CHAPTER VII

TYPES OF ALPINE PEAKS

In a previous chapter reference has been made to the varied types of

scenery which belong to different divisions of the Alpine chain, and the

briefest kind of characterisation of those varieties was attempted. But

the Alps, and indeed almost all the great snow ranges of the world,

possess side by side within a single neighbourhood varieties of peaks

sufficiently divergent to be capable of grouping and classification. For

example, in the Mont Blanc group, there are domes of snow, needle-points

of rock, areted pyramids, serrated ridges, peaks twinned together, peaks

closely grouped in larger number, and other varieties of mountains. In

fact, just as whole districts of mountains possess, each one, an

individual character due to their geographical position, their local

history of uplift and denudation, the materials of which they are

formed, and other such factors, so individual peaks for like reasons

possess individual character, and conform more or less evidently to one

or another well-marked type. That such is the case will be readily

admitted. In common talk, indeed, we are accustomed to attribute

fancifully to this mountain masculine ruggedness, to that feminine

grace, to another qualities of terror. Some mountains attract to

themselves a kind of human affection; others repel; yet others bore, or,

on the contrary, interest without charming. In the present chapter,

therefore, I intend to discuss the characters of mountains, especially

of the great Alpine peaks, from this point of view, considering so far

as space permits the characters and dispositions of all sorts and

conditions of Alps.

It will be perceived at once that the treatment of our subject will

entirely depend on the point of view from which we regard it. Mountains

are not beasts and possess no real characters. It is only we who, with

our anthropomorphic tendency, endow them with imaginary qualities

belonging actually to ourselves and projected forth from us on to the

so-called external world. If mountains are primarily thought of as

things to be climbed, we shall characterise them as they react upon the

climber. If they are regarded as sights to be beheld, we shall

characterise them as they affect our sense of vision. A climber may

fancifully figure one mountain as friendly though severe, another as

hostile, a third as mean, a fourth as recondite, a fifth as deceitful.

Climbers, however, though I hope I may number some of them amongst my

readers, are not primarily those for whom this book is written. It is

aimed more broadly to interest the mountain-lover of whatever age or sex

and whatever agility or endurance. I testify here, not so much of what I

know, but of what I have seen and found delightful in the seeing, in

hopes to revive recollections of pleasure in others and to suggest the

possibility of further joys to the mountain traveller.

Pre-eminent, then, to look at, pre-eminent as a mountain vision, one

must, I assert, rank the great domes of snow, such as Mont Blanc. The

two greatest Alpine mountains assume that form when beheld from

characteristic points of view, sufficiently remote, and, of course, it

is the apparent form only that here concerns us. A peak may actually be

a blade of rock, snow-whitened, and yet may appear to be a dome, as the

Lyskamm appears from north and south. It must be ranked amongst domes

when so beheld. On these giant masses Nature frequently bestows a

measurable pre-eminence, for it is not only in the Alps that they attain

loftiest altitudes among their neighbours. Elburz which reigns over the

Caucasus is a dome, so is Chimborazo, so likewise Nanga Parbat. But even

if they were not actually piled higher than their satellites they would

look bigger.

A notable instance of the great dignity of effect of a snow dome beheld

amongst more rugged and precipitous peaks--peaks, moreover, much loftier

than the dome--was forced upon my notice in the Baltoro region of the

Mustagh mountains of Kashmir. The Baltoro glacier, most wonderfully

situated of all glaciers in the world, is surrounded by the greatest

group of high peaks known to exist. A number of them exceed 25,000 feet

in altitude, and several are over 27,000 feet. Moreover, most of these

great mountains are of bold outline and precipitous structure. There is

no deceit about them. They look their height. Some of them are

needle-pointed and buttressed by the narrowest rock ridges, set with

needle-pointed teeth. It would be imagined that no mountain forms could

be more impressive than theirs, as one after another they come within

range of the traveller's vision and grow familiar to him during the long

days of his creeping advance along their feet. Impressive indeed they

are, splendid beyond words, majestic surpassingly.

It happens, however, that, amongst them all a solitary exception, there

stands a single dome of snow, named by me the Golden Throne. I first

beheld it somewhat dramatically, when, after climbing to a high

elevation by night, the sun rose behind it, and it was revealed in all

its width, flanked on either hand by a long line of jagged and aspiring

peaks. They were higher than it--most of them considerably higher, yet

beyond all question the dome was the most dignified of them all. It owed

something of its dignity and distinction, no doubt, to contrast, to the

rarity of its form in that region of splintered aiguilles; but that was

not alone the cause. The suavity and continuous curvature of its

outline, and the grace of it, as well as its greater breadth and

apparent relative volume, made the Golden Throne absolutely, as well as

by contrast, more dignified than its bolder neighbours. Had it differed

from them only in form it would have prevailed, but it differed more

noticeably from them in drapery and colour. Whereas they were of naked

rock, it was enveloped in a mantle of purest snow, and the broad white

mass (especially later when it shone in the advancing daylight) attained

a pre-eminence in brightness and purity for which no ruggedness or

precipitancy in the others could compensate.

It is a far cry to the Golden Throne, but Mont Blanc is near at hand,

and its aspect is familiar to countless people. None will deny that its

reputation is pre-eminent among Alps. I claim that that pre-eminence is

not solely due to its culminating position in point of size, but that

its broad white mass and shining amplitude go a long way towards

accounting for it. It would scarcely occur to any one but a climber to

depose Mont Blanc from the first place--Mont Blanc, the "monarch of

mountains," diademed with snow. As in human architecture the dome is the

most dignified and impressive form, so also it is in nature. In Mont

Blanc it attains perfection by the noble breadth of its base and

adjustment of its buttresses. Whencesoever beheld, from north or south,

from far or near, it always appears poised aloft in a dignity as

impressive as it is reposeful, the white sheen of its spotless snows

pure as the bosom of a summer cloud, but unlike that, gifted with an

aspect of adamantine permanence.

[Illustration: 38. THE MATTERHORN, TWILIGHT.

"The time may come when the Matterhorn shall

have passed away, and nothing save a heap of shapeless

fragments will mark the spot where the great

mountain stood; for, atom by atom, inch by inch,

and yard by yard, it yields to forces which nothing can

withstand. That time is far distant; and ages hence,

generations unborn will gaze upon its awful precipices,

and wonder at its unique form. However

exalted may be their ideas, and however exaggerated

their expectations, none will come to return disappointed!"--WHYMPER.

]

Next to Mont Blanc in abiding reputation, the Matterhorn takes rank

among Alps by universal consent. We may regard it as the best example of

pyramidal mountains. Four-square it stands upon its mighty base,

fronting the four cardinal points of the compass, each face divided from

its neighbour by a clearly-defined ridge or rock arete. As Mont Blanc

the dome, so the Matterhorn in turn displays a form adopted by man for

some of his grandest architectural efforts, the pyramids of Egypt. If

the dome best expresses the idea of soaring aloft, when seen from

without, the pyramid best expresses the idea of eternal repose and

endurance without end. Geologists may tell us that even the Matterhorn

is a passing phenomenon, that the frosts are daily causing it to

disintegrate, and that thousands of tons of rock fall at frequent

intervals down its sides. Climbers may describe its near aspect as

ruinous, and we may know these statements to be true. None the less the

mountain beheld as a whole, from even a moderate distance, seems to

belie them. It appears to be from everlasting and to everlasting. It

incorporates the ideal of permanence. We conceive it as belonging not to

an age but to all time. Were it mathematically four-square, and its

faces true planes of even slope, that would be its chief effect, that

and the sense of mass and grandeur inseparable from an object of such

visibly huge dimensions. But Nature has fashioned it subtly and endowed

its faces and ridges with curves most delicate and refined. To its

appearance of mass and endurance it adds a grace so exquisite, an uplift

so imposing, that these qualities almost take the first place in the

impression produced upon the beholder. Seen from the north-east it

appears to best advantage. Towards Breuil it shows a more massive front.

Its recondite western face, only visible from high snow-fields, displays

precipices more appalling and a general aspect of more savage grandeur.

But with singular good fortune for the unathletic traveller, it

manifests its incomparable grace to perfection towards the easily

accessible north-east, and 50,000 people go there annually to worship at

its Riffel shrines. They may approach with no more devotional feeling

than the average pilgrim manifests at Lourdes, but the fact that they go

is homage to the reality of the emotion which many have actually felt in

that glorious presence. The poetic brain has exhausted itself in efforts

to find comparisons with living creatures whereby to describe it. Best

is Ruskin's choice of a rearing horse. Traces of the neck clothed with

thunder, of the mane-fringed crest with cloud streamers for hair, even

of the sharp contrasting angle of the folded fore-leg, can be traced in

the natural composition; but it is rather the might and spirit of the

thing--its combination of wildness, force, and grace--that give aptness

to this fetch of similitude.

In writing of the Matterhorn one can make an assumption that would be

impossible with any other mountain:--that most readers can recall a

vision of its form to their minds. Let me make that demand upon the

present reader. Observe then how beautifully the double curve of the

left hand or Theodule ridge, first convex, then concave, is terminated

and contrasted with the sudden jags of the shoulder, and then taken up

and continued again convex to the summit. How the right-hand or Stockje

ridge, convex above, drops with a larger sweep and a more astounding

ultimate steepness, to be again interrupted by a lower and more jagged

shoulder, and again continued downward by the magnificent white convex

curve, which, in its turn drooping into concave, leads the eye away to

the broad foundation. No less essential than the outline to the total

effect are the two white _neve_ basins that lie below the faces and

steepen upwards to ice-slopes leading to crags that have all the

appearance of cliffs. The importance to the composition of the third or

middle shoulder--_the_ Shoulder _par excellence_ of climbers--should

also be insisted on, but space does not here admit a lengthier analysis.

The reader will find no difficulty in pursuing the investigation for

himself.

[Illustration: 39. WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN FROM FIESCHERALP.]

The four-sided pyramid, of which we have chosen the Matterhorn for

type, is a rarer form than the three-sided, perhaps the commonest class

of fully developed peak. Here again there cannot be a moment's

hesitation in the choice of a representative mountain, for of such the

Weisshorn is beyond question the finest and most famous in the Alps.

What mountain-lover has not beheld it, towering gracefully and superbly

aloft before him as he descended the upper reaches of the Rhone valley

on some bright August day? Westward it opposes a face of rock and is a

less gorgeous object to look upon. But its other two faces with their

glacial robe are brilliant under all illuminations. What gives it

distinction among the multitude of mountains similarly formed is the

grace of its slender and long drawn-out ridges. Each of these sharp

aretes, beheld from most points of view, drops very steeply from the

spear-tipped summit; then gradually levels off to a shoulder, and so

leads the eye down to the massive foundation that supports the whole.

Slenderness above, massive strength below--such is the effective

contrast that Nature provides.

Another famous peak, the Jungfrau, appears from Interlaken almost as

graceful as the Weisshorn; but its beauty is really of another order,

and depends far more upon the brilliancy of the curdled surface of the

snow, and its division between ice-falls, rocks, and ice-slopes, than

upon the outline of the peak itself or the form of its ridges. For pure

grace of pyramidal form the Aletschhorn surpasses the Jungfrau, but the

better-known peak has advantages of position and of grouping to which we

shall presently refer.

Pyramidal peaks lend themselves kindly to embellishment by banners of

cloud. Often we behold great sheets of white mist waving away from their

ridges. The sharp definition and marble-like permanence of the mountain

forms an admirable offset to the softness and inconstancy of the cloud,

which is not merely ever varying the form of its outlines, but is

throughout in constant and often swift motion under the dominion of a

furious gale. The sense of violent agitation high aloft thus impressed

upon the eye, well associates itself with an idea of rugged resistance

proper to high peaks and splintered ridges. The slenderer the pyramid

and the sharper its aretes, so much the better does it serve as

flagstaff for a flying cloud.

Best of all, however, for this purpose are the rock aiguilles, which

never seem quite complete, never fully manifest the astonishing boldness

of their structure, except when they are in turn concealed and revealed

by mists that form and fade and form again--now cutting them off from

all visible connection with the earth and almost seeming to lift them

into the heavens, now half-hiding them and half-revealing, now as it

were smoking away from their summits like steam from a volcano, now

offering a white background to their rugged mass, now overshrouding and

empurpling them with shadows stolen from the wardrobe of Night. They

lack the dignity of the broader peaks, these needle rocks, and few of

them really deserve (save from a climber's standpoint) to be called

peaks at all. Generally they are only buttress pinnacles of greater

mountain masses. Yet a tall and well-planted aiguille always possesses

marked individuality of its own, which more than compensates for lack of

volume and altitude. By its form it attracts the attention of the eye

away from large but less wonder-evoking mountains. Thus it makes itself

the centre of a view and is remembered when its larger neighbours are

forgotten. More than any other kind of peak an aiguille depends for

effect upon the character of its foundation and the place where it is

planted. The Aiguille du Geant is, perhaps, the most remarkable monolith

shaft in the Alps, and has attained no little fame. But its fame is due

to the difficulty of scrambling up it. For sheer impressiveness of

effect from a distance it cannot enter into serious competition with the

Aiguille du Dru. The actual summit-shaft of the Dru is not really

remarkable for slenderness. Its sides are not the plumb vertical cliffs

that the Geant can show. But the foundations of the Dru carry its lines

down, and the supporting masses seem expressly piled together for no

other purpose than to lift the slender-seeming peak as far aloft as

possible. The Dru, moreover, though actually an appanage of the Verte,

is so situated as to be seen alone and admirably set off by glacier or

wooded foregrounds from several easily accessible and convenient

positions. Instead of standing aloof like the Geant, it peers down into

the valley and takes an interest in human affairs. It is there to signal

the sunset with its flaming beacon, and to glow like a brand from the

furnace in the presence of the dawn. The departing traveller turns back

to it for a last look, and the returning votary of the Alps is impatient

to pass the corner beyond which he well knows that it will come into

view. It is one of a class, the aiguilles of Chamonix, but it possesses

a marked individuality of aspect and it transcends all its neighbours

and rivals. They may be harder to climb, but it _looks_ as precipitous

and inaccessible as any, and, after all, the appearance is the essential

element for a lover of the picturesque. There is much more that might be

said about aiguilles, their value for contrast with other forms, their

essentially subordinate, almost parasitic, character, and so forth, but

our space has narrow limits and we must pass on.

[Illustration: 40. AIGUILLE VERTE AND AIGUILLE DU DRU FROM THE

CHAMONIX VALLEY. A well-known group, typical of the Aiguilles of the

Mont Blanc chain.]

We have considered domes and pyramids in special reference to their

outline. But they and all sorts of other mountains have faces as well as

bounding ridges, and these faces sometimes take the form of tremendous

walls. We may therefore devote a moment's attention to mountain walls,

or rather to what we may briefly describe as wall-faced mountains. These

great walls are not necessarily, nor indeed often, truly precipitous,

but the important point about them is that they look precipitous. They

are not walls, but the eye is deceived into believing that they are. The

Alps are rich in noble examples of this type. To name only the most

famous: there are the Italian fronts of Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, the

Saas front of the Mischabelhoerner, and the north face of the Jungfrau.

If you stand in a suitable position, facing rather than enfilading any

of these great walls, their slope seems practically vertical. Climbers

know that they can all be climbed; their instructed eyes can even trace

the routes without difficulty. In so far as that knowledge interferes

with the imposing impression which ordinary persons derive from the mere

look of the thing, it is a misfortune. Yet even the climber can

sometimes forget his _metier_, and lose himself in pure contemplation of

Nature's splendour. It is nowhere easier so to do than in face of these

gigantic walls. Pre-eminent amongst them is, of course, the Macugnaga

face of Monte Rosa. Not merely does it excel in unbroken width and

continuity of plunge, but its striping by buttress and couloir, its

impending masses of serac, its huge piles of avalanche ruins below, and

the frequency of the falls that take place, whose fresh traces are

obvious even when they are not beheld in actual descent, all serve to

increase the observer's sense of the actual steepness of the face. First

beheld from near at hand, the vast size of the thing overwhelms the

beholder, and yet this first impression is small compared with the

ultimate sense of size which slowly grows within him as he gazes and

learns the meaning of the details. His attention will soon be called to

the fact that the whole face is ruled with lines. They seem fine, almost

like the meshes of a spider's web, but a brief consideration proves that

they are the tracks of falling masses--some of avalanches, others of

falling stones. They are not fine lines at all, but deep grooves,

perhaps ten feet wide and as deep as the height of a man. Realise that

fact, as the climber does (in so doing he in his turn has the

advantage), and you at once magnify, and may even overmagnify, the scale

of the view.

[Illustration: 41. BODEN AND GORNER GLACIERS. Monte Rosa from the

Schwarzsee. The last gleam of the daylight. The foot of the Riffelhorn

on the left.]

It is a commonplace to proclaim the exhaustless prodigality of

Nature's inventions, which every field of grass sufficiently proves, and

yet it always seems to me that these great faces specially exemplify it.

How easy, one might imagine, to invent detail for a precipice of ice and

rock--but take a blank sheet of paper and try; you will find the task

almost hopeless. Then turn to any view of Monte Rosa from Macugnaga and

observe how it has been done, and how much, indeed how entirely, the

effect of the view depends upon the structure and variety of the wall.

The classical point whence the face is seen at its best is the Pizzo

Bianco. There is a photograph from it in the eleventh volume of the

_Alpine Journal_. Note how essential every detail is to the effect of

the whole, and how impossible it would be to invent such a consistent

multitude of details. The sky-line is of minor importance; it does not

hold the eye. What first attracts it is the great sweeping buttresses

that emerge through the snow and carry the attention down by their

parallelism. As we look more closely at them we find that they in turn

break up into minor groups of parallels, and these again into similar

elements; yet with all this general repetition no two details are the

same. The aspect of the general structure may be compared to that of a

leaf with a number of ribs all obedient to a single law of form. The

snow that fills the spaces between the buttresses and overflows them

where it can, is no dead covering, but alive like a river. We obtain at

first glance, now that we know how to look for it, a sense of its weight

and movement. How strange it seems that that movement should not have

been observed centuries ago! The flowing of the snow is expressed by all

sorts of signs. Here it breaks into cliffs and tumbles; there it pours

down in a continuous stream interrupted only by crevasses, which

indicate its relative speed at adjacent points; there again, on some

small ledge or gentler slope, it lags and piles up. But as a rule it is

evidently in haste to get down, and the signs of this haste are a

measure of the steepness of the slope. High aloft the plunge seems

vertical, and one wonders how any snow can adhere to such uncompromising

crags. When the mists are drawn across it, or a bed of clouds lies at

its foot, filling the Macugnaga valley as with a white lake, the wall

seems yet more cliff-like. It is only when low sunlight strikes it

aslant and makes manifest its modelling that a suggestion is given of

the actual angle of the slope leading up from the glacier floor below to

the giddy crest.

Another kind of mountain front, akin to these yet belonging to a class

of its own, is the true rock-face. Such may have their ledges and

gullies picked out with snow, or even (as in the case of the Meije) a

small glacier caught on a shelf, but snow must not predominate, must not

even cover a considerable fraction of their surface. Mountains with

rock-faces of this kind are, of course, commonest among the secondary

groups. Thus there are many in Canton Glarus and thereabouts, yet more

among the Dolomites and in all the limestone districts. The west face of

the Weisshorn may perhaps be counted a rock-wall, but, if that is

excluded, the Grivola is, I think, the biggest example. The Bluemlisalp

and Breithorn, Altels and the Balmhorn, are other examples. If, however,

I were to be compelled to select one such peak as type, I should choose

Pelmo or Schlern in the Dolomites, and be content, even though some

vaster example were quoted against me. For, after all, it is not the

actual scale that matters, but the appearance of scale. I have heard it

said that the north-east face of the Zinal Rothhorn is the biggest true

cliff in the Alps. It may be, but it does not so appear from any

ordinary point of view--the Rothhorn, in fact, seeming insignificant

from almost everywhere.

These rock fronts must not be looked at from too far away. Unless they

subtend a high vertical angle to the vision they produce little effect.

But stand beneath them, and what pomp and power they display! You must

be near enough to see the details of their structure, and to trace the

joints of their masonry, for it is in the recognition of their

upbuilding, stone by stone, that their impressiveness consists. That is

why a snow-slope drawn down across the edges of their strata is so

little to be desired. If by good-luck the successive strata vary

somewhat in colour, the cliff will be magnified thereby. To the

perception of multiplicity recurrent detail is essential, and that

perception involves relative proximity and is helped by familiarity. The

oftener you stand beneath such a wall the bigger it appears to grow.

It is not a thing that can be painted, still less photographed; for no

painter could set down details enough, and the camera will not select

the right ones. It is the horizontal details that we want. If the reader

will observe how a high tower or other lofty building impresses its

scale upon him, he will find it to be by the joints of its masonry,

unless indeed he be standing far off and the tower is seen to rise high

above the houses of a town whose size is instinctively perceived. Here

again the accomplished climber who has actually scrambled up the sheer

face of such a cliff and so measured it against his own slow progress

and his accumulated fatigue, has an advantage over any mere spectator.

This advantage is increased by the fact that he will recognise and know

the size of many details of ledge and pitch which he has actually

handled and surmounted. Such personal knowledge is the best of all

measuring scales. A traveller who cannot attain it must be content with

the lesser insight that can be attained by slow examination. In no case

is the full effect to be perceived at once. Nature sometimes, as it

were, flings herself upon our imaginations and suddenly overpowers us by

her excessive grandeur. At other times she seems to say, "It is

nothing"; so as to let superficial persons pass by; but just then

perhaps we are in the presence of some superlatively great exhibition of

her majesty which it requires experience, time, and attention to

discover.

It should remove any tendency to conceit in those who have travelled

far and seen much to remember that, however often they may have beheld

and delighted in glorious sights, the best-visioned of them and the most

sensitive has missed far more than he has seen. What opportunities he

must have had, and how relatively few of them has he utilised! At best

he has been but like a traveller in a motor-car, whisking across

historic lands, and passing here by an abbey, there through some old

town, there again over some historic battle-field, and not suspecting

their existence, or not knowing enough to thrill with the rich emotions

they would excite in a better-informed mind. It is not the eyes that are

lacking, but the knowledge and the time to acquire it. You may scurry

along below the cliff of Pelmo without a flutter of the heart. But

wander half a day beneath it, examine its details, watch the sunlight

playing on its ledges, and the shadows in the gullies that cut them, a

sense of its grandeur will invade your consciousness, and the memory of

that will remain with you till you turn childish with old age and others

know that you have lived too long.

[Illustration: 42. THE BREITHORN FROM SCHWARZ SEE.]

Whatever the dignity of these great walls, when suitably beheld, the

peaks they belong to, if their summit crests are long and flat, are not

comparable for individual beauty of form with the snow domes or the

ridged pyramids. They have, however, an importance and perform a

function of their own in any large mountain panorama of which they form

a part. Before me as I write there chances to lie Donkin's photograph of

the view from the New Weissthor, looking down the Gorner glacier. The

pyramid of the Matterhorn is on the right; the wall of the Breithorn is

in the midst; the curdled snow-face of the Lyskamm is near at hand on

the left. It is not by any means a perfect natural composition, yet it

does fix the attention, and a moment's thought shows that it does so by

the marked contrast between the forms of the Breithorn and the Cervin.

Blot either of them out and the character of the view is changed.

I well remember standing, one very clear day, on the summit of a

relatively high peak in the icy heart of Spitsbergen and surveying a

vast panorama. The peaks in it being all actually small (though not

appearing so) and the area of the panorama very large, the multitude of

peaks in sight was numerically much greater than in any Alpine panorama,

not excluding even that from Mont Blanc. In one direction the mountains

happened to be all of one character. Each was similar in form to its

neighbour. Some distance further round was another group formed of peaks

as various as are the Alps. It was at once obvious how much the variety

added to the picturesqueness. The same lesson can be learnt from the top

of Monte Viso. Look southward and you will behold, ridge behind similar

ridge, a remarkable uniformity. Face northward and round to the east,

the effect is one of infinite variety. Such variety, contrast of walled

peak with pyramid, of pyramid with dome, here thronged together, there

sundered by some wide stretch of lower elevation, entertains and

stimulates the observer's mind.

Sometimes the repetition of a form with only slight change has the

value of emphasis, or, as in the case of minor ridges dividing couloirs

or side glaciers, it binds the composition together and forms a kind of

warp and woof for Nature's detailed embroidery. The value of repetition

is instinctively felt by most in the case of a pair of peaks, standing

side by side and visibly linked together by some high connecting ridge,

or apparently linked by what seems to be a ridge but is really produced

by foreshortening. They are frequently named "the Twins." A notable

instance of such a pair is the Dom and Taeschhorn. Stand anywhere

commanding a view down the Zermatt valley, where you can see this pair

of peaks defining it on the right, and the Weisshorn's delicate and

single pyramid opposed to them on the left, and you will at once

recognise how much the great pair and the single peak gain by contrast

with one another. Or climb (I should now say take the train) to the

Gorner Grat and look abroad to the south. How much less effective would

be the panorama if the two long walls of the Breithorn and Lyskamm had a

third similar wall between them instead of the coupled domes named

Castor and Pollux.

[Illustration: 43. THE LYSKAMM. From the Riffelberg. Gorner glacier

below.]

It would be easy to continue this fanciful classification of Alps and

discussion of types for another fifty pages, but it would serve no

useful purpose. Long before this the reader has probably been objecting

that it is an unscientific and incomplete classification, and that most

peaks could be made to enter all the categories if regarded from

suitable standpoints. Such, in fact, may be the case. My object in thus

writing has merely been to suggest cross-routes and byways for the

memories, fancies, and future observations of my readers. The mountains

for us who love them are the playthings of our fancy. We may do with

them what we please. They excite in us the sense of beauty, and we try

to tell of the emotions we have felt in their presence. Those emotions

quickened by them, how we know not, in fact arise in us. We are free to

make of them what we please, to give them any kind of play. They are

then bound by no scientific laws. A mountain may be a chunk of granite

heaved up by I know not what play of forces and carved out by a

perfectly orderly denudation; but to me, if I please, it is a Maiden, an

Ogre, a Golden Throne. I can endow it with a character, and reckon up

friends and foes to it amongst its neighbours. Or I can call it a fairy

palace, and people it with sprites and dancing creatures of gossamer

clothed in the dawn. No one can say me nay. Now and again, perhaps, I

may whisper my dream to a sympathetic friend--but not often. For the

most part we keep such heart-frolics of a happy hour in the inaccessible

places of their origin.

Brother climber! we have secrets of our own, you and I--secrets that we

never told to one another, even when we stood side by side together on

the mountain-top. But there was a thrill within each of us, was there

not? and each knew that with the other it was well.

The Alps(#39542) · 第 7 / 12 章