_Continuation of the Voyage from the Gambia to the river Kasa-Mansa, Cape
Roxo, the rivers of St Ann and St Domingo, and the Rio Grande._
Having continued eleven days in the river Gambia, and many of our people
becoming affected by acute fevers, we dropt down the river on the evening
of the eleventh day, departing from the country of Batti-Mansa[1], and
got out of the river in a few days, so stocked with commodities as to
encourage us to proceed farther; and indeed, having been so far
successful, and having a plentiful supply of provisions, and every thing
necessary for prosecuting the voyage, we considered as incumbent on us to
attempt some farther discoveries towards the south. We accordingly
steered southwards with a favourable wind; but finding the land to run a
considerable way to the S.S.W. from the mouth of the Gambia, to a certain
point which we took for a cape[2], we stood out to the west to gain the
open sea, the whole coast to the south of the Gambia being low, and
covered with trees to the waters edge. On gaining an offing, we found
that the beforementioned point was no actual cape or promontory, as the
shore appeared perfectly straight on the other side; yet we kept at some
distance out to sea, as we observed breakers for several miles out to
sea[3]. On this account we had to proceed with great caution, keeping
always two men at the head of the ship, and one in the main-top, to look
out for shoals and breakers; and as a farther precaution, we sailed only
during the day, and came to anchor every night. In this cautious progress,
our caravels sailed always one before the other, having fixed the order of
sailing by lot, and changed the leader every day, in order to avoid all
disputes.
At the end of two days sail in this manner, always in sight of land, we
discovered on the third day the mouth of a river about half a mile wide[4],
and towards evening we observed a little gulf or inlet, which we
supposed might be the entrance of another river; but as it grew late, we
came to anchor for the night. Next morning we sailed into this gulf, and
found that it was the mouth of a large river, not a great deal less in my
opinion than the Gambia, and both its banks were full of very beautiful
tall trees. We cast anchor within the mouth of this river, and agreed to
send two armed boats on shore with our interpreters to get intelligence
respecting the country, according to our usual practice. This was done
accordingly, and our interpreters, brought back word that the river was
called Kasamansa, from a Negro lord of that name who resided at a place
about thirty miles up the river; but who was absent from his residence,
on a warlike expedition against the lord of a neighbouring territory.
On receiving this intelligence, we sailed from this river next day,
without attempting any traffic with the natives. This river of Kasamansa
is twenty-five leagues, or 100 miles to the south of the Gambia[5].
Standing on about twenty-five miles farther, we came to a cape which is a
little more elevated than the rest of the coast, and as its front had a
red colour, we named it Cape _Roxo_, or _Rosso_. Proceeding forwards, we
came to the mouth of a pretty large river about a crossbow-shot wide,
which we did not enter, but to which we gave the name of the river of St
Ann. Farther on still, we came to the mouth of another river, not less
than the former, which we named St Dominic, or St Domingo[7]; distant
from Cape Rosso, by our estimation, between fifty-five and sixty miles.
In another days sailing, we came to a very large river, which at first
appeared to be a gulf, and was judged to be about twenty miles in breadth;
but we could observe the beautiful trees on the south side, and it took
us a considerable time to sail across to that side. On getting over to
that side, we observed several islands in the sea, and as we wished to
procure some intelligence concerning the country, we came to an anchor.
Next morning two almadias came off to us from the land, one of which was
as long as a caravel, and carried about thirty hands; the other was
smaller, and was manned by sixteen Negroes. They came towards us with
great eagerness; and, not knowing what might be their design, we took
to our arms and waited their approach. As they drew near, they fixed a
white cloth to the end of an oar, which they held up as a signal of peace,
and we answered them in a similar manner. The Negroes then came alongside
of our ships, the largest of the almadias coming up to the caravel in
which I was. They gazed at every thing they saw, examining the form of
the ship, the masts, yards, sails, and rigging with much attention, and
they seemed astonished at seeing the white colour of our people. Our
interpreters spoke to them, in order to learn the name of the country,
but could not understand a word of their language, which was a great
mortification to us, as we were obliged to leave the place without
getting any intelligence; but we purchased a few gold rings from one of
the Negroes, agreeing about the price by signs.
Finding ourselves in a country where our interpreters were of no use, and
considering therefore that it would be to no purpose for us to proceed
any farther, we determined to return. We stayed two days in the mouth of
this large river, which we therefore named Rio Grande[8], and where we
found the north pole very low[9]. In this place we found great
irregularity in the tides; for, whereas at Venice, and all other places
in Europe, the flux and reflux are each of six hours continuance, the
tide here only flows four hours, and ebbs eight, and the violence of the
flowing tide is quite incredible, insomuch that we had great difficulty
to stem it with three anchors a-head. Nay, such was its impetuosity, that
we were sometimes obliged to hoist our sails, and even then it exceeded
the force of the wind.
Taking our departure from the mouth of this vast river, on our way back
to Portugal, we directed our course to two large islands and some small
ones, which lay about thirty miles distance from the continent, which we
found quite low, yet full of large and beautiful green trees, and
inhabited by Negroes[10]. Encountering here the same difficulty of
intercourse, for want of knowing their language, we made no stop, but
took our departure for Portugal, where we arrived in safety.
[1] At this place Grynaeus calls him Batrinense; though he had named him
rightly Bati-mansa before.--Astl.
[2] This is now called Cape St Mary.--E.
[3] This seems to allude to what is now called Bald Cape, about twenty
miles south from Cape St Mary, and stretching somewhat farther west;
from which there extends breakers or sunken rocks a considerable
distance from the land.--E.
[4] Between the mouth of the Gambia and that of the Casamansa, there are
three inlets, which appear to be smaller mouths of the latter river.
The most northern of these is named St Peter, the most southerly
Oyster river; the intermediate one has no name.--E.
[5] The actual distance is barely a degree of latitude, or less than
seventy English miles. Cada Mosto probably estimated by the log, the
more circuitous track by sea.--E.
[6] Cada Mosto does not mention the remarkable change which takes place
here in the direction of the coast. From the Gambia to Cape Rosso, the
coast runs direct south; after which its direction is E.S.E. to the
mouth of the river St Ann.--E.
[7] Called in modern charts, Rio S. Dominica.--E.
[8] According to de Faria, Rio Grande was discovered by Nunez Tristan in
1447, nine years before it was visited by Cada Mosto.--Astl.
[9] Cada Mosto is exceedingly superficial in his account of the Rio Grande;
and it even seems dubious if he ever saw or entered this river, as he
appears to have mistaken the navigable channel between the main and
the shoals of the Rio Grande for the river itself; which channel
extends above 150 English miles, from the island of Bulam in the E.S.E.
to the open sea in the W.N.W. This channel agrees with his description,
in being twenty miles wide, whereas the real Rio Grande is greatly
smaller than the Gambia.--E.
[10] These may be the island of Waring and the Marsh islands, at the
north-western entry of the channel of the Rio Grande, forming part of
the Bissagos islands.--E.