Is it to be supposed that I entered and left Athens without uttering the

cabalistic word "club"? By no means. I found myself one day invited to

speak to a number of ladies, at a friend's house, upon a theme of my own

choosing; and this theme was, "The Advancement of Women as Promoted by

Association." My audience, numbering about forty, was the best that

could be gathered in Athens. I found there, as I have found elsewhere in

Europe, great need of the new life which association gives, but little

courage to take the first step in a new direction. I could only scratch

my furrow, drop my seed, and wait, like _Miss Flyte_, in "Bleak House,"

for a result, if need be, "on the day of judgment."

It is a delight to speak of a deeper furrow which was drawn, ten years

earlier, by an abler hand than mine, though several of us gave some help

in the work done at that time. I allude to the efforts made by my dear

husband in behalf of the suffering Cretans, when they were struggling

bravely for the freedom which Europe still denies them. Some of the

money raised by his earnest efforts, as I have already said, found its

way to the then desolate island, in the shape of provisions and clothing

for the wives and children of the combatants. Some of it remained in

Athens, and paid for the education of a whole generation of Cretan

children exiled from their homes, and rendered able, through the aid

thus afforded, to earn their own support.

Some of the money, moreover, went to found an industrial establishment

in Athens, which has since been continued and enlarged by funds derived

from other sources. This establishment began with two or three looms,

the Cretan women being expert weavers, and the object being to enable

them to earn their bread in a strange city. And it now has at least a

dozen looms, and the Dorian mothers, stately and powerful, sit at them

all day long, weaving dainty silken webs, gossamer stuffs, strong cotton

fabrics, and serviceable carpets.

In those days I saw Marathon for the first time, and learned the truth

of Lord Byron's lines:--

The mountains look on Marathon,

And Marathon looks on the sea.

This expedition occupied the whole of a winter day. We started from the

hotel after early breakfast, and did not regain it until long after

dark. Our carriages were accompanied by an escort of dragoons, which the

Greek government supplies, not in view of any real danger from brigands,

but in order to afford strangers every possible security. A drive of

some three hours brought us to the spot.

A level plain, between the mountains and the sea; a mound, raised at its

centre, marking the burial-place of those who fell in the famous battle;

a sea-beach, washed by blue waves, and basking in the golden Attic

sunlight--this is what we saw at Marathon.

Here we gathered pebbles, and I preserved for some days a knot of

daisies growing in a grassy clod of earth. But my mind saw in Marathon

an earnest of the patriotic spirit which has lifted Greece from such

ruin as the Persians were never able to inflict upon her. Worthy

descendants of those ancient heroes were the patriots who fought, in our

own century, the war of Greek independence. I am glad to think that all

heroic deeds have a fatherhood of their own, whose line never becomes

extinct.

Those who would institute a comparison between ancient and modern art

should first compare the office of art in ancient times with the

function assigned it in our own.

The sculptures of classic Greece were primarily the embodiment of its

popular theology and the record of its patriotic heroism. They are not,

as we might think them, fancy-free. The marble gods of Hellas

characterize for us the _morale_ of that ancient community. They

expressed the religious conviction of the artist, and corresponded to

the faith of the multitude. If we recognize the freedom of imagination

in their conception, we also feel the reverence which guided the

sculptor in their execution. As Emerson has said:--

Himself from God he could not free.

How necessary these marbles were to the devotion of the time, we may

infer from the complaint reported in one of Cicero's orations,--that a

certain Greek city had been so stripped of its marbles that its people

had no god left to pray to.

In the city of the Cæsars, this Greek art became the minister of luxury.

The ethics of the Roman people chiefly concerned their relation to the

state, to which their church was in great measure subservient. The

statues stolen from the worship of the Greeks adorned the baths and

palaces of the Emperors. This we must think providential for us, since

it is in this way that they have escaped the barbarous destruction which

for ages swept over the whole of Greece, and to whose rude force,

column, monument, and statue were only raw material for the lime-kiln.

Still more secondary is the position of sculpture in the civilization of

to-day. Here and there a monument or statue commemorates some great name

or some great event. But these are still outside the current of our

daily life. Marble is to us a gospel of death, and we grow less and less

fond of its cold abstraction. The glitter of _bric-à-brac_, bits of

color, an unexpected shimmer here and there--such are the favorite

aspects of art with us.

In saying this, I remember that many beautiful works of art have been

purchased by wealthy Americans, and that a surprising number of our

people know what is worth purchasing in this line. And yet I think that

in the houses of these very people, art is rather the servant of luxury

than the embodiment of any strong and sincere affection.

We cannot turn back the tide of progress. We cannot make our religion

sculpturesque and picturesque. God forbid that we should! But we can

look upon the sculptures of ancient Greece with reverent appreciation,

and behold in them a record of the naïve and simple faith of a great

people.

If we must speak thus of plastic art, what shall we say of the drama?

Sit down with me before this palace of OEdipus, whose façade is the

only scenic aid brought to help the illusion of the play. See how the

whole secret and story of the hero's fate is wrought out before its

doors, which open upon his youthful strength and glory, and close upon

his desolate shame and blindness. Follow the majestic tread of the

verse, the perfect progress of the action, and learn the deep reverence

for the unseen powers which lifts and spiritualizes the agony of the

plot.

Where shall we find a parallel to this in the drama of our day? The most

striking contrast to it will be furnished by what we call a "realistic"

play, which is a play devised upon the supposition that those who will

attend its representation are not possessed of any imagination, but must

be dazzled through their eyes and deafened through their ears, until the

fatigue of the senses shall take the place of intellectual pleasure. The

_dénouement_ will, no doubt, present, as it can, the familiar moral that

virtue is in the end rewarded, and vice punished. But such virtue! and

such vice! How shall we be sure which is which?

During this visit, I had an interview which brought me face to face

with some of the Cretan chiefs, who were exiles in Athens at the time of

my visit, in consequence of their participation in the more recent

efforts of the Islanders to free themselves from the Turkish rule.

I received, one day, official notice that a committee, appointed by a

number of the Cretan exiles, desired permission to wait upon me, with

the view of presenting an address which should recognize the efforts

made by Dr. Howe in behalf of their unfortunate country. In accordance

with this request, I named an hour on the following day, and at the

appointed time my guests made their appearance. The Cretan chiefs were

five in number. All of them, but one, were dressed in the picturesque

costume of their country. This one was Katzi Michælis, the youngest of

the party, and somewhat more like the world's people than the others.

Two of these were very old men, one of them numbering eighty-four years,

and bearing a calm and serene front, like one of Homer's heroes. This

was old Korakas, who had only laid down his arms within two years. The

chiefs were accompanied by several gentlemen, residents of Athens. One

of these, Mr. Rainieri, opened proceedings by a few remarks in French,

setting forth the object of the visit, and introducing the address of

the Cretan committee, which he read in their own tongue:--

MADAM,--

We, the undersigned, emigrants from Crete, who await in free Greece

the complete emancipation of our country, have learned with

pleasure the fact of your presence in Athens. We feel assured that

we shall faithfully interpret the sentiments of our

fellow-countrymen by saluting your return to this city, and by

assuring you, at the same time, that the remembrance of the

benefits conferred by your late illustrious husband is always

living in our hearts. When the sun of liberty shall arise upon the

Island of Crete, the Cretans will, no doubt, decree the erection of

a monument which will attest to succeeding generations the

gratitude of our country toward her noble benefactor. For the

moment, Madam, deign to accept the simple expression of our

sentiments, and our prayers for the prosperity of your family and

your nation, to which we and our children shall ever be bound by

the ties of gratitude.

The substance of my reply to Mr. Rainieri was as follows:--

MY DEAR SIR,--

I beg that you will express to these gentlemen my gratitude for

their visit, and for the sentiments communicated in the address to

which I have just listened. I am much moved by the mention made of

the services which my late illustrious husband was able to render

to the cause of Greece in his youth, and to that of Crete in his

later life. It is true that his earliest efforts, outside of his

native country, were for Greek independence, and that his latest

endeavors in Europe were made in aid of the Cretans, who have

struggled with so much courage and perseverance to deliver their

country from the yoke of Turkish oppression. Pray assure these

gentlemen that my children and I will never cease to pray for the

welfare of Greece, and especially for the emancipation of Crete.

Though myself already in the decline of life, I yet hope that I

shall live long enough to see the deliverance of your island,

[Greek] tên eleutherian tês Krêtês.

A Greek newspaper's report of this occasion remarked:--

The last words of Mrs. Howe's reply, spoken in Greek, brought tears

to the eyes of the heroes, most of whom had known the

ever-memorable Dr. Howe in the glorious days of the war of 1821,

and had fought with him against the oppressors. Mr. Rainieri

interpreted the meaning of Mrs. Howe's words to his

fellow-citizens. After this, Mrs. Howe gave orders for

refreshments, and began to talk slowly, but distinctly, in Greek,

to the great pleasure of all present, who heard directly from her

the voice of her heart.

I will only add that all parties stood during the official part of the

interview. This being at an end, coffee and cordials were brought, and

we sat at ease, and chatted as well as my limited use of the modern

Greek tongue allowed. Before we separated, one of the Greeks present

invited the chiefs and myself and daughter to a feast which he proposed

to give at Phaleron, in honor of the meeting which I have just

described.

Some account of this festivity may not be uninteresting to my readers. I

must premise that it was to be no banquet of modern fashion, but a feast

of the Homeric sort, in which a lamb, roasted whole in the open air,

would be the principal dish. Phaleron, where it was appointed to take

place, is an ancient port, only three miles distant from Athens. The

sea view from this point is admirable. The bay is small, and its

surroundings are highly picturesque. Classic as was the occasion, the

unclassic railway furnished our conveyance.

The Cretan chiefs came punctually to the station, and presently we all

entered a parlor-car, and were whisked off to the scene of action. This

was the hotel at Phaleron, where we found a long table handsomely set

out, and adorned with fruits and flowers. The company dispersed for a

short time,--some to walk by the shore; some to see the lambs roasting

on their spit in the courtyard; I, to sit quietly for half an hour,

after which interval, dinner was announced.

Mr. Rainieri gave me his arm, and seated me on his right. On my right

sat Katzi Michælis. My daughter and a young cousin were twined in like

blooming roses between the gray old chieftains. Paraskevaïdes, the giver

of the feast, looked all aglow with pleasure and enthusiasm. Our soup

was served,--quite a worldly, French soup. But the Greeks insist that

the elaborate style of cookery usually known as French originated with

them. Then came a Cretan dish consisting of the liver and entrails of

the lambs, twisted and toasted on a spit. Some modern _entremets_

followed, and then, as _pièce de résistance_, the lambs, with

accompanying salad. Each of the elder chiefs, before tasting his first

glass of wine, rose and saluted the company, making especial obeisance

to the master of the feast.

The Homeric rage of hunger and thirst having been satisfied, it became

time for us to make the most of a reunion so rare in its elements, and

necessarily so brief. I will here quote partially the report given in

one of the Greek papers of the time. The writer says: "During dinner

many warm toasts were drunk. Mr. Rainieri drank to the health of Mrs.

Howe. Mr. Paraskevaïdes drank to the memory of Dr. Howe and the health

of all freedom-loving Americans, giving his toast first in Greek and

afterwards in English. To all this, Mrs. Howe made answer in French,

with great sympathy and eloquence." So the paper said, but I will only

say that I did as well as I was able.

At the mention of Dr. Howe's name, old Korakas rose, and said: "I assure

Mrs. Howe that when, with God's will, Crete becomes free, the Cretans

will erect a statue to the memory of her ever-memorable husband." At

this time, I thought it only right to propose the memory of President

Felton, former president of Harvard University, in his day an ardent

lover of Greek literature, and of the land which gave it birth. The

eldest son of this lamented friend sat with us at the table, and had

become so proficient in the language of the country as to be able to

acknowledge the compliment in Greek, which the reporter qualifies as

excellent. Apropos of this same reporter, let me say that he entered so

heartily into the spirit of the feast as to improvise on the spot some

lines of poetry, of which the following is a free translation:--

I greet the warriors of brave Crete

Assembled in this place.

Each of them represents her mountains,

Each her heart, each her breath.

If life may be measured by struggles,

So great is her life,

That on the day when she becomes free

Two worlds will be filled with the joy of her freedom.

The report says truly that the heroes of Crete, with their white beards,

resembled gods of Olympus. The three oldest--Korakas, Kriaris, and

Syphacus--spoke of the days in which Dr. Howe, while taking part with

them in the military operations of the war of Greek independence, at the

same time made his medical skill availing to the sick and wounded.

When we had risen from the board, passing into another room, my daughter

saw a ball lying on the table, and soon engaged the ancient chiefs in

the pastime of throwing and catching it. "See," said one of the company,

"Dr. Howe's daughter is playing with the men who, fifty years ago, were

her father's companions in arms."

After the simple patriarchal festivity, the return, even to Athens,

seemed a return to the commonplace.

A word regarding the Greek church belongs here. Its ritual represents,

without doubt, the most ancient form of worship which can have

representation in these days. The church calls itself simply orthodox.

It classes Christians as orthodox, Romanist, and Protestant, and

condemns the two last-named confessions of faith equally as heresies.

The Greek church in Greece has little zeal for the propaganda of its

special doctrine, but it has great zeal against the introduction of any

other sect within the boundaries of its domain. Protestant and Catholic

congregations are tolerated in Greece, but the attempt to educate Greek

children in the tenets held by either is not tolerated, is in fact

prohibited by government. I found the religious quiet of Athens somewhat

disturbed by the presence of several missionaries, supported by funds

from America, who persisted in teaching and preaching; one, after the

form of the Baptist, another, after that of the Presbyterian body. The

schools formerly established in connection with these missions have been

forcibly closed, because those in charge of them would not submit them

to the religious authority of the Greek priesthood.

The Sunday preaching of the missionaries, on the other hand, still went

on, making converts from time to time, and supplying certainly a direct

and vivid influence quite other than the extremely formal teaching of

the state church. The most prominent of these missionaries are Greeks

who have received their education in America, and who combine a fervent

love for their mother country with an equally fervent desire for her

religious progress. One can easily understand the attachment of the

Greeks to their national church. It has been the ark of safety by which

their national existence has been preserved.

When the very name of Hellene was almost obliterated from the minds of

those entitled to bear it, the Greek priesthood were unwearied in

keeping alive the love of the ancient ritual and doctrine, the belief in

the Christian religion. This debt of gratitude is warmly remembered by

the Greeks of to-day, and their church is still to them the symbol of

national, as well as of religious, unity. On the other hand, the

progress of religious thought and culture carries inquiring minds beyond

the domain of ancient and literal interpretation, and the outward

conformity which society demands is counter-balanced by much personal

scepticism and indifference. The missionaries, who cannot compete in

polite learning with the _élite_ of their antagonists, are yet much

better informed than the greater part of the secular clergy, and

represent, besides, something of American freedom, and the right and

duty of doing one's own thinking in religious matters, and of accepting

doctrines, if at all, with a living faith and conviction, not with a

dead and formal assent. It is one of those battles between the Past and

the Future which have to fight themselves out to an issue that outsiders

cannot hasten.

Shall I close these somewhat desultory remarks with any attempt at a

lesson which may be drawn from them? Yes; to Americans I will say: Love

Greece. Be glad of the men who rose up from your midst at the cry of her

great anguish, to do battle in her behalf. Be glad of the money which

you or your fathers sent to help her. America never spends money better

than in this way. Remember what this generation may be in danger of

forgetting,--that we can never be so great ourselves as to be absolved

from regarding the struggle for freedom, in the remotest corners of the

earth, with tender sympathy and interest. And in the great reactions

which attend human progress, when self-interest is acknowledged as the

supreme god everywhere, and the ideals of justice and honor are set out

of sight and derided, let the heart of this country be strong to protest

against military usurpation, against barbarous rule. Let America invite

to her shores the dethroned heroes of liberal thought and policy, saying

to them: "Come and abide with us; we have a country, a hand, a heart,

for you."

The Salon in America

THE word "society" has reached the development of two opposite meanings.

The generic term applies to the body politic _en masse_; the specific

term is technically used to designate a very limited portion of that

body. The use, nowadays, of the slang expression "sassiety" is evidence

that we need a word which we do not as yet possess.

It is with this department of the human fellowship that I now propose to

occupy myself, and especially with one of its achievements, considered

by some a lost art,--the salon.

This prelude of mine is somewhat after the manner of _Polonius_, but, as

Shakespeare must have had occasion to observe, the mind of age has ever

a retrospective turn. Those of us who are used to philosophizing must

always go back from a particular judgment to some governing principle

which we have found, or think we have found, in long experience. The

question whether salons are possible in America leads my thoughts to

other questions which appear to me to lie behind this one, and which

primarily concern the well-being of civilized man.

The uses of society, in the sense of an assemblage for social

intercourse, may be briefly stated as follows: first of all, such

assemblages are needed, in order to make people better friends.

Secondly, they are needed to enlarge the individual mind by the

interchange of thought and expression with other minds. Thirdly, they

are needed for the utilization of certain sorts and degrees of talent

which would not be available either for professional, business, or

educational work, but which, appropriately combined and used, can

forward the severe labors included under these heads, by the

instrumentality of sympathy, enjoyment, and good taste.

Any social custom or institution which can accomplish one or more of

these ends will be found of important use in the work of civilization;

but here, as well as elsewhere, the ends which the human heart desires

are defeated by the poverty of human judgment and the general ignorance

concerning the relation of means to ends. Society, thus far, is a sort

of lottery, in which there are few prizes and many blanks, and each of

these blanks represents some good to which men and women are entitled,

and which they should have, and could, if they only knew how to come at

it.

Thus, social intercourse is sometimes so ordered that it develops

antagonism instead of harmony, and makes one set of people the enemies

of another set, dividing not only circles, but friendships and

families. This state of things defeats society's first object, which, in

my view, is to make people better friends. Secondly, it will happen, and

not seldom, that the frequent meeting together of a number of people,

necessarily restricted, instead of enlarging the social horizon of the

individual, will tend to narrow it more and more, so that sets and

cliques will revolve around small centres of interest, and refuse to

extend their scope.

In this way, end number two, the enlargement of the individual mind is

lost sight of, and, end number three, the interchange of thought and

experience does not have room to develop itself.

People say what they think others want to hear: they profess experiences

which they have never had. Here, consequently, a sad blank is drawn,

where we might well look for the greatest prize; and, end number four,

the utilization of secondary or even tertiary talents is defeated by the

application of a certain fashion varnish, which effaces all features of

individuality, and produces a wondrously dull surface, where we might

have hoped for a brilliant variety of form and color.

These defects of administration being easily recognized, the great

business of social organizations ought to be to guard against them in

such wise that the short space and limited opportunity of individual

life should have offered to it the possibility of a fair and generous

investment, instead of the uncertain lottery of which I spoke just now.

One of the great needs of society in all times is that its guardians

shall take care that rules or institutions devised for some good end

shall not become so perverted in the use made of them as to bring about

the result most opposed to that which they were intended to secure.

This, I take it, is the true meaning of the saying that "the price of

liberty is eternal vigilance," no provision to secure this being sure to

avail, without the constant direction of personal care to the object.

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