CHAPTER I

THE FOUNDERS OF ACADIA

The name Acadia, [Footnote: The origin of the name is

uncertain. By some authorities it is supposed to be

derived from the Micmac algaty, signifying a camp or

settlement. Others have traced it to the Micmac akade,

meaning a place where something abounds. Thus, Sunakade

(Shunacadie, C. B.), the cranberry place; Seguboon-akade

(Shubenacadie), the place of the potato, etc. The earliest

map marking the country, that of Ruscelli (1561), gives

the name Lacardie. Andre Thivet, a French writer, mentions

the country in 1575 as Arcadia; and many modern writers

believe Acadia to be merely a corruption of that classic

name.] which we now associate with a great tragedy of

history and song, was first used by the French to

distinguish the eastern or maritime part of New France

from the western part, which began with the St Lawrence

valley and was called Canada. Just where Acadia ended

and Canada began the French never clearly defined--in

course of time, as will be seen, this question became a

cause of war with the English--but we shall not be much

at fault if we take a line from the mouth of the river

Penobscot, due north to the St Lawrence, to mark the

western frontier of the Acadia of the French. Thus, as

the map shows, Acadia lay in that great peninsula which

is flanked by two large islands, and is washed on the

north and east by the river and gulf of St Lawrence, and

on the south by the Atlantic Ocean; and it comprised what

are to-day parts of Quebec and Maine, as well as the

provinces of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward

Island. When the French came, and for long after, this

country was the hunting ground of tribes of the Algonquin

race--Micmacs, Malecites, and Abnakis or Abenakis.

By right of the discoveries of Jean Verrazano (1524) and

Jacques Cartier (1534-42) the French crown laid claim to

all America north of the sphere of Spanish influence.

Colonial enterprise, however, did not thrive during the

religious wars which rent Europe in the sixteenth century;

and it was not until after the Edict of Nantes in 1598

that France could follow up the discoveries of her seamen

by an effort to colonize either Acadia or Canada. Abortive

attempts had indeed been made by the Marquis de la Roche,

but these had resulted only in the marooning of fifty

unfortunate convicts on Sable Island. The first real

colonizing venture of the French in the New World was

that of the Sieur de Monts, the patron and associate of

Champlain. [Footnote: See The founder of New France in

this Series, chap. ii.] The site of this first colony

was in Acadia. Armed with viceregal powers and a trading

monopoly for ten years, De Monts gathered his colonists,

equipped two ships, and set out from Havre de Grace in

April 1604. The company numbered about a hundred and

fifty Frenchmen of various ranks and conditions, from

the lowest to the highest--convicts taken from the prisons,

labourers and artisans, Huguenot ministers and Catholic

priests, some gentlemen of noble birth, among them Jean

de Biencourt, Baron de Poutrincourt, and the already

famous explorer Champlain.

The vessels reached Cape La Heve on the south coast of

Nova Scotia in May. They rounded Cape Sable, sailed up

the Bay of Fundy, and entered the Annapolis Basin, which

Champlain named Port Royal. The scene here so stirred

the admiration of the Baron de Poutrincourt that he

coveted the place as an estate for his family, and begged

De Monts, who by his patent was lord of the entire country,

to grant him the adjoining lands. De Monts consented;

the estate was conveyed; and Poutrincourt became the

seigneur of Port Royal.

The adventurers crossed to the New Brunswick shore, turned

their vessel westward, passed the mouth of the river St

John, which they named, and finally dropped anchor in

Passamaquoddy Bay. Here, on a small island near the mouth

of the river St Croix, now on the boundary-line between

New Brunswick and Maine, De Monts landed his colonists.

They cleared the ground; and, within an enclosure known

as the Habitation de l'Isle Saincte-Croix, erected a few

buildings--'one made with very fair and artificial

carpentry work' for De Monts, while others, less ornamental,

were for 'Monsieur d'Orville, Monsieur Champlein, Monsieur

Champdore, and other men of high standing.'

Then as the season waned the vessels, which linked them

to the world they had left, unfurled their sails and set

out for France. Seventy-nine men remained at St Croix,

among them De Monts and Champlain. In the vast solitude

of forest they settled down for the winter, which was

destined to be full of horrors. By spring thirty-five of

the company had died of scurvy and twenty more were at

the point of death. Evidently St Croix was not a good

place for a colony. The soil was sandy and there was no

fresh water. So, in June, after the arrival of a vessel

bringing supplies from France, De Monts and Champlain

set out to explore the coasts in search of a better site.

But, finding none which they deemed suitable, they decided

to tempt fortune at Poutrincourt's domain of Port Royal.

Thither, then, in August the colonists moved, carrying

their implements and stores across the Bay of Fundy, and

landing on the north side of the Annapolis Basin, opposite

Goat Island, where the village of Lower Granville now

stands.

The colony thus formed at Port Royal in the summer of

1605--the first agricultural settlement of Europeans on

soil which is now Canadian--had a broken existence of

eight years. Owing to intrigues at the French court, De

Monts lost his charter in 1607 and the colony was

temporarily abandoned; but it was re-established in 1610

by Poutrincourt and his son Charles de Biencourt. The

episode of Port Royal, one of the most lively in Canadian

history, introduces to us some striking characters.

Besides the leaders in the enterprise, already mentioned

--De Monts, Champlain, Poutrincourt, and Biencourt--we

meet here Lescarbot, [Footnote: Lescarbot was the historian

of the colony. His History of New France, reprinted by

the Champlain Society (Toronto, 1911), with an English

translation, notes, and appendices by W. L. Grant, is a

delightful and instructive work.] lawyer, merry philosopher,

historian, and farmer; likewise, Louis Hebert, planting

vines and sowing wheat--the same Louis Hebert who afterwards

became the first tiller of the soil at Quebec. Here,

also, is Membertou, sagamore of the Micmacs, 'a man of

a hundred summers' and 'the most formidable savage within

the memory of man.' Hither, too, in 1611, came the Jesuits

Biard and Masse, the first of the black-robed followers

of Loyola to set foot in New France. But the colony was

to perish in an event which foreshadowed the struggle in

America between France and England. In 1613 the English

Captain Argall from new-founded Virginia sailed up the

coasts of Acadia looking for Frenchmen. The Jesuits had

just begun on Mount Desert Island the mission of St

Sauveur. This Argall raided and destroyed. He then went

on and ravaged Port Royal. And its occupants, young

Biencourt and a handful of companions, were forced to

take to a wandering life among the Indians.

Twenty years passed before the French made another

organized effort to colonize Acadia. The interval, however,

was not without events which had a bearing on the later

fortunes of the colony. Missionaries from Quebec, both

Recollets and Jesuits, took up their abode among the

Indians, on the river St John and at Nipisiguit on Chaleur

Bay. Trading companies exploited the fur fields and the

fisheries, and French vessels visited the coasts every

summer. It was during this period that the English Puritans

landed at Plymouth (1620), at Salem (1628), and at Boston

(1630), and made a lodgment there on the south-west flank

of Acadia. The period, too, saw Sir William Alexander's

Scots in Nova Scotia and saw the English Kirkes raiding

the settlements of New France. [Footnote: See The Jesuit

Missions in this Series, chap. iv.]

The Baron de Poutrincourt died in 1615, leaving his estate

to his son Biencourt. And after Biencourt's own death in

1623, it was found that he had bequeathed a considerable

fortune, including all his property and rights in Acadia,

to his friend and companion, that interesting and

resourceful adventurer, Charles de la Tour. This man,

when a lad of fourteen, and his father, Claude de la

Tour, had come out to Acadia in the service of Poutrincourt.

After the destruction of Port Royal, Charles de la Tour

had followed young Biencourt into the forest, and had

lived with him the nomadic life of the Indians. Later,

the elder La Tour established himself for trade at the

mouth of the Penobscot, but he was driven away from this

post by a party from the English colony at Plymouth. The

younger La Tour, after coming into Biencourt's property,

built Fort Lomeron, afterwards named St Louis, at the

place now known as Port Latour, near Cape Sable. This

made him in fact, if not in name, the French ruler of

Acadia, for his Fort St Louis was the only place of any

strength in the whole country.

By 1627 the survivors of Biencourt's wandering companions

had settled down, some of them in their old quarters at

Port Royal, but most of them with La Tour at Cape Sable.

Then came to Acadia seventy Scottish settlers, sent hither

by Sir William Alexander, who took up their quarters at

Port Royal and named it Scots Fort. The French described

these settlers as 'all kinds of vagabonds, barbarians,

and savages from Scotland'; and the elder La Tour went

to France to procure stores and ammunition, and to petition

the king to grant his son a commission to hold Acadia

against the intruders. But the elder La Tour was not to

come back in the role of a loyal subject of France. He

was returning in 1628 with the ships of the newly formed

Company of One Hundred Associates, under Roquemont, when,

off the Gaspe coast, appeared the hostile sail of the

Kirkes; and La Tour was taken prisoner to England. There

he entered into an alliance with the English, accepted

grants of land from Sir William Alexander, had himself

and his son made Baronets of Nova Scotia, and promised

to bring his son over to the English side. Young La Tour,

when his father returned, accepted the gift, and by some

means procured also, in 1631, a commission from the French

king as lieutenant-general of Acadia. Later, as we shall

see, his dual allegiance proved convenient.

The restoration of Acadia to France in 1632, by the Treaty

of St Germain-en-Laye, was to Cardinal Richelieu the

signal for a renewal of the great colonizing project

which he had set on foot five years earlier and which

had been interrupted by the hostile activities of the

Kirkes. [Footnote: See The founder of New France, chap.

v, and The Jesuit Missions, chap. iv.] Richelieu appointed

lieutenant-general of Acadia Isaac de Razilly, one of

the Company of One Hundred Associates and commander of

the Order of Malta, with authority to take over Acadia

from the Scots. Razilly brought out with him three hundred

settlers, recruited mainly from the districts of Touraine

and Brittany--the first considerable body of colonists

to come to the country. He was a man of more than ordinary

ability, of keen insight and affable manners. 'The

commander,' wrote Champlain, 'possessed all the qualities

of a good, a perfect sea-captain; prudent, wise,

industrious; urged by the saintly motive of increasing

the glory of God and of exercising his energy in New

France in order to erect the cross of Christ and plant

the lilies of France therein.' He planned for Acadia on

a large scale. He endeavoured to persuade Louis XIII to

maintain a fleet of twelve vessels for the service of

the colony, and promised to bring out good settlers from

year to year. Unfortunately, his death occurred in 1635

before his dreams could be realized. He had been given

the power to name his successor; and on his death-bed he

appointed his cousin and companion, Charles de Menou,

Sieur d'Aulnay Charnisay, adjuring him 'not to abandon

the country, but to pursue a task so gloriously begun.'

Years of strife and confusion followed. Razilly had made

La Heve his headquarters; but Charnisay took up his at

Port Royal. [Footnote: Charnisay built his fort about

six miles farther up than the original Port Royal, and

on the opposite side of the river, at the place thenceforth

known as Port Royal until 1710, and since then as Annapolis

Royal or Annapolis.] This brought him into conflict with

Charles de la Tour, who had now established himself at

the mouth of the river St John, and whose commission from

the king, giving him jurisdiction over the whole of

Acadia, had, apparently, never been rescinded. The king,

to whom the dispute was referred, instructed that an

imaginary line should be drawn through the Bay of Fundy

to divide the territory of Charnisay from that of La

Tour. But this arrangement did not prevent the rivalry

between the two feudal chiefs from developing into open

warfare. In the struggle the honours rested with Charnisay.

Having first undermined La Tour's influence at court, he

attacked and captured La Tour's Fort St John. This happened

in 1645. La Tour himself was absent; but his wife, a

woman of heroic mould, made a most determined resistance.

[Footnote: This follows the story as told by Denys (see

p. 18 note), which has been generally accepted by

historians. But Charnisay in an elaborate memoir (Memoire

Instructif) gives a very different version of this affair.]

La Tour was impoverished and driven into exile; his

remarkable wife died soon afterwards; and Charnisay

remained lord of all he surveyed. But Charnisay was not

long to enjoy his dominion. In May 1650 he was thrown by

accident from his canoe into the Annapolis river and died

in consequence of the exposure.

In the year following Charnisay's death Charles de la

Tour reappeared on the scene. Armed with a new patent

from the French king, making him governor and lieutenant-

general of Acadia, he took possession of his fort at the

mouth of the St John, and further strengthened his position

by marrying the widow of his old rival Charnisay. Three

years later (1654), when the country fell again into the

hands of the English, La Tour turned to good account his

previous relations with them. He was permitted to retain

his post, and lived happily with his wife [Footnote: They

had five children, who married and settled in Acadia.

Many of their descendants may be counted among the Acadian

families living at the present time in Nova Scotia and

New Brunswick.] at Fort St John, so far as history records,

until his death in 1666.

By the Treaty of Breda in 1667 Acadia was restored to

France, and a period ensued of unbroken French rule. The

history of the forty-three years from the Treaty of Breda

until the English finally took possession is first a

history of slow but peaceful development, and latterly

of raids and bloody strife in which French and English

and Indians were involved. In 1671 the population,

according to a census of that year, numbered less than

four hundred and fifty. This was presently increased by

sixty new colonists from France. By 1685 this population

had more than doubled and the tiny settlements appeared

to be thriving. But after 1690 war again racked the land.

During this period Acadia was under the government of

Quebec, but there was always a local governor. The first

of these, Hubert de Grandfontaine, came out in 1670. He

and some of his successors were men of force and ability;

but others, such as Brouillan, who issued card money

without authority and applied torture to an unconvicted

soldier, and Perrot, who sold liquor by the pint and the

half-pint in his own house, were unworthy representatives

of the crown.

By 1710 the population of Acadia had grown to about

twenty-one hundred souls, distributed chiefly in the

districts of Port Royal, Minas, and Chignecto. Most of

these were descended from the settlers brought over by

Razilly and Charnisay between 1633 and 1638. On the whole,

they were a strong, healthy, virtuous people, sincerely

attached to their religion and their traditions. The most

notable singularity of their race was stubbornness,

although they could be led by kindness where they could

not be driven by force. Though inclined to litigation,

they were not unwilling to arbitrate their differences.

They 'had none who were bred mechanics; every farmer was

his own architect and every man of property a farmer.'

'The term Mister was unknown among them.' They took pride

in their appearance and wore most attractive costumes,

in which black and red colours predominated. Content with

the product of their labour and having few wants, they

lived in perfect equality and with extreme frugality. In

an age when learning was confined to the few, they were

not more illiterate than the corresponding class in other

countries. 'In the summer the men were continually employed

in husbandry.' They cultivated chiefly the rich marsh-lands

by the rivers and the sea, building dikes along the banks

and shores to shut out the tides; and made little effort

to clear the woodlands. 'In the winter they were engaged

in cutting timber and wood for fuel and fencing, and in

hunting; the women in carding, spinning, and weaving

wool, flax, and hemp, of which their country furnished

abundance; these, with furs from bears, beavers, foxes,

otters, and martens, gave them not only comfortable, but

in some cases handsome clothing.' Although they had large

herds of cattle, 'they never made any merchantable butter,

being used to set their milk in small noggins which were

kept in such order as to turn it thick and sour in a

short time, of which they ate voraciously.' [Footnote:

Public Archives, Canada, Brown Collection, M 651a, 171.]

The lands which the Acadians reclaimed from the sea and

cultivated were fertile in the extreme. A description

has come down to us of what was doubtless a typical

Acadian garden. In it were quantities of 'very fine

well-headed cabbages and of all other sorts of pot herbs

and vegetables.' Apple and pear trees brought from France

flourished. The peas were 'so covered with pods that it

could only be believed by seeing.' The wheat was

particularly good. We read of one piece of land where

'each grain had produced six or eight stems, and the

smallest ear was half a foot in length, filled with

grain.' The streams and rivers, too, teemed with fish.

The noise of salmon sporting in the rivers sounded like

the rush of a turbulent rapid, and a catch such as 'ten

men could not haul to land' was often made in a night.

Pigeons were a plague, alighting in vast flocks in the

newly planted gardens. If the economic progress of the

country had been slow, the reason had lain, not in any

poverty of natural resources, but in the scantiness of

the population, the neglect of the home government, the

incessant turmoil within, and the devastating raids of

English enemies.

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