VOYAGE OF THE _POLARIS_ (1871−73)
Captain Charles Francis Hall, after having dwelt with the Esquimaux
about eight years, during which he lived like one of them and acquired
their language, returned to America in 1869.
He had a great ambition to reach the spot “where there is no North, no
East, no West.” Early in 1870 he began his agitation for an expedition
to the North Pole. He lectured in various parts of the United States,
and received encouragement from the Hon. George M. Robeson, Secretary of
the United States Navy. Ultimately a wooden river gun-boat of 387 tons,
called the _Periwinkle_, was given to Hall, and was afterwards
rechristened _Polaris_. Congress also granted 50,000 dollars.
Hall, who was not himself a seaman, engaged Captain S. O. Budington as
sailing-master. Captain Budington had made thirteen whaling voyages to
Baffin’s Bay, and was therefore an experienced ice-navigator. Dr.
Bessels was naturalist, and Mr. Meyer meteorologist. Morton, of Kane’s
expedition, also accompanied Hall. Mr. Grinnell, the munificent promoter
of expeditions for the search of Franklin, presented Hall with the flag
which, in 1838, had been with Wilkes to the Antarctic regions, and which
had since been in the northern Polar seas with De Haven, Kane, and
Hayes.
Hall’s first intention was to proceed up Jones Sound, but his opinion
regarding this route changed before he left the States. He trusted
chiefly to dogs for his sledge-travelling, and did not expect to reach a
higher latitude than 80° during the first year.
The _Polaris_ left New London on 3rd July 1871, and St. John’s on 19th
July. The coast of Greenland was first seen on 27th July, and Upernavik
was reached on 19th August. Here Hans, of Kane’s and Hayes’ expedition,
was engaged as dog-driver and servant, and received a salary of 300
dollars per annum. His wife and three children, who were dressed in
ragged and filthy skin clothing, accompanied him. Their luggage
consisted of tents, tools, cooking utensils, implements of the chase,
and three or four puppies whose eyes could scarcely bear the light.
The _Polaris_ was first stopped by the ice off the western shore of
Hakluyt Island, about 5 a.m. on the 27th August, but by forcing ahead,
open water was reached the same day. At 3 p.m. on that day the _Polaris_
was opposite Cape Alexander; at 5 p.m. it was off Littleton Island;
Cairn Point was passed at 6.30; and at 8 p.m. the parallel of Rensselaer
Harbour was reached.
Smith Sound was found quite open. At midnight a heavy pack was seen, but
in about two hours its south-western point was rounded. At 3.30 a.m. on
the 28th, Cape Hawks was on the port beam, about 15 miles distant.
The width of the southern entrance of Kennedy Channel was estimated to
be about 35 miles, and it was found to narrow towards the north to about
25 miles.
The highest latitude, estimated by Hall to be 82° 26′, but afterwards
corrected to 82° 11′, was reached at 6 a.m. on the 30th August. Hall had
therefore passed from Cape Alexander, at the entrance of Smith Sound, to
his highest point in Robeson Channel, in about two and a half days. He
had carried his ship much farther north than any ship had ever reached
before.
The barrier of ice had now been reached, and it became necessary to
search for a harbour. Steaming southwards, a little bay was seen, but
after two attempts to enter it, Hall had to acknowledge defeat. He named
it “Repulse Harbour.”
Budington wished the _Polaris_ to take winter quarters in Newman Bay,
but Hall decided to try and reach the west coast. After boring for a
distance of 12 miles, the _Polaris_ was beset, and was not released
until the 4th September, when a course was made for the eastern shore.
On the 5th September the anchor was dropped about 300 yards from shore,
in latitude 81° 37′, and about 4 miles south of Cape Lupton.
Hall named Robeson Channel after the Secretary to the Navy, and the
Harbour was named “Thank-God Harbour.”
A large quantity of provisions and stores was now landed, and
preparations were at once made to explore the surrounding neighbourhood.
Traces of Esquimaux were soon found; and on the 6th September, Hall and
some of his companions ascended Cape Lupton, from which Robeson Channel
could be seen as far as Cape Union. The bay extending from Cape Lupton
to Cape Budington was named “Polaris Bay.”
A hunting-party was sent out on 18th September. It returned on the 23rd,
and reported having killed a musk-ox. This was very interesting news, as
it was the first musk-ox ever seen on the west coast of Greenland.
On 10th October, Captain Hall, Mr. Chester, and the Esquimaux Joe and
Hans started on a sledge-journey towards the north. On the 15th, Hall
camped in sight of a bay which he named “Newman Bay.” On the 18th, Hall
and Mr. Chester ascended to the top of Cape Brevoort, situated on the
north side of this bay. The return journey was made from this point.
During this journey the party slept in snow-houses. They returned to the
ship on 24th October. All were well with the exception of Captain Hall.
He complained of not having his usual amount of energy. Soon after his
return he became sick and vomited a good deal. Dr. Bessels announced
that same evening that Hall’s left side was paralysed and that he had
had an apoplectic attack. On the 29th he had marked symptoms of
insanity, and believed that an attempt was being made to poison him.
However, by the 6th November he had largely recovered, but at night he
again became alarmingly ill. On the 7th he became comatose, and died on
the morning of the 8th November. On the 10th November he was buried on
the shore of Polaris Bay, and a wooden monument was erected over his
grave.
It was a sad and unexpected ending to a life full of high hope.
On the death of Captain Hall, the command devolved upon Captain
Budington.
On the 18th November a severe gale began. It increased in violence on
the 19th, until the wind reached 52 miles per hour. It continued on the
20th and 21st, and on the latter date the _Polaris_ was found to be
afloat. With great difficulty the ship was secured to a large grounded
iceberg which was named “Providence Berg.” The _Polaris_ was thus saved
from being carried into the pack.
Nothing of special interest occurred during the remainder of the winter.
In March 1872, Joe the Eskimo, in one of his hunting expeditions,
discovered Petermann’s Fiord.
On 27th March a sledge-party in charge of Dr. Bessels set out with the
object of reaching Cape Constitution, Morton’s farthest, and
ascertaining its correct position. The party reached within 30 miles of
the cape, but had then to return.
The whole expedition were anxious to explore the region to the north,
but the strange conclusion was arrived at that it was necessary to
proceed in boats. The idea of the “open sea” had evidently some
influence with them. When a small channel formed it gave rise to high
hopes that a start with the boats would be made, but these hopes were
soon dashed when the channel closed again. Instead of setting out with
sledge-parties along the coast, the spring and part of the summer were
allowed to slip away while they waited for open water. Yet they were in
a more favourable position for making an advance towards the north of
Greenland than any party before or since.
On the 8th June a start was made from Cape Lupton with a boat, which had
previously been taken there, but it was crushed in the ice next day.
Another start was made on the 10th with two boats, and the party
succeeded in reaching Newman Bay without much difficulty, but found it
impossible to proceed farther north with the boats.
During the month of June the _Polaris_ leaked badly, and the pumps had
to be kept frequently at work. On the 26th of this month the ship was
liberated from the ice by means of saws, and Budington at once
determined to start for the north. On approaching Cape Sumner, however,
the pack was found to be impenetrable. After crossing to Cape Lieber
without finding an opening, the _Polaris_ returned to “Thank-God
Harbour.” On the 28th June, Budington received the news that the
boat-party was at Newman Bay, and he attempted to take the _Polaris_
north so as to pick up the boats, but the pack was again met at Cape
Sumner. He then sent instructions for the boat-party to return. The
boats were abandoned at Newman Bay, and the last of the party returned
to the _Polaris_ on 22nd July.
At the beginning of August, Budington determined to start towards the
south as soon as an opportunity presented itself. This occurred on the
12th August at 4.30 p.m. Next day a close pack was met, and the
_Polaris_ was fastened to a large floe and allowed to drift slowly down
the channel. Cape Constitution was passed on the 14th. During the rest
of the month, and throughout the whole of September, the drift southward
was very slow. On the 12th October the _Polaris_ was within 2 miles of
Cairn Point, and on the 14th Northumberland Island was visible. During
September and October a house was built on the floe.
On the 15th October a severe gale sprang up, and preparations had to be
made in case it was found necessary to abandon the ship. During her
drift southwards the _Polaris_ had been nipped several times, and was
leaking badly. During this gale she was again nipped so severely that
Budington ordered provisions and stores to be thrown upon the ice. The
Esquimaux women and children took refuge on the floe. While some of the
crew were carrying articles to a safe place on the floe, the _Polaris_
was suddenly drifted away from the ice. So quickly did this catastrophe
take place that the floe-party soon disappeared from view.
Budington now called all hands to muster, and found that fourteen men
remained on board. The _Polaris_ drifted rapidly until toward midnight,
when she ran into some young ice, and her progress was stayed. Next
morning the ship’s position was found to be half-way between Littleton
Island and Cairn Point. No trace of the missing party could be seen.
Later in the day the _Polaris_ reached the coast, and was secured with
heavy hawsers to large grounded hummocks.
On the 19th October two Esquimaux appeared at the ship, and on this date
it was decided to build a house on shore. More Esquimaux arrived on the
21st, and they gave great assistance in sledging articles to the shore.
The house was soon erected, and was used by the party throughout the
winter. Large numbers of Esquimaux made frequent visits, and were very
friendly with the party during the whole time of their stay.
Towards the end of February 1873 it was decided to begin the
construction of two boats in which the party intended to make a retreat
to the Danish settlements.
On the 30th May almost all the land-ice broke away, and with it the
_Polaris_ went adrift. She was carried about 200 yards towards the
south, when she again grounded. At high tide her upper deck was 2 feet
under water.
On the 3rd June 1873 the party set out for the south in their two boats.
On the 23rd of this month, in Melville Bay, not far from Cape York, they
were gladdened by the sight of a whaler. It turned out to be the
_Ravenscraig_ of Kirkcaldy, Scotland, owned by Ninian Lockhart, and
commanded by Captain William Allen. The _Polaris_ party were
enthusiastically received, and were treated with the greatest kindness.
They were ultimately taken to Dundee.
We must now return to the party on the floe. It consisted of ten
Americans and nine Esquimaux. The Americans were Tyson, Meyer, Herron,
Jackson, Kruger, Jamka, Nindemann, Aunting, Lindqvist, and Johnson. They
had two boats, two kayaks, a canvas boat, and some navigation
instruments, besides a moderate quantity of provisions.
Next day, after their separation from the _Polaris_, the floe on which
they were was found to be near Littleton Island. The party took to their
boats, intending to make for the land and to look for the _Polaris_, but
a breeze sprang up and obliged them to haul the boats on the ice. Soon
after this, the _Polaris_ was seen rounding a point 8 or 10 miles away.
Signals were made, but were not noticed by those on the vessel. After
this, the floe drifted away from land towards the west coast, then
across to the neighbourhood of Northumberland Island, and finally
southwards to the east of the Carey Islands.
The Esquimaux during this time were successful in capturing a number of
seals. The provisions were served out by weight, 11 oz. being a day’s
allowance.
During October three snow-houses were built. By November the temperature
became very low, and the effects of exposure and want of food began to
tell on the party. Some of the men trembled when they tried to walk, and
the Esquimaux children often cried with hunger, although all was given
them that could possibly be spared. The services of Joe and Hans were
invaluable: without them, the chances of life would have been very much
diminished. So keen had the appetites of the party become that the
seal-meat was eaten uncooked, with the skin and hair on.
On the 7th December the latitude of 74° 4′ was reached. During this
month the allowance of food was 16 oz. Christmas was celebrated by an
extra meal. At breakfast, an additional ounce of bread made the soup a
little thicker than usual. New Year’s Day did not pass so well. One of
the party described the dinner as “mouldy bread and short allowance.”
Captain Tyson stated that he had dined “on about 2 feet of frozen
entrails and a little blubber.”
On the 6th January 1873 the latitude was approximately 72° 7′. On the
15th of this month the temperature went down to 40° below zero. On the
19th, the sun reappeared after an absence of eighty-three days.
On the 21st February the rations were reduced to 7 oz., so that they
might last till April. At the beginning of March the temperature was
over 30° below zero, and food was scarce. On the 2nd of the month Joe
was fortunate in shooting a large seal, an “ookgook,” and it can be
imagined with what delight the starving party received it. They feasted
on it till most of them became ill. Soon after this seal was captured a
storm came on, and it was feared that the floe would break up: the noise
of the ice was like that of artillery. All the party remained dressed
and ready in case of sudden disaster. After the gale began to moderate,
it was found that the ice all around had been broken up, and that the
piece on which they were was now only about 175 yards in size.
On the 12th March the latitude was found to be 64° 32′. On the 27th of
this month a bear was shot. This was very much appreciated: the flesh
was compared to pork. On the last day of March the latitude was about
the same as Cape Farewell—the most southern point of Greenland.
On the 1st April it was found necessary to abandon the floe and take to
the boat. When all the party entered, the boat was found to be
overloaded, and 100 lb. of meat and nearly all the clothing had to be
thrown overboard. During the next few days the party were kept
continually launching and then hauling up the boat on the ice. On the
7th April the ice split across the tent; the party managed to save
themselves, but lost their breakfast. Next day the ice split between the
tent and the boat, and it was only with great difficulty that the latter
was secured.
During the next eight days they were imprisoned on the ice, and the
amount of food ran very low. On the 18th April a seal was shot by Joe
and was eaten raw. Next day a sea struck the floe on which they were
camped and washed away the tent, skins, and most of the bed-clothing. It
was with the utmost difficulty that the men prevented the boat from
being lost. They held on to the boat from 9 p.m. till 7 next morning.
During this time many of them were frequently struck by blocks of ice
and severely bruised. On the 22nd April they were saved from starvation
by the capture of a bear.
At 4.30 p.m. on the 28th April a steamer hove in sight, but failed to
see them. Next day another steamer was seen, but after the party
believed they were observed, it changed its course and disappeared. On
the 30th April, on some fog clearing away, they were overjoyed to see a
steamer close at hand. Shots and shouting soon attracted attention, and
in a few minutes it was alongside. The vessel was the sealer _Tigress_,
Captain Bartlett of Newfoundland. The party were picked up in latitude
53° 35′, off Grady Harbour, Labrador.
The return to civilised life and its food and comforts was attended with
swollen legs and feet, diarrhœa, and severe headache. The _Tigress_
landed the party at St. John’s on 12th May.
The voyage of the _Polaris_ extended considerably our knowledge of the
Smith Sound route towards the Pole. It also did much to explode the
theory of an open Polar Sea. The _Polaris_ was carried to a more
northern point than a vessel had ever before reached, and it prepared
the way for the British Expedition of 1875.
One might naturally suppose that the Arctic regions would offer no
further attractions to those who suffered the terrible experience on the
drifting ice, but it will be afterwards seen that at least one of the
party played a noble rôle in another American Expedition which met with
disaster.
[Illustration: KAISER FRANZ JOSEF LAND AS KNOWN IN 1874.]