"Patras, July 30. 1810.
"Dear Madam,
"In four days from Constantinople, with a favourable wind, I arrived
in the frigate at the island of Ceos, from whence I took a boat to
Athens, where I met my friend the Marquis of Sligo, who expressed a
wish to proceed with me as far as Corinth. At Corinth we separated, he
for Tripolitza, I for Patras, where I had some business with the
consul, Mr. Strané, in whose house I now write. He has rendered me
every service in his power since I quitted Malta on my way to
Constantinople, whence I have written to you twice or thrice. In a few
days I visit the Pacha at Tripolitza, make the tour of the Morea, and
return again to Athens, which at present is my head-quarters. The heat
is at present intense. In England, if it reaches 98°, you are all on
fire: the other day, in travelling between Athens and Megara, the
thermometer was at 125°!!! Yet I feel no inconvenience; of course I am
much bronzed, but I live temperately, and never enjoyed better
health.
"Before I left Constantinople, I saw the Sultan (with Mr. Adair), and
the interior of the mosques, things which rarely happen to travellers.
Mr. Hobhouse is gone to England: I am in no hurry to return, but have
no particular communications for your country, except my surprise at
Mr. H----'s silence, and my desire that he will remit regularly. I
suppose some arrangement has been made with regard to Wymondham and
Rochdale. Malta is my post-office, or to Mr. Strané, consul-general,
Patras, Morea. You complain of my silence--I have written twenty or
thirty times within the last year: never less than twice a month, and
often more. If my letters do not arrive, you must not conclude that we
are eaten, or that there is a war, or a pestilence, or famine: neither
must you credit silly reports, which I dare say you have in Notts., as
usual. I am very well, and neither more nor less happy than I usually
am; except that I am very glad to be once more alone, for I was sick
of my companion,--not that he was a bad one, but because my nature
leads me to solitude, and that every day adds to this disposition. If
I chose, here are many men who would wish to join me--one wants me to
go to Egypt, another to Asia, of which I have seen enough. The greater
part of Greece is already my own, so that I shall only go over my old
ground, and look upon my old seas and mountains, the only
acquaintances I ever found improve upon me.
"I have a tolerable suite, a Tartar, two Albanians, an interpreter,
besides Fletcher; but in this country these are easily maintained.
Adair received me wonderfully well, and indeed I have no complaints
against any one. Hospitality here is necessary, for inns are not. I
have lived in the houses of Greeks, Turks, Italians, and
English--to-day in a palace, to-morrow in a cowhouse; this day with a
Pacha, the next with a shepherd. I shall continue to write briefly,
but frequently, and am glad to hear from you; but you fill your
letters with things from the papers, as if English papers were not
found all over the world. I have at this moment a dozen before me.
Pray take care of my books, and believe me, my dear mother,
yours," &c.
The greater part of the two following months he appears to have
occupied in making a tour of the Morea;[140] and the very
distinguished reception he met with from Veley Pacha, the son of Ali,
is mentioned with much pride, in more than one of his letters.
On his return from this tour to Patras, he was seized with a fit of
illness, the particulars of which are mentioned in the following
letter to Mr. Hodgson; and they are, in many respects, so similar to
those of the last fatal malady, with which, fourteen years afterwards,
he was attacked, in nearly the same spot, that, livelily as the
account is written, it is difficult to read it without melancholy:--