III

There are neither loose ends nor stray flutters, whether of the old

prose or the old poetry, to be encountered on the large lower level,

though there are performances of a different order, in the shadow of

which such matters tend to look merely, and perhaps rather meagrely,

subjective. It is all very rich and prosperous and monotonous, the large

lower level, but oh, so inexpressibly vacant! Where the “new land”

corresponds most to its name, rejoices most visibly and complacently in

its newness, its dumped and shovelled foundations, the home till

recently of a mere vague marine backwater, there the long, straight

residential avenues, vistas quite documentary, as one finds one’s self

pronouncing them, testify with a perfection all their own to a whole

vast side of American life. The winter winds and snows, and the eternal

dust, run races in them over the clearest course anywhere provided for

that grim competition; the league-long brick pavements mirror the

expansive void, for many months of the year, in their smooth, tight

ice-coats (and ice over brick can only be described as heels over head),

and the innumerable windows, up and down, watch each other, all

hopelessly, as for revelations, indiscretions, audible, resonant,

rebellious or explosive breakages of the pane from within, that never

disturb the peace. (No one will begin, and the buried hatchet, in spite

of whatever wistful looks to where it lies, is never dug up.) So it is

that these sustained affirmations of one of the smoothest and the most

settled social states “going” excite perversely, on the part of the

restless analyst, questions that would seem logically the very last

involved. We call such aspects “documentary” because they strike us,

more than any others, as speaking volumes for the possible _serenity_,

the common decency, the quiet cohesion, of a vast commercial and

professional bourgeoisie left to itself. Here was such an order caught

in the very fact, the fact of its living maximum. A bourgeoisie without

an aristocracy to worry it is of course a very different thing from a

bourgeoisie struggling _in_ that shade, and nothing could express more

than these interminable perspectives of security the condition of a

community leading its life in the social sun.

Why, accordingly, of December afternoons, did the restless analyst,

pausing at eastward-looking corners, find on his lips the vague refrain

of Tennyson’s “long, unlovely street”? Why, if Harley Street, if

Wimpole, is unlovely, should Marlborough Street, Boston, be so—beyond

the mere platitude of its motiveless name? Here is no monotony of black

leasehold brick, no patent disavowal, in the interest of stale and

strictly subordinate gentilities, of expression, animation, variety,

curiosity; here, on the contrary, is often the individual house-front in

all its independence and sometimes in all its felicity: this whole

region being, like so many such regions in the United States to-day, the

home of the free hand, a field for the liveliest architectural

experiment. There are interesting, admirable houses—though always too

much of the detestable vitreous “bow”—and there is above all what there

is everywhere in America for saving, or at least for propping up, the

situation, that particular look of the clear course and large

opportunity ahead, which, when taken in conjunction with all the will to

live, all the money to spend, all the knowledge to acquire and apply,

seems to marshal the material possibilities in glittering illimitable

ranks. Beacon Street, moreover, used to stretch back like a workable

telescope for the focussing, at its higher extremity, in an air of which

the positive defect is to be too seldom prejudicial, of the gilded dome

of the State House—fresh as a Christmas toy seen across the floor of a

large salubrious nursery. This made a civic vignette that furnished a

little the desert of cheerful family life. But Marlborough Street, for

imperturbable reasons of its own, used periodically to break my heart.

It was of no use to make a vow of hanging about till I should have

sounded my mystery—learned to say _why_ black, stale Harley Street, for

instance, in featureless row after row, had character and depth, while

what was before me fell upon my sense with the thinness of tone of a

precocious child—and still more why this latter effect should have been,

as it were, so insistently irritating. If there be strange ways of

producing an interest, to the critical mind, there are doubtless still

stranger ways of not producing one, and it was important to me, no

doubt, to make “my” defunct and compact and expressive little Boston

appear to don all the signs of that character that the New Land, and

what is built thereon, miss. How could one consider the place at all

unless in a light?—so that one had to decide definitely on one’s light.

This it was after all easy to do from the moment one had determined to

concede to the New Land the fact of possession of everything convenient

and handsome under heaven. Peace could always come with this recognition

of all the accessories and equipments, a hundred costly things, parks

and palaces and institutions, that the earlier community had lacked; and

there was an individual connection—only one, presently to be noted—in

which the actual city might seem for an hour to have no capacity for the

uplifting _idea_, no aptitude for the finer curiosity, to envy the past.

But meanwhile it was strange that even so fine a conception, finely

embodied, as the new Public Library, magnificently superseding all

others, was committed to speak to one’s inner perception still more of

the power of the purse and of the higher turn for business than of the

old intellectual, or even of the old moral, sensibility. Why else then

should one have thought of some single, some admirable hour of Emerson,

in one of the dusky, primitive lecture-halls that have ceased to be, or

of some large insuperable anti-slavery eloquence of Wendell Phillips’s,

during the same term and especially during the War, as breathing more of

the consciousness of literature and of history than all the promiscuous

bustle of the Florentine palace by Copley Square? Not that this latter

edifice, the fruit of immense considerations, has not its honourable

interest too; which it would have if only in the light of the constant

truth that almost any American application or practice of a general

thought puts on a new and original aspect. Public libraries are a

thoroughly general thought, and one has seen plenty of them, one is

seeing dreadfully many, in these very days, the world over; yet to be

confronted with an American example is to have sight straightway of more

difference than community, and to glean on the spot fresh evidence of

that democratic way of dealing which it has been the American office to

translate from an academic phrase into a bristling fact. The notes of

difference of the Florentine palace by Copley Square—more delicately

elegant, in truth, if less sublimely rugged, than most Florentine

palaces—resolve themselves, like so many such notes everywhere, into our

impression here, once more, that every one is “in” everything, whereas

in Europe so comparatively few persons are in anything (even as yet in

“society,” more and more the common refuge or retreat of the masses).

The Boston institution then is a great and complete institution, with

this reserve of its striking the restored absentee as practically

without _penetralia_. A library without _penetralia_ may affect him but

as a temple without altars; it will at any rate exemplify the

distinction between a benefit given and a benefit taken, a borrowed, a

lent, and an owned, an appropriated convenience. The British Museum, the

Louvre, the Bibliothèque Nationale, the treasures of South Kensington,

are assuredly, under forms, at the disposal of the people; but it is to

be observed, I think, that the people walk there more or less under the

shadow of the right waited for and conceded. It remains as difficult as

it is always interesting, however, to trace the detail (much of it

obvious enough, but much more indefinable) of the personal port of a

democracy that, unlike the English, is social as well as political. One

of these denotements is that social democracies are unfriendly to the

preservation of _penetralia_; so that when _penetralia_ are of the

essence, as in a place of study and meditation, they inevitably go to

the wall. The main staircase, in Boston, has, with its amplitude of wing

and its splendour of tawny marble, a high and luxurious beauty—bribing

the restored absentee to emotion, moreover, by expanding, monumentally,

at one of its rests, into admirable commemoration of the Civil War

service of the two great Massachusetts Volunteer regiments of _élite_.

Such visions, such felicities, such couchant lions and recorded names

and stirred memories as these, encountered in the early autumn twilight,

_colour_ an impression—even though to say so be the limit of breach of

the silence in which, for persons of the generation of the author of

these pages, appreciation of them can best take refuge: the refuge to

which I felt myself anon reduced, for instance, opposite the State

House, in presence of Saint-Gaudens’s noble and exquisite monument to

Robert Gould Shaw and the Fifty-fourth Massachusetts. There are works of

memorial art that may suddenly place themselves, by their operation in a

given case, outside articulate criticism—which was what happened, I

found, in respect to the main feature, the rich staircase of the

Library. Another way in which the bribe, as I have called it, of that

masterpiece worked on the spot was by prompting one to immediate charmed

perception of the character of the deep court and inner arcade of the

palace, where a wealth of science and taste has gone to producing a

sense, when the afternoon light sadly slants, of one of the myriad

gold-coloured courts of the Vatican.

These are the refinements of the present Boston—keeping company as they

can with the healthy animation, as it struck me, of the rest of the

building, the multitudinous bustle, the coming and going, as in a

railway-station, of persons with carpet-bags and other luggage, the

simplicity of plan, the open doors and immediate accesses, admirable

_for_ a railway-station, the ubiquitous children, _most_ irrepressible

little democrats of the democracy, the vain quest, above all, of the

deeper depths aforesaid, some part that should be sufficiently _within_

some other part, sufficiently withdrawn and consecrated, not to

constitute a thoroughfare. Perhaps I didn’t adequately explore; but

there was always the visible scale and scheme of the building. It was a

shock to find the so brave decorative designs of Puvis de Chavannes, of

Sargent and Abbey and John Elliott, hanging over mere chambers of

familiarity and resonance; and then, I must quickly add, it was a shock

still greater perhaps to find one had no good reason for defending them

against such freedoms. What was sauce for the goose was sauce for the

gander: had one not in other words, in the public places and under the

great loggias of Italy, acclaimed it as just the charm and dignity of

these resorts that, in their pictured and embroidered state, they still

serve for the graceful common life? It was true that one had not been

imprisoned in that consistency in the Laurentian, in the Ambrosian

Library—and at any rate one was here on the edge of abysses. Was it not

splendid, for example, to see, in Boston, such large provision made for

the amusement of children on rainy afternoons?—so many little heads bent

over their story-books that the edifice took on at moments the

appearance worn, one was to observe later on, by most other American

edifices of the same character, that of a lively distributing-house of

the new fiction for the young. The note was bewildering—yet would one,

snatching the bread-and-molasses from their lips, cruelly deprive the

young of rights in which they have been installed with a majesty nowhere

else approaching that of their American installation? I am not wrong,

probably, at all events, in qualifying such a question as that as

abysmal, and I remember how, more than once, I took refuge from it in

craven flight, straight across the Square, to the already so

interesting, the so rapidly-expanding Art Museum.

There, for some reason, questions exquisitely dropped; perhaps only for

the reason that things sifted and selected have, very visibly, the

effect of challenging the confidence even of the rash. It is of the

nature of objects doomed to show distinction that they virtually make a

desert round them, and peace reigned unbroken, I usually noted, in the

two or three Museum rooms that harbour a small but deeply-interesting

and steadily-growing collection of fragments of the antique. Here the

restless analyst found work to his hand—only too much; and indeed in

presence of the gem of the series, of the perhaps just too conscious

grace of a certain little wasted and dim-eyed head of Aphrodite, he felt

that his function should simply give way, in common decency, to that of

the sonneteer. For it is an impression by itself, and I think quite

worth the Atlantic voyage, to catch in the American light the very fact

of the genius of Greece. There are things we don’t know, feelings not to

be foretold, till we have had that experience—which I commend to the

_raffiné_ of almost any other clime. I should say to him that he has not

_seen_ a fine Greek thing till he has seen it in America. It is of

course on the face of it the most merciless case of transplanting—the

mere moral of which, none the less, for application, becomes by no means

flagrant. The little Aphrodite, with her connections, her antecedents

and references exhibiting the maximum of breakage, is no doubt as

_lonely_ a jewel as ever strayed out of its setting; yet what does one

quickly recognize but that the intrinsic lustre will have, so far as

that may be possible, doubled? She has lost her background, the divine

creature—has lost her company, and is keeping, in a manner, the

strangest; but so far from having lost an iota of her power, she has

gained unspeakably more, since what she essentially stands for she here

stands for alone, rising ineffably to the occasion. She has in short, by

her single presence, as yet, annexed an empire, and there are strange

glimmers of moments when, as I have spoken of her consciousness, the

very knowledge of this seems to lurk in the depth of her beauty. Where

was she ever more, where was she ever so much, a goddess—and who knows

but that, being thus divine, she foresees the time when, as she has

“moved over,” the place of her actual whereabouts will have become one

of her shrines? Objects doomed to distinction make round them a desert,

I have said; but that is only for any gross confidence in other matters.

For confidence in _them_ they make a garden, and that is why I felt this

quarter of the Boston Art Museum bloom, under the indescribable dim

eyes, with delicate flowers. The impression swallowed up every other;

the place, whatever it was, was supremely justified, and I was left cold

by learning that a much bigger and grander and richer place is presently

to overtop it.

The present establishment “dates back,” back almost to the good Boston

of the middle years, and is full of all sorts of accumulated and

concentrated pleasantness; which fact precisely gives the signal, by the

terrible American law, for its coming to an end and giving a chance to

the untried. It is a consistent application of the rotary system—the

untried always awaiting its turn, and quite perceptibly stamping and

snorting while it waits; all heedless as it is, poor innocent untried,

of the certain hour of the impatiences before which it too will have to

retreat. It is not indeed that the American laws, so operating, have not

almost always their own queer interest; founded as they are, all

together, on one of the strongest of the native impulses. We see this

characteristic again and again at play, see it in especial wherever we

see (which is more than frequently enough) a university or a college

“started” or amplified. This process almost always takes the form,

primarily, of more lands and houses and halls and rooms, more

swimming-baths and football-fields and gymnasia, a greater luxury of

brick and mortar, a greater ingenuity, the most artful conceivable, of

accommodation and installation. Such is the magic, such the presences,

that tend, more than any other, to figure _as_ the Institution, thereby

perverting not a little, as need scarce be remarked, the finer

collegiate idea: the theory being, doubtless, and again most

characteristically, that with all the wrought stone and oak and painted

glass, the immense provision, the multiplied marbles and tiles and

cloisters and acres, “people will come,” that is, individuals of value

will, and in some manner work some miracle. In the early American time,

doubtless, individuals of value had to wait too much for things; but

that is now made up by the way things are waiting for individuals of

value. To which I must immediately add, however—and it is the ground of

my allusion of a moment ago—that no impression of the “new” Boston can

feel itself hang together without remembrance of what it owes to that

rare exhibition of the living spirit lately achieved, in the interest of

the fine arts, and of all that is noblest in them, by the unaided and

quite heroic genius of a private citizen. To attempt to tell the story

of the wonderfully-gathered and splendidly-lodged Gardner Collection

would be to displace a little the line that separates private from

public property; and yet to find no discreet word for it is to appear to

fail of feeling for the complexity of conditions amid which so undaunted

a devotion to a great idea (undaunted by the battle to fight, losing,

alas, with State Protection of native art, and with other scarce less

uncanny things) has been able consummately to flower. It is in presence

of the results magnificently attained, the energy triumphant over

everything, that one feels the fine old disinterested tradition of

Boston least broken.

VIII

CONCORD AND SALEM

I

I felt myself, on the spot, cast about a little for the right expression

of it, and then lost any hesitation to say that, putting the three or

four biggest cities aside, Concord, Massachusetts, had an identity more

palpable to the mind, had nestled in other words more successfully

beneath her narrow fold of the mantle of history, than any other

American town. “Compare me with places of my size, you know,” one seemed

to hear her plead, with the modesty that, under the mild autumn sun, so

well became her russet beauty; and this exactly it was that prompted the

emphasis of one’s reply, or, as it may even be called, of one’s

declaration.

“Ah, my dear, it isn’t a question of places of your ‘size,’ since among

places of your size you’re too obviously and easily first: it’s a

question of places, so many of them, of fifty times your size, and which

yet don’t begin to have a fraction of your weight, or your character, or

your intensity of presence and sweetness of tone, or your moral charm,

or your pleasant appreciability, or, in short, of anything that is

yours. Your ‘size’? Why, you’re the biggest little place in America—with

only New York and Boston and Chicago, by what I make out, to surpass

you; and the country is lucky indeed to have you, in your sole and

single felicity, for if it hadn’t, where in the world should we go,

inane and unappeased, for the particular communication of which you have

the secret? The country is colossal, and you but a microscopic speck on

the hem of its garment; yet there’s nothing else like you, take you all

round, for we _see_ you complacently, with the naked eye, whereas-there

are vast sprawling, bristling areas, great grey ‘centres of population’

that spread, on the map, like irremediable grease-spots, which fail

utterly of any appeal to our vision or any control of it, leaving it to

pass them by as if they were not. If you are so thoroughly the opposite

of one of these I don’t say it’s all your superlative merit; it’s

rather, as I have put it, your felicity, your good fortune, the result

of the half-dozen happy turns of the wheel in your favour. Half-a-dozen

such turns, you see, are, for any mortal career, a handsome allowance;

and your merit is that, recognizing this, you have not fallen below your

estate. But it’s your fortune, above all, that’s your charm. One doesn’t

want to be patronizing, but you didn’t, thank goodness, make yours.

That’s what the other places, the big ones that are as nothing to you,

are trying to do, the country over—to make theirs; and, from the point

of view of these remarks, all in vain. Your luck is that you didn’t have

to; yours had been, just as it shows in you to-day, made _for_ you, and

you at the most but gratefully submitted to it. It must be said for you,

however, that you keep it; and it isn’t every place that would have been

capable——! You keep the look, you keep the feeling, you keep the air.

Your great trees arch over these possessions more protectingly, covering

them in as a cherished presence; and you have settled to your tone and

your type as to treasures that can now never be taken. Show me the other

places in America (of the few that have _had_ anything) from which the

best hasn’t mainly been taken, or isn’t in imminent danger of being.

There is old Salem, there is old Newport, which I am on my way to see

again, and which, if you will, are, by what I hear, still comparatively

intact; but their having was never a having like yours, and they adorn,

precisely, my little tale of your supremacy. No, I don’t want to be

patronizing, but your only fault is your tendency to improve—I mean just

by your duration as you _are_; which indeed is the only sort of

improvement that is not questionable.”

Such was the drift of the warm flood of appreciation, of reflection,

that Concord revisited could set rolling over the field of a prepared

sensibility; and I feel as if I had quite made my point, such as it is,

in asking what other American village could have done anything of the

sort. I should have been at fault perhaps only in speaking of the

interest in question as visible, on that large scale, to the “naked

eye”; the truth being perhaps that one wouldn’t have been so met

half-way by one’s impression unless one had rather particularly _known_,

and that knowledge, in such a case, amounts to a pair of magnifying

spectacles. I remember indeed putting it to myself on the November

Sunday morning, tepid and bright and perfect for its use, through which

I walked from the station under the constant archway of the elms, as yet

but indulgently thinned: would one know, for one’s self, what had

formerly been the matter here, if one hadn’t happened to be able to get

round behind, in the past, as it were, and more or less understand?

Would the operative elements of the past—little old Concord Fight,

essentially, and Emerson and Hawthorne and Thoreau, with the rest of the

historic animation and the rest of the figured and shifting

“transcendental” company, to its last and loosest ramifications—would

even these handsome quantities have so lingered to one’s intelligent

after-sense, if one had not brought with one some sign by which they too

would know; dim, shy spectralities as, for themselves, they must, at the

best, have become? Idle, however, such questions when, by the chance of

the admirable day, everything, in its own way and order, unmistakably

came _out_—every string sounded as if, for all the world, the loose New

England town (and I apply the expression but to the relations of objects

and places), were a lyre swept by the hand of Apollo. Apollo was the

spirit of antique piety, looking about, pausing, remembering, as he

moved to his music; and there were glimpses and reminders that of course

kept him much longer than others.

Seated there at its ease, as if placidly familiar with pilgrims and

quite taking their homage for granted, the place had the very aspect of

some grave, refined New England matron of the “old school,” the widow of

a high celebrity, living on and on in possession of all his relics and

properties, and, though not personally addicted to gossip or to

journalism, having become, where the great company kept by her in the

past is concerned, quite cheerful and modern and responsive. From her

position, her high-backed chair by the window that commands most of the

coming and going, she looks up intelligently, over her knitting, with no

vision of any limit on her part as yet, to this attitude, and with

nothing indeed to suggest the possibility of a limit save a hint of that

loss of temporal perspective in which we recognize the mental effect of

a great weight of years. I had formerly the acquaintance of a very

interesting lady, of extreme age, whose early friends, in “literary

circles,” are now regarded as classics, and who, toward the end of her

life, always said, “You know Charles Lamb has produced a play at Drury

Lane,” or “You know William Hazlitt has fallen in love with such a very

odd woman.” Her facts were perfectly correct; only death had beautifully

passed out of her world—since I don’t remember her mentioning to me the

demise, which she might have made so contemporary, either of Byron or of

Scott. When people were ill she admirably forbore to ask about them—she

disapproved wholly of such conditions; and there were interesting

invalids round about her, near to her, whose existence she for long

years consummately ignored. It is some such quiet backward stride as

those of my friend that I seem to hear the voice of old Concord take in

reference to her annals, and it is not too much to say that where her

soil is most sacred, I fairly caught, on the breeze, the mitigated

perfect tense. “You know there has been a fight between our men and the

King’s”—one wouldn’t have been surprised, that crystalline Sunday noon,

where so little had changed, where the stream and the bridge, and all

nature, and the _feeling_, above all, still so directly testify, at any

fresh-sounding form of such an announcement.

I had forgotten, in all the years, with what thrilling clearness that

supreme site speaks—though anciently, while so much of the course of the

century was still to run, the distinctness might have seemed even

greater. But to stand there again was to take home this foreshortened

view, the gained nearness, to one’s sensibility; to look straight over

the heads of the “American Weimar” company at the inestimable hour that

had so handsomely set up for them their background. The Fight had been

the hinge—so one saw it—on which the large revolving future was to turn;

or it had been better, perhaps, the large firm nail, ringingly driven

in, from which the beautiful portrait-group, as we see it to-day, was to

hang. Beautiful exceedingly the local Emerson and Thoreau and Hawthorne

and (in a fainter way) _tutti quanti_; but beautiful largely because the

fine old incident down in the valley had so seriously prepared their

effect. That seriousness gave once for all the pitch, and it was verily

as if, under such a value, even with the seed of a “literary circle” so

freely scattered by an intervening hand, the vulgar note would in that

air never be possible. As I had inevitably, in long absence, let the

value, for immediate perception, rather waste itself, so, on the spot,

it came back most instantly with the extraordinary sweetness of the

river, which, under the autumn sun, like all the American rivers one had

seen or was to see, straightway took the whole case straightway into its

hands. “Oh, you shall tell me of your impression when you have felt what

_I_ can do for it: so hang over me well!”—that’s what they all seem to

say.

I hung over Concord River then as long as I could, and recalled how

Thoreau, Hawthorne, Emerson himself, have expressed with due sympathy

the sense of this full, slow, sleepy, meadowy flood, which sets its pace

and takes its twists like some large obese benevolent person, scarce so

frankly unsociable as to pass you at all. It had watched the Fight, it

even now confesses, without a quickening of its current, and it draws

along the woods and the orchards and the fields with the purr of a mild

domesticated cat who rubs against the family and the furniture. Not to

be recorded, at best, however, I think, never to emerge from the state

of the inexpressible, in respect to the spot, by the bridge, where one

most lingers, is the sharpest suggestion of the whole scene—the power

diffused in it which makes it, after all these years, or perhaps indeed

by reason of their number, so irresistibly touching. All the

commemorative objects, the stone marking the burial-place of the three

English soldiers, the animated image of the young belted American yeoman

by Mr. Daniel French, the intimately associated element in the presence,

not far off, of the old manse, interesting theme of Hawthorne’s pen,

speak to the spirit, no doubt, in one of the subtlest tones of which

official history is capable, and yet somehow leave the exquisite

melancholy of everything unuttered. It lies too deep, as it always so

lies where the ground has borne the weight of the short, simple act,

intense and unconscious, that was to determine the event, determine the

future in the way we call immortally. For we read into the scene too

little of what we may, unless this muffled touch in it somehow reaches

us so that we feel the pity and the irony of the _precluded_ relation on

the part of the fallen defenders. The sense that was theirs and that

moved them we know, but we seem to know better still the sense that

wasn’t and that couldn’t, and that forms our luxurious heritage as our

eyes, across the gulf, seek to meet their eyes; so that we are almost

ashamed of taking so much, such colossal quantity and value, as the

equivalent of their dimly-seeing offer. The huge bargain they made for

us, in a word, made by the gift of the little all they had—to the

modesty of which amount the homely rural facts grouped there together

have appeared to go on testifying—this brilliant advantage strikes the

imagination that yearns over them as unfairly enjoyed at their cost. Was

it delicate, was it decent—that is _would_ it have been—to ask the

embattled farmers, simple-minded, unwitting folk, to make us so

inordinate a present with so little of the conscious credit of it? Which

all comes indeed, perhaps, simply to the most poignant of all those

effects of disinterested sacrifice that the toil and trouble of our

forefathers produce for us. The minute-men at the bridge were of course

interested intensely, as they believed—but such, too, was the artful

manner in which we see _our_ latent, lurking, waiting interest like, a

Jew in a dusky back-shop, providentially bait the trap.

Beyond even such broodings as these, and to another purpose, moreover,

the communicated spell falls, in its degree, into that pathetic oddity

of the small aspect, and the rude and the lowly, the reduced and

humiliated above all, that sits on so many nooks and corners, objects

and appurtenances, old contemporary things—contemporary with the doings

of our race; simplifying our antecedents, our annals, to within an inch

of their life, making us ask, in presence of the rude relics even of

greatness, mean retreats and receptacles, constructionally so poor, from

what barbarians or from what pigmies we have sprung. There are certain

rough black mementos of the early monarchy, in England and Scotland,

there are glimpses of the original humble homes of other greatness as

well, that strike in perfection this grim little note; which has the

interest of our being free to take it, for curiosity, for luxury of

thought, as that of the real or that of the romantic, and with which,

again, the deep Concord rusticity, momentary medium of our national

drama, essentially consorts. We remember the small hard facts of the

Shakespeare house at Stratford; we remember the rude closet, in

Edinburgh Castle, in which James VI of Scotland was born, or the other

little black hole, at Holyrood, in which Mary Stuart “sat” and in which

Rizzio was murdered. These, I confess, are odd memories at Concord;

although the manse, near the spot where we last paused, and against the

edge of whose acre or two the loitering river seeks friction in the

manner I have mentioned, would now seem to have shaken itself a trifle

disconcertingly free of the ornamental mosses scattered by Hawthorne’s

light hand; it stands there, beyond its gate, with every due similitude

to the shrunken historic site in general. To which I must hasten to add,

however, that I was much more struck with the way these particular

places of visitation resist their pressure of reference than with their

affecting us as below their fortune. Intrinsically they are as

naught—deeply depressing, in fact, to any impulse to reconstitute, the

house in which Hawthorne spent what remained to him of life after his

return from the Italy of his Donatello and his Miriam. Yet, in common

with everything else, this mild monument benefits by that something in

the air which makes us tender, keeps us respectful; meets, in the

general interest, waving it vaguely away, any closer assault of

criticism.

It is odd, and it is also exquisite, that these witnessing ways should

be the last ground on which we feel moved to ponderation of the “Concord

school”—to use, I admit, a futile expression; or rather, I should

doubtless say, it _would_ be odd if there were not inevitably something

absolute in the fact of Emerson’s all but lifelong connection with them.

We may smile a little as we “drag in” Weimar, but I confess myself, for

my part, much more satisfied than not by our happy equivalent, “in

American money,” for Goethe and Schiller. The money is a potful in the

second case as in the first, and if Goethe, in the one, represents the

gold and Schiller the silver, I find (and quite putting aside any

bimetallic prejudice) the same good relation in the other between

Emerson and Thoreau. I open Emerson for the same benefit for which I

open Goethe, the sense of moving in large intellectual space, and that

of the gush, here and there, out of the rock, of the crystalline cupful,

in wisdom and poetry, in Wahrheit and Dichtung; and whatever I open

Thoreau for (I needn’t take space here for the good reasons) I open him

oftener than I open Schiller. Which comes back to our feeling that the

rarity of Emerson’s genius, which has made him so, for the attentive

peoples, the first, and the one really rare, American spirit in letters,

couldn’t have spent his career in a charming woody, watery place, for so

long socially and typically and, above all, interestingly homogeneous,

without an effect as of the communication to it of something

ineffaceable. It was during his long span his immediate concrete,

sufficient world; it gave him his nearest vision of life, and he drew

half his images, we recognize, from the revolution of its seasons and

the play of its manners. I don’t speak of the other half, which he drew

from elsewhere. It is admirably, to-day, as if we were still seeing

these things _in_ those images, which stir the air like birds, dim in

the eventide, coming home to nest. If one had reached a “time of life”

one had thereby at least heard him lecture; and not a russet leaf fell

for me, while I was there, but fell with an Emersonian drop.

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