CHAPTER XIII. KILLARNEY.

[Illustration: 166]

There are words which, although unnoticed in the delightful treatises of

the Dean of Westminster 1 (may his fame increase!) have a strange

power upon the heart,--words which can ring for us, listening by the

brookside, and in arbours and meadow-haunts once more, the joy-bells

of a former mirth, or toll above past sorrows and buried hopes their

muffled and mournful peal. Breathes there, for instance, a man with

soul so dead, who can hear of a _primrose bank, or a cowslip-ball, or a

roly-poly pudding, or a sillabub, or a soap bubble, or a pantomime,

or of Robinson Crusoe_, and not feel himself, though it be but for a

moment, a happy child again? And do we not realise, on the other hand,

in all their brief intensity, our earliest sorrows, when memory suggests

to us those solemn sounds of woe, _measles, big-brother, ghosts,

dentists, castor-oil?_

1 Dr. Trench, afterwards Archbishop of Dublin.

And who (to pass on to boyhood) can ever hear of _foot-ball_, especially

if Tom Brown speak, without longing for a kick to goal? Who can be

reminded of _the river_, and not remember those summer days, when, nude

and jubilant, we took first a preliminary canter among the haycocks, and

then “a header” into the deep, cold stream? or, again, those merry days

of winter, when, from our slippery skates we took--well, anything but “a

_header_” upon its glibly frozen surface? On the other hand, who does not

felicitate himself that he has arrived at man's estate, when he recalls

those awful _impositions_ which he still believes have softened his

brain, or when his memory (not to particularise) is tingling at the idea

of _birch_, and contemplating a “_Visitation of Arms and Seats_” long

anterior to Mr. Bernard Burke's?

Chiefly, perhaps, when we come to shave, or, more wisely, to cherish

instead of destroying (with many a grimace and groan), those healthful

adjuncts to manly beauty, “_quas Natura sud sponte suggerit_” is felt

this great influence of words. I have seen the cheek of a pallid

friend suddenly to assume the hues of a peony, the rich crimson tint of

dining-room curtains, at mention of the name of “_Rose_;” and I remember

how a Brasenose man, whose fresh ruddy countenance was much more

suggestive of Burton-upon-Trent than it was of Burton upon Melancholy,

and whom we called Chief Mourner, because he was always first after the

bier, would become colourless, and “pale his ineffectual fire,” at the

very sound of _Blanche_. Nor do I see any discredit in confessing my

own inability to hear certain sweet Christian-Names (sixteen in all, but

nine in particular), without emotions of a troublous, but delightful,

character.

And as at this era, just as in the two preceding it, there are special

words which bring joy and animation to man (let me briefly instance

_gone-away, mark-woodcock, sillery, deux-temps)_, so there are terms

of terror (e.g. _jilt, tailor, Little-Go, lurit-server, poacher,

vulpicide_), of potent and cruel import.

I might amplify for my readers this etymological treat. I might

expatiate on the different effects produced by. the same word upon

different minds, _videlicet_, by the word _Tally-ho_, as heard at the

covert-side by sportsman or by muff, by the man who rides with hounds,

or the skirting path-finder who rides without them; but I have already

travelled by a too circuitous route to my conclusion,--that it is sweet

to hear the mere names of those things, which are pleasant and lovable

in themselves, and that to those who have seen the Irish lakes, the word

_Killarney_ is “a joy for ever.”

Coming so immediately from the wild grandeur of Connamara to these

scenes of tranquil beauty, I think that our first view of the Lakes, as

we left the Victoria Hotel, was rather a disappointment. The landscape

(or waterscape?) was so calm and still, that it had somewhat of a

dioramic effect, and one almost expected to see it move slowly onwards

to an accompaniment of organ music. But as the olive lends a zest to

generous wine, even so this tiny discontentment served but to enhance

our subsequent and full fruition. For, once upon the waters, you become

forthwith convinced, not only how impossible it is to exaggerate the

beauties of _Killarney_ (as well might a painter essay to flatter or

improve a sunset), but for pen or pencil to do them justice.

There is such infinite variety, from the white and golden lilies,

(which, close to land, look like miniature canoes, from which fairy

watermen have just sprung lightly ashore), to the towering heights

and aeries; such diversity of tint and outline in the mountains,

tree-clothed from crown to base; in those “islets so freshly fair;” and

in those dancing waters, which raise their smiling waves to kiss the

flowers and ferns; such contrasts, and yet such a perfect whole, of wood

and water, “harmoniously confused;” such transformations, wrought by

cloud and breeze, yet always such complete repose; that the eye can

never weary.

We hired a boat, and set forth for _Innisfallen_, just at that

delightful time between sunset and moonrise,

“When in the crimson cloud of even

The lingering light decays,

And Hesper, on the front of Heaven,

His glittering gem displays.”

Presently, the moon came up above those lofty hills, 1 and as bugle

music from the returning boats was wafted over the shining waters, and

lost itself among the mountains, we turned to each other, Frank and I,

at the same moment, with those thrilling lines,

“O hark! O hear! how thin and clear;

And thinner, clearer, farther going.

O, sweet and far, from cliff and scar,

The horns of Elf-land faintly blowing.

Blow! let us hear the purple glens replying.

Blow, bugle; answer echoes, dying, dying, dying!”

1 In a _Trip to Ireland_, by a Cambridge M. A. (1858), there

is written, gravely written, at page 18, the following most

original simile: “Just over yon steep acclivity hangs a

crescent moon, like a silver knocker on the star-studded

gate of heaven, and one can almost fancy some angel-warder

will, ere long, break the silence with the gracious

invitation, 'Come up hither.'”

Indeed, you would suppose that Tennyson must have written this

heart-stirring song at _Killarney_, did not the engraving prefixed to

it, represent so different and dismally inferior a scene. To look and

listen, as we rowed slowly onwards, seemed to be more happiness than

we, undeserving, could at once enjoy; and it required a contemplation of

meaner things, to convince us that the whole scene was not, in the words

of Ireland's poet, writing at _Killarney_, and of it,--

“One of those dreams, that by music are brought,

Like a light summer-haze, o'er the poet's warm thought.”

So we lit our pipes, and then the boatmen, whose colloquial powers

we generally evoked, as we tendered the calumet, or rather the

tobacco-pouch, of friendship, began to tell us, how, once upon a time,

it was all dry land about here; how some indiscreet, but anonymous

individual had removed the lid from an enchanted well; and how the

enchanted well had set to work, in consequence, and had flooded the

valley in which stood the palace of King O'Donoghue, so suddenly, that a

facetious sentinel had only just time to shout “All's Well!” at the top

of his voice, when the waters, rising above his chin, and entering his

vocal orifice, put a stop to further elocution.

It does not appear, as ordinary minds might have expected, that the

prospects or spirits of _the Donoghue_ were at all damped by this

proceeding; and though his property seemed to be hopelessly “dipped,”

and his capital to be sunk beyond all recovery, he contrived not only

to get his head above water, but even to ride the high horse afterwards.

For the boatmen say, that the royal edifice still remains, with all its

inmates, unaltered and unalterable, at the bottom of the lake, and there

the king entertains his court, with fish-dinners and aquatic fêtes on

an unprecedented scale of magnificence, save when requiring air and

exercise, he rides over the waters on a snowy steed, and turns the whole

locality into an Irish “Vale of White Horse.”

“And there's plinty as has seen him, your 'onnour,” (so said the bow-oar

historian), “and will take their swear of it--glowry to God!” Very

little glowry, thought I, from the perjury of these delectable

witnesses, who must have seen this quaint display of horsemanship

through a “summer haze” of whiskey, and been very deliriously drunk. But

our boat touches _Innisfallen_.

Everyone falls in love with this sweet little island. It has such grand,

old, giant trees, such charming glades and undulations, “green and of

mild declivity,” that here, childhood might play, manhood make love, and

old age meditate, unwearied, from morn to night. Mr. Grieve would, in

spite of his name, be joyful, to wander through its vistas and alleys

green, and find fresh scenes for his canvas. What dear little glens,

what “banks and braes” for the fairies. Can this be Titania coming

towards us over the moonlit sward, and leaning upon the arm of Oberon?

No; it is a couple of nuptial neophytes, looking so happy, that, as they

pass, I could take off my hat and cheer. Ah, if fair _lnnisfallen_ is so

beautiful to us poor bachelors by ordinary moonlight, what must it be to

Benedict, to the man in the moon of honey? What must be the happiness

of my Lord Castlerosse, the eldest son of the Lord of the Isles of

Killarney, who has just brought home his bride? 1

1 August, 1858.

Were I ever constrained to be a monk and celibate, I should wish my

monastery to be at _lnnisfallen_, and I admire the taste of St. Finian

(an ancestor, I presume, of Mr. Finn, our estimable host at the Victoria

Hotel), who, some thirteen hundred years ago, selected this island for

his retreat. The picturesque ruins of an ancient abbey still attest,

that long after his time, men sought, in this sylvan solitude, that

peace which they found not in the world.

Sweet _Innisfallen!_ “thy praise is hymned by loftier harps than mine,”

so lofty indeed, that my obtuse understanding is unable to read some of

their music, as, for instance, where Moore sings,

“The steadiest light the sun e'er threw

Is lifeless to one gleam of thine.”

And, therefore, in plain prose, but with a full heart, Good night!

A Little Tour in Ireland · 第 13 / 15 章