CHAPTER XIII

AT WAR IN CHINA

After ten days or so of hard work and exposure on this desert island, I

was sent to the _Nankin_, a 50-gun frigate, and took passage in her to

Hong-Kong, to await events.

Commodore Elliot was hard at the Chinese junks up the Canton River,

when Keppel took his place. As luck would have it, my dear Chief took

me with him; also Prince Victor of Hohenlohe, Goodenough, Charlie

Scott, and Harry Stephenson. Goodenough had command of the improvised

gun-boat, the _Hong-Kong_. Having little or no kit left, I managed to

get a small fit-out at Hong-Kong before joining. Very little sufficed

for that rough work up the river. I had lost nearly all my clothes.

What became of my sea chest I don’t know (nor my poor fiddle I was so

fond of). I expect it was left on the desert island, with what little

there was in it. Sea chest! What a ghastly thing it was! You were

supposed to wash in it. Fancy your stock of white shirts being slopped

over, as well as your uniform, every time you went to your chest to

wash your hands. A certain part of a cockpit could easily have been

arranged with drawers for middies’ clothes, and there might have been a

decent place to bathe in.

We started up the Canton River for the front on the 20th of May, and

joined the Fleet of brigs, gun-boats, and small corvettes at the

rendezvous off the Bogue forts, fortified islands some distance up

the river--I should imagine half-way to Canton. Some of these brigs

were lovely little ships. A 16-gun brig under all sail was one of the

prettiest sights imaginable. I particularly remember a little beauty

called the _Acorn_.

The old _Alligator_ was towed up and turned into a depot flagship. She

was an old 26-gun frigate, as broad as she was long; and, short as I

was, I had to stoop in going along the main deck, lest I should strike

against the overhead beams.

When we were not fighting, or on some expedition, this old frigate

served as our flagship; and, though cramped, we were certainly much

cooler and better provided for. Towards the end of May the plan for

the attack on the Chinese war-junks was completed. Gun-boats were told

off to lead divisions of boats and take them in tow. Our larger boats,

launches, and barges carried brass guns in the bows; cutters were

armed with rockets, besides rifles and cutlasses.

The rockets John Chinaman particularly dreaded: they upset his nervous

system. I wrote home at this time, saying:--

We hate these Chinese; it takes twenty of them to equal one

Englishman, and they are awful cowards. They carry what they call

stink-pots at the mast-heads of their junks, so that when our boats

get alongside to board them, these pots are lowered into our boats,

explode or break as the case may be, causing such a frightful

stench that you are suffocated by the disgusting smell, but if they

will only hold on and not bolt when we get among them we shall pay

them off properly. But they say these chaps cannot stand close

quarters.

What a novelty to me was China--people, customs, costumes, and

eccentricity of the women! I am afraid we treated China very badly. I

remember landing at low water on one occasion at Hong-Kong in company

with several other officers. We had to be carried ashore through the

soft mud on the boatmen’s backs. We were all in nice clean white

clothes. To our horror, on landing we found ourselves besmeared with

cocoa-nut oil. The boatmen had rubbed oil all over their naked hides,

to keep the flies and other insects off. We were a dirty sight;

and retaliated by thrashing the poor wretches with our sticks and

umbrellas. They bore our abuse without a murmur.

On the 30th of May, the attacking force was pushed up the river to a

point where various creeks debouched from the main stream. Up one of

these creeks we were to fight our battle of Fatshan on the 1st of June.

The boats were all towed up by the gun-boats, presenting a very long

string: they were an imposing sight. The _Hong-Kong_, on which vessel

I was serving, flew Commodore Keppel’s broad pennant. We had a good

reconnoitre of the Chinese war-junks on the 31st, while the finishing

touches were being made among our gun-boats and attacking forces.

At sunset we returned to the flotilla, and the last orders for the

morrow’s fight were given out. We anticipated a hard tussle. We were

right. The Chinese had placed stakes in the river at certain ranges,

which we must pass, and all their guns were beautifully laid for those

marks.

There was a fort also on a commanding hill on our left front, which

must be taken before the boats could advance to capture the junks; and

this was to be the first operation.

After supper on the night of the 31st we all lay down in our boats, or

on the decks of the gun-boats, to get some sleep. The gun-boats were

anchored, with boats all lying in single file astern. It was a lovely

calm night, and pretty hot; and beyond the noise of frogs on the banks,

and a few night birds parading about, there was little sound to be

heard. We did ourselves as well as we could: some snoozing; others

smoking, spinning yarns, discussing eventualities; and no doubt many

minds with their thoughts far away. Those who have gone through the eve

of an action know too well the many things that run in the mind. Those

who have not I wish well through it when their time comes; and to all

who may happen to read these pages, luck.

Soon after 3.30 A.M., and before daylight had dawned, the boats were

ordered to be manned; the landing-party told off to assault the fort

were sent on ahead; the rest of the forces followed slowly, with orders

to move on when the fort was carried.

Just at break of day the landing-party were ashore and rushing the

hill at the point of the bayonet, while the leading gun-boats pitched

shot and shell into the fort, to cover the assault. It did not take

long. The Chinamen fired a few shots; but, being overwhelmed by the

fire of the gun-boats, and seeing the gallant marines close at hand,

they bolted like rabbits. On went the flotilla, until one by one they

grounded. The _Hong-Kong_, luckily, drew a foot or so less of water.

We were highly favoured thereby, and got to pretty close quarters with

the junks. As each gun-boat grounded, the tide being at low water, the

boats pushed ahead and came in for a real good dressing, it being now

broad daylight and the sun rising.

Presently the _Hong-Kong_ stuck, and a battery, which was masked by

trees and sheds, opened fire on our right flank, and caused us much

annoyance. Owing to there being many trees about, they could not see

our hull properly; but they made several holes in our funnel and

paddle-boxes.

Soon the tide began to rise. One by one we all floated and scraped on,

as the depth of water permitted, in order to cover our boats, which

were now in the thick of it. Keppel led them in his 6-oared galley.

The fire was very heavy: it has always been a marvel to me that we

did not lose more men, for the shot were ricochetting down the river

as thick as hail, from junks moored across the creek in two lines at

intervals. Some of these junks had eight or ten guns on board, and

many of them 32-pounders, besides endless jingalls. They certainly

looked very formidable, and were decidedly picturesque, being painted

in various colours (generally red and green) and flying streamers and

flags on all their masts. When we reached a distance of 300 yards or so

of the boats, we began firing over their heads; and then, some of the

other gun-boats having come up, we gave the junks goss!

Beyond helping to direct the firing, I had little to do, and was all

this time merely a spectator on the deck of the _Hong-Kong_: so I had

the satisfaction of seeing the whole business well.

Presently we grounded again. I now saw that at a distance of about 300

yards our boats had taken the first line of junks, and were setting on

fire those which had not begun to move off; and these very soon began

to blow up, the explosion being dangerous, as spars and timber were

falling about in all directions. Having passed through the first line

of junks, our boats came under fire of a second fleet, and our poor

chaps were suffering severely. Whole sides of oars were shot away; many

boats came to grief, and some were sunk; each crew had to take refuge

in the nearest boat.

Keppel’s galley was at this time sunk, and five of his crew of six

men were killed or wounded. He got on board a boat belonging to

the _Calcutta_, and, finding his force gradually diminishing, was

compelled to beat a retreat for the time being, and rally with what

was left round the _Hong-Kong_, the nearest _point d’appui_. Noticing

our retrograde movement, John Chinaman doubled his efforts, and the

shot came thicker than ever. We were hulled twelve times in a short

space--in fact, were being well raked. There was nothing now to do but

to await reinforcements. The deeper-draught gun-boats, with their boats

in tow, were coming up to join us.

About this time--I should think 11.30--an unfortunate marine had both

his legs taken off by a round shot; and my (white) ducks, face, and

body were splashed with the poor chap’s blood. Looking over the side

about this time, I noticed a launch close alongside. I actually saw the

whole of one side of her oars cut away, and at the same instant two men

killed on the after-thwart, one poor chap’s skull killing the man on

the thwart alongside of him.

Lieutenant Graham had a round shot between the calves of his legs,

contusing them; but he managed to hang on to his work.

The men were fearfully done up. Keppel gave the order to serve out

quinine and biscuits during the time we were rallying; but I do not

think a dozen men had time to swallow this frugal meal before Keppel,

who was at this moment on top of our paddle-box, suddenly called out,

“The beggars are making off. Man the boats! man the boats!” and,

shaking his fist at them, further exclaimed, “You rascals! I’ll pay

you off for this!” What a rush! Fresh boats had come up; a frantic

cheer was given; and on they raced exactly like boats at a regatta,

indiscriminately, straight at the junks, which now slackened their fire

and appeared to be getting into position with their oars to make away.

Now there was no quarter. Junk after junk was taken. Some ran on the

banks and were fired immediately: Chinamen jumping overboard in all

directions, and swimming for their lives. Some five or so, I believe,

got away. The rest were chased for six miles up the river, towards the

town of Fatshan; but our chaps were done, and, as Fatshan was fortified

and full of troops, we could do no more. So ended a thundering good

fight.

The _Hong-Kong_ went up some distance beyond the junks that had been

captured in the morning, to cover the boats; but, owing to the shoaling

of the water, our progress was slow. We were scraping the mud most of

the time.

When the boats returned it was about 3.30 P.M.: so we had been hard at

it for twelve hours. As I said before, it was simply marvellous that

our casualties were so slight. Between seventy and eighty, I believe,

was our butcher’s bill. I fancy that, as the boats and gun-boats were

all bows-on most of the time, it must be considered that we offered

small targets. Otherwise the smallness of our loss is unaccountable.

I may be allowed, perhaps, to copy a letter from the Commodore that

appeared in _The Times_ soon after the news got to England. It will

naturally be a description better than my account. It was written

on 20th of July, three weeks after the action, from on board the

_Alligator_.--

The three weeks of this month have been full of excitement. We

commenced on the 1st with as pretty a boat action as any ever

recorded in naval history, though it may never be appreciated

because it was fought in China. The troops are now unfortunately

required for India, and, I suppose, we shall not get them before

summer is over. [This is in allusion to the outbreak of the Indian

Mutiny.] So much the better for them, as it is boiling hot here

now. In the meantime we have to keep the Canton River open for

them, it being the high road to the Celestial City, which I suppose

they will have to occupy before Lord Elgin attempts to bring

Commissioner Yeh to terms. I am left here in command of the river,

the fort of Chuenpee, which I took possession of on the 18th,

being my boundary at one end, and the Macao fort at the other.

They are about forty miles apart. All the intermediate forts have

been demolished, and on the 1st we polished off the remainder of

their war fleet, about 180 Imperial war-junks, so that now I have

uncontrolled possession. Our worthy chief, a fine fellow he is,

remains with his flagship at Hong-Kong, paying us occasional visits

in one of the small steamers. I have seventeen ships manned by

about 2600 men, stationed at different distances, and this being

the anniversary of Her Majesty’s accession, they are dressed out

with bunting, and at noon Commissioner Yeh will be edified by royal

salutes fired the whole length of the river from Canton to below

the Bogue forts.

[Illustration: The battle of Fatshan, showing the sinking of

Commodore The Honourable Henry Keppel’s galley, 1st June 1857.]

My poor _Raleigh_ no longer belongs to Her Majesty’s Navy, and

the Admiral has appointed all the officers and myself to the

_Alligator_, with three tenders to do our work. I live in the

_Hong-Kong_, but come here to sleep when not moving about, this old

hulk being a sort of fixture.

We all mess together, viz., Lieutenant Goodenough, Dr. Crawford,

Prince Victor, Autey, my secretary, Lord Charles Scott, Montagu,

and Stephenson. We are very happy and jolly, and this temporary

arrangement is a very good one. We thought we were going to have

a little fight the other day. The Admiral ordered me to take the

Chuenpee fort; we moved down in good order, but the enemy guessed

what they might expect, and very wisely “hooked it.” I am afraid

this is the last little affair that is likely to take place this

summer. The upper part of the river is not considered so healthy as

the rest, so I have the ships relieved every fortnight. There are

two islands near where we are anchored, where the officers and men

assemble every evening and play at quoits and all sorts of games.

Turnour is up at the front; they are obliged to be continually on

the alert to look out for fire rafts and all sorts of infernal

machines. I generally visit them once a week in Hong-Kong. I hope

somebody gave you a good account of our boat fight on the 1st June.

It must have been a beautiful sight to those who viewed it from the

heights. The shallow water obliged the _Hong-Kong_ to ground, or

she would have been in front of everything, but when she grounded

I led on my boats in my gig, but as the tide was rising the

_Hong-Kong_ followed on as fast as she could.

The first division of the Chinese Fleet were simultaneously

attacked by about 1900 men. Spread over a large surface they soon

gave way, but I did not take up more than a quarter of that number

to attack the second division, which was three miles higher up

the river, in a well-situated place, and evidently the _élite_

of their fleet. They numbered exactly twenty in one compact row,

they mounted from 10 to 12 guns each, two in bow and stern being

heavy 32-pounders. I saw I had all the _Raleigh_ boats well up,

and I determined to push on. They fired occasional shots as if to

ascertain our exact distance, but did not open their heaviest fire

until we got to 600 yards’ distance, and then I saw how impossible

it would be to force our way until I had reinforcements. Nearly the

first fellow who had his head knocked off was an amateur, Major

Kearney. I had known him many years. We cheered and I tried to get

on, when a shot struck my boat right amidships, cut one man in two

and took off the arm of another. Prince Victor, who was with me,

jumped forward to tie up his arm with his neckcloth. While he was

doing so another round shot passed through both sides of the boat,

wounding two others on its passage. The boat was now filling with

water and I got on one of the seats to keep my legs out of the

water, and just after stepping up a third shot went through both

sides of the boat not more than an inch below the seat on which

I was then standing. Many of our boats now got huddled together,

the oars of most being shot away. A boat of the _Calcutta_ being

nearest, I jumped into her, pulling our wounded men with us, my

dog Mike refusing to leave the dead body of the man who was his

favourite. We were obliged to leave him. I then gave the order to

retire on the _Hong-Kong_ and reform abreast of her. While we were

going down a shot cut away all the oars on one side. I called to

Lieutenant Graham to get his boat ready, as I would hoist my broad

pennant and lead the next attack in his boat. I had no sooner

spoken to him than a shot disabled his boat, wounding him and

killing and wounding four others. I saw Graham one mass of blood,

but it was from a marine who stood next to him, and part of whose

skull was forced three inches into another man’s shoulder. When

I reached the _Hong-Kong_ the whole of the enemy’s fire seemed

centred on her. She was hulled twelve times in a few minutes, her

deck was covered with the wounded who had been brought on board

from the boats. I was looking at him when a round shot cut down

a marine and he fell on them. From the paddle box I saw that our

heavy firing was bringing up strong reinforcements. The account

of having been obliged to retire had reached them, and they were

pulling like mad. The _Hong-Kong_ had floated and grounded again.

I ordered a bit of blue bunting to be got ready to represent my

broad pennant. I called out, “Let us try the row boats once more,

boys,”[1] and went over the side into the _Raleigh_ cutter, in

which was Turnour and the faithful Spurier[2] bringing the bit of

blue bunting. At this moment there arose from the boats, as if

every man took it up at the same instant, one of those British

cheers so full of meaning, that I knew at once it was all up with

John Chinaman. They might sink thirty boats, but there were thirty

others who would go ahead all the faster. On we went. It was indeed

a lovely and exciting sight. I saw the move among the junks; they

were breaking ground and moving off, the outermost first. This

manœuvre they performed in beautiful order. They never ceased to

fire. Three more cheers and then commenced an exciting chase for

seven miles. As our shot told on them they ran ashore and their

crews forsook them. Seventeen were come up with this way, and only

three escaped. It was in this last chase that my poor Spurier was

shot down by my side. I saw his bowels protruding as he lay in the

bottom of the boat, holding my hand. He asked me if I thought there

was any hope. I could only say--Where there is life there is hope.

But I had none. Strange to say, the good Crawford sewed him up, and

the Admiral’s last letter from Hong-Kong states Spurier hoped to

return to his duties in a few days.

[1] What he did say was, “The rascals are making off.” He shook

his fist at them, and further said, “I will pay you off for

this. Man the boats, boys.”

[2] His coxswain.

We have a surgeon out here who served in the Naval Brigade in the

Crimea. He says he never saw such frightful wounds as these Chinese

shot appear to make. By the way, I ought to record a delicate

attention from the ladies of Macao. My Commodore’s broad pennant

had been lost when my boat sunk. They presented me with a new silk

one, worked with their own fair hands! I hope some day to plant it

on the walls of the Celestial City, where the “Braves,” as they

call themselves, shall respect it.

I will now, in conclusion, give a letter equally gratifying in its

way:--

From REAR-ADMIRAL SIR MICHAEL SEYMOUR.

SIR,--I had the satisfaction of communicating yesterday to the

squadron generally my high sense of the zeal and gallantry

displayed by the officers and men in the decisive action against

the Chinese war junks in Fatshan Creek on the 1st inst., but I feel

it is further incumbent on me to express personally my admiration

of the cool courage and good judgment with which you led the

attack, first in the gun-boats until they grounded, and afterwards

in the ships’ boats up the Fatshan branch, when in the vicinity of

the city of Fatshan the severe struggle with the formidable line of

heavy junks moored across the river commenced, and the _Hong-Kong_

again aground bore so conspicuous a part. Also your subsequent

determined attack with the boats under your command, which finally

dislodged the junk forces, and led to the uttermost success of the

day.

The fact that your galley was sunk under you, and that five out

of six of your crew were killed and wounded, is the best proof

that you maintained the post of honour throughout. I sincerely

congratulate you on your safety, and shall not fail to bring

your services to the notice of the Lord Commissioners of the

Admiralty.--I have the honour [etc.],

M. SEYMOUR, _Commander-in-Chief_.

The action over, all the killed and wounded were placed on board my

ship, and we were ordered to convey them post-haste down to the Naval

Hospital at Hong-Kong. We took down eighty killed and wounded; and,

as we were but a small river steamer,--considerably smaller than an

ordinary tug-boat,--it can be imagined that the poor fellows lay thick

on deck and below. Our troubles were not over. A sort of sequel to the

fight was going on; and a most unpleasant one it was. As we proceeded,

we passed through the junks which we had taken in the morning, now all

on fire; explosions were going on in all directions; and (which was

almost worse) the guns as they got hot (pointing in every direction)

were continually going off. It was a case of running the gauntlet: how

I did watch the muzzles as we passed close by!

Luckily, we were not hit, though our awning caught fire in several

places from falling _débris_; and mighty glad was I to find our poor

craft clear of all these blazing junks and once more out of harm’s way.

I had one very close shave during the fighting. (Probably there were

plenty of others, unknown to me.) I was standing on the sponson,

helping the wounded up out of the boats, when I heard a devil of a

crash close to my head, and, turning round, saw a great bulge and crack

in the pantry bulkhead, at the after end of the paddle-box, exactly

in a line with my head. I could not resist the temptation to look

round, and in at the door, to see what was wrong; and there I beheld an

18-pound shot still pirouetting round on a shelf on which stood some of

our crockery, now all more or less smashed. The missile had gone right

through our paddle-box from one end to the other. A few more grains of

powder or one bulkhead less, and my head would have been unshipped to a

moral.

Luckily, John Chinaman was not in those days enlightened in the use of

shells. Had he been so, we should probably have lost four times as many

men, and we might not have been able to take and destroy the Chinese

Fleet as we did; Still, the Chinamen had grape, and filled their

guns with bags of musket balls; and the jingall was an ugly customer,

throwing a very large bullet.

Once out of fire, on our way down the river, there was time to reflect.

What would we not have given for a good cup of China tea under some

of the groves we passed, and for the privilege of being left in peace

for a short time? Instead of being at rest, we were tearing along

full-speed, leaking like a sieve, owing to the shot holes.

The first thing I did to my outward person was to change my clothes and

make an attempt at a wash. I was covered in blood, begrimed with smoke:

in fact, filthy. I had a hasty feed on what I could get hold of: to

find anything was difficult, with so many poor wounded lying about on

the beds in our cabins, on the sofas, everywhere.

The next trouble was our leaks. Where the shot had gone through our

sides all was fairly well, as the holes had been plugged up and covered

with boarding; but several had stuck in our sides, and the vibration

of the engines loosened them, and the leakage was serious. Pumps were

kept going; but at one time during the night it was doubtful if we

should reach Hong-Kong, as the water was rising to near the stoke-hole

fire-pits. We hung on all night, however, and reached Hong-Kong at nine

next morning.

The remembrance of that evening and night, while we were steaming

down, is heart-rending. It was dead calm, and the cries of the wounded

were unbearable. Many were calling for their relations and friends;

others would rise up in their beds, and then throw themselves down in

despair. Several times I went on to the sponson to have their piteous

cries drowned in the noise of the paddle wheels.

Poor fellows, who had been scorched terribly from explosions of

boats’ magazines, were enveloped in wadding. Some of them sank during

the night from exhaustion: though covered in wadding from head to

foot, they found no respite from their agonies. There was a nice

young fellow, a mate of the _Tribune_, who had a grape shot through

his lungs. It was touching to hear him talking to his coxswain, who

knelt by his side, fanning him the while. The chief subject of his

conversation was his poor mother. He also sank during the early hours

of morning. When daylight broke our decks presented a sorry sight. It

was painful to have renewed the scenes of suffering which the darkness

had mitigated. Some were soon to die; others were in great pain; but

generally all now seemed more still, and, except for the noise of the

paddle wheels, a sort of silence came over us as day dawned: the weary

were more at rest. I shall never forget that night. I snatched an hour

or two’s sleep; but one and all of us did what we could to help the

surgeons, and it was a relief when the dead bodies and the wounded were

taken out alongside the hospital ship and our decks were washed down.

We repaired our shot holes, coaled, and, as soon as possible, returned

to the front that same evening. Next day we took up officers from the

ships to see the scene of the fight of the 1st of June. Some Chinamen

were already trying to raise their guns sunken in the junks; but a few

shots sent them flying. We found we had smashed them up terribly. It

was interesting to seek out details of where we had been only three

days before, and of what we had done in certain localities; also to

note how the Chinese had placed their stakes, many of which were shot

away--only the stumps left.

Again, how extraordinary it was that we had not lost more men! An

action like this--(I verily believe that during the twelve hours it

lasted it could not have been hotter)--is a pretty good test of British

pluck. I can conscientiously say that I did not see the slightest

hesitation in any man from beginning to end. Even when the boats were

fairly beaten off, and Keppel had to retire for reinforcements, there

was no hurry while retiring. The men paddled back at leisure, and took

their licking calmly.

On one occasion there was rather a rush on board to quench thirsts;

but that was only natural.

The _Hong-Kong_ was a large target; but our interest was so much

centred on firing good shots, and in watching the boats amid the smoke

ahead of us, that, while the firing was hottest, we all felt quite

excited, and redoubled our efforts. I enjoyed planting the rockets into

them: you can make excellent practice when your craft is still.

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