[Transcriber's note]
Page numbers in this book are indicated by numbers enclosed in curly
braces, e.g. {99}. They have been located where page breaks occurred
in the original book.
Section titles which appear with the odd page numbers in the
original text have been placed before the referenced paragraph in
square brackets.
[End transcriber's notes]
TRAVELS IN CENTRAL ASIA
LONDON
PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO.
NEW-STREET SQUARE
[Illustration]
DERVISHES AT BOKHARA.
TRAVELS IN CENTRAL ASIA
BEING THE ACCOUNT OF
A JOURNEY FROM TEHERAN ACROSS THE TURKOMAN DESERT ON THE EASTERN SHORE
OF THE CASPIAN TO KHIVA, BOKHARA, AND SAMARCAND
Performed In The Year 1863
BY ARMINIUS VÁMBÉRY
MEMBER OF THE HUNGARIAN ACADEMY OF PESTH,
BY WHOM HE WAS SENT ON THIS SCIENTIFIC MISSION
LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
1864
TO
MAJOR-GENERAL
SIR HENRY RAWLINSON, K.C.B.
THE INVESTIGATOR OF THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE EAST, AND YIELDING TO
NONE IN HIS KNOWLEDGE OF THE PRESENT CONDITION OF CENTRAL ASIA,
_In Token Of Admiration And Gratitude_
THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE DEDICATED
A. VÁMBÉRY.
PREFACE.
I was born in Hungary in 1832, in the small town of Duna Szerdahely,
situated on one of the largest islands in the Danube. Impelled by a
particular inclination to linguistic science, I had in early youth
occupied myself with several languages of Europe and Asia. The various
stores of Oriental and Western literature were in the first instance
the object of my eager study. At a later period I began to interest
myself in the reciprocal relations of the languages themselves; and
here it is not surprising if I, in applying the proverb 'nosce
teipsum,' directed my principal attention to the affinities and to the
origin of my own mother-tongue.
That the Hungarian language belongs to the stock called Altaic is well
known, but whether it is to be referred to the Finnish or the Tartaric
branch is a question that still awaits decision. This enquiry,
interesting [Footnote 1] to us Hungarians both in a scientific and
{viii} a national point of view, was the principal and the moving
cause of my journey to the East. I was desirous of ascertaining, by
the practical study of the living languages, the positive degree of
affinity which had at once struck me as existing between the Hungarian
and the Turco-Tartaric dialects when contemplating them by the feeble
light which theory supplied. I went first to Constantinople. Several
years' residence in Turkish houses, and frequent visits to Islamite
schools and libraries, soon transformed me into a Turk--nay, into an
Efendi. The progress of my linguistic researches impelled me further
towards the remote East; and when I proposed to carry out my views by
actually undertaking a journey to Central Asia, I found it advisable
to retain this character of Efendi, and to visit the East as an
Oriental.
[Footnote 1: The opinion consequently that we Hungarians go to Asia
to seek there those of our race who were left behind, is erroneous.
Such an object, the carrying out of which, both from ethnographical
as well as philological reasons, would be an impossibility, would
render a man amenable to the charge of gross ignorance. We are
desirous of knowing the etymological construction of our language,
and therefore seek exact information from cognate idioms.]
The foregoing observations will explain the object which I proposed to
myself in my wanderings from the Bosphorus to Samarcand. Geological or
astronomical researches were out of my province, and had even become
an impossibility from my assumption of the character of a Dervish. My
attention was for the most part directed to the races inhabiting
Central Asia, of whose social and political relations, character,
usages, and customs I have striven, however imperfectly, to give a
sketch in the following {ix} pages. Although, as far as circumstances
and my previous avocations permitted, I allowed nothing that concerned
geography and statistics to escape me, still I must regard the results
of my philological researches as the principal fruits of my journey.
These I am desirous, after maturer preparation, to lay before the
scientific world. These researches, and not the facts recorded in the
present pages, must ever be regarded by me as the real reward of a
journey in which I wandered about for months and months with only a
few rags as my covering, without necessary food, and in constant peril
of perishing by a death of cruelty, if not of torture. I may be
reproached with too much limiting my views, but where a certain object
is proposed we should not lose sight of the principle, 'non omnia
possumus omnes.'
A stranger on the field to which the publication of this narrative has
introduced me, I feel my task doubly difficult in a land like England,
where literature is so rich in books of travels. My design was to
record plainly and simply what I heard and saw, whilst the impression
still remained fresh on my mind. I doubt much whether I have
succeeded, and beg the kind indulgence of the public. Readers and
critics may find many errors, and the light that I may throw upon
particular points may be accounted too small a compensation for the
hardships I actually encountered; but I entreat them not to forget
that I return from a country where to hear is regarded as impudence,
to ask as crime, and to take notes as a deadly sin.
{x}
So much for the grounds and purposes of my journey. With respect to
the arrangement of these pages, in order that there may be no
interruption, I have divided the book into two parts; the first
containing the description of my journey from Teheran to Samarcand and
back, the second devoted to notices concerning the geography,
statistics, politics, and social relations of Central Asia. I hope
that both will prove of equal interest to the reader; for whilst on
the one hand I pursued routes hitherto untrodden by any European, my
notices relate to subjects hitherto scarcely, if at all, touched on by
writers upon Central Asia. And now let me perform the more pleasing
task of expressing my warm acknowledgments to all those whose kind
reception of me when I arrived in London has been a great furtherance
and encouragement to the publication of the following narrative.
Before all let me mention the names of SIR JUSTIN and LADY SHEIL. In
their house I found English open-heartedness associated with Oriental
hospitality; their kindness will never be forgotten by me. Nor are my
obligations less to the Nestor of geological science, the President of
the Royal Geographical Society, SIR RODERICK MURCHISON; to that great
Oriental scholar, VISCOUNT STRANGFORD; and to MR. LAYARD, M.P.,
Under-Secretary of State. In Central Asia I bestowed blessing for
kindness received; here I have but words, they are sincere and come
from the heart.
A. VÁMBÉRY.
London: September 28, 1864.
{xi}
CONTENTS.
PART I.
CHAPTER I.--Page 1
Travelling in Persia
Sleep on Horseback
Teheran
Reception at the Turkish Embassy
Turkey and Persia
Ferrukh Khan's Visit to Europe
War between Dost Mohammed Khan and Sultan Ahmed Khan
Excursion to Shiraz
CHAPTER II. Page 9
Return to Teheran
Relief of Sunnites, Dervishes, and Hadjis at the Turkish Embassy
Author becomes acquainted with a Karavan of Tartar
Hadjis returning from Mecca
The different Routes
The Author determines to join the Hadjis
Hadji Bilal
Introduction of Author to his future Travelling Companions
Route through the Yomuts and the Great Desert decided upon
CHAPTER III.--Page 20
Departure from Teheran in North-easterly Direction
The Component Members of Karavan described
Ill-feeling of Shiites towards the Sunnite Hadjis
Mazendran
Zirab
Heften
Tigers and Jackals
Sari
Karatepe
{xii}
CHAPTER IV.--Page 30
Karatepe
Author entertained by an Afghan, Nur-Ullah
Suspicions as to his Dervish Character
Hadjis provision themselves for Journey through Desert
Afghan Colony
Nadir Shah
First View of the Caspian
Yacoub the Turkoman Boatman
Love Talisman
Embarkation for Ashourada
Voyage on the Caspian
Russian Part of Ashourada
Russian War Steamers in the Caspian
Turkoman Chief, in the Service of Russia
Apprehension of Discovery on the Author's part
Arrival at Gömüshtepe and at the Mouth of the Gorghen.
CHAPTER V.--Page 45
Arrival at Gömüshtepe, hospitable Reception of the Hadjis
Khandjan
Ancient Greek Wall
Influence of the Ulemas
First Brick Mosque of the Nomads
Tartar Raids
Persian Slaves
Excursion to the North-east of Gömüshtepe
Tartar Fiancée and Banquet, etc.
Preparation of the Khan of Khiva's Kervanbashi
for the Journey through the Desert
Line of Camels
Ilias Beg, the Hirer of Camels
Arrangements with Khulkhan
Turkoman Expedition to steal Horses in Persia
Its Return.
CHAPTER VI.--Page 70
Departure from Gömüshtepe
Character of our late Host
Turkoman Mounds or Tombs
Disagreeable Adventure with Wild Boars
Plateau to the North of Gömüshtepe
Nomad Habits
Turkoman Hospitality
The last Goat
Persian Slave
Commencement of the Desert
A Turkoman Wife and Slave
Etrek
Persian Slaves
Russian Sailor Slave
Proposed Alliance between Yomuts and Tekke
Rendezvous with the Kervanbashi
Tribe Kem
Adieu to Etrek
Afghan makes Mischief
Description of Karavan.
{xiii}
CHAPTER VII.--Page 90
Kervanbashi insists that Author should take no Notes
Eid Mehemmed and his Brother's noble Conduct
Guide loses his Way
Körentaghi, Ancient Ruins, probably Greek
Little and Great Balkan
Ancient Bed of the Oxus
Vendetta
Sufferings from Thirst.
CHAPTER VIII.--Page 113
Thunder
Gazelles and Wild Asses
Arrival at the Plateau Kaftankir
Ancient Bed of Oxus
Friendly Encampment
Approach of Horsemen
Gazavat
Entry into Khiva
Malicious Charge by Afghan
Interview with Khan
Author required to give Specimen of Turkish Penmanship
Robes of Honour estimated by Human Heads
Horrible Execution of Prisoners
Peculiar Execution of Women
Kungrat
Author's last Benediction of the Khan.
CHAPTER IX.--Page 144
FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA.
Departure from Khiva for Bokhara
Ferry across the Oxus
Great Heat
Shurakhan
Market
Singular Dialogue with Kirghis Woman on Nomadic Life
Tünüklü
Alaman of the Tekke
Karavan alarmed returns to Tünüklü
Forced to throw itself into the Desert, 'Destroyer of Life'
Thirst
Death of Camels
Death of a Hadji
Stormy Wind
Precarious State of Author
Hospitable Reception amongst Persian Slaves
First Impression of Bokhara the Noble.
CHAPTER X.--Page 167
Bokhara
Reception at the Tekkie, the Chief Nest of Islamism
Rahmet Bi
Bazaars
Baha-ed-din, Great Saint of Turkestan
Spies set upon Author
Fate of recent Travellers in Bokhara
Book Bazaar
The Worm (Rishte)
Water Supply
Late and present Emirs
Harem, Government, Family of Reigning Emir
Slave Depot and Trade
Departure from Bokhara, and Visit to the Tomb of Baha-ed-din.
{xiv}
CHAPTER XI.--Page 197
Bokhara to Samarcand
Little Desert of Chöl Melik
Animation of Road owing to War
First View of Samarcand
Haszreti Shah Zinde
Mosque of Timour
Citadel (Ark)
Reception Hall of Timour
Köktash or Timour's Throne
Singular Footstool
Timour's Sepulchre and that of his Preceptor
Author visits the actual Tomb of Timour in the Souterrain
Folio Koran ascribed to Osman, Mohammed's Secretary
Colleges
Ancient Observatory
Greek Armenian Library not, as pretended, carried off by Timour
Architecture of Public Buildings not Chinese but Persian
Modern Samarcand
Its Population
Dehbid
Author decides to return
Arrival of Emir
Author's Interview with him
Parting from the Hadjis, and Departure from Samarcand.
CHAPTER XII.--Page 222
Samarcand to Karshi through Desert
Nomads
Karshi, the Ancient Nakhseb
Trade and Manufacture
Kerki
Oxus
Author charged with being runaway Slave
Ersari Turkomans
Mezari Sherif
Belkh
Author joins Karavan from Bokhara
Slavery
Zeid
Andkhuy
Yeketut
Khairabad
Maymene
Akkale.
CHAPTER XIII.--Page 244
Maymene
Its Political Position and Importance
Reigning Prince
Rivalry of Bokhara and Kabul
Dost Mohammed Khan
Ishan Eyub and Mollah Khalmurad
Khanat and Fortress of Maymene
Escaped Russian Offenders
Murgab River and Bala Murgab
Djemshidi and Afghan
Ruinous Taxes on Merchandise
Kalè No
Hezare
Afghan Exactions and Maladministration.
{xv}
CHAPTER XIV.--Page 269
HERAT.
Herat
Its Ruinous State
Bazaar
Author's Destitute Condition
The Serdar Mehemmed Yakoub Khan
Parade of Afghan Troops
Interview with Serdar
Conduct of Afghans on storming Herat
Nazir Naim the Vizir
Embarrassed State of Revenue
Major Todd
Mosalla, and Tomb of Sultan Husein Mirza
Tomb of Khodja Abdullah Ansari, and of Dost Mohammed Khan.
CHAPTER XV.--Page 286
FROM HERAT TO LONDON.
Author joins Karavan for Meshed
Kuhsun, last Afghan Town
False Alarm from Wild Asses
Debatable Ground between Afghan and Persian Territory
Bifurcation of Route
Yusuf Khan Hezareh
Ferimon
Colonel Dolmage
Prince Sultan Murad Mirza
Author avows who he is to the Serdar of Herat
Shahrud
Teheran, and Welcome there
by the Turkish Charge d' Affaires, Ismael Efendi
Kind Reception by Mr. Alison and the English Embassy
Interview with the Shah
The Kavvan ud Dowlet and the Defeat at Merv
Return by Trebisond and Constantinople to Pesth
Author leaves the Khiva Mollah behind him at Pesth
and proceeds to London
His Welcome in the last-named City.
PART II.
CHAPTER XVI.--Page 301
THE TURKOMANS.
Boundaries and Division of Tribes
Neither Rulers nor Subjects
Deb
Islam
Change introduced by latter only external
Influence of Mollahs
Construction of Nomad Tents
Alaman, how conducted
Persian Cowardice
Turkoman Poets
Troubadours
Simple Marriage Ceremonies
Horses
Mounds, how and when formed
Mourning for Dead
Turkoman Descent
General Points connected with the History of the Turkomans
Their present Political and Geographical Importance.
{xvi}
CHAPTER XVII.--Page 329
THE CITY OF KHIVA.
Khiva, the Capital
Principal Divisions, Gates, and Quarters of the City
Bazaars
Mosques
Medresse or Colleges; how founded, organised, and endowed
Police
Khan and his Government
Taxes
Tribunals
Khanat
Canals
Political Divisions
Produce
Manufactures and Trade
Particular Routes
Khanat, how peopled
Ozbegs
Turkomans
Karakalpak
Kasak (Kirghis)
Sart
Persians
History of Khiva in Fifteenth Century
Khans and their Genealogy.
CHAPTER XVIII.--Page 362
THE CITY OF BOKHARA.
City of Bokhara, its Gates, Quarters, Mosques, Colleges
One founded by Czarina Catherine
Founded as Seminaries not of Learning but Fanaticism
Bazaars
Police System severer than elsewhere in Asia
The Khanat of Bokhara
Inhabitants: Ozbegs, Tadjiks, Kirghis, Arabs,
Mervi, Persians, Hindoos, Jews
Government
Different Officials
Political Divisions
Army
Summary of the History of Bokhara.
CHAPTER XIX.--Page 380
KHANAT OF KHOKAND.
Inhabitants
Division
Khokand Tashkend
Khodjend
Morgolan Endidjan
Hazreti Turkestana
Oosh
Political Position
Recent Wars.
CHAPTER XX.--Page 397
CHINESE TARTARY.
Approach from West
Administration
Inhabitants--Cities.
CHAPTER XXI.--Page 407
Communication of Central Asia with Russia, Persia, and India
Routes in the three Khanats and Chinese Tartary.
{xvii}
CHAPTER XXII.--Page 419
GENERAL VIEW OF AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, AND TRADE.
Agriculture
Different kinds of Horses
Sheep
Camels
Asses
Manufactures, Principal Seats of Trade
Commercial Ascendancy of Russia in Central Asia.
CHAPTER XXIII.--Page 430
INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL POLITICAL RELATIONS OF CENTRAL
ASIA.
Internal Relations between Bokhara, Khiva, and Khokand
External Relations with Turkey, Persia, China, and Russia.
CHAPTER XXIV.--Page 439
THE RIVALRY OF THE RUSSIANS AND ENGLISH IN CENTRAL ASIA.
Attitude of Russia and England towards Central Asia
Progress of Russia on the Jaxartes.
{xviii}
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Dervishes at Bokhara--Frontispiece
Reception by Turkoman Chief on the Caspian Shore--45
Intruding upon the Haunts of the Wild Boar--72
Wild Man in the Desert--108
Receiving Payment for Human Heads--Khiva--140
The Ferry across the Oxus--149
Tebbad--Sand Storm in the Desert--161
Entry of the Emir into Samarcand--216
'I swear you are an Englishman!'--278
Tent in Central Asia--316
Tartar Horse Race--Pursuit of a Bride (Kokburi)--323
Market on Horseback--Amongst the Özbegs--345
Map of Central Asia, showing Author's Route--At the end
{1}
TRAVELS IN CENTRAL ASIA
CHAPTER I.
TRAVELLING IN PERSIA
SLEEP ON HORSEBACK
TEHERAN
RECEPTION AT THE TURKISH EMBASSY
TURKEY AND PERSIA FERRUKH KHAN'S VISIT TO EUROPE
WAR BETWEEN DOST MOHAMMED KHAN AND SULTAN AHMED KHAN
EXCURSION TO SHIRAZ.
_Je marchais, et mes compagnons flottaient comme des branches par l'effet
du sommeil.--Victor Hugo, from Omaïah ben Aiëdz_.
[Travelling in Persia]
Whoever has travelled through Persia in the middle of July will
sympathise with me when I say how glad I felt at having got through
the district that extends from Tabris to Teheran. It is a distance of
only fifteen, or perhaps we may rather say of only thirteen karavan
stations: still, it is fearfully fatiguing, when circumstances compel
one to toil slowly from station to station under a scorching sun,
mounted upon a laden mule, and condemned to see nothing but such
drought and barrenness as characterise almost the whole of Persia. How
bitter the disappointment to him who has studied Persia only in Saadi,
Khakani, and Hafiz; {2} or, still worse, who has received his dreamy
impressions of the East from the beautiful imaginings of Goethe's
'Ost-Westlicher Divan,' or Victor Hugo's 'Orientales,' or the
magnificent picturings of Tom Moore!
[Sleep on Horseback; Teheran]
It was not until we were about two stations from Teheran, that the
idea struck our Djilodar [Footnote 2] to change our march by day into
night marches. But even this expedient had its inconveniences: for the
coolness of the night in Persia is a great disposer to slumber; the
slow pace of the animals has a composing effect, and one must really
firmly cling to them, or sometimes even suffer oneself to be bound on
by cords, to avoid being precipitated during one's sleep down upon the
sharp flint stones below. The Oriental, habituated to this constant
torment, sleeps sweetly enough, whatever may be the kind of saddle,
whether it be upon horse, camel, mule, or ass; and it gave me many a
moment of merry enjoyment, as I contemplated the tall, lanky,
long-robed Persians, lying outstretched with their feet nearly
touching the ground, and their heads supported upon the necks of the
patient beasts. In this position the Persians take their nap quite
tranquilly, whilst they unconsciously pass many stations. But, at that
time, Necessity, the mother of invention, had not yet imparted to me
the necessary experience; and whilst the greater part of my travelling
companions near me, in spite of their soft slumbers, were still riding
on, I was left undisturbed to the studious contemplation of the
Kervankusch and Pervins (Pleïades); and I looked with inexpressible
longing to that quarter where the Suheil (Canopus) {3} and the Sitarei
Subh (morning star) emerging, should announce the dawn of day, the
proximity of the station, and the end of our torments. What wonder
that I was somewhat in the condition of a half-boiled fish, when on
the 13th July, 1862, I approached the capital of Persia? We stopped at
a distance of a couple of English miles on the banks of a stream, to
let our beasts drink. The halt awakened my companions, who, still
sleepily rubbing their eyes, pointed out to me how Teheran was there
lying before us to the north-east. I looked about me, and perceived in
that direction a blue smoke rising and lengthening in long columns
upwards, permitting me, however, here and there to distinguish the
outline of a glittering dome, till at last, the vaporous veil having
gradually disappeared, I had the enjoyment, as Persians express
themselves, of beholding before me, in all her naked wretchedness, the
Darül Khilafe, or Seat of Sovereignty.
[Footnote 2: The same as Kervanbashi; one who hires the camels,
mules, asses, etc.]
I made my entry through the Dervaze (gate) No, and shall certainly not
soon forget the obstacles amidst which I had to force my way. Asses,
camels, and mules laden with barley straw, and bales of Persian or
European merchandise, were all pressing on in the most fearful
confusion, at the very entrance of the gate. Drawing up my legs under
me upon the saddle, and screaming out as lustily as my neighbours,
'Khaberdar, Khaberdar' (Take care), I at last succeeded in getting
into the city, though with no little trouble. I traversed the bazaar,
and finally reached the palace of the Turkish Embassy, without having
received any serious wound either by squeeze, blow, or cut.
{4}
[Reception at the Turkish Embassy]
A native of Hungary, sent by the Hungarian Academy upon a scientific
mission to Central Asia, what had I to do at the Turkish Embassy? This
will appear from the Preface, to which I respectfully request my
readers' attention, in spite of the prejudice condemning such
introductions as tiresome and unnecessary.
With Haydar Efendi, who then represented the Porte at the Persian
Court, I had been already acquainted at Constantinople. He had
previously filled similar functions at St. Petersburg and at Paris.
But, notwithstanding my being personally known to him, I was bearer
also of letters from his most esteemed friends; and, counting upon the
oft-proved hospitality of the Turks, I felt sure of meeting with a
good reception. I consequently regarded the residence of the Turkish
Embassy as my future abode; and as these gentlemen had resorted
already to their yailar or summer seat at Djizer (eight English miles
from Teheran), I only changed my clothes, and after indulging in a few
hours' repose to atone for my recent sleepless nights, I mounted an
ass, hired for an excursion into the country, and in two hours found
myself in the presence of the Efendis, who, in a magnificent tent of
silk, were just about to commence a dinner possessing in my eyes still
superior magnificence and attraction.
My reception, both by the ambassador and the secretaries, was of the
most friendly description: room was soon found for me at the table,
and in a few moments we were in deep conversation, respecting Stamboul
and her beautiful views, the Sultan and his mode of government. Ah!
how refreshing in Teheran is the recollection of the Bosphorus!
{5}
[Turkey and Persia]
What wonder if, in the course of the conversation, frequent
comparisons were instituted between the Persian and the Turkish manner
of living?
If one too hastily gives way to first impressions, Iran, the theme of
so much poetic enthusiasm, is, after all, nothing but a frightful
waste; whereas Turkey is really an earthly paradise. I accord to the
Persian all the politeness of manners, and all the readiness and
vivacity of wit, that are wanting to the Osmanli; but in the latter
the absence of these qualities is more than compensated by an
integrity and an honourable frankness not possessed by his rival. The
Persian can boast a poetic organisation and an ancient civilisation.
The superiority of the Osmanli results from the attention he is paying
to the languages of Europe, and his disposition gradually to acquaint
himself with the progress that European savans have made in chemistry,
physics, and history.
Our conversation was prolonged far into night. The following days were
devoted to my presentation at the other European embassies. I found
Count Gobineau, the Imperial ambassador, under a small tent in a
garden like a caldron, where the heat was awful. Mr. Alison was more
comfortably quartered in his garden at Gulahek, purchased for him by
his Government. He was very friendly. I had often the opportunity, at
his hospitable table, of studying the question why the English envoys
everywhere distinguish themselves amongst their diplomatic brethren,
by the comfortableness as well as the splendour of their
establishments. In addition to the diplomatic corps of Europe, I found
at that time at Teheran many officers, French or Italian; an Austrian
officer, too, of the engineers, R. von Gasteiger; all of them in the
service of the Shah, with liberal allowances. {6} These gentlemen, as
I heard, were disposed to render themselves very serviceable,
possessing all the requisite qualifications; but any benefit that
might have resulted was entirely neutralised by the systematic want of
system that existed in Persia, and by the low intrigues of the
Persians.
[Ferrukh Khan's Visit to Europe]
The object of Ferrukh Khan's diplomatic journeys in Europe was in
reality to show our cabinets how much Iran had it at heart to obtain
admittance into the comity of States. He begged aid everywhere, that
his country might have the wondrous elixir of civilisation imparted to
it as rapidly as possible. All Europe thought that Persia was really
upon the point of adopting every European custom and principle. As
Ferrukh Khan has a long beard, wears long robes and a high hat, which
give him a very earnest look, our ministers were kind enough to attach
to him unlimited credit. Wishing to honour a regular Government in
Persia, troops of officers, artists, and artisans flocked to him. They
went still further, and hastened to return the visits of the Envoy
Extraordinary of the Shah. In consequence we saw Belgium, at no small
expense, forwarding an ambassador to Persia to study commercial
relations, to make treaties of commerce, and to give effect to
numberless other strokes of policy. He arrived, and I can scarcely
imagine that his first report home could have begun with 'Veni, vidi,
vici,' or that he could have felt the slightest desire to pay a second
visit to 'la belle Perse.' Next to Belgium came Prussia. The learned
diplomatist Baron von Minutoli, to whom the mission was entrusted,
devoted his life to it. His thirst after science impelled him to
proceed to South Persia; and at only two days' journey from 'heavenly
Shiraz,' as the Persians call it, he fell a sacrifice to the
pestilential air, and now {7} reposes in the place last mentioned, a
few paces from Hafiz, and behind the Baghi Takht.
A few days after I came, the embassy of the new kingdom of Italy
arrived also, consisting of twenty persons, divided into diplomatic,
military, and scientific sections. The object they had in view has
remained always a mystery to me. I have much to recount respecting
their reception, but prefer to keep these details for a better
occasion, and to busy myself more especially with the preparations I
then made for my own journey.
[War between Dost Mohammed Khan and Sultan Ahmed Khan; Excursion to
Shiraz]
By the kind offices of my friends at the Turkish Embassy, I was in a
condition very little suited to the character of a mendicant Dervish
which I was about to assume: the comforts I was enjoying were heartily
distasteful to me, and I should have preferred, after my ten days'
repose at Teheran, to proceed at once to Meshed and Herat, had not
obstacles, long dreaded, interfered with my design. Even before the
date of my leaving Constantinople, I had heard, by the daily press, of
the war declared by Dost Mohammed Khan against his son-in-law and
former vassal at Herat, Sultan Ahmed Khan, because the latter had
broken his fealty to him, and had placed himself under the suzerainty
of the Shah of Persia. Our European papers seemed to me to exaggerate
the whole matter, and the story failed to excite in me the
apprehensions it really ought to have done. I regarded the
difficulties as unreal, and began my journey. Nevertheless, here in
Teheran, at a distance of only thirty-two days' journey from the seat
of war, I learnt from undeniable sources, to my very great regret,
that the war in those parts had really broken off all communications,
and that since the siege had begun, no karavan, still less any
solitary {8} traveller, could pass either from or to Herat. Persians
themselves dared not venture their wares or their lives; but there
would have been far more cause for apprehension in the case of a
European whose foreign lineaments would, in those savage Asiatic
districts, even in periods of peace, be regarded by an Oriental with
mistrust, and must singularly displease him in time of war. The
chances, indeed, seemed to be, if I ventured thither, that I should be
unceremoniously massacred by the Afghans. I began to realise my actual
position, and convinced myself of the impossibility, for the moment,
of prosecuting my journey under such circumstances; and in order not
to reach, during the wintry season, Bokhara, in the wastes of Central
Asia, I immediately determined to postpone my journey till next March,
when I should have the finest season of the year before me; and,
perhaps, in the meantime the existing political relations, which
barricaded Herat, the gate of Central Asia, from all approach, might
have ceased. It was not till the beginning of September that I became
reconciled to this necessity. It will be readily understood how
unpleasant it was for me to have to spend five or six months in a
country possessing for me only secondary interest, and respecting
which so many excellent accounts have already appeared. Not, then,
with any serious intention of studying Persia, but rather to withdraw
myself from a state of inactivity calculated to be prejudicial to my
future purposes, I quitted, in a semi-dervish character, my hospitable
Turkish friends, and proceeded at once by Ispahan to Shiraz, and so
obtained the enjoyment of visiting the oft-described monuments of
ancient Iran civilisation.
{9}