CHAPTER I

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THE

COLLECTED WORKS OF WILLIAM HAZLITT

IN TWELVE VOLUMES

VOLUME NINE

_All rights reserved_

THE COLLECTED WORKS OF

WILLIAM HAZLITT

EDITED BY A. R. WALLER

AND ARNOLD GLOVER

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY

W. E. HENLEY

❦

The Principal

Picture-Galleries in England

Notes of a Journey through France and Italy

Miscellaneous Essays on the Fine Arts

❦

1903

LONDON: J. M. DENT _&_ CO.

McCLURE, PHILLIPS _&_ CO.: NEW YORK

Edinburgh: T. and A. CONSTABLE, Printers to His Majesty

------------------------------------------------------------------------

CONTENTS

PAGE

THE PRINCIPAL PICTURE-GALLERIES IN ENGLAND 1

NOTES OF A JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY 83

MISCELLANEOUS ESSAYS ON THE FINE ARTS 305

NOTES 439

APPENDIX 489

SKETCHES OF THE PRINCIPAL PICTURE-GALLERIES IN ENGLAND WITH A CRITICISM

ON ‘MARRIAGE A-LA-MODE’

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE

_Sketches of the Principal Picture-Galleries in England. With a

Criticism on ‘Marriage a-la-mode,’_ appeared in a small 8vo. volume (6½

in. × 4 in.) in 1824, ‘Printed for Taylor and Hessey, 93, Fleet-Street,

and 13, Waterloo-Place, Pall-Mall.’ The last page bears advertisements

of the _Characters of Shakspeare’s Plays_, _Lectures on the English

Poets_, and _Lectures on the English Comic Writers_. The printer’s name,

given behind the half-title, is ‘T. Green, 76 Fleet-street.’

Four pages of Taylor & Hessey’s announcements (‘Booksellers to H.R.H.

the Prince Leopold’) are bound up with the volume.

The present text is that of the 1824 volume.

The _Sketches_ formed part of the two volumes of ‘Criticisms on Art,’

collected and edited by his son in 1843–4, and of the one volume of

‘Essays on the Fine Arts,’ edited by Mr. W. C. Hazlitt in 1873.

ADVERTISEMENT

It is the object of the following little work to give an account of the

principal Picture-Galleries in this country, and to describe the

feelings which they naturally excite in the mind of a lover of art.

Almost all those of any importance have been regularly gone through. One

or two, that still remain unnoticed, may be added to our _catalogue

raisonnée_ at a future opportunity. It may not be improper to mention

here that Mr. Angerstein’s pictures have been lately purchased for the

commencement of a National Gallery, but are still to be seen in their

old places on the walls of his house.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Mr. Angerstein’s Collection 7

Dulwich Gallery 17

The Marquis of Stafford’s Gallery 27

Pictures at Windsor Castle 36

Pictures at Hampton Court 42

Lord Grosvenor’s Collection 49

Pictures at Wilton and Stourhead 55

Pictures at Burleigh House 62

Pictures at Oxford and Blenheim 69

APPENDIX

Criticism on Marriage a-la-Mode 75

PICTURE-GALLERIES IN ENGLAND

MR. ANGERSTEIN’S COLLECTION

Oh! Art, lovely Art! ‘Balm of hurt minds, chief nourisher in life’s

feast, great Nature’s second course!’ Time’s treasurer, the unsullied

mirror of the mind of man! Thee we invoke, and not in vain, for we find

thee here retired in thy plentitude and thy power! The walls are dark

with beauty; they frown severest grace. The eye is not caught by glitter

and varnish; we see the pictures by their own internal light. This is

not a bazaar, a raree-show of art, a Noah’s ark of all the Schools,

marching out in endless procession; but a sanctuary, a holy of holies,

collected by taste, sacred to fame, enriched by the rarest products of

genius. For the number of pictures, Mr. Angerstein’s is the finest

gallery, perhaps, in the world. We feel no sense of littleness: the

attention is never distracted for a moment, but concentrated on a few

pictures of first-rate excellence. Many of these _chef-d’œuvres_ might

occupy the spectator for a whole morning; yet they do not interfere with

the pleasure derived from each other—so much consistency of style is

there in the midst of variety!

We know of no greater treat than to be admitted freely to a Collection

of this sort, where the mind reposes with full confidence in its

feelings of admiration, and finds that idea and love of conceivable

beauty, which it has cherished perhaps for a whole life, reflected from

every object around it. It is a cure (for the time at least) for

low-thoughted cares and uneasy passions. We are abstracted to another

sphere: we breathe empyrean air; we enter into the minds of Raphael, of

Titian, of Poussin, of the Caracci, and look at nature with their eyes;

we live in time past, and seem identified with the permanent forms of

things. The business of the world at large, and even its pleasures,

appear like a vanity and an impertinence. What signify the hubbub, the

shifting scenery, the fantoccini figures, the folly, the idle fashions

without, when compared with the solitude, the silence, the speaking

looks, the unfading forms within?—Here is the mind’s true home. The

contemplation of truth and beauty is the proper object for which we were

created, which calls forth the most intense desires of the soul, and of

which it never tires. A capital print-shop (Molteno’s or Colnaghi’s) is

a point to aim at in a morning’s walk—a relief and satisfaction in the

motley confusion, the littleness, the vulgarity of common life: but a

print-shop has but a mean, cold, meagre, petty appearance after coming

out of a fine Collection of Pictures. We want the size of life, the

marble flesh, the rich tones of nature, the diviner expanded expression.

Good prints are no doubt, better than bad pictures; or prints, generally

speaking, are better than pictures; for we have more prints of good

pictures than of bad ones: yet they are for the most part but hints,

loose memorandums, outlines in little of what the painter has done. How

often, in turning over a number of choice engravings, do we tantalise

ourselves by thinking ‘what a head _that_ must be,’—in wondering what

colour a piece of drapery is of, green or black,—in wishing, in vain, to

know the exact tone of the sky in a particular corner of the picture!

Throw open the folding-doors of a fine Collection, and you see all you

have desired realised at a blow—the bright originals starting up in

their own proper shape, clad with flesh and blood, and teeming with the

first conceptions of the painter’s mind! The disadvantage of pictures

is, that they cannot be multiplied to any extent, like books or prints;

but this, in another point of view, operates probably as an advantage,

by making the sight of a fine original picture an event so much the more

memorable, and the impression so much the deeper. A visit to a genuine

Collection is like going a pilgrimage—it is an act of devotion performed

at the shrine of Art! It is as if there were but one copy of a book in

the world, locked up in some curious casket, which, by special favour,

we had been permitted to open, and peruse (as we must) with unaccustomed

relish. The words would in that case leave stings in the mind of the

reader, and every letter appear of gold. The ancients, before the

invention of printing, were nearly in the same situation with respect to

books, that we are with regard to pictures; and at the revival of

letters, we find the same unmingled satisfaction, or fervid enthusiasm,

manifested in the pursuit or the discovery of an old manuscript, that

connoisseurs still feel in the purchase and possession of an antique

cameo, or a fine specimen of the Italian school of painting. Literature

was not then cheap and vulgar, nor was there what is called a _reading

public_; and the pride of intellect, like the pride of art, or the pride

of birth, was confined to the privileged few!

We sometimes, in viewing a celebrated Collection, meet with an old

favourite, a _first love_ in such matters, that we have not seen for

many years, which greatly enhances the delight. We have, perhaps,

pampered our imaginations with it all that time; its charms have sunk

deep into our minds; we wish to see it once more, that we may confirm

our judgment, and renew our vows. The _Susannah and the Elders_ at Mr.

Angerstein’s was one of those that came upon us under these

circumstances. We had seen it formerly, among other visions of our

youth, in the Orleans Collection,—where we used to go and look at it by

the hour together, till our hearts thrilled with its beauty, and our

eyes were filled with tears. How often had we thought of it since, how

often spoken of it!—There it was still, the same lovely phantom as

ever—not as when Rousseau met Madame de Warens, after a lapse of twenty

years, who was grown old and wrinkled—but as if the young Jewish Beauty

had been just surprised in that unguarded spot—crouching down in one

corner of the picture, the face turned back with a mingled expression of

terror, shame, and unconquerable sweetness, and the whole figure (with

the arms crossed) shrinking into itself with bewitching grace and

modesty! It is by Ludovico Caracci, and is worthy of his name, from its

truth and purity of design, its expression and its mellow depth of tone.

Of the _Elders_, one is represented in the attitude of advancing towards

her, while the other beckons her to rise. We know of no painter who

could have improved upon the Susannah, except Correggio, who, with all

his capricious blandishments, and wreathed angelic smiles, would hardly

have given the same natural unaffected grace, the same perfect

womanhood.

There is but one other picture in the Collection, that strikes us, as a

matter of taste or fancy, like this; and that is the _Silenus teaching a

Young Apollo to play on the pipe_—a small oblong picture, executed in

distemper, by Annibal Caracci. The old preceptor is very fine, with a

jolly, leering, pampered look of approbation, half inclining to the

brute, half-conscious of the God; but it is the Apollo that constitutes

the charm of the picture, and is indeed divine. The whole figure is full

of simple careless grace, laughing in youth and beauty; he holds the

Pan’s-pipe in both hands, looking up with timid wonder; and the

expression of delight and surprise at the sounds he produces is not to

be surpassed. The only image we would venture to compare with it for

innocent artless voluptuousness, is that of the shepherd-boy in Sir

Philip Sidney’s Arcadia, ‘piping as though he should never be old!’ A

comparison of this sort, we believe, may be made, in spite of the

proverb, without injustice to the painter or the poet. Both gain by it.

The idea conveyed by the one, perhaps, receives an additional grace and

lustre, while a more beautiful moral sentiment hovers round the other,

from thinking of them in this casual connection. If again it be asked,

_Which is the most admirable?_—we should answer—Both are equally

exquisite in their way, and yield the imagination all the pleasure it is

capable of—and should decline giving an invidious preference to either.

_The cup can only be full._ The young shepherd in the Arcadia wants no

outward grace to recommend him; the stripling God no hidden charm of

expression. The language of painting and poetry is intelligible enough

to mortals; the spirit of both is divine, and far too good for him, who,

instead of enjoying to the utmost height, would find an unwelcome flaw

in either. The _Silenus and Apollo_ has something of a Raffaellesque

air, with a mixture of Correggio’s arch sensibility—there is nothing of

Titian in the colouring—yet Annibal Caracci was in theory a deserter

from the first to the two last of these masters; and swore with an oath,

in a letter to his uncle Ludovico, that ‘they were the only true

painters!’

We should nearly have exhausted our stock of enthusiasm in descanting on

these two compositions, in almost any other case; but there is no danger

of this in the present instance. If we were at any loss in this respect,

we should only have to turn to the large picture of the _Raising of

Lazarus_, by Sebastian del Piombo;

——‘and still walking under,

Find some new matter to look up and wonder.’

We might dwell on the masterly strength of the drawing, the gracefulness

of the principal female figures, the high-wrought execution, the deep,

rich, _mosaic_ colouring, the massiness and bustle of the back-ground.

We think this one of the best pictures on so large a scale that we are

anywhere acquainted with. The whole management of the design has a very

noble and imposing effect, and each part severally will bear the closest

scrutiny. It is a magnificent structure built of solid and valuable

materials. The artist has not relied merely on the extent of his canvas,

or the importance of his subject, for producing a striking result—the

effect is made out by an aggregate of excellent parts. The hands, the

feet, the drapery, the heads, the features, are all fine. There is some

satisfaction in looking at a large historical picture, such as this: for

you really gain in quantity, without losing in quality; and have a

studious imitation of individual nature, combined with masculine

invention, and the comprehensive arrangement of an interesting story.

The Lazarus is very fine and bold. The flesh is well-baked, dingy, and

ready to crumble from the touch, when it is liberated from its dread

confinement to have life and motion impressed on it again. He seems

impatient of restraint, gazes eagerly about him, and looks out from his

shrouded prison on this new world with hurried amazement, as if Death

had scarcely yet resigned his power over the senses. We would wish our

artists to look at the legs and feet of this figure, and see how

correctness of finishing and a greatness of _gusto_ in design are

compatible with, and set off each other. The attendant female figures

have a peculiar grace and becoming dignity, both of expression and

attitude. They are in a style something between Michael Angelo and

Parmegiano. They take a deep interest in the scene, but it is with the

air of composure proper to the sex, who are accustomed by nature and

duty to works of charity and compassion. The head of the old man,

kneeling behind Christ, is an admirable study of drawing, execution, and

character. The Christ himself is grave and earnest, with a noble and

impressive countenance; but the figure wants that commanding air which

ought to belong to one possessed of preternatural power, and in the act

of displaying it. Too much praise cannot be given to the back-ground—the

green and white draperies of some old people at a distance, which are as

airy as they are distinct—the buildings like tombs—and the different

groups, and processions of figures, which seem to make life almost as

grave and solemn a business as death itself. This picture is said by

some to have been designed by Michael Angelo, and painted by Sebastian

del Piombo, in rivalship of some of Raphael’s works. It was in the

Orleans Gallery.

Near this large historical composition stands (or is suspended in a

case) a single head, by Raphael, of Pope Julius II. It is in itself a

Collection—a world of thought and character. There is a prodigious

weight and gravity of look, combined with calm self-possession, and

easiness of temper. It has the cast of an English countenance, which

Raphael’s portraits often have, Titian’s never. In Raphael’s the mind,

or the body, frequently prevails; in Titian’s you always see the

soul—faces ‘which pale passion loves.’ Look at the Music-piece by

Titian, close by in this Collection—it is ‘all ear,’—the expression is

evanescent as the sounds—the features are seen in a sort of dim _chiaro

scuro_, as if the confused impressions of another sense intervened—and

you might easily suppose some of the performers to have been engaged the

night before in

‘Mask or midnight serenade,

Which the starved lover to his mistress sings,

Best quitted with disdain.’[1]

The ruddy, _bronzed_ colouring of Raphael generally takes off from any

appearance of nocturnal watching and languid hectic passion! The

portrait of Julius II. is finished to a great nicety. The hairs of the

beard, the fringe on the cap, are done by minute and careful touches of

the pencil. In seeing the labour, the conscientious and modest pains,

which this great painter bestowed upon his smallest works, we cannot

help being struck with the number and magnitude of those he left behind

him. When we have a single portrait placed before us, that might seem to

have taken half a year to complete it, we wonder how the same painter

could find time to execute his Cartoons, the compartments of the

Vatican, and a thousand other matchless works. The same account serves

for both. The more we do, the more we can do. Our leisure (though it may

seem a paradox) is in proportion to our industry. The same habit of

intense application, which led our artist to bestow as much pains and

attention on the study of a single head, as if his whole reputation had

depended on it, enabled him to set about the greatest works with

alacrity, and to finish them with ease. If he had done any thing he

undertook to do, in a slovenly disreputable manner, he would (upon the

same principle) have lain idle half his time. Zeal and diligence, in

this view, make life, short as it is, long.—Neither did Raphael, it

should seem, found his historical pretensions on his incapacity to paint

a good portrait. On the contrary, the latter here looks very much like

the corner-stone of the historical edifice. Nature did not _put him

out_. He was not too great a genius to copy what he saw. He probably

thought that a deference to nature is the beginning of art, and that the

highest eminence is scaled by single steps!

On the same stand as the portrait of Julius II. is the much vaunted

Correggio—the _Christ in the Garden_. We would not give a farthing for

it. The drapery of the Christ is highly finished in a silver and azure

tone—but high finishing is not all we ask from Correggio. It is more

worthy of Carlo Dolce.—Lest we should forget it, we may mention here,

that the admired portrait of Govarcius was gone to be copied at

Somerset-house. The Academy have then, at length, fallen into the method

pursued at the British Gallery, of recommending the students to copy

from the OLD MASTERS. Well—_better late than never!_ This same portrait

is not, we think, the truest specimen of Vandyke. It has not his mild,

pensive, somewhat effeminate cast of colour and expression. His best

portraits have an air of faded gentility about them. The Govarcius has

too many streaks of blood-colour, too many marks of the pencil, to

convey an exact idea of Vandyke’s characteristic excellence; though it

is a fine imitation of Rubens’s florid manner. Vandyke’s most striking

portraits are those which look just like a gentleman or lady seen in a

looking-glass, and neither more nor less.

Of the Claudes, we prefer the St. Ursula—the _Embarking of the Five

thousand Virgins_—to the others. The water is exquisite; and the sails

of the vessels glittering in the morning sun, and the blue flags placed

against the trees, which seem like an opening into the sky behind—so

sparkling is the effect of this ambiguity in colouring—are in Claude’s

most perfect manner. The Altieri Claude is one of his noblest and most

classical compositions, with towers, and trees, and streams, and flocks,

and herds, and distant sunny vales,

——‘Where universal Pan,

Knit with the Graces and the Hours in dance,

Leads on the eternal spring:—’

but the effect of the execution has been deadened and rendered flat by

time or ill-usage. There is a dull, formal appearance, as if the

different masses of sky, of water, &c., were laid on with plates of tin

or lead. This is not a general defect in Claude: his landscapes have the

greatest quantity of inflection, the most delicate brilliancy, of all

others. A lady had been making a good copy of the _Seaport_, which is a

companion to the one we have described. We do not think these Claudes,

famous as they are, equal to Lord Egremont’s _Jacob and Laban_; to the

_Enchanted Castle_; to a green vernal Landscape, which was in Walsh

Porter’s Collection, and which was the very finest we ever saw; nor to

some others that have appeared from time to time in the British

Institution. We are sorry to make this, which may be thought an

ill-natured, remark: but, though we have a great respect for Mr.

Angerstein’s taste, we have a greater for Claude Lorraine’s reputation.

Let any persons admire these specimens of his art as much as they will

(and the more they admire them, the more we shall be gratified), and

then we will tell them, he could do far finer things than these!

There is one Rembrandt, and one N. Poussin. The Rembrandt (the _Woman

taken in Adultery_) is prodigious in colouring, in light and shade, in

pencilling, in solemn effect; but that is nearly all—

‘Of outward show

Elaborate, of inward less exact.’

Nevertheless, it is worth any money. The Christ has considerable

seriousness and dignity of aspect. The marble pavement, of which the

light is even dazzling; the figures of the two Rabbis to the right,

radiant with crimson, green, and azure; the back-ground, which seems

like some rich oil-colour smeared over a ground of gold, and where the

eye staggers on from one abyss of obscurity to another,—place this

picture in the first rank of Rembrandt’s wonderful performances. If this

extraordinary genius was the most literal and vulgar of draughtsmen, he

was the most _ideal_ of colourists. When Annibal Caracci vowed to God,

that Titian and Correggio were the only true painters, he had not seen

Rembrandt;—if he had, he would have added him to the list. The Poussin

is a _Dance of Bacchanals_: theirs are not ‘pious orgies.’ It is,

however, one of this master’s finest pictures, both in the spirit of the

execution, and the ingenuity and _equivoque_ of the invention. If the

purity of the drawing will make amends for the impurity of the design,

it may pass: assuredly the same subject, badly executed, would not be

endured; but the life of mind, the dexterity of combination displayed in

it, supply the want of decorum. The old adage, that ‘Vice, by losing all

its grossness, loses half its evil,’ seems chiefly applicable to

pictures. Thus a naked figure, that has nothing but its nakedness to

recommend it, is not fit to be hung up in decent apartments. If it is a

Nymph by Titian, Correggio’s Iö, we no longer think of its being naked;

but merely of its sweetness, its beauty, its naturalness. So far art, as

it is intellectual, has a refinement and extreme unction of its own.

Indifferent pictures, like dull people, must absolutely be moral! We

suggest this as a hint to those persons of more gallantry than

discretion, who think that to have an indecent daub hanging up in one

corner of the room, is proof of a liberality of _gusto_, and a

considerable progress in _virtù_. _Tout au contraire._

We have a clear, brown, woody _Landscape_ by Gaspar Poussin, in his fine

determined style of pencilling, which gives to earth its solidity, and

to the air its proper attributes. There are perhaps, no landscapes that

excel his in this fresh, healthy look of nature. One might say, that

wherever his pencil loves to haunt, ‘the air is delicate.’ We forgot to

notice a _St. John in the Wilderness_, by A. Caracci, which has much of

the autumnal tone, the ‘sear and yellow leaf,’ of Titian’s

landscape-compositions. A _Rape of the Sabines_, in the inner room, by

Rubens, is, we think, the most tasteless picture in the Collection: to

see plump, florid viragos struggling with bearded ruffians, and tricked

out in the flounces, furbelows, and finery of the court of Louis XIV. is

preposterous. But there is another Rubens in the outer room, which,

though fantastical and quaint, has qualities to redeem all faults. It is

an allegory of himself and his three wives, as a St. George and Holy

Family, with his children as Christ and St. John, playing with a lamb;

in which he has contrived to bring together all that is rich in antique

dresses, (black as jet, and shining like diamonds,) transparent in

flesh-colour, agreeable in landscape, unfettered in composition. The

light streams from rosy clouds; the breeze curls the branches of the

trees in the back-ground, and plays on the clear complexions of the

various scattered group. It is one of this painter’s most splendid, and,

at the same time, most solid and sharply finished productions.

Mr. Wilkie’s _Alehouse Door_ is here, and deserves to be here. Still it

is not his best; though there are some very pleasing rustic figures, and

some touching passages in it. As in his _Blind-Man’s-buff_, the groups

are too straggling, and spread over too large a surface of bare

foreground, which Mr. Wilkie does not paint well. It looks more like

putty than earth or clay. The artist has a better eye for the individual

details, than for the general tone of objects. Mr. Liston’s face in this

‘flock of drunkards’ is a smiling failure.

A portrait of Hogarth, by himself, and Sir Joshua’s half-length of Lord

Heathfield, hang in the same room. The last of these is certainly a fine

picture, well composed, richly coloured, with considerable character,

and a look of nature. Nevertheless, our artist’s pictures, seen among

standard works, have (to speak it plainly) something old-womanish about

them. By their obsolete and affected air, they remind one of antiquated

ladies of quality, and are a kind of Duchess-Dowagers in the

art—somewhere between the living and the dead.

Hogarth’s series of the _Marriage a-la-Mode_[2] (the most delicately

painted of all his pictures, and admirably they certainly are painted)

concludes the _Catalogue Raisonnée_ of this Collection.—A study of

Heads, by Correggio, and some of Mr. Fuseli’s stupendous figures from

his Milton Gallery, are on the staircase.

A CATALOGUE OF THE PICTURES IN THE ANGERSTEIN GALLERY

1. The Marriage à la Mode, No. 1. _Hogarth._

2. The Marriage à la Mode, No. 2. _Ditto._

3. The Marriage à la Mode, No. 3. _Ditto._

4. The Marriage à la Mode, No. 4. _Ditto._

5. The Marriage à la Mode, No. 5. _Ditto._

6. The Marriage à la Mode, No. 6. _Ditto._

7. Portrait of Lord Heathfield, the Defender of _Sir Joshua

Gibraltar. Reynolds._

8. His own Portrait, with his Dog. _Hogarth._

9. The Village Festival. _Wilkie._

10. The Portrait of Rubens. (Formerly in the Collection _Vandyck._

of Sir Joshua Reynolds.)

11. The Woman taken in Adultery. Painted for the _Rembrandt._

Burgomaster Six.

12. A Landscape; Evening; with Horses, Cattle, and _Cuyp._

Figures. (From the Collection of Sir Laurence Dundas.)

13. Christ praying in the Garden. _Correggio._

14. The Adoration of the Shepherds. _Rembrandt._

15. A Land Storm. (From the Lansdown Collection.) _Gaspar

Poussin._

16. Portrait of Pope Julius the Second. (From the _Raphael._

Lancillotti Palace.)

17. The Emperor Theodosius refused admittance into the _Vandyck._

Church by St. Ambrose.

18. A Landscape, with Figures; representing Abraham _Gaspar

preparing to sacrifice his son Isaac. (From the Poussin._

Colonna Palace.)

19. Portrait of Govartius. _Vandyck._

20. Pan teaching Apollo the use of the Pipe. _Annibal

Caracci._

21. A Sea-Port at Sunset, in which is represented the _Claude._

Legend of the Embarkation of St. Ursula. (Formerly in

the Barberini Palace.)

22. Erminia discovering the Shepherds: From Tasso’s _Domenichino._

‘Jerusalem Delivered.’

23. Philip the Fourth and his Queen. _Velasquez._

24. Venus and Adonis. (From the Colonna Palace.) _Titian._

25. St. John in the Wilderness. (From the Orleans _Annibal

Collection.) Caracci._

26. A Landscape, with Figures. _Claude._

27. Christ raising Lazarus. (From the Orleans _Sebastian del

Collection.) Piombo._

28. A Concert. _Titian._

29. An Italian Sea-Port at Sunset, with Figures. _Claude._

30. The Rape of Ganymede. (From the Colonna Palace.) _Titian._

31. A Sea-Port, in which is represented the Embarkation _Claude._

of the Queen of Sheba on her visit to Solomon. (From

the Collection of the Duke de Bouillon.)

32. A Study of Heads. (From the Orleans Collection.) _Correggio._

33. A Study of Heads. (From the same Collection.) _Correggio._

34. The Rape of the Sabine Women. _Rubens._

35. The Holy Family, with St. George, a Female Saint, _Rubens._

and Angels.

36. A Landscape, with Figures; representing the Marriage _Claude._

of Rebecca. (From the Collection of the Duke de

Bouillon.)

37. Susanna and the Elders. (From the Orleans _Ludov.

Collection.) Caracci._

38. A Bacchanalian Scene. _Nich.

Poussin._

THE DULWICH GALLERY

It was on the 5th of November that we went to see this Gallery. The

morning was mild, calm, pleasant: it was a day to ruminate on the object

we had in view. It was the time of year

‘When yellow leaves, or few or none, do hang

Upon the branches;’

their scattered gold was strongly contrasted with the dark green spiral

shoots of the cedar trees that skirt the road; the sun shone faint and

watery, as if smiling his last; Winter gently let go the hand of Summer,

and the green fields, wet with the mist, anticipated the return of

Spring. At the end of a beautiful little village, Dulwich College

appeared in view, with modest state, yet mindful of the olden time; and

the name of Allen and his compeers rushed full upon the memory! How many

races of school-boys have played within its walls, or stammered out a

lesson, or sauntered away their vacant hours in its shade: yet, not one

Shakspeare is there to be found among them all! The boy is clothed and

fed and gets through his accidence: but no trace of his youthful

learning, any more than of his saffron livery, is to be met with in the

man. Genius is not to be ‘constrained by mastery.’—Nothing comes of

these endowments and foundations for learning,—you might as well make

dirt-pies, or build houses with cards. Yet something _does_ come of them

too—a retreat for age, a dream in youth—a feeling in the air around

them, the memory of the past, the hope of what will never be. Sweet are

the studies of the school-boy, delicious his idle hours! Fresh and

gladsome is his waking, balmy are his slumbers, book-pillowed! He wears

a green and yellow livery perhaps; but ‘green and yellow melancholy’

comes not near him, or if it does, is tempered with youth and innocence!

To thumb his Eutropius, or to knuckle down at taw, are to him equally

delightful; for whatever stirs the blood, or inspires thought in him,

quickens the pulse of life and joy. He has only to feel, in order to be

happy; pain turns smiling from him, and sorrow is only a softer kind of

pleasure. Each sensation is but an unfolding of his new being; care,

age, sickness, are idle words; the musty records of antiquity look

glossy in his sparkling eye, and he clasps immortality as his future

bride! The coming years hurt him not—he hears their sound afar off, and

is glad. See him there, the urchin, seated in the sun, with a book in

his hand, and the wall at his back. He has a thicker wall before him—the

wall that parts him from the future. He sees not the archers taking aim

at his peace; he knows not the hands that are to mangle his bosom. He

stirs not, he still pores upon his book, and, as he reads, a slight

hectic flush passes over his cheek, for he sees the letters that compose

the word FAME glitter on the page, and his eyes swim, and he thinks that

he will one day write a book, and have his name repeated by thousands of

readers, and assume a certain signature, and write Essays and Criticisms

in a LONDON MAGAZINE, as a consummation of felicity scarcely to be

believed. Come hither, thou poor little fellow, and let us change places

with thee if thou wilt; here, take the pen and finish this article, and

sign what name you please to it; so that we may but change our dress for

yours, and sit shivering in the sun, and con over our little task, and

feed poor, and lie hard, and be contented and happy, and think what a

fine thing it is to be an author, and dream of immortality, and sleep

o’nights!

There is something affecting and monastic in the sight of this little

nursery of learning, simple and retired as it stands, just on the verge

of the metropolis, and in the midst of modern improvements. There is a

chapel, containing a copy of _Raphael’s Transfiguration_, by Julio

Romano: but the great attraction to curiosity at present is the

Collection of pictures left to the College by the late Sir Francis

Bourgeois, who is buried in a mausoleum close by. He once (it is said)

spent an agreeable day here in company with the Masters of the College

and some other friends; and he determined, in consequence, upon this

singular mode of testifying his gratitude and his respect. Perhaps,

also, some such idle thoughts as we have here recorded might have

mingled with this resolution. The contemplation and the approach of

death might have been softened to his mind by being associated with the

hopes of childhood; and he might wish that his remains should repose, in

monumental state, amidst ‘the innocence and simplicity of poor _Charity

Boys_!’ Might it not have been so?

The pictures are 356 in number, and are hung on the walls of a large

gallery, built for the purpose, and divided into five compartments. They

certainly looked better in their old places, at the house of Mr.

Desenfans (the original collector), where they were distributed into a

number of small rooms, and seen separately and close to the eye. They

are mostly cabinet-pictures; and not only does the height, at which many

of them are necessarily hung to cover a large space, lessen the effect,

but the number distracts and deadens the attention. Besides, the

skylights are so contrived as to ‘shed a dim,’ though not a ‘religious

light’ upon them. At our entrance, we were first struck by our old

friends the Cuyps; and just beyond, caught a glimpse of that fine female

head by Carlo Maratti, giving us a welcome with cordial glances. May we

not exclaim—

‘What a delicious breath _painting_ sends forth!

The violet-bed’s not sweeter.’

A fine gallery of pictures is a sort of illustration of Berkeley’s

Theory of Matter and Spirit. It is like a palace of thought—another

universe, built of air, of shadows, of colours. Every thing seems

‘palpable to feeling as to sight.’ Substances turn to shadows by the

painter’s arch-chemic touch; shadows harden into substances. ‘The eye is

made the fool of the other senses, or else worth all the rest.’ The

material is in some sense embodied in the immaterial, or, at least, we

see all things in a sort of intellectual mirror. The world of art is an

enchanting deception. We discover distance in a glazed surface; a

province is contained in a foot of canvass; a thin evanescent tint gives

the form and pressure of rocks and trees; an inert shape has life and

motion in it. Time stands still, and the dead re-appear, by means of

this ‘so potent art!’ Look at the Cuyp next the door (No. 3). It is

woven of etherial hues. A soft mist is on it, a veil of subtle air. The

tender green of the vallies beyond the gleaming lake, the purple light

of the hills, have an effect like the down on an unripe nectarine. You

may lay your finger on the canvass; but miles of dewy vapour and

sunshine are between you and the objects you survey. It is almost

needless to point out that the cattle and figures in the fore-ground,

like dark, transparent spots, give an immense relief to the perspective.

This is, we think, the finest Cuyp, perhaps, in the world. The landscape

opposite to it (in the same room) by Albert Cuyp, has a richer colouring

and a stronger contrast of light and shade, but it has not that tender

bloom of a spring morning (so delicate, yet so powerful in its effect)

which the other possesses. _Two Horses_, by Cuyp (No. 74), is another

admirable specimen of this excellent painter. It is hard to say, which

is most true to nature—the sleek, well-fed look of the bay horse, or the

bone and spirit of the dappled iron-grey one, or the face of the man who

is busy fastening a girth. Nature is scarcely more faithful to itself,

than this delightfully _unmannered_, unaffected picture is to it. In the

same room there are several good Tenierses, and a small _Head of an old

Man_, by Rembrandt, which is as smoothly finished as a miniature. No.

10, _Interior of an Ale-house_, by Adrian Brouwer, almost gives one a

sick head-ache; particularly, the face and figure of the man leaning

against the door, overcome with ‘potations pottle deep.’ Brouwer united

the depth and richness of Ostade to the spirit and felicity of Teniers.

No. 12, _Sleeping Nymph and Satyr_, and 59, _Nymph and Satyr_, by

Polemberg, are not pictures to our taste. Why should any one make it a

rule never to paint any thing but this one subject? Was it to please

himself or others? The one shows bad taste, the other wrong judgment.

The grossness of the selection is hardly more offensive than the

finicalness of the execution. No. 49, a _Mater Dolorosa_, by Carlo

Dolce, is a very good specimen of this master; but the expression has

too great a mixture of piety and pauperism in it. It is not altogether

spiritual. No. 51, _A School with Girls at work_, by Crespi, is a most

rubbishly performance, and has the look of a modern picture. It was, no

doubt, painted in the fashion of the time, and is now old-fashioned.

Every thing has this modern, or rather uncouth and obsolete look, which,

besides the temporary and local circumstances, has not the free look of

nature. Dress a figure in what costume you please (however fantastic,

however barbarous), but add the expression which is common to all faces,

the properties that are common to all drapery in its elementary

principles, and the picture will belong to all times and places. It is

not the addition of individual circumstances, but the omission of

general truth, that makes the little, the deformed, and the short-lived

in art. No. 183, _Religion in the Desart_, a sketch by Sir Francis

Bourgeois, is a proof of this remark. There are no details, nor is there

any appearance of permanence or sta[bility about it. It] seems to have

been painted yesterday, and to labour under premature decay. It has a

look of being half done, and you have no wish to see it finished. No.

53, _Interior of a Cathedral_, by Sanadram, is curious and fine. From

one end of the perspective to the other—and back again—would make a

morning’s walk.

In the SECOND ROOM, No. 90, a _Sea Storm_, by Backhuysen, and No. 93, _A

Calm_, by W. Vandervelde, are equally excellent, the one for its gloomy

turbulence, and the other for its glassy smoothness. 92, _Landscape with

Cattle and Figures_, is by Both, who is, we confess, no great favourite

of ours. We do not like his straggling branches of trees without masses

of foliage, continually running up into the sky, merely to let in the

landscape beyond. No. 96, _Blowing Hot and Cold_, by Jordaens, is as

fine a picture as need be painted. It is full of character, of life, and

pleasing colour. It is rich and not gross. 98, _Portrait of a Lady_,

said in the printed Catalogue to be by Andrea Sacchi, is surely by Carlo

Maratti, to whom it used to be given. It has great beauty, great

elegance, great expression, and great brilliancy of execution; but every

thing in it belongs to a more polished style of art than Andrea Sacchi.

Be this as it may, it is one of the most perfect pictures in the

collection. Of the portraits of known individuals in this room, we wish

to say but little, for we can say nothing good. That of _Mr. Kemble_, by

Beechey, is perhaps the most direct and manly. In this room is Rubens’s

_Sampson and Delilah_, a coarse daub—at least, it looks so between two

pictures by Vandyke, _Charity_, and a _Madonna and Infant Christ_. That

painter probably never produced any thing more complete than these two

compositions. They have the softness of air, the solidity of marble: the

pencil appears to float and glide over the features of the face, the

folds of the drapery, with easy volubility, but to mark every thing with

a precision, a force, a grace indescribable. Truth seems to hold the

pencil, and elegance to guide it. The attitudes are exquisite, and the

expression all but divine. It is not like Raphael’s, it is true—but

whose else was? Vandyke was born in Holland, and lived most of his time

in England!—There are several capital pictures of horses, &c. by

Wouvermans, in the same room, particularly the one with a hay-cart

loading on the top of a rising ground. The composition is as striking

and pleasing as the execution is delicate. There is immense knowledge

and character in Wouvermans’ horses—an ear, an eye turned round, a

cropped tail, give you their history and thoughts—but from the want of a

little arrangement, his figures look too often like spots on a dark

ground. When they are properly relieved and disentangled from the rest

of the composition, there is an appearance of great life and bustle in

his pictures. His horses, however, have too much of the _manège_ in

them—he seldom gets beyond the camp or the riding school.—This room is

rich in master-pieces. Here is the _Jacob’s Dream_, by Rembrandt, with

that sleeping figure, thrown like a bundle of clothes in one corner of

the picture, by the side of some stunted bushes, and with those winged

shapes, not human, nor angelical, but bird-like, dream-like, treading on

clouds, ascending, descending through the realms of endless light, that

loses itself in infinite space! No one else could ever grapple with this

subject, or stamp it on the willing canvass in its gorgeous obscurity

but Rembrandt! Here also is the _St. Barbara_, of Rubens, fleeing from

her persecutors; a noble design, as if she were scaling the steps of

some high overhanging turret, moving majestically on, with Fear before

her, Death behind her, and Martyrdom crowning her:—and here is an

eloquent landscape by the same master-hand, the subject of which is, a

shepherd piping his flock homewards through a narrow defile, with a

graceful group of autumnal trees waving on the edge of the declivity

above, and the rosy evening light streaming through the clouds on the

green moist landscape in the still lengthening distance. Here (to pass

from one kind of excellence to another with kindly interchange) is a

clear sparkling _Waterfall_, by Ruysdael, and Hobbima’s _Water-Mill_,

with the wheels in motion, and the ducks paddling in the restless

stream. Is not this a sad anti-climax from Jacob’s Dream to a picture of

a Water-Mill? We do not know; and we should care as little, could we but

paint either of the pictures.

‘Entire affection scorneth nicer hands.’

If a picture is admirable in its kind, we do not give ourselves much

trouble about the subject. Could we paint as well as Hobbima, we should

not envy Rembrandt: nay, even as it is, while we can relish both, we

envy neither!

The CENTRE ROOM commences with a _Girl at a Window_, by Rembrandt. The

picture is known by the print of it, and is one of the most remarkable

and pleasing in the Collection. For clearness, for breadth, for a

lively, ruddy look of healthy nature, it cannot be surpassed. The

execution of the drapery is masterly. There is a story told of its being

his servant-maid looking out of a window, but it is evidently the

portrait of a mere child.—_A Farrier shoeing an Ass_, by Berchem, is in

his usual manner. There is truth of character and delicate finishing;

but the fault of all Berchem’s pictures is, that he continues to finish

after he has done looking at nature, and his last touches are different

from hers. Hence comes that resemblance to _tea-board_ painting, which

even his best works are chargeable with. We find here one or two small

Claudes of no great value; and two very clever specimens of the

court-painter, Watteau, the Gainsborough of France. They are marked as

Nos. 184 and 194, _Fête Champêtre_, and _Le Bal Champêtre_. There is

something exceedingly light, agreeable, and characteristic in this

artist’s productions. He might almost be said to breathe his figures and

his flowers on the canvas—so fragile is their texture, so evanescent is

his touch. He unites the court and the country at a sort of salient

point—you may fancy yourself with Count Grammont and the beauties of

Charles II. in their gay retreat at Tunbridge Wells. His trees have a

drawing-room air with them, an appearance of gentility and etiquette,

and nod gracefully over-head; while the figures below, thin as air, and

_vegetably_ clad, in the midst of all their affectation and grimace,

seem to have just sprung out of the ground, or to be the fairy

inhabitants of the scene in masquerade. They are the Oreads and Dryads

of the Luxembourg! Quaint association, happily effected by the pencil of

Watteau! In the _Bal Champêtre_ we see Louis XIV. himself dancing,

looking so like an old beau, his face flushed and puckered up with gay

anxiety; but then the satin of his slashed doublet is made of the

softest leaves of the water-lily; Zephyr plays wanton with the curls of

his wig! We have nobody who could produce a companion to this picture

now: nor do we very devoutly wish it. The Louis the Fourteenths are

extinct, and we suspect their revival would hardly be compensated even

by the re-appearance of a Watteau.—No. 187, _the Death of Cardinal

Beaufort_, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, is a very indifferent and rather

unpleasant sketch of a very fine picture. One of the most delightful

things in this delightful collection is _the Portrait (195) of the

Prince of the Austurias_, by Velasquez. The easy lightness of the

childish Prince contrasts delightfully with the unwieldy figure of the

horse, which has evidently been brought all the way from the Low

Countries for the amusement of his rider. Velasquez was (with only two

exceptions, Titian and Vandyke) as fine a portrait-painter as ever

lived! In the centre room also is the _Meeting of Jacob and Rachel_, by

Murillo—a sweet picture with a fresh green landscape, and the heart of

Love in the midst of it.—There are several heads by Holbein scattered up

and down the different compartments. We need hardly observe that they

all have character in the extreme, so that we may be said to be

acquainted with the people they represent; but then they give nothing

but character, and only one part of that, _viz._ the dry, the literal,

the concrete, and fixed. They want the addition of passion and beauty;

but they are the finest _caput mortuums_ of expression that ever were

made. Hans Holbein had none of the volatile essence of genius in his

composition. If portrait-painting is the prose of the art, his pictures

are the prose of portrait-painting. Yet he is ‘a reverend name’ in art,

and one of the benefactors of the human mind. He has left faces behind

him that we would give the world to have seen, and there they

are—stamped on his canvass for ever! Who, in reading over the names of

certain individuals, does not feel a yearning in his breast to know

their features and their lineaments? We look through a small frame, and

lo! at the distance of three centuries, we have before us the figures of

Anne Boleyn, of the virtuous Cranmer, the bigoted Queen Mary, the noble

Surrey—as if we had seen them in their life-time, not perhaps in their

best moods or happiest attitudes, but as they sometimes appeared, no

doubt. We know at least what sort of looking people they were: our minds

are made easy on that score; the ‘body and limbs’ are there, and we may

‘add what flourishes’ of grace or ornament we please. Holbein’s heads

are to the finest portraits what state-papers are to history.

The first picture in the FOURTH ROOM is the _Prophet Samuel_, by Sir

Joshua. It is not the Prophet Samuel, but a very charming picture of a

little child saying its prayers. The second is, _The Education of

Bacchus_, by Nicholas Poussin. This picture makes one thirsty to look at

it—the colouring even is dry and adust. It is true _history_ in the

technical phrase, that is to say, true _poetry_ in the vulgate. The

figure of the infant Bacchus seems as if he would drink up a vintage—he

drinks with his mouth, his hands, his belly, and his whole body.

Gargantua was nothing to him. In the _Education of Jupiter_, in like

manner, we are thrown back into the infancy of mythologic lore. The

little Jupiter, suckled by a she-goat, is beautifully conceived and

expressed; and the dignity and ascendancy given to these animals in the

picture is wonderfully happy. They have a very imposing air of gravity

indeed, and seem to be by prescription ‘grand caterers and wet-nurses of

the state’ of Heaven! _Apollo giving a Poet a Cup of Water to drink_ is

elegant and classical; and _The Flight into Egypt_ instantly takes the

tone of Scripture-history. This is strange, but so it is. All things are

possible to a high imagination. All things, about which we have a

feeling, may be expressed by true genius. A dark landscape (by the same

hand) in a corner of the room is a proof of this. There are trees in the

fore-ground, with a paved road and buildings in the distance. The Genius

of antiquity might wander here, and feel itself at home.—The large

leaves are wet and heavy with dew, and the eye dwells ‘under the shade

of melancholy boughs.’ In the old collection (in Mr. Desenfans’ time)

the Poussins occupied a separated room by themselves, and it was (we

confess) a very favourite room with us.—No. 226, is a _Landscape_, by

Salvator Rosa. It is one of his very best—rough, grotesque, wild—Pan has

struck it with his hoof—the trees, the rocks, the fore-ground, are of a

piece, and the figures are subordinate to the landscape. The same dull

sky lowers upon the scene, and the bleak air chills the crisp surface of

the water. It is a consolation to us to meet with a fine Salvator. His

is one of the great names in art, and it is among our sources of regret

that we cannot always admire his works as we would do, from our respect

to his reputation and our love of the man. Poor Salvator! he was unhappy

in his life-time; and it vexes us to think that we cannot make him

amends by fancying him so great a painter as some others, whose fame was

not their only inheritance!—227, _Venus and Cupid_, is a delightful copy

after Correggio. We have no such regrets or qualms of conscience with

respect to him. ‘He has had his reward.’ The weight of his renown

balances the weight of barbarous coin that sunk him to the earth. Could

he live now, and know what others think of him, his misfortunes would

seem as dross compared with his lasting glory, and his heart would melt

within him at the thought, with a sweetness that only his own pencil

could express. 233, _The Virgin, Infant Christ, and St. John_, by Andrea

del Sarto, is exceedingly good.—290, Another _Holy Family_, by the same,

is an admirable picture, and only inferior to Raphael. It has delicacy,

force, thought, and feeling. ‘What lacks it then,’ to be equal to

Raphael? We hardly know, unless it be a certain firmness and freedom,

and glowing animation. The execution is more timid and laboured. It

looks like a picture (an exquisite one, indeed), but Raphael’s look like

the divine reality itself!—No. 234, _Cocles defending the Bridge_, is by

Le Brun. We do not like this picture, nor 271, _The Massacre of the

Innocents_, by the same artist. One reason is that they are French, and

another that they are not good. They have great merit, it is true, but

their merits are only splendid sins. They are mechanical, mannered,

colourless, and unfeeling.—No. 237, is Murillo’s _Spanish Girl with

Flowers_. The sun tinted the young gipsey’s complexion, and not the

painter.—No. 240, is _The Casatella and Villa of Mæcenas, near Tivoli_,

by Wilson, with his own portrait in the fore-ground. It is an imperfect

sketch; but there is a curious anecdote relating to it, that he was so

delighted with the waterfall itself, that he cried out, while painting

it: ‘Well done, water, by G—d!’—No. 243, _Saint Cecilia_, by Guercino,

is a very pleasing picture, in his least gaudy manner.—No. 251, _Venus

and Adonis_, by Titian. We see so many of these Venuses and Adonises,

that we should like to know which is the true one. This is one of the

best we have seen. We have two Francesco Molas in this room, the _Rape

of Proserpine_, and a _Landscape with a Holy Family_. This artist dipped

his pencil so thoroughly in Titian’s palette, that his works cannot fail

to have that rich, mellow look, which is always delightful.—No. 303,

_Portrait of Philip the Fourth of Spain_, by Velasquez, is purity and

truth itself. We used to like the _Sleeping Nymph_, by Titian, when we

saw it formerly in the little entrance-room at Desenfans’, but we cannot

say much in its praise here.

The FIFTH ROOM is the smallest, but the most precious in its

contents.—No. 322, _Spanish Beggar Boys_, by Murillo, is the triumph of

this Collection, and almost of painting. In the imitation of common

life, nothing ever went beyond it, or as far as we can judge, came up to

it. A Dutch picture is mechanical, and mere _still-life_ to it. But this

is life itself. The boy at play on the ground is miraculous. It is done

with a few dragging strokes of the pencil, and with a little tinge of

colour; but the mouth, the nose, the eyes, the chin, are as brimful as

they can hold of expression, of arch roguery, of animal spirits, of

vigorous, elastic health. The vivid, glowing, cheerful look is such as

could only be found beneath a southern sun. The fens and dykes of

Holland (with all our respect for them) could never produce such an

epitome of the vital principle. The other boy, standing up with the

pitcher in his hand, and a crust of bread in his mouth, is scarcely less

excellent. His sulky, phlegmatic indifference speaks for itself. The

companion to this picture, 324, is also very fine. Compared with these

imitations of nature, as faultless as they are spirited, Murillo’s

Virgins and Angels however good in themselves, look vapid, and even

vulgar. A _Child Sleeping_, by the same painter, is a beautiful and

masterly study.—No. 329, a _Musical Party_, by Giorgione, is well worthy

of the notice of the connoisseur. No. 331, _St. John Preaching in the

Wilderness_, by Guido, is an extraordinary picture, and very unlike this

painter’s usual manner. The colour is as if the flesh had been stained

all over with brick-dust. There is, however, a wildness about it which

accords well with the subject, and the figure of St. John is full of

grace and gusto.—No. 344, _The Martyrdom of St. Sebastian_, by the same,

is much finer, both as to execution and expression. The face is imbued

with deep passion.—No. 345, _Portrait of a Man_, by L. da Vinci, is

truly simple and grand, and at once carries you back to that age.—_Boors

Merry Making_, by Ostade, is fine; but has no business where it is. Yet

it takes up very little room.—No. 347, _Portrait of Mrs. Siddons, in the

character of the Tragic Muse_, by Sir Joshua, appears to us to resemble

neither Mrs. Siddons, nor the Tragic Muse. It is in a bastard style of

art. Sir Joshua had an importunate theory of improving upon nature. He

might improve upon indifferent nature, but when he had got the finest,

he thought to improve upon that too, and only spoiled it.—No. 349, _The

Virgin and Child_, by Correggio, can only be a copy.—No. 332, _The

Judgment of Paris_, by Vanderwerf, is a picture, and by a master, that

we hate. He always chooses for his subjects naked figures of women, and

tantalises us by making them of coloured ivory. They are like hard-ware

toys.—No. 354, _a Cardinal Blessing a Priest_, by P. Veronese, is

dignified and picturesque in the highest degree.—No. 355, _The Adoration

of the Shepherds_, by Annibal Caracci, is an elaborate, but not very

successful performance.—No. 356, _Christ bearing his Cross_, by Morales,

concludes the list, and is worthy to conclude it.

THE MARQUIS OF STAFFORD’S GALLERY

Our intercourse with the dead is better than our intercourse with the

living. There are only three pleasures in life, pure and lasting, and

all derived from inanimate things—books, pictures, and the face of

nature. What is the world but a heap of ruined friendships, but the

grave of love? All other pleasures are as false and hollow, vanishing

from our embrace like smoke, or like a feverish dream. Scarcely can we

recollect that they were, or recall without an effort the anxious and

momentary interest we took in them.—But thou, oh! divine _Bath of

Diana_, with deep azure eyes, with roseate hues, spread by the hand of

Titian, art still there upon the wall, another, yet the same that thou

wert five-and-twenty years ago, nor wantest

——‘Forked mountain or blue promontory

With Trees upon’t that nod unto the world,

And mock our eyes with air!’

And lo! over the clear lone brow of Tuderley and Norman Court, knit into

the web and fibres of our heart, the sighing grove waves in the autumnal

air, deserted by Love, by Hope, but forever haunted by Memory! And there

that fine passage stands in Antony and Cleopatra as we read it long ago

with exalting eyes in Paris, after puzzling over a tragedy of Racine’s,

and cried aloud: ‘Our Shakspeare was also a poet!’ These feelings are

dear to us at the time; and they come back unimpaired, heightened,

mellowed, whenever we choose to go back to them. We turn over the leaf

and ‘volume of the brain,’ and there see them face to face.—Marina in

Pericles complains that

‘Life is as a storm hurrying her from her friends!’

Not so from the friends above-mentioned. If we bring but an eye, an

understanding, and a heart to them, we find them always with us, always

the same. The change, if there is one, is in us, not in them. Oh! thou

then, whoever thou art, that dost seek happiness in thyself, independent

on others, not subject to caprice, not mocked by insult, not snatched

away by ruthless hands, over which Time has no power, and that Death

alone cancels, seek it (if thou art wise) in books, in pictures, and the

face of nature, for these alone we may count upon as friends for life!

While we are true to ourselves, they will not be faithless to us. While

we remember any thing, we cannot forget them. As long as we have a wish

for pleasure, we may find it here; for it depends only on our love for

them, and not on theirs for us. The enjoyment is purely _ideal_, and is

refined, unembittered, unfading, for that reason.

A complaint has been made of the short-lived duration of works of art,

and particularly of pictures; and poets more especially are apt to

lament and to indulge in an elegiac strain over the fragile beauties of

the sister-art. The complaint is inconsiderate, if not invidious. _They

will last our time._ Nay, they have lasted centuries before us, and will

last centuries after us; and even when they are no more, will leave a

shadow and a cloud of glory behind them, through all time. Lord Bacon

exclaims triumphantly, ‘Have not the poems of Homer lasted

five-and-twenty hundred years, and not a syllable of them is lost?’ But

it might be asked in return, ‘Have not many of the Greek statues now

lasted almost as long, without losing a particle of their splendour or

their meaning, while the Iliad (except to a very few) has become almost

a dead letter?’ Has not the Venus of Medicis had almost as many

partisans and admirers as the Helen of the old blind bard? Besides, what

has Phidias gained in reputation even by the discovery of the Elgin

Marbles? Or is not Michael Angelo’s the greatest name in modern art,

whose works we only know from description and by report? Surely, there

is something in a name, in wide-spread reputation, in endless renown, to

satisfy the ambition of the mind of man. Who in his works would vie

immortality with nature? An epitaph, an everlasting monument in the dim

remembrance of ages, is enough below the skies. Moreover, the sense of

final inevitable decay _humanises_, and gives an affecting character to

the triumphs of exalted art. Imperishable works executed by perishable

hands are a sort of insult to our nature, and almost a contradiction in

terms. They are ungrateful children, and mock the makers. Neither is the

noble idea of antiquity legibly made out without the marks of the

progress and lapse of time. That which is as good now as ever it was,

seems a thing of yesterday. Nothing is old to the imagination that does

not appear to grow old. Ruins are grander and more venerable than any

modern structure can be, or than the oldest could be if kept in the most

entire preservation. They convey the perspective of time. So the Elgin

Marbles are more impressive from their mouldering, imperfect state. They

transport us to the Parthenon, and old Greece. The Theseus is of the age

of Theseus: while the Apollo Belvidere is a modern fine gentleman; and

we think of this last figure only as an ornament to the room where it

happens to be placed.—We conceive that those are persons of narrow minds

who cannot relish an author’s style that smacks of time, that has a

crust of antiquity over it, like that which gathers upon old wine. These

sprinklings of _archaisms_ and obsolete turns of expression (so

abhorrent to the fashionable reader) are intellectual links that connect

the generations together, and enlarge our knowledge of language and of

nature. Of the two, we prefer _black-letter_ to hot-pressed paper. Does

not every language change and wear out? Do not the most popular writers

become quaint and old-fashioned every fifty or every hundred years? Is

there not a constant conflict of taste and opinion between those who

adhere to the established and triter modes of expression, and those who

affect glossy innovations, in advance of the age? It is pride enough for

the best authors _to have been read_. This applies to their own country;

and to all others, they are ‘a book sealed.’ But Rubens is as good in

Holland as he is in Flanders, where he was born, in Italy or in Spain,

in England, or in Scotland—no, there alone he is _not_ understood. The

Scotch understand nothing but what is Scotch. What has the dry, husky,

economic eye of Scotland to do with the florid hues and luxuriant

extravagance of Rubens? Nothing. They like Wilkie’s _pauper_ style

better. It may be said that translations remedy the want of universality

of language: but prints give (at least) as good an idea of pictures as

translations do of poems, or of any productions of the press that employ

the colouring of style and imagination. Gil Blas is translateable;

Racine and Rousseau are not. The mere English student knows more of the

character and spirit of Raphael’s pictures in the Vatican, than he does

of Ariosto or Tasso from Hoole’s Version. There is, however, one

exception to the catholic language of painting, which is in French

pictures. They are national fixtures, and ought never to be removed from

the soil in which they grow. They will not answer any where else, nor

are they worth Custom-House Duties. Flemish, Dutch, Spanish, Italian,

are all good and intelligible in their several ways—we know what they

mean—they require no interpreter: but the French painters see nature

with organs and with minds peculiarly their own. One must be born in

France to understand their painting, or their poetry. Their productions

in art are either literal, or extravagant—dry, frigid _fac-similes_, in

which they seem to take up nature by pin-points, or else vapid distorted

caricatures, out of all rule and compass. They are, in fact, at home

only in the light and elegant; and whenever they attempt to add force or

solidity (as they must do in the severer productions of the pencil) they

are compelled to substitute an excess of minute industry for a

comprehension of the whole, or make a desperate mechanical effort at

extreme expression, instead of giving the true, natural, and powerful

workings of passion. Their representations of nature are meagre

skeletons, that bear the same relation to the originals that botanical

specimens, enclosed in a portfolio, flat, dry, hard, and pithless, do to

flourishing plants and shrubs. Their historical figures are painful

outlines, or graduated elevations of the common statues, spiritless,

colourless, motionless, which have the form, but none of the power of

the _antique_. What an abortive attempt is the _Coronation of Napoleon_,

by the celebrated David, lately exhibited in this country! It looks like

a finished sign-post painting—a sea of frozen outlines.—Could the artist

make nothing of ‘the foremost man in all this world,’ but a stiff,

upright figure? The figure and attitude of the Empress are, however,

pretty and graceful; and we recollect one face in profile, of an

ecclesiastic, to the right, with a sanguine look of health in the

complexion, and a large benevolence of soul. It is not Monsieur

Talleyrand, whom the late Lord Castlereagh characterised as a worthy man

and his friend. His Lordship was not a physiognomist! The whole of the

shadowed part of the picture seems to be enveloped in a shower of blue

powder.—But to make amends for all that there is or that there is not in

the work, David has introduced his wife and his two daughters; and in

the Catalogue has given us the places of abode, and the names of the

husbands of the latter. This is a little out of place: yet these are the

people who laugh at our blunders. We do not mean to extend the above

sweeping censure to Claude, or Poussin: of course they are excepted: but

even in them the national character lurked amidst unrivalled excellence.

If Claude has a fault, it is that he is finical; and Poussin’s figures

might be said by a satirist to be antique puppets. To proceed to our

task.—

The first picture that struck us on entering the Marquis of Stafford’s

Gallery (a little bewildered as we were with old recollections, and

present objects) was the _Meeting of Christ and St. John_, one of

Raphael’s master-pieces. The eager ‘child-worship’ of the young St.

John, the modest retirement and dignified sweetness of the Christ, and

the graceful, matron-like air of the Virgin bending over them, full and

noble, yet feminine and elegant, cannot be surpassed. No words can

describe them to those who have not seen the picture:—the attempt is

still vainer to those who have. There is, however, a very fine engraving

of this picture, which may be had for a trifling sum.—No glory is around

the head of the Mother, nor is it needed: but the soul of the painter

sheds its influence over it like a dove, and the spirit of love,

sanctity, beauty, breathes from the divine group. There are four

Raphaels (Holy Families) in this collection, two others by the side of

this in his early more precise and affected manner, somewhat faded, and

a small one of the _Virgin, Sleeping Jesus, and St. John_, in his finest

manner. There is, or there was, a duplicate of this picture (of which

the engraving is also common) in the Louvre, which was certainly

superior to the one at the Marquis of Stafford’s. The colouring of the

drapery in that too was cold, and the face of the Virgin thin and poor;

but never was infancy laid asleep more calmly, more sweetly, more

soundly, than in the figure of Our Saviour—the little pouting mouth

seemed to drink balmy, innocent sleep—and the rude expression of wonder

and delight in the more robust, sun-burnt, fur-clad figure of St. John

was as spirited in itself as it was striking, when contrasted with the

meeker beauties of the figure opposed to it.—From these we turn to the

Four Ages, by Titian, or Giorgione, as some say. Strange that there

should have lived two men in the same age, on the same spot of earth,

with respect to whom it should bear a question—which of them painted

such a picture! Barry, we remember, and Collins, the miniature-painter,

thought it a Giorgione, and they were considered two of the best judges

_going_, at the time this picture was exhibited, among others, in the

Orleans Gallery. We cannot pretend to decide on such nice matters _ex

cathedra_; but no painter need be ashamed to own it. The gradations of

human life are marked with characteristic felicity, and the landscape,

which is thrown in, adds a pastoral charm and _naïveté_ to the whole. To

live or to die in such a chosen, still retreat must be happy!—Certainly,

this composition suggests a beautiful moral lesson; and as to the

painting of the group of children in the corner, we suppose, for

careless freedom of pencil, and a certain milky softness of the flesh,

it can scarcely be paralleled. Over the three Raphaels is a _Danae_, by

Annibal Caracci, which we used to adore where it was hung on high in the

Orleans Gallery. The face is fine, upturned, expectant; and the figure

no less fine, desirable, ample, worthy of a God.—The golden shower is

just seen descending; the landscape at a distance has (so fancy might

interpret) a cold, shuddering aspect. There is another very fine picture

of the same hand close by, _St. Gregory with Angels_. It is difficult to

know which to admire most, the resigned and yet earnest expression of

the Saint, or the elegant forms, the graceful attitudes, and bland,

cordial, benignant faces of the attendant angels. The artist in these

last has evidently had an eye to Correggio, both in the waving outline,

and in the charm of the expression; and he has succeeded admirably, but

not entirely. Something of the extreme unction of Correggio is wanting.

The drawing of Annibal’s Angels is, perhaps, too firm, too sinewy, too

masculine. In Correggio, the Angel’s spirit seemed to be united to a

human body, to imbue, mould, penetrate every part with its sweetness and

softness: in Caracci, you would say that a heavenly spirit inhabited,

looked out of, moved a goodly human frame,

‘And o’er-informed the tenement of clay.’

The composition of this picture is rather forced (it was one of those

_made to order_ for the monks) and the colour is somewhat metallic; but

it has, notwithstanding, on the whole, a striking and tolerably

harmonious effect.—There is still another picture by Caracci (also an

old favourite with us, for it was in the Orleans set) _Diana and Nymphs

bathing_, with the story of Calisto. It is one of his very best, with

something of the drawing of the antique, and the landscape-colouring of

Titian. The figures are all heroic, handsome, such as might belong to

huntresses, or Goddesses: and the coolness and seclusion of the scene,

under grey over-hanging cliffs, and brown overshadowing trees, with all

the richness and truth of nature, have the effect of an enchanting

reality.—The story and figures are more classical and better managed

than those of the _Diana and Calisto_ by Titian; but there is a charm in

that picture and the fellow to it, the _Diana and Actæon_, (there is no

other fellow to it in the world!) which no words can convey. It is the

charm thrown over each by the greatest genius for colouring that the

world ever saw. It is difficult, nay, impossible to say which is the

finest in this respect: but either one or the other (whichever we turn

to, and we can never be satisfied with looking at either—so rich a scene

do they unfold, so serene a harmony do they infuse into the soul) is

like a divine piece of music, or rises ‘like an exhalation of rich

distilled perfumes.’ In the figures, in the landscape, in the water, in

the sky, there are tones, colours, scattered with a profuse and unerring

hand, gorgeous, but most true, dazzling with their force, but blended,

softened, woven together into a woof like that of Iris—tints of flesh

colour, as if you saw the blood circling beneath the pearly skin; clouds

empurpled with setting suns; hills steeped in azure skies; trees turning

to a mellow brown; the cold grey rocks, and the water so translucent,

that you see the shadows and the snowy feet of the naked nymphs in it.

With all this prodigality of genius, there is the greatest severity and

discipline of art. The figures seem grouped for the effect of colour—the

most striking contrasts are struck out, and then a third object, a piece

of drapery, an uplifted arm, a bow and arrows, a straggling weed, is

introduced to make an intermediate tint, or carry on the harmony. Every

colour is melted, _impasted_ into every other, with fine keeping and

bold diversity. Look at that indignant, queen-like figure of Diana (more

perhaps like an offended mortal princess, than an immortal Goddess,

though the immortals could frown and give themselves strange airs), and

see the snowy, ermine-like skin; the pale clear shadows of the

delicately formed back; then the brown colour of the slender trees

behind to set off the shaded flesh; and last, the dark figure of the

Ethiopian girl behind, completing the gradation. Then the bright scarf

suspended in the air connects itself with the glowing clouds, and

deepens the solemn azure of the sky: Actæon’s bow and arrows fallen on

the ground are also red; and there is a little flower on the brink of

the Bath which catches and pleases the eye, saturated with this colour.

The yellowish grey of the earth purifies the low tone of the figures

where they are in half-shadow; and this again is enlivened by the

leaden-coloured fountain of the Bath, which is set off (or kept down in

its proper place) by the blue vestments strown near it. The figure of

Actæon is spirited and natural; it is that of a bold rough hunter in the

early ages, struck with surprise, abashed with beauty. The forms of some

of the female figures are elegant enough, particularly that of Diana in

the story of Calisto; and there is a very pretty-faced girl

mischievously dragging the culprit forward; but it is the texture of the

flesh that is throughout delicious, unrivalled, surpassingly fair. The

landscape canopies the living scene with a sort of proud, disdainful

consciousness. The trees nod to it, and the hills roll at a distance in

a sea of colour. Every where tone, not form, predominates—there is not a

distinct line in the picture—but a gusto, a rich taste of colour is left

upon the eye as if it were the palate, and the diapason of picturesque

harmony is full to overflowing. ‘Oh Titian and Nature! which of you

copied the other?’

We are ashamed of this description, now that we have made it, and

heartily wish somebody would make a better. There is another Titian here

(which was also in the Orleans Gallery),[3] _Venus rising from the sea_.

The figure and face are gracefully designed and sweetly

expressed:—whether it is the picture of the Goddess of Love, may admit

of a question; that it is the picture of a lovely woman in a lovely

attitude, admits of none. The half-shadow in which most of it is

painted, is a kind of veil through which the delicate skin shows more

transparent and aerial. There is nothing in the picture but this single

exquisitely turned figure, and if it were continued downward to a

whole-length, it would seem like a copy of a statue of the Goddess

carved in ivory or marble; but being only a half-length, it has not this

effect at all, but looks like an enchanting study, or a part of a larger

composition, selected _a l’envie_. The hair, and the arm holding it up,

are nearly the same as in the well-known picture of _Titian’s Mistress_,

and as delicious. The back-ground is beautifully painted. We said

before, that there was no object in the picture detached from the

principal figure. Nay, there is the sea, and a sea-shell, but these

might be given in sculpture.—Under the _Venus_, is a portrait by

Vandyke, of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, a most gentleman-like

performance, mild, clear, intelligent, unassuming; and on the right of

the spectator, a _Madonna_, by Guido, with the icy glow of sanctity upon

it; and to the left, the _Fable of Salmacis_, by Albano (saving the

ambiguity of the subject), exquisitely painted. Four finer specimens of

the art can scarcely be found again in so small a compass. There is in

another room a portrait, said to be by Moroni, and called TITIAN’S

SCHOOL-MASTER, from a vague tradition, that he was in the habit of

frequently visiting, in order to study and learn from it. If so, he must

have profited by his assiduity; for it looks as if he had painted it.

Not knowing any thing of Moroni, if we had been asked who had done it,

we should have replied, ‘_Either Titian or the Devil_.’[4] It is

considerably more laboured and minute than Titian; but the only

objection at all staggering is, that it has less fiery animation than is

ordinarily to be found in his pictures. Look at the portrait above it,

for instance—Clement VII. by the great Venetian; and you find the eye

looking at you again, as if it had been observing you all the time: but

the eye in _Titian’s School-master_ is _an eye to look at, not to look

with_,[5] or if it looks _at_ you, it does not look _through_ you, which

may be almost made a test of Titian’s heads. There is not the spirit,

the intelligence within, moulding the expression, and giving it

intensity of purpose and decision of character. In every other respect

but this (and perhaps a certain want of breadth) it is as good as

Titian. There is (we understand) a half-length of Clement VII. by Julio

Romano, in the Papal Palace at Rome, in which he is represented as

seated above the spectator, with the head elevated and the eye looking

down like a camel’s, with an amazing dignity of aspect. The picture (Mr.

Northcote says) is hard and ill-coloured, but, in strength of character

and conception, superior to the Titian at the Marquis of Stafford’s.

Titian, undoubtedly, put a good deal of his own character into his

portraits. He was not himself filled with the ‘milk of human kindness.’

He got his brother, who promised to rival him in his own art, and of

whom he was jealous, sent on a foreign embassy; and he so frightened

Pordenone while he was painting an altar-piece for a church, that he

worked with his palette and brushes in his hand, and a sword by his

side.

We meet with one or two admirable portraits, particularly No. 112, by

Tintoretto, which is of a fine fleshy tone, and _A Doge of Venice_, by

Palma Vecchio, stamped with an expressive look of official and assumed

dignity. There is a Bassan, No. 95, _The Circumcision_, the colours of

which are somewhat dingy with age, and sunk into the canvas; but as the

sun shone upon it while we were looking at it, it glittered all green

and gold. Bassan’s execution is as fine as possible, and his colouring

has a most striking harmonious effect.—We must not forget the

_Muleteers_, supposed to be by Correggio, in which the figure of the

Mule seems actually passing across the picture (you hear his bells); nor

the little copy of his _Marriage of St. Catherine_, by L. Caracci, which

is all over grace, delicacy, and sweetness. Any one may judge of his

progress in a taste for the refinements of art, by his liking for this

picture. Indeed, Correggio is the very essence of refinement. Among

other pictures in the Italian division of the gallery, we would point

out the Claudes (particularly Nos. 43 and 50,) which, though inferior to

Mr. Angerstein’s as compositions, preserve more of the delicacy of

execution, (or what Barry used to call ‘_the fine oleaginous touches of

Claude_‘)—two small Gaspar Poussins, in which the landscape seems to

have been just washed by a shower, and the storm blown over—the _Death

of Adonis_, by Luca Cambiasi, an Orleans picture, lovely in sorrow, and

in speechless agony, and faded like the life that is just expiring in

it—a _Joseph and Potiphar’s Wife_, by Alessandro Veronese, a very

clever, and sensible, but rigidly painted picture[6]—an Albert Durer,

the _Death of the Virgin_—a _Female head_, by Leonardo da Vinci—and _the

Woman taken in Adultery_, by Pordenone, which last the reader may admire

or not, as he pleases. We cannot close this list without referring to

the _Christ bearing his cross_, by Domenichino, a picture full of

interest and skill; and the little touching allegory of the _Infant

Christ sleeping on a cross_, by Guido.

The Dutch School contains a number of excellent specimens of the best

masters. There are two Tenierses, a _Fair_, and _Boors merry-making_,

unrivalled for a look of the open air, for lively awkward gesture, and

variety and grotesqueness of grouping and rustic character. There is a

little picture, by Le Nain, called the _Village Minstrel_, with a set of

youthful auditors, the most incorrigible little mischievous urchins we

ever saw, but with admirable execution and expression. The Metzus are

curious and fine—the Ostades admirable. Gerard Douw’s own portrait is

certainly a gem. We noticed a Ruysdael in one corner of the room (No.

221), a dark, flat, wooded country, but delectable in tone and

pencilling. Vandevelde’s Sea-pieces are capital—the water is smooth as

glass, and the boats and vessels have the buoyancy of butterflies on it.

The _Seaport_, by A. Cuyp, is miraculous for truth, brilliancy, and

clearness, almost beyond actual water. These cannot be passed over; but

there is a little picture which we beg to commend to the gentle reader,

the Vangoyen, at the end of the room, No. 156, which has that

yellow-tawny colour in the meads, and that grey chill look in the old

convent, that give one the precise feeling of a mild day towards the end

of winter, in a humid, marshy country. We many years ago copied a

Vangoyen, a view of a Canal ‘with yellow tufted banks and gliding sail,’

modestly pencilled, truly felt—and have had an affection for him ever

since. There is a small inner room with some most respectable modern

pictures. Wilkie’s _Breakfast-table_ is among them.

_The Sacraments_, by N. Poussin, occupy a separate room by themselves,

and have a grand and solemn effect; but we could hardly see them where

they are; and in general, we prefer his treatment of light and classical

subjects to those of sacred history. He wanted _weight_ for the last;

or, if that word is objected to, we will change it, and say _force_.

On the whole, the Stafford Gallery is probably the most magnificent

Collection this country can boast. The specimens of the different

schools are as numerous as they are select; and they are equally

calculated to delight the student by the degree, or to inform the

uninitiated by the variety of excellence. Yet even this Collection is

not complete. It is deficient in Rembrandts, Vandykes, and Rubenses;

except one splendid allegory and fruit-piece by the last.

THE PICTURES AT WINDSOR CASTLE

The palaces of Windsor and Hampton-court contain pictures worthy of the

feelings we attach to the names of those places. The first boasts a

number of individual pictures of great excellence and interest, and the

last the Cartoons.

Windsor Castle is remarkable in many respects. Its tall, grey, square

towers, seated on a striking eminence, overlook for many miles the

subjacent country, and, eyed in the distance, lead the mind of the

solitary traveller to romantic musing; or, approached nearer, give the

heart a quicker and stronger pulsation. Windsor, besides its

picturesque, commanding situation, and its being the only palace in the

kingdom fit for the receptacle of ‘a line of kings,’ is the scene of

many classical associations. Who can pass through Datchet, and the

neighbouring greensward paths, and not think of Falstaff, of Ann Page,

and the oak of Herne the hunter? Or if he does not, still he is affected

by them as if he did. The tall slim deer glance startled by, in some

neglected track of memory, and fairies trip it in the unconscious haunts

of the imagination! Pope’s lines on Windsor Forest also suggest

themselves to the mind in the same way, and make the air about it

delicate. Gray has consecrated the same spot by his _Ode on a Distant

Prospect of Eton College_; and the finest passage in Burke’s writings is

his comparison of the British Monarchy to ‘the proud Keep of Windsor.’

The walls and massy towers of Windsor Castle are indeed built of solid

stone, weather-beaten, time-proof; but the image answering to them in

the mind’s eye is woven of pure thought and the airy films of the

imagination—Arachne’s web not finer!

The rooms are chill and comfortless at this time of the year,[7] and

gilded ceilings look down on smoky fire-places. The view from the

windows, too, which is so rich and glowing in the summer-time, is

desolate and deformed with the rains overflowing the marshy grounds. As

to physical comfort, one seems to have no more of it in these tapestried

halls and on marble floors, than the poor bird driven before the pelting

storm, or the ploughboy seeking shelter from the drizzling sky, in his

sheep-skin jacket and clouted shoes, beneath the dripping, leafless

spray. The palace does not (more than the hovel) always defend us

against the winter’s cold. The apartments are also filled with too many

rubbishly pictures of kings and queens—there are too many of Verrio’s

paintings, and a whole roomful of West’s; but there are ten or twenty

pictures which the eye, having once seen, never loses sight of, and that

make Windsor one of the retreats and treasuries of art in this country.

These, however, are chiefly pictures which have a personal and

individual interest attached to them, as we have already hinted: there

are very few historical compositions of any value, and the subjects of

the others are so desultory that the young person who shows them, and

goes through the names of the painters and portraits very correctly,

said she very nearly went out of her mind in the three weeks she was

‘studying her part.’ It is a matter of nomenclature: we hope we shall

make as few blunders in our report as she did.

In the first room the stranger is shown into, there are two large

landscapes by Zuccarelli. They are clever, well-painted pictures; but

they are worth nothing. The fault of this artist is, that there is

nothing absolutely good or bad in his pictures. They are mere

handicraft. The whole is done with a certain mechanical ease and

indifference; but it is evident no part of the picture gave him any

pleasure, and it is impossible it should give the spectator any. His

only ambition was to execute his task so as to save his credit; and your

first impulse is, to turn away from the picture, and save your time.

In the next room, there are four Vandykes—two of them excellent. One is

the Duchess of Richmond, a whole-length, in a white satin drapery, with

a pet lamb. The expression of her face is a little sullen and

capricious. The other, the Countess of Carlisle, has a shrewd, clever,

sensible countenance; and, in a certain archness of look, and the

contour of the lower part of the face, resembles the late Mrs.

Jordan.—Between these two portraits is a copy after Rembrandt, by

Gainsborough, a fine _sombre_, mellow head, with the hat flapped over

the face.

Among the most delightful and interesting of the pictures in this

Collection, is the portrait by Vandyke, of Lady Venetia Digby. It is an

allegorical composition: but what truth, what purity, what delicacy in

the execution! You are introduced into the presence of a beautiful woman

of quality of a former age, and it would be next to impossible to

perform an unbecoming action with that portrait hanging in the room. It

has an air of nobility about it, a spirit of humanity within it. There

is a dove-like innocence and softness about the eyes; in the clear,

delicate complexion, health and sorrow contend for the mastery; the

mouth is sweetness itself, the nose highly intelligent, and the forehead

is one of ‘clear-spirited thought.’ But misfortune has touched all this

grace and beauty, and left its canker there. This is shown no less by

the air that pervades it, than by the accompanying emblems. The children

in particular are exquisitely painted, and have an evident reference to

those we lately noticed in the _Four Ages_, by Titian. This portrait,

both from the style and subject, reminds one forcibly of Mrs.

Hutchinson’s admirable Memoirs of her own Life. Both are equally

history, and the history of the female heart (depicted, in the one case,

by the pencil, in the other, by the pen) in the finest age of female

accomplishment and pious devotion. Look at this portrait, breathing the

beauty of virtue, and compare it with the ‘Beauties’ of Charles II.’s

court, by Lely. They look just like what they were—a set of

kept-mistresses, painted, tawdry, showing off their theatrical or

meretricious airs and graces, without one trace of real elegance or

refinement, or one spark of sentiment to touch the heart. Lady Grammont

is the handsomest of them; and, though the most voluptuous in her attire

and attitude, the most decent. The Duchess of Portsmouth, in her helmet

and plumes, looks quite like a heroine of romance or modern Amazon; but

for an air of easy assurance, inviting admiration, and alarmed at

nothing but being thought coy, commend us to my lady——above, in the

sky-blue drapery, thrown carelessly across her shoulders! As paintings,

these celebrated portraits cannot rank very high. They have an affected

ease, but a real hardness of manner and execution; and they have that

contortion of attitude and setness of features which we afterwards find

carried to so disgusting and insipid an excess in Kneller’s portraits.

Sir Peter Lely was, however, a better painter than Sir Godfrey

Kneller—that is the highest praise that can be accorded to him. He had

more spirit, more originality, and was the livelier coxcomb of the two!

Both these painters possessed considerable mechanical dexterity, but it

is not of a refined kind. Neither of them could be ranked among great

painters, yet they were thought by their contemporaries and themselves

superior to every one. At the distance of a hundred years we see the

thing plainly enough.

In the same room with the portrait of Lady Digby, there is one of

Killigrew and Carew, by the same masterly hand. There is spirit and

character in the profile of Carew, while the head of Killigrew is

surprising from its composure and sedateness of aspect. He was one of

the grave wits of the day, who made nonsense a profound study, and

turned trifles into philosophy, and philosophy into a jest. The pale,

sallow complexion of this head is throughout in wonderful keeping. The

beard and face seem nearly of the same colour. We often see this clear

uniform colour of the skin in Titian’s portraits. But then the dark

eyes, beard, and eye-brows, give relief and distinctness. The fair hair

and complexions, that Vandyke usually painted, with the almost total

absence of shade from his pictures, made the task more difficult; and,

indeed, the prominence and effect he produces in this respect, without

any of the usual means, are almost miraculous.

There are several of his portraits, equestrian and others, of Charles I.

in this Collection, some of them good, none of them first-rate. Those of

Henrietta (his Queen) are always delightful. The painter has made her

the most lady-like of Queens, and of women.

The family picture of the Children of Charles I. is certainly admirably

painted and managed. The large mastiff-dog is inimitably fine and true

to nature, and seems as if he was made to be pulled about by a parcel of

royal infants from generation to generation. In general, it may be

objected to Vandyke’s _dressed_ children, that they look like little old

men and women. His grown-up people had too much stiffness and formality;

and the same thing must quite overlay the playfulness of infancy. Yet

what a difference between these young princes of the House of Stuart,

and two of the princes of the reigning family with their mother, by

Ramsay, which are evident likenesses to this hour!

We have lost our reckoning as to the order of the pictures and rooms in

which they are placed, and must proceed promiscuously through the

remainder of our Catalogue.

One of the most noted pictures at Windsor is that of the _Misers_, by

Quintin Matsys. Its name is greater than its merits, like many other

pictures which have a lucky or intelligible subject, boldly executed.

The conception is good, the colouring bad; the drawing firm, and the

expression coarse and obvious. We are sorry to speak at all

disparagingly of Quintin Matsys; for the story goes that he was

originally bred a blacksmith, and turned painter to gain his master’s

daughter, who would give her hand to no one but on that condition. Happy

he who thus gained the object of his love, though posterity may differ

about his merits as an artist! Yet it is certain, that any romantic

incident of this kind, connected with a well-known work, inclines us to

regard it with a favourable instead of a critical eye, by enhancing our

pleasure in it; as the eccentric character, the wild subjects, and the

sounding name of Salvator Rosa have tended to lift him into the highest

rank of fame among painters.

In the same room with the _Misers_, by the Blacksmith of Antwerp, is a

very different picture by Titian, consisting of two figures also, _viz._

Himself and a Venetian Senator. It is one of the finest specimens of

this master. His own portrait is not much: it has spirit, but is hard,

with somewhat of a vulgar, knowing look. But the head of the Senator is

as fine as anything that ever proceeded from the hand of man. The

expression is a lambent flame, a soul of fire dimmed, not quenched by

age. The flesh _is_ flesh. If Rubens’s pencil fed upon roses, Titian’s

was _carnivorous_. The tone is betwixt a gold and silver hue. The

texture and pencilling are marrowy. The dress is a rich crimson, which

seems to have been growing deeper ever since it was painted. It is a

front view. As far as attitude or action is concerned, it is mere

_still-life_; but the look is of that kind that goes through you at a

single glance. Let any one look well at this portrait, and if he then

sees nothing in it, or in the portraits of this painter in general, let

him give up _virtù_ and criticism in despair.

This room is rich in valuable gems, which might serve as a test of a

real taste for the art, depending for their value on intrinsic

qualities, and not on imposing subjects, or mechanical arrangement or

quantity. As where ‘the still, small voice of reason’ is wanting, we

judge of actions by noisy success and popularity; so where there is no

true moral sense in art, nothing goes down but pomp, and bustle, and

pretension. The eye of taste looks to see if a work has nature’s finest

image and superscription upon it, and for no other title and passport to

fame. There is a _Young Man’s Head_, (we believe in one corner of this

room) by Holbein, in which we can read high and heroic thoughts and

resolutions, better than in any _Continence of Scipio_ we ever saw, or

than in all the _Battles of Alexander_ thrown into a lump. There is a

_Portrait of Erasmus_, by the same, and in the same or an adjoining

room, in which we see into the mind of a scholar and of an amiable man,

as through a window. There is a _Head_ by Parmegiano, lofty, triumphant,

showing the spirit of another age and clime—one by Raphael, studious and

self-involved—another, said to be by Leonardo da Vinci (but more like

Holbein) grown crabbed with age and thought—and a girl reading, by

Correggio, intent on her subject, and not forgetting herself. These are

the materials of history; and if it is not made of them, it is a

nickname or a mockery. All that does not lay open the fine net-work of

the heart and brain of man, that does not make us see deeper into the

soul, is but the apparatus and machinery of history-painting, and no

more to it than the frame is to the picture.

We noticed a little _Mater Dolorosa_ in one of the rooms, by Carlo

Dolci, which is a pale, pleasing, expressive head. There are two large

figures of his, a _Magdalen_ and another, which are in the very falsest

style of colouring and expression; and _Youth and Age_, by Denner, which

are in as perfectly bad a taste and style of execution as anything we

ever saw of this artist, who was an adept in that way.

We are afraid we have forgotten one or two meritorious pictures which we

meant to notice. There is one we just recollect, a _Portrait of a Youth_

in black, by Parmegiano. It is in a singular style, but very bold,

expressive, and natural. There is (in the same apartment of the palace)

a fine picture of the _Battle of Norlingen_, by Rubens. The size and

spirit of the horses in the fore-ground, and the obvious animation of

the riders, are finely contrasted with the airy perspective and

mechanical grouping of the armies at a distance; and so as to prevent

that confusion and want of positive relief, which usually pervade

Battle-pieces. In the same room (opposite) is Kneller’s _Chinese

converted to Christianity_—a portrait of which he was justly proud. It

is a fine oil-picture, clear, tawny, without trick or affectation, and

full of character. One of Kneller’s fine ladies or gentlemen, with their

wigs and _toupées_, would have been mortally offended to have been so

painted. The Chinese retains the same oily sly look, after his

conversion as before, and seems just as incapable of a change of

religion as a piece of _terra cotta_. On each side of this performance

are two Guidos, the _Perseus and Andromeda_, and _Venus attired by the

Graces_. We give the preference to the former. The Andromeda is a fine,

noble figure, in a striking and even daring position, with an

impassioned and highly-wrought expression of features; and the whole

scene is in harmony with the subject. The _Venus attired by the Graces_

(though full of beauties, particularly the colouring of the flesh in the

frail Goddess) is formal and disjointed in the composition; and some of

the actions are void of grace and even of decorum. We allude

particularly to the _Maid-in-waiting_, who is combing her hair, and to

the one tying on her sandals, with her arm crossing Venus’s leg at right

angles. The Cupid in the window is as light and wanton as a butterfly

flying out of it. He may be said to flutter and hover in his own

delights. There are two capital engravings of these pictures by Strange.

THE PICTURES AT HAMPTON COURT

This palace is a very magnificent one, and we think, has been

undeservedly neglected. It is Dutch-built, of handsome red brick, and

belongs to a class of houses, the taste for which appears to have been

naturalised in this country along with the happy introduction of the

Houses of Orange and Hanover. The approach to it through Bushy-Park is

delightful, inspiriting at this time of year; and the gardens about it,

with their close-clipped holly hedges and arbours of evergreen, look an

artificial summer all the year round. The statues that are interspersed

do not freeze in winter, and are cool and classical in the warmer

seasons. The _Toy-Inn_ stands opportunely at the entrance, to invite the

feet of those who are tired of a straggling walk from Brentford or Kew,

or oppressed with thought and wonder after seeing the Cartoons.

Besides these last, however, there are several fine pictures here. We

shall pass over the Knellers, the Verrios, and the different portraits

of the Royal Family, and come at once to the _Nine Muses_, by Tintoret.

Or rather, his Nine Muses are summed up in one, the back-figure in the

right-hand corner as you look at the picture, which is all grandeur,

elegance, and grace.—We should think that in the _gusto_ of form and a

noble freedom of outline, Michael Angelo could hardly have surpassed

this figure. The face too, which is half turned round, is charmingly

handsome. The back, the shoulders, the legs, are the perfection of bold

delicacy, expanded into full-blown luxuriance, and then retiring as it

were from their own proud beauty and conscious charms into soft and airy

loveliness—

‘Fine by degrees, and beautifully less.’

Is it a Muse? Or is it not a figure formed for action more than

contemplation? Perhaps this hypercritical objection may be true; and it

might without any change of character or impropriety be supposed, from

its buoyancy, its ease, and sinewy elasticity, to represent the quivered

Goddess shaping her bow for the chase. But, at any rate, it is the

figure of a Goddess, or of a woman in shape equal to a Goddess. The

colour is nearly gone, so that it has almost the tone of a black and

white chalk-drawing; and the effect of form remains pure and unrivalled.

There are several other very pleasing and ably-drawn figures in the

group, but they are eclipsed in the superior splendour of this one. So

far the composition is faulty, for its balance is destroyed; and there

are certain critics who could probably maintain that the picture would

be better, if this capital excellence in it had been deliberately left

out: the picture would, indeed, have been more according to rule, and to

the taste of those who judge, feel, and see by rule only! Among the

portraits which are curious, is one of _Baccio Bandinelli_, with his

emblems and implements of sculpture about him, said to be by Correggio.

We cannot pretend to give an opinion on this point; but it is a

studious, powerful, and elaborately painted head. We find the name of

Titian attached to two or three portraits in the Collection. There is

one very fine one of a young man in black, with a black head of hair,

the face seen in a three-quarter view, and the dark piercing eye, full

of subtle meaning, looking round at you; which is probably by Titian,

but certainly not (as it is pretended) of himself. It has not the

aquiline cast of features by which his own portraits are obviously

distinguished. We have seen a print of this picture, in which it is said

to be done for Ignatius Loyola. The portrait of a lady with green and

white purfled sleeves (like the leaves and flower of the water-lily, and

as clear!) is admirable. It was in the Pall-Mall exhibition of the Old

Masters a short time ago; and is by Sebastian del Piombo.—The care of

the painting, the natural ease of the attitude, and the steady,

sensible, _conversable_ look of the countenance, place this in a class

of pictures, which one feels a wish to have always by one’s side,

whenever there is a want of thought, or a flaw in the temper, that

requires filling up or setting to rights by some agreeable and at the

same time not over-exciting object. There are several _soi-disant_

Parmegianos; one or two good Bassans; a _Battle-Piece_ set down to Julio

Romano; a coloured drawing (in one corner of a room) of a _Nymph_ and

_Satyr_ is very fine; and some of Polemberg’s little disagreeable

pictures of the same subject, in which the Satyrs look like paltry bits

of painted wood, and the Nymphs like glazed China-ware. We have a

prejudice against Polemberg, which is a rare thing with us!

The _Cartoons_ occupy a room by themselves—there are not many such rooms

in the world. All other pictures look like oil and varnish to these—we

are stopped and attracted by the colouring, the pencilling, the

finishing, or the want of it, that is, by the instrumentalities of the

art—but here the painter seems to have flung his _mind_ upon the canvas;

his thoughts, his great ideas alone prevail; there is nothing between us

and the subject; we look through a frame, and see scripture-histories,

and are made actual spectators of miraculous events. Not to speak it

profanely, they are a sort of _revelation_ of the subjects, of which

they treat; there is an ease and freedom of manner about them, which

brings preternatural characters and situations home to us, with the

familiarity of common every-day occurrences; and while the figures fill,

raise, and satisfy the mind, they seem to have cost the painter nothing.

The Cartoons are _unique_ productions in the art. They are mere

intellectual, or rather _visible abstractions_ of truth and nature.

Every where else we see the means; here we arrive at the end apparently

without any means. There is a Spirit at work in the divine creation

before us. We are unconscious of any details, of any steps taken, of any

progress made; we are aware only of comprehensive results, of whole

masses and figures. The sense of power supersedes the appearance of

effort. It is like a waking dream, vivid, but undistinguishable in

member, joint, or limb; or it is as if we had ourselves seen the persons

and things at some former period of our being, and that the drawing

certain dotted lines upon coarse paper, by some unknown spell, brought

back the entire and living images, and made them pass before us,

palpable to thought, to feeling, and to sight. Perhaps not all is owing

to genius: something of this effect may be ascribed to the simplicity of

the vehicle employed in embodying the story, and something to the

decayed and dilapidated state of the pictures themselves. They are the

more majestic for being in ruin: we are struck chiefly with the truth of

proportion, and the range of conception: all the petty, meretricious

part of the art is dead in them; the carnal is made spiritual, the

corruptible has put on incorruption, and, amidst the wreck of colour,

and the mouldering of material beauty, nothing is left but a universe of

thought, or the broad, imminent shadows of ‘calm contemplation and

majestic pains!’

The first in order is the _Death of Ananias_; and it is one of the

noblest of these noble designs. The effect is striking; and the contrast

between the steadfast, commanding attitude of the Apostles, and the

convulsed and prostrate figure of Ananias on the floor, is finely

imagined. It is much as if a group of persons on shore stood to witness

the wreck of life and hope on the rocks and quicksands beneath them. The

abruptness and severity of the transition are, however, broken and

relieved by the other human interests in the picture. The Ananias is a

masterly, a stupendous figure. The attitude, the drawing, the

expression, the ease, the force, are alike wonderful. He falls so

naturally, that it seems as if a person could fall in no other way; and

yet of all the ways in which a human figure could fall, it is probably

the most expressive of a person overwhelmed by and in the grasp of

Divine vengeance. This is in some measure, we apprehend, the secret of

Raphael’s success. Most painters, in studying an attitude, puzzle

themselves to find out what will be picturesque, and what will be fine,

and never discover it: Raphael only thought how a person would stand or

fall naturally in such or such circumstances, and the _picturesque_ and

the _fine_ followed as matters of course. Hence the unaffected force and

dignity of his style, which are only another name for truth and nature

under impressive and momentous circumstances. The distraction of the

face, the inclination of the head on one side, are as fine as possible,

and the agony is just verging to that point, in which it is relieved by

death. The expression of ghastly wonder in the features of the man on

the floor next him is also remarkable; and the mingled beauty, grief,

and horror in the female head behind can never be enough admired or

extolled. The pain, the sudden and violent contraction of the muscles,

is as intense as if a sharp instrument had been driven into the

forehead, and yet the same sweetness triumphs there as ever, the most

perfect self-command and dignity of demeanour. We could hazard a

conjecture that this is what forms the great distinction between the

natural style of Raphael and the natural style of Hogarth. Both are

equally _intense_; but the one is intense littleness, meanness,

vulgarity; the other is intense grandeur, refinement, and sublimity. In

the one we see common, or sometimes uncommon and painful, circumstances

acting with all their force on narrow minds and deformed bodies, and

bringing out distorted and violent efforts at expression; in the other

we see noble forms and lofty characters contending with adverse, or

co-operating with powerful impressions from without, and imparting their

own unaltered grace, and habitual composure to them. In Hogarth,

generally, the face is excited and torn in pieces by some paltry

interest of its own; in Raphael, on the contrary, it is expanded and

ennobled by the contemplation of some event or object highly interesting

in itself: that is to say, the passion in the one is intellectual and

abstracted; the passion in the other is petty, selfish, and confined. We

have not thought it beneath the dignity of the subject to make this

comparison between two of the most extraordinary and highly gifted

persons that the world ever saw. If Raphael had seen Hogarth’s pictures,

_he_ would not have despised them. Those only can do it (and they are

welcome!) who, wanting all that he had, can do nothing that he could

not, or that they themselves pretend to accomplish by affectation and

bombast.

_Elymas the Sorcerer_ stands next in order, and is equal in merit. There

is a Roman sternness and severity in the general look of the scene. The

figure of the Apostle, who is inflicting the punishment of blindness on

the impostor, is grand, commanding, full of ease and dignity: and the

figure of Elymas is blind all over, and is muffled up in its clothes

from head to foot. A story is told of Mr. Garrick’s objecting to the

natural effect of the action, in the hearing of the late Mr. West, who,

in vindication of the painter, requested the celebrated comedian to

close his eyes and walk across the room, when he instantly stretched out

his hands, and began to grope his way with the exact attitude and

expression of this noble study. It may be worth remarking here, that

this great painter and fine observer of human nature has represented the

magician with a hard iron visage, and strong uncouth figure, made up of

bones and muscles, as one not troubled with weak nerves, nor to be

diverted from his purpose by idle scruples, as one who repelled all

sympathy with others, who was not to be moved a jot by their censures or

prejudices against him, and who could break with ease through the cobweb

snares which he laid for the credulity of mankind, without being once

entangled in his own delusions. His outward form betrays the hard,

unimaginative, self-willed understanding of the Sorcerer.—There is a

head (a profile) coming in on one side of the picture, which we would

point out to our readers as one of the most finely relieved, and best

preserved, in this series. The face of Elymas, and some others in the

picture, have been a good deal hurt by time and ill-treatment. There is

a _snuffy_ look under the nose, as if the water colour had been washed

away in some damp lumber-room, or unsheltered out-house. The Cartoons

have felt ‘the seasons’ difference,’ being exposed to wind and rain,

tossed about from place to place, and cut down by profane hands to fit

them to one of their abodes; so that it is altogether wonderful, that

‘through their looped and tattered wretchedness,’ any traces are seen of

their original splendour and beauty. That they are greatly changed from

what they were even a hundred years ago, is evident from the heads in

the Radcliffe library at Oxford, which were cut out from one of them

that was nearly destroyed by some accident, and from the large French

engravings of single heads, done about the same time, which are as

finished and correct as possible. Even Sir James Thornhill’s copies bear

testimony to the same effect. Though without the spirit of the

originals, they have fewer blots and blotches in them, from having been

better taken care of. A skeleton is barely left of the Cartoons: but

their mighty relics, like the bones of the Mammoth, tell us what the

entire and living fabric must have been!

In the _Gate Beautiful_ there is a profusion of what is fine, and of

imposing contrasts. The twisted pillars have been found fault with; but

there they stand, and will for ever stand to answer all cavillers with

their wreathed beauty. The St. John in this Cartoon is an instance of

what we have above hinted as to the ravages of time on these pictures.

In the old French engraving (half the size of life) the features are

exceedingly well marked and beautiful, whereas they are here in a great

measure defaced; and the hair, which is at present a mere clotted mass,

is woven into graceful and waving curls,

‘Like to those hanging locks

Of young Apollo.’

Great inroads have been made on the delicate outline of the other parts,

and the surface has been generally injured. The Beggars are as fine as

ever: they do not lose by the squalid condition of their garb or

features, but remain patriarchs of poverty, and mighty in disease and

infirmity, as if they crawled and grovelled on the pavement of Heaven.

They are lifted above this world! The child carrying the doves at his

back is an exquisite example of grace, and innocence, and buoyant

motion; and the face and figure of the young woman seen directly over

him give a glad welcome to the eye in their fresh, unalloyed, and

radiant sweetness and joy. This head seems to have been spared from the

unhallowed touch of injury, like a little isle or circlet of beauty. It

was guarded, we may suppose, by its own heavenly, feminine look of

smiling loveliness. There is another very fine female head on the

opposite side of the picture, of a graver cast, looking down, and nearly

in profile. The only part of this Cartoon that we object to, or should

be for _turning out_, is the lubberly naked figure of a boy close to one

of the pillars, who seems to have no sort of business there, and is an

obvious eye-sore.

The _Miraculous Draught of Fishes_ is admirable for the clearness and

prominence of the figures, for the vigorous marking of the muscles, for

the fine expression of devout emotion in the St. Peter, and for the calm

dignity in the attitude, and divine benignity in the countenance of the

Christ. Perhaps this head expresses, more than any other that ever was

attempted, the blended meekness, benevolence, and sublimity in the

character of our Saviour. The whole figure is so still, so easy, it

almost floats in air, and seems to sustain the boat by the secret sense

of power. We shall not attempt to make a formal reply to the old

objection to the diminutive size of the boat, but we confess it appears

to us to enhance the value of the miracle. Its load swells

proportionably in comparison, and the waves conspire to bear it up. The

Storks on the shore are not the least animated or elevated part of the

picture; they exult in the display of divine power, and share in the

prodigality of the occasion.

The _Sacrifice at Lystra_ has the marks of Raphael’s hand on every part

of it. You see and almost hear what is passing. What a pleasing relief

to the confused, busy scene, are the two children piping at the altar!

How finely, how unexpectedly, but naturally, that innocent rustic head

of a girl comes in over the grave countenances and weighty, thoughtful

heads of the group of attendant priests! The animals brought to be

sacrificed are equally fine in the expression of terror, and the action

of resistance to the rude force by which they are dragged along.

A great deal has been said and written on the _St. Paul preaching at

Athens_. The features of excellence in this composition are indeed so

bold and striking as hardly to be mistaken. The abrupt figure of St.

Paul, his hands raised in that fervent appeal to Him who ‘dwelleth not

in temples made with hands,’ such as are seen in gorgeous splendour all

around, the circle of his auditors, the noble and pointed diversity of

heads, the one wrapped in thought and in its cowl, another resting on a

crutch and earnestly scanning the face of the Apostle rather than his

doctrine, the careless attention of the Epicurean philosopher, the fine

young heads of the disciples of the Porch or the Academy, the clenched

fist and eager curiosity of the man in front as if he was drinking

sounds, give this picture a superiority over all the others for popular

and intelligible effect. We do not think that it is therefore the best;

but it is the easiest to describe and to remember.

The _Giving of the Keys_ is the last of them: it is at present at

Somerset-House. There is no set purpose here, no studied contrast: it is

an aggregation of grandeur and high feeling. The disciples gather round

Christ, like a flock of sheep listening to some divine shepherd. The

figure of their master is sublime: his countenance and attitude ‘in act

to speak.’ The landscape is also extremely fine and of a soothing

character.—Every thing falls into its place in these pictures. The

figures seem to stop just where their business and feelings bring them:

not a fold in the draperies can be disposed of for the better or

otherwise than it is.

It would be in vain to enumerate the particular figures, or to explain

the story of works so well known: what we have aimed at has been to shew

the spirit that breathes through them, and we shall count ourselves

fortunate, if we have not sullied them with our praise. We do not care

about some works: but these were sacred to our imaginations, and we

should be sorry indeed to have profaned them by description or

criticism. We have hurried through our unavoidable task with fear, and

look back to it with doubt.

LORD GROSVENOR’S COLLECTION OF PICTURES

We seldom quit a mansion like that of which we have here to give some

account, and return homewards, but we think of Warton’s _Sonnet, written

after seeing Wilton-house_.

‘From Pembroke’s princely dome, where mimic art

Decks with a magic hand the dazzling bowers,

Its living hues where the warm pencil pours,

And breathing forms from the rude marble start,

How to life’s humbler scenes can I depart?

My breast all glowing from those gorgeous tow’rs,

In my low cell how cheat the sullen hours?

Vain the complaint! For Fancy can impart

(To Fate superior, and to Fortune’s doom)

Whate’er adorns the stately-storied hall:

She, mid the dungeon’s solitary gloom,

Can dress the Graces in their Attic pall:

Bid the green landscape’s vernal beauty bloom;

And in bright trophies clothe the twilight wall.’

Having repeated these lines to ourselves, we sit quietly down in our

chairs to con over our task, abstract the idea of exclusive property,

and think only of those images of beauty and of grandeur, which we can

carry away with us in our minds, and have every where before us. Let us

take some of these, and describe them how we can.

There is one—we see it now—the _Man with a Hawk_, by Rembrandt. ‘In our

mind’s eye, Horatio!’ What is the difference between this idea which we

have brought away with us, and the picture on the wall? Has it lost any

of its tone, its ease, its depth? The head turns round in the same

graceful moving attitude, the eye carelessly meets ours, the tufted

beard grows to the chin, the hawk flutters and balances himself on his

favourite perch, his master’s hand; and a shadow seems passing over the

picture, just leaving a light in one corner of it behind, to give a

livelier effect to the whole. There is no mark of the pencil, no jagged

points or solid masses; it is all air, and twilight might be supposed to

have drawn his veil across it. It is as much an idea on the canvas, as

it is in the mind. There are no means employed, as far as you can

discover—you see nothing but a simple, grand, and natural effect. It is

impalpable as a thought, intangible as a sound—nay, the shadows have a

breathing harmony, and fling round an undulating echo of themselves,

‘At every fall smoothing the raven down

Of darkness till it smiles!’

In the opposite corner of the room is a _Portrait of a Female_ (by the

same), in which every thing is as clear, and pointed, and brought out

into the open day, as in the former it is withdrawn from close and

minute inspection. The face glitters with smiles as the ear-rings

sparkle with light. The whole is stiff, starched, and formal, has a

pearly or metallic look, and you throughout mark the most elaborate and

careful finishing. The two pictures make an antithesis, where they are

placed; but this was not probably at all intended: it proceeds simply

from the difference in the nature of the subject, and the truth and

appropriate power of the treatment of it.—In the middle between these

two pictures is a small history, by Rembrandt, of the _Salutation of

Elizabeth_, in which the figures come out straggling, disjointed,

quaint, ugly as in a dream, but partake of the mysterious significance

of preternatural communication, and are seen through the visible gloom,

or through the dimmer night of antiquity. Light and shade, not form or

feeling, were the elements of which Rembrandt composed the finest

poetry, and his imagination brooded only over the medium through which

we discern objects, leaving the objects themselves uninspired,

unhallowed, and untouched!

We must go through our account of these pictures as they start up in our

memory, not according to the order of their arrangement, for want of a

proper set of memorandums. Our friend, Mr. Gummow, of Cleveland-house,

had a nice little neatly-bound duodecimo Catalogue, of great use as a

_Vade Mecum_ to occasional visitants or absent critics—but here we have

no such advantage; and to take notes before company is a thing that we

abhor. It has a look of pilfering something from the pictures. While we

merely enjoy the sight of the objects of art before us, or sympathise

with the approving gaze of the greater beauty around us, it is well;

there is a feeling of luxury and refinement in the employment; but take

out a pocket-book, and begin to scribble notes in it, the date of the

picture, the name, the room, some paltry defect, some pitiful discovery

(not worth remembering), the non-essentials, the mechanic

_common-places_ of the art, and the sentiment is gone—you shew that you

have a further object in view, a job to execute, a feeling foreign to

the place, and different from every one else—you become a butt and a

mark for ridicule to the rest of the company—and you retire with your

pockets full of wisdom from a saloon of art, with as little right as you

have to carry off the dessert, (or what you have not been able to

consume,) from an inn, or a banquet. Such, at least, is our feeling; and

we had rather make a mistake now and then, as to a _numero_, or the name

of a room in which a picture is placed, than spoil our whole pleasure in

looking at a fine Collection, and consequently the pleasure of the

reader in learning what we thought of it.

Among the pictures that haunt our eye in this way is the _Adoration of

the Angels_, by N. Poussin. It is one of his finest works—elegant,

graceful, full of feeling, happy, enlivening. It is treated rather as a

classical than as a sacred subject. The Angels are more like Cupids than

Angels. They are, however, beautifully grouped, with various and

expressive attitudes, and remind one, by their half antic, half serious

homage, of the line—

‘Nod to him, elves, and do him courtesies.’

They are laden with baskets of flowers—the tone of the picture is rosy,

florid; it seems to have been painted at

‘The breezy call of incense-breathing morn,’

and the angels over-head sport and gambol in the air with

butterfly-wings, like butterflies. It is one of those rare productions

that satisfy the mind, and from which we turn away, not from weariness,

but from a fulness of delight.—The _Israelites returning Thanks in the

Wilderness_ is a fine picture, but inferior to this. Near it is a group

of Angels, said to be by Correggio. The expressions are grotesque and

fine, but the colouring does not seem to us to be his. The texture of

the flesh, as well as the hue, too much resembles the skin of ripe

fruit. We meet with several fine landscapes of the two Poussins,

(particularly one of a rocky eminence by Gaspar,) in the room before you

come to the Rembrandts, in which the mixture of grey rock and green

trees and shrubs is beautifully managed, with striking truth and

clearness.

Among detached and smaller pictures, we would wish to point out to the

attention of our readers, an exquisite head of a _Child_, by Andrea del

Sarto, and a fine Salvator in the inner room of all: in the room leading

to it, a pleasing, glassy Cuyp, an airy, earthy-looking Teniers, and _a

Mother and a Sleeping Child_, by Guido: in the Saloon, a _St.

Catherine_, one of Parmegiano’s most graceful pictures; a _St. Agnes_,

by Domenichino, full of sweetness, thought, and feeling; and two

pictures by Raphael, that have a look as if painted on paper: a _Repose

in Egypt_, and _St. Luke painting the Virgin_, both admirable for

drawing and expression, and a rich, purple, _crayon_ tone of colouring.

Wherever Raphael is, there is grace and dignity, and an informing soul.

In the last-mentioned room, near the entrance, is also a _Conversion of

Saint Paul_, by Rubens, of infinite spirit, brilliancy, and delicacy of

execution.

But it is in the large room to the right, that the splendour and power

of Rubens reign triumphant and unrivalled, and yet he has here to

contend with highest works and names. The four large pictures of

ecclesiastical subjects, the _Meeting of Abram and Melchisedec_, the

_Gathering of Manna_, the _Evangelists_, and the _Fathers of the

Church_, have no match in this country for scenic pomp, and dazzling

airy effect. The figures are colossal; and it might be said, without

much extravagance, that the drawing and colouring are so too.[8] He

seems to have painted with a huge sweeping gigantic pencil, and with

broad masses of unalloyed colour. The spectator is (as it were) thrown

back by the pictures, and surveys them, as if placed at a stupendous

height, as well as distance from him. This, indeed, is their history:

they were painted to be placed in some Jesuit’s church abroad, at an

elevation of forty or fifty feet, and Rubens would have started to see

them in a drawing-room or on the ground. Had he foreseen such a result,

he would perhaps have added something to the correctness of the

features, and taken something from the gorgeous crudeness of the colour.

But there is grandeur of composition, involution of form, motion,

character in its vast, rude outline, the imposing contrast of sky and

flesh, fine grotesque heads of old age, florid youth, and fawn-like

beauty! You see nothing but patriarchs, primeval men and women, walking

among temples, or treading the sky—or the earth, with an ‘air and

gesture proudly eminent,’ as if they trod the sky—when man first rose

from nothing to his native sublimity. We cannot describe these pictures

in their details; they are one staggering blow after another of the

mighty hand that traced them. All is cast in the same mould, all is

filled with the same spirit, all is clad in the same gaudy robe of

light. Rubens was at home here; his _forte_ was the processional, the

showy, and the imposing; he grew almost drunk and wanton with the sense

of his power over such subjects; and he, in fact, left these pictures

unfinished in some particulars, that, for the place and object for which

they were intended, they might be perfect. They were done (it is said)

for tapestries from small designs, and carried nearly to their present

state of finishing by his scholars. There is a smaller picture in the

same room, _Ixion embracing the false Juno_, which points out and

defines their style of art and adaptation for remote effect. There is a

delicacy in this last picture (which is, however of the size of life)

that makes it look like a miniature in comparison. The flesh of the

women is like lilies, or like milk strewed upon ivory. It is soft and

pearly; but, in the larger pictures, it is heightened beyond nature, the

veil of air between the spectator and the figures, when placed in the

proper position, being supposed to give the last finishing. Near the

_Ixion_ is an historical female figure, by Guido, which will not bear

any comparison for transparency and delicacy of tint with the two

Junos.—Rubens was undoubtedly the greatest _scene-painter_ in the world,

if we except Paul Veronese, and the Fleming was to him flat and insipid.

‘It is place which lessens and sets off.’ We once saw two pictures of

Rubens’ hung by the side of the _Marriage of Cana_ in the Louvre; and

they looked nothing. The Paul Veronese nearly occupied the side of a

large room (the modern French exhibition-room) and it was like looking

through the side of a wall, or at a splendid banquet and gallery, full

of people, and full of interest. The texture of the two Rubenses was

_woolly_, or flowery, or _satiny_: it was all alike; but in the

Venetian’s great work the pillars were of stone, the floor was marble,

the tables were wood, the dresses were various stuffs, the sky was air,

the flesh was flesh; the groups were living men and women. Turks,

emperours, ladies, painters, musicians—all was real, dazzling, profuse,

astonishing. It seemed as if the very dogs under the table might get up

and bark, or that at the sound of a trumpet the whole assembly might

rise and disperse in different directions, in an instant. This picture,

however, was considered as the triumph of Paul Veronese, and the two by

the Flemish artist that hung beside it were very inferior to some of

his, and assuredly to those now exhibited in the Gallery at Lord

Grosvenor’s. Neither do we wish by this allusion to disparage Rubens;

for we think him on the whole a greater genius, and a greater painter,

than the rival we have here opposed to him, as we may attempt to shew

when we come to speak of the Collection at Blenheim.

There are some divine Claudes in the same room; and they too are like

looking through a window at a select and conscious landscape. There are

five or six, all capital for the composition, and highly preserved.

There is a strange and somewhat _anomalous_ one of _Christ in the

Mount_, as if the artist had tried to contradict himself, and yet it is

Claude all over. Nobody but he could paint one single atom of it. The

_Mount_ is stuck up in the very centre of the picture, against all rule,

like a huge dirt-pye: but then what an air breathes round it, what a sea

encircles it, what verdure clothes it, what flocks and herds feed round

it, immortal and unchanged! Close by it is the _Arch of Constantine_;

but this is to us a bitter disappointment. A print of it hung in a

little room in the country, where we used to contemplate it by the hour

together, and day after day, and ‘_sigh our souls_’ into the picture. It

was the most graceful, the most perfect of all Claude’s compositions.

The Temple seemed to come forward into the middle of the picture, as in

a dance, to show its unrivalled beauty, the Vashti of the scene! Young

trees bent their branches over it with playful tenderness; and, on the

opposite side of a stream, at which cattle stooped to drink, there grew

a stately grove, erect, with answering looks of beauty: the distance

between retired into air and gleaming shores. Never was there scene so

fair, ‘so absolute, that in itself summ’d all delight.’ How did we wish

to compare it with the picture! The trees, we thought, must be of vernal

green—the sky recalled the mild dawn, or softened evening. No, the

branches of the trees are red, the sky burned up, the whole hard and

uncomfortable. This is not the picture, the print of which we used to

gaze at enamoured—there is another somewhere that we still shall see!

There are finer specimens of the _Morning_ and _Evening of the Roman

Empire_, at Lord Radnor’s, in Wiltshire. Those here have a more

polished, _cleaned_ look, but we cannot prefer them on that account. In

one corner of the room is a _St. Bruno_, by Andrea Sacchi—a fine study,

with pale face and garments, a saint dying (as it should seem)—but as he

dies, conscious of an undying spirit. The old Catholic painters put the

soul of religion into their pictures—for they felt it within themselves.

There are two Titians—_the Woman taken in Adultery_, and a large

mountainous landscape with the story of _Jupiter and Antiope_. The last

is rich and striking, but not equal to his best; and the former, we

think, one of his most exceptionable pictures, both in character, and

(we add) colouring. In the last particular, it is tricky, and discovers,

instead of concealing its art. The flesh is not transparent, but a

_transparency_! Let us not forget a fine Synders, a _Boar-hunt_, which

is highly spirited and natural, as far as the animals are concerned; but

is _patchy_, and wants the tone and general effect that Rubens would

have thrown over it. In the middle of the right-hand side of the room,

is the _Meeting of Jacob and Laban_, by Murillo. It is a lively,

out-of-door scene, full of bustle and expression; but it rather brings

us to the tents and faces of two bands of gypsies meeting on a common

heath, than carries us back to the remote times, places, and events,

treated of. Murillo was the painter of nature, not of the imagination.

There is a _Sleeping Child_ by him, over the door of the saloon (an

admirable cabinet-picture), and another of a boy, a little spirited

rustic, brown, glowing, ‘of the earth, earthy,’ the flesh thoroughly

baked, as if he had come out of an oven; and who regards you with a look

as if he was afraid you might bind him apprentice to some trade or

handicraft, or send him to a Sunday-school; and so put an end to his

short, happy, careless life—to his lessons from that great teacher, the

Sun—to his physic, the air—to his bed, the earth—and to the soul of his

very being, Liberty!

The first room you enter is filled with some very good and some very bad

English pictures. There is Hogarth’s _Distressed Poet_—the _Death of

Wolfe_, by West, which is not so good as the print would lead us to

expect—an excellent whole-length portrait of a youth, by Gainsborough—_A

Man with a Hawk_, by Northcote, and _Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse_,

by Sir Joshua. This portrait Lord Grosvenor bought the other day for

£1760. It has risen in price every time it has been sold. Sir Joshua

sold it for two or three hundred pounds to a Mr. Calonne. It was then

purchased by Mr. Desenfans who parted with it to Mr. William Smith for a

larger sum (we believe £500); and at the sale of that gentleman’s

pictures, it was bought by Mr. Watson Taylor, the last proprietor, for a

thousand guineas. While it was in the possession of Mr. Desenfans, a

copy of it was taken by a pupil of Sir Joshua’s, of the name of Score,

which is now in the Dulwich Gallery, and which we always took for an

original. The size of the original is larger than the copy. There was a

dead child painted at the bottom of it, which Sir Joshua Reynolds

afterwards disliked, and he had the canvas doubled upon the frame to

hide it. It has been let out again, but we did not observe whether the

child was there. We think it had better not be seen.

We do not wish to draw invidious comparisons; yet we may say, in

reference to the pictures in Lord Grosvenor’s Collection, and those at

Cleveland-house, that the former are distinguished most by elegance,

brilliancy, and high preservation; while those belonging to the Marquis

of Stafford look more like old pictures, and have a corresponding tone

of richness and magnificence. We have endeavoured to do justice to both,

but we confess we have fallen very short even of our own hopes and

expectations.

PICTURES AT WILTON, STOURHEAD, &c.

Salisbury Plain, barren as it is, is rich in collections and monuments

of art. There are, within the distance of a few miles, Wilton,

Longford-Castle, Fonthill-Abbey, Stourhead, and last though not least

worthy to be mentioned, Stonehenge, that ‘huge, dumb heap,’ that stands

on the blasted heath, and looks like a group of giants, bewildered, not

knowing what to do, encumbering the earth, and turned to stone, while in

the act of warring on Heaven. An attempt has lately been made to give to

it an antediluvian origin. Its mystic round is in all probability fated

to remain inscrutable, a mighty maze without a plan: but still the

imagination, when once curiosity and wonder have taken possession of it,

heaves with its restless load, launches conjecture farther and farther

back beyond the landmarks of time, and strives to bear down all

impediments in its course, as the ocean strives to overleap some vast

promontory!

Fonthill-Abbey, which was formerly hermetically sealed against all

intrusion,[9] is at present open to the whole world; and Wilton-House,

and Longford-Castle, which were formerly open to every one, are at

present shut, except to _petitioners_, and a favoured few. Why is this

greater degree of strictness in the latter instances resorted to? In

proportion as the taste for works of art becomes more general, do these

Noble Persons wish to set bounds to and disappoint public curiosity? Do

they think that the admiration bestowed on fine pictures or rare

sculpture lessens their value, or divides the property, as well as the

pleasure with the possessor? Or do they think that setting aside the

formality of these new regulations, three persons in the course of a

whole year would intrude out of an impertinent curiosity to see _their_

houses and furniture, without having a just value for them as objects of

art? Or is the expence of keeping servants to shew the apartments made

the plea of this churlish, narrow system? The public are ready enough to

pay servants for their attendance, and those persons are quite as

forward to do this who make a pilgrimage to such places on foot as those

who approach them in a post-chaise or on horseback with a livery

servant, which, it seems, is the prescribed and fashionable etiquette!

Whatever is the cause, we are sorry for it; more particularly as it

compels us to speak of these two admired Collections from memory only.

It is several years since we saw them; but there are some impressions of

this sort that are proof against time.

Lord Radnor has the two famous Claudes, the _Morning_ and _Evening of

the Roman Empire_. Though as landscapes they are neither so brilliant,

nor finished, nor varied, as some of this Artist’s, there is a weight

and concentration of historic feeling about them which many of his

allegorical productions want. In the first, half-finished buildings and

massy columns rise amidst the dawning effulgence that is streaked with

rims of inextinguishable light; and a noble tree in the foreground,

ample, luxuriant, hangs and broods over the growing design. There is a

dim mistiness spread over the scene, as in the beginning of things. The

_Evening_, the companion to it, is even finer. It has all the gorgeous

pomp that attends the meeting of Night and Day, and a flood of glory

still prevails over the coming shadows. In the cool of the evening, some

cattle are feeding on the brink of a glassy stream, that reflects a

mouldering ruin on one side of the picture; and so precise is the touch,

so true, so firm is the pencilling, so classical the outline, that they

give one the idea of sculptured cattle, biting the short, green turf,

and seem an enchanted herd! They appear stamped on the canvas to remain

there for ever, or as if nothing could root them from the spot. Truth

with beauty suggests the feeling of immortality. No Dutch picture ever

suggested this feeling. The objects are real, it is true; but not being

beautiful or impressive, the mind feels no wish to mould them into a

permanent reality, to bind them fondly on the heart, or lock them in the

imagination as in a sacred recess, safe from the envious canker of time.

No one ever felt a longing, a sickness of the heart, to see a Dutch

landscape twice; but those of Claude, after an absence of years, have

this effect, and produce a kind of calenture. The reason of the

difference is, that in mere literal copies from nature, where the

objects are not interesting in themselves, the only attraction is to see

the felicity of the execution; and having once witnessed this, we are

satisfied. But there is nothing to stir the fancy, to keep alive the

yearnings of passion. We remember one other picture (and but one) in

Lord Radnor’s Collection, that was of this _ideal_ character. It was a

_Magdalen_ by Guido, with streaming hair, and streaming eyes looking

upwards-full of sentiment and beauty.

There is but one fine picture at Wilton-house, the _Family Vandyke_;

with a noble Gallery of antique marbles, which we may pronounce to be

invaluable to the lover of art or to the student of history or human

nature. Roman Emperors or Proconsuls, the poets, orators, and almost all

the great men of antiquity, are here ‘ranged in a row,’ and palpably

embodied either in genuine or traditional busts. Some of these indicate

an almost preternatural capacity and inspired awfulness of look,

particularly some of the earlier sages and fabulists of Greece, which we

apprehend to be _ideal_ representations; while other more modern and

better authenticated ones of celebrated Romans are distinguished by the

strength and simplicity of common English heads of the best class.—The

large picture of the _Pembroke Family_, by Vandyke, is unrivalled in its

kind. It is a history of the time. It throws us nearly two centuries

back to men and manners that no longer exist. The members of a Noble

House (‘tis a hundred and sixty years since) are brought together _in

propriâ persona_, and appear in all the varieties of age, character, and

costume. There are the old Lord and Lady Pembroke, who ‘keep their

state’ raised somewhat above the other groups;—the one a lively old

gentleman, who seems as if he could once have whispered a flattering

tale in a fair lady’s ear; his help-mate looking a little fat and sulky

by his side, probably calculating the expence of the picture, and not

well understanding the event of it—there are the daughters, pretty,

well-dressed, elegant girls, but somewhat insipid, sentimental, and

vacant—then there are the two eldest sons, that might be said to have

walked out of Mr. Burke’s description of the age of chivalry; the one a

perfect courtier, a carpet-knight, smooth-faced, handsome, almost

effeminate, that seems to have moved all his life to ‘the mood of lutes

and soft recorders,’ decked in silks and embroidery like the tender

flower issuing from its glossy folds; the other the gallant soldier,

shrewd, bold, hardy, with spurred heel and tawny buskins, ready to

‘mount on barbed steeds, and witch the world with noble

horsemanship’—down to the untutored, carroty-headed boy, the

_Goose-Gibbie_ of the piece, who appears to have been just dragged from

the farm-yard to sit for his picture, and stares about him in as great a

heat and fright as if he had dropped from the clouds:—all in this

admirable, living composition is in its place, in keeping, and bears the

stamp of the age and of the master’s hand. Even the oak-pannels have an

elaborate, antiquated look, and the furniture has an aspect of cumbrous,

conscious dignity. It should not be omitted that it was here (in the

house or the adjoining magnificent grounds) that Sir Philip Sidney wrote

his ARCADIA; and the story of Musidorus and Philoclea, of Mopsa and

Dorcas, is quaintly traced on oval pannels in the principal

drawing-room.

It is on this account that we are compelled to find fault with the

Collection at Fonthill Abbey, because it exhibits no picture of

remarkable eminence that can be ranked as an heir-loom of the

imagination—which cannot be spoken of but our thoughts take wing and

stretch themselves towards it—the very name of which is music to the

instructed ear. We would not give a rush to see any Collection that does

not contain some single picture at least, that haunts us with an uneasy

sense of joy for twenty miles of road, that may cheer us at intervals

for twenty years of life to come. Without some such thoughts as these

riveted in the brain, the lover and disciple of art would truly be ‘of

all men the most miserable:’ but with them hovering round him, and ever

and anon shining with their glad lustre into his sleepless soul, he has

nothing to fear from fate, or fortune. We look, and lo! here is one at

our side, facing us, though far-distant. It is the Young Man’s Head, in

the Louvre, by Titian, that is not unlike Jeronymo della Porretta in Sir

Charles Grandison. What a look is there of calm, unalterable

self-possession—

‘Above all pain, all passion, and all pride;’

that draws the evil out of human life, that while we look at it

transfers the same sentiment to our own breasts, and makes us feel as if

nothing mean or little could ever disturb us again! This is high art;

the rest is mechanical. But there is nothing like this at Fonthill (oh!

no), but every thing which is the very reverse. As this, however, is an

extreme opinion of ours, and may be a prejudice, we shall endeavour to

support it by facts. There is not then a single Titian in all this

boasted and expensive Collection—there is not a Raphael—there is not a

Rubens (except one small sketch)—there is not a Guido, nor a

Vandyke—there is not a Rembrandt, there is not a Nicolo Poussin, nor a

fine Claude. The two Altieri Claudes, which might have redeemed

Fonthill, Mr. Beckford sold. What shall we say to a Collection, which

uniformly and deliberately rejects every great work, and every great

name in art, to make room for idle rarities and curiosities of

mechanical skill? It was hardly necessary to build a cathedral to set up

a toy-shop! Who would paint a miniature-picture to hang it at the top of

the Monument? This huge pile (capable of better things) is cut up into a

parcel of little rooms, and those little rooms are stuck full of little

pictures, and _bijouterie_. Mr. Beckford may talk of his _Diamond

Berchem_, and so on: this is but the language of a _petit-maitre_ in

art; but the author of VATHEK (with his leave) is not a _petit-maitre_.

His genius, as a writer, ‘hath a devil:’ his taste in pictures is the

quintessence and rectified spirit of _still-life_. He seems not to be

susceptible of the poetry of painting, or else to set his face against

it. It is obviously a first principle with him to exclude whatever has

feeling or imagination—to polish the surface, and suppress the soul of

art—to proscribe, by a sweeping clause or at one fell swoop, every thing

approaching to grace, or beauty, or grandeur—to crush the sense of

pleasure or of power in embryo—and to reduce all nature and art, as far

as possible, to the texture and level of a China dish—smooth,

glittering, cold, and unfeeling! We do not object so much to the

predilection for Teniers, Wouvermans, or Ostade—we like to see natural

objects naturally painted—but we unequivocally hate the affectedly mean,

the elaborately little, the ostentatiously perverse and distorted,

Polemberg’s walls of amber, Mieris’s groups of steel, Vanderwerf’s ivory

flesh;—yet these are the chief delights of the late proprietor of

Fonthill-abbey! Is it that his mind is ‘a volcano burnt out,’ and that

he likes his senses to repose and be gratified with Persian carpets and

enamelled pictures? Or are there not traces of the same infirmity of

feeling even in the high-souled Vathek, who compliments the complexion

of the two pages of Fakreddin as being equal to ‘the porcelain of

Franguestan?’ Alas! Who would have thought that the Caliph Vathek would

have dwindled down into an Emperor of China and King of Japan? But so it

is.—

Stourhead, the seat of Sir Richard Colt Hoare, did not answer our

expectations. But Stourton, the village where it stands, made up for our

disappointment. After passing the park-gate, which is a beautiful and

venerable relic, you descend into Stourton by a sharp-winding declivity,

almost like going underground, between high hedges of laurel trees, and

with an expanse of woods and water spread beneath. It is a sort of rural

Herculaneum, a subterranean retreat. The inn is like a modernized

guard-house; the village-church stands on a lawn without any inclosure;

a row of cottages facing it, with their white-washed walls and flaunting

honey-suckles, are neatness itself. Every thing has an air of elegance,

and yet tells a tale of other times. It is a place that might be held

sacred to stillness and solitary musing!—The adjoining mansion of

Stourhead commands an extensive view of Salisbury Plain, whose

undulating swells shew the earth in its primeval simplicity, bare, with

naked breasts, and varied in its appearance only by the shadows of the

clouds that pass across it. The view without is pleasing and singular:

there is little within-doors to beguile attention. There is one

master-piece of colouring by Paul Veronese, a naked child with a dog.

The tone of the flesh is perfection itself. On praising this picture

(which we always do when we like a thing) we were told it had been

criticized by a great judge, Mr. Beckford of Fonthill, who had found

fault with the execution as too coarse and muscular. We do not wonder—it

is not like his own turnery-ware! We should also mention an exquisite

Holbein, the _Head of a Child_, and a very pleasing little landscape by

Wilson. Besides these, there are some capital pen-and-ink drawings

(views in Venice), by Canaletti, and three large copies after Guido of

_the Venus attired by the Graces_, _the Andromeda_, and _Herodias’s

Daughter_. They breathe the soul of softness and grace, and remind one

of those fair, sylph-like forms that sometimes descend upon the earth

with fatal, fascinating looks, and that ‘tempt but to betray.’ After the

cabinet-pictures at Fonthill, even a good copy of a Guido is a luxury

and a relief to the mind: it is something to inhale the divine airs that

play around his figures, and we are satisfied if we can but ‘trace his

footsteps, and his skirts far-off behold.’ The rest of this Collection

is, for the most part, _trash_: either Italian pictures painted in the

beginning of the last century, or English ones in the beginning of this.

It gave us pain to see some of the latter; and we willingly draw a veil

over the humiliation of the art, in the age and country that we live in.

We ought, however, to mention a portrait of a youth (the present

proprietor of Stourhead) by Sir Joshua Reynolds, which is elegant,

brilliant, ‘though in ruins;’ and a spirited portrait by Northcote, of a

lady talking on her fingers, may, perhaps, challenge an exception for

itself to the above general censure.

We wish our readers to go to Petworth, the seat of Lord Egremont, where

they will find the coolest grottos and the finest Vandykes in the world.

There are eight or ten of the latter that are not to be surpassed by the

art of man, and that we have no power either to admire or praise as they

deserve. For simplicity, for richness, for truth of nature, for airiness

of execution, nothing ever was or can be finer. We will only mention

those of the Earl and Countess of Northumberland, Lord Newport, and Lord

Goring, Lord Strafford, and Lady Carr, and the Duchess of Devonshire. He

who possesses these portraits is rich indeed, if he has an eye to see,

and a heart to feel them. The one of _Lord Northumberland in the Tower_

is not so good, though it is thought better by the multitude. That is,

there is a subject—something to talk about; but in fact, the expression

is not that of grief, or thought, or of dignified resignation, but of a

man in ill health. Vandyke was a mere portrait-painter, but he was a

perfect one. His _forte_ was not the romantic or pathetic; he was ‘of

the court, courtly.’ He had a patent from the hand of nature to paint

lords and ladies in prosperity and quite at their ease. There are some

portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds in this Collection; and there are

people who persist in naming him and Vandyke in the same day. The rest

of the Collection consists (for the most part) of _staircase_ and family

pictures. But there are some admirable statues to be seen here, that it

would ask a morning’s leisure to study properly.

PICTURES AT BURLEIGH HOUSE[10]

Burleigh! thy groves are leafless, thy walls are naked—

‘And dull, cold winter does inhabit here.’

The yellow evening rays gleam through thy fretted Gothic windows; but I

only feel the rustling of withered branches strike chill to my breast;

it was not so twenty years ago. Thy groves were leafless then as now: it

was the middle of winter twice that I visited thee before; but the lark

mounted in the sky, and the sun smote my youthful blood with its slant

ray, and the ploughman whistled as he drove his team afield; Hope spread

out its glad vistas through thy fair domains, oh, Burleigh! Fancy decked

thy walls with works of sovereign art, and it was spring, not winter, in

my breast. All is still the same, like a petrification of the mind—the

same things in the same places; but their effect is not the same upon

me. I am twenty years the worse for _wear and tear_. What is become of

the never-ending studious thoughts that brought their own reward or

promised good to mankind? of the tears that started welcome and

unbidden? of the sighs that whispered future peace? of the smiles that

shone, not in my face indeed, but that cheered my heart, and made a

sunshine there when all was gloom around? That fairy vision—that

invisible glory, by which I was once attended—ushered into life, has

left my side, and ‘faded to the light of common day,’ and I now see what

is, or has been—not what may lie hid in Time’s bright circle and golden

chaplet! Perhaps this is the characteristic difference between youth and

a later period of life—that we, by degrees, learn to take things more as

we find them, call them more by their right names; that we feel the

warmth of summer, but the winter’s cold as well; that we see beauties,

but can spy defects in the fairest face; and no longer look at every

thing through the genial atmosphere of our own existence. We grow more

literal and less credulous every day, lose much enjoyment, and gain some

useful, and more useless knowledge. The second time I passed along the

road that skirts Burleigh Park, the morning was dank and ‘ways were

mire.’ I saw and felt it not: my mind was otherwise engaged. Ah! thought

I, there is that fine old head by Rembrandt; there within those cold

grey walls, the painter of old age is enshrined, immortalized in some of

his inimitable works! The name of Rembrandt lives in the fame of him who

stamped it with renown, while the name of Burleigh is kept up by the

present owner. An artist survives in the issue of his brain to all

posterity—a lord is nothing without the issue of his body lawfully

begotten, and is lost in a long line of illustrious ancestors. So much

higher is genius than rank—such is the difference between fame and

title! A great name in art lasts for centuries—it requires twenty

generations of a noble house to keep alive the memory of the first

founder for the same length of time. So I reasoned, and was not a little

proud of my discovery.

In this dreaming mood, dreaming of deathless works and deathless names,

I went on to Peterborough, passing, as it were, under an arch-way of

Fame,

——‘and still walking under,

Found some new matter to look up and wonder.’

I had business there: I will not say what. I could at this time do

nothing. I could not write a line—I could not draw a stroke. ‘I was

brutish;’ though not ‘like warlike as the wolf, nor subtle as the fox

for prey.’ In words, in looks, in deeds, I was no better than a

changeling. Why then do I set so much value on my existence formerly? Oh

God! that I could but be for one day, one hour, nay but for an instant,

(to feel it in all the plentitude of unconscious bliss, and take one

long, last, lingering draught of that full brimming cup of thoughtless

freedom,) what then I was—that I might, as in a trance, a waking dream,

hear the hoarse murmur of the bargemen, as the Minster tower appeared in

the dim twilight, come up from the willowy stream, sounding low and

underground like the voice of the bittern—that I might paint that field

opposite the window where I lived, and feel that there was a green, dewy

moisture in the tone, beyond my pencil’s reach, but thus gaining almost

a new sense, and watching the birth of new objects without me—that I

might stroll down Peterborough bank, (a winter’s day,) and see the fresh

marshes stretching out in endless level perspective, (as if Paul Potter

had painted them,) with the cattle, the windmills, and the red-tiled

cottages, gleaming in the sun to the very verge of the horizon, and

watch the fieldfares in innumerable flocks, gamboling in the air, and

sporting in the sun, and racing before the clouds, making summersaults,

and dazzling the eye by throwing themselves into a thousand figures and

movements—that I might go, as then, a pilgrimage to the town where my

mother was born, and visit the poor farm-house where she was brought up,

and lean upon the gate where she told me she used to stand when a child

of ten years old and look at the setting sun!—I could do all this still;

but with different feelings. As our hopes leave us, we lose even our

interest and regrets for the past. I had at this time, simple as I

seemed, many resources. I could in some sort ‘play at bowls with the sun

and moon;’ or, at any rate, there was no question in metaphysics that I

could not bandy to and fro, as one might play at cup-and-ball, for

twenty, thirty, forty miles of the great North Road, and at it again,

the next day, as fresh as ever. I soon get tired of this now, and wonder

how I managed formerly. I knew Tom Jones by heart, and was deep in

Peregrine Pickle. I was intimately acquainted with all the heroes and

heroines of Richardson’s romances, and could turn from one to the other

as I pleased. I could con over that single passage in Pamela about ‘her

lumpish heart,’ and never have done admiring the skill of the author and

the truth of nature. I had my sports and recreations too, some such as

these following:—

‘To see the sun to bed, and to arise,

Like some hot amourist, with glowing eyes

Bursting the lazy bands of sleep that bound him,

With all his fires and travelling glories round him.

Sometimes the moon on soft night clouds to rest,

Like beauty nestling in a young man’s breast,

And all the winking stars, her handmaids, keep

Admiring silence while those lovers sleep.

Sometimes outstretcht, in very idleness,

Nought doing, saying little, thinking less,

To view the leaves, thin dancers upon air,

Go eddying round and small birds how they fare,

When Mother Autumn fills their beaks with corn,

Filch’d from the careless Amalthea’s horn:

And how the woods berries and worms provide

Without their pains, when earth has nought beside

To answer their small wants.

To view the graceful deer come tripping by,

Then stop and gaze, then turn, they know not why,

Like bashful younkers in society.

To mark the structure of a plant or tree,

And all fair things of earth, how fair they be.’

I have wandered far enough from Burleigh House; but I had some

associations about it which I could not well get rid of, without

troubling the reader with them.

The _Rembrandts_ disappointed me quite. I could hardly find a trace of

the impression which had been inlaid in my imagination. I might as well

‘Hunt half a day for a forgotten dream.’

Instead of broken wrinkles and indented flesh, I saw hard lines and

stained canvas. I had seen better Rembrandts since, and had learned to

see nature better. Was it a disadvantage, then, that for twenty years I

had carried this fine idea in my brain, enriching it from time to time

from my observations of nature or art, and raising it as they were

raised; or did it much signify that it was disturbed at last? Neither.

The picture was nothing to me: it was the idea it had suggested. The one

hung on the wall at Burleigh; the other was an heir-loom in my mind. Was

it destroyed, because the picture, after long absence, did not answer to

it? No. There were other pictures in the world that did, and objects in

nature still more perfect. This is the melancholy privilege of art; it

exists chiefly in idea, and is not liable to serious reverses. If we are

disappointed in the character of one we love, it breaks the illusion

altogether; for we drew certain consequences from a face. If an old

friendship is broken up, we cannot tell how to replace it, without the

aid of habit and a length of time. But a picture is nothing but a face;

it interests us only in idea. Hence we need never be afraid of raising

our standard of taste too high; for the mind rises with it, exalted and

refined, and can never be much injured by finding out its casual

mistakes. Like the possessor of a splendid collection, who is

indifferent to or turns away from common pictures, we have a selector

gallery in our own minds. In this sense, the knowledge of art is _its

own exceeding great reward_. But is there not danger that we may become

too fastidious, and have nothing left to admire? None: for the

conceptions of the human soul cannot rise superior to the power of art;

or if they do, then we have surely every reason to be satisfied with

them. The mind, in what depends upon itself alone, ‘soon rises from

defeat unhurt,’ though its pride may be for a moment ‘humbled by such

rebuke,’

‘And in its liquid texture mortal wound

Receives no more than can the fluid air.’

As an illustration of the same thing, there are two Claudes at Burleigh,

which certainly do not come up to the celebrity of the artist’s name.

They did not please me formerly: the sky, the water, the trees seemed

all too blue, too much of the colour of indigo. But I believed, and

wondered. I could no longer admire these specimens of the artist at

present, but assuredly my admiration of the artist himself was not less

than before; for since then, I had seen other works by the same hand,

——‘inimitable on earth

By model or by shading pencil drawn,’—

surpassing every idea that the mind could form of art, except by having

seen them. I remember one in particular that Walsh Porter had (a

bow-shot beyond all others)—a vernal landscape, an ‘Hesperian fable

true,’ with a blue unclouded sky, and green trees and grey turrets and

an unruffled sea beyond. But never was there sky so soft or trees so

clad with spring, such air-drawn towers or such halcyon seas: Zephyr

seemed to fan the air, and Nature looked on and smiled. The name of

Claude has alone something in it that softens and harmonises the mind.

It touches a magic chord. Oh! matchless scenes, oh! orient skies, bright

with purple and gold; ye opening glades and distant sunny vales,

glittering with fleecy flocks, pour all your enchantment into my soul,

let it reflect your chastened image, and forget all meaner things!

Perhaps the most affecting tribute to the memory of this great artist is

the character drawn of him by an eminent master, in his _Dream of a

Painter_.

‘On a sudden I was surrounded by a thick cloud or mist, and my guide

wafted me through the air, till we alighted on a most delicious

rural spot. I perceived it was the early hour of the morn, when the

sun had not risen above the horizon. We were alone, except that at a

little distance a young shepherd played on his flageolet as he

walked before his herd, conducting them from the fold to the

pasture. The elevated pastoral air he played charmed me by its

simplicity, and seemed to animate his obedient flock. The atmosphere

was clear and perfectly calm: and now the rising sun gradually

illumined the fine landscape, and began to discover to our view the

distant country of immense extent. I stood awhile in expectation of

what might next present itself of dazzling splendour, when the only

object which appeared to fill this natural, grand, and simple scene,

was a rustic who entered, not far from the place where we stood, who

by his habiliments seemed nothing better than a peasant; he led a

poor little ass, which was loaded with all the implements required

by a painter in his work. After advancing a few paces he stood

still, and with an air of rapture seemed to contemplate the rising

sun: he next fell on his knees, directed his eyes towards heaven,

crossed himself, and then went on with eager looks, as if to make

choice of the most advantageous spot from which to make his studies

as a painter. “This,” said my conductor, “is that Claude Gelée of

Lorraine, who, nobly disdaining the low employment to which he was

originally bred, left it with all its advantages of competence and

ease to embrace his present state of poverty, in order to adorn the

world with works of most accomplished excellence.”’

There is a little Paul Brill at Burleigh, in the same room with the

Rembrandts, that dazzled me many years ago, and delighted me the other

day. It looked as sparkling as if the sky came through the frame. I

found, or fancied I found, those pictures the best that I remembered

before, though they might in the interval have faded a little to my

eyes, or lost some of their original brightness. I did not see the small

head of Queen Mary by Holbein, which formerly struck me so forcibly; but

I have little doubt respecting it, for Holbein was a sure hand; he only

wanted effect, and this picture looked through you. One of my old

favourites was the _Head of an Angel_, by Guido, nearly a profile,

looking up, and with wings behind the back. It was hung lower than it

used to be, and had, I thought, a look less aërial, less heavenly; but

there was still a pulpy softness in it, a tender grace, an expression

unutterable—which only the pencil, _his_ pencil, could convey! And are

we not then beholden to the art for these glimpses of Paradise? Surely,

there is a sweetness in Guido’s heads, as there is also a music in his

name. If Raphael did more, it was not with the same ease. His heads have

more meaning; but Guido’s have a look of youthful innocence, which his

are without. As to the boasted picture of Christ by Carlo Dolce, if a

well-painted table-cloth and silver-cup are worth three thousand

guineas, the picture is so, but not else. Yet one touch of Paul Veronese

is worth all this enamelling twice over. The head has a wretched mawkish

expression, utterly unbecoming the character it professes to represent.

But I will say no more about it. The _Bath of Seneca_ is one of Luca

Jordano’s best performances, and has considerable interest and effect.

Among other historical designs, there is one of _Jacob’s Dream_, with

the angels ascending and descending on a kind of stairs. The conception

is very answerable to the subject; but the execution is not in any high

degree spirited or graceful. The mind goes away no gainer from the

picture. Rembrandt alone perhaps could add any thing to this subject. Of

him it might be said, that ‘his light shone in darkness!’—The wreaths of

flowers and foliage carved in wood on the wainscots and ceiling of many

of the rooms, by the celebrated Grinling Gibbons in Charles the Second’s

time, shew a wonderful lightness and facility of hand, and give pleasure

to the eye. The other ornaments and curiosities I need not mention, as

they are carefully pointed out by the housekeeper to the admiring

visitor. There are two heads, however, (one of them happens to have a

screen placed before it) which I would by no means wish any one to pass

over, who is an artist, or feels the slightest interest in the art. They

are, I should suppose unquestionably, the original studies by Raphael of

the heads of the _Virgin_ and _Joseph_ in his famous picture of the

_Madonna of the Crown_. The Virgin is particularly beautiful, and in the

finest preservation, as indeed are all his genuine pictures. The canvas

is not quite covered in some places; the colours are as fresh as if

newly laid on, and the execution is as firm and vigorous as if his hand

had just left it. It shews us how this artist wrought. The head is, no

doubt, a highly-finished study from nature, done for a particular

purpose, and worked up according to the painter’s conception, but still

retaining all the force and truth of individuality. He got all he could

from Nature, and gave all he could to her in return. If Raphael had

merely sketched this divine face on the canvas from the idea in his own

mind, why not stamp it on the larger composition at once? He could work

it up and refine upon it there just as well, and it would almost

necessarily undergo some alteration in being transferred thither

afterwards. But if it was done as a careful copy from Nature in the

first instance, the present was the only way in which he could proceed,

or indeed by which he could arrive at such consummate excellence. The

head of the Joseph (leaning on the hand and looking down) is fine, but

neither so fine as the companion to it, nor is it by any means so

elaborately worked up in the sketch before us.

I am no teller of stories; but there is one belonging to Burleigh-House,

of which I happen to know some of the particulars. The late Earl of

Exeter had been divorced from his first wife, a woman of fashion, and of

somewhat more gaiety of manners than ‘lords who love their ladies like.’

He determined to seek out a second wife in an humbler sphere of life,

and that it should be one who, having no knowledge of his rank, should

love him for himself alone. For this purpose, he went and settled

_incognito_ (under the name of Mr. Jones) at Hodnet, an obscure village

in Shropshire. He made overtures to one or two damsels in the

neighbourhood, but they were too knowing to be taken in by him. His

manners were not boorish, his mode of life was retired, it was odd how

he got his livelihood, and at last, he began to be taken for a

highwayman. In this dilemma he turned to Miss Hoggins, the eldest

daughter of a small farmer, at whose house he lodged. Miss Hoggins, it

might seem, had not been used to romp with the clowns: there was

something in the manners of their quiet, but eccentric guest that she

liked. As he found that he had inspired her with that kind of regard

which he wished for, he made honourable proposals to her, and at the end

of some months, they were married, without his letting her know who he

was. They set off in a post-chaise from her father’s house, and

travelled homewards across the country. In this manner they arrived at

Stamford, and passed through the town without stopping, till they came

to the entrance of Burleigh-Park, which is on the outside of it. The

gates flew open, the chaise entered, and drove down the long avenue of

trees that leads up to the front of this fine old mansion. As they drew

nearer to it, and she seemed a little surprised where they were going,

he said, ‘Well, my dear, this is Burleigh-House; it is the home I have

promised to bring you to, and you are the Countess of Exeter!’ It is

said, the shock of this discovery was too much for this young creature,

and that she never recovered it. It was a sensation worth dying for. The

world we live in was worth making, had it been only for this. _Ye

Thousand and One Tales of the Arabian Night’s Entertainment!_ hide your

diminished heads! I never wish to have been a lord, but when I think of

this story.

PICTURES AT OXFORD AND BLENHEIM

Rome has been called the ‘Sacred City:’—might not _our_ Oxford be called

so too? There is an air about it, resonant of joy and hope: it speaks

with a thousand tongues to the heart: it waves its mighty shadow over

the imagination: it stands in lowly sublimity, on the ‘hill of ages;’

and points with prophetic fingers to the sky: it greets the eager gaze

from afar, ‘with glistering spires and pinnacles adorned,’ that shine

with an internal light as with the lustre of setting suns; and a dream

and a glory hover round its head, as the spirits of former times, a

throng of intellectual shapes, are seen retreating or advancing to the

eye of memory: its streets are paved with the names of learning that can

never wear out: its green quadrangles breathe the silence of thought,

conscious of the weight of yearnings innumerable after the past, of

loftiest aspirations for the future: Isis babbles of the Muse, its

waters are from the springs of Helicon, its Christ-Church meadows,

classic, Elysian fields!—We could pass our lives in Oxford without

having or wanting any other idea—that of the place is enough. We imbibe

the air of thought; we stand in the presence of learning. We are

admitted into the Temple of Fame, we feel that we are in the sanctuary,

on holy ground, and ‘hold high converse with the mighty dead.’ The

enlightened and the ignorant are on a level, if they have but faith in

the tutelary genius of the place. We may be wise by proxy, and studious

by prescription. Time has taken upon himself the labour of thinking; and

accumulated libraries leave us leisure to be dull. There is no occasion

to examine the buildings, the churches, the colleges, by the rules of

architecture, to reckon up the streets, to compare it with Cambridge

(Cambridge lies out of the way, on one side of the world)—but woe to him

who does not feel in passing through Oxford that he is in ‘no mean

city,’ that he is surrounded with the monuments and lordly mansions of

the mind of man, outvying in pomp and splendour the courts and palaces

of princes, rising like an exhalation in the night of ignorance, and

triumphing over barbaric foes, saying, ‘All eyes shall see me, and all

knees shall bow to me!’—as the shrine where successive ages came to pay

their pious vows, and slake the sacred thirst of knowledge, where

youthful hopes (an endless flight) soared to truth and good, and where

the retired and lonely student brooded over the historic or over fancy’s

page, imposing high tasks for himself, framing high destinies for the

race of man—the lamp, the mine, the well-head from whence the spark of

learning was kindled, its stream flowed, its treasures were spread out

through the remotest corners of the land and to distant nations. Let him

then who is fond of indulging in a dream-like existence go to Oxford and

stay there; let him study this magnificent spectacle, the same under all

aspects, with its mental twilight tempering the glare of noon, or

mellowing the silver moonlight; let him wander in her sylvan suburbs, or

linger in her cloistered halls; but let him not catch the din of

scholars or teachers, or dine or sup with them, or speak a word to any

of the privileged inhabitants; for if he does, the spell will be broken,

the poetry and the religion gone, and the palace of enchantment will

melt from his embrace into thin air!

The only Collection of Pictures at Oxford is that at the Radcliffe

Library; bequeathed by Sir William Guise. It is so far appropriate that

it is dingy, solemn, old; and we would gladly leave it to its repose;

but where criticism comes, affection ‘clappeth his wings, and

straightway he is gone.’ Most of the pictures are either copies, or

spoiled, or never were good for any thing. There is, however, a _Music

Piece_ by Titian, which bears the stamp of his hand, and is ‘majestic,

though in ruins.’ It represents three young ladies practising at a

harpsichord, with their music-master looking on. One of the girls is

tall, with prominent features seen in profile, but exquisitely fair, and

with a grave expression; the other is a lively, good-humoured girl, in a

front view; and the third leans forward from behind, looking down with a

demure, reserved, sentimental cast of countenance, but very pretty, and

much like an English face. The teacher has a manly, intelligent

countenance, with a certain blended air of courtesy and authority. It is

a fascinating picture, to our thinking; and has that marked

characteristic look, belonging to each individual and to the subject,

which is always to be found in Titian’s groups. We also noticed a dingy,

melancholy-looking Head over the window of the farthest room, said to be

a _Portrait of Vandyke_, with something striking in the tone and

expression; and a small _Adam and Eve driven out of Paradise_,

attributed to Giuseppe Ribera, which has considerable merit. The amateur

will here find continual copies (of an indifferent class) of many of his

old favourite pictures of the Italian school, Titian, Domenichino,

Correggio, and others. But the most valuable part of the Collection

consists of four undoubted Heads cut out of one of the _Cartoons_, which

was destroyed by fire about a hundred years ago: they are here preserved

in their pristine integrity. They shew us what the Cartoons were. They

have all the spirit and freedom of Raphael’s hand, but without any of

the blotches and smearing of those at Hampton Court; with which the damp

of outhouses and the dews of heaven have evidently had nearly as much to

do as the painter. Two are Heads of men, and two of women; one of the

last, _Rachel weeping for her Children_, and another still finer (both

are profiles) in which all the force and boldness of masculine

understanding is combined with feminine softness of expression. The

large, ox-like eye, a ‘lucid mirror,’ with the eye-lids drooping, and

the long eye-lashes distinctly marked, the straight scrutinizing nose,

the full, but closed lips, the matronly chin and high forehead,

altogether convey a character of matured thought and expansive feeling,

such as is seldom to be met with. _Rachel weeping for her Children_ has

a sterner and more painful, but a very powerful expression. It is

heroic, rather than pathetic. The Heads of the men are spirited and

forcible, but they are distinguished chiefly by the firmness of the

outline, and the sharpness and mastery of the execution.

* * * * *

Blenheim is a morning’s walk from Oxford, and is not an unworthy

appendage to it—

‘And fast by hanging in a golden chain

This pendent world, in bigness as a star

Of smallest magnitude, close by the moon!’

Blenheim is not inferior in waving woods and sloping lawns and smooth

waters to Pembroke’s princely domain, or to the grounds of any other

park we know of. The building itself is Gothic, capricious, and not

imposing—a conglomeration of pigeon-houses—

‘In form resembling a goose pie.’

But as a receptacle for works of art, (with the exception of Cleveland

House,) it is unrivalled in this country. There is not a bad picture in

it: the interest is sustained by rich and noble performances from first

to last. It abounds in Rubens’ works. The old Duchess of Marlborough was

fond of the historical pieces of this great painter; she had, during her

husband’s wars and negociations in Flanders, a fine opportunity of

culling them, ‘as one picks pears, saying, this I like, that I like

still better:’ and from the selection she has made, it appears as if she

understood the master’s genius well. She has chosen those of his works

which were most mellow, and at the same time gorgeous in colouring, most

luxuriant in composition, most unctuous in expression. Rubens was the

only artist that could have embodied some of our countryman Spenser’s

splendid and voluptuous allegories. If a painter among ourselves were to

attempt a SPENSER GALLERY, (perhaps the finest subject for the pencil in

the world after Heathen mythology and Scripture History,) he ought to go

and study the principles of his design at Blenheim!—The _Silenus_ and

the _Rape of Proserpine_ contain more of the Bacchanalian and lawless

spirit of ancient fable than perhaps any two pictures extant. We shall

not dispute that Nicolas Poussin could probably give more of the

abstract, metaphysical character of his traditional personages, or that

Titian could set them off better, so as to ‘leave stings’ in the eye of

the spectator, by a prodigious _gusto_ of colouring, as in his _Bacchus

and Ariadne_: but neither of them gave the same undulating outline, the

same humid, _pulpy_ tone to the flesh, the same graceful involution to

the grouping and the forms, the same animal spirits, the same breathing

motion. Let any one look at the figure of the _Silenus_ in the

first-mentioned of these compositions, its unwieldy size, its reeling,

drunken attitude, its capacity for revelling in gross, sensual

enjoyment, and contrast it with the figure of the nymph, so light, so

wanton, so fair, that her clear crystal skin and laughing grace spread a

ruddy glow, and account for the giddy tumult all around her; and say if

any thing finer in this kind was ever executed or imagined. In that sort

of licentious fancy, in which a certain grossness of expression bordered

on caricature, and where grotesque or enticing form was to be combined

with free and rapid movements, or different tones and colours were to be

flung over the picture as in sport or in a dance, no one ever surpassed

the Flemish painter; and some of the greatest triumphs of his pencil are

to be found in the Blenheim Gallery. There are several others of his

best pictures on sacred subjects, such as the _Flight into Egypt_, and

the illustration of the text, ‘Suffer little children to come unto me.’

The head and figure and deportment of the Christ, in this last admirable

production, are nobly characteristic (beyond what the painter usually

accomplished in this department)—the face of a woman holding a young

child, pale, pensive, with scarce any shadow, and the head of the child

itself (looking as vacant and satisfied as if the nipple had just

dropped from its mouth) are actually alive. Those who can look at this

picture with indifference, or without astonishment at the truth of

nature, and the felicity of execution, may rest assured that they know

as little of Rubens as of the Art itself. Vandyke, the scholar and rival

of Rubens, holds the next place in this Collection. There is here, as in

so many other places, a picture of the famous Lord Strafford, with his

Secretary—both speaking heads, and with the characters finely

diversified. We were struck also by the delightful family picture of the

Duchess of Buckingham and her Children, but not so much (we confess it)

as we expected from our recollection of this picture a few years ago. It

had less the effect of a perfect mirror of fashion in ‘the olden time,’

than we fancied to ourselves—the little girl had less exquisite primness

and studied gentility, the little boy had not the same chubby,

good-humoured look, and the colours in his cheek had faded—nor had the

mother the same graceful, matron-like air. Is it we or the picture that

has changed? In general our expectations tally pretty well with our

after-observations, but there was a falling-off in the present instance.

There is a fine whole-length of a lady of quality of that day (we think

Lady Cleveland); but the master-piece of Vandyke’s pencil here is his

_Charles I. on Horseback_. It is the famous cream or fawn-coloured

horse, which, of all the creatures that ever were painted, is surely one

of the most beautiful.

‘Sure never were seen

Two such beautiful ponies;

All others are brutes,

But these macaronies.’

Its steps are delicate, as if it moved to some soft measure or courtly

strain, or disdained the very ground it trod upon; its form all

lightness and elegance: the expression quick and fiery; the colour

inimitable; the texture of the skin sensitive and tremblingly alive all

over, as if it would shrink from the smallest touch. The portrait of

Charles is not equal; but there is a landscape-background, which in

breezy freshness seems almost to rival the airy spirit and delicacy of

the noble animal. There are also one or two fine Rembrandts

(particularly a _Jacob and Esau_)—an early Raphael, the _Adoration_ of

some saint, hard and stiff, but carefully designed; and a fine,

sensible, graceful head of the _Fornarina_, of which we have a common

and well-executed engraving.

‘But did you see the Titian room?’—Yes, we did, and a glorious treat it

was; nor do we know why it should not be shewn to every one. There is

nothing alarming but the title of the subjects—_The Loves of the

Gods_—just as was the case with Mr. T. Moore’s _Loves of the Angels_—but

oh! how differently treated! What a gusto in the first, compared with

the insipidity of the last! What streaks of living blood-colour, so

unlike gauze spangles or pink silk-stockings! What union, what symmetry

of form, instead of sprawling, flimsy descriptions—what an expression of

amorous enjoyment about the mouth, the eyes, and even to the

finger-ends, instead of cold conceits, and moonlight similes! This is

_en passant_; so to our task.—It is said these pictures were discovered

in an old lumber-room by Sir Joshua Reynolds, who set a high value on

them, and that they are undoubtedly by Titian, having been originally

sent over as a present by the King of Sardinia (for whose ancestor they

were painted) to the first Duke of Marlborough. We should (without,

however, pretending to set up an opinion) incline, from the internal

evidence, to think them from the pencil of the great Venetian, but for

two circumstances: the first is the texture of the skin; and secondly,

they do not compose well as pictures. They have no back-ground to set

them off, but a most ridiculous trellis-work, representing nothing, hung

round them; and the flesh looks monotonous and hard, like the rind of

fruit. On the other hand, this last objection seems to be answered

satisfactorily enough, and without impugning the skill of the artist;

for the pictures are actually painted on skins of leather. In all other

respects, they might assuredly be by Titian, and we know of no other

painter who was capable of achieving their various excellences. The

drawing of the female figures is correct and elegant in a high degree,

and might be supposed to be borrowed from classic sculpture, but that it

is more soft, more feminine, more lovely. The colouring, with the

exception already stated, is true, spirited, golden, harmonious. The

grouping and attitudes are heroic, the expression in some of the faces

divine. We do not mean, of course, that it possesses the elevation or

purity that Raphael or Correggio could give, but it is warmer, more

thrilling and ecstatic. There is the glow and ripeness of a more genial

clime, the purple light of love, crimsoned blushes, looks bathed in

rapture, kisses with immortal sweetness in their taste—Nay, then, let

the reader go and see the pictures, and no longer lay the blame of this

extravagance on us. We may at any rate repeat the subjects. They are

eight in number. 1. _Mars and Venus._ The Venus is well worthy to be

called the Queen of Love, for shape, for air, for every thing. Her

redoubted lover is a middle-aged, ill-looking gentleman, clad in a

buff-jerkin, and somewhat of a formalist in his approaches and mode of

address; but there is a Cupid playing on the floor, who might well turn

the world upside down. 2. _Cupid and Psyche._ The Cupid is perhaps

rather a gawky, awkward stripling, with eager, open-mouthed wonder: but

did ever creature of mortal mould see any thing comparable to the back

and limbs of the Psyche, or conceive or read any thing equal to it, but

that unique description in the Troilus and Cressida of Chaucer? 3.

_Apollo and Daphne._ Not equal to the rest. 4. _Hercules and Dejanira._

The female figure in this picture is full of grace and animation, and

the arms that are twined round the great son of Jove are elastic as a

bended bow. 5. _Vulcan and Ceres._ 6. _Pluto and Proserpine._ 7.

_Jupiter and Io._ Very fine. And finest of all, and last, _Neptune and

Amphitrite_. In this last work it seems ‘as if increase of appetite did

grow with what it fed on.’ What a face is that of Amphitrite for beauty

and for sweetness of expression! One thing is remarkable in these groups

(with the exception of two) which is that the lovers are all of them old

men; but then they retain their beards (according to the custom of the

good old times!) and this makes not only a picturesque contrast, but

gives a beautiful softness and youthful delicacy to the female faces

opposed to them. Upon the whole, this series of historic compositions

well deserves the attention of the artist and the connoisseur, and

perhaps some light might be thrown upon the subject of their

authenticity by turning over some old portfolios. We have heard a hint

thrown out that the designs are of a date prior to Titian. But ‘we are

ignorance itself in this!’

APPENDIX

CRITICISM ON HOGARTH’S MARRIAGE A-LA-MODE

_The Criticism on Hogarth’s ‘Marriage a-la-Mode,’ referred to in the

account of Mr. Angerstein’s pictures (page 15), is as follows_:—

The superiority of the pictures of Hogarth, which we have seen in the

late collection at the British Institution, to the common prints, is

confined chiefly to the _Marriage a-la-Mode_. We shall attempt to

illustrate a few of their most striking excellences, more particularly

with reference to the expression of character. Their merits are indeed

so prominent, and have been so often discussed, that it may be thought

difficult to point out any new beauties; but they contain so much truth

of nature, they present the objects to the eye under so many aspects and

bearings, admit of so many constructions, and are so pregnant with

meaning, that the subject is in a manner inexhaustible.

Boccaccio, the most refined and sentimental of all the novel-writers,

has been stigmatized as a mere inventor of licentious tales, because

readers in general have only seized on those things in his works which

were suited to their own taste, and have reflected their own grossness

back upon the writer. So it has happened that the majority of critics

having been most struck with the strong and decided expression in

Hogarth, the extreme delicacy and subtle gradations of character in his

pictures have almost entirely escaped them. In the first picture of the

_Marriage a-la-Mode_, the three figures of the young Nobleman, his

intended Bride, and her innamorato the Lawyer, shew how much Hogarth

excelled in the power of giving soft and effeminate expression. They

have, however, been less noticed than the other figures, which tell a

plainer story, and convey a more palpable moral. Nothing can be more

finely managed than the differences of character in these delicate

personages. The Beau sits smiling at the looking-glass, with a reflected

simper of self-admiration, and a languishing inclination of the head,

while the rest of his body is perked up on his high heels, with a

certain air of tiptoe elevation. He is the Narcissus of the reign of

George II., whose powdered peruke, ruffles, gold lace, and patches,

divide his self-love equally with his own person, the true Sir Plume of

his day,—

——‘Of amber snuff-box justly vain,

And the nice conduct of a clouded cane.’

There is the same felicity in the figure and attitude of the Bride,

courted by the Lawyer. There is the utmost flexibility, and yielding

softness in her whole person, a listless languor and tremulous suspense

in the expression of her face. It is the precise look and air which Pope

has given to his favourite Belinda, just at the moment of the Rape of

the Lock. The heightened glow, the forward intelligence, and loosened

soul of love in the same face, in the Assignation-scene before the

masquerade, form a fine and instructive contrast to the delicacy,

timidity, and coy reluctance expressed in the first. The Lawyer, in both

pictures, is much the same—perhaps too much so—though even this unmoved,

unaltered appearance may be designed as characteristic. In both cases,

he has ‘a person and a smooth dispose, framed to make women false.’ He

is full of that easy good-humour, and easy good opinion of himself, with

which the sex are delighted. There is not a sharp angle in his face to

obstruct his success, or give a hint of doubt or difficulty. His whole

aspect is round and rosy, lively and unmeaning, happy without the least

expense of thought, careless, and inviting; and conveys a perfect idea

of the uninterrupted glide and pleasing murmur of the soft periods that

flow from his tongue.

The expression of the Bride in the Morning-scene is the most highly

seasoned, and at the same time the most vulgar in the series. The

figure, face, and attitude of the Husband are inimitable. Hogarth has

with great skill contrasted the pale countenance of the Husband with the

yellow whitish colour of the marble chimney-piece behind him, in such a

manner as to preserve the fleshy tone of the former. The airy splendour

of the view of the inner room in this picture, is probably not exceeded

by any of the productions of the Flemish school.

The Young Girl, in the third picture, who is represented as a victim of

fashionable profligacy, is unquestionably one of the artist’s

_chef-d’œuvres_. The exquisite delicacy of the painting is only

surpassed by the felicity and subtlety of the conception. Nothing can be

more striking than the contrast between the extreme softness of her

person and the hardened indifference of her character. The vacant

stillness, the docility to vice, the premature suppression of youthful

sensibility, the doll-like mechanism of the whole figure, which seems to

have no other feeling but a sickly sense of pain,—shew the deepest

insight into human nature, and into the effects of those refinements in

depravity, by which it has been good-naturedly asserted, that ‘vice

loses half its evil in losing all its grossness.’ The story of this

picture is in some parts very obscure and enigmatical. It is certain

that the Nobleman is not looking straight forward to the Quack, whom he

seems to have been threatening with his cane; but that his eyes are

turned up with an ironical leer of triumph to the Procuress. The

commanding attitude and size of this woman,—the swelling circumference

of her dress, spread out like a turkey-cock’s feathers,—the fierce,

ungovernable, inveterate malignity of her countenance, which hardly

needs the comment of the clasp-knife to explain her purpose, are all

admirable in themselves, and still more so, as they are opposed to the

mute insensibility, the elegant negligence of dress, and the childish

figure of the girl, who is supposed to be her _protegée_. As for the

Quack, there can be no doubt entertained about him. His face seems as if

it were composed of salve, and his features exhibit all the chaos and

confusion of the most gross, ignorant, and impudent empiricism.

The gradations of ridiculous affectation in the Music-scene, are finely

imagined and preserved. The preposterous, overstrained admiration of the

Lady of Quality; the sentimental, insipid, patient, delight of the Man

with his hair in papers, and sipping his tea; the pert, smirking,

conceited, half-distorted approbation of the figure next to him; the

transition to the total insensibility of the round face in profile, and

then to the wonder of the Negro-boy at the rapture of his mistress,—form

a perfect whole. The sanguine complexion and flame-coloured hair of the

female Virtuoso throw an additional light on the character. This is lost

in the print. The continuing the red colour of the hair into the back of

the chair, has been pointed out as one of those instances of

alliteration in colouring, of which these pictures are everywhere full.

The gross, bloated appearance of the Italian Singer is well relieved by

the hard features of the instrumental Performer behind him, which might

be carved of wood. The Negro-boy, holding the chocolate, in expression,

colour, and execution, is a master-piece. The gay, lively derision of

the other Negro-boy, playing with the Actæon, is an ingenious contrast

to the profound amazement of the first. Some account has already been

given of the two lovers in this picture. It is curious to observe the

infinite activity of mind which the artist displays on every occasion.

An instance occurs in the present picture. He has so contrived the

papers in the hair of the Bride, as to make them look almost like a

wreathe of half-blown flowers; while those which he has placed on the

head of the musical Amateur very much resemble a _cheveux-de-fris_ of

horns, which adorn and fortify the lacklustre expression and mild

resignation of the face beneath.

The Night-scene is inferior to the rest of the series. The attitude of

the Husband, who is just killed, is one in which it would be impossible

for him to stand, or even to fall. It resembles the loose pasteboard

figures they make for children. The characters in the last picture, in

which the Wife dies, are all masterly. We would particularly refer to

the captious, petulant self-sufficiency of the Apothecary, whose face

and figure are constructed on exact physiognomical principles, and to

the fine example of passive obedience and non-resistance in the Servant,

whom he is taking to task, and whose coat of green and yellow livery is

as long and melancholy as his face. The disconsolate look, the haggard

eyes, the open mouth, the comb sticking in the hair, the broken, gapped

teeth, which, as it were, hitch in an answer—every thing about him

denotes the utmost perplexity and dismay. The harmony and gradations of

colour in this picture are uniformly preserved with the greatest nicety,

and are well worthy the attention of the artist.

It has been observed, that Hogarth’s pictures are exceedingly unlike any

other representations of the same kind of subjects—that they form a

class, and have a character, peculiar to themselves. It may be worth

while to consider in what this general distinction consists.

In the first place they are, in the strictest sense, historical

pictures; and if what Fielding says be true, that his novel of Tom Jones

ought to be regarded as an epic prose-poem, because it contained a

regular developement of fable, manners, character, and passion, the

compositions of Hogarth will, in like manner be found to have a higher

claim to the title of Epic Pictures, than many which have of late

arrogated that denomination to themselves. When we say that Hogarth

treated his subjects historically, we mean that his works represent the

manners and humours of mankind in action, and their characters by

varying expression. Every thing in his pictures has life and motion in

it. Not only does the business of the scene never stand still, but every

feature and muscle is put into full play; the exact feeling of the

moment is brought out, and carried to its utmost height, and then

instantly seized and stamped on the canvas forever. The expression is

always taken _en passant_, in a state of progress or change, and, as it

were, at the salient point. Besides the excellence of each individual

face, the reflection of the expression from face to face, the contrast

and struggle of particular motives and feelings in the different actors

in the scene, as of anger, contempt, laughter, compassion, are conveyed

in the happiest and most lively manner. His figures are not like the

background on which they are painted: even the pictures on the wall have

a peculiar look of their own.—Again, with the rapidity, variety, and

scope of history, Hogarth’s heads have all the reality and correctness

of portraits. He gives the extremes of character and expression, but he

gives them with perfect truth and accuracy. This is in fact what

distinguishes his compositions from all others of the same kind, that

they are equally remote from caricature and from mere still-life. It of

course happens in subjects from common life, that the painter can

procure real models, and he can get them to sit as long as he pleases.

Hence, in general, those attitudes and expressions have been chosen

which could be assumed the longest; and in imitating which, the artist,

by taking pains and time, might produce almost as complete a fac-simile

as he could of a flower or a flower-pot, of a damask curtain, or a china

vase. The copy was as perfect and as uninteresting in the one case as in

the other. On the contrary, subjects of drollery and ridicule affording

frequent examples of strange deformity and peculiarity of features,

these have been eagerly seized by another class of artists, who, without

subjecting themselves to the laborious drudgery of the Dutch school and

their imitators, have produced our popular caricatures, by rudely

copying or exaggerating the casual irregularities of the human

countenance. Hogarth has equally avoided the faults of both these

styles—the insipid tameness of the one, and the gross vulgarity of the

other—so as to give to the productions of his pencil equal solidity and

effect: for his faces go to the very verge of caricature, and yet never

(we believe in any single instance) go beyond it; they take the very

widest latitude, and yet we always see the links which bind them to

nature: they bear all the marks, and carry all the conviction of reality

with them, as if we had seen the actual faces for the first time, from

the precision, consistency, and good sense, with which the whole and

every part is made out. They exhibit the most uncommon features with the

most uncommon expressions, but which are yet as familiar and

intelligible as possible; because, with all the boldness, they have all

the truth of nature. Hogarth has left behind him as many of these

memorable faces, in their memorable moments, as, perhaps, most of us

remember in the course of our lives; and has thus doubled the quantity

of our observation.

We have, in the present paper, attempted to point out the fund of

observation, physical and moral, contained in one set of these pictures,

the _Marriage a-la-Mode_. The rest would furnish as many topics to

descant upon, were the patience of the reader as inexhaustible as the

painter’s invention. But as this is not the case, we shall content

ourselves with barely referring to some of those figures in the other

pictures, which appear the most striking; and which we see, not only

while we are looking at them, but which we have before us at all other

times.—For instance: who, having seen, can easily forget that exquisite

frost-piece of religion and morality, the antiquated prude, in the

picture of _Morning_? or that striking commentary on the _good old

times_, the little wretched appendage of a foot-boy, who crawls, half

famished and half frozen, behind her? The French man and woman, in the

_Noon_, are the perfection of flighty affectation and studied grimace;

the amiable _fraternization_ of the two old women saluting each other,

is not enough to be admired; and in the little master, in the same

national group, we see the early promise and personification of that

eternal principle of wondrous self-complacency, proof against all

circumstances, which makes the French the only people who are vain, even

of being cuckolded and being conquered! Or shall we prefer to this, the

outrageous distress and unmitigated terrors of the boy who has dropped

his dish of meat, and who seems red all over with shame and vexation,

and bursting with the noise he makes? Or what can be better than the

good housewifery of the girl underneath, who is devouring the lucky

fragments? Or than the plump, ripe, florid, luscious look of the

servant-wench, embraced by a greasy rascal of an Othello, with her

pye-dish tottering like her virtue, and with the most precious part of

its contents running over? Just—no, not quite—as good, is the joke of

the woman over head, who, having quarrelled with her husband, is

throwing their Sunday’s dinner out of the window, to complete this

chapter of accidents of baked dishes. The husband, in the _Evening_

scene, is certainly as meek as any recorded in history; but we cannot

say that we admire this picture, or the _Night_ scene after it. But then

in the _Taste in High Life_, there is that inimitable pair, differing

only in sex, congratulating and delighting one another by ‘all the

mutually reflected charities’ of folly and affectation; with the young

lady, coloured like a rose, dandling her little, black, pug-faced,

white-teethed, chuckling favourite; and with the portrait of Mons. Des

Noyers, in the background, dancing in a grand ballet, surrounded by

butterflies. And again, in _The Election Dinner_, is the immortal

cobbler, surrounded by his peers, who ‘frequent and full,’—

‘In _loud_ recess and _brawling_ conclave sit:’—

the Jew, in the second picture, a very Jew in grain—innumerable fine

sketches of heads in the _Polling for Votes_, of which the nobleman,

overlooking the caricaturist, is the best;—and then the irresistible,

tumultuous display of broad humour in the _Chairing the Member_, which

is, perhaps, of all Hogarth’s pictures, the most full of laughable

incidents and situations. The yellow, rusty-faced thresher, with his

swinging flail, breaking the head of one of the chairmen; and his

redoubted antagonist, the sailor, with his oak stick, and stumping

wooden leg, a supplemental cudgel—the persevering ecstasy of the

hobbling blind fiddler, who, in the fray, appears to have been trod upon

by the artificial excrescence of the honest tar—Monsieur, the Monkey,

with piteous aspect, speculating the impending disaster of the

triumphant candidate; and his brother Bruin, appropriating the

paunch—the precipitous flight of the pigs, souse over head into the

water—the fine lady fainting, with vermilion lips—and the two chimney

sweepers, satirical young rogues! We had almost forgot the politician,

who is burning a hole through his hat with a candle, in reading a

newspaper; and the chickens, in _The March to Finchley_, wandering in

search of their lost dam, who is found in the pocket of the serjeant. Of

the pictures in _The Rake’s Progress_ we shall not here say any thing,

because we think them, on the whole, inferior to the prints; and because

they have already been criticised by a writer, to whom we could add

nothing, in a paper which ought to be read by every lover of Hogarth and

of English genius.[11]

-----

Footnote 1:

We like this picture of a Concert the best of the three by Titian in

the same room. The other two are a Ganymede, and a Venus and Adonis;

the last does not appear to us from the hand of Titian.

Footnote 2:

The Reader, if he pleases, may turn to an Essay on this subject in the

_Round Table_.

Footnote 3:

Two thirds of the principal pictures in the Orleans Collection are at

present at Cleveland-House, one third purchased by the Marquis of

Stafford, and another third left by the Duke of Bridgewater, another

of the purchasers Mr. Brian had the remaining third.

Footnote 4:

‘Aut Erasmus aut Diabolus.’ Sir Thomas More’s exclamation on meeting

with the philosopher of Rotterdam.

Footnote 5:

The late Mr. Curran described John Kemble’s eye in these words.

Footnote 6:

It is said in the catalogue to be painted on touch-stone.

Footnote 7:

Written in February, 1823.

Footnote 8:

We heard it well said the other day, that ‘Rubens’s pictures were the

palette of Titian.’

Footnote 9:

This is not absolutely true. Mr. Banks the younger, and another young

gentleman, formed an exception to this rule, and contrived to get into

the Abbey-grounds, in spite of warning, just as the recluse proprietor

happened to be passing by the spot. Instead, however, of manifesting

any displeasure, he gave them a most polite reception, shewed them

whatever they expressed a wish to see, asked them to dinner, and after

passing the day in the greatest conviviality, dismissed them by

saying, ‘That they might get out as they got in.’ This was certainly a

good jest. Our youthful adventurers on forbidden ground, in the midst

of their festive security, might have expected some such shrewd turn

from the antithetical genius of the author of Vathek, who makes his

hero, in a paroxysm of impatience, call out for ‘the Koran and

_sugar_!’

Footnote 10:

From the New Monthly Magazine.

Footnote 11:

See an Essay on the Genius of Hogarth, by C. Lamb.

NOTES OF A JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE

_Notes of a Journey through France and Italy, By W. Hazlitt_, was

published in 1826, in an 8vo. volume (9 × 5¼ inches). Printed for Hunt

and Clarke, Tavistock-Street, Covent-Garden. The printer’s name is given

behind the title-page as ‘William Clowes, Northumberland-court,’ and the

following lines from _Cymbeline_ (Act III. 4.) appear underneath the

author’s name on the title-page:—

‘I’ the world’s volume

Our Britain seems as of it, but not in it;

In a great pool, a swan’s nest. Prithee think

There’s livers out of Britain.’

As stated in the ADVERTISEMENT, the _Notes_ were reprinted from the

_Morning Chronicle_, to which they had been contributed in 1824 and

1825. They are now reprinted for the first time since the publication of

the volume of 1826, and as they appeared in that volume. A few passages

which appeared in the papers as they came out in the _Morning

Chronicle_, and were omitted when Hazlitt collected the letters in

book-form, will be found among the notes at the end of the volume.

ADVERTISEMENT

The following _Notes of a Journey through France and Italy_ are

reprinted from the columns of the _Morning Chronicle_. The favourable

reception they met with there suggested the idea of the present work. My

object has been to describe what I saw or remarked myself; or to give

the reader some notion of what he might expect to find in travelling the

same road. There is little of history or antiquities or statistics; nor

do I regret the want of them, as it may be abundantly supplied from

other sources. The only thing I could have wished to expatiate upon more

at large is the _manners_ of the country: but to do justice to this, a

greater length of time and a more intimate acquaintance with society and

the language would be necessary. Perhaps, at some future opportunity,

this defect may be remedied.

CONTENTS

PAGE

CHAPTER I.—Rules for travelling abroad. Brighton. Crossing the 89

Channel. Dieppe. Remarks on the French common People

CHAPTER II.—Normandy. Appearance of the Country. Rouen. The 94

Cathedral there. The sense of Smell

CHAPTER III.—The Road from Rouen to Paris. A Mistake. Evreux. A 100

young Frenchman. A _trait_ of national Politeness. Louviers. The

Diligence, and the Company in it. Lord Byron and Mr. Moore

CHAPTER IV.—The Louvre 106

CHAPTER V.—Gravity of the French. Their Behaviour at the Theatre. 113

Account of going to a Play. Minute attention paid to the Arts

and Sciences in France. Sir T. Lawrence. Horace Vernet

CHAPTER VI.—Dialogue on the Exhibition of Modern French Pictures 122

CHAPTER VII.—The Luxembourg Gallery 129

CHAPTER VIII.—National Antipathies. Cemetery of _Père la Chaise_ 138

CHAPTER IX.—Mademoiselle Mars. The _Théatre Français_. Molière’s 147

_Misanthrope_ and _Tartuffe_. Admirable manner of casting a Play

in Paris. French Actors, Le Peintre, Odry, and Potier. Talma and

Mademoiselle Georges

CHAPTER X.—Description of Paris. The Garden of the Tuileries. The 155

_Champ de Mars_. The _Jardin des Plantes_. Reflections

CHAPTER XI.—French Sculpture. Note on the Elgin Marbles 162

CHAPTER XII.—The French Opera. Dido and Æneas. Madame Le Gallois 169

in the Ballet. Italian Opera or _Salle Louvois_. Mombelli and

Pellegrini in the _Gazza Ladra_. Allusion to Brunet

CHAPTER XIII.—Leave Paris for Lyons. Adventures on the Road. 175

Fontainbleau. Montargis. Girl at the Inn there. A French

Diligence. Moulins. Palisseau. The Bourbonnois. Descent into

Tarare. Meeting with a young Englishman there. Arrival at Lyons.

Manners of French Servants. French Translation of Tom Jones. M.

Martine’s _Death of Socrates_

CHAPTER XIV.—Set out for Turin by Way of Mont Cenis. The Cheats of 183

Scapin. The Diligence. Pont Beau Voisin, the frontier Town of

the King of Sardinia’s Dominions. Have to pass the Custom House.

My Box of Books _leaded_. A Note which is little to the Purpose.

First View of the Alps. The Grand Chartreuse. Cavern of La

Grotte. Chambery. St. Michelle. Lans-le-Bourg. Our Spanish

fellow-traveller. Passage of Mount Cenis. Arrival at Susa

CHAPTER XV.—Turin. Its magnificent Situation. The Effect of first 195

feeling one’s-self in Italy. Theatre. Capital Pantomime-acting.

Passports. Get seats in a Voiture to Florence, with two English

Ladies. Mode of travelling. Italian Peasants. Parma. Windows

lined with Faces. Maria-Louisa. Character of Correggio. Frescoes

by the same in the Cupola of St. Paul’s. The Farnese Theatre.

Bologna. Academy of Painting. Towns in Italy

CHAPTER XVI.—Road to Florence. The Apennines. Covigliaijo. La 207

Maschere. Approach to and Description of Florence. Carnival.

Lent. The Popish Calendar. Fesole. Cold in Italy

CHAPTER XVII.—The public Gallery. Antique Busts. The Venus. 219

Raphael’s Fornarina. The Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini. John of

Bologna’s Rape of the Sabines. The Palace Pitti

CHAPTER XVIII.—Sienna. Radicofani. Aquapendente. Description of 227

the Inn there. San Lorenzo. Monte-Fiascone. Lake of Bolsena.

Desolate Appearance of the Country near Rome. First View of St.

Peter’s from Baccano

CHAPTER XIX.—Rome. The Vatican. The Capella Sistina. Holy Week. 232

The Coliseum. The Temple of Vesta. Picture Galleries—the

Ruspigliosi, Doria, Borghese, Corsini, and Little Farnese. Guido

CHAPTER XX.—Character of the English 241

CHAPTER XXI.—Return to Florence. Italian Banditti. Terni. Tivoli. 253

Spoleto. Church and Pictures at Assizi. Perugia. An Irish

Priest. Cortona. Arrezo. Incisa

CHAPTER XXII.—Journey to Venice. Plain of Lombardy. A country Inn. 263

Ferrara. Rovigo. Padua. Description of Venice

CHAPTER XXIII.—Palaces at Venice—the Grimani, Barberigo, and 268

Manfrini Collections. Paul Veronese. Titian’s St. Peter Martyr.

The Assumption and Martyrdom of St. Lawrence. St. Mark’s Place

CHAPTER XXIV.—Journey to Milan. Verona. The Tomb of Juliet. The 275

Amphitheatre. The Fortress of Peschiera. Lake of Garda. Milan.

The Inhabitants. The Duomo. Theatre of the Gran Scala. Isola

Bella. Lago Maggiore. Baveno

CHAPTER XXV.—The passage over the Simplon. Inn at Brigg. Valley of 281

the Simplon. Sion. Bex. Vevey

CHAPTER XXVI.—Excursion to Chamouni. Mont-Blanc. Geneva. Lausanne 288

CHAPTER XXVII.—Return down the Rhine through Holland. Concluding 295

remarks

NOTES OF A JOURNEY

THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY

CHAPTER I

The rule for travelling abroad is to take our common sense with us, and

leave our prejudices behind us. The object of travelling is to see and

learn; but such is our impatience of ignorance, or the jealousy of our

self-love, that we generally set up a certain preconception beforehand

(in self-defence, or as a barrier against the lessons of experience,)

and are surprised at or quarrel with all that does not conform to it.

Let us think what we please of what we really find, but prejudge

nothing. The English, in particular, carry out their own defects as a

standard for general imitation; and think the virtues of others (that

are not _their_ vices) good for nothing. Thus they find fault with the

gaiety of the French as impertinence, with their politeness as grimace.

This repulsive system of carping and contradiction can extract neither

use nor meaning from any thing, and only tends to make those who give

way to it uncomfortable and ridiculous. On the contrary, we should be as

seldom shocked or annoyed as possible, (it is our vanity or ignorance

that is mortified much oftener than our reason!) and contrive to see the

favourable side of things. This will turn both to profit and pleasure.

The intellectual, like the physical, is best kept up by an exchange of

commodities, instead of an ill-natured and idle search after grievances.

The first thing an Englishman does on going abroad is to find fault with

what is French, because it is not English. If he is determined to

confine all excellence to his own country, he had better stay at home.

On arriving at Brighton (in the full season,) a lad offered to conduct

us to an inn. ‘Did he think there was room?’ He was sure of it. ‘Did he

belong to the inn?’ No, he was from London. In fact, he was a young

gentleman from town, who had been stopping some time at the White-Horse

Hotel, and who wished to employ his spare time (when he was not riding

out on a blood-horse) in serving the house, and relieving the

perplexities of his fellow-travellers. No one but a Londoner would

volunteer his assistance in this way. Amiable land of _Cockayne_, happy

in itself, and in making others happy! Blest exuberance of

self-satisfaction, that overflows upon others! Delightful impertinence,

that is forward to oblige them!

There is something in being near the sea, like the confines of eternity.

It is a new element, a pure abstraction. The mind loves to hover on that

which is endless, and forever the same. People wonder at a steam-boat,

the invention of man, managed by man, that makes its liquid path like an

iron railway through the sea—I wonder at the sea itself, that vast

Leviathan, rolled round the earth, smiling in its sleep, waked into

fury, fathomless, boundless, a huge world of water-drops—Whence is it,

whither goes it, is it of eternity or of nothing? Strange, ponderous

riddle, that we can neither penetrate nor grasp in our comprehension,

ebbing and flowing like human life, and swallowing it up in thy

remorseless womb,—what art thou? What is there in common between thy

life and ours, who gaze at thee? Blind, deaf and old, thou seest not,

hearest not, understandest not; neither do we understand, who behold and

listen to thee! Great as thou art, unconscious of thy greatness,

unwieldy, enormous, preposterous twin-birth of matter, rest in thy dark,

unfathomed cave of mystery, mocking human pride and weakness. Still is

it given to the mind of man to wonder at thee, to confess its ignorance,

and to stand in awe of thy stupendous might and majesty, and of its own

being, that can question thine! But a truce with reflections.

The Pavilion at Brighton is like a collection of stone pumpkins and

pepper-boxes. It seems as if the genius of architecture had at once the

dropsy and the _megrims_. Any thing more fantastical, with a greater

dearth of invention, was never seen. The King’s stud (if they were

horses of taste) would petition against so irrational a lodging.

Brighton stands facing the sea, on the bare cliffs, with glazed windows

to reflect the glaring sun, and black pitchy bricks shining like the

scales of fishes. The town is however gay with the influx of London

visitors—happy as the conscious abode of its sovereign! Every thing here

appears in motion—coming or going. People at a watering-place may be

compared to the flies of a summer; or to fashionable dresses, or suits

of clothes walking about the streets. The only idea you gain is, of

finery and motion. The road between London and Brighton presents some

very charming scenery; Reigate is a prettier English country-town than

is to be found anywhere—out of England! As we entered Brighton in the

evening, a Frenchman was playing and singing to a guitar. It was a

relief to the conversation in the coach, which had been chiefly

supported in a nasal tone by a disciple of Mrs. Fry and amanuensis of

philanthropy in general. As we heard the lively musician warble, we

forgot the land of Sunday-schools and spinning-jennies. The genius of

the South had come out to meet us.

We left Brighton in the steam-packet, and soon saw the shores of Albion

recede from us. _Out of sight, out of mind._ How poor a geographer is

the human mind! How small a space does the imagination take in at once!

In travelling, our ideas change like the scenes of a pantomime,

displacing each other as completely and rapidly. Long before we touched

on French ground, the English coast was lost in distance, and nothing

remained of it but a dim mist; it hardly seemed ‘in a great pool a

swan’s nest.’ So shall its glory vanish like a vapour, its liberty like

a dream!

We had a fine passage in the steam-boat (Sept. 1, 1824). Not a cloud,

scarce a breath of air; a moon, and then star-light, till the dawn, with

rosy fingers, ushered us into Dieppe. Our fellow-passengers were

pleasant and unobtrusive, an English party of the better sort: a Member

of Parliament, delighted to escape from ‘late hours and bad company;’ an

English General, proud of his bad French; a Captain in the Navy, glad to

enter a French harbour peaceably; a Country Squire, extending his

inquiries beyond his paternal acres; the younger sons of wealthy

citizens, refined through the strainers of a University-education and

finishing off with foreign travel; a young Lawyer, quoting Peregrine

Pickle, and divided between his last circuit and projected tour. There

was also a young Dutchman, looking mild through his mustachios, and a

new-married couple (a French Jew and Jewess) who grew uxorious from the

effects of sea-sickness, and took refuge from the qualms of the disorder

in paroxysms of tenderness. We had some difficulty in getting into the

harbour, and had to wait till morning for the tide. I grew very tired,

and laid the blame on the time lost in getting some restive horses on

board, but found that if we had set out two hours sooner, we should only

have had to wait two hours longer. The doctrine of _Optimism_ is a very

good and often a very true one in travelling. In advancing up the steps

to give the officers our passport, I was prevented by a young man and

woman, who said they were before me, and on making a second attempt, an

elderly gentleman and lady set up the same claim, because they stood

_behind_ me. It seemed that a servant was waiting with passports for

four. Persons in a certain class of life are so full of their own

business and importance, that they imagine every one else must be aware

of it—I hope this is the last specimen I shall for some time meet with

of city-manners. After a formal custom-house search, we procured

admittance at Pratt’s Hotel, where they said they had reserved a bed for

a Lady. France is a country where they give _honneur aux Dames_. The

window looked out on the bridge and on the river, which reflected the

shipping and the houses; and we should have thought ourselves luckily

off, but that the bed, which occupied a niche in the sitting-room, had

that kind of odour which could not be mistaken for otto of roses.

DIEPPE.—This town presents a very agreeable and romantic appearance to

strangers. It is cut up into a number of distinct divisions by canals,

drawbridges, and bastions, as if to intercept the progress of an enemy.

The best houses, too, are shut up in close courts and high walls on the

same principle, that is, to stand a further siege in the good old times.

There are rows of lime-trees on the quay, and some of the narrow streets

running from it look like wells. This town is a picture to look at; it

is a pity that it is not a nosegay, and that the passenger who ventures

to explore its nooks and alleys is driven back again by ‘a compound of

villainous smells,’ which seem to grow out of the ground. In walking the

streets, one must take one’s nose with one, and that sense is apt to be

offended in France as well as in Scotland. Is it hence called in French

the _organ of sense_? The houses and the dresses are equally

old-fashioned. In France one lives in the imagination of the past; in

England every thing is new and on an improved plan. Such is the progress

of mechanical invention! In Dieppe there is one huge, misshapen, but

venerable-looking Gothic Church (a theological fixture,) instead of

twenty new-fangled erections, Egyptian, Greek or Coptic. The

head-dresses of the women are much the same as those which the

_Spectator_ laughed out of countenance a hundred years ago in England,

with high plaited crowns, and lappets hanging down over the shoulders.

The shape and colours of the bodice and petticoat are what we see in

Dutch pictures; the faces of the common people we are familiarized with

in Mieris and Jan Steen. They are full and fair like the Germans, and

have not the _minced_ and peaked character we attribute to the French.

They are not handsome, but good-natured, expressive, placid. They retain

the look of peasants more than the town’s-people with us, whether from

living more in the open air, or from greater health and temperance, I

cannot say. What I like in their expression (so far) is not the

vivacity, but the goodness, the simplicity, the thoughtful resignation.

The French are full of gesticulation when they speak; they have at other

times an equal appearance of repose and content. You see the figure of a

girl sitting in the sun, so still that her dress seems like streaks of

red and black chalk against the wall; a soldier reading; a group of old

women (with skins as tough, yellow, and wrinkled as those of a tortoise)

chatting in a corner and laughing till their sides are ready to split;

or a string of children tugging a fishing-boat out of the harbour as

evening goes down, and making the air ring with their songs and shouts

of merriment (a sight to make Mr. Malthus shudder!). Life here glows, or

spins carelessly round on its soft axle. The same animal spirits that

supply a fund of cheerful thoughts, break out into all the extravagance

of mirth and social glee. The air is a cordial to them, and they drink

drams of sunshine. My particular liking to the French is, however,

confined to their natural and unsophisticated character. The good

spirits ‘with which they are clothed and fed,’ and which eke out the

deficiencies of fortune or good government, are perhaps too much for

them, when joined with external advantages, or artificial pretensions.

Their vivacity becomes insolence in office; their success, presumption;

their gentility, affectation and grimace. But the national physiognomy

(taken at large) is the reflection of good temper and humanity. One

thing is evident, and decisive in their favour—they do not insult or

point at strangers, but smile on them good-humouredly, and answer them

civilly.

‘Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease,

Pleas’d with thyself, whom all the world can please!’

Nothing shews the contented soul within, so much as our not seeking for

amusement in the mortifications of others: we only envy their

advantages, or sneer at their defects, when we are conscious of wanting

something ourselves. The customs and employments of the people here have

a more primitive and picturesque appearance than in England. Is it that

with us every thing is made domestic and commodious, instead of being

practised in the open air, and subject to the casualties of the

elements? For instance, you see the women washing clothes in the river,

with their red petticoats and bare feet, instead of standing over a

washing-tub. Human life with us is framed and set in comforts: but it

wants the vivid colouring, the glowing expression that we meet

elsewhere. After all, is not the romantic effect produced partly owing

to the novelty of the scene; or do we not attribute to a superiority in

others what is merely a greater liveliness of impression in ourselves,

arising from curiosity and contrast? If this were all, foreigners ought

to be as much delighted with us, but they are not. A man and woman came

and sung ‘God save the King,’ before the windows of the Hotel, as if the

French had so much loyalty at present that they can spare us some of it.

What an opinion must they have formed of the absurd nationality of the

English, to suppose that we can expect them to feel this sort of

mock-sentiment towards our King! What English ballad-singer would dream

of flattering the French visitors by a song in praise of Louis _le

Desiré_ before a Brighton or a Dover Hotel?

As the door opened just now, I saw the lad or _garçon_, who waits on us,

going up stairs with a looking-glass, and admiring himself in it. If he

is pleased with himself, he is no less satisfied with us, and with every

thing else.

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