beginning to bloom, and should have plenty of air
and water. The Chinese primrose may be sown in pots of light rich
earth, and, if covered with a piece of glass, will vegetate quickly,
and form nice plants by the autumn. Propagation of such plants as
myrtles, sweet-scented verbena, or lemon plant, chimney campanulas,
&c., is now easy, and should be attended to without loss of time.
Water all the plants with regularity, and in quantities proportionate
to their size and the state of the weather; but particularly keep the
leaves clean, by frequent sprinklings of clean water and sponging.
The essential points in the culture of every plant, is to allow the
functions of both roots and leaves to be carried on in a proper
manner--the first, by placing them in suitable soil, and the latter,
by clearing them of all impurities.
733. _August._--Needs only a continuance of the attention recommended
last month. Let them have plenty of air, light, and water, with a
slight protection from the mid-day sun; propagation may still be
carried on successfully. Pot the bella-donna and Guernsey lilies, to
flower in autumn; and the young plants of the Chinese primrose should
be placed three or four together, in pots of light rich earth, and
nursed, to forward their growth as far as possible.
734. _September._--The geraniums cut down in July, will now be
pushing forth a number of young shoots; these must be encouraged as
much as possible, by keeping the plants in a sheltered place, and
duly supplying them with moisture. When the shoots have grown two
or three joints, they should be stopped by picking out the points,
in order to render them bushy. The cuttings made at the same period
will now be fit for potting; put each one separately into a small
pot, and treat them as the older plants. Young plants of myrtles, and
indeed all others that are properly rooted, should receive similar
treatment. Cinerarias are among the most useful of spring-flowering
plants, and if a few seedlings can be obtained now, they will make
nice plants, with the treatment recommended for geraniums. Cyclamen,
Guernsey, or Bella-donna lilies, and Lachenalias should be re-potted;
the first and last are very handsome spring-flowering plants, and
the lilies are exceedingly beautiful through October and November;
all of them are of reasonable price, and well worth adding to the
usual stock of window plants. Fill a few pots with fibrous loam,
and sprinkle them over with mignonette, nemophila insignis, and
intermediate stocks; leave the pots in the open air, and thin the
plants to about three or four of the strongest, as soon as they can
be handled. Pot off china primroses, putting one plant into each
three-inch pot. Encourage the chrysanthemums in pots with alternate
applications of manure water, repot the strongest, and allow them all
plenty of room, or the leaves are liable to injury. Set all plants as
they grow out of flower in the sun, to ripen their wood, but do not
let them suffer from drought.
735. _October._--The principal endeavor among this class of plants
must now be directed towards getting them into a state of rest;
water very cautiously, giving air whenever the weather will permit,
and at all times let them enjoy whatever sunshine occurs, and
uninterrupted light. Now that the respiring power of the leaves
becomes lessened, it is most essential that every particle of dust be
carefully removed; the surface of the soil in which they grow should
be occasionally stirred, to keep it clean and porous, and even the
outside of the pots should be washed, for the same end. If it be
necessary to stand the pots in saucers, when the plants are watered,
the waste which runs through should be regularly emptied away, as
much mischief ensues from allowing the roots to remain in the water.
736. _November._--The directions given last month must be closely
observed throughout the remainder of the year. The great object being
to keep the majority of the plants in a resting condition, that
they may start the more vigorously on the return of genial weather.
Winter, or early spring-flowering plants, such as violets, China
primroses, cyclamen, and roses, are, however, to be excepted from
this rule; they are now in an active state, and must be encouraged
accordingly. As soon as hyacinths and other bulbs, placed in pots
last month, have become pretty well rooted, they may be brought into
the window, and being placed near the light, will grow rapidly;
those in glasses should have the water changed once or twice a week.
Chrysanthemums in pots require plenty of water while in bloom, and
when their beauty declines, the plants should be taken to a warm part
of the garden, or placed in a light shed, to complete their maturity.
737. _December._--If the geraniums or other plants taken from the
borders in autumn, exhibit signs of rottenness, remove the decaying
parts, and dust the wounds with quick-lime or sulphur, keep them
comparatively dry and as much exposed to the sun as possible; air is
essential whenever it can be admitted. Remember previous directions
regarding the employment of pans; they are a most fatal source of
disease and death when left with water in them. Water sparingly, keep
the leaves clean, and wait patiently. Flowering plants must still
form the exception, as mentioned last month.
738. _To manage a Watch._--_First_: Wind your watch as nearly as
possible at the same hour every day. _Secondly_: Be careful that your
key is in good condition, as there is much danger of injuring the
machine when the key is worn or cracked; there are more mainsprings
and chains broken through a jerk in winding, than from any other
cause, which injury will, sooner or later, be the result, if the
key be in bad order. _Thirdly_: As all metals contract by cold,
and expand by heat, it must be manifest, that to keep the watch
as nearly as possible at one temperature, is a necessary piece of
attention. _Fourthly_: Keep the watch as constantly as possible
in one position--that is, if it hangs by day, let it hang by night
against something soft. _Fifthly_: the hands of a pocket-chronometer
or duplex watch, should never be set backwards; in other watches this
is a matter of no consequence. _Sixthly_: The glass should never
be opened in watches that set and regulate at the back. One or two
other directions more, it is of vital importance that you bear in
mind. On regulating a watch, should it be fast, move the regulator
a trifle towards the slow, and if going slow, do the reverse; you
cannot move the regulator too slightly or too gently at a time,
and the only inconvenience that can arise is, that you may have to
perform the duty more than once. On the contrary, if you move the
regulator too much at a time you will be as far, if not farther
than ever, from attaining your object; so that you may repeat the
movement until quite tired and disappointed--stoutly blaming both
watch and watch-maker, while the fault is entirely your own. Again,
you cannot be too careful in respect of the nature and condition of
your watch-pocket; see that it be made of some material that is soft
and pliant--such as wash-leather, which is the best; and, also, that
there be no flue or nap that may be torn off when taking the watch
out of the pocket. Cleanliness, too, is as needful here as in the key
before winding; for if there be dust or dirt in either instance, it
will, you may rely upon it, work its way into the watch, as well as
wear away the engine turning of the case.