But my particular reason for mentioning the matter is this. Despite my

friend's mystical remarks about the Upper Ten, he lived in an atmosphere

of something that was at least the very reverse of a respect for

persons. Indeed, there was something in the very crudity of his social

compliment that smacked, strangely enough, of that egalitarian soil. In

a vaguely aristocratic country like England, people would never dream

of telling a total stranger that he was a member of the Upper Ten. For

one thing, they would be afraid that he might be. Real snobbishness is

never vulgar; for it is intended to please the refined. Nobody licks the

boots of a duke, if only because the duke does not like his boots

cleaned in that way. Nobody embraces the knees of a marquis, because it

would embarrass that nobleman. And nobody tells him he is a member of

the Upper Ten, because everybody is expected to know it. But there is a

much more subtle kind of snobbishness pervading the atmosphere of any

society trial in England. And the first thing that struck me was the

total absence of that atmosphere in the trial at Oklahoma. Mr. Hamon was

presumably a member of the Upper Ten, if there is such a thing. He was a

member of the Senate or Upper House in the American Parliament; he was a

millionaire and a pillar of the Republican party, which might be called

the respectable party; he is said to have been mentioned as a possible

President. And the speeches of Clara Smith's counsel, who was known by

the delightfully Oklahomite title of Wild Bill McLean, were wild enough

in all conscience; but they left very little of my friend's illusion

that members of the Upper Ten could not be accused of crimes. Nero and

Borgia were quite presentable people compared with Senator Hamon when

Wild Bill McLean had done with him. But the difference was deeper, and

even in a sense more delicate than this. There is a certain tone about

English trials, which does at least begin with a certain scepticism

about people prominent in public life being abominable in private life.

People do vaguely doubt the criminality of 'a man in that position';

that is, the position of the Marquise de Brinvilliers or the Marquis de

Sade. _Prima facie_, it would be an advantage to the Marquis de Sade

that he was a marquis. But it was certainly against Hamon that he was a

millionaire. Wild Bill did not minimise him as a bankrupt or an

adventurer; he insisted on the solidity and size of his fortune, he made

mountains out of the 'Hamon millions,' as if they made the matter much

worse; as indeed I think they do. But that is because I happen to share

a certain political philosophy with Wild Bill and other wild buffaloes

of the prairies. In other words, there is really present here a

democratic instinct against the domination of wealth. It does not

prevent wealth from dominating; but it does prevent the domination from

being regarded with any affection or loyalty. Despite the man in the

starry coat, the Americans have not really any illusions about the Upper

Ten. McLean was appealing to an implicit public opinion when he pelted

the Senator with his gold.

But something more is involved. I became conscious, as I have been

conscious in reading the crime novels of America, that the millionaire

was taken as a type and not an individual. This is the great difference;

that America recognises rich crooks as a _class_. Any Englishman might

recognise them as individuals. Any English romance may turn on a crime

in high life; in which the baronet is found to have poisoned his wife,

or the elusive burglar turns out to be the bishop. But the English are

not always saying, either in romance or reality, 'What's to be done, if

our food is being poisoned by all these baronets?' They do not murmur in

indignation, 'If bishops will go on burgling like this, something must

be done.' The whole point of the English romance is the exceptional

character of a crime in high life. That is not the tone of American

novels or American newspapers or American trials like the trial in

Oklahoma. Americans may be excited when a millionaire crook is caught,

as when any other crook is caught; but it is at his being caught, not at

his being discovered. To put the matter shortly, England recognises a

criminal class at the bottom of the social scale. America also

recognises a criminal class at the top of the social scale. In both, for

various reasons, it may be difficult for the criminals to be convicted;

but in America the upper class of criminals is recognised. In both

America and England, of course, it exists.

This is an assumption at the back of the American mind which makes a

great difference in many ways; and in my opinion a difference for the

better. I wrote merely fancifully just now about bishops being burglars;

but there is a story in New York, illustrating this, which really does

in a sense attribute a burglary to a bishop. The story was that an

Anglican Lord Spiritual, of the pompous and now rather antiquated

school, was pushing open the door of a poor American tenement with all

the placid patronage of the squire and rector visiting the cottagers,

when a gigantic Irish policeman came round the corner and hit him a

crack over the head with a truncheon on the assumption that he was a

house-breaker. I hope that those who laugh at the story see that the

laugh is not altogether against the policeman; and that it is not only

the policeman, but rather the bishop, who had failed to recognise some

fine logical distinctions. The bishop, being a learned man, might well

be called upon (when he had sufficiently recovered from the knock on

the head) to define what is the exact difference between a house-breaker

and a home-visitor; and why the home-visitor should not be regarded as a

house-breaker when he will not behave as a guest. An impartial

intelligence will be much less shocked at the policeman's disrespect for

the home-visitor than by the home-visitor's disrespect for the home.

But that story smacks of the western soil, precisely because of the

element of brutality there is in it. In England snobbishness and social

oppression are much subtler and softer; the manifestations of them at

least are more mellow and humane. In comparison there is indeed

something which people call ruthless about the air of America,

especially the American cities. The bishop may push open the door

without an apology, but he would not break open the door with a

truncheon; but the Irish policeman's truncheon hits both ways. It may be

brutal to the tenement dweller as well as to the bishop; but the

difference and distinction is that it might really be brutal to the

bishop. It is because there is after all, at the back of all that

barbarism, a sort of a negative belief in the brotherhood of men, a dark

democratic sense that men are really men and nothing more, that the

coarse and even corrupt bureaucracy is not resented exactly as

oligarchic bureaucracies are resented. There is a sense in which

corruption is not so narrow as nepotism. It is upon this queer cynical

charity, and even humility, that it has been possible to rear so high

and uphold so long that tower of brass, Tammany Hall. The modern police

system is in spirit the most inhuman in history, and its evil belongs

to an age and not to a nation. But some American police methods are evil

past all parallel; and the detective can be more crooked than a hundred

crooks. But in the States it is not only possible that the policeman is

worse than the convict, it is by no means certain that he thinks that he

is any better. In the popular stories of O. Henry there are light

allusions to tramps being kicked out of hotels which will make any

Christian seek relief in strong language and a trust in heaven--not to

say in hell. And yet books even more popular than O. Henry's are those

of the 'sob-sisterhood' who swim in lachrymose lakes after love-lorn

spinsters, who pass their lives in reclaiming and consoling such tramps.

There are in this people two strains of brutality and sentimentalism

which I do not understand, especially where they mingle; but I am fairly

sure they both work back to the dim democratic origin. The Irish

policeman does not confine himself fastidiously to bludgeoning bishops;

his truncheon finds plenty of poor people's heads to hit; and yet I

believe on my soul he has a sort of sympathy with poor people not to be

found in the police of more aristocratic states. I believe he also reads

and weeps over the stories of the spinsters and the reclaimed tramps; in

fact, there is much of such pathos in an American magazine (my sole

companion on many happy railway journeys) which is not only devoted to

detective stories, but apparently edited by detectives. In these stories

also there is the honest, popular astonishment at the Upper Ten

expressed by the astronomical detective, if indeed he was a detective

and not a demon from the dark Red-Indian forests that faded to the

horizon behind him. But I have set him as the head and text of this

chapter because with these elements of the Third Degree of devilry and

the Seventh Heaven of sentimentalism I touch on elements that I do not

understand; and when I do not understand, I say so.

_The Republican in the Ruins_

The heathen in his blindness bows down to wood and stone; especially to

a wood-cut or a lithographic stone. Modern people put their trust in

pictures, especially scientific pictures, as much as the most

superstitious ever put it in religious pictures. They publish a portrait

of the Missing Link as if he were the Missing Man, for whom the police

are always advertising; for all the world as if the anthropoid had been

photographed before he absconded. The scientific diagram may be a

hypothesis; it may be a fancy; it may be a forgery. But it is always an

idol in the true sense of an image; and an image in the true sense of a

thing mastering the imagination and not the reason. The power of these

talismanic pictures is almost hypnotic to modern humanity. We can never

forget that we have seen a portrait of the Missing Link; though we

should instantly detect the lapse of logic into superstition, if we were

told that the old Greek agnostics had made a statue of the Unknown God.

But there is a still stranger fashion in which we fall victims to the

same trick of fancy. We accept in a blind and literal spirit, not only

images of speculation, but even figures of speech. The nineteenth

century prided itself on having lost its faith in myths, and proceeded

to put all its faith in metaphors. It dismissed the old doctrines about

the way of life and the light of the world; and then it proceeded to

talk as if the light of truth were really and literally a light, that

could be absorbed by merely opening our eyes; or as if the path of

progress were really and truly a path, to be found by merely following

our noses. Thus the purpose of God is an idea, true or false; but the

purpose of Nature is merely a metaphor; for obviously if there is no God

there is no purpose. Yet while men, by an imaginative instinct, spoke of

the purpose of God with a grand agnosticism, as something too large to

be seen, something reaching out to worlds and to eternities, they speak

of the purpose of Nature in particular and practical problems of curing

babies or cutting up rabbits. This power of the modern metaphor must be

understood, by way of an introduction, if we are to understand one of

the chief errors, at once evasive and pervasive, which perplex the

problem of America.

America is always spoken of as a young nation; and whether or no this be

a valuable and suggestive metaphor, very few people notice that it is a

metaphor at all. If somebody said that a certain deserving charity had

just gone into trousers, we should recognise that it was a figure of

speech, and perhaps a rather surprising figure of speech. If somebody

said that a daily paper had recently put its hair up, we should know it

could only be a metaphor, and possibly a rather strained metaphor. Yet

these phrases would mean the only thing that can possibly be meant by

calling a corporate association of all sorts of people 'young'; that is,

that a certain institution has only existed for a certain time. I am not

now denying that such a corporate nationality may happen to have a

psychology comparatively analogous to the psychology of youth. I am not

even denying that America has it. I am only pointing out, to begin with,

that we must free ourselves from the talismanic tyranny of a metaphor

which we do not recognise as a metaphor. Men realised that the old

mystical doctrines were mystical; they do not realise that the new

metaphors are metaphorical. They have some sort of hazy notion that

American society must be growing, must be promising, must have the

virtues of hope or the faults of ignorance, merely _because_ it has only

had a separate existence since the eighteenth century. And that is

exactly like saying that a new chapel must be growing taller, or that a

limited liability company will soon have its second teeth.

Now in truth this particular conception of American hopefulness would be

anything but hopeful for America. If the argument really were, as it is

still vaguely supposed to be, that America must have a long life before

it, because it only started in the eighteenth century, we should find a

very fatal answer by looking at the other political systems that did

start in the eighteenth century. The eighteenth century was called the

Age of Reason; and there is a very real sense in which the other systems

were indeed started in a spirit of reason. But starting from reason has

not saved them from ruin. If we survey the Europe of to-day with real

clarity and historic comprehension, we shall see that it is precisely

the most recent and the most rationalistic creations that have been

ruined. The two great States which did most definitely and emphatically

deserve to be called modern states were Prussia and Russia. There was no

real Prussia before Frederick the Great; no real Russian Empire before

Peter the Great. Both those innovators recognised themselves as

rationalists bringing a new reason and order into an indeterminate

barbarism; and doing for the barbarians what the barbarians could not do

for themselves. They did not, like the kings of England or France or

Spain or Scotland, inherit a sceptre that was the symbol of a historic

and patriotic people. In this sense there was no Russia but only an

Emperor of Russia. In this sense Prussia was a kingdom before it was a

nation; if it ever was a nation. But anyhow both men were particularly

modern in their whole mood and mind. They were modern to the extent of

being not only anti-traditional, but almost anti-patriotic. Peter forced

the science of the West on Russia to the regret of many Russians.

Frederick talked the French of Voltaire and not the German of Luther.

The two experiments were entirely in the spirit of Voltairean

rationalism; they were built in broad daylight by men who believed in

nothing but the light of common day; and already their day is done.

If then the promise of America were in the fact that she is one of the

latest births of progress, we should point out that it is exactly the

latest born that were the first to die. If in this sense she is praised

as young, it may be answered that the young have died young, and have

not lived to be old. And if this be confused with the argument that she

came in an age of clarity and scepticism, uncontaminated by old

superstitions, it could still be retorted that the works of superstition

have survived the works of scepticism. But the truth is, of course, that

the real quality of America is much more subtle and complex than this;

and is mixed not only of good and bad, and rational and mystical, but

also of old and new. That is what makes the task of tracing the true

proportions of American life so interesting and so impossible.

To begin with, such a metaphor is always as distracting as a mixed

metaphor. It is a double-edged tool that cuts both ways; and

consequently opposite ways. We use the same word 'young' to mean two

opposite extremes. We mean something at an early stage of growth, and

also something having the latest fruits of growth. We might call a

commonwealth young if it conducted all its daily conversation by

wireless telegraphy; meaning that it was progressive. But we might also

call it young if it conducted all its industry with chipped flints;

meaning that it was primitive. These two meanings of youth are

hopelessly mixed up when the word is applied to America. But what is

more curious, the two elements really are wildly entangled in America.

America is in some ways what is called in advance of the times, and in

some ways what is called behind the times; but it seems a little

confusing to convey both notions by the same word.

On the one hand, Americans often are successful in the last inventions.

And for that very reason they are often neglectful of the last but one.

It is true of men in general, dealing with things in general, that while

they are progressing in one thing, such as science, they are going back

in another thing, such as art. What is less fully realised is that this

is true even as between different methods of science. The perfection of

wireless telegraphy might well be followed by the gross imperfection of

wires. The very enthusiasm of American science brings this out very

vividly. The telephone in New York works miracles all day long. Replies

from remote places come as promptly as in a private talk; nobody cuts

anybody off; nobody says, 'Sorry you've been troubled.' But then the

postal service of New York does not work at all. At least I could never

discover it working. Letters lingered in it for days and days, as in

some wild village of the Pyrenees. When I asked a taxi-driver to drive

me to a post-office, a look of far-off vision and adventure came into

his eyes, and he said he had once heard of a post-office somewhere near

West Ninety-Seventh Street. Men are not efficient in everything, but

only in the fashionable thing. This may be a mark of the march of

science; it does certainly in one sense deserve the description of

youth. We can imagine a very young person forgetting the old toy in the

excitement of a new one.

But on the other hand, American manners contain much that is called

young in the contrary sense; in the sense of an earlier stage of

history. There are whole patches and particular aspects that seem to me

quite Early Victorian. I cannot help having this sensation, for

instance, about the arrangement for smoking in the railway carriages.

There are no smoking carriages, as a rule; but a corner of each of the

great cars is curtained off mysteriously, that a man may go behind the

curtain and smoke. Nobody thinks of a woman doing so. It is regarded as

a dark, bohemian, and almost brutally masculine indulgence; exactly as

it was regarded by the dowagers in Thackeray's novels. Indeed, this is

one of the many such cases in which extremes meet; the extremes of

stuffy antiquity and cranky modernity. The American dowager is sorry

that tobacco was ever introduced; and the American suffragette and

social reformer is considering whether tobacco ought not to be

abolished. The tone of American society suggests some sort of

compromise, by which women will be allowed to smoke, but men forbidden

to do so.

In one respect, however, America is very old indeed. In one respect

America is more historic than England; I might almost say more

archaeological than England. The record of one period of the past,

morally remote and probably irrevocable, is there preserved in a more

perfect form as a pagan city is preserved at Pompeii. In a more general

sense, of course, it is easy to exaggerate the contrast as a mere

contrast between the old world and the new. There is a superficial

satire about the millionaire's daughter who has recently become the wife

of an aristocrat; but there is a rather more subtle satire in the

question of how long the aristocrat has been aristocratic. There is

often much misplaced mockery of a marriage between an upstart's daughter

and a decayed relic of feudalism; when it is really a marriage between

an upstart's daughter and an upstart's grandson. The sentimental

socialist often seems to admit the blue blood of the nobleman, even when

he wants to shed it; just as he seems to admit the marvellous brains of

the millionaire, even when he wants to blow them out. Unfortunately (in

the interests of social science, of course) the sentimental socialist

never does go so far as bloodshed or blowing out brains; otherwise the

colour and quality of both blood and brains would probably be a

disappointment to him. There are certainly more American families that

really came over in the _Mayflower_ than English families that really

came over with the Conqueror; and an English county family clearly

dating from the time of the _Mayflower_ would be considered a very

traditional and historic house. Nevertheless, there are ancient things

in England, though the aristocracy is hardly one of them. There are

buildings, there are institutions, there are even ideas in England which

do preserve, as in a perfect pattern, some particular epoch of the past,

and even of the remote past. A man could study the Middle Ages in

Lincoln as well as in Rouen; in Canterbury as well as in Cologne. Even

of the Renaissance the same is true, at least on the literary side; if

Shakespeare was later he was also greater than Ronsard. But the point is

that the spirit and philosophy of the periods were present in fullness

and in freedom. The guildsmen were as Christian in England as they were

anywhere; the poets were as pagan in England as they were anywhere.

Personally I do not admit that the men who served patrons were freer

than those who served patron saints. But each fashion had its own kind

of freedom; and the point is that the English, in each case, had the

fullness of that kind of freedom. But there was another ideal of freedom

which the English never had at all; or, anyhow, never expressed at all.

There was another ideal, the soul of another epoch, round which we built

no monuments and wrote no masterpieces. You will find no traces of it in

England; but you will find them in America.

The thing I mean was the real religion of the eighteenth century. Its

religion, in the more defined sense, was generally Deism, as in

Robespierre or Jefferson. In the more general way of morals and

atmosphere it was rather Stoicism, as in the suicide of Wolfe Tone. It

had certain very noble and, as some would say, impossible ideals; as

that a politician should be poor, and should be proud of being poor. It

knew Latin; and therefore insisted on the strange fancy that the

Republic should be a public thing. Its Republican simplicity was

anything but a silly pose; unless all martyrdom is a silly pose. Even of

the prigs and fanatics of the American and French Revolutions we can

often say, as Stevenson said of an American, that 'thrift and courage

glowed in him.' And its virtue and value for us is that it did remember

the things we now most tend to forget; from the dignity of liberty to

the danger of luxury. It did really believe in self-determination, in

the self-determination of the self, as well as of the state. And its

determination was really determined. In short, it believed in

self-respect; and it is strictly true even of its rebels and regicides

that they desired chiefly to be respectable. But there were in it the

marks of religion as well as respectability; it had a creed; it had a

crusade. Men died singing its songs; men starved rather than write

against its principles. And its principles were liberty, equality, and

fraternity, or the dogmas of the Declaration of Independence. This was

the idea that redeemed the dreary negations of the eighteenth century;

and there are still corners of Philadelphia or Boston or Baltimore where

we can feel so suddenly in the silence its plain garb and formal

manners, that the walking ghost of Jefferson would hardly surprise us.

There is not the ghost of such a thing in England. In England the real

religion of the eighteenth century never found freedom or scope. It

never cleared a space in which to build that cold and classic building

called the Capitol. It never made elbow-room for that free if sometimes

frigid figure called the Citizen.

In eighteenth-century England he was crowded out, partly perhaps by the

relics of better things of the past, but largely at least by the

presence of much worse things in the present. The worst things kept out

the best things of the eighteenth century. The ground was occupied by

legal fictions; by a godless Erastian church and a powerless Hanoverian

king. Its realities were an aristocracy of Regency dandies, in costumes

made to match Brighton Pavilion; a paganism not frigid but florid. It

was a touch of this aristocratic waste in Fox that prevented that great

man from being a glorious exception. It is therefore well for us to

realise that there is something in history which we did not experience;

and therefore probably something in Americans that we do not understand.

There was this idealism at the very beginning of their individualism.

There was a note of heroic publicity and honourable poverty which

lingers in the very name of Cincinnati.

But I have another and special reason for noting this historical fact;

the fact that we English never made anything upon the model of a

capitol, while we can match anybody with the model of a cathedral. It is

far from improbable that the latter model may again be a working model.

For I have myself felt, naturally and for a long time, a warm sympathy

with both those past ideals, which seem to some so incompatible. I have

felt the attraction of the red cap as well as the red cross, of the

Marseillaise as well as the Magnificat. And even when they were in

furious conflict I have never altogether lost my sympathy for either.

But in the conflict between the Republic[1] and the Church, the point

often made against the Church seems to me much more of a point against

the Republic. It is emphatically the Republic and not the Church that I

venerate as something beautiful but belonging to the past. In fact I

feel exactly the same sort of sad respect for the republican ideal that

many mid-Victorian free-thinkers felt for the religious ideal. The most

sincere poets of that period were largely divided between those who

insisted, like Arnold and Clough, that Christianity might be a ruin, but

after all it must be treated as a picturesque ruin; and those, like

Swinburne, who insisted that it might be a picturesque ruin, but after

all it must be treated as a ruin. But surely their own pagan temple of

political liberty is now much more of a ruin than the other; and I fancy

I am one of the few who still take off their hats in that ruined temple.

That is why I went about looking for the fading traces of that lost

cause, in the old-world atmosphere of the new world.

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