CHAPTER I._Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1 Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government

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NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA

PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51,

UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.

BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON,

AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA."

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:

CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY.

MDCCCLIII.

LONDON:

Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq.

PREFACE.

The task of the Editor of these volumes has been principally one of

arrangement and compression. The late lamented Mr. James Richardson left

behind him a copious journal, comprised in eight small but

closely-written volumes, besides a vast heap of despatches and scattered

memoranda; and, at first sight, it seemed to me that it would be

necessary to melt the whole down into a narrative in the third person.

On attentively studying the materials before me, however, I perceived

that Mr. Richardson had written in most places with a view to

publication; and that, had he lived, he would soon have brought what, on

a cursory examination, appeared a mere chaotic mass, into a shape that

would have accorded with his own idea of a book of travels. Such being

the case, I thought it best--in order to leave the stamp of authenticity

on this singular record of enterprise--to do little more than the author

would himself have done. In the form of a diary, therefore--written

sometimes with Oriental _naïveté_--the reader will here find what may be

called the domestic history of one of the most successful expeditions

undertaken for the exploration of Central Africa. I believe it would

have been possible to get up a work of more temporary interest from the

same materials; but this could only have been done by sacrificing

truthfulness of detail. In the present form, Mr. Richardson's journal

will always remain as an authority on the geography and present

condition of a large portion of the Saharan desert, hitherto unvisited,

at any rate undescribed.

As will be seen, the Mission was accompanied by two German gentlemen,

Drs. Barth and Overweg--the former, of whom I had the pleasure of

meeting in Egypt, after his enterprising ride along the coast of Libya.

They are still in Central Africa, pushing their excursions on all sides,

from Bornou into unknown tracts; and the accounts they may publish on

their return will be anxiously looked for. The great traverse of the

Saharan desert, however, with all its vicissitudes and dangers, the

physical aspect of that wonderful region, and the manners of the various

tribes that inhabit it, will, in the present volume, be found to be

fully described--not, it is true, with much attempt at literary

ornament, but in the vivid though simple language in which a man sets

down impressions which he has just received. I have endeavoured to

remove all the faults which may be supposed to have arisen from haste or

carelessness, and have necessarily re-written several passages, and

passed a correcting pen over the whole manuscript. But I think I may say

with confidence, that there is no observation or statement in the

following pages which cannot be justified by a reference to the original

journals and scattered memoranda.

To me this simple record of daily occurrences seems highly interesting.

It divides itself, naturally, into a succession of parts of unequal

importance. First comes an account of the journey to Mourzuk, the

capital of Fezzan, containing the traverse of the frightful Hamadah or

plateau which separates that province from the regency of Tripoli. Then

we have a residence at Mourzuk itself, Mr. Richardson being obliged to

wait the arrival from Ghât of an escort of Tuarick chieftains, with whom

he had partly made acquaintance during a former trip in the desert. This

escort appeared after some delay; and the Mission proceeded across the

Fezzan plains to the independent state of Ghât, through a very wild and

picturesque country. At this point began, if not the most arduous, at

any rate the most dangerous, and at the same time the most novel, part

of the journey. Mr. Richardson had undertaken, on his way to Soudan

Proper (his first destination), to pass by the hitherto unexplored

kingdom of Aheer or Asben, situated towards the southern limits of the

Sahara. The march of the Mission across the deserts that lie between

Ghât and that territory was rendered exciting by continual reports of

danger from pursuing freebooters of the Haghar and Azgher tribes; but

the enemy were outstripped, and no actual attack took place until the

first inhabited districts of Aheer were reached. Here some lawless

tribes levied black-mail, on the caravan, which was then permitted to

proceed, though in doubt and alarm, until it arrived under the

long-expected protection of Sheikh En-Noor, one of the great chiefs of

the Kailouee tribes, at his town, or rather encampment, of Tintalous.

Mr. Richardson's residence at this place was long and tedious. He

suffered, besides, from the extortionate disposition of the Sheikh or

Sultan, who, however, after considerable exactions, became his friend.

This Saharan character is brought out by a succession of amusing

touches. But our traveller was impatient to proceed, and seems to have

hailed with delight the announcement that the great Salt-Caravan, which

annually transports the necessary condiment from Bilma _viâ_ Aheer to

the south, was about to start, and that the Sheikh and the Christians

were to accompany it. Some further disappointments occurred, but at

length the Mission proceeded to Damerghou, whence Drs. Barth and Overweg

went, one to Maradee and the other to Kanou, whilst Mr. Richardson

proceeded alone to Zinder, situated in the province of Damagram. Here he

was well received by the Sarkee, or Governor, and he dilates with

well-founded exultation on his escape from the insolent and rapacious

Tuaricks. Sad sights, however, connected with the slave-trade, checked

his delight. During his stay the Sarkee went out in person to hunt down

the subjects of his own sovereign, that he might pay his debts by

selling them into captivity. After another considerable delay Mr.

Richardson was enabled to start once more, and being obliged to change

his original plan proceeded to Kuka, the capital of Bornou, by way of

Minyo. Shortly after leaving Gurai, the chief town of that province, the

unfortunate traveller found his strength to be gradually giving way. He

had already previously complained of the heat and fatigue, but did not

seem to have felt any great alarm. Now, however, the climate seems to

have told upon him with sudden and fatal violence. His last moments are

described in a letter from his fellow-traveller, Dr. Barth, who hastened

to the spot with laudable energy as soon as he heard of the melancholy

catastrophe that had taken place. Mr. Richardson died at Ungurutua,

about six days' journey from Kuka, the capital of Bornou, on the 4th of

March, 1851, eleven months after his departure from Tripoli.

I have observed that the Mission, the first transactions of which are

described in these volumes, is entitled to be called successful.

Although the original promoter and director died just as he was on the

point of reaching the termination of his journey, his enterprising

companions, Drs. Barth and Overweg, seem to have carried on and

developed admirably the plan at first laid down. If they be spared to

return to Europe they will bring home, no doubt, geographical

information so valuable that all Mr. Richardson's predictions will be

found to be amply fulfilled. As it is, however, the object of our

practical fellow-countryman may be said to have been accomplished. He

did not lay so much stress on the accurate determination of latitude and

longitude, of the heights of mountains and the courses of valleys, as on

matters that come more nearly home to human sympathies. The abolition of

the system of slavery--many affecting illustrations of which will be

found in these volumes--seems to have engaged the chief of his

attention. It was with this benevolent object that he originally turned

his attention to Africa; and he had become convinced that the best means

of effecting it was to encourage legitimate traffic between Europe and

the great nurseries of slaves. Among other things, he wished to show the

possibility of entering into treaties of amity and commerce with the

most important states of Central Africa; and although these treaties may

not turn out to be of great immediate utility, it is always worth while

that future explorers should know, that on the borders of Lake Tchad

there is a power which professes to be united with England in formal

ties of friendship, and that the Sultan of Bornou has never shown any

disposition to break his promises or secede from his engagements. As to

the question, whether legitimate commerce can advantageously be carried

on across the Sahara, and substituted for the frightful traffic in human

beings, I do not consider that it is as yet decided; but Mr.

Richardson's researches will throw great light on this interesting

subject.

I do not intend here to attempt an account of the services rendered by

Mr. Richardson to the sciences of geography and ethnography during his

useful career. At some future period, no doubt, this task will be

performed; and it will not fail to be added, that he was always impelled

by a higher motive than the mere satisfaction of curiosity or ambition.

A profound conviction that something might be done towards ameliorating

the condition of the African nations, if we were only better acquainted

with them, seems to have early possessed him. This it was that sustained

and guided his footsteps; and all who knew him unite in testifying that

he concealed beneath a pleasant, cheerful exterior, the character of a

Christian gentleman, and an ardent crusader against the worst form of

oppression which has ever been put in practice. The hope that the public

will unite in this opinion must certainly assist in consoling his widow

for the loss which she has sustained. Mrs. Richardson is alluded to in

the narrative throughout. It is necessary, therefore, to say, that that

lady remained in Tripoli until the news of her bereavement reached her,

and that she then returned to England to promote the erection of this

best monument to her husband's memory.

I have now only to add an account written by Dr. Barth (dated April 3,

1851) of the death of Mr. Richardson, in a letter addressed to Mr.

Crowe, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul-General at Tripoli. The German

traveller, as will be seen in the second volume of this work, had

separated from his English companions on the plains of Damerghou, and

proceeded to prosecute other researches, the results of which will be

looked for with great interest:--

"It was on the 25th of March," he says, "that I heard

accidentally from a Shereef, whom I met on the road, the sad

news that my companion had died, about twenty days before,

in a place called Ungurutua, six days' journey before

reaching Kuka, when I hurried on as fast as my horse would

allow in order to secure his papers and effects from being

lost or destroyed.

"I now shall send you a short account of Mr. Richardson's

death, as far as I was able to make out the circumstances

from his servant. Mr. Richardson is said to have left Zinder

in the best health, though it is probable that he felt

already very weak while he was there: for, according to the

man whom he hired in Zinder as his dragoman, he had, while

there, a dream that a bird came down from the sky, and when

sitting on the branch of a tree, the branch broke off and

the bird fell down to the earth. Mr. Richardson being very

much affected by this dream, went to a man who from a huge

book explains to the people their dreams. On the man's

telling him that his dream meant death, he seems really to

have anticipated that he would not reach the principal

object of his journey. But, nevertheless, he seemed to be

quite well, mounting even the horse which the Governor of

Zinder had made him a present of, as far as Minyo, when he

begged the Governor to give him a camel, which he mounted

thenceforward. He felt notoriously ill in Kadalebria, eleven

or twelve days' journey from here (Kuka); and he is said by

his servant to have taken different kinds of medicines, one

after the other: from which you may conclude that he did not

know himself what was his illness. Mr. Richardson never

could bear the sun, and the sun being very powerful at this

time of the year, it must have affected him very much. I

think this to be the chief reason of his death; at least, he

seems not to have had a regular fever. He was happy to reach

the large town of Rangarvia after a journey of three short

days, and had the intention of returning from here directly

to Tripoli, without touching at Kuka and the low, hot plain

of Bornou, which he was affrightened of very much. He

offered two hundred mahboubs for a guide to conduct him

directly to the road to Bilma; but there being no road from

here, and no guide having been found, it was necessary first

to go to Kuka.

"Mr. Richardson, therefore, seems to have taken strong

medicines; in consequence of which, in the evening of the

third day of their halt at Rangarvia, after having taken a

walk through the town, he felt well enough to fix his outset

for the next morning. But this day being rather a long one,

and the sun being very powerful, he became very tired and

unwell; and the more so as, notwithstanding his illness, he

had not left off drinking milk, even on his camel, mixing

some brandy with it. Having recovered a little during the

night, he moved on the next morning, but ordered a halt

about noon, on account of his weakness. Having started again

at sunset, they encamped at midnight. The next day, after a

short journey, they reached the Wady Mettaka. Mr. Richardson

seemed to feel much better, and drank milk and a little

jura, besides rice. From this place, on the last day of

Kebia-el-awel, the caravan, after but a two-hours' march,

reached the village called Ungurutua, when Mr. Richardson

soon felt so weak that he anticipated his death; and leaving

the hut (where he was established) for his tent, told his

dragoman, Mahommed Bu Saad, that he would die. Being

consoled by him that his illness was of no consequence, he

assured him several times that he had no strength at all;

and indeed his pulse ceased almost to beat. He began, then,

to rub his feet with vinegar, and applied the same several

times to his head and shoulders. After which, in the absence

of his servants, he poured water also over himself; so that,

when they returned after a few moments, they found him quite

wet. To counteract the bad effect of this proceeding, they

began to rub him with a little oil. In the evening he took a

little food, and tried to sleep; but notwithstanding that he

seems to have taken something to bring on sleep, he threw

himself restless from one side to the other, calling his

wife several times by her name. After having walked out of

his tent with the assistance of his servant, he ordered tea,

and remained restless on his bed. When it was past midnight,

his old dragoman, Yusuf Moknee, who watched in his tent,

made some coffee, in order to keep himself awake; upon which

Mr. Richardson demanded a cup of coffee for himself; but his

hand being so weak that he could scarcely raise the cup, he

said to Moknee: '_Tergamento Ufa_,'--'Your office as

dragoman is finished;' and repeated several times, with a

broken voice, '_Forza mafishe, forza mafishe le-koul_,'--'I

have no strength, I have no strength, I tell you,' at the

same time laying Mahommed's hand on his shoulder. Feeling

death approaching, he got up in a sitting posture, being

supported by Mahommed, and soon expired, after three times

deep breathing. He was entirely worn out, and died quietly,

about two after midnight, Tuesday, 4th March

(Jumed-el-awel), without the least struggle. His servant

then called into the tent the other people and the Kashalla,

or officer of the Sheikh, who had come along with them from

Zinder, in order to be witness, and while wrapping the body

of the deceased in three shirts which they had cut up,

ordered the people of the village to dig a grave for him.

They then shut up whatever of the luggage of Mr. Richardson

was not locked up, and prepared everything for their journey

to Kuka. Early in the morning they lifted the body, wrapped

up as it was, upon Mr. Richardson's carpet, and carried him

to his grave, which had been dug in the shade of a large

gaw, close to the village, to the depth of four feet. Having

then covered his head and breast with a very large tabah, so

as to protect it from every side, they covered the body with

earth, and had the grave well secured. I have spoken several

times with Haj Beshir that it might be well taken care of,

and I am sure the grave of the traveller, who sacrificed his

life for his great object, will be respected. I send you

with this first kafila all Mr. Richardson's papers and his

journal, which is kept till the 21st February, consisting of

six reams, and his vocabularies, not finished, four reams,

with Yusuf's journal, as well as all his other papers or

letters. I have taken out only the letters of recommendation

of the Mission and the papers concerning the treaty to be

made, as well as a letter from Lousou, one of the Tuaricks,

and another from Ibrahim, the Governor of Zinder, to the

Queen, which I shall enclose in my report to Government. I

send you, besides, an authentic list of all the objects

found in Mr. Richardson's possession, as it has been made up

on the things being deposited with Haj Beshir.

"I beg you to assure Mrs. Richardson of my most sincere

sympathy, and that I hope she will find a good deal of

consolation in the rich journal of the deceased."

I have given the above narrative in the words of Dr. Barth; but must

direct the reader's attention to vol. ii. p. 261, where he will find

that the whole account of the prophetic dream is distorted by the very

unauthentic medium of Oriental report. There is no reason to suppose

that Mr. Richardson was unusually affected by this circumstance,

although any dismal suggestion is likely to disturb a person of

sensibility placed in a dangerous position. The remaining facts, as they

seem confirmed by concurrent testimony, may be taken as a sufficiently

accurate account of the death of this lamented traveller.

From the statements which have from time to time appeared in the press,

the public are already aware, that the presents and the treaty intended

for the Sheikh of Bornou were duly presented and accepted, and that the

boat which caused Mr. Richardson so much anxiety on the road was

ultimately launched, as he desired, on lake Tchad, and employed in the

survey of that celebrated piece of water. It is unnecessary here to

notice the results of this survey, or of the explorations subsequently

undertaken by Messrs. Barth and Overweg. These gentlemen, it is to be

hoped, will be more fortunate than their colleague, and return to give

in person an account of their exertions and discoveries.

I shall conclude by expressing my hope that Mr. Richardson's reputation

will not suffer from the way in which I have superintended the

publication of his remains, and my regret that I am not able to do

justice to the great services which he has rendered to philology by his

copious collections of vocabularies of the languages, both of the Sahara

and of the various kingdoms of Central Africa.

BAYLE ST. JOHN,

_London, January 1853._

P.S. It may be as well to mention that the extensive collections of

vocabularies made by Mr. Richardson are now preserved at the Foreign

Office, together with specimens of translations from the Scriptures. All

these collections are extremely valuable, but especially those of the

Bornou language, which were much wanted.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Origin of the Missions--Its Objects and Plan--Preparations--Arrival at

Tripoli--Prussian Colleagues--Necessary Delay--The Boat for Lake

Tchad--Wind-bound--Anxieties at Tripoli--Correspondence with Mourzuk and

Ghât--Circular Letter of Izhet Pasha--Composition of the Caravan--An

aristocratic Interpreter--A Mohammedan Toper--The Chaouches--Free Blacks

returning to their Countries--Marabout--Camel-drivers--Rate of Desert

travelling--Trade of Tripoli with the Interior--Slavery--Caravans from

Central Africa--Details on Commerce--Promotion of legitimate

Traffic--Spread of Civilisation.

CHAPTER II.

Start from the Masheeah--Painful Parting--Chaouch's Tent--A Family

Quarrel--Wady Majeeneen--A Rainy Day--Moknee's Wives--Two mad

Fellows--Great Ascent of Gharian--Tedious Day's Work--The

Castle--View over the Country--Garrison--Troglodytes--Turkish

Tax-gathering--Quarrelsome Servants--Proceed over the lofty

Plain--Underground Villages--Kaleebah--The Batoum--Geology--A Slave

Caravan--Cheerful Blacks--Rows--Oasis of Mizdah--Double

Village--Intestine Discords--Interview with the Sheikh Omer--A Pocket

Province--A Dream of Good Omen--Quarrels on Quarrels--Character of

Fezzanees--A Leopard abroad.

CHAPTER III.

Leave Mizdah--Gloomy Country--Matrimonial Squabbles in the

Caravan--"Playing at Powder"--Desert Geology--A Roman Mausoleum--Sport--A

Bully tamed--Fatiguing March--Wady Taghijah--Our old Friend the

Ethel-Tree--The Waled Bou Seif--Independent Arabs--A splendid

Mausoleum--One of the Nagahs foals--Division of a Goat--March over a

monotonous Country--Valley of Amjam--Two new Trees--Saluting the New

Moon--Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah--Wady Tubooneeah--Travelling

Flies--The Desert Hour--A secluded Oasis--Buying Barley--Ghareeah--Roman

Remains--Oasian Cultivation--Taxation--Sand-Pillar--Arrangements for

crossing the Hamadah--An _Emeute_ in the Caravan--Are compelled to

discharge the quarrelsome Ali.

CHAPTER IV.

Commence crossing the Hamadah--Last Pillar of the Romans--Travelling in

the Desert--Rapid March--Merry Blacks--Dawn--Temperature--Ali

returns--Day-travelling--Night-feelings--Animals--Graves of

Children--Mirage--Extent of the Plateau--It breaks up--Valley of

El-Hasee--Farewell to the Hamadah--Arduous Journey--The

Camel-drivers--New Country--Moral and religious Disquisitions--The

Chaouches--Reach Edree--Abd-el-Galeel--Description of Edree--Subterranean

Dwellings--Playing at Powder--The Kaïd--Arabic Literature--Desertion of

the Zintanah--Leave Edree--Sandy Desert--Bou Keta the Camel-driver--Wady

El-Makmak--The Lizard--Reach Wady Takadafah--Sand--Another _Embroglio_.

CHAPTER V.

More sandy Desert--Fatiguing March--Water and

Herbage--Water-drinking--Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk--Hot

Wind--Arrival in El-Wady--Tuaricks--Laghareefah--Fezzanees--The Chaouches

astray--The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady--Description of the Oasis--Tempest--Native

Huts--Official Visits--Desert News--Camel-drivers--Ruins of Azerna--Move

on--The Kaïd--Modest Requests--Ladies of the Wady--Leave the Oasis--Vast

Plain--Instinct of the Camel--Reach Agar--Reception--Precede the

Caravan--Reach Mourzuk--Mr. Gagliuffi--Honours paid to the Mission--Acting

Pasha--Climate--Route from Tripoli--Its Division into Zones--Rain in the

Desert.

CHAPTER VI.

The Oasis of Fezzan--Population--Ten Districts--Their Denomination and

Condition--Sockna--Honn--Worm of the Natron Lakes--Zoueelah--Mixed

Race--Improvements in Mourzuk--Heavy Ottoman Yoke--Results of the

Census--Amount of Revenue--Military Force--Arab Cavaliers--Barracks--Method

of Recruiting--Turkish System superior to French--Razzias--Population of

Mourzuk--Annual Market--Articles of Traffic--Acting-Governor and his

Coadjutors--Story of a faithless Woman--Transit Duties in Fezzan--Slave

Trade--Sulphur in the Syrtis--Proposed Colony from Malta.

CHAPTER VII.

DIARY OF A RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK.

Sickness of Gagliuffi--Baggage left at Mizdah--Runthar Aga--The

Hospital--Various Visits--Arrival of the New Governor--Animated

Scene--Correspondence--Visit Mustapha Agha--Bragging Sheikh Boro--Tibboos

of Tibesty--Curious Country--Presents to Turkish Functionaries--A

Woman divorced--Haj Lameen--Presents expected--Brilliant

Atmosphere--Water-Melons--The Gardens--Winnowing Grain--Houses

of Salt Mud--Nymphs of the Gardens--Wells--Presents to

Functionaries--Phrenology--Queen's Birthday--Walks in the Orchards and

Gardens--Corn-threshing--Kingdom of Aheer--Ass's Head--A Wedding--A

Funeral--Great Dinner--Tibboos--Prepare to depart--The Pilgrim Caravan;

its Privileges--Tuat and the French--Departure of Germans--Wife of

Es-Sfaxee--An Arab Saying--Letters--Disease--Arrival of Escort--Eastern

Consulates--Business--Hateetah--The Son of Shafou--Poor Sheikhs--Hard

Bargain.

CHAPTER VIII.

Wars in the Interior--Anticipated Disputes--Mr. Boro of Aghadez--Our

Treatment at Mourzuk--Mustapha Bey--Start for Ghât--Row with the

Escort--Fine Weather--Leave Tesaoua--Sharaba--Travelling in the

Heat--Hateetah and the Germans--The Camels--Snakes--Journey

continued--Nature of the Country--Complete Desert--Rain--Overtake

the Caravan--Interview with Boro--Pool of Ailouah--The

Tanelkums--Halt--Birds--Bir Engleez--Wind in the Desert--Begging

Escort--Brilliant Heavens--News from Ghât--The Pilgrims

again--Bas-relief of Talazaghe--Moved over the

Desert--Mountains--Extraordinary Pass--Central Table-land of Fezzan.

CHAPTER IX.

Plain of Taeeta--Fezzan Boundary--Fossils--Tuarick Behaviour--Valley of

Tabea--Observations--Fasting--Tuarick Habits--Scorpions and

Locusts--Visitors--Heat--Roads--Hot Wind--Pass of Abulaghlagh--The

Palace of Demons--Wheat hid in the Desert--Land of Demons--Kasar

Janoon--A dear Camel--Visit to the Kasar--Perilous Adventure of Dr.

Barth.

CHAPTER X.

Approach Ghât--Description of the Town--The Oasis--Reminiscences of a

former Visit--Azgher Tuaricks--The Governor--Political Authority--The

Sheikhs--Protection of Strangers--The Litham--Business--Reception--Meetings

of Sheikhs--Disputes--Tax on liberated Slaves--Extortion practised on

us--Discussion on the Treaty--Scramble for Presents--Haj Ahmed

disinterested--Hateetah plays double--More Presents and further

Annoyances--Mahommed Kafa--Escort of Kailouees--A Visit from Ouweek and

the Bandit of Ghadamez--Observations on the Treaty--Collection of

Dialogues--The Great Exhibition.

CHAPTER XI.

Start from Ghât--Reflections--Beautiful Valley of Berket--Last

Date-palms--The Kailouees--Dr. Barth lost again--Meet our Guides--The

Akourou Water--Ghadeer--Soudan Influence on the Tuaricks--Wataitee

leaves us--Oasis of Janet--Kailouee Character--A sick Slave--Rocky

Desert--Gloomy Scene--Servants--Egheree Water--Ajunjer--A threatened

Foray from Janet--Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--We have no Money--Region of

Granite--Dr. Barth's Comparisons--A Slave Caravan--Granite

Rocks--Beating Women--The Bird of the Desert--Desolate Region--Our

Relations with the Kailouees.

CHAPTER XII.

Reach Falezlez--Dates left in the Desert--Road-marks--Disputes with the

Kailouees--News from Tidek--Scarcity of Food in Aheer--Similitudes and

Signs of the Tuaricks--Fine Climate--Arrival of Wataitee--His

Boasting--Saharan travelling--My Umbrella--Grasping Son of

Shafou--Geology of the Desert--The "Person who gives"--Another

Caravan--Tuarick Sportsmen--Wady Aroukeen--Fine Scene--New

Trees--Kailouee Camels--Fine Nights--Well--New Moon--Passing a Caravan

in the Desert--Origin of the Kailouee Tuaricks--Arrive at Tajetterat--No

Robbers--An Alarm--Well of Esalan--Senna--Birds--Graves of Slave

Children--Our Grievances against the Tuaricks.

CHAPTER XIII.

News of Sidi Jafel--Disputes with Wataitee--His violent Conduct and

strange Language--The Desert--Scarcity of Money--Proceed through a rocky

Country--Soudan Weather--Approach the Frontiers of Aheer--Storm--Hard

Day's Travelling--The Seven Wells of Aisou--"The Haghar are

coming"--Suspicious Characters--Alarm--The Three Strangers--Our

Hospitality--Heat of the Weather--Hard Travelling--Account of the

Kailouee Guides--Women of the Caravan--Their Treatment--Youthful

Concubines--Another long Day--A Rock-Altar--Demonstrations of the

Haghar--Wells of Jeenanee--Marks of Rain--Sprightly Blacks--New

Climate--Change in the Vegetation and the Atmosphere.

CHAPTER XIV.

Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer--Hostile Tuaricks--An impudent

Demand--The Merchant Waldee--Prepare for Defence--Threatening

Appearances--Making Friends with Presents--March--Leave

Waldee--Doubtful Visitors--The Camels stolen--The Troop of Assailants

draws nigh--Parley--Their Proposition--We are compelled to a

Compromise--Character of our Enemies--Sinister Rumours again--Proceed

toward Tidek--Wady of Kaltadak--Picturesque Scenery--A Friend from

Seloufeeat--Fresh Mob collects to attack us--Conferences--We are to be

let go scot-free if we become Muslims--We repose--Another Compromise for

Money--Incidents during the Night--Quarrel over the Booty--Enter the

Valley of Seloufeeat--Its Soudan Appearance--Nephew of Sultan

En-Noor--Haj Bashaw of Seloufeeat--We are still uneasy.

CHAPTER XV.

Leave Seloufeeat--"City of Marabouts"--Fair Promises--People

of Aheer--Aspect of the Country--Extraordinary Reports--A

Flying Saint--Prophecies--A Present--Expense of our forced

Passage--Hopes--Fears--The Marabouts--Geology--The coming down of the

Wady--Inundation--Restoration of our Camels--Maharees from

En-Noor--El-Fadeea--Arab Tuaricks--Maghata--Picturesque Wady--Rainy

Season--Another Flood--Dangerous Position--Kailouees and Blacks--The

Escort arrives--The Marabout Population--Reported Brigands--The Walad

Suleiman--Pleasant Valley--Escort leave us--Difficulty of satisfying

them--Robbery--Proceed to Tintalous--Encampment--The Sultan--A

Speech--We wait in vain for Supper--Want of Food.

CHAPTER XVI.

Promises of the Sultan--Yellow-painted Women--Presents--Anecdotes--Prepare

to visit En-Noor--Our Reception--Dialogue--Seeming Liberality of the

Sultan--Greediness of his People--No Provisions to be got--Fat

Women--Nephew of the Sultan--Tanelkum Beggars--Weather--A Divorced

Lady--Aheer Money--Our Camels again stolen--Account of the

Tanelkums--Huckster Women--Aheer Landscape--Various Causes

of Annoyance--No News of the Camels--Anecdote of my

Servants--Storms--Revolution in the Desert--Name of the

Country--Dr. Overweg--Money and Tin--Saharan Signs--Habits of the

Rain--Burial of a Woman--Demands of Es-Sfaxee--Salt-cakes of

Bilma--People of Tintalous--Wild Animals--List of Towns and

Villages--Population of Aheer and Ghât.

CHAPTER XVII.

Zinder Caravan--Negress playing "Boree"--Curious Scene--Objects

of Barter--Fresh Annoyances--Remarks on our Reception in

Aheer--En-Noor--Asoudee--Better News--Fresh Extortions--En-Noor

disappoints us--Europeans taken for Spies--Things in demand at

Aheer--Exercise--Overweg's Patients--Wild Animals in Aheer--Kailouees in

dry Weather--Robbing a Prince--Ghaseb and Ghafouley--Aheer

Cheese--Mokhlah Bou Yeldee--Our Wealth noised abroad--Alarm at Night--A

fresh Attack--Saïd's Gallantry--Disorderly Protectors--Thirteen

Robbers--Amankee--Loss of my Tea--Country of Thieves.

CHAPTER XVIII.

We shift our Encampment--En-Noor's Circular--The Kadi's Decision--No

Progress in the Sahara--Aghadez Gumruk--Scorpions--Election of Sultans

in Aheer--Present of Salutation--Paying for finding lost

Property--Courier from the new Sultan--No Presents sent us--Notes on

Denham--A Bornouese Measure--Intended Razzia--Firing off

Gunpowder--Hypotheses of Danger--Dress and Women--Enroute to

Bilma--Soudan Caravan--Visit from Tintaghoda--Aheer Honey--Modes of

Measurement--Power of En-Noor--Visits to him from great People--Stations

on the Bilma Road--Salt-Trade--Account of our Pursuers at

Tajetterat--Costume of the Kailouees--Their Weapons--Poisoned

Arrows--Charms--Female Dress--Names of Articles of Costume--Character of

Kailouees.

CHAPTER XIX.

Rainstorm--Overtures from En-Noor--Another Interview--Aheer Fashions--A

great Lady--Hoisting the British Flag--A devoted Slave--Sultan of

Asoudee--Attack on a Caravan--Purposed Razzia--Desert News--Buying

Wives--A peculiar Salutation--Oasis of Janet--New Razzias--Costume of

the Sultan--The Milky Way--Noise at a Wedding--Unquiet Nights--Sickness

in the Encampment--A captive Scorpion--Nuptial Festivities--An insolent

Haghar--Prejudice about Christians--Movements in Aheer--Bullocks.

[Illustration: OUTLINE OF PART OF AFRICA showing progress of the

Mission]

NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA.