Start from Ghât--Reflections--Beautiful Valley of Berket--Last
Date-palms--The Kailouees--Dr. Barth lost again--Meet our Guides--The
Akourou Water--Ghadeer--Soudan Influence on the Tuaricks--Wataitee
leaves us--Oasis of Janet--Kailouee Character--A sick Slave--Rocky
Desert--Gloomy Scene--Servants--Egheree Water--Ajunjer--A threatened
Foray from Janet--Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--We have no Money--Region of
Granite--Dr. Barth's Comparisons--A Slave Caravan--Granite
Rocks--Beating Women--The Bird of the Desert--Desolate Region--Our
Relations with the Kailouees.
The departure from Ghât was, for most of us, an exciting moment. So far
I had considered myself comparatively on familiar ground; for although I
had followed different routes, the great points of Mourzuk and Ghât were
well known to me. Now, however, we were about to enter upon a
region totally unknown, of which no authentic accounts from
eye-witnesses--unless we count the vague reports of natives--had ever
reached us; valleys unexplored; deserts unaffronted; countries which no
European had ever surveyed. Before us, somewhere in the heart of the
Sahara, raised into magnificence perhaps by the mirage of report, was
the unknown kingdom of Aheer, of which Leo Africanus hints something,
but the names of whose great cities are scattered as if at haphazard
over the maps, possibly hundreds of miles out of their right position.
What reception shall we meet with in that untried land? In what light
will its untravelled natives--fierce from ignorance and bigotry--regard
this mission of infidels, coming from latitudes of which they have never
dreamed, with objects unappreciable and perhaps hostile? Will nature
itself be hospitable? Are there no enemies in the climate, no perils
peculiar to the seasons? These questions occupied my mind as the caravan
wound between the last palm-groves of Ghât; and my camel, resuming its
swinging march, went away with its neck advanced like a bowsprit over
this desert sea, which might be scattered with hidden dangers at every
step.
The wind does not always serve at the outset of a voyage. Our first
stage was only of two hours southwards, as far as Berket, a considerable
town, well walled, situate under a low hill, and surrounded with
palm-trees and gardens. The people visited us on our arrival; all proved
troublesome and some insolent. I had heard a better account of them.
Their country is pleasanter than themselves, certainly the most
picturesque piece of desert I have seen since leaving Tripoli. A range
of lofty black mountains extends on the east, with mounds of sand and
smaller hills at their base, dotted with the beautiful ethel-tree; palms
rise in abundance on all sides; gardens surround the wells; and animals
feed about on the plain. The scenery is quite rich, and even suggests
the idea of fertility. The Tuaricks possess many similar fine valleys.
We started late next day from Berket, and made only four hours to a
well. Here it was necessary to wait for Waled Shafou, and the three
extra camels which we have hired to go with us to Aheer. The scenery
resembles that of yesterday; but there is not so much herbage, and the
palms are absent. Probably the date-palms of Berket are the last trees
of this species which we shall see until our return. The olive-district
has long ago been left behind; and now the columnar date-palm is also to
be among the things that were. They report, however, that there is a
diminutive species in Aheer. We shall greet this dwarf-cousin of our old
friend with pleasure.
We are on our way to meet the Kailouee Tuaricks, with whom we have
arranged in Ghât to conduct us by Aheer to Zinder--a service for which
we have already paid a hundred dollars of the money of Ghât. They are a
company of merchants returning to their own country, and although they
will probably protect us to a certain extent, can scarcely inspire so
much confidence as Waled Shafou would have done. We travelled four hours
on the 26th. Dr. Barth was again lost this evening, having pushed on in
his usual eager way for about half an hour. We were filled with alarm.
There were two roads dividing at a certain place, one direct and the
other turning off at an angle. Naturally, the Doctor followed the
straight road, which proved to be the wrong one. However, knowing he had
gone on before, my fears were awakened when we reached the fork; and I
immediately fired several guns, and ordered a search to be commenced.
The guns not only served as guides to Dr. Barth, but introduced us to
the Kailouees, who were close at hand, and came running to meet us.
Their appearance, for I scarcely know what reason, sent a thrill of joy
through our frames; and the weariness and discouragement we had brought
with us from Ghât disappeared. We entertained great hopes of these new
companions. The first impression they produced was good; for they
greeted us most cheerfully, and began helping to unload the camels. They
have several female slaves with them, and muster in all some twenty
persons and about thirty camels; so that, altogether, we shall form a
very respectable caravan.
We rose early on the 27th, and starting at half-past six, continued
moving until noon, when we encamped in a valley a little before the
water of Akourou, where there is herbage for the camels in a hollow
amidst rocky sandstone hills. The scenery of this part of the desert
continues to be very varied. The range of lofty marl hills, over which
the sun rises for Ghât, is still seen stretching northwards and
southwards. Animals feed about here and there; some quails whirr along
the ground; black vultures, white eagles, and numerous crows, perch upon
the rocks, or speckle the sky overhead. I went to visit the "Water," as
they call a small lake that nestles amidst the rocks. It is of some
depth, and filled, they say, merely by rain-water, very palatable to
drink. Even when no showers occur for several years it does not become
quite empty; and as there is no apparent reason for this, I am led to
suppose it may be partly fed by some spring in the rocks that form its
bed. This lake imparts an unusually cheerful aspect to the valley in
which it lies. It is resorted to by the dwellers of the neighbouring
district, who come to water their flocks, and feed them on the herbage
that springs round the margin. These pools or collections of water are
called ghadeer, which I at first mistook for the name of a particular
locality. According to Yusuf, this place gives an exact idea of the
Tibboo country, where, he says, there are no wells, but vast clefts in
the rock, down which pours the water when it rains, to collect in the
hollows at the bottom. Our people speak with great respect of this
ghadeer. Everything connected with water is sacred in the desert. They
say that for several weeks after a rain-storm there are regular cascades
over the rocks.
Next day we advanced in six hours to a wady similar to that we had left;
curiously shaped sandstone rocks showed themselves on all sides: no
fossils were discovered. Asses in droves were seen feeding about. The
Tuaricks possess a good number of these useful animals, brought from
Soudan, of a finer breed than those at Mourzuk. All the domestic animals
of the country are from the same place--the horses, bullocks used to
draw the water from the wells, as well as the sheep and asses. Ghât,
indeed, is within the circle of Soudan influence; the people dress in
Soudan clothes; eat off Soudan utensils; and mingle a great deal of the
Soudan language with their Tuarick dialect. We feel, therefore, as if we
were now going towards a centre instead of from a centre. Mourzuk, on
the contrary, holds itself in connexion with the Arabs of the coast; and
seems to receive no influence from the interior except by means of the
Tibboos, who form a kind of connecting link. There is a considerable
sprinkling of this curious people in the lower portions of the
population of Mourzuk, and there are always some genuine specimens to be
met with in the streets. It may be said, however, that both the capital
of Fezzan and Ghât itself seem rendezvous from all parts of Africa; and
I imagine, that in all the souk (market) cities of the interior the same
fact will be observed. However, it will remain true, no doubt, that
south of Ghât the influence of Soudan will be far more sensibly marked
than on the other side.
The son of Shafou, Mahommed Wataitee, who seems to have made up his mind
to shirk the journey to Aheer, left us this morning to go to Aroukeen
and meet his father, who is encamped with his flocks and dependants
around that well. No doubt it is fashionable in Ghât land to be "out of
town" at this season of the year. Our Kailouees have determined to take
another and more direct road, avoiding Aroukeen and the Azgher Tuaricks
in its neighbourhood. Waled Shafou says, he shall fall in with us
somewhere about Falezlez; but this seems somewhat doubtful. When people
separate in the desert they must not calculate on meeting again in a
hurry. We parted about three hours from the water of Akourou, the road
to Aroukeen branching off there. He took the easterly route and we the
westerly, and we were soon out of sight. Our way still lay through
desert-hills, but with vegetation frequently. There was talk of the
small oasis of Janet to our left; and we indulged in some pastoral
reflections on the life of contemplative ease and primitive simplicity
which would be indulged in in such an out-of-the way place.
We seem to have got into some scrape with the Kailouees. Besides the
hundred dollars which Haj Ibrahim paid them to conduct us from Aheer to
Zinder, it appears he promised them some burnouses, when we have none
for them. They mentioned the subject to-day, very naturally. We must do
as well as we can. They seem civil enough; but an incident has just
occurred which has much displeased me.
It appears that when these people came to Ghât, a few weeks ago, they
left a sick slave with some shepherds among these rocks. To-day they
inquired about the slave, whether she was dead, or what had become of
the poor thing; but the shepherds refused to give any account,--said, in
fact, they knew nothing about the matter. Upon this the Kailouees seized
a black boy belonging to these poor people and dragged him along, with a
rope round his neck, to terrify him into confessing what had become of
the slave. The poor boy, however, had nothing to confess; so at last,
after they had dragged him for some distance, they let him go. Such is a
specimen of the incidents which almost daily occur, arising out of this
horrible traffic. I lectured one of the Kailouees on the subject, and
told him that we were in Tuarick territory, and that such an action
might bring the genuine Tuaricks upon us.
It would appear that the governor of the town of Aghadez, or rather of
the whole Kailouee race, is not known, there having lately been a
revolution in this Saharan region. All the country is up in arms. We
shall arrive at the interesting crisis of a change of dynasty. The two
Sultans of Aheer known, are our friends En-Noor and Lousou.
_27th._--We rose at daybreak and soon started, ascending from the valley
through a difficult pass to a rocky plateau, over which we pursued our
undeviating track for more than nine hours, and pitched our tents in a
small and nameless wady, covered with a sprinkling of herbage. This was
a trying day for the camels, the ground being rough with loose stones.
How different is all this from European notions of a desert, or level
expanse of sand! With some few exceptions, the Sahara is a region
covered by comparatively low, rocky hills, forming valleys here and
there, supplied with trees, and herbage, and water. We are now in a
really uninhabited spot; scarcely a bird is seen, or a lizard, or a
beetle, or any living thing, save a few flies that still follow the
caravan on unwearied wing, and buzz with moderated ferocity about the
noses of the camels.
What fantastic forms did the rock assume to-day! Now its pinnacles
bristled up like a forest of pines; now there seemed to rise the forms
of castles and houses, and even groups of human beings. All this is
black sandstone--hideously black, unlovely, unsociable, savage-looking.
'Tis a mere wilderness of rock, thrown in heaps about, with valleys, or
trenches, or crevices, through which the caravan slowly winds. This is
our first cloudy day. May we have many such! We feel little of the sun's
power, although there is little or no wind. We must have reached a
considerable elevation.
I begin to find it necessary to keep a tight rein over our servants,
otherwise our encampment and party would always be in disorder. Mohammed
Tunisee is a very impertinent fellow at times, and is capable of
spoiling all the others. This evening I gave the Kailouees and their
servants a treat of coffee, which much delighted them. Amongst the rest
was En-Noor's servant. We get on very well with them for the present.
_30th._--We made five hours of very difficult road, winding nearly all
the way through a ravine of the rocky plateau, and finally descended by
a precipitous path, among some rocks, to a small lake or pool enclosed
within immense cliffs of rock, called the Egheree Water. It is produced
solely by rain. Within ten minutes of this, between the cliffs, is
another three times the size, and of the same origin. All about,
moreover, there are little pools of water sparkling amongst the rocks,
left by the recent rain. We encamped in a narrow wady, called Ajunjer,
further on; and propose to remain during the rest of the day and
to-morrow. It has been cool to-day, with wind; the sky clear, of a deep
blue. In the rocky valley we observed a species of hedge-thorn, called
jadāree; also many of the fine large-leafed plants, called baranbakh;
and the sweet-smelling sheeah, that reminded us of home-lavender.
We have been hitherto going on in a quiet, jog-trot way enough, almost
forgetting that the desert has perils, and that we are not in a
civilised land. Now comes something to awaken us out of this dream of
comfort. A courier has arrived from Ghât, bringing the news that one
Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf, the great man of the oasis of Janet--on which
we have been speculating so pastorally--is preparing to come out and
intercept our passage to Soudan, near the well of Tajetterat. This
pleasant intelligence came to us in a letter from Hateetah and Jabour,
who, however, philosophically add that they are not quite sure it is
correct. I rewarded the courier with five reals, and sent him off to
Waled Shafou and the Sultan with the news; begging the former to meet us
certainly at Falezlez, which is about four days from this, whilst
Tajetterat is nearly eight. Janet is now only a day and a-half
south-south-west from our encampment. It is a small oasis, inhabited by
Moors and Tuaricks. The statistics of the place begin to interest us
exceedingly. We are told that there is a good deal of corn grown there,
on account of the abundance of water. Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--whose
voluminous name we found it quite easy to learn under these
circumstances--is cousin of the Sultan Shafou, and a very old man; but
we cannot hope that in these frugal regions the gout will interfere in
our favour, and put a stop to this unprovoked foray.
The weather has been cool to-day. We are on high ground, although in a
wady; and this renders the heat very supportable. The reported attack
keeps our minds occupied, and has a little upset us; but no one talks of
flinching. Besides, this has not been the first alarm, nor will it be
the last. I sent an account of this circumstance so far to Lord
Palmerston by the courier; and should have written much more, had not I
been occupied with the news and with the Kailouees, who have chosen this
occasion to be troublesome. We do not get so much information, by the
way, out of these people as we might expect; they do not know the names
of the wadys and rocks hereabouts, and so pretend they have none.
The hundred dollars which we brought from Mourzuk are now nearly all
gone--I have only eight or ten left. Friend Sidi Jalef Waled
Sakertaf--how unmusical the name sounds!--will get little money from us,
and must content himself with our baggage, if he will play the robber.
For the cousin of a Sultan, fie!
_August 1._--We left Ajunjer early, and made five hours only, because
to-morrow there is no herbage until late in the evening. How tantalising
to be obliged to advance thus by short stages towards an ambuscade! We
take things pretty philosophically, however, and make geological
observations. Overweg (who begins to show signs of weakness) is
delighted that we have at length reached a region of granite. I think I
must have passed a great number of rocks of the same kind between
Ghadamez and Ghât. To the eye of an ordinary observer, some of them have
the same aspect as sandstone, or even limestone. This granite interests
us, especially as in the direct Bornou route there appears to be none at
all.
Dr. Barth compares the Tuaricks of Ghât and the Haghar to lions and
tigers, and the Kailouees to snakes. The comparison well hits off their
outward characteristics, but, as Overweg says, we must not judge of
these people by the ordinary rules of morality, or apply to them an
European standard. I suspect we shall have to put up with still more
extraordinary specimens of human nature.
We were proceeding, engaged in noticing the various colours and forms of
the granite, when there appeared advancing through the ravine ahead a
number of moving figures. At first, of course, we were a little alarmed;
but it turned out to be only a slave caravan--about twenty camels and
forty slaves. One of the little boys had an immensely large head--quite
a phenomenon. We, of course, eagerly questioned the merchants about
Sahara news, and especially as to whether the Tuaricks had made their
appearance at Falezlez or Tajetterat. They had neither seen nor heard of
the hostile party; and perhaps we may hope that all this is a rumour.
However, it looked very like truth; and, possibly, Sidi Jafel may know
perfectly well that there is no occasion to hurry. The Tanelkums are now
about four days in advance of us, and may receive the first brunt of the
attack. These slave-dealers tell us, that from Falezlez to the place
where we are to be robbed and murdered is four days of dismal desert,
without water--suffering before sacrifice. We are getting into the heart
of the Sahara at last. Day by day the stations become more difficult.
Another caravan is to pass in a few days, which may give us more
definite intelligence. I am writing to Government and to my wife; but of
camels I am heartily sick. Gagliuffi's camel still sticks in my throat.
It was the first to knock up. I have left it at Ghât--thirty-eight
mahboubs gone. People want to make a fortune out of my poor expedition.
_2d._--We made a long day of twelve hours, at first between granite
rocks for four hours, and then over a sandy plain. This plain was at
first scattered with pebbles of granite, but finally it became all sand.
The granite rocks were mostly conic in form, and on our right rose one
peak at least six hundred feet high. Further off on the same side, at a
distance, the rocks continued in a range, instead of being scattered
about like so many sugar-loaves placed upon a plane, as mountains are
represented to children. To-day the granite became stratified, or
gneiss; there were also some fine specimens of hornblend.
One of our Kailouee friends amused himself on the road by giving a good
beating to his female slave. These people transact their domestic
affairs in public with the utmost simplicity. They seem to think they
are showing themselves in a favourable light by this brutal conduct, for
I detect glances of pride thrown towards us. Whenever these beatings
occur--which they do at no distant intervals--there is always another
servant, or some one, who attempts to separate the enraged master from
the object of his wrath. In the present instance, interference took
place in time to prevent any very serious consequences; otherwise, I
have no doubt the ruffians would go on exciting themselves, and beating
harder and harder, even until death ensued. We noticed the common black
bird I have already mentioned, with white head and tail. It is indeed
seen everywhere, and may emphatically be called "The Bird of the
Desert!"
Next day, the 3d, we started at daybreak, and made another long day of
nearly twelve hours. It is necessary to hurry over these inhospitable
tracts. After two hours we got among some sand-hills, and continued all
day over the same kind of ground--hill and valley alternating, with here
and there a huge, isolated, granite, rock rising up like an island.
Pebbles strewed the surface of the sandy valleys. I scarcely remember to
have beheld so desolate a region. For two days there has been no water,
and the camels have stretched out their necks in vain for herbage. A
little grass, it is true, was plucked among the sand-hills to-day, and
mixed with the dates, which we are compelled to give to the camels.
These poor beasts are becoming thin and gaunt, from the effects of heat,
fatigue, and especially from the lack of sufficient herbage. Luckily,
cool winds from the south supply the place of the gheblee.
This evening one of the Kailouees challenged me to have a run with him;
I accepted the challenge, and we ran a short distance, to the great
amusement of the people.
Our guides are sociable companions enough. They pointed out to day on
the sand the footsteps of the caravan which we met a few days ago going
to Ghât; and likewise their own footsteps, left when they passed by that
way a month and a half since.