Walking one day in the Green Park, I met Mr. Rogers and Wordsworth,

who took me between them, and I continued my walk in great glory and

exultation of spirit, listening to Rogers, and hearing

Wordsworth,--the gentle rill of the one speech broken into and

interrupted by sudden loud splashes of the other; when Rogers, who

had vainly been trying to tell some anecdote, pathetically

exclaimed, "He won't let me tell my story!" I immediately stopped,

and so did Wordsworth, and during this halt Rogers finished his

recital. Presently afterwards, Wordsworth having left us, Rogers

told me that he (Mr. Wordsworth), in a visit he had been lately

paying at Althorpe, was found daily in the magnificent library, but

never without a volume of his own poetry in his hand. Years after

this, when I used to go and sit with Mr. Rogers, I never asked him

what I should read to him without his putting into my hands his own

poems, which always lay by him on his table.

A comical instance of the rivalry of wits (surely as keen as that of

beauties) occurred one day when Mr. Rogers had been calling on me

and speaking of that universal social favorite, Lady Morley, had

said, "There is but one voice against her in all England, and that

is her own." (A musical voice was the only charm wanting to Lady

Morley's delightful conversation.) I was enchanted with this pretty

and appropriate epigram, so unlike in its tone to Mr. Rogers's usual

_friendly_ comments; and, very soon after he left me, Sydney Smith

coming in, I told him how clever and how pleasant a remark the

"departed" poet (Sydney Smith often spoke of Rogers as dead, on

account of his cadaverous complexion) had made on Lady Morley's

voice. "He never said it," exclaimed my second illustrious visitor.

"But he did, Mr. Smith, to me, in this room, not half an hour ago."

"He never _made_ it; it isn't his, it isn't a bit like him." To all

which I could only repeat that, nevertheless, he _had_ said it, and

that, whether he made it or not, it was extremely well made.

Presently Sydney Smith went away. I was living in upper Grosvenor

Street, close to Park Lane; and he in Green Street, in the near

neighborhood. But I believe he must have run from my house to his

own, so short was the interval of time, before I received the

following note: "Dans toute l'Angleterre il n'y a qu'une voix contre

moi, et c'est la mienne." Then followed the signature of a French

lady of the eighteenth century, and these words: "What a dear,

innocent, confiding, credulous creature you are! and how you _do_

love Rogers!

"SYDNEY SMITH."

When I was leaving England, I received two most kind and

affectionate letters from him, bidding me farewell, and exhorting

me, in a most comical and yet pathetic manner, to be courageous and

of good cheer in returning to America. One of these epistles ended

thus: "Don't forget me, whatever you do; talk of me sometimes, call

me Butler's Hudibras, and believe me always.

"Affectionately yours,

"SYDNEY SMITH."]

LIVERPOOL, Monday, September 11th, 1837.

Here we are again, dearest Harriet, returned from our ship, after a

wretched day and night spent on board of her most unnecessarily. When we

reached the quay yesterday morning, we saw the vessel lying under

close-reefed sails; the favorable wind had died away, and the captain,

whom we found standing on the wharf, said that, it being Sunday morning,

he did not know how he should get a steamboat to tow us out. All this

seemed to me very much like not sailing, and I begged not to go on

board; at all events, I proposed, if we did not sail, that we should

return to shore, and received a promise that we certainly should do so;

so we went off in a small boat to the ship. She is crowded to excess,

and the greater proportion of passengers are emigrant women and

children.... I busied myself in stowing away everything in our

state-room, and removing the upper berth so as to secure a little more

breathing space. I even was guilty of the illicit proceeding--committed

the outrage, in fact--of endeavoring to break one of my bull's-eyes,

preferring being drenched to dry suffocation in foul air; but my utmost

violence, even assisted with an iron rod, was ineffectual, and I had to

give up breaking that window as a bad job. I found Margery's state-room

one chaos of confusion, she at the same time protesting that everything

was as tidily disposed of as possible; so I had to stand by and show her

where to put every individual article, and having cleared the small

space of the heap of superfluous things with which it was crammed, and

removed the upper berth, I left it to her option whether she or baby

should occupy the floor at night.

At about half-past ten the captain came on board to say that we should

not sail then, but if the wind grew fair, we _might perhaps_ sail in the

afternoon. He then took himself off the vessel, the wind was fast

veering to dead ahead, ... and, with an aching heart and head, I

remained in my berth all day long. In the night a perfect gale arose,

the ship dragged her anchor for two miles, and we had thus much

consolation that, had we put to sea, we should have encountered a

violent storm, and, in all probability been driven back into the Mersey.

This morning the wind was still contrary, and so we at length exerted

ourselves to return to shore. Had we done so yesterday in good time--or,

rather, not gone on board at all, you and I might have spent two more

days together, and the baby and myself been spared considerable misery.

But lamenting cures nothing; ... but I wish we never had left the quay

yesterday morning, for everything showed against the probability of our

sailing, and so here we are back in our old quarters at the Star and

Garter, and you are gone.

We have taken places at the theater for this evening, to see Macready in

"Macbeth." The Captain says we are to sail to-morrow morning, but I

shall do my utmost this time to avoid going on board except in his

company; and then, I think, we shall perhaps have some chance of not

spending another day in vain in our sea-prison.

Ever your affectionate,

F. A. B.

[The foregoing letter gives some idea of the difference between

crossing from England to the United States in those days, and in

these; when a telegram bears the defiance to fate of this message:

"We sail in the _Russia_ on the 3d; have dinner for us at the

Adelphi on the 11th."]

PHILADELPHIA, Sunday, October 29th, 1837.

MY DEAREST HARRIET,

We landed in New York, ten days ago, _i.e._, on Friday, the 20th

October; and had we come on immediately hither, your letter would have

been just in time to greet me on my arrival here; but our passage was of

thirty-seven days, stormy as well as tedious, and I was so ill that I

did not leave my bed six times during the crossing; the consequence was,

that on landing I looked more like a ghost than a living creature, and

was so reduced in strength as hardly to be able to stand, so we remained

in New York a few days, till I was able to travel.... Our

fellow-passengers, the women, I mean, were rather vulgar, commonplace

people, with whom I should not have had much sympathy, had I been well.

As it was, I saw but little of them, and may consider that one of the

counterbalancing advantages of having suffered so much.

One of them was in circumstances which interested me a good deal, though

there was little in herself to do so. Her husband was a Staffordshire

potter, and had gone to the United States to establish a pottery there;

to begin the building up of a large concern, and lay the foundation for

probable future wealth and prosperity. He had been gone two years, and

she was now going out to join him with their four children. In his

summons to her after this long separation, he told her that all had

prospered with him, that he had bought a large tract of land, found

excellent soil, water, and means of every description for his

manufacturing purposes, obtained a patent, and established his business,

and was every way likely to thrive and be successful.

What hope, what energy, what enterprise, what industry, in but two years

of one human existence! What a world of doubt, of distressful anxiety

and misgiving in the heart of the woman, left to patient expectation, to

prayerful, tearful hopes and fears! What trust in man and faith in God

during those two years! And now, with her children, she was coming to

rejoin her helpmate, and begin life all over again, with him and them,

in a strange country, in the midst of strangers, with everything strange

about her. I lay thinking with much sympathy of this poor woman and her

feelings, during my miserable confinement to my berth through that

dismal voyage. She was an uneducated person, of the lower middle class,

and not in herself interesting: though I do not know why I say that,

when I was deeply interested about her, and I do not know that any

creature endowed with a heart and soul can fail to be an object of

interest in some way or other; and human existence, with all its

marvelous developments, going on round one, must always furnish matter

for admiration, pity, or sympathy. Moreover, this woman was carrying out

with her the wives of several of her husband's workmen, who had

accompanied him out on his experimental voyage; and, being settled in

his employment, had got their master's wife to bring their partners out

to them. Think what a meeting for all these poor people, dear Harriet,

in this little hive of English industry and energy in the far west, the

fertile wildernesses of Indiana! How often I thought of the fears and

misgivings of these poor women in the steerage, when our progress was

delayed by tempestuous, contrary winds, when the heavy seas leaped over

our laboring vessel's sides, and when, during a violent thunderstorm,

our masts were tipped with lambent fire, which played round them like a

halo of destruction.

All this while I have forgotten to tell you why I have not written

sooner; and I suppose my accusation is yet bitter in your heart while

you are reading this. I told you on my first page I was obliged to stay

in New York to recruit my strength; the first time I went out, after

walking about a quarter of a mile, I was obliged to sit down and rest,

for half an hour, in a public garden, before I could crawl back again to

the hotel.

On Monday, when I was a little better, we came on here. I am every day

now expecting to be fetched to Harrisburg.... A woman should be her

husband's friend, his best and dearest friend, as he should be hers: but

friendship is a relation of equality, in which the same perfect respect

for each other's liberty is exercised on both sides; and that sort of

marriage, if it exists at all anywhere, is, I suspect, very uncommon

everywhere. Moreover, I am not sure that marriage ever is, can be, or

ought to be, such an equality; for even "When two men ride on one

horse," you know, etc. In the relation of friendship there is perfect

freedom, and an undoubted claim on each side to be neither dependent on,

nor controlled by, each other's will. In the relation of marriage this

is impossible; and therefore certainly marriage is not friendship.... A

woman should, I think, love her husband better than anything on earth

except her own soul; which, I think, a man should respect above

everything on earth but his own soul: and there, my dear, is a very

pretty puzzle for you, which a good many people have failed to solve. It

is, indeed, a pretty difficult problem; and perhaps you have chosen, if

not the wiser and better, at any rate the easier and safer part.

God bless you, dear friend.

Ever affectionately yours,

F. A. B.

HARRISBURG, Friday, November 14th, 1837.

Thank you, dearest Harriet, for your epitome of the history of the New

Testament. I have read the same things, in greater detail, more than

once.... I have repeatedly gone over accounts of the history and

authenticity of the Gospel narratives; but I have done so as a duty, and

in order to be able to give to others some reason for the faith that is

in me,--not really because I desired the knowledge for its own sake; and

therefore my memory had gradually lost its hold of what I had taken into

my mind, chiefly for the satisfaction of others, to enable me to make

sufficient answers upon a subject whose best evidence of truth seems to

me to reside in itself, and to be altogether out of the region of

logic.... Christ received the last and perfect revelation of moral

truth, brought it into the world, preached it by his practice, and bore

witness to it by his death; and since he came, every holy life and

death, in those portions of the globe where his name is known, has been

moulded upon his teaching and example; and those individuals least

inclined to acknowledge it have unconsciously imbibed the influence of

the inspiration which he breathed into the soul of humanity. He has

saved, and is daily and hourly saving, the world: and so far from

imagining the possibility of any end to the work he has begun, or any

superseding of his revelation by any other, it appears to me that

civilized societies and nations calling themselves Christian have hardly

yet begun to comprehend, believe, or adopt his teaching; under the

influence of which I look for the regeneration of the race through the

coming ages: it will extend above and beyond all discoveries of science

and developments of knowledge, and more and more approve itself the only

moral and spiritual theory that will at once carry forward and keep pace

with the progress of humanity....

If, by telling you that my mind dwelt more upon religious subjects now

than formerly, I have led you to suppose that I ever investigate or

ponder creeds, theologies, dogmas, or systems of faith, I have given you

a false impression. But I live alone--much alone bodily, more alone

mentally; I have no intimates, no society, no intellectual intercourse

whatever; and I give myself up, as I never did in my life before, to

mere musing, reverie, and speculation--I cannot dignify the process by

the title of thought or contemplation.

My mind is much less active than it was: I read less, write less, study

little, plan no work, and accomplish none. It is curious how,

immediately upon my return to England, my mind seemed to flow back into

its former channels; how my thoughts were roused and awakened; and how

my imagination revived, and with what ease and rapidity I wrote, almost

_currente calamo_, the only thing worth anything that I ever have

written, my "English Tragedy." Here, all things tend to check any

utterance of my thoughts, spoken or written; and while in England I

could not find time enough to write, I here have no desire to do so, and

lament my inability to force myself to mental exertion as a mere

occupation and fill-time: _I dare not say kill-time, "for that would be

a sin."_ ... I ride and walk, and pass my days alone; and lacking

converse with others, have become much addicted to desultory thinking

(almost as bad a thing as desultory reading), which is indeed no

thinking at all. Real thinking is what Cleopatra calls "sweating labor,"

to which the hewing of wood and drawing of water is a joke; but this I

carefully avoid, knowing my own incapacity for it; so I dawdle about my

mind, and, naturally, arrive at few conclusions; and among those few, no

doubt, many false ones....

We are established here during the rest of the Session of the

Convention, which is a gain to me, as here I get companionship. There is

a recess of a couple of hours, too, in the middle of the day, which the

members avail themselves of for their very early dinner, but which we

employ, and I enjoy immensely, in riding about the neighboring country.

It is not thought expedient that I should ride alone about this strange

region, on a strange horse, so I am escorted, at which I rejoice for all

sakes, as everybody's health here would be the better for more exercise

than they take.

This place, which is the seat of Government of the State of

Pennsylvania, is beautifully situated in a valley locked round by purple

highlands, through which runs the Susquehanna; in some parts broad,

bright, rapid, shallow, brawling, and broken by picturesque reefs of

rock; in others, deep and placid, bearing on its bosom beautiful

wood-crowned islands, whose autumnal foliage, through which the mellow

sunshine is now pouring, gives them the appearance of fairyland planted

with golden woods.

The beautiful river is bountifully provided, too, with a most admirable

species of trout, weighing from two to four pounds, silvery white

without, and pale pink within (just the complexion of a fresh mushroom),

and very excellent to eat, as well as lovely to behold.

Many of the members of the Convention have been kind enough to come and

see me, and I have attended one of their debates. They are for the most

part uncultivated men, unlettered and ungrammared; and those among them

who are the best educated, or rather the least ignorant, carry their

small _lore_ much as a school-boy carries his, stiffly, awkwardly, and

ostentatiously: an Eton sixth-form lad would beat any one of them in

classical scholarship. But though in point of intellectual acquirement,

I do not find much here to excite my sympathy, there is abundant matter

of interest, as well as much that is curious and amusing to me in their

intercourse. The shrewdness, the sound sense, the original observations,

and the experience of life of some of these men are striking and

remarkable. Though not one of them can speak grammatically, they all

speak fluently, boldly, readily, easily, without effort or hesitation.

There is, of course, among them, the usual proportion of well, and less

well, witted individuals; and perhaps the contrast is the more apparent

because the education has here covered no natural deficiencies and

developed no natural gifts; so that there is not the usual superficial,

civilized level produced by a common intellectual training. The

questions they discuss are often in themselves interesting, though I

cannot say that they often treat them in the most interesting manner....

Ever your affectionate,

F. A. B.

[The play which I have called an "English Tragedy," was suggested by

an incident in the life of Lord de Ros, which my father heard at

dinner at Lady Blessington's, and, on his return from Gore House,

related it to us. I wrote the principal scene of the third act the

same evening, under the impression of the story I had just heard;

and afterwards sketched out and wrote the drama, of which I had

intended, at first, to write only that one scene.

The whole fashionable world of London had been thrown into

consternation by the discovery that Lord de Ros, premier Baron of

England, cheated at cards. He was, notoriously, one of the most

worthless men of his day; which circumstance never prevented his

being perfectly well received by the men and women of the best

English society. That he was an unprincipled profligate made him

none the less welcome to his male associates, or their wives,

sisters, and daughters; but when Lord de Ros cheated his

fellow-gamblers at the Club, no further toleration of his wickedness

was, of course, possible; and then every infamous story, which, if

believed, should have made him intolerable to decent people before,

was told and re-told; and it seemed to me, that of all the evil

deeds laid to his charge, his cheating at cards was quite the least

evil.

Lady Ellesmere, from whom I heard a story of his cold-blooded

profligacy far more dreadful than that on which I founded my

"English Tragedy," told me that she thought Lord de Ros's influence

had been exceedingly detrimental to her brother, Charles Greville,

who was his most intimate friend; and who, she said, burst into

tears in speaking to her of it, when the fact of his cheating was

discovered,--certainly a strong proof of affection from such a man

to such a man; and I remember how eagerly and earnestly he

endeavored to persuade me that the incident on which I had founded

my "English Tragedy" had not been so profoundly base on Lord de

Ros's part as I supposed.

Besides the revival of these tragical stories of his misdeeds, the

poor man's disgrace gave rise to some bitter jokes among his friends

of the club-house and gambling-table. An epitaph composed for him to

this effect was circulated among his intimates:--

"Here lies Henry, twenty-sixth Baron de Ros, in joyful expectation

of the last trump."

Of course he was cut by all his noble associates; and Lord Alvanley,

being hailed one day by some of them with an inquiry as to whether

it was true that he had called on De Ros, replied, "I left a card on

Lord de Ros, and I marked it, that he might know it was an honor."]

HARRISBURG, Saturday, November 11th, 1837.

MY DEAR MRS. JAMESON,

It seems useless for me to wait any longer for the chance of giving you

some definite idea of our plans, for day after day passes without their

assuming anything like a decided form, and I am now as uncertain of what

is to become of us when the Convention leaves this place, as I was when

I saw you in New York.

From the date of your last, I perceive that you have taken your intended

trip [to the Sault St. Marie, and some of the then little frequented

Canadian Lake scenery]. I rejoice at this, as your health must, of

course, be better than when you wrote to me before, and I think the

scenery and people you are now amongst fit to renovate a sick body and

soothe a sore mind. [Mrs. Jameson was staying at Stockbridge, with the

Sedgwick family.] Catherine Sedgwick is my best friend in this country,

but the whole family have bestowed more kindness upon me than I can ever

sufficiently acknowledge.... They have all been exceedingly good to me,

and the place of their dwelling combines for me the charms of great

natural beauty with the associations that belong to the intellect and

the affections.

After your first letter from New York, I never rested till I got Mrs.

Griffith's review of your book. The composition itself did not surprise

me, but what did a little--only a little (for I am growing old, and have

almost done with being surprised at anything), was that such a

production should have gained admission into one of the principal

magazines of this country; it is a sad specimen, truly, of the

periodical literature it accepts.... Criticism in periodical journals is

apt to be slightly malignant, ... and more often the result of personal

sentiment than impartial literary or artistic judgment: so that I rather

admired the article in question for its ignorance and vulgarity than the

qualities which it exhibited in common with other criticisms to be met

with in our own periodical literature, which, however unjust or partial

in their censures and commendations, are decidedly inferior to Mrs.

Griffith's composition in the two qualities I have specified....

My baby acquired a cough in coming from Philadelphia to this place in a

railroad carriage (car, as they are called here), which held sixty-four

persons in one compartment, and from which we were all obliged to

alight, and walk a quarter of a mile through the woods, because the

railroad, though traveled upon, is not finished.

We are here upon the banks of the Susquehanna, and surrounded by fine

blue outlines of mountainous country. How thankful I am that God did not

despise beauty! He is the sole provider of it here.

Believe me ever yours very truly,

F. A. B.

P. S.--"A change has come o'er the spirit of my dream" since yesterday;

upon due deliberation, it is determined that when the Convention goes to

Philadelphia we shall take possession of Butler Place; and therefore

(however uncomfortably), I shall be able to receive you there after the

first of next month. If a half-furnished house and half-broken household

do not deter you, you will find me the same you have ever known me,

there, as elsewhere,

Yours most truly,

F. A. B.

PHILADELPHIA, Thursday, November 20th, 1837.

MY DEAR MRS. JAMESON,

I write in haste, for I find our garden-cart is just starting for town,

and I wish this to be taken immediately to the post-office. I was

beginning to be almost anxious about you, when your letter from Boston

arrived, to remove the apprehension of your being again ill, which I

feared must be the case.

You tell me that you will let me know the day on which to expect you in

Philadelphia, and bid me, if I cannot receive you in my house, seek out

a shelter for you. The inconveniences, I fear, are yours, and not mine;

though a residence of even a few days in an American boarding-house,

must, I should think, make even the discomforts of my housekeeping seem

tolerable. But that you are yourself likely to be a sufferer in so

doing, I should not be sorry to show you the quite indescribable

difference between an English and an American home and household; which,

I assure you, nothing less than seeing is believing.

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