CHAPTER IV

IN COWBOY LAND

Though I had previously made a trip into the then Territory of Dakota,

beyond the Red River, it was not until 1883 that I went to the Little

Missouri, and there took hold of two cattle ranches, the Chimney Butte

and the Elkhorn.

It was still the Wild West in those days, the Far West, the West of

Owen Wister's stories and Frederic Remington's drawings, the West of

the Indian and the buffalo-hunter, the soldier and the cow-puncher. That

land of the West has gone now, "gone, gone with lost Atlantis," gone to

the isle of ghosts and of strange dead memories. It was a land of vast

silent spaces, of lonely rivers, and of plains where the wild game

stared at the passing horseman. It was a land of scattered ranches, of

herds of long-horned cattle, and of reckless riders who unmoved looked

in the eyes of life or of death. In that land we led a free and hardy

life, with horse and with rifle. We worked under the scorching midsummer

sun, when the wide plains shimmered and wavered in the heat; and we knew

the freezing misery of riding night guard round the cattle in the late

fall round-up. In the soft springtime the stars were glorious in our

eyes each night before we fell asleep; and in the winter we rode through

blinding blizzards, when the driven snow-dust burned our faces. There

were monotonous days, as we guided the trail cattle or the beef herds,

hour after hour, at the slowest of walks; and minutes or hours teeming

with excitement as we stopped stampedes or swam the herds across rivers

treacherous with quicksands or brimmed with running ice. We knew toil

and hardship and hunger and thirst; and we saw men die violent deaths

as they worked among the horses and cattle, or fought in evil feuds with

one another; but we felt the beat of hardy life in our veins, and ours

was the glory of work and the joy of living.

It was right and necessary that this life should pass, for the safety of

our country lies in its being made the country of the small home-maker.

The great unfenced ranches, in the days of "free grass," necessarily

represented a temporary stage in our history. The large migratory flocks

of sheep, each guarded by the hired shepherds of absentee owners, were

the first enemies of the cattlemen; and owing to the way they ate out

the grass and destroyed all other vegetation, these roving sheep

bands represented little of permanent good to the country. But the

homesteaders, the permanent settlers, the men who took up each his own

farm on which he lived and brought up his family, these represented from

the National standpoint the most desirable of all possible users of,

and dwellers on, the soil. Their advent meant the breaking up of the big

ranches; and the change was a National gain, although to some of us an

individual loss.

I first reached the Little Missouri on a Northern Pacific train about

three in the morning of a cool September day in 1883. Aside from the

station, the only building was a ramshackle structure called the Pyramid

Park Hotel. I dragged my duffle-bag thither, and hammered at the door

until the frowsy proprietor appeared, muttering oaths. He ushered me

upstairs, where I was given one of the fourteen beds in the room which

by itself constituted the entire upper floor. Next day I walked over

to the abandoned army post, and, after some hours among the gray log

shacks, a ranchman who had driven into the station agreed to take me

out to his ranch, the Chimney Butte ranch, where he was living with his

brother and their partner.

The ranch was a log structure with a dirt roof, a corral for the horses

near by, and a chicken-house jabbed against the rear of the ranch house.

Inside there was only one room, with a table, three or four chairs, a

cooking-stove, and three bunks. The owners were Sylvane and Joe Ferris

and William J. Merrifield. Later all three of them held my commissions

while I was President. Merrifield was Marshal of Montana, and as

Presidential elector cast the vote of that State for me in 1904; Sylvane

Ferris was Land Officer in North Dakota, and Joe Ferris Postmaster at

Medora. There was a fourth man, George Meyer, who also worked for me

later. That evening we all played old sledge round the table, and at one

period the game was interrupted by a frightful squawking outside which

told us that a bobcat had made a raid on the chicken-house.

After a buffalo hunt with my original friend, Joe Ferris, I entered into

partnership with Merrifield and Sylvane Ferris, and we started a cow

ranch, with the maltese cross brand--always known as "maltee cross," by

the way, as the general impression along the Little Missouri was that

"maltese" must be a plural. Twenty-nine years later my four friends of

that night were delegates to the First Progressive National Convention

at Chicago. They were among my most constant companions for the few

years next succeeding the evening when the bobcat interrupted the game

of old sledge. I lived and worked with them on the ranch, and with them

and many others like them on the round-up; and I brought out from

Maine, in order to start the Elkhorn ranch lower down the river, my two

backwoods friends Sewall and Dow. My brands for the lower ranch were the

elkhorn and triangle.

I do not believe there ever was any life more attractive to a vigorous

young fellow than life on a cattle ranch in those days. It was a fine,

healthy life, too; it taught a man self-reliance, hardihood, and the

value of instant decision--in short, the virtues that ought to come

from life in the open country. I enjoyed the life to the full. After the

first year I built on the Elkhorn ranch a long, low ranch house of

hewn logs, with a veranda, and with, in addition to the other rooms, a

bedroom for myself, and a sitting-room with a big fire-place. I got out

a rocking-chair--I am very fond of rocking-chairs--and enough books to

fill two or three shelves, and a rubber bathtub so that I could get

a bath. And then I do not see how any one could have lived more

comfortably. We had buffalo robes and bearskins of our own killing. We

always kept the house clean--using the word in a rather large sense.

There were at least two rooms that were always warm, even in the

bitterest weather; and we had plenty to eat. Commonly the mainstay

of every meal was game of our own killing, usually antelope or deer,

sometimes grouse or ducks, and occasionally, in the earlier days,

buffalo or elk. We also had flour and bacon, sugar, salt, and canned

tomatoes. And later, when some of the men married and brought out their

wives, we had all kinds of good things, such as jams and jellies made

from the wild plums and the buffalo berries, and potatoes from the

forlorn little garden patch. Moreover, we had milk. Most ranchmen at

that time never had milk. I knew more than one ranch with ten thousand

head of cattle where there was not a cow that could be milked. We made

up our minds that we would be more enterprising. Accordingly, we started

to domesticate some of the cows. Our first effort was not successful,

chiefly because we did not devote the needed time and patience to the

matter. And we found that to race a cow two miles at full speed on

horseback, then rope her, throw her, and turn her upside down to milk

her, while exhilarating as a pastime, was not productive of results.

Gradually we accumulated tame cows, and, after we had thinned out the

bobcats and coyotes, more chickens.

The ranch house stood on the brink of a low bluff overlooking the broad,

shallow bed of the Little Missouri, through which at most seasons there

ran only a trickle of water, while in times of freshet it was filled

brimful with the boiling, foaming, muddy torrent. There was no neighbor

for ten or fifteen miles on either side of me. The river twisted down

in long curves between narrow bottoms bordered by sheer cliff walls,

for the Bad Lands, a chaos of peaks, plateaus, and ridges, rose abruptly

from the edges of the level, tree-clad, or grassy, alluvial meadows.

In front of the ranch-house veranda was a row of cottonwood trees with

gray-green leaves which quivered all day long if there was a breath of

air. From these trees came the far-away, melancholy cooing of mourning

doves, and little owls perched in them and called tremulously at night.

In the long summer afternoons we would sometimes sit on the piazza, when

there was no work to be done, for an hour or two at a time, watching the

cattle on the sand-bars, and the sharply channeled and strangely carved

amphitheater of cliffs across the bottom opposite; while the vultures

wheeled overhead, their black shadows gliding across the glaring white

of the dry river-bed. Sometimes from the ranch we saw deer, and once

when we needed meat I shot one across the river as I stood on the

piazza. In the winter, in the days of iron cold, when everything was

white under the snow, the river lay in its bed fixed and immovable as a

bar of bent steel, and then at night wolves and lynxes traveled up and

down it as if it had been a highway passing in front of the ranch house.

Often in the late fall or early winter, after a hard day's hunting, or

when returning from one of the winter line camps, we did not reach the

ranch until hours after sunset; and after the weary tramping in the

cold it was keen pleasure to catch the first red gleam of the fire-lit

windows across the snowy wastes.

The Elkhorn ranch house was built mainly by Sewall and Dow, who, like

most men from the Maine woods, were mighty with the ax. I could chop

fairly well for an amateur, but I could not do one-third the work they

could. One day when we were cutting down the cottonwood trees, to begin

our building operations, I heard some one ask Dow what the total cut had

been, and Dow not realizing that I was within hearing, answered: "Well,

Bill cut down fifty-three, I cut forty-nine, and the boss he beavered

down seventeen." Those who have seen the stump of a tree which has

been gnawed down by a beaver will understand the exact force of the

comparison.

In those days on a cow ranch the men were apt to be away on the various

round-ups at least half the time. It was interesting and exciting work,

and except for the lack of sleep on the spring and summer round-ups

it was not exhausting work; compared to lumbering or mining or

blacksmithing, to sit in the saddle is an easy form of labor. The ponies

were of course grass-fed and unshod. Each man had his own string of

nine or ten. One pony would be used for the morning work, one for the

afternoon, and neither would again be used for the next three days. A

separate pony was kept for night riding.

The spring and early summer round-ups were especially for the branding

of calves. There was much hard work and some risk on a round-up, but

also much fun. The meeting-place was appointed weeks beforehand, and all

the ranchmen of the territory to be covered by the round-up sent their

representatives. There were no fences in the West that I knew, and their

place was taken by the cowboy and the branding-iron. The cattle wandered

free. Each calf was branded with the brand of the cow it was following.

Sometimes in winter there was what we called line riding; that is, camps

were established and the line riders traveled a definite beat across the

desolate wastes of snow, to and fro from one camp to another, to prevent

the cattle from drifting. But as a rule nothing was done to keep the

cattle in any one place. In the spring there was a general round-up in

each locality. Each outfit took part in its own round-up, and all the

outfits of a given region combined to send representatives to the two or

three round-ups that covered the neighborhoods near by into which their

cattle might drift. For example, our Little Missouri round-up generally

worked down the river from a distance of some fifty or sixty miles above

my ranch toward the Kildeer Mountains, about the same distance below.

In addition we would usually send representatives to the Yellowstone

round-up, and to the round-up along the upper Little Missouri; and,

moreover, if we heard that cattle had drifted, perhaps toward the Indian

reservation southeast of us, we would send a wagon and rider after them.

At the meeting-point, which might be in the valley of a half-dry stream,

or in some broad bottom of the river itself, or perchance by a couple of

ponds under some queerly shaped butte that was a landmark for the region

round about, we would all gather on the appointed day. The chuck-wagons,

containing the bedding and food, each drawn by four horses and driven

by the teamster cook, would come jolting and rattling over the

uneven sward. Accompanying each wagon were eight or ten riders, the

cow-punchers, while their horses, a band of a hundred or so, were driven

by the two herders, one of whom was known as the day wrangler and one

as the night wrangler. The men were lean, sinewy fellows, accustomed

to riding half-broken horses at any speed over any country by day or by

night. They wore flannel shirts, with loose handkerchiefs knotted round

their necks, broad hats, high-heeled boots with jingling spurs, and

sometimes leather shaps, although often they merely had their trousers

tucked into the tops of their high boots. There was a good deal of rough

horse-play, and, as with any other gathering of men or boys of high

animal spirits, the horse-play sometimes became very rough indeed; and

as the men usually carried revolvers, and as there were occasionally one

or two noted gun-fighters among them, there was now and then a shooting

affray. A man who was a coward or who shirked his work had a bad time,

of course; a man could not afford to let himself be bullied or treated

as a butt; and, on the other hand, if he was "looking for a fight," he

was certain to find it. But my own experience was that if a man did not

talk until his associates knew him well and liked him, and if he did

his work, he never had any difficulty in getting on. In my own round-up

district I speedily grew to be friends with most of the men. When I went

among strangers I always had to spend twenty-four hours in living

down the fact that I wore spectacles, remaining as long as I could

judiciously deaf to any side remarks about "four eyes," unless it became

evident that my being quiet was misconstrued and that it was better to

bring matters to a head at once.

If, for instance, I was sent off to represent the Little Missouri brands

on some neighboring round-up, such as the Yellowstone, I usually showed

that kind of diplomacy which consists in not uttering one word that

can be avoided. I would probably have a couple of days' solitary ride,

mounted on one horse and driving eight or ten others before me, one of

them carrying my bedding. Loose horses drive best at a trot, or canter,

and if a man is traveling alone in this fashion it is a good thing to

have them reach the camp ground sufficiently late to make them desire

to feed and sleep where they are until morning. In consequence I never

spent more than two days on the journey from whatever the point was at

which I left the Little Missouri, sleeping the one night for as limited

a number of hours as possible.

As soon as I reached the meeting-place I would find out the wagon

to which I was assigned. Riding to it, I turned my horses into the

saddle-band and reported to the wagon boss, or, in his absence, to the

cook--always a privileged character, who was allowed and expected to

order men around. He would usually grumble savagely and profanely about

my having been put with his wagon, but this was merely conventional on

his part; and if I sat down and said nothing he would probably soon ask

me if I wanted anything to eat, to which the correct answer was that I

was not hungry and would wait until meal-time. The bedding rolls of

the riders would be strewn round the grass, and I would put mine down a

little outside the ring, where I would not be in any one's way, with my

six or eight branding-irons beside it. The men would ride in, laughing

and talking with one another, and perhaps nodding to me. One of their

number, usually the wagon foreman, might put some question to me as to

what brands I represented, but no other word would be addressed to me,

nor would I be expected to volunteer any conversation. Supper would

consist of bacon, Dutch oven bread, and possibly beef; once I won

the good graces of my companions at the outset by appearing with two

antelope which I had shot. After supper I would roll up in my bedding as

soon as possible, and the others would follow suit at their pleasure.

At three in the morning or thereabouts, at a yell from the cook, all

hands would turn hurriedly out. Dressing was a simple affair. Then each

man rolled and corded his bedding--if he did not, the cook would leave

it behind and he would go without any for the rest of the trip--and came

to the fire, where he picked out a tin cup, tin plate, and knife and

fork, helped himself to coffee and to whatever food there was, and ate

it standing or squatting as best suited him. Dawn was probably breaking

by this time, and the trampling of unshod hoofs showed that the night

wrangler was bringing in the pony herd. Two of the men would then run

ropes from the wagon at right angles to one another, and into this as

a corral the horses would be driven. Each man might rope one of his own

horses, or more often point it out to the most skillful roper of the

outfit, who would rope it for him--for if the man was an unskillful

roper and roped the wrong horse or roped the horse in the wrong place

there was a chance of the whole herd stampeding. Each man then saddled

and bridled his horse. This was usually followed by some resolute

bucking on the part of two or three of the horses, especially in

the early days of each round-up. The bucking was always a source of

amusement to all the men whose horses did not buck, and these fortunate

ones would gather round giving ironical advice, and especially adjuring

the rider not to "go to leather"--that is, not to steady himself in the

saddle by catching hold of the saddle-horn.

As soon as the men had mounted, the whole outfit started on the long

circle, the morning circle. Usually the ranch foreman who bossed a given

wagon was put in charge of the men of one group by the round-up foreman;

he might keep his men together until they had gone some ten or fifteen

miles from camp, and then drop them in couples at different points. Each

couple made its way toward the wagon, gathering all the cattle it could

find. The morning's ride might last six or eight hours, and it was still

longer before some of the men got in. Singly and in twos and threes they

appeared from every quarter of the horizon, the dust rising from the

hoofs of the steers and bulls, the cows and calves, they had collected.

Two or three of the men were left to take care of the herd while the

others changed horses, ate a hasty dinner, and then came out to the

afternoon work. This consisted of each man in succession being sent into

the herd, usually with a companion, to cut out the cows of his brand or

brands which were followed by unbranded calves, and also to cut out any

mavericks or unbranded yearlings. We worked each animal gently out to

the edge of the herd, and then with a sudden dash took it off at a run.

It was always desperately anxious to break back and rejoin the herd.

There was much breakneck galloping and twisting and turning before its

desire was thwarted and it was driven to join the rest of the cut--that

is, the other animals which had been cut out, and which were being held

by one or two other men. Cattle hate being alone, and it was no easy

matter to hold the first one or two that were cut out; but soon they

got a little herd of their own, and then they were contented. When

the cutting out had all been done, the calves were branded, and all

misadventures of the "calf wrestlers," the men who seized, threw, and

held each calf when roped by the mounted roper, were hailed with yelling

laughter. Then the animals which for one reason or another it was

desired to drive along with the round-up were put into one herd and left

in charge of a couple of night guards, and the rest of us would loaf

back to the wagon for supper and bed.

By this time I would have been accepted as one of the rest of the

outfit, and all strangeness would have passed off, the attitude of my

fellow cow-punchers being one of friendly forgiveness even toward my

spectacles. Night guards for the cattle herd were then assigned by the

captain of the wagon, or perhaps by the round-up foreman, according to

the needs of the case, the guards standing for two hours at a time

from eight in the evening till four in the morning. The first and last

watches were preferable, because sleep was not broken as in both of

the other two. If things went well, the cattle would soon bed down and

nothing further would occur until morning, when there was a repetition

of the work, the wagon moving each day eight or ten miles to some

appointed camping-place.

Each man would picket his night horse near the wagon, usually choosing

the quietest animal in his string for that purpose, because to saddle

and mount a "mean" horse at night is not pleasant. When utterly

tired, it was hard to have to get up for one's trick at night herd.

Nevertheless, on ordinary nights the two hours round the cattle in the

still darkness were pleasant. The loneliness, under the vast empty sky,

and the silence, in which the breathing of the cattle sounded loud, and

the alert readiness to meet any emergency which might suddenly arise

out of the formless night, all combined to give one a sense of subdued

interest. Then, one soon got to know the cattle of marked individuality,

the ones that led the others into mischief; and one also grew to

recognize the traits they all possessed in common, and the impulses

which, for instance, made a whole herd get up towards midnight, each

beast turning round and then lying down again. But by the end of the

watch each rider had studied the cattle until it grew monotonous, and

heartily welcomed his relief guard. A newcomer, of course, had any

amount to learn, and sometimes the simplest things were those which

brought him to grief.

One night early in my career I failed satisfactorily to identify the

direction in which I was to go in order to reach the night herd. It was

a pitch-dark night. I managed to get started wrong, and I never found

either the herd or the wagon again until sunrise, when I was greeted

with withering scorn by the injured cow-puncher, who had been obliged to

stand double guard because I failed to relieve him.

There were other misadventures that I met with where the excuse was

greater. The punchers on night guard usually rode round the cattle in

reverse directions; calling and singing to them if the beasts seemed

restless, to keep them quiet. On rare occasions something happened that

made the cattle stampede, and then the duty of the riders was to keep

with them as long as possible and try gradually to get control of them.

One night there was a heavy storm, and all of us who were at the wagons

were obliged to turn out hastily to help the night herders. After a

while there was a terrific peal of thunder, the lightning struck right

by the herd, and away all the beasts went, heads and horns and tails in

the air. For a minute or two I could make out nothing except the dark

forms of the beasts running on every side of me, and I should have been

very sorry if my horse had stumbled, for those behind would have trodden

me down. Then the herd split, part going to one side, while the other

part seemingly kept straight ahead, and I galloped as hard as ever

beside them. I was trying to reach the point--the leading animals--in

order to turn them, when suddenly there was a tremendous splashing in

front. I could dimly make out that the cattle immediately ahead and to

one side of me were disappearing, and the next moment the horse and I

went off a cut bank into the Little Missouri. I bent away back in the

saddle, and though the horse almost went down he just recovered himself,

and, plunging and struggling through water and quicksand, we made the

other side. Here I discovered that there was another cowboy with

the same part of the herd that I was with; but almost immediately we

separated. I galloped hard through a bottom covered with big cottonwood

trees, and stopped the part of the herd that I was with, but very soon

they broke on me again, and repeated this twice. Finally toward morning

the few I had left came to a halt.

It had been raining hard for some time. I got off my horse and leaned

against a tree, but before long the infernal cattle started on again,

and I had to ride after them. Dawn came soon after this, and I was

able to make out where I was and head the cattle back, collecting other

little bunches as I went. After a while I came on a cowboy on foot

carrying his saddle on his head. He was my companion of the previous

night. His horse had gone full speed into a tree and killed itself, the

man, however, not being hurt. I could not help him, as I had all I could

do to handle the cattle. When I got them to the wagon, most of the other

men had already come in and the riders were just starting on the long

circle. One of the men changed my horse for me while I ate a hasty

breakfast, and then we were off for the day's work.

As only about half of the night herd had been brought back, the circle

riding was particularly heavy, and it was ten hours before we were back

at the wagon. We then changed horses again and worked the whole herd

until after sunset, finishing just as it grew too dark to do anything

more. By this time I had been nearly forty hours in the saddle, changing

horses five times, and my clothes had thoroughly dried on me, and I fell

asleep as soon as I touched the bedding. Fortunately some men who had

gotten in late in the morning had had their sleep during the daytime, so

that the rest of us escaped night guard and were not called until four

next morning. Nobody ever gets enough sleep on a round-up.

The above was the longest number of consecutive hours I ever had to be

in the saddle. But, as I have said, I changed horses five times, and it

is a great lightening of labor for a rider to have a fresh horse. Once

when with Sylvane Ferris I spent about sixteen hours on one horse,

riding seventy or eighty miles. The round-up had reached a place called

the ox-bow of the Little Missouri, and we had to ride there, do some

work around the cattle, and ride back.

Another time I was twenty-four hours on horseback in company with

Merrifield without changing horses. On this occasion we did not travel

fast. We had been coming back with the wagon from a hunting trip in

the Big Horn Mountains. The team was fagged out, and we were tired of

walking at a snail's pace beside it. When we reached country that the

driver thoroughly knew, we thought it safe to leave him, and we loped in

one night across a distance which it took the wagon the three following

days to cover. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and the ride was

delightful. All day long we had plodded at a walk, weary and hot. At

supper time we had rested two or three hours, and the tough little

riding horses seemed as fresh as ever. It was in September. As we rode

out of the circle of the firelight, the air was cool in our faces.

Under the bright moonlight, and then under the starlight, we loped

and cantered mile after mile over the high prairie. We passed bands of

antelope and herds of long-horn Texas cattle, and at last, just as the

first red beams of the sun flamed over the bluffs in front of us, we

rode down into the valley of the Little Missouri, where our ranch house

stood.

I never became a good roper, nor more than an average rider, according

to ranch standards. Of course a man on a ranch has to ride a good many

bad horses, and is bound to encounter a certain number of accidents,

and of these I had my share, at one time cracking a rib, and on another

occasion the point of my shoulder. We were hundreds of miles from a

doctor, and each time, as I was on the round-up, I had to get through my

work for the next few weeks as best I could, until the injury healed

of itself. When I had the opportunity I broke my own horses, doing it

gently and gradually and spending much time over it, and choosing the

horses that seemed gentle to begin with. With these horses I never had

any difficulty. But frequently there was neither time nor opportunity

to handle our mounts so elaborately. We might get a band of horses, each

having been bridled and saddled two or three times, but none of them

having been broken beyond the extent implied in this bridling and

saddling. Then each of us in succession would choose a horse (for his

string), I as owner of the ranch being given the first choice on each

round, so to speak. The first time I was ever on a round-up Sylvane

Ferris, Merrifield, Meyer, and I each chose his string in this fashion.

Three or four of the animals I got were not easy to ride. The effort

both to ride them and to look as if I enjoyed doing so, on some cool

morning when my grinning cowboy friends had gathered round "to see

whether the high-headed bay could buck the boss off," doubtless was of

benefit to me, but lacked much of being enjoyable. The time I smashed

my rib I was bucked off on a stone. The time I hurt the point of my

shoulder I was riding a big, sulky horse named Ben Butler, which went

over backwards with me. When we got up it still refused to go anywhere;

so, while I sat it, Sylvane Ferris and George Meyer got their ropes on

its neck and dragged it a few hundred yards, choking but stubborn, all

four feet firmly planted and plowing the ground. When they released

the ropes it lay down and wouldn't get up. The round-up had started; so

Sylvane gave me his horse, Baldy, which sometimes bucked but never

went over backwards, and he got on the now rearisen Ben Butler. To my

discomfiture Ben started quietly beside us, while Sylvane remarked,

"Why, there's nothing the matter with this horse; he's a plumb gentle

horse." Then Ben fell slightly behind and I heard Sylvane again, "That's

all right! Come along! Here, you! Go on, you! Hi, hi, fellows, help me

out! he's lying on me!" Sure enough, he was; and when we dragged Sylvane

from under him the first thing the rescued Sylvane did was to execute

a war-dance, spurs and all, on the iniquitous Ben. We could do nothing

with him that day; subsequently we got him so that we could ride him;

but he never became a nice saddle-horse.

As with all other forms of work, so on the round-up, a man of ordinary

power, who nevertheless does not shirk things merely because they are

disagreeable or irksome, soon earns his place. There were crack riders

and ropers who, just because they felt such overweening pride in their

own prowess, were not really very valuable men. Continually on the

circles a cow or a calf would get into some thick patch of bulberry bush

and refuse to come out; or when it was getting late we would pass some

bad lands that would probably not contain cattle, but might; or a steer

would turn fighting mad, or a calf grow tired and want to lie down.

If in such a case the man steadily persists in doing the unattractive

thing, and after two hours of exasperation and harassment does finally

get the cow out, and keep her out, of the bulberry bushes, and drives

her to the wagon, or finds some animals that have been passed by in the

fourth or fifth patch of bad lands he hunts through, or gets the calf

up on his saddle and takes it in anyhow, the foreman soon grows to treat

him as having his uses and as being an asset of worth in the round-up,

even though neither a fancy roper nor a fancy rider.

When at the Progressive Convention last August, I met George Meyer for

the first time in many years, and he recalled to me an incident on one

round-up where we happened to be thrown together while driving some cows

and calves to camp. When the camp was only just across the river, two of

the calves positively refused to go any further. He took one of them

in his arms, and after some hazardous maneuvering managed to get on

his horse, in spite of the objections of the latter, and rode into the

river. My calf was too big for such treatment, so in despair I roped

it, intending to drag it over. However, as soon as I roped it, the calf

started bouncing and bleating, and, owing to some lack of dexterity on

my part, suddenly swung round the rear of the horse, bringing the rope

under his tail. Down went the tail tight, and the horse "went into

figures," as the cow-puncher phrase of that day was. There was a cut

bank about four feet high on the hither side of the river, and over this

the horse bucked. We went into the water with a splash. With a "pluck"

the calf followed, described a parabola in the air, and landed beside

us. Fortunately, this took the rope out from under the horse's tail,

but left him thoroughly frightened. He could not do much bucking in the

stream, for there were one or two places where we had to swim, and the

shallows were either sandy or muddy; but across we went, at speed, and

the calf made a wake like Pharaoh's army in the Red Sea.

On several occasions we had to fight fire. In the geography books of my

youth prairie fires were always portrayed as taking place in long grass,

and all living things ran before them. On the Northern cattle plains the

grass was never long enough to be a source of danger to man or beast.

The fires were nothing like the forest fires in the Northern woods. But

they destroyed large quantities of feed, and we had to stop them where

possible. The process we usually followed was to kill a steer, split it

in two lengthwise, and then have two riders drag each half-steer, the

rope of one running from his saddle-horn to the front leg, and that of

the other to the hind leg. One of the men would spur his horse over or

through the line of fire, and the two would then ride forward, dragging

the steer bloody side downward along the line of flame, men following

on foot with slickers or wet horse-blankets, to beat out any flickering

blaze that was still left. It was exciting work, for the fire and the

twitching and plucking of the ox carcass over the uneven ground maddened

the fierce little horses so that it was necessary to do some riding

in order to keep them to their work. After a while it also became very

exhausting, the thirst and fatigue being great, as, with parched lips

and blackened from head to foot, we toiled at our task.

In those years the Stockman's Association of Montana was a powerful

body. I was the delegate to it from the Little Missouri. The meetings

that I attended were held in Miles City, at that time a typical cow

town. Stockmen of all kinds attended, including the biggest men in the

stock business, men like old Conrad Kohrs, who was and is the finest

type of pioneer in all the Rocky Mountain country; and Granville

Stewart, who was afterwards appointed Minister by Cleveland, I think

to the Argentine; and "Hashknife" Simpson, a Texan who had brought his

cattle, the Hashknife brand, up the trail into our country. He and

I grew to be great friends. I can see him now the first time we met,

grinning at me as, none too comfortable, I sat a half-broken horse at

the edge of a cattle herd we were working. His son Sloan Simpson went to

Harvard, was one of the first-class men in my regiment, and afterwards

held my commission as Postmaster at Dallas.

At the stockmen's meeting in Miles City, in addition to the big

stockmen, there were always hundreds of cowboys galloping up and down

the wide dusty streets at every hour of the day and night. It was a

picturesque sight during the three days the meetings lasted. There was

always at least one big dance at the hotel. There were few dress suits,

but there was perfect decorum at the dance, and in the square dances

most of the men knew the figures far better than I did. With such a

crowd in town, sleeping accommodations of any sort were at a premium,

and in the hotel there were two men in every bed. On one occasion I had

a roommate whom I never saw, because he always went to bed much later

than I did and I always got up much earlier than he did. On the last

day, however, he rose at the same time and I saw that he was a man I

knew named Carter, and nicknamed "Modesty" Carter. He was a stalwart,

good-looking fellow, and I was sorry when later I heard that he had been

killed in a shooting row.

When I went West, the last great Indian wars had just come to an end,

but there were still sporadic outbreaks here and there, and occasionally

bands of marauding young braves were a menace to outlying and lonely

settlements. Many of the white men were themselves lawless and brutal,

and prone to commit outrages on the Indians. Unfortunately, each race

tended to hold all the members of the other race responsible for the

misdeeds of a few, so that the crime of the miscreant, red or white,

who committed the original outrage too often invited retaliation upon

entirely innocent people, and this action would in its turn arouse

bitter feeling which found vent in still more indiscriminate

retaliation. The first year I was on the Little Missouri some Sioux

bucks ran off all the horses of a buffalo-hunter's outfit. One of the

buffalo-hunters tried to get even by stealing the horses of a Cheyenne

hunting party, and when pursued made for a cow camp, with, as a result,

a long-range skirmish between the cowboys and the Cheyennes. One of the

latter was wounded; but this particular wounded man seemed to have

more sense than the other participants in the chain of wrong-doing, and

discriminated among the whites. He came into our camp and had his wound

dressed.

A year later I was at a desolate little mud road ranch on the Deadwood

trail. It was kept by a very capable and very forceful woman, with sound

ideas of justice and abundantly well able to hold her own. Her husband

was a worthless devil, who finally got drunk on some whisky he obtained

from an outfit of Missouri bull-whackers--that is, freighters, driving

ox wagons. Under the stimulus of the whisky he picked a quarrel with his

wife and attempted to beat her. She knocked him down with a stove-lid

lifter, and the admiring bull-whackers bore him off, leaving the lady

in full possession of the ranch. When I visited her she had a man named

Crow Joe working for her, a slab-sided, shifty-eyed person who later,

as I heard my foreman explain, "skipped the country with a bunch of

horses." The mistress of the ranch made first-class buckskin shirts of

great durability. The one she made for me, and which I used for years,

was used by one of my sons in Arizona a couple of winters ago. I had

ridden down into the country after some lost horses, and visited the

ranch to get her to make me the buckskin shirt in question. There

were, at the moment, three Indians there, Sioux, well behaved and

self-respecting, and she explained to me that they had been resting

there waiting for dinner, and that a white man had come along and tried

to run off their horses. The Indians were on the lookout, however, and,

running out, they caught the man; but, after retaking their horses and

depriving him of his gun, they let him go. "I don't see why they let him

go," exclaimed my hostess. "I don't believe in stealing Indians' horses

any more than white folks'; so I told 'em they could go along and hang

him--I'd never cheep. Anyhow, I won't charge them anything for their

dinner," concluded my hostess. She was in advance of the usual morality

of the time and place, which drew a sharp line between stealing

citizens' horses and stealing horses from the Government or the Indians.

A fairly decent citizen, Jap Hunt, who long ago met a violent death,

exemplified this attitude towards Indians in some remarks I once heard

him make. He had started a horse ranch, and had quite honestly purchased

a number of broken-down horses of different brands, with the view of

doctoring them and selling them again. About this time there had been

much horse-stealing and cattle-killing in our Territory and in Montana,

and under the direction of some of the big cattle-growers a committee

of vigilantes had been organized to take action against the rustlers,

as the horse thieves and cattle thieves were called. The vigilantes, or

stranglers, as they were locally known, did their work thoroughly; but,

as always happens with bodies of the kind, toward the end they grew

reckless in their actions, paid off private grudges, and hung men on

slight provocation. Riding into Jap Hunt's ranch, they nearly hung him

because he had so many horses of different brands. He was finally let

off. He was much upset by the incident, and explained again and again,

"The idea of saying that I was a horse thief! Why, I never stole a horse

in my life--leastways from a white man. I don't count Indians nor the

Government, of course." Jap had been reared among men still in the stage

of tribal morality, and while they recognized their obligations to one

another, both the Government and the Indians seemed alien bodies, in

regard to which the laws of morality did not apply.

On the other hand, parties of savage young bucks would treat lonely

settlers just as badly, and in addition sometimes murder them. Such a

party was generally composed of young fellows burning to distinguish

themselves. Some one of their number would have obtained a pass from

the Indian Agent allowing him to travel off the reservation, which pass

would be flourished whenever their action was questioned by bodies of

whites of equal strength. I once had a trifling encounter with such a

band. I was making my way along the edge of the bad lands, northward

from my lower ranch, and was just crossing a plateau when five Indians

rode up over the further rim. The instant they saw me they whipped

out their guns and raced full speed at me, yelling and flogging their

horses. I was on a favorite horse, Manitou, who was a wise old fellow,

with nerves not to be shaken by anything. I at once leaped off him and

stood with my rifle ready.

It was possible that the Indians were merely making a bluff and intended

no mischief. But I did not like their actions, and I thought it likely

that if I allowed them to get hold of me they would at least take my

horse and rifle, and possibly kill me. So I waited until they were a

hundred yards off and then drew a bead on the first. Indians--and, for

the matter of that, white men--do not like to ride in on a man who is

cool and means shooting, and in a twinkling every man was lying over the

side of his horse, and all five had turned and were galloping backwards,

having altered their course as quickly as so many teal ducks.

After this one of them made the peace sign, with his blanket first, and

then, as he rode toward me, with his open hand. I halted him at a fair

distance and asked him what he wanted. He exclaimed, "How! Me good

Injun, me good Injun," and tried to show me the dirty piece of paper on

which his agency pass was written. I told him with sincerity that I was

glad that he was a good Indian, but that he must not come any closer. He

then asked for sugar and tobacco. I told him I had none. Another Indian

began slowly drifting toward me in spite of my calling out to keep back,

so I once more aimed with my rifle, whereupon both Indians slipped to

the other side of their horses and galloped off, with oaths that did

credit to at least one side of their acquaintance with English. I now

mounted and pushed over the plateau on to the open prairie. In those

days an Indian, although not as good a shot as a white man, was

infinitely better at crawling under and taking advantage of cover; and

the worst thing a white man could do was to get into cover, whereas out

in the open if he kept his head he had a good chance of standing off

even half a dozen assailants. The Indians accompanied me for a couple of

miles. Then I reached the open prairie, and resumed my northward ride,

not being further molested.

In the old days in the ranch country we depended upon game for fresh

meat. Nobody liked to kill a beef, and although now and then a maverick

yearling might be killed on the round-up, most of us looked askance at

the deed, because if the practice of beef-killing was ever allowed to

start, the rustlers--the horse thieves and cattle thieves--would be sure

to seize on it as an excuse for general slaughter. Getting meat for the

ranch usually devolved upon me. I almost always carried a rifle when I

rode, either in a scabbard under my thigh, or across the pommel. Often

I would pick up a deer or antelope while about my regular work, when

visiting a line camp or riding after the cattle. At other times I would

make a day's trip after them. In the fall we sometimes took a wagon

and made a week's hunt, returning with eight or ten deer carcasses, and

perhaps an elk or a mountain sheep as well. I never became more than a

fair hunter, and at times I had most exasperating experiences, either

failing to see game which I ought to have seen, or committing some

blunder in the stalk, or failing to kill when I fired. Looking back,

I am inclined to say that if I had any good quality as a hunter it was

that of perseverance. "It is dogged that does it" in hunting as in many

other things. Unless in wholly exceptional cases, when we were very

hungry, I never killed anything but bucks.

Occasionally I made long trips away from the ranch and among the Rocky

Mountains with my ranch foreman Merrifield; or in later years with

Tazewell Woody, John Willis, or John Goff. We hunted bears, both the

black and the grizzly, cougars and wolves, and moose, wapiti, and white

goat. On one of these trips I killed a bison bull, and I also killed a

bison bull on the Little Missouri some fifty miles south of my ranch on

a trip which Joe Ferris and I took together. It was rather a rough trip.

Each of us carried only his slicker behind him on the saddle, with some

flour and bacon done up in it. We met with all kinds of misadventures.

Finally one night, when we were sleeping by a slimy little prairie pool

where there was not a stick of wood, we had to tie the horses to the

horns of our saddles; and then we went to sleep with our heads on the

saddles. In the middle of the night something stampeded the horses, and

away they went, with the saddles after them. As we jumped to our feet

Joe eyed me with an evident suspicion that I was the Jonah of the party,

and said: "O Lord! I've never done anything to deserve this. Did you

ever do anything to deserve this?"

In addition to my private duties, I sometimes served as deputy sheriff

for the northern end of our county. The sheriff and I crisscrossed in

our public and private relations. He often worked for me as a hired hand

at the same time that I was his deputy. His name, or at least the

name he went by, was Bill Jones, and as there were in the neighborhood

several Bill Joneses--Three Seven Bill Jones, Texas Bill Jones, and

the like--the sheriff was known as Hell Roaring Bill Jones. He was a

thorough frontiersman, excellent in all kinds of emergencies, and a

very game man. I became much attached to him. He was a thoroughly good

citizen when sober, but he was a little wild when drunk. Unfortunately,

toward the end of his life he got to drinking very heavily. When, in

1905, John Burroughs and I visited the Yellowstone Park, poor Bill

Jones, very much down in the world, was driving a team in Gardiner

outside the park. I had looked forward to seeing him, and he was equally

anxious to see me. He kept telling his cronies of our intimacy and of

what we were going to do together, and then got drinking; and the result

was that by the time I reached Gardiner he had to be carried out and

left in the sage-brush. When I came out of the park, I sent on in

advance to tell them to be sure to keep him sober, and they did so. But

it was a rather sad interview. The old fellow had gone to pieces, and

soon after I left he got lost in a blizzard and was dead when they found

him.

Bill Jones was a gun-fighter and also a good man with his fists. On one

occasion there was an election in town. There had been many threats that

the party of disorder would import section hands from the neighboring

railway stations to down our side. I did not reach Medora, the forlorn

little cattle town which was our county seat, until the election was

well under way. I then asked one of my friends if there had been any

disorder. Bill Jones was standing by. "Disorder hell!" said my friend.

"Bill Jones just stood there with one hand on his gun and the other

pointing over toward the new jail whenever any man who didn't have a

right to vote came near the polls. There was only one of them tried to

vote, and Bill knocked him down. Lord!" added my friend, meditatively,

"the way that man fell!" "Well," struck in Bill Jones, "if he hadn't

fell I'd have walked round behind him to see what was propping him up!"

In the days when I lived on the ranch I usually spent most of the

winter in the East, and when I returned in the early spring I was always

interested in finding out what had happened since my departure. On one

occasion I was met by Bill Jones and Sylvane Ferris, and in the course

of our conversation they mentioned "the lunatic." This led to a question

on my part, and Sylvane Ferris began the story: "Well, you see, he was

on a train and he shot the newsboy. At first they weren't going to do

anything to him, for they thought he just had it in for the newsboy. But

then somebody said, 'Why, he's plumb crazy, and he's liable to shoot any

of us!' and then they threw him off the train. It was here at Medora,

and they asked if anybody would take care of him, and Bill Jones said he

would, because he was the sheriff and the jail had two rooms, and he was

living in one and would put the lunatic in the other." Here Bill Jones

interrupted: "Yes, and more fool me! I wouldn't take charge of another

lunatic if the whole county asked me. Why" (with the air of a man

announcing an astounding discovery), "that lunatic didn't have his right

senses! He wouldn't eat, till me and Snyder got him down on the shavings

and made him eat." Snyder was a huge, happy-go-lucky, kind-hearted

Pennsylvania Dutchman, and was Bill Jones's chief deputy. Bill

continued: "You know, Snyder's soft-hearted, he is. Well, he'd think

that lunatic looked peaked, and he'd take him out for an airing. Then

the boys would get joshing him as to how much start he could give him

over the prairie and catch him again." Apparently the amount of the

start given the lunatic depended upon the amount of the bet to which the

joshing led up. I asked Bill what he would have done if Snyder hadn't

caught the lunatic. This was evidently a new idea, and he responded that

Snyder always did catch him. "Well, but suppose he hadn't caught him?"

"Well," said Bill Jones, "if Snyder hadn't caught the lunatic, I'd have

whaled hell out of Snyder!"

Under these circumstances Snyder ran his best and always did catch the

patient. It must not be gathered from this that the lunatic was badly

treated. He was well treated. He become greatly attached to both Bill

Jones and Snyder, and he objected strongly when, after the frontier

theory of treatment of the insane had received a full trial, he was

finally sent off to the territorial capital. It was merely that all the

relations of life in that place and day were so managed as to give ample

opportunity for the expression of individuality, whether in sheriff or

ranchman. The local practical joker once attempted to have some fun at

the expense of the lunatic, and Bill Jones described the result. "You

know Bixby, don't you? Well," with deep disapproval, "Bixby thinks he

is funny, he does. He'd come and he'd wake that lunatic up at night, and

I'd have to get up and soothe him. I fixed Bixby all right, though. I

fastened a rope on the latch, and next time Bixby came I let the lunatic

out on him. He 'most bit Bixby's nose off. I learned Bixby!"

Bill Jones had been unconventional in other relations besides that of

sheriff. He once casually mentioned to me that he had served on the

police force of Bismarck, but he had left because he "beat the Mayor

over the head with his gun one day." He added: "The Mayor, he didn't

mind it, but the Superintendent of Police said he guessed I'd better

resign." His feeling, obviously, was that the Superintendent of Police

was a martinet, unfit to take large views of life.

It was while with Bill Jones that I first made acquaintance with Seth

Bullock. Seth was at that time sheriff in the Black Hills district, and

a man he had wanted--a horse thief--I finally got, I being at the time

deputy sheriff two or three hundred miles to the north. The man went by

a nickname which I will call "Crazy Steve"; a year or two afterwards

I received a letter asking about him from his uncle, a thoroughly

respectable man in a Western State; and later this uncle and I met at

Washington when I was President and he a United States Senator. It

was some time after "Steve's" capture that I went down to Deadwood on

business, Sylvane Ferris and I on horseback, while Bill Jones drove the

wagon. At a little town, Spearfish, I think, after crossing the last

eighty or ninety miles of gumbo prairies, we met Seth Bullock. We had

had rather a rough trip, and had lain out for a fortnight, so I suppose

we looked somewhat unkempt. Seth received us with rather distant

courtesy at first, but unbent when he found out who we were, remarking,

"You see, by your looks I thought you were some kind of a tin-horn

gambling outfit, and that I might have to keep an eye on you!" He then

inquired after the capture of "Steve"--with a little of the air of

one sportsman when another has shot a quail that either might have

claimed--"My bird, I believe?" Later Seth Bullock became, and has ever

since remained, one of my stanchest and most valued friends. He served

as Marshal for South Dakota under me as President. When, after the close

of my term, I went to Africa, on getting back to Europe I cabled Seth

Bullock to bring over Mrs. Bullock and meet me in London, which he did;

by that time I felt that I just had to meet my own people, who spoke my

neighborhood dialect.

When serving as deputy sheriff I was impressed with the advantage the

officer of the law has over ordinary wrong-doers, provided he thoroughly

knows his own mind. There are exceptional outlaws, men with a price on

their heads and of remarkable prowess, who are utterly indifferent to

taking life, and whose warfare against society is as open as that of a

savage on the war-path. The law officer has no advantage whatever over

these men save what his own prowess may--or may not--give him. Such a

man was Billy the Kid, the notorious man-killer and desperado of New

Mexico, who was himself finally slain by a friend of mine, Pat Garrett,

whom, when I was President, I made collector of customs at El Paso.

But the ordinary criminal, even when murderously inclined, feels just a

moment's hesitation as to whether he cares to kill an officer of the

law engaged in his duty. I took in more than one man who was probably a

better man than I was with both rifle and revolver; but in each case I

knew just what I wanted to do, and, like David Harum, I "did it first,"

whereas the fraction of a second that the other man hesitated put him in

a position where it was useless for him to resist.

I owe more than I can ever express to the West, which of course means to

the men and women I met in the West. There were a few people of bad type

in my neighborhood--that would be true of every group of men, even in a

theological seminary--but I could not speak with too great affection and

respect of the great majority of my friends, the hard-working men and

women who dwelt for a space of perhaps a hundred and fifty miles along

the Little Missouri. I was always as welcome at their houses as they

were at mine. Everybody worked, everybody was willing to help everybody

else, and yet nobody asked any favors. The same thing was true of the

people whom I got to know fifty miles east and fifty miles west of my

own range, and of the men I met on the round-ups. They soon accepted me

as a friend and fellow-worker who stood on an equal footing with them,

and I believe the most of them have kept their feeling for me ever

since. No guests were ever more welcome at the White House than these

old friends of the cattle ranches and the cow camps--the men with whom

I had ridden the long circle and eaten at the tail-board of a

chuck-wagon--whenever they turned up at Washington during my Presidency.

I remember one of them who appeared at Washington one day just before

lunch, a huge, powerful man who, when I knew him, had been distinctly a

fighting character. It happened that on that day another old friend,

the British Ambassador, Mr. Bryce, was among those coming to lunch. Just

before we went in I turned to my cow-puncher friend and said to him with

great solemnity, "Remember, Jim, that if you shot at the feet of the

British Ambassador to make him dance, it would be likely to cause

international complications"; to which Jim responded with unaffected

horror, "Why, Colonel, I shouldn't think of it, I shouldn't think of

it!"

Not only did the men and women whom I met in the cow country quite

unconsciously help me, by the insight which working and living with them

enabled me to get into the mind and soul of the average American of the

right type, but they helped me in another way. I made up my mind that

the men were of just the kind whom it would be well to have with me if

ever it became necessary to go to war. When the Spanish War came, I gave

this thought practical realization.

Fortunately, Wister and Remington, with pen and pencil, have made these

men live as long as our literature lives. I have sometimes been asked

if Wister's "Virginian" is not overdrawn; why, one of the men I have

mentioned in this chapter was in all essentials the Virginian in real

life, not only in his force but in his charm. Half of the men I worked

with or played with and half of the men who soldiered with me afterwards

in my regiment might have walked out of Wister's stories or Remington's

pictures.

There were bad characters in the Western country at that time, of

course, and under the conditions of life they were probably more

dangerous than they would have been elsewhere. I hardly ever had any

difficulty, however. I never went into a saloon, and in the little

hotels I kept out of the bar-room unless, as sometimes happened, the

bar-room was the only room on the lower floor except the dining-room. I

always endeavored to keep out of a quarrel until self-respect forbade

my making any further effort to avoid it, and I very rarely had even the

semblance of trouble.

Of course amusing incidents occurred now and then. Usually these took

place when I was hunting lost horses, for in hunting lost horses I was

ordinarily alone, and occasionally had to travel a hundred or a hundred

and fifty miles away from my own country. On one such occasion I

reached a little cow town long after dark, stabled my horse in an empty

outbuilding, and when I reached the hotel was informed in response to my

request for a bed that I could have the last one left, as there was only

one other man in it. The room to which I was shown contained two double

beds; one contained two men fast asleep, and the other only one man,

also asleep. This man proved to be a friend, one of the Bill Joneses

whom I have previously mentioned. I undressed according to the fashion

of the day and place, that is, I put my trousers, boots, shaps, and

gun down beside the bed, and turned in. A couple of hours later I was

awakened by the door being thrown open and a lantern flashed in my face,

the light gleaming on the muzzle of a cocked .45. Another man said to

the lantern-bearer, "It ain't him"; the next moment my bedfellow was

covered with two guns, and addressed, "Now, Bill, don't make a fuss,

but come along quiet." "I'm not thinking of making a fuss," said Bill.

"That's right," was the answer; "we're your friends; we don't want to

hurt you; we just want you to come along, you know why." And Bill pulled

on his trousers and boots and walked out with them. Up to this

time there had not been a sound from the other bed. Now a match was

scratched, a candle lit, and one of the men in the other bed looked

round the room. At this point I committed the breach of etiquette of

asking questions. "I wonder why they took Bill," I said. There was no

answer, and I repeated, "I wonder why they took Bill." "Well," said the

man with the candle, dryly, "I reckon they wanted him," and with that

he blew out the candle and conversation ceased. Later I discovered that

Bill in a fit of playfulness had held up the Northern Pacific train at

a near-by station by shooting at the feet of the conductor to make him

dance. This was purely a joke on Bill's part, but the Northern Pacific

people possessed a less robust sense of humor, and on their complaint

the United States Marshal was sent after Bill, on the ground that by

delaying the train he had interfered with the mails.

The only time I ever had serious trouble was at an even more primitive

little hotel than the one in question. It was also on an occasion when

I was out after lost horses. Below the hotel had merely a bar-room, a

dining-room, and a lean-to kitchen; above was a loft with fifteen or

twenty beds in it. It was late in the evening when I reached the place.

I heard one or two shots in the bar-room as I came up, and I disliked

going in. But there was nowhere else to go, and it was a cold night.

Inside the room were several men, who, including the bartender, were

wearing the kind of smile worn by men who are making believe to like

what they don't like. A shabby individual in a broad hat with a cocked

gun in each hand was walking up and down the floor talking with strident

profanity. He had evidently been shooting at the clock, which had two or

three holes in its face.

He was not a "bad man" of the really dangerous type, the true man-killer

type, but he was an objectionable creature, a would-be bad man, a bully

who for the moment was having things all his own way. As soon as he saw

me he hailed me as "Four eyes," in reference to my spectacles, and said,

"Four eyes is going to treat." I joined in the laugh and got behind the

stove and sat down, thinking to escape notice. He followed me, however,

and though I tried to pass it off as a jest this merely made him more

offensive, and he stood leaning over me, a gun in each hand, using very

foul language. He was foolish to stand so near, and, moreover, his heels

were close together, so that his position was unstable. Accordingly, in

response to his reiterated command that I should set up the drinks, I

said, "Well, if I've got to, I've got to," and rose, looking past him.

As I rose, I struck quick and hard with my right just to one side of the

point of his jaw, hitting with my left as I straightened out, and then

again with my right. He fired the guns, but I do not know whether this

was merely a convulsive action of his hands or whether he was trying to

shoot at me. When he went down he struck the corner of the bar with his

head. It was not a case in which one could afford to take chances, and

if he had moved I was about to drop on his ribs with my knees; but he

was senseless. I took away his guns, and the other people in the room,

who were now loud in their denunciation of him, hustled him out and put

him in a shed. I got dinner as soon as possible, sitting in a corner

of the dining-room away from the windows, and then went upstairs to bed

where it was dark so that there would be no chance of any one shooting

at me from the outside. However, nothing happened. When my assailant

came to, he went down to the station and left on a freight.

As I have said, most of the men of my regiment were just such men as

those I knew in the ranch country; indeed, some of my ranch friends were

in the regiment--Fred Herrig, the forest ranger, for instance, in whose

company I shot my biggest mountain ram. After the regiment was disbanded

the careers of certain of the men were diversified by odd incidents. Our

relations were of the friendliest, and, as they explained, they felt

"as if I was a father" to them. The manifestations of this feeling were

sometimes less attractive than the phrase sounded, as it was chiefly

used by the few who were behaving like very bad children indeed. The

great majority of the men when the regiment disbanded took up the

business of their lives where they had dropped it a few months

previously, and these men merely tried to help me or help one another

as the occasion arose; no man ever had more cause to be proud of his

regiment than I had of mine, both in war and in peace. But there was

a minority among them who in certain ways were unsuited for a life of

peaceful regularity, although often enough they had been first-class

soldiers.

It was from these men that letters came with a stereotyped opening which

always caused my heart to sink--"Dear Colonel: I write you because I am

in trouble." The trouble might take almost any form. One correspondent

continued: "I did not take the horse, but they say I did." Another

complained that his mother-in-law had put him in jail for bigamy. In

the case of another the incident was more markworthy. I will call him

Gritto. He wrote me a letter beginning: "Dear Colonel: I write you

because I am in trouble. I have shot a lady in the eye. But, Colonel,

I was not shooting at the lady. I was shooting at my wife," which he

apparently regarded as a sufficient excuse as between men of the world.

I answered that I drew the line at shooting at ladies, and did not hear

any more of the incident for several years.

Then, while I was President, a member of the regiment, Major Llewellyn,

who was Federal District Attorney under me in New Mexico, wrote me a

letter filled, as his letters usually were, with bits of interesting

gossip about the comrades. It ran in part as follows: "Since I last

wrote you Comrade Ritchie has killed a man in Colorado. I understand

that the comrade was playing a poker game, and the man sat into the game

and used such language that Comrade Ritchie had to shoot. Comrade Webb

has killed two men in Beaver, Arizona. Comrade Webb is in the Forest

Service, and the killing was in the line of professional duty. I was out

at the penitentiary the other day and saw Comrade Gritto, who, you may

remember, was put there for shooting his sister-in-law [this was the

first information I had had as to the identity of the lady who was shot

in the eye]. Since he was in there Comrade Boyne has run off to old

Mexico with his (Gritto's) wife, and the people of Grant County think he

ought to be let out." Evidently the sporting instincts of the people of

Grant County had been roused, and they felt that, as Comrade Boyne had

had a fair start, the other comrade should be let out in order to see

what would happen.

The men of the regiment always enthusiastically helped me when I was

running for office. On one occasion Buck Taylor, of Texas, accompanied

me on a trip and made a speech for me. The crowd took to his speech from

the beginning and so did I, until the peroration, which ran as follows:

"My fellow-citizens, vote for my Colonel! vote for my Colonel! _and he

will lead you, as he led us, like sheep to the slaughter_!" This hardly

seemed a tribute to my military skill; but it delighted the crowd, and

as far as I could tell did me nothing but good.

On another tour, when I was running for Vice-President, a member of

the regiment who was along on the train got into a discussion with

a Populist editor who had expressed an unfavorable estimate of my

character, and in the course of the discussion shot the editor--not

fatally. We had to leave him to be tried, and as he had no money I

left him $150 to hire counsel--having borrowed the money from Senator

Wolcott, of Colorado, who was also with me. After election I received

from my friend a letter running: "Dear Colonel: I find I will not have

to use that $150 you lent me, as we have elected our candidate for

District Attorney. So I have used it to settle a horse transaction in

which I unfortunately became involved." A few weeks later, however, I

received a heartbroken letter setting forth the fact that the District

Attorney--whom he evidently felt to be a cold-blooded formalist--had

put him in jail. Then the affair dropped out of sight until two or three

years later, when as President I visited a town in another State,

and the leaders of the delegation which received me included both my

correspondent and the editor, now fast friends, and both of them ardent

supporters of mine.

At one of the regimental reunions a man, who had been an excellent

soldier, in greeting me mentioned how glad he was that the judge had let

him out in time to get to the reunion. I asked what was the matter, and

he replied with some surprise: "Why, Colonel, don't you know I had

a difficulty with a gentleman, and . . . er . . . well, I killed the

gentleman. But you can see that the judge thought it was all right or he

wouldn't have let me go." Waiving the latter point, I said: "How did it

happen? How did you do it?" Misinterpreting my question as showing

an interest only in the technique of the performance, the ex-puncher

replied: "With a .38 on a .45 frame, Colonel." I chuckled over the

answer, and it became proverbial with my family and some of my friends,

including Seth Bullock. When I was shot at Milwaukee, Seth Bullock wired

an inquiry to which I responded that it was all right, that the weapon

was merely "a .38 on a .45 frame." The telegram in some way became

public, and puzzled outsiders. By the way, both the men of my regiment

and the friends I had made in the old days in the West were themselves a

little puzzled at the interest shown in my making my speech after being

shot. This was what they expected, what they accepted as the right thing

for a man to do under the circumstances, a thing the non-performance of

which would have been discreditable rather than the performance being

creditable. They would not have expected a man to leave a battle, for

instance, because of being wounded in such fashion; and they saw no

reason why he should abandon a less important and less risky duty.

One of the best soldiers of my regiment was a huge man whom I made

marshal of a Rocky Mountain State. He had spent his hot and lusty youth

on the frontier during its viking age, and at that time had naturally

taken part in incidents which seemed queer to men "accustomed to die

decently of zymotic diseases." I told him that an effort would doubtless

be made to prevent his confirmation by the Senate, and therefore that

I wanted to know all the facts in his case. Had he played faro? He had;

but it was when everybody played faro, and he had never played a brace

game. Had he killed anybody? Yes, but it was in Dodge City on occasions

when he was deputy marshal or town marshal, at a time when Dodge City,

now the most peaceful of communities, was the toughest town on the

continent, and crowded with man-killing outlaws and road agents; and he

produced telegrams from judges of high character testifying to the need

of the actions he had taken. Finally I said: "Now, Ben, how did you

lose that half of your ear?" To which, looking rather shy, he responded:

"Well, Colonel, it was bit off." "How did it happen, Ben?" "Well, you

see, I was sent to arrest a gentleman, and him and me mixed it up, and

he bit off my ear." "What did you do to the gentleman, Ben?" And Ben,

looking more coy than ever, responded: "Well, Colonel, we broke about

even!" I forebore to inquire what variety of mayhem he had committed on

the "gentleman." After considerable struggle I got him confirmed by

the Senate, and he made one of the best marshals in the entire service,

exactly as he had already made one of the best soldiers in the regiment;

and I never wish to see a better citizen, nor a man in whom I would more

implicitly trust in every way.

When, in 1900, I was nominated for Vice-President, I was sent by the

National Committee on a trip into the States of the high plains and the

Rocky Mountains. These had all gone overwhelmingly for Mr. Bryan on

the free-silver issue four years previously, and it was thought that I,

because of my knowledge of and acquaintanceship with the people, might

accomplish something towards bringing them back into line. It was

an interesting trip, and the monotony usually attendant upon such a

campaign of political speaking was diversified in vivid fashion by

occasional hostile audiences. One or two of the meetings ended in riots.

One meeting was finally broken up by a mob; everybody fought so that the

speaking had to stop. Soon after this we reached another town where we

were told there might be trouble. Here the local committee included an

old and valued friend, a "two-gun" man of repute, who was not in the

least quarrelsome, but who always kept his word. We marched round to

the local opera-house, which was packed with a mass of men, many of them

rather rough-looking. My friend the two-gun man sat immediately behind

me, a gun on each hip, his arms folded, looking at the audience; fixing

his gaze with instant intentness on any section of the house from which

there came so much as a whisper. The audience listened to me with

rapt attention. At the end, with a pride in my rhetorical powers which

proceeded from a misunderstanding of the situation, I remarked to the

chairman: "I held that audience well; there wasn't an interruption." To

which the chairman replied: "Interruption? Well, I guess not! Seth had

sent round word that if any son of a gun peeped he'd kill him!"

There was one bit of frontier philosophy which I should like to see

imitated in more advanced communities. Certain crimes of revolting

baseness and cruelty were never forgiven. But in the case of ordinary

offenses, the man who had served his term and who then tried to make

good was given a fair chance; and of course this was equally true of

the women. Every one who has studied the subject at all is only too

well aware that the world offsets the readiness with which it condones

a crime for which a man escapes punishment, by its unforgiving

relentlessness to the often far less guilty man who _is_ punished,

and who therefore has made his atonement. On the frontier, if the man

honestly tried to behave himself there was generally a disposition to

give him fair play and a decent show. Several of the men I knew and whom

I particularly liked came in this class. There was one such man in my

regiment, a man who had served a term for robbery under arms, and who

had atoned for it by many years of fine performance of duty. I put him

in a high official position, and no man under me rendered better service

to the State, nor was there any man whom, as soldier, as civil officer,

as citizen, and as friend, I valued and respected--and now value and

respect--more.

Now I suppose some good people will gather from this that I favor men

who commit crimes. I certainly do not favor them. I have not a

particle of sympathy with the sentimentality--as I deem it, the

mawkishness--which overflows with foolish pity for the criminal and

cares not at all for the victim of the criminal. I am glad to see

wrong-doers punished. The punishment is an absolute necessity from the

standpoint of society; and I put the reformation of the criminal second

to the welfare of society. But I do desire to see the man or woman

who has paid the penalty and who wishes to reform given a helping

hand--surely every one of us who knows his own heart must know that he

too may stumble, and should be anxious to help his brother or sister who

has stumbled. When the criminal has been punished, if he then shows a

sincere desire to lead a decent and upright life, he should be given the

chance, he should be helped and not hindered; and if he makes good, he

should receive that respect from others which so often aids in creating

self-respect--the most invaluable of all possessions.

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