He could look down from it, I remember, over roofs and chimneys, through
some sordid gap, at an abased prospect that quite failed to beckon—that
of the James River embanked in snow and attended by waterside industries
that, in the brown haze of the weather, were dingy and vague. There had
been an indistinct sign for him—“somewhere there” had stood the Libby
prison; an indication that flung over the long years ever so dreary a
bridge. He lingered to take it in—from so far away it came, the strange
apparition in the dress of another day; and with the interest of noting
at the same time how little it mattered for any sort of intensity
(whether of regret or of relief) that the structure itself, so sinister
to the mind’s eye, should have materially vanished. It was still there
enough to parade its poor ghosts, but the value of the ghosts,
precisely, was that they consented, all alike, on either side, to the
grand epic dimness. I recognize, moreover, with the lapse of time, the
positive felicity of my not having to connect them with the ruin of a
particular squalid tobacco-house. The concrete, none the less, did, in
the name of history, await me, and I indeed recollect pursuing it with
pertinacity, for conscience’ sake, all the way down a wide, steep
street, a place of traffic, of shops and offices and altogether shabby
Virginia vehicles, these last in charge of black teamsters who now
emphasized for me with every degree of violence that already-apprehended
note of the negro really at home. It fades, it melts away, with a
promptitude of its own almost, any random reflection of the American
picture; and though the restless analyst has arts of _his_ own for
fixing and saving it—as he at least on occasion fondly flatters
himself—he is too often reduced to wondering what it can have consisted
of in a given case save exactly that projected light of his conscience.
Richmond—_there_ at least was a definite fact—is a city of more or less
nobly-precipitous hills, and he recalls, of his visit to the avenue
aforesaid, no intellectual consequence whatever but the after-sense of
having remounted it again on the opposite side.
It was in succession to this, doubtless, that he found himself
consulting the obscure oracle of the old State House or Capitol, seat of
the Confederate legislature, strange intellectual centre of the general
enterprise. I scarce know in what manner I had expected it to regale
either my outward or my inward sense; one had vaguely heard that it was
“fine” and at the height, or in the key, of the old Virginian dignity.
The approach to it had been adorned, from far back, moreover, as one
remembered, with Crawford’s celebrated monument to Washington attended
by famous Virginians—which work indeed, I promptly perceived, answered
to its reputation, with a high elegance that was quite of the
mid-century, and yet that, indescribably archaic, made the mid-century
seem remote and quaint and queer, as disconnected from us as the
prolific age of Cyprus or of Crete. It is positive that of the “old”
American sculpture, about the Union, a rich study might be made. What
shall I say of this spot at large, and of the objects it presented to
view, if not that here, where all the elements of life had been most in
fiery fusion, everything was somehow almost abjectly frigid and thin?
The small shapeless Square, ancient acropolitan seat, ill placed on its
eminence, showed, I recollect, but a single figure in motion—that of a
gentleman to whom I presently put a question and who explained to me
that the Capitol, masked all round in dense scaffolding, though without
a labourer visible, had been “very bad,” a mere breakable shell, and was
now, from top to bottom, in course of reconstruction. The shell, one
could see, was empty and work suspended; and I had never, truly, it
seemed to me, seen a human institution so coldly and logically brought
low as this memorial mass, anything rewritten so mercilessly small as
this poor passage of a great historic text. The effect was as of a page
of some dishonoured author—printed “on grey paper with blunt type,” and
when I had learned from my informant that a fairly ample white house, a
pleasant, honest structure in the taste of sixty or eighty years since,
had been Jefferson Davis’s official residence during part of the War,
every source of interest had been invoked and had in its measure
responded. The impression obeys, I repeat, a rigorous law—it
irremediably fades, it melts away; but was there not, further, as a
feature of the scene, one of those decent and dumb American churches
which are so strangely possessed of the secret of minimizing, to the
casual eye, the general pretension of churches?
The extent to which the American air affects one as a non-conductor of
such pretensions is, in the presence of these heterogeneous objects, a
constant lively lesson. Looking for the most part no more established or
seated than a stopped omnibus, they are reduced to the inveterate
bourgeois level (that of private, accommodated pretensions merely) and
fatally despoiled of the fine old ecclesiastical arrogance. This, the
richest attribute they elsewhere enjoy, keeps clear of them only to
betray them, so that they remind one everywhere of organisms trying to
breathe in the void, or of those creatures of the deep sea who change
colour and shrink, as one has heard, when astray in fresh water. The
fresh water makes them indeed pullulate, but to the loss of
“importance,” and nothing could more have fallen in with that
generalization, for the restless analyst, than the very moral of the
matter, as he judged, lately put before him at the national capital.
Washington already bristles, for the considering eye, with national
affirmations—big builded forms of confidence and energy; but when you
have embraced them all, with the implication of all the others still to
come, you will find yourself wondering what it is you so oddly miss.
Numberless things are represented, and one interest after the other
counts itself in; the great Congressional Library crowns the hill beside
the Capitol, the Departments and Institutes cover their acres and square
their shoulders, the obelisk to the memory of Washington climbs still
higher; but something is absent more even than these masses are
present—till it at last occurs to you that the existence of a religious
faith on the part of the people is not even remotely suggested. Not a
Federal dome, not a spire nor a cornice pretends to any such symbolism,
and though your attention is thus concerned with a mere negative, the
negative presently becomes its sharp obsession. You reach out perhaps in
vain for something to which you may familiarly compare your unsatisfied
sense. You liken it perhaps not so much to a meal made savourless by the
failure of some usual, some central dish, as to a picture, nominally
finished, say, where the canvas shows, in the very middle, with all
originality, a fine blank space.
For it is most, doubtless, the æsthetic appetite in you—long richly fed
elsewhere—that goes unassuaged; it is your sense of the comprehensive
picture _as_ a comprehensive picture that winces, for recognition of
loss, like a touched nerve. What is the picture, collectively seen, you
ask, but the portrait, more or less elaborated, of a multitudinous
People, of a social and political order?—so that the effect is, for all
the world, as if, with the body and the limbs, the hands and feet and
coat and trousers, all the accessories of the figure showily painted,
the neat white oval of the face itself were innocent of the brush. You
marvel at the personage, you admire even the painting—which you are
largely reduced, however, to admiring in the hands and the boots, in the
texture of accompanying table-cloth, inkstand, newspaper (introduced
with a careless grace) and other paraphernalia. You wonder how he would
look if the face _had_ been done; though you have compensation,
meanwhile, I must certainly add, in your consciousness of assisting, as
you apprehensively stand there, at something new under the sun. The size
of the gap, the intensity of the omission, in the Washington prospect,
where so much else is representative, dots with the last sharpness the
distinct _i_, as it were, of one of the promptest generalizations of the
repatriated absentee. The field of American life is as bare of the
Church as a billiard-table of a centre-piece; a truth that the myriad
little structures “attended” on Sundays and on the “off” evenings of
their “sociables” proclaim as with the audible sound of the roaring of a
million mice. Or that analogy reinsists—of the difference between the
deep sea of the older sphere of spiritual passion and the shallow tide
in which the inhabiting particles float perforce near the surface. And
however one indicates one’s impression of the clearance, the clearance
itself, in its completeness, with the innumerable odd connected
circumstances that bring it home, represents, in the history of manners
and morals, a deviation in the mere measurement of which hereafter may
well reside a certain critical thrill. I say hereafter because it is a
question of one of those many measurements that would as yet, in the
United States, be premature. Of all the solemn conclusions one feels as
“barred,” the list is quite headed, in the States, I think, by this
particular abeyance of judgment. When an ancient treasure of precious
vessels, overscored with glowing gems and wrought, artistically, into
wondrous shapes, has, by a prodigious process, been converted, through a
vast community, into the small change, the simple circulating medium of
dollars and “nickels,” we can only say that the consequent permeation
will be of values of a new order. Of _what_ order we must wait to see.
All of which remarks would constitute a long excursion, I admit, from
the sacred edifice by the Richmond street, were it not for that saving
law, the enrichment of each hour on the American scene, that wings
almost any observed object with a power to suggest, a possible social
_portée_, soaring superior to its plain face. And I seem to recover the
sense of a pretext for incurable mooning, then and there, in my
introduction, but little delayed, to the next in the scant group of
local lions, the usual place of worship, as I understood, of the
Confederate leader, from his proper pew in which Jefferson Davis was
called, on that fine Sunday morning of the spring-time of 1865, by the
news of Lee’s surrender. The news had been big, but the place of worship
was small, and, linger in it as one would, fraternize as one would with
the mild old Confederate soldier, survivor of the epic age, who made, by
his account, so lean a living of his office of sexton, one could but
moodily resent, again, its trivialization of history—a process one
scarce knows how to name—its inaccessibility to legend. Perhaps, after
all, it represented, in its comfortable “denominational” commonness, the
right scene of concentration for the promoters of so barren a polity,
that idea of the perpetual Southern quarantine; but no leaders of a
great movement, a movement acclaimed by a whole nation and paid for with
every sacrifice, ever took such pains, alas, to make themselves not
interesting. It was positively as if legend would have nothing to say to
them; as if, on the spot there, I had seen it turn its back on them and
walk out of the place. This is the horse, ever, that one may take to the
water, but that drinks not against his will. That was at least what it
came back to—for the musing moralist: if the question is of legend we
dig for it in the deposit of history, but the deposit must be thick to
have given it a cover and let it accumulate. It was on the battlefields
and in all the blood-drenched radius that it would be thick; here,
decidedly, in the streets of melancholy Richmond, it was thin. Just so,
since it was the planners and plotters who had bidden unsuccessfully for
our interest, it was for the sacrificed multitude, the unsophisticated,
irresponsible agents, the obscure and the eminent alike, that
distinction might be pleaded. _They_ were buried, if one would, in the
“deposit”—where the restless analyst might scratch, all tenderly, to
find them.
He had fortunately at this moment his impression as to where, under such
an impulse, he had best look; and he turned his steps, as with an
appetite for some savour in his repast still too much withheld to that
Museum of the relics of the Confederacy installed some years since in
the eventual White House of Richmond, the “executive mansion” of the
latter half of the War. Here, positively, the spirit descended—and yet
all the more directly, it seemed to me, strange to say, by reason of the
very nudity and crudity, the historic, the pathetic poverty of the
exhibition. It fills the whole large house, each of the leagued States
enjoying an allotted space; and one assuredly feels, in passing from
room to room, that, up and down the South, no equal area can so offer
itself as sacred ground. Tragically, indescribably sanctified, these
documentary chambers that contained, so far as I remember, not a single
object of beauty, scarce one in fact that was not altogether ugly (so
void they were of intrinsic charm), and that spoke only of the absence
of means and of taste, of communication and resource. In these rude
accents they phrased their interest—which the unappeased visitor, from
the moment of his crossing the general threshold, had recognized in fact
as intense. He was at his old trick: he had made out, on the spot, in
other words, that here was a pale page into which he might read what he
liked. He had not exchanged ten words of civility with a little old
lady, a person soft-voiced, gracious, mellifluous, perfect for her
function, who, seated by her fire in a sort of official ante-room,
received him as at the gate of some grandly bankrupt plantation—he had
not surrendered to this exquisite contact before he felt himself up to
his neck in a delightful, soothing, tepid medium, the social tone of the
South that _had_ been. It was but the matter of a step over—he was
afloat on other waters, and had remounted the stream of Time. I said
just now that nothing in the Museum had beauty; but the little old lady
had it, with her thoroughly “sectional” good manners, and that
punctuality and felicity, that inimitability, one must again say, of the
South in her, in the patriotic unction of her reference to the sorry
objects about, which transported me as no enchanted carpet could have
done. No little old lady of the North could, for the high tone and the
right manner, have touched her, and poor benumbed Richmond might now be
as dreary as it liked: with that small observation made my pilgrimage
couldn’t be a failure.
The sorry objects about were old Confederate documents, already sallow
with time, framed letters, orders, autographs, extracts, tatters of a
paper-currency in the last stages of vitiation; together with faded
portraits of faded worthies, primitive products of the camera, the
crayon, the brush; of all of which she did the honours with a gentle
florid reverence that opened wide, for the musing visitor, as he
lingered and strolled, the portals, as it were, of a singularly
interesting “case.” It was the case of the beautiful, the attaching
oddity of the general Southern state of mind, or stage of feeling, in
relation to that heritage of woe and of glory of which the mementos
surrounded me. These mementos were the sorry objects, and as I pursued
them from one ugly room to another—the whole place wearing the air thus,
cumulatively, of some dim, dusty collection of specimens, prehistoric,
paleolithic, scientific, and making one grope for some verbal rendering
of the grey effect—the queer elements at play wrote themselves as large
as I could have desired. On every side, I imagine, from Virginia to
Texas, the visitor must become aware of them—the visitor, that is, who,
by exception, becomes aware of anything: was I not, for instance,
presently to recognize them, at their finest, for an almost comic
ambiguity, in the passionate flare of the little frontal inscription
behind which the Daughters of the Confederacy of the Charleston section
nurse the old wrongs and the old wounds? These afflictions are still,
thus, admirably ventilated, and what is wonderful, in the air, to-day,
is the comfort and cheer of this theory of an undying rancour. Every
facility is enjoyed for the publication of it, but as the generation
that immediately suffered and paid has almost wholly passed away, the
flame-coloured _idea_ has flowered out of the fact, and the interest,
the “psychologic” interest, is to see it so disengage itself, as legend,
as valuable, enriching, inspiring, romantic legend, and settle down to
play its permanent part. Practically, and most conveniently, one feels,
the South is reconciled, but theoretically, ideally, and above all for
the new generation and the amiable ladies, the ladies amiable like the
charming curatrix of the Richmond Museum, it burns with a smothered
flame. As we meanwhile look about us there, over a scene as sad,
throughout, as some raw spring eventide, we feel how something of the
sort must, in all the blankness, respond morally and socially to a want.
The collapse of the old order, the humiliation of defeat, the
bereavement and bankruptcy involved, represented, with its obscure
miseries and tragedies, the social revolution the most unrecorded and
undepicted, in proportion to its magnitude, that ever was; so that this
reversion of the starved spirit to the things of the heroic age, the
four epic years, is a definite soothing salve—a sentiment which has,
moreover, in the South, to cultivate, itself, intellectually, from
season to season, the field over which it ranges, and to sow with its
own hands such crops as it may harvest. The sorry objects, at Richmond,
brought it home—so low the æsthetic level: it was impossible, from room
to room, to imagine a community, of equal size, more disinherited of art
or of letters. These about one were the only echoes—daubs of
portraiture, scrawls of memoranda, old vulgar newspapers, old rude
uniforms, old unutterable “mid-Victorian” odds and ends of furniture,
all ghosts as of things noted at a country fair. The illiteracy seemed
to hover like a queer smell; the social revolution had begotten neither
song nor story—only, for literature, two or three biographies of
soldiers, written in other countries, and only, for music, the weird
chants of the emancipated blacks. Only for art, I was an hour later to
add, the monument to General Lee by M. Mercié of Paris; but to that, in
its suburban corner, and to the strange eloquence of its isolation, I
shall presently come. The moral of the show seemed to me meanwhile the
touching inevitability, in such conditions, of what I have called the
nursing attitude. “What on earth—nurse of a rich heroic past, nurse of a
fierce avenging future, nurse of any connection that would make for any
brood of visions about one’s knee—wouldn’t one have to become,” I found
myself inwardly exclaiming, “if one had this great melancholy void to
garnish and to people!” It was not, under this reflection, the actual
innocent flare of the altar of memory that was matter for surprise, but
that such altars should strike one, rather, as few and faint. They would
have been none too many for countenance and cheer had they blazed on
every hilltop.
The Richmond halls, at any rate, appeared, through the chill of the
season, scantly trodden, and I met in them no fellow-visitor but a young
man of stalwart and ingenuous aspect who struck me so forcibly, after a
little, as exhaling a natural piety that, as we happened at last to be
rapt in contemplation of the same sad glass case, I took advantage of
the occasion to ask him if he were a Southerner. His affirmative was
almost eager, and he proved—for all the world like the hero of a famous
novel—a gallant and nameless, as well as a very handsome, young
Virginian. A farmer by occupation, he had come up on business from the
interior to the capital, and, having a part of his morning on his hands,
was spending it in this visitation—made, as I gathered, by no means for
the first time, but which he still found absorbing. As a son of the new
South he presented a lively interest of type—linguistically not least
(since where doesn’t the restless analyst grope for light?)—and this
interest, the ground of my here recalling him, was promptly to arrive at
a climax. He pointed out to me, amid an array of antique regimentals,
certain objects identical with relics preserved in his own family and
that had belonged to his father, who, enrolled at the earliest age, had
fought to the end of the War. The old implements before us bore the
number of the Virginia regiment in which this veteran had first seen
service, and a question or two showed me how well my friend was
acquainted with his parent’s exploits. Enjoying, apparently—for he was
intelligent and humorous and highly conversable—the opportunity to talk
of such things (they being, as it were, so advantageously present there
with a vague Northerner), he related, felicitously, some paternal
adventure of which I have forgotten the particulars, but which comprised
a desperate evasion of capture, or worse, by the lucky smashing of the
skull of a Union soldier. I complimented him on his exact knowledge of
these old, unhappy, far-off things, and it was his candid response that
was charmingly suggestive. “Oh, I should be ready to do them all over
again myself!” And then, smiling serenely, but as if it behoved even the
least blatant of Northerners to understand: “That’s the kind of
Southerner _I_ am!” I allowed that he was a capital kind of Southerner,
and we afterwards walked together to the Public Library, where, on our
finally parting, I could but thank him again for being so much the kind
of Southerner I had wanted. He was a fine contemporary young American,
incapable, so to speak, of hurting a Northern fly—_as_ Northern; but
whose consciousness would have been poor and unfurnished without this
cool platonic passion. With what other pattern, personal views apart,
_could_ he have adorned its bare walls? So I wondered till it came to me
that, though he wouldn’t have hurt a Northern fly, there were things
(ah, we had touched on some of these!) that, all fair, engaging,
smiling, as he stood there, he would have done to a Southern negro.