stood to the north, and at four, Freezeland Peak bore east, distant
three or four leagues. Soon after, it fell little wind, and we were left
to the mercy of a great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore.
We sounded, but a line of two hundred fathoms found no bottom.
At eight o'clock, the weather, which had been very hazy, clearing up, we
saw Cape Bristol bearing E.S.E., and terminating in a point to the
north, beyond which we could see no land. This discovery relieved us
from the fear of being carried by the swell on the most horrible coast
in the world, and we continued to stand to the north all night, with a
light breeze at west.
1775 February
On the 1st of February, at four o'clock in the morning, we got sight of
a new coast, which at six o'clock bore N. 60° east. It proved a high
promontory, which I named Cape Montagu, situated in latitude 58° 27' S.,
longitude 26° 44' west, and seven or eight leagues to the north of Cape
Bristol. We saw land from space to space between them, which made me
conclude that the whole was connected. I was sorry I could not determine
this with greater certainty; but prudence would not permit me to venture
near a coast, subject to thick fogs, on which there was no anchorage;
where every port was blocked or filled up with ice; and the whole
country, from the summits of the mountains, down to the very brink of
the cliffs which terminate the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with
everlasting snow. The cliffs alone was all which was to be seen like
land.
Several large ice-islands lay upon the coast; one of which attracted my
notice. It had a flat surface, was of considerable extent both in height
and circuit, and had perpendicular sides, on which the waves of the sea
had made no impression; by which I judged that it had not been long from
land, and that it might lately have come out of some bay on the coast,
where it had been formed.
At noon we were east and west of the northern part of Cape Montagu,
distant about five leagues, and Freezeland Peak bore S. 16° east,
distant twelve leagues; latitude observed 58° 25' S. In the morning the
variation was 10° 11' east. At two in the afternoon, as we were standing
to the north, with a light breeze at S.W., we saw land bearing N. 25'
east, distant fourteen leagues. Cape Montagu bore at this time, S. 66°
east; at eight it bore S. 40° east; Cape Bristol, S. by E.; the new land
extending from N. 40° to 52° east; and we thought we saw land still more
to the east, and beyond it.
Continuing to steer to the north all night, at six o'clock the next
morning a new land was seen bearing N. 12° east, about ten leagues
distant. It appeared in two hummocks just peeping above the horizon; but
we soon after lost sight of them; and having got the wind at N.N.E. a
fresh breeze, we stood for the northernmost land we had seen the day
before, which at this time bore E.S.E. We fetched in with it by ten
o'clock, but could not weather it, and were obliged to tack three miles
from the coast, which extended from E. by S. to S.E., and had much the
appearance of being an island of about eight or ten leagues circuit. It
shews a surface of considerable height, whose summit was lost in the
clouds, and, like all the neighbouring lands, covered with a sheet of
snow and ice, except in a projecting point on the north side, and two
hills seen over this point, which probably might be two islands. These
only were clear of snow, and seemed covered with a green turf. Some
large ice islands lay to the N.E., and some others to the south.
We stood off till noon, and then tacked for the land again, in order to
see whether it was an island or no. The weather was now become very
hazy, which soon turning to a thick fog, put a stop to discovery, and
made it unsafe to stand for the shore; so that after having run the same
distance in, as we had run off, we tacked and stood to N.W., for the
land we had seen in the morning, which was yet at a considerable
distance. Thus we were obliged to leave the other, under the supposition
of its being an island, which I named Saunders, after my honourable
friend Sir Charles. It is situated in the latitude of 57° 49' south
longitude, 26° 44' west; and north, distant thirteen leagues, from Cape
Montagu.
At six o'clock in the evening, the wind shifting to the west, we tacked,
and stood to the north; and at eight the fog clearing away, gave us a
sight of Saunders's Isle, extending from S.E. by S. to E.S.E. We were
still in doubt if it was an island; for, at this time, land was seen
bearing E. by S., which might or might not be connected with it; it
might also be the same that we had seen the preceding evening. But, be
this as it may, it was now necessary to take a view of the land to the
north, before we proceeded any farther to the east. With this intention,
we stood to the north, having a light breeze at W. by S., which at two
o'clock in the morning of the 3d, was succeeded by a calm that continued
till eight, when we got the wind at E. by S. attended by hazy weather.
At this time we saw the land we were looking for, and which proved to be
two isles. The day on which they were discovered, was the occasion of
calling them Candlemas Isles; latitude 57° 11' S., longitude 27° 6' W.
They were of no great extent, but of considerable height, and were
covered with snow. A small rock was seen between them, and perhaps there
may be more; for the weather was so hazy that we soon lost sight of the
islands, and did not see them again till noon, at which time they bore
west, distant three or four leagues.
As the wind kept veering to the south, we were obliged to stand to the
N.E., in which route we met with several large ice islands, loose ice,
and many penguins; and at midnight, came at once into water uncommonly
white, which alarmed the officer of the watch so much, that he tacked
the ship instantly. Some thought it was a float of ice; others that it
was shallow water; but, as it proved neither, probably it was a shoal of
fish.
We stood to the south till two o'clock next morning, when we resumed our
course to the east with a faint breeze at S.S.E. which having ended in a
calm, at six, I took the opportunity of putting a boat in the water to
try if there were any current; and the trial proved there was none. Some
whales were playing about us, and abundance of penguins: a few of the
latter were shot, and they proved to be of the same sort that we had
seen among the ice before, and different both from those on Staten Land,
and from those at the isle of Georgia. It is remarkable, that we had not
seen a seal since we left that coast. At noon we were in latitude of 56°
44' S., longitude 25° 33' W. At this time we got a breeze at east, with
which we stood to the south, with a view of gaining the coast we had
left; but at eight o'clock the wind shifted to the south, and made it
necessary to tack and stand to the east; in which course we met with
several ice-islands and some loose ice; the weather continuing hazy with
snow and rain.
No penguins were seen on the 5th, which made me conjecture that we were
leaving the land behind us, and that we had already seen its northern
extremity. At noon we were in the latitude of 57° 8' S., longitude 23°
34' west, which was 3° of longitude to the east of Saunders's Isle. In
the afternoon the wind shifted to the west; this enabled us to stretch
to the south, and to get into the latitude of the land, that, if it took
an east direction, we might again fall in with it.
We continued to steer to the south and S.E. till next day at noon, at
which time we were in the latitude of 58° 15' S., longitude 21° 34'
west, and seeing neither land nor signs of any, I concluded that what we
had seen, which I named Sandwich Land, was either a group of islands, or
else a point of the continent. For I firmly believe that there is a
tract of land near the Pole which is the source of most of the ice that
is spread over this vast southern ocean. I also think it probable that
it extends farthest to the north opposite the southern Atlantic and
Indian oceans; because ice was always found by us farther to the north
in these oceans than any where else, which I judge could not be, if
there were not land to the south; I mean a land of considerable extent.
For if we suppose that no such land exists, and that ice may be formed
without it, it will follow of course that the cold ought to be every
where nearly equal round the Pole, as far as 70° or 60' of latitude, or
so far as to be beyond the influence of any of the known continents;
consequently we ought to see ice every where under the same parallel, or
near it; and yet the contrary has been, found. Very few ships have met
with ice going round Cape Horn: And we saw but little below the sixtieth
degree of latitude, in the Southern Pacific Ocean. Whereas in this
ocean, between the meridian of 40° west and 50° or 60° east, we found
ice as far north as 51°. Bouvet met with, some in 48°, and others have
seen it in a much lower latitude. It is true, however, that the greatest
part of this southern continent (supposing there is one), must lie
within the polar circle, where the sea is so pestered with ice, that the
land is thereby inaccessible. The risque one runs in exploring a coast,
in these unknown and icy seas, is so very great, that I can be bold
enough to say that no man will ever venture farther than I have done;
and that the lands which may lie to the south will never be explored.
Thick fogs, snow storms, intense cold, and every other thing that can
render navigation dangerous, must be encountered, and these difficulties
are greatly heightened by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the
country; a country doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of
the sun's rays, but to lie buried in everlasting snow and ice. The ports
which may be on the coast, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with
frozen snow of vast thickness; but if any should be so far open as to
invite a ship into it, she would run a risque of being fixed there for
ever, or of coming out in an ice island. The islands and floats on the
coast, the great falls from the ice-cliffs in the port, or a heavy
snow-storm attended with a sharp frost, would be equally fatal.
After such an explanation as this, the reader must not expect to find me
much farther to the south. It was, however, not for want of inclination,
but for other reasons. It would have been rashness in me to have risqued
all that had been done during the voyage, in discovering and exploring a
coast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no end
whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or
geography, or indeed to any other science. Bouvet's discovery was yet
before us, the existence of which was to be cleared up; and, besides all
this, we were not now in a condition to undertake great things; nor
indeed was there time, had we been ever so well provided.
These reasons induced me to alter the course to the east, with a very
strong gale at north, attended with an exceedingly heavy fall of snow.
The quantity which lodged on our sails was so great, that we were
frequently obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it out of
them, otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported the
weight. In the evening it ceased to snow; the weather cleared up, the
wind backed to the west, and we spent the night in making two short
boards, under close-reefed top-sails and fore-sail.
At day-break on the 7th, we resumed our course to the east, with a very
fresh gale at S.W. by W., attended by a high sea from the same
direction. In the afternoon, being in the latitude of 58° 24' S.,
longitude 16° 19' west, the variation was 1° 52' east. Only three
ice-islands seen this day. At eight o'clock, shortened sail, and hauled
the wind to the S.E. for the night, in which we had several showers of
snow and sleet.
On the 8th at day-light, we resumed our east course with a gentle breeze
and fair weather. After sun-rise, being then in the latitude of 58° 30'
S., longitude 15° 14' west, the variation, by the mean results of two
compasses, was 2° 43' east. These observations were more to be depended
on than those made the night before, there being much less sea now than
then. In the afternoon, we passed three ice-islands. This night was
spent as the preceding.
At six next morning, being in the latitude of 58° 27' S., longitude 13°
4' W., the variation was 26' E.; and in the afternoon, being in the same
latitude, and about a quarter of a degree more to the east, it was 2'
west. Therefore this last situation must be in or near the Line, in
which the compass has no variation. We had a calm the most part of the
day. The weather fair and clear, excepting now and then a snow-shower.
The mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 40; whereas, for several
days before, it had been no higher than 36 or 38. We had several
ice-islands in sight, but no one thing that could induce us to think
that any land was in our neighbourhood. At eight in the evening a breeze
sprung up at S.E., with which we stood to N.E.
During the night the wind freshened and veered south, which enabled us
to steer east. The wind was attended with showers of sleet and snow till
day-light, when the weather became fair, but piercing cold, so that the
water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mercury in the thermometer was
no higher than 34-1/2. At six o'clock in the morning, the variation was
23' west, being then in the latitude of 58° 15' S., longitude 11° 41' W;
and at six in the evening, being in the same latitude, and in the
longitude of 9° 24' W., it was 1° 51' W. In the evening the wind abated;
and during the night, it was variable between south and west.
Ice-islands continually in sight.
On the 11th, wind westerly, light airs attended with heavy showers of
snow in the morning; but as the day advanced, the weather became fair,
clear, and serene. Still continuing to steer east, at noon we observed
in latitude 58° 11', longitude at the same time 7° 55' west. Thermometer
34-2/3. In the afternoon we had two hours calm; after which we had faint
breezes between the N.E. and S.E.
At six o'clock in the morning of the 12th, being in the latitude of 58°
23' S., longitude 6° 54' W., the variation was 3° 23' west. We had
variable light airs next to a calm all this day, and the weather was
fair and clear till towards the evening, when it became cloudy with
snow-showers, and the air very cold. Ice-islands continually in sight;
most of them small and breaking to pieces.
In the afternoon of the 13th, the wind increased, the sky became
clouded, and soon after we had a very heavy fall of snow, which
continued till eight or nine o'clock in the evening, when the wind
abating and veering to S.E., the sky cleared up, and we had a fair
night, attended with so sharp a frost, that the water in all our vessels
on deck was next morning covered with a sheet of ice. The mercury in the
thermometer was as low as 29°, which is 3° below freezing, or rather 4;
for we generally found the water freeze when the mercury stood at 33°.
Towards noon on the 14th, the wind veering to the south, increased to a
very strong gale, and blew in heavy squalls attended with snow. At
intervals, between the squalls, the weather was fair and clear, but
exceedingly cold. We continued to steer east, inclining a little to the
north, and in, the afternoon crossed the first meridian, or that of
Greenwich, in the latitude of 57° 50' S. At eight in, the evening, we
close-reefed the top-sails, took in the main-sail, and steered east with
a very hard gale at S.S.W., and a high sea from the same direction.
At day-break on the 15th, we set the main-sail, loosed a reef out of
each top-sail, and with a very strong gale at S.W., and fair weather,
steered E.N.E. till noon, at which, time we were in latitude of 50° 37'
S., longitude 4° 11' E., when we pointed to the N.E., in order to get
into the latitude of Cape Circumcision. Some large ice-islands were in
sight, and the air was nearly as cold as on the preceding day. At eight
o'clock in the evening, shortened sail, and at eleven hauled the wind to
the N.W., not daring to stand on in the night, which was foggy, with
snow-showers, and a smart frost.
At day-break on the 16th, we bore away N.E., with a light breeze at
west, which, at noon, was succeeded by a calm and fair weather. Our
latitude at this time was 55° 26' S., longitude 5° 52' E., in which
situation we had a great swell from the southward, but no ice in sight.
At one o'clock in the p.m., a breeze springing up at E.N.E., we stood to
S.E. till six, then tacked, and stood to the north, under double-reefed
top-sails and courses, having a very fresh gale attended with snow and
sleet, which fixed to the masts and rigging as it fell, and coated the
whole with ice.
On the 17th the wind continued veering, by little and little, to the
south, till midnight, when it fixed at S.W. Being at this time in the
latitude of 54° 20' S., longitude 6° 33' east, I steered east, having a
prodigious high sea from the south, which assured us no land was near in
that direction.
In the morning of the 18th, it ceased to snow; the weather became fair
and clear; and we found the variation to be 18° 44' west. At noon we
were in the latitude of 54° 25', longitude 8° 46' east. I thought this a
good latitude to keep in, to look for Cape Circumcision; because, if the
land had ever so little extent in the direction of north and south, we
could not miss seeing it, as the northern point is said to lie in 54°.
We had yet a great swell from the south, so that I was now well assured
it could only be an island, and it was of no consequence which side we
fell in with. In the evening Mr Wales made several observations of the
moon, and stars Regulus and Spica; the mean results, at four o'clock
when the observations were made, for finding the time by the watch, gave
9° 15' 20" east longitude. The watch at the same time gave 9° 36' 45".
Soon after the variation was found to be 13° 10' west. It is nearly in
this situation that Mr Bouvet had 1° east. I cannot suppose that the
variation has altered so much since that time; but rather think he had
made some mistake in his observations. That there could be none in ours
was certain, from the uniformity for some time past. Besides, we found
12° 8' west, variation, nearly under this meridian, in January 1773.
During the night the wind veered round by the N.W. to N.N.E. and blew a
fresh gale.
At eight in the morning of the 19th, we saw the appearance of land in
the direction of E. by S., or that of our course; but it proved a mere
fog-bank, and soon after dispersed. We continued to steer E. by S. and
S.E., till seven o'clock in the evening, when being in the latitude of
54° 42' S., longitude 13° 3' E., and the wind having veered to N.E., we
tacked and stood to N.W. under close-reefed topsails and courses; having
a very strong gale attended with snow-showers.
At four o'clock next morning, being in the latitude of 54° 30' S.,
longitude 12° 33'. east, we tacked and stretched to N.E. with a fresh
gale at S.W., attended with snow-showers and sleet. At noon, being in
the latitude of 54° 8' S., longitude 12° 59' E., with a fresh gale at W.
by N., and tolerably clear weather, we steered east till ten o'clock in
the evening, when we brought-to, lest we might pass any land in the
night, of which we however had not the least signs.
At day-break, having made sail, we bore away E., and at noon observed in
latitude 54° 16' S., longitude 16° 13' east, which is 5° to the east of
the longitude in which Cape Circumcision is said to lie; so that we
began to think there was no such land in existence. I however continued
to steer east, inclining a little to the south, till four o'clock in the
afternoon of the next day, when we were in latitude 54° 24' S.,
longitude 19° 18' east.
We had now run down thirteen degrees of longitude in the very latitude
assigned for Bouvet's Land. I was therefore well assured that what he
had seen could be nothing but an island of ice; for, if it had been
land, it is hardly possible we could have missed it, though it were ever
so small. Besides, from the time of leaving the southern lands, we had
not met with the least signs of any other. But even suppose we had, it
would have been no proof of the existence of Cape Circumcision; for I am
well assured that neither seals nor penguins, nor any of the oceanic
birds, are indubitable signs of the vicinity of land. I will allow that
they are found on the coasts of all these southern lands; but are they
not also to be found in all parts of the southern ocean? There are,
however, some oceanic or aquatic birds which point out the vicinity of
land; especially shags, which seldom go out of sight of it; and gannets,
boobies, and men-of-war birds, I believe, seldom go very far out to sea.
As we were now no more than two degrees of longitude front our route to
the south, when we left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purpose to
proceed any farther to the east under this parallel, knowing that no
land could be there. But an opportunity now offering of clearing up some
doubts of our having seen land farther to the south, I steered S.E. to
get into the situation in which it was supposed to lie.
We continued this course till four o'clock the next morning, and then
S.E. by E. and E.S.E., till eight in the evening, at which time we were
in the latitude of 55° 25' S., longitude 23° 22' east, both deduced from
observations made the same day; for, in the morning, the sky was clear
at intervals, and afforded an opportunity to observe several distances
of the sun and moon, which we had not been able to do for some time
past, having had a constant succession of bad weather.
Having now run over the place where the land was supposed to lie,
without seeing the least signs of any, it was no longer to be doubted
but that the ice-islands had deceived us as well as Mr Bouvet. The wind
by this time having veered to the north, and increased to a perfect
storm, attended as usual with snow and sleet, we handed the top-sails
and hauled up E.N.E. under the courses. During the night the wind
abated, and veered to N.W., which enabled us to steer more to the north,
having no business farther south.
CHAPTER VII.
_Heads of what has been done in the Voyage; with some Conjectures
concerning the Formation of Ice-Islands; and an Account of our
Proceedings till our Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope._
1775 February
I had now made the circuit of the southern ocean in a high latitude, and
traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the
possibility of there being a continent, unless near the Pole, and out of
the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, I had not
only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many
new ones, and left, I conceive, very little more to be done even in that
part. Thus I flatter myself, that the intention of the voyage has, in
every respect, been fully answered; the southern hemisphere sufficiently
explored, and a final end put to the searching after a southern
continent, which has, at times, ingrossed the attention of some of the
maritime powers, for near two centuries past, and been a favourite
theory amongst the geographers of all ages.
That there may be a continent, or large tract of land, near the Pole, I
will not deny; on the contrary I am of opinion there is; and it is
probable that we have seen a part of it. The excessive cold, the many
islands and vast floats of ice, all tend to prove that there must be
land to the south; and for my persuasion that this southern land must
lie, or extend, farthest to the north opposite to the southern Atlantic
and Indian oceans, I have already assigned some reasons; to which I may
add the greater degree of cold experienced by us in these seas, than in
the southern Pacific ocean under the same parallels of latitude.
In this last ocean, the mercury in the thermometer seldom fell so low as
the freezing point, till we were in 60° and upwards; whereas in the
others, it fell as low in the latitude of 54°. This was certainly owing
to there being a greater quantity of ice, and to its extending farther
to the north, in these two seas than in the south Pacific; and if ice be
first formed at, or near land, of which I have no doubt, it will follow
that the land also extends farther north.
The formation or coagulation of ice-islands has not, to my knowledge,
been thoroughly investigated. Some have supposed them to be formed by
the freezing of the water at the mouths of large rivers, or great
cataracts, where they accumulate till they are broken off by their own
weight. My observations will not allow me to acquiesce in this opinion;
because we never found any of the ice which we took up incorporated with
earth, or any of its produce, as I think it must have been, had it been
coagulated in land-waters. It is a doubt with me, whether there be any
rivers in these countries. It is certain, that we saw not a river, or
stream of water, on all the coast of Georgia, nor on any of the southern
lands. Nor did we ever see a stream of water run from any of the
ice-islands. How are we then to suppose that there are large rivers? The
valleys are covered, many fathoms deep, with everlasting snow; and, at
the sea, they terminate in icy cliffs of vast height. It is here where
the ice-islands are formed; not from streams of water, but from
consolidated snow and sleet, which is almost continually falling or
drifting down from the mountains, especially in the winter, when the
frost must be intense. During that season, the ice-cliffs must so
accumulate as to fill up all the bays, be they ever so large. This is a
fact which cannot be doubted, as we have seen it so in summer. These
cliffs accumulate by continual falls of snow, and what drifts from the
mountains, till they are no longer able to support their own weight;
and then large pieces break off, which we call ice-islands. Such as have
a flat even surface, must be of the ice formed in the bays, and before
the flat vallies; the others, which have a tapering unequal surface,
must be formed on, or under, the side of a coast composed of pointed
rocks and precipices, or some such uneven surface. For we cannot suppose
that snow alone, as it falls, can form, on a plain surface, such as the
sea, such a variety of high peaks and hills, as we saw on many of the
ice-isles. It is certainly more reasonable to believe that they are
formed on a coast whose surface is something similar to theirs. I have
observed that all the ice-islands of any extent, and before they begin
to break to pieces, are terminated by perpendicular cliffs of clear ice
or frozen snow, always on one or more sides, but most generally all
round. Many, and those of the largest size, which had a hilly and spiral
surface, shewed a perpendicular cliff, or side, from the summit of the
highest peak down to its base. This to me was a convincing proof, that
these, as well as the flat isles, must have broken off from substances
like themselves, that is, from some large tract of ice.
When I consider the vast quantity of ice we saw, and the vicinity of the
places to the Pole where it is formed, and where the degrees of
longitude are very small, I am led to believe that these ice-cliffs
extend a good way into the sea, in some parts, especially in such as are
sheltered from the violence of the winds. It may even be doubted if ever
the wind is violent in the very high latitudes. And that the sea will
freeze over, or the snow that falls upon it, which amounts to the same
thing, we have instances in the northern hemisphere. The Baltic, the
Gulph of St Laurence, the Straits of Belle-Isle, and many other equally
large seas, are frequently frozen over in winter. Nor is this at all
extraordinary, for we have found the degree of cold at the surface of
the sea, even in summer, to be two degrees below the freezing point;
consequently nothing kept it from freezing but the salt it contains, and
the agitation of its surface. Whenever this last ceaseth in winter, when
the frost is set in, and there comes a fall of snow, it will freeze on
the surface as it falls, and in a few days, or perhaps in one night,
form such a sheet of ice as will not be easily broken up. Thus a
foundation will be laid for it to accumulate to any thickness by falls
of snow, without its being at all necessary for the sea-water to
freeze. It may be by this means these vast floats of low ice we find in
the spring of the year are formed, and which, after they break up, are
carried by the currents to the north. For, from all the observations I
have been able to make, the currents every where, in the high latitudes,
set to the north, or to the N.E. or N.W.; but we have very seldom found
them considerable.
If this imperfect account of the formation of these extraordinary
floating islands of ice, which is written wholly from my own
observations, does not convey some useful hints to an abler pen, it
will, however, convey some idea of the lands where they are formed:
Lands doomed by Nature to perpetual frigidness; never to feel the warmth
of the sun's rays; whose horrible and savage aspect I have not words to
describe. Such are the lands we have discovered; what then may we expect
those to be which lie still farther to the south? For we may reasonably
suppose that we have seen the best, as lying most to the north. If any
one should have resolution and perseverance to clear up this point by
proceeding farther than I have done, I shall not envy him the honour of
the discovery; but I will be bold to say, that the world will not be
benefited by it.
I had, at this time, some thoughts of revisiting the place where the
French discovery is said to lie. But then I considered that, if they had
really made this discovery, the end would be as fully answered as if I
had done it myself. We know it can only be an island; and if we may
judge from the degree of cold we found in that latitude, it cannot be a
fertile one. Besides, this would have kept me two months longer at sea,
and in a tempestuous latitude, which we were not in a condition to
struggle with. Our sails and rigging were so much worn, that something
was giving way every hour; and we had nothing left either to repair or
to replace them. Our provisions were in a state of decay, and
consequently afforded little nourishment, and we had been a long time
without refreshments. My people, indeed, were yet healthy, and would
have cheerfully gone wherever I had thought proper to lead them; but I
dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them at a time when we had nothing
left to remove it. I must say farther, that it would have been cruel in
me to have continued the fatigues and hardships they were continually
exposed to, longer than was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour,
throughout the whole voyage, merited every indulgence which it was in my
power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed
themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger which came
in their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as
being at all heightened, by our separation from our consort the
Adventure.
All these considerations induced me to lay aside looking for the French
discoveries, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope; with a resolution,
however, of looking for the isles of Denia and Marseveen, which are laid
down in Dr Halley's variation chart in the latitude of 41° 1/2 S., and
about 4° of longitude to the east of the meridian of the Cape of Good
Hope. With this view I steered N.E., with a hard gale at N.W. and thick
weather; and on the 25th, at noon, we saw the last ice island, being at
this time in the latitude of 52° 52' S., longitude 26° 31' E.
1775 March
The wind abating and veering to the south, on the first of March, we
steered west, in order to get farther from Mr Bouvet's track, which was
but a few degrees to the east of us, being at this time in the latitude
of 46° 44' S., longitude 33° 20' E., in which situation we found the
variation to be 23° 36' W. It is somewhat remarkable, that all the time
we had northerly winds, which were regular and constant for several
days, the weather was always thick and cloudy; but, as soon as they came
south of west, it cleared up, and was fine and pleasant. The barometer
began to rise several days before this change happened; but whether on
account of it, or our coming northward, cannot be determined.
The wind remained not long at south before it veered round by the N.E.
to the N.W., blowing fresh and by squalls, attended, as before, with
rain and thick misty weather. We had some intervals of clear weather in
the afternoon of the 3d, when we found the variation to be 22° 26' W.;
latitude at this time 45° 8' S., longitude 30° 50' E. The following
night was very stormy, the wind blew from S.W. and in excessively heavy
squalls. At short intervals between the squalls the wind would fall
almost to a calm, and then come on again with such fury, that neither
our sails nor rigging could withstand it, several of the sails being
split, and a middle stay-sail being wholly lost. The next morning the
gale abated, and we repaired the damage we had sustained in the best
manner we could.
On the 8th, being in the latitude of 41° 30' S., longitude 26° 51' E.,
the mercury in the thermometer rose to 61, and we found it necessary to
put on lighter clothes. As the wind continued invariably fixed between
N.W. and W., we took every advantage to get to the west, by tacking
whenever it shifted any thing in our favour; but as we had a great swell
against us, our tacks were rather disadvantageous. We daily saw
albatrosses, peterels, and other oceanic birds; but not the least sign
of land.
On the 11th, in the latitude of 40° 40' S., longitude 23° 47' E., the
variation was 20° 48' W. About noon the same day the wind shifted
suddenly from N.W. to S.W., caused the mercury in the thermometer to
fall as suddenly from 62° to 52°; such was the different state of the
air, between a northerly and southerly wind. The next day, having
several hours calm, we put a boat in the water, and shot some
albatrosses and peterels, which, at this time, were highly acceptable.
We were now nearly in the situation where the isles which we were in
search of, are said to lie; however, we saw nothing that could give us
the least hope of finding them.
The calm continued till five o'clock of the next morning, when it was
succeeded by a breeze at W. by S., with which we stood to N.N.W., and at
noon observed in latitude 38° 51' S. This was upwards of thirty miles
more to the north than our log gave us; and the watch shewed that we had
been set to the east also. If these differences did not arise from some
strong current, I know not how to account for them. Very strong currents
have been found on the African coast, between Madagascar and the Cape
of Good Hope, but I never heard of their extending so far from the land;
nor is it probable they do. I rather suppose that this current has no
connection with that on the coast; and that we happened to fall into
some stream which is neither lasting nor regular. But these are points
which require much time to investigate, and must therefore be left to
the industry of future navigators.
We were now two degrees to the north of the parallel in which the isles
of Denia and Marseveen are said to lie. We had seen nothing to encourage
us to persevere in looking after them, and it must have taken up some
time longer to find them, or to prove their non-existence. Every one was
impatient to get into port, and for good reasons: As for a long time we
had had nothing but stale and salt provisions, for which every one on
board had lost all relish. These reasons induced me to yield to the
general wish, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope, being at this time
in the latitude of 38° 38' S., longitude 23° 37' E.
The next day the observed latitude at noon was only seventeen miles to
the north of that given by the log; so that we had either got out of the
strength of the current, or it had ceased.
On the 15th the observed latitude at noon, together with the watch,
shewed that we had had a strong current setting to the S.W., the
contrary direction to what we had experienced on some of the preceding
days, as hath been mentioned.
At day-light, on the 16th, we saw two sail in the N.W. quarter standing
to the westward, and one of them shewing Dutch colours. At ten o'clock
we tacked and stood to the west also, being at this time in the latitude
of 39° 9' S., longitude 22° 38' E.
I now, in pursuance of my instructions, demanded of the officers and
petty officers, the log-books and journals they had kept; which were
delivered to me accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the
Admiralty. I also enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to divulge
where we had been, till they had their lordships' permission so to do.
In the afternoon, the wind veered to the west, and increased to a hard
gale, which was of short duration; for, the next day, it fell, and at
noon veered to S.E. At this time we were in the latitude of 34° 49' S.,
longitude 22° E.; and, on sounding, found fifty-six fathoms water. In
the evening we saw the land in the direction of E.N.E. about six leagues
distant; and, during the fore-part of the night, there was a great fire
or light upon it.
At day-break on the 18th, we saw the land again, bearing N.N.W., six or
seven leagues distant, and the depth of water forty-eight fathoms. At
nine o'clock, having little or no wind, we hoisted out a boat, and sent
on board one of the two ships before-mentioned, which were about two
leagues from us; but we were too impatient after news to regard the
distance. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at west, with which we stood to
the south; and, presently, three sail more appeared in sight to
windward, one of which shewed English colours.
At one, p.m., the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke Polder,
Captain Cornelius Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bosch,
very obligingly, offered us sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare.
Our people were told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the
Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and
that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the
people of New Zealand; so that the story which we heard in Queen
Charlotte's Sound was now no longer a mystery.
We had light airs next, to a calm till ten o'clock the next morning,
when a breeze sprung up at west, and the English ship, which was to
windward, bore down to us. She proved to be the True Briton, Captain
Broadly, from China. As he did not intend to touch at the Cape, I put a
letter on board him for the secretary of the Admiralty.
The account which we had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed to us
by this ship. We also got, from on board her, a parcel of old
newspapers, which were new to us, and gave us some amusement; but these
were the least favours we received from Captain Broadly. With a
generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company's ships, he
sent us fresh provisions, tea, and other articles which were very
acceptable, and deserve from me this public acknowledgment. In the
afternoon we parted company. The True Briton stood out to sea, and we in
for the land, having a very fresh gale at west, which split our fore
top-sail in such a manner, that we were obliged to bring another to the
yard. At six o'clock we tacked within four or five miles of the shore;
and, as we judged, about five or six leagues to the east of Cape
Aguilas. We stood off till midnight, when, the wind having veered round
to the south, we tacked, and stood along-shore to the west. The wind
kept veering more and more in our favour, and at last fixed at E.S.E.;
and blew for some hours a perfect hurricane.
As soon as the storm began to subside, we made sail, and hauled in for
the land. Next day at noon, the Table Mountain over the Cape Town bore
N.E. by E., distant nine or ten leagues. By making use of this bearing
and distance to reduce the longitude shewn by the watch to the Cape
Town, the error was found to be no more than 18' in longitude, which it
was too far to the east. Indeed the difference found between it and the
lunar observations, since we left New Zealand, had seldom exceeded half
a degree, and always the same way.
The next morning, being with us Wednesday the 22d, but with the people
here Tuesday the 21st, we anchored in Table Bay, where we found several
Dutch ships; some French; and the Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East
India Company's ship, from China, bound directly to England, by whom I
sent a copy of the preceding part of this journal, some charts, and
other drawings to the Admiralty.
Before we had well got to an anchor, I dispatched an officer to acquaint
the governor with our arrival, and to request the necessary stores and
refreshments; which were readily granted. As soon as the officer came
back, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was
immediately returned with an equal number.
I now learnt that the Adventure had called here, on her return; and I
found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting me with the loss of
his boat, and of ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The
captain, afterwards, on my arrival in England, put into my hands a
complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of our second and
final separation, which I now lay before the public in the following
section.
CHAPTER VIII.
_Captain Furneaux's Narrative of his Proceedings, in the Adventure,
from, the Time he was separated from the Resolution, to his Arrival in
England; including Lieutenant Burney's Report concerning the Boat's Crew
who were murdered by the Inhabitants of Queen Charlottes Sound_.
1773 October
After a passage of fourteen days from Amsterdam, we made the coast of
New Zealand near the Table Cape, and stood along-shore till we came as
far as Cape Turnagain. The wind then began to blow strong at west, with
heavy squalls and rain, which split many of our sails, and blew us off
the coast for three days; in which time we parted company with the
Resolution, and never saw her afterwards.
1773 November
On the 4th of November, we again got in shore, near Cape Palliser, and
were visited by a number of the natives in their canoes; bringing a
great quantity of cray-fish, which we bought of them for nails and
Otaheite cloth. The next day it blew hard from W.N.W., which again drove
us off the coast, and obliged us to bring-to for two days; during which
time it blew one continual gale of wind, with heavy falls of sleet. By
this time, our decks were very leaky; our beds and bedding wet; and
several of our people complaining of colds; so that we began to despair
of ever getting into Charlotte's Sound, or joining the Resolution.
On the 6th, being to the north of the cape, the wind at S.W., and
blowing strong, we bore away for some bay to complete our water and
wood, being in great want of both, having been at the allowance of one
quart of water for some days past; and even that pittance could not be
come at above six or seven days longer. We anchored in Tolaga Bay on the
9th, in latitude 38° 21' S., longitude 178° 31' east. It affords good
riding with the wind westerly, and regular soundings from eleven to five
fathoms, stiff muddy ground across the bay for about two miles. It is
open from N.N.E. to E.S.E. It is to be observed, easterly winds seldom
blow hard on this shore; but when they do, they throw in a great sea,
so that if it were not for a great undertow, together with a large river
that empties itself in the bottom of the bay, a ship would not be able
to ride here. Wood and water are easily to be had, except when it blows
hard easterly. The natives here are the same as those at Charlotte's
Sound, but more numerous, and seemed settled, having regular plantations
of sweet potatoes, and other roots, which are very good; and they have
plenty of cray and other fish, which we bought of them for nails, beads,
and other trifles, at an easy rate. In one of their canoes we observed
the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers and other
ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive; but, on examination, we
found it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept as
the relic of some deceased relation.
Having got about ten tons of water, and some wood, we sailed for
Charlotte's Sound on the 12th. We were no sooner out than the wind began
to blow hard, dead on the shore, so that we could not clear the land on
either tack. This obliged us to bear away again for the bay, where we
anchored the next morning, and rode out a very heavy gale of wind at E.
by S., which threw in a very great sea. We now began to fear we should
never join the Resolution; having reason to believe she was in Charlotte
Sound, and by this time ready for sea. We soon found it was with great
difficulty we could get any water, owing to the swell setting in so
strong; at last, however, we were able to go on shore, and got both wood
and water.
Whilst we lay here we were employed about the rigging, which was much
damaged by the constant gales of wind we had met with since we made the
coast. We got the booms down on the decks, and having made the ship as
snug as possible, sailed again on the 16th. After this we met with
several gales of wind off the mouth of the Strait; and continued beating
backwards and forwards till the 30th, when we were so fortunate as to
get a favourable wind, which we took every advantage of, and at last got
safe into our desired port. We saw nothing of the Resolution, and began
to doubt her safety; but on going ashore, we discerned the place where
she had erected her tents; and, on an old stump of a tree in the garden,
observed these words cut out, "Look underneath." There we dug, and soon
found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain
Cook, signifying their arrival on the 3d instant, and departure on the
24th; and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of the
Straits to look for us.
We immediately set about getting the ship ready for sea as fast as
possible; erected our tents; sent the cooper on shore to repair the
casks; and began to unstow the hold, to get at the bread that was in
butts; but on opening them found a great quantity of it entirely
spoiled, and most part so damaged, that we were obliged to fix our
copper oven on shore to bake it over again, which undoubtedly delayed us
a considerable time. Whilst we lay here, the inhabitants came on board
as before, supplying us with fish, and other things of their own
manufacture, which we bought of them for nails, etc. and appeared very
friendly, though twice in the middle of the night they came to the tent,
with an intention to steal; but were discovered before they could get
any thing into their possession.
1773 December
On the 17th of December, having refitted the ship, completed our water
and wood, and got every thing ready for sea, we sent our large cutter,
with Mr Rowe, a midshipman, and the boat's crew, to gather wild greens
for the ship's company; with orders to return that evening, as I
intended to sail the next morning. But on the boat's not returning the
same evening, nor the next morning, being under great uneasiness about
her, I hoisted out the launch, and sent her with the second lieutenant,
Mr Burney, manned with the boat's crew and ten marines, in search of
her. My orders to Mr Burney were first, to look well into East Bay, and
then to proceed to Grass Cove, the place to which Mr Rowe had been sent;
and if he heard nothing of the boat there, to go farther up the sound,
and come back along the west shore. As Mr Rowe had left the ship an hour
before the time proposed, and in a great hurry, I was strongly persuaded
that his curiosity had carried him into East Bay, none in our ship
having ever been there; or else, that some accident had happened to the
boat, either by going adrift through the boat-keeper's negligence, or by
being stove among the rocks. This was almost every body's opinion; and
on this supposition, the carpenter's mate was sent in the launch, with
some sheets of tin. I had not the least suspicion that our people had
received any injury from the natives, our boats having frequently been
higher up, and worse provided. How much I was mistaken, too soon
appeared; for Mr Burney having returned about eleven o'clock the same
night, made his report of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be
better described than in his own words, which now follow.
"On the 18th, we left the ship; and having a light breeze in our favour,
we soon got round Long Island, and within Long Point. I examined every
cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, looking well all around
with a spy-glass, which I took for that purpose. At half past one, we
stopped at a beach on the left-hand side going up East Bay, to boil some
victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilst we were
cooking, I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running along a beach to
the head of the bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat and put
off; and, in a short time, arrived at the head of this reach, where we
saw an Indian settlement."
"As we drew near, some of the Indians came down on the rocks, and waved
for us to be gone, but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their
notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of
them double ones, and a great many people; though not so many as one
might expect from the number of houses and size of the canoes. Leaving
the boat's crew to guard the boat, I stepped ashore with the marines
(the corporal and five men), and searched a good many of their houses,
but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Three or four well-beaten
paths led farther into the woods, where were many more houses; but the
people continuing friendly, I thought it unnecessary to continue our
search. Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a
bundle of _Hepatoos_ (long spears), but seeing I looked very earnestly
at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming
unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a
looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the
bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, N.N.W. a good mile, where it ended
in a long sandy beach. I looked all around with the glass, but saw no
boat, canoe, or sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with
firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along."
"I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement,
where the Indians invited us ashore. I enquired of them about the boat,
but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold
us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, in a small beach
adjoining to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled
up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and
ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get
tidings of the cutter. We went ashore, and searched the canoe, where we
found one of the rullock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of
which was known to belong to Mr Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of
the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took
to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining
this, and smelling to it, I found it was fresh. Mr Fannin (the master)
who was with me, supposed it was dog's flesh, and I was of the same
opinion; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon
convinced by most horrid and undeniable proof."
"A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach, tied up, we cut
them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some of fern-root, which
serves them for bread. On, farther search, we found more shoes, and a
hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of
our fore-castle men, it being marked T.H. with an Otaheite
tattow-instrument. I went with some of the people a little way up the
woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot
covered with fresh earth, about four feet diameter, where something had
been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass; and in the
mean time I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her; but seeing a
great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into
the boat, and made what haste I could to be with them before sun-set."
"On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, one
single and three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who,
on our approach; retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of
the water side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was on the
top of the high land, beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down
the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. As we came in, I ordered a
musquetoon to be fired at one of the canoes, suspecting they might be
full of men lying down in the bottom; for they were all afloat, but
nobody was seen in them. The savages on the little hill still kept
hallooing, and making signs for us to land. However, as soon as we got
close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them
much; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they
could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see
the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were
two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves
forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great
composure and deliberation; their pride not suffering them to run. One
of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled off on
all-fours. The other got clear, without any apparent hurt. I then landed
with the marines, and Mr Fannin staid to guard the boat."
"On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for
loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to
which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack had
been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to
see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, such
a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or
thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several
of our people were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance,
the dogs gnawing their entrails."
"Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr Fannin called to us
that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods; on which I
returned to the boat, and hauling along-side the canoes, we demolished
three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the
hill disappeared; and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high
words; I suppose quarrelling whether or no they should attack us, and
try to save their canoes. It now grew dark; I therefore just stepped
out, and looked once more behind the beach to see if the cutter had been
hauled up in the bushes; but seeing nothing of her, returned, and put
off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up
the hill; and to have ventured with half (for half must have been left
to guard the boat) would have been fool-hardiness."
"As we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large fire
about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval,
reaching from the top of the hill down almost to the water-side, the
middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I
consulted with Mr Fannin, and we were both of opinion that we could
expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing
some more of the savages. At leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a general
volley towards where we heard the Indians talking; but, by going in and
out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What
was still worse, it began to rain; our ammunition was more than, half
expended, and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so
many disadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where
nothing could be hoped for but revenge."
"Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East
Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling; we lay on our oars, and
listened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed several times, but to
little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing, and,
indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect, that in all probability
every man of them must have been killed on the spot."
Thus far Mr Burney's report; and to complete the account of this
tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to mention, that the
people in the cutter were Mr Rowe, Mr Woodhouse, Francis Murphy,
quarter-master; William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward
Jones, fore-castle men; John Cavanaugh, and Thomas Milton, belonging to
the after-guard; and James Sevilley, the captain's man, being ten in
all. Most of these were of our very best seamen, the stoutest and most
healthy people in the ship. Mr Burney's party brought on board two
hands, one belonging to Mr Rowe, known by a hurt he had received on it;
the other to Thomas Hill, as before-mentioned; and the head of the
captain's servant. These, with more of the remains, were tied in a
hammock, and thrown over-board, with ballast and shot sufficient to sink
it. None of their arms nor cloaths were found, except part of a pair of
trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of them being fellows.
I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of these
savages; for, the morning Mr Rowe left the ship, he met two canoes,
which came down and staid all the fore-noon in Ship Cove. It might
probably happen from some quarrel which was decided on the spot, or the
fairness of the opportunity might tempt them, our people being so
incautious, and thinking themselves too secure. Another thing which
encouraged the New Zealanders, was, they were sensible that a gun was
not infallible, that they sometimes missed, and that, when discharged,
they must be loaded before they could be used again, which time they
knew how to take advantage of. After their success, I imagine there was
a general meeting on the east side of the sound. The Indians of Shag
Cove were there; this we knew by a cock which was in one of the canoes,
and by a long single canoe, which some of our people had seen four days
before in Shag Cove, where they had been with Mr Rowe in the cutter.
We were detained in the Sound by contrary winds four days after this
melancholy affair happened, during which time we saw none of the
inhabitants. What is very remarkable, I had been several times up in the
same cove with Captain Cook, and never saw the least sign of an
inhabitant, except some deserted towns, which appeared as if they had
not been occupied for several years; and yet, when Mr Burney entered the
cove, he was of opinion there could not be less than fifteen hundred or
two thousand people. I doubt not, had they been apprized of his coming,
they would have attacked him. From these considerations, I thought it
imprudent to send a boat up again; as we were convinced there was not
the least probability of any of our people being alive.
On the 23d, we weighed and made sail out of the Sound, and stood to the
eastward to get clear of the straits; which we accomplished the same
evening, but were baffled for two or three days with light winds, before
we could clear the coast. We then stood to the S.S.E. till we got into
the latitude of 56° south, without any thing remarkable happening,
having a great swell from the southward. At this time the wind began to
blow strong from the S.W., and the weather to be very cold; and as the
ship was low and deep laden, the sea made a continual breach over her,
which kept us always wet; and by her straining, very few of the people
were dry in bed or on deck, having no shelter to keep the sea from them.
The birds were the only companions we had in this vast ocean, except,
now and then, we saw a whale or porpoise; and sometimes a seal or two,
and a few penguins. In the latitude of 58° S., longitude 213°* east,
we fell in with some ice, and, every day, saw more or less, we then
standing to the east. We found a very strong current setting to the
eastward; for by the time we were abreast of Cape Horn, being in the
latitude of 61° S., the ship was a-head of our account eight degrees. We
were very little more than a month from Cape Palliser in New Zealand to
Cape Horn, which is an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and
had continual westerly winds from S.W. to N.W., with a great sea
following.
[* About 147 west longitude, I reckon.]
1774 January
On opening some casks of pease and flour, that had been stowed on the
coals, we found them very much damaged, and not eatable; so thought it
most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope, but first to stand into
the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcision. After being to the
eastward of Cape Horn, we found the winds did not blow so strong from
the westward as usual, but came more from the north, which brought on
thick foggy weather; so that for several days together we could not be
able to get an observation, or see the least sign of the sun. This
weather lasted above a month, being then among a great many islands of
ice, which kept us constantly on the look-out, for fear of running foul
of them, and, being a single ship, made us more attentive. By this time
our people began to complain of colds and pains in their limbs, which
obliged me to haul to the northward to the latitude of 54° S.; but we
still continued to have the same sort of weather, though we had oftener
an opportunity of obtaining observations for the latitude.
1774 February
After getting into the latitude above-mentioned, I steered to the east,
in order, if possible, to find the land laid down by Bouvet. As we
advanced to the east, the islands of ice became more numerous and
dangerous; they being much smaller than they used to be; and the nights
began to be dark.
1774 March
On the 3d of March, being then in the latitude of 54° 4' S., longitude
13° E., which is the latitude of Bouvet's discovery, and half a degree
to the eastward of it, and not seeing the least sign of land, either now
or since we have been in this parallel, I gave over looking for it, and
hauled away to the northward. As our last track to the southward was
within a few degrees of Bouvet's discovery in the longitude assigned to
it, and about three or four degrees to the southward, should there be
any land thereabout, it must be a very inconsiderable island. But I
believe it was nothing but ice: As we, in our first setting out, thought
we had seen land several times, but it proved to be high islands of ice
at the back of the large fields; and as it was thick foggy weather when
Mr Bouvet fell in with it, he might very easily mistake them for land.
On the seventh, being in the latitude of 48° 30' S., longitude 14° 26'
E., saw two large islands of ice.
On the 17th, made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 19th
anchored in Table Bay, where we found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with
his majesty's ships Salisbury and Sea-horse. I saluted the commodore
with, thirteen guns; and, soon after, the garrison with the same number;
the former returned the salute, as usual, with two guns less, and the
latter with an equal number.
1774 March-July
On the 24th, Sir Edward Hughes sailed with the Salisbury and Sea-horse,
for the East Indies; but I remained refitting the ship and refreshing
the people till the 16th of April, when I sailed for England, and on the
14th of July anchored at Spithead.
CHAPTER IX.
_Transactions at the Cape of Good Hope; with an Account of some
Discoveries made by the French; and the Arrival of the Ship at St
Helena._
1775 March 22
I now resume my own Journal, which Captain Furneaux's interesting
narrative, in the preceding section, had obliged me to suspend.
The day after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I went on shore, and
waited on the Governor, Baron Plettenberg, and other principal officers,
who received, and, treated us, with the greatest politeness,
contributing all in their power to make it agreeable. And, as there are
few people more obliging to strangers than the Dutch in general, at this
place, and refreshments of all kinds are no where to be got in such
abundance, we enjoyed some real repose, after the fatigues of a long
voyage.
The good treatment which strangers meet with at the Cape of Good Hope,
and the necessity of breathing a little fresh air, has introduced a
custom, not common any where else (at least I have no where seen it so
strictly observed), which is, for all the officers, who can be spared
out of the ship, to reside on shore. We followed this custom. Myself,
the two Mr Forsters, and Mr Sparrman, took up our abode with Mr Brandt,
a gentleman well known to the English, by his obliging readiness to
serve them. My first care, after my arrival, was to procure fresh-baked
bread, fresh meat, greens, and wine, for those who remained on board;
and being provided, every day during our stay, with these articles, they
were soon restored to their usual strength. We had only three men on
board whom it was thought necessary to send on shore for the recovery of
their health; and for these I procured quarters, at the rate of thirty
stivers, or half-a-crown, per day, for which they were provided with
victuals, drink, and lodging.
We now went to work to supply all our defects. For this purpose, by
permission, we erected a tent on shore, to which we sent our casks and
sails to be repaired. We also struck the yards and topmasts, in order to
overhaul the rigging, which we found in so bad a condition, that almost
every thing, except the standing rigging, was obliged to be replaced
with new, and that was purchased at a most exorbitant price. In the
article of naval stores, the Dutch here, as well as at Batavia, take a
shameful advantage of the distress of foreigners.
That our rigging, sails, etc. should be worn out, will not be wondered
at, when it is known, that during this circumnavigation of the globe,
that is, from our leaving this place to our return to it again, we had
sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues; an extent of voyage nearly
equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth, and
which, I apprehend, was never sailed by any ship in the same space of
time before. And yet, in all this great run, which had been made in all
latitudes between 9° and 71, we sprung neither low-masts, top-mast,
lower, nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast
shroud; which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, must be
owing to the good properties of our ship.
One of the French ships which were at anchor in the bay, was the Ajax
Indiaman, bound to Pondicherry, commanded by Captain Crozet. He had been
second in command with Captain Marion, who sailed from this place with
two ships, in March 1772, as hath been already mentioned. Instead of
going from hence to America, as was said, he stood away for New Zealand;
where, in the Bay of Isles, he and some of his people were killed by the
inhabitants. Captain Crozet, who succeeded to the command, returned by
the way of the Phillipine Isles, with the two ships, to the island of
Mauritius. He seemed to be a man possessed of the true spirit of
discovery, and to have abilities. In a very obliging manner he
communicated to me a chart, wherein were delineated not only his own
discoveries, but also that of Captain Kerguelen, which I found laid down
in the very situation where we searched for it; so that I can by no
means conceive how both we and the Adventure missed it.
Besides this land, which Captain Crozet told us was a long but very
narrow island, extending east and west, Captain Marion, in about the
latitude of 48° south, and from 16° to 30° of longitude east of the Cape
of Good Hope, discovered six islands, which were high and barren. These,
together with some islands lying between the Line and the southern
tropic in the Pacific Ocean, were the principal discoveries made in this
voyage, the account of which, we were told, was ready for publication.
By Captain Crozet's chart it appeared, that a voyage had been made by
the French across the South Pacific Ocean in 1769, under the command of
one Captain Surville; who, on condition of his attempting discoveries,
had obtained leave to make a trading voyage to the coast of Peru. He
fitted out, and took in a cargo, in some part of the East Indies;
proceeded by way of the Phillipine Isles; passed near New Britain; and
discovered some land in the latitude of 10° S., longitude 158° east, to
which he gave his own name. From hence he steered to the south; passed,
but a few degrees, to the west of New Caledonia; fell in with New
Zealand at its northern extremity, and put into Doubtful Bay; where, it
seems, he was, when I passed it, on my former voyage in the Endeavour.
From New Zealand Captain Surville steered to the east, between the
latitude of 35° and 41° south, until he arrived on the coast of America;
where, in the port of Callao, in attempting to land, he was drowned.
These voyages of the French, though undertaken by private adventurers,
have contributed something towards exploring the Southern Ocean. That of
Captain Surville clears up a mistake which I was led into, in imagining
the shoals off the west end of New Caledonia, to extend to the west as
far as New Holland; it proves that there is an open sea in that space,
and that we saw the N.W. extremity of that country.
From the same gentleman, we learnt, that the ship which had been at
Otaheite before our first arrival there this voyage, was from New Spain;
and that, in her return, she had discovered some islands in the latitude
of 32° S., and under the meridian of 130° W. Some other islands, said to
be discovered by the Spaniards, appeared on this chart; but Captain
Crozet seemed to think they were inserted from no good authorities.
We were likewise informed of a later voyage undertaken by the French,
under the command of Captain Kerguelen, which had ended much to the
disgrace of that commander.
While we lay in Table Bay, several foreign ships put in and out, bound
to and from India, viz. English, French, Danes, Swedes, and three
Spanish frigates, two of them going to, and one coming from Manilla. It
is but very lately that the Spanish ships have touched here; and these
were the first that were allowed the same privileges as other European
friendly nations.
1775 March-April
On examining our rudder, the pintles were found to be loose, and we were
obliged to unhang it, and take it on shore to repair. We were also
delayed for want of caulkers to caulk the ship, which was absolutely
necessary to be done before we put to sea. At length I obtained two
workmen from one of the Dutch ships; and the Dutton English East
Indiaman coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice obliged me with two more;
so that by the 26th of April this work was finished: And having got on
board all necessary stores, and a fresh supply of provisions and water,
we took leave of the governor and other principal officers, and the next
morning repaired on board. Soon after the wind coming fair, we weighed
and put to sea; as did also the Spanish frigate Juno, from Manilla, a
Danish Indiaman, and the Dutton.
As soon as we were under sail, we saluted the garrison with thirteen
guns; which compliment was immediately returned with the same number.
The Spanish frigate and Danish Indiaman both saluted us as we passed
them, and I returned each salute with an equal number of guns. When we
were clear of the bay the Danish ship steered for the East Indies, the
Spanish frigate for Europe, and we and the Dutton for St Helena.
Depending on the goodness of Mr Kendall's watch, I resolved to try to
make the island by a direct course. For the first six days, that is,
till we got into the latitude of 27° S., longitude 11° 1/2 W. of the
cape, the winds were southerly and S.E. After this we had variable light
airs for two days; they were succeeded by a wind at S.E. which continued
to the island, except a part of one day, when it was at N.E. In general
the wind blew faint all the passage, which made it longer than common.
1775 May
At day-break in the morning of the 15th of May, we saw the island of St
Helena at the distance of fourteen leagues; and at midnight anchored in
the road before the town, on the N.W. side of the island. At sun-rise
the next morning, the castle, and also the Dutton, saluted us, each with
thirteen guns; on my landing, soon after, I was saluted by the castle
with the same number, and each of the salutes was returned by the ship.
Governor Skettowe and the principal gentlemen of the island, received
and treated me, during my stay, with the greatest politeness; by shewing
me every kind of civility in their power.
Whoever views St Helena in its present state, and can but conceive what
it must have been originally, will not hastily charge the inhabitants
with want of industry. Though, perhaps, they might apply it to more
advantage, were more land appropriated to planting of corn, vegetables,
roots, etc. instead of being laid out in pasture, which is the present
mode. But this is not likely to happen, so long as the greatest part of
it remains in the hands of the company and their servants. Without
industrious planters, this island can never flourish, and be in a
condition to supply the shipping with the necessary refreshments.
Within these three years a new church has been built; some other new
buildings were in hand; a commodious landing-place for boats has been
made; and several other improvements, which add both strength and beauty
to the place.
During our stay here, we finished some necessary repairs of the ship,
which we had not time to do at the Cape. We also filled all our empty
water-casks; and the crew were served with fresh beef, purchased at
five-pence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is the only
refreshment to be had worth mentioning.
By a series of observations made at the Cape town, and at James Fort in
St Helena, at the former by Messrs Mason and Dixon, and at the latter by
Mr Maskelyne, the astronomer royal, the difference of longitude between
these two places is 24° 12' 15", only two miles more than Mr Kendall's
watch made. The lunar observations made by Mr Wales, before we arrived
at the island, and after we left it, and reduced to it by the watch,
gave 5° 51' for the longitude of James Fort; which is only five miles
more west than it is placed by Mr Maskelyne. In like manner the
longitude of the Cape Town was found within 5' of the truth. I mention
this to shew how near the longitude of places may be found by the lunar
method, even at sea, with the assistance of a good watch.
CHAPTER X.
_Passage from St Helena to the Western Islands, with a Description of
the Island of Ascension and Fernando Noronha._
1775 May
On the 21st in the evening, I took leave of the governor, and repaired
on board. Upon my leaving the shore, I was saluted with thirteen guns;
and upon my getting under sail, with the Dutton in company, I was
saluted with thirteen more; both of which I returned.
After leaving St Helena, the Dutton was ordered to steer N.W. by W. or
N.W. by compass, in order to avoid falling in with Ascension; at which
island, it was said, an illicit trade was carried on between the
officers of the India Company's ships, and some vessels from North
America, who, of late years, had frequented the island on pretence of
fishing whales or catching turtle, when their real design was to wait
the coming of the India ships. In order to prevent their homeward-bound
ships from falling in with these smugglers, and to put a stop to this
illicit trade, the Dutton was ordered to steer the course
above-mentioned, till to the northward of Ascension. I kept company with
this ship till the 24th, when, after putting a packet on board her for
the Admiralty, we parted: She continuing her course to the N.W., and I
steering for Ascension.
In the morning of the 28th I made the island; and the same evening
anchored in Cross Bay on the N.W. side, in ten fathoms water, the bottom
a fine sand, and half a mile from the shore. The Cross Hill, so called
on account of a cross, or flag-staff erected upon it, bore by compass S.
38° E.; and the two extreme points of the bay extended from N.E. to S.W.
We remained here till the evening of the 31st, and notwithstanding we
had several parties out every night, we got but twenty-four turtle, it
being rather too late in the season; however, as they weighed between
four or five hundred pounds each, we thought ourselves not ill off. We
might have had a plentiful supply of fish in general, especially of that
sort called Old Wives, of which I have no where seen such abundance.
There were also cavalies, conger eels, and various other sorts; but the
catching of any of these was not attended to, the object being turtle.
There are abundance of goats, and aquatic birds, such as men-of-war and
tropic birds, boobies, etc.
The island of Ascension is about ten miles in length, in the direction
of N.W. and S.E., and about five or six in breadth. It shews a surface
composed of barren hills and vallies, on the most of which not a shrub
or plant is to be seen for several miles, and where we found nothing but
stones and sand, or rather flags and ashes; an indubitable sign that the
isle, at some remote time, has been destroyed by a volcano, which has
thrown up vast heaps of stones, and even hills. Between these heaps of
stones we found a smooth even surface, composed of ashes and sand, and
very good travelling upon it; but one may as easily walk over broken
glass bottles as over the stones. If the foot deceives you, you are sure
to be cut or lamed, which happened to some of our people. A high
mountain at the S.E. end of the isle seems to be left in its original
state, and to have escaped the general destruction. Its soil is a kind
of white marl, which yet retains its vegetative qualities, and produceth
a kind of purslain, spurge, and one or two grasses. On these the goats
subsist, and it is at this part of the isle where they are to be found,
as also land-crabs, which are said to be very good.
I was told, that about this part of the isle is some very good land on
which might be raised many necessary articles; and some have been at the
trouble of sowing turnips and other useful vegetables. I was also told
there is a fine spring in a valley which disjoins two hills on the top
of the mountain above-mentioned; besides great quantities of fresh water
in holes in the rocks, which the person who gave me this information,
believed was collected from rains. But these supplies of water can only
be of use to the traveller; or to those who may be so unfortunate as to
be shipwrecked on the island; which seems to have been the fate of some
not long ago, as appeared by the remains of a wreck we found on the N.E.
side. By what we could judge, she seemed to have been a vessel of about
one hundred and fifty tons burthen.
While we lay in the road, a sloop of about seventy tons burthen came to
an anchor by us. She belonged to New York, which place she left in
February, and having been to the coast of Guinea with a cargo of goods,
was come here to take in turtle to carry to Barbadoes. This was the
story which the master, whose name was Greves, was pleased to tell, and
which may, in part, be true. But I believe the chief view of his coming
here, was the expectation of meeting with some of the India ships. He
had been in the island near a week, and had got on board twenty turtle.
A sloop, belonging to Bermuda, had sailed but a few days before with one
hundred and five on board, which was as many as she could take in; but
having turned several more on the different sandy beaches, they had
ripped open their bellies, taken out the eggs, and left their carcasses
to putrify; an act as inhuman as injurious to those who came after them.
Part of the account I have given of the interior parts of this island I
received from Captain Greves, who seemed to be a sensible intelligent
man, and had been all over it. He sailed in the morning of the same day
we did.
Turtle, I am told, are to be found at this isle from January to June.
The method of catching them is to have people upon the several sandy
bays, to watch their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which is always
in the night, and then to turn them on their backs, till there be an
opportunity to take them off the next day. It was recommended to us to
send a good many men to each beach, where they were to lie quiet till
the turtle were ashore, and then rise and turn them at once. This method
may be the best when the turtle are numerous; but when there are but
few, three or four men are sufficient for the largest beach; and if they
keep patroling it, close to the wash of the surf, during the night, by
this method they will see all that come ashore, and cause less noise
than if there were more of them. It was by this method we caught the
most we got; and this is the method by which the Americans take them.
Nothing is more certain, than that all the turtle which are found about
this island, come here for the sole purpose of laying their eggs; for we
met with none but females; and of all those which we caught, not one had
any food worth mentioning in its stomach; a sure sign, in my opinion,
that they must have been a long time without any; and this may be the
reason why the flesh of them is not so good as some I have eat on the
coast of New South Wales, which were caught on the spot where they fed.
The watch made 8° 45' difference of longitude between St Helena and
Ascension; which, added to 5° 49' the longitude of James Fort in St
Helena, gives 14° 34' for the longitude of the Road of Ascension, or 14°
30' for the middle of the island, the latitude of which is 8° S. The
lunar observations made by Mr Wales, and reduced to the same point of
the island by the watch, gave 14° 28' 30" west longitude.
On the 31st of May, we left Ascension, and steered to the northward with
a fine gale at S.E. by E. I had a great desire to visit the island of St
Matthew, to settle its situation; but as I found the wind would not let
me fetch it, I steered for the island of Fernando de Noronha on the
coast of Brazil, in order to determine its longitude, as I could not
find this had yet been done. Perhaps I should have performed a more
acceptable service to navigation, if I had gone in search of the island
of St Paul, and those shoals which are said to lie near the equator, and
about the meridian of 20° W.; as neither their situation nor existence
are well known. The truth is, I was unwilling to prolong the passage in
searching for what I was not sure to find; nor was I willing to give up
every object, which might tend to the improvement of navigation or
geography, for the sake of getting home a week or a fortnight sooner. It
is but seldom that opportunities of this kind offer; and when they do,
they are too often neglected.
In our passage to Fernando de Noronha, we had steady fresh gales
between the S.E. and E.S.E., attended with fair and clear weather; and
as we had the advantage of the moon, a day or night did not pass without
making lunar observations for determining our longitude. In this run,
the variation of the compass gradually decreased from 11° W., which it
was at Ascension., to 1° W., which we found off Fernando de Noronha.
This was the mean result of two compasses, one of which gave 1° 37', and
the other 23' W.
1775 June
On the 9th of June at noon we made the island of Fernando de Noronha,
bearing S.W. by W. 1/2 W., distant six or seven leagues, as we
afterwards found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked hills,
the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. As we drew
near the S.E. part of the isle, we perceived several unconnected sunken
rocks lying near a league from the shore, on which the sea broke in a
great surf. After standing very near these rocks, we hoisted our
colours, and then bore up round the north end of the isle, or rather
round a group of little islets; for we could see that the land was
divided by narrow channels. There is a strong fort on the one next the
main island, where there are several others; all of which seemed to have
every advantage that nature can give them, and they are so disposed, as
wholly to command all the anchoring and landing-places about the island.
We continued to steer round the northern point, till the sandy beaches
(before which is the road for shipping) began to appear, and the forts
and the peaked hills were open to the westward of the said point. At
this time, on a gun being fired from one of the forts, the Portuguese
colours were displayed, and the example was followed by all the other
forts. As the purpose for which I made the island was now answered, I
had no intention to anchor; and therefore, after firing a gun to
leeward, we made sail and stood away to the northward with a fine fresh
gale at E.S.E. The peaked hill or church tower bore S., 27° W., distant
about four or five miles; and from this point of view it leans, or
overhangs, to the east. This hill is nearly in the middle of the island,
which no where exceeds two leagues in extent, and shews a hilly unequal
surface, mostly covered with wood and herbage.
Ulloa says, "This island hath two harbours capable of receiving ships of
the greatest burden; one is on the north side, and the other is on the
N.W. The former is, in every respect, the principal, both for shelter
and capacity, and the goodness of its bottom; but both are exposed to
the north and west, though these winds, particularly the north, are
periodical, and of no long continuance." He further says, that you
anchor in the north harbour (which is no more than what I would call a
road) to thirteen fathoms water, one-third of a league from shore,
bottom of fine sand; the peaked hill above-mentioned bearing S.W. 2°
southerly.*
[* See Don Antonio d'Ulloa's Book, vol. ii. chap. 3. page 95
to 102, where there is a very particular account of this island.]
This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east winds. One
of my seamen had been on board a Dutch India ship, who put in at this
isle in her way out in 1770. They were very sickly, and in want of
refreshments and water. The Portuguese supplied them with some buffaloes
and fowls; and they watered behind one of the beaches in a little pool,
which was hardly big enough to dip a bucket in. By reducing the observed
latitude at noon to the peaked hill, its latitude will be 3° 53' S.; and
its longitude, by the watch, carried on from St Helena, is 32° 34' W.;
and by observations of the sun and moon, made before and after we made
the Isle, and reduced to it by the watch, 32° 44' 30" W. This was the
mean result of my observations. The results of those made by Mr Wales,
which were more numerous, gave 32° 23'. The mean of the two will be
pretty near the watch, and probably nearest the truth. By knowing the
longitude of this isle, we are able to determine that of the adjacent
east coast of Brazil; which, according to the modern charts, lies about
sixty or seventy leagues more to the west. We might very safely have
trusted to these charts, especially the variation chart for 1744, and Mr
Dalrymple's of the southern Atlantic ocean*.
[* Ulloa says, that the chart places this island sixty leagues from the
coast of Brazil; and that the Portuguese pilots, who often make the
voyage, judge it to be eighty leagues; but, by taking the mean between
the two opinions, the distance may be fixed at seventy leagues.]
On the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we crossed the equator
in the longitude of 32° 14' W. We had fresh gales at E.S.E., blowing in
squalls, attended by showers of rain, that continued at certain
intervals, till noon the next day, after which we had twenty-four hours
fair weather.
At noon on the 13th, being in the latitude of 3° 49' N., longitude 31°
47' W., the wind became variable, between the N.E. and S.; and we had
light airs and squalls by turns, attended by hard showers of rain, and
for the most part dark gloomy weather, which continued till the evening
of the 15th, when, in the latitude of 5° 47' N., longitude 31° W., we
had three calm days, in which time we did not advance above ten or
twelve leagues to the north. We had fair weather and rain by turns; the
sky, for the most part, being obscured, and sometimes by heavy dense
clouds which broke in excessive hard showers.
At seven o'clock in the evening on the 18th, the calm was succeeded by a
breeze at east, which the next day increasing and veering to and fixing
at N.E., we stretched to N.W. with our tacks on board. We made no doubt
that we had now got the N.E. trade-wind, as it was attended with fair
weather, except now and then some light showers of rain; and as we
advanced to the north the wind increased, and blew a fresh top-gallant
gale.
On the 21st, I ordered the still to be fitted to the largest copper,
which held about sixty-four gallons. The fire was lighted at four
o'clock in the morning, and at six the still began to run. It was
continued till six o'clock in the evening; in which time we obtained
thirty-two gallons of fresh water, at the expence of one bushel and a
half of coals; which was about three-fourths of a bushel more than was
necessary to have boiled the ship's company's victuals only; but the
expence of fuel was no object with me. The victuals were dressed in the
small copper, the other being applied wholly to the still; and every
method was made use of to obtain from it the greatest quantity of fresh
water possible; as this was my sole motive for setting it to work. The
mercury in the thermometer at noon was eighty-four and a half, and
higher it is seldom found at sea. Had it been lower, more water, under
the same circumstances, would undoubtedly have been produced; for the
colder the air is, the cooler you can keep the still, which will
condense the steam the faster. Upon the whole, this is an useful
invention; but I would advise no man to trust wholly to it. For although
you may, provided you have plenty of fuel and good coppers, obtain as
much water as will support life, you cannot, with all your efforts,
obtain sufficient to support health, in hot climates especially, where
it is the most wanting: For I am well convinced, that nothing
contributes more to the health of seamen, than having plenty of water.
The wind now remained invariably fixed at N.E. and E.N.E., and blew
fresh with squalls, attended with showers of rain, and the sky for the
most part cloudy. On the 25th, in the latitude of 16° 12' N., longitude
37° 20' W., seeing a ship to windward steering down upon us, we
shortened sail in order to speak with her; but finding she was Dutch by
her colours, we made sail again and left her to pursue her course, which
we supposed was to some of the Dutch settlements in the West Indies. In
the latitude of 20° N., longitude 39° 45' W., the wind began to veer to
E. by N. and E.; but the weather remained the same; that is, we
continued to have it clear and cloudy by turns, with light squalls and
showers. Our track was between N.W. by N. and N.N.W., till noon on the
28th, after which our course made good was N. by W., being at this time
in the latitude of 21° 21' N., longitude 40° 6' W. Afterwards, the wind
began to blow a little more steady, and was attended with fair and clear
weather. At two o'clock in the morning of the 30th, being in the
latitude of 24° 20' N., longitude 40° 47' W., a ship, steering to the
westward, passed us within hail. We judged her to be English, as they
answered us in that language; but we could not understand what they
said, and they were presently out of sight.
In the latitude of 29° 30', longitude 41° 30', the wind slackened and
veered more to the S.E. We now began to see some of that sea-plant,
which is commonly called gulph-weed, from a supposition that it comes
from the Gulph of Florida. Indeed, for aught I know to the contrary, it
may be a fact; but it seems not necessary, as it is certainly a plant
which vegetates at sea. We continued to see it, but always in small
pieces, till we reached the latitude 36°, longitude 39° W., beyond which
situation no more appeared.
1775 July
On the 5th of July, in the latitude of 22° 31' 30" N., longitude 40° 29'
W., the wind veered to the east, and blew very faint: The next day it
was calm; the two following days we had variable light airs and calms by
turns; and, at length, on the 9th, having fixed at S.S.W., it increased
to a fresh gale, with which we steered first N.E. and then E.N.E., with
a view of making some of the Azores, or Western Isles. On the 11th, in
the latitude of 36° 45' N., longitude 36° 45' W., we saw a sail which
was steering to the west; and the next day we saw three more.
CHAPTER XI.
_Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Fayal, a Description of the Place,
and the Return of the Resolution to England._
1775 July
At five o'clock in the evening of the 13th, we made the island of Fayal,
one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico, under which we spent the
night in making short boards. At day-break the next morning, we bore
away for the bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where at eight o'clock, we
anchored in twenty fathoms water, a clear sandy bottom, and something
more than half a mile from the shore. Here we moored N.E. and S.W.,
being directed so to do by the master of the port, who came on board
before we dropped anchor. When moored, the S.W. point of the bay bore S.
16° W., and the N.E. point N. 33° E.; the church at the N.E. end of the
town N. 38° W., the west point of St George's Island N. 42° E., distant
eight leagues; and the isle of Pico, extending from N. 74° E. to S. 46°
E., distant four or five miles.
We found in the bay the Pourvoyeur, a large French frigate, an American
sloop, and a brig belonging to the place. She had come last from the
river Amazon, where she took in a cargo of provision from the Cape Verd
Islands; but, not being able to find them, she steered for this place,
where she anchored about half an hour before us.
As my sole design in stopping here was to give Mr Wales an opportunity
to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable us to fix with some
degree of certainty the longitude of these islands, the moment we
anchored, I sent an officer to wait on the English consul, and to notify
our arrival to the governor, requesting his permission for Mr Wales to
make observations on shore, for the purpose above mentioned. Mr Dent,
who acted as consul in the absence of Mr Gathorne, not only procured
this permission, but accommodated Mr Wales with a convenient place in
his garden to set up his instruments; so that he was enabled to observe
equal altitudes the same day.
We were not more obliged to Mr Dent for the very friendly readiness he
shewed in procuring us this and every other thing we wanted, than for
the very liberal and hospitable entertainment we met with at his house,
which was open to accommodate us both night and day.
During our stay, the ship's company was served with fresh beef; and we
took on board about fifteen tons of water, which we brought off in the
country boats, at the rate of about three shillings per ton. Ships are
allowed to water with their own boats; but the many inconveniencies
attending it, more than overbalance the expence of hiring shore-boats,
which is the most general custom.
Fresh provisions for present use may be got, such as beef, vegetables,
and fruit; and hogs, sheep, and poultry for sea stock, all at a pretty
reasonable price; but I do not know that any sea-provisions are to be
had, except wine. The bullocks and hogs are very good, but the sheep are
small and wretchedly poor.
The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which they
supply Pico and some of the other isles. The chief town is called Villa
de Horta. It is situated in the bottom of the bay, close to the edge of
the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town,
and a wall of stone-work, extending along the sea-shore from the one to
the other. But these works are suffered to go to decay, and serve more
for shew than strength. They heighten the prospect of the city, which
makes a fine appearance from the road; but, if we except the Jesuits'
college, the monasteries and churches, there is not another building
that has any thing to recommend it, either outside or in. There is not a
glass window in the place, except what are in the churches, and in a
country-house which lately belonged to the English consul; all the
others being latticed, which, to an Englishman, makes them look like
prisons.
This little city, like all others belonging to the Portuguese, is
crowded with religious buildings, there being no less than three
convents of men and two of women, and eight churches, including those
belonging to the convents, and the one in the Jesuits' college. This
college is a fine structure, and is situated on an elevation in the
pleasantest part of the city. Since the expulsion of that order, it has
been suffered to go to decay, and will probably, in a few years, be no
better than a heap of ruins.
Fayal, although the most noted for wines, does not raise sufficient for
its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, where there is no
road for shipping; but being brought to De Horta, and from thence
shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal
Wine.
The bay, or road of Fayal, is situated at the east end of the isle,
before the Villa de Horta, and facing the west end of Pico. It is two
miles broad, and three quarters of a mile deep, and hath a semi-circular
form. The depth of water is from twenty to ten and even six fathoms, a
sandy bottom, except near the shore, and particularly near the S.W.
head, off which the bottom is rocky, also without the line which joins
the two points of the bay, so that it is not safe to anchor far out. The
bearing before mentioned, taken when at anchor, will direct any one to
the best ground. It is by no means a bad road, but the winds most to be
apprehended, are those which blow from between the S.S.W. and S.E.; the
former is not so dangerous as the latter, because, with it, you can
always get to sea. Besides this road, there is a small cove round the
S.W. point, called Porto Pierre, in which, I am told, a ship or two may
lie in tolerable safety, and where they sometimes heave small vessels
down.
A Portuguese captain told me, that about half a league from the road in
the direction of S.E., in a line between it and the south side of Pico,
lies a sunken rock, over which is twenty-two feet water, and on which
the sea breaks in hard gales from the south. He also assured me, that of
all the shoals that are laid down in our charts and pilot-books about
these isles, not one has any existence but the one between the islands
of St Michael and St Mary, called Hormingan. This account may be
believed, without relying entirely upon it. He further informed me, that
it is forty-five leagues from Fayal to the island of Flores; and that
there runs a strong tide between Fayal and Pico, the flood setting to
the N.E. and the ebb to the S.W., but that, out at sea, the direction is
E. and W. Mr Wales having observed the times of high and low water by
the shore, concluded that it must be high water at the full and change,
about twelve o'clock, and the water riseth about four or five feet.
The distance between Fayal and Flores was confirmed by Mr Rebiers,
lieutenant of the French frigate, who told me, that after being by
estimation two leagues due south of Flores, they made forty-four leagues
on a S.E. by E. course by compass, to St Catherine's Point on Fayal.
I found the latitude of the ship at anchor 38° 31' 55" N.
in the bay
By a mean of seventeen sets of lunar 28 24 30 W.
observations, and reduced to the bay
by the watch, the longitude was made
By a mean of six sets after leaving it, 28 53 22
and reduced back by the watch
-----------------
Longitude by observation 28 38 56
-----------------
Ditto, by the watch 28 55 45
Error of the watch on our arrival at 16 26-1/2
Portsmouth
-----------------
True longitude by the watch 28 39 18-1/2
_________________
I found the variation of the compass, by several azimuths, taken by
different compasses on board the ship, to agree very well with the like
observations made by Mr Wales on shore; and yet the variation thus found
is greater by 5° than we found it to be at sea, for the azimuths taken
on board the evening before we came into the bay, gave no more than 16°
18' W. variation, and the evening after we came out 17° 33' W.
I shall now give some account of the variation, as observed in our run
from the island of Fernando De Noronha to Fayal. The least variation we
found was 37' W. which was the day after we left Fernando De Noronha,
and in the latitude of 33' S., longitude 32° 16' W. The next day, being
nearly in the same longitude, and in the latitude of 1° 25' N., it was
1° 23' W.; and we did not find it increase till we got into the latitude
of 5° N., longitude 31° W. After this our compasses gave different
variation, viz. from 3° 57' to 5° 11' W. till we arrived in the latitude
of 26° 44' N., longitude 41° W., when we found 6° W. It then increased
gradually, so that in the latitude of 35° N., longitude 40° W., it was
10° 24' W.; in the latitude of 38° 12' N., longitude 32° 1/2 W. it was
14° 47'; and in sight of Fayal 16° 18' W., as mentioned above.
Having left the bay, at four in the morning of the 19th, I steered for
the west end of St George's Island. As soon as we had passed it, I
steered E. 1/2 S. for the Island of Tercera; and after having run
thirteen leagues, we were not more than one league from the west end. I
now edged away for the north side, with a view of ranging the coast to
the eastern point, in order to ascertain the length of the island; but
the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, I gave
up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for England.
On the 29th, we made the land near Plymouth. The next morning we
anchored at Spithead; and the same day I landed at Portsmouth, and set
out for London, in company with Messrs Wales, Forsters, and Hodges.
Having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, in which
time, and under all changes of climate, I lost but four men, and only
one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss, at the conclusion of this
journal, to enumerate the several causes to which, under the care of
Providence, I conceive this uncommon good state of health, experienced
by my people, was owing.
In the Introduction, mention has been made of the extraordinary
attention paid by the Admiralty in causing such articles to be put on
board, as either from experience or suggestion it was judged would tend
to preserve the health of the seamen. I shall not trespass upon the
reader's time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were
found the most useful.
We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made _Sweet
Wort_. To such of the men as shewed the least symptoms of the scurvy,
and also to such as were thought to be threatened with that disorder,
this was given, from, one to two or three pints a-day each man; or in
such proportion as the surgeon found necessary, which sometimes amounted
to three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the best anti-scorbutic
sea-medicines yet discovered; and, if used in time, will, with proper
attention to other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy from
making any great progress for a considerable while. But I am not
altogether of opinion that it will cure it at sea.
_Sour Krout_, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a wholesome
vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly antiscorbutic; and it spoils
not by keeping. A pound of this was served to each man, when at sea,
twice-a-week, or oftener, as was thought necessary.
_Portable Broth_ was another great article, of which we had a large
supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other proportion as
circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their pease, three days in the
week; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was
boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, every morning for breakfast; and
also with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several
nourishing and wholesome messes, and was the means of making the people
eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would otherwise have
done.
_Rob of Lemon and Orange_ is an antiscorbutic we were not without. The
surgeon made use of it in many cases with great success.
Amongst the articles of victualling, we were supplied with _Sugar_ in
the room of _Oil_, and with _Wheat_ for a part of our _Oatmeal_; and
were certainly gainers by the exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very
good antiscorbutic; whereas oil (such as the navy is usually supplied
with), I am of opinion, has the contrary effect.
But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as provisions
or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless supported by
certain regulations. On this principle, many years experience, together
with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, Captains Campbell, Wallis,
and other intelligent officers, enabled me to lay a plan, whereby all
was to be governed.
The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary
occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather as
if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally dry clothes to
shift themselves, when they happened to get wet. Care was also taken to
expose them as little to wet weather as possible.
Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding,
cloaths, etc. constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the
ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was aired
with fires; and when this could not be done, she was smoked with
gun-powder, mixed with vinegar or water. I had also, frequently, a fire
made in an iron pot, at the bottom of the well, which was of great use
in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this, and to
cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great
attention cannot be paid; the least neglect occasions a putrid and
disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove.
Proper attention was paid to the ship's coppers, so that they were kept
constantly clean.
The fat which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never suffered to
be given to the people; being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy.
I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though we
did not want it, because I look upon fresh water from the shore to be
more wholesome than that which has been kept some time on board a ship.
Of this essential article we were never at an allowance, but had always
plenty for every necessary purpose. Navigators in general cannot,
indeed, expect, nor would they wish to meet with such advantages in this
respect, as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us into
very high latitudes. But the hardships and dangers inseparable from that
situation, were in some degree compensated by the singular felicity we
enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an
ocean strewed with ice.
We came to few places, where either the art of man, or the bounty of
nature, had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in
the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure whatever of
any kind could be met with, by every means in my power; and to oblige
our people to make use thereof, both by my example and authority; but
the benefits arising from refreshments of any kind soon became so
obvious, that I had little occasion, to recommend the one, or to exert
the other.
It doth not become me to say how far the principal objects of our voyage
have been obtained. Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events,
nor been diversified by sudden transitions of fortune; though my
relation of it has been more employed in tracing our course by sea, than
in recording our operations on shore; this, perhaps, is a circumstance
from which the curious reader may infer, that the purposes for which we
were sent into the Southern Hemisphere, were diligently and effectually
pursued. Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better
enabled to gratify curiosity; but we hope our not having found it, after
all our persevering researches, will leave less room for future
speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored.
But, whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with
real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention
to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation, which
facts enable me to make; that our having discovered the possibility of
preserving health amongst a numerous ship's company, for such a length
of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued
hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion
of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent
shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of
philosophers.
(Tables of the route of the Resolution and the Adventure, the variation
of the compass and meteorological observations during the voyage.)
* * * * *
A VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE SOCIETY ISLES.
DIRECTIONS FOR THE PRONUNCIATION OF THE VOCABULARY.
As all nations who are acquainted with the method of communicating their
ideas by characters, (which represent the sound that conveys the idea,)
have some particular method of managing, or pronouncing, the sounds
represented by such characters, this forms a very essential article in
the constitution of the language of any particular nation, and must,
therefore, be understood before we can make any progress in learning, or
be able to converse in it. But as this is very complex and tedious to a
beginner, by reason of the great variety of powers the characters, or
letters, are endued with under different circumstances, it would seem
necessary, at least in languages which have never before appeared in
writing, to lessen the number of these varieties, by restraining the
different sounds, and always representing the same simple ones by the
same character; and this is no less necessary in the English than any
other language, as this variety of powers is very frequent, and without
being taken notice of in the following Vocabulary, might render it
entirely unintelligible. As the vowels are the regulations of all
sounds, it is these only that need be noticed, and the powers allotted
to each of these in the Vocabulary is subjoined.
_A_ in the English language is used to represent two different simple
sounds, as in the word Arabia, where the first and last have a different
power from the second. In the Vocabulary this letter must always have
the power, or be pronounced like the first and last in Arabia. The other
power, or sound, of the second _a_, is always represented in the
Vocabulary by _a_ and _i_, printed in Italics thus, _ai_.
_E_ has likewise two powers, or it is used to represent two simple
sounds, as in the words Eloquence, Bred, Led, etc. and it may be said to
have a third power, as in the words Then, When, etc. In the first case,
this letter is only used at the beginning of words, and wherever it is
met with in any other place in the words of the Vocabulary, it is used
as in the second case: But never as in the third example; for this
power, or sound, is every where expressed by the _a_ and _i_
before-mentioned, printed in Italics.
_I_ is used to express different simple sounds, as in the words
Indolence, Iron, and Imitation. In the Vocabulary it is never used as in
the first case, but in the middle of words; it is never used as in the
second example, for that sound is always represented by _y_, nor is it
used as in the last case, that sound being always represented by two
_e_'s, printed in Italics in this manner, _ee_.
_O_ never alters in the pronunciation, i.e. in this Vocabulary, of a
simple sound, but is often used in this manner, _oo_, and sounds as in
Good, Stood, etc.
_U_ alters, or is used to express different simple sounds, as in Unity,
or Umbrage. Here the letters _e_ and _u_, printed in Italics _eu_ are
used to express its power as in the first example, and it always retains
the second power, wherever it is met with.
_Y_ is used to express different sounds, as in My, By, etc. etc. and in
Daily, Fairly, etc. Wherever it is met with in the middle, or end, (i.e.
anywhere but at the beginning,) of a word, it is to be used as in the
first example; but is never to be found as in the second, for that
sound, or power, is always represented by the Italic letter _e_. It has
also a third power, as in the words Yes, Yell, etc., which is retained
every where in the Vocabulary, at least in the beginning of words, or
when it goes before another vowel, unless directed to be sounded
separately by a mark over it, as thus, ÿ a.
Unless in a few instances, these powers of the vowels are used
throughout the Vocabulary; but, to make the pronunciation still less
liable to change, or variation, a few marks are added to the words, as
follows:--
This mark ¨ as öa, means that these letters are to be expressed singly.
The letters in Italic, as _ee_, or _oo_, make but one simple sound.
When a particular stress is laid on any part of a word in the
pronunciation, an accent is placed over that letter where it begins, or
rather between that and the preceding one.
It often happens that a word is compounded as it were of two, or in some
cases the same word, or syllable, is repeated. In these circumstances, a
comma is placed under them at this division, where a rest, or small
space, of time is left before you proceed to pronounce the other part,
but it must not be imagined that this is a full stop.
_Examples in all these Cases._
Röa, Great, long, distant. E'r_ee_ma, Five. Ry'po_ee_a, Fog, _or
mist_. E'h_oo_ra, To invert, _or turn upside down_. Par_oo_, r_oo_,
A partition, _division, or screen_.
A VOCABULARY, etc.
A.
To abide, _or remain_ Ete'_ei_.
An Abode, _or place of residence_, Noho`ra.
Above, _not below_, N_eea_, s. Tie'n_eea_.
An Abscess, Fe'fe.
Action, _opposed to rest_, Ta'er_ee_.
Adhesive, _of an adhesive or sticking
quality_ Oo'p_ee_re.
Adjoining, _or contiguous to_, E'p_ee_iho.
Admiration, _an interjection of_, A'w_ai_, s. A'w_ai_
to P_ee_r_ee_ai.
An adulterer, T_ee_ho t_ee_ho, s. Teeho
_or one that vexes a married woman_ ta-rar
To agitate, _or shake a thing,
as water, etc._ E_oo_a'w_ai_.
Aliment, _or food of any kind_, Mäa.
Alive, _that is not dead_, Waura.
All, _the whole, not a part_, A'ma_oo_.
Alone, _by one's self_, Ota'h_oi_.
Anger, _or to be angry_, Warrad_ee_,
s. R_ee_d_ee_.
To angle, _or fish_, E'h_oo_tee.
_The_ Ankle, Momoa.
_The inner_ Ankle, A't_oo_a,ewy.
Answer, _an answer to a question_, Oo'm_ai_a.
Approbation, _or consent_, Mad_oo_ho'why.
_Punctuated_ Arches _on the hips_, E'var're.
_The_ Arm, R_ee_ma.
_The_ Armpit, E'e.
_An_ arrow, E'_oo_me.
Arrow, _the body of an arrow or reed_, O'wha.
_The point of an_ Arrow, To'_ai_, s. O'möa.
Ashamed, _to be ashamed or confused_, Ama, s. He'ama.
Ashore, _or on shore_, Te Euta.
To ask _for a thing_, Ho'my, s. Ha'py my.
Asperity, _roughness_, Tarra, tarra.
An Assassin,_murderer, or rather
man-killer, soldier, Taata,Töa. or
warrior_,
An Assembly, _or meeting_, Ete_ou_'rooa. Atherina,
A'n_ai_h_eu_.
Avaricious, _parsimonious, ungenerous_, P_ee_'p_ee_re.
Averse, _unwillingness to do a thing_, Fata, h_oi_to' _hoi_to.
Authentic,_true_, Par_ou_, m_ou_.
Awake, _not asleep_, Arra arra, s. E'ra.
Awry,_or to one side; as a wry neck_, Na'na.
An Axe, _hatchet, or adze_, Töe.
Ay, _yes; an affirmation_, _Ai_.
B.
A Babe, _or child_, Mydidde.
A Batchelor, _or unmarried person_, E'ev_ee_ (taata.)
The_ Back, T_oo_a_.
To wipe the_ Backside, Fy'r_oo_,too'ty.
Bad, _it is not good_, 'Eè'no.
A Bag _of straw_, Ete'öe, s.Eäte.
Bait, _for fish_, Era'_eu_noo.
Baked _in the oven_, Et_oo_n_oo_.
Bald-headed, O_o_po'b_oo_ta.
Bamboo, E_e_n_ee'ou_.
A Bank, _or shoal_, E'paa.
Bare, _naked, applied to a person that
is undressed_, Ta'turra.
The Bark _of a tree_, Ho'hore.
Barren _land_, Fe'nooa Ma'_ou_re.
_A large round_ Basket _of twig_, He'na.
_A small_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_, V_ai_'hee.
_A long _Basket _of cocoa leaves_, Apo'_ai_ra.
A Basket _of plantain stock_, Papa' M_aiee_a.
_A fisher's_ Basket, Er're'vy.
_A round_ Basket _of cocoa leaves_, Mo'ene.
A Bastard, Fanna T_oo_'n_ee_a.
Bastinado, _to bastinade or flog a person_, Tapra'h_ai_.
To bathe, Ob'_oo_.
A Battle, _or fight_, E'motto.
A Battle-axe, O'morre.
To bawl, _or cry aloud_, T_ei_mo'toro.
A Bead, Pöe.
The Beard, _Oo_me _oo_me.
To beat _upon, or strike a thing_, T_oo_'py or T_oo_'ba_ee_.
To beat _a drum_, Er_oo_'k_oo_.
To beckon _a person with the hand_, Ta'rappe.
A Bed, _or bed-place_, E'ro_ee_, s. Möi'a.
To bedaub, _or bespatter_, Par'ry.
A Bee, E'räo.
A Beetle, P_ee_re'te_ee_.
Before, _not behind_, Te'möa.
A Beggar, _a person that is troublesome_, Tapa'r_oo_.
_continually asking for some-what_,
Behind, _not before_, Te'm_oo_r_ee_.
To belch, Er_oo_'y.
Below, _as below stairs_, Tei'dirro, s. T_ee_diraro.
Below, _underneath, far below_, O'raro.
To bend _any thing, as a stick_, etc. Fa'fe'fe.
Benevolence, _generosity_, Ho'röa,
e.g. _you are a generous man_, Taata ho roa öe.
Between, _in the middle, betwixit two_, Fero'p_oo_.
To bewail, _or lament by crying_, E'tat_ee_.
Bigness, _largeness, great_, Ara'hay.
A Bird, Manoo.
A Bitch, _Oo_re, e'_oo_ha.
To bite, _as a dog_, A ah_oo_.
Black, _colour_, Ere, ere.
Bladder, Töa meeme.
A_ Blasphemer, _a person who speaks_ T_oo_na, (t_aa_ta.)
_disrespectfully of their deities_,
Blind, Matta-po.
A Blister, _raised by a burn or
other means_, Mei'_ee_
Blood, Toto, s. Eh_ooei_.
To blow _the nose_, Fatte.
The blowing, _or breathing of a whale_, Ta'hora.
Blunt, _as a blunt tool of any sort_, Ma'n_ee_a.
_The carved_ Boards _of a Maray_, E'ra.
_A little_ Boat, _or canoe_, E'väa.
A Boil, Fe'fe.
Boldness, Eäw_ou_.
A Bone, E'ev_ee_.
A Bonetto, _a fish so called_, Peera'ra.
To bore _a hole_, Ehoo'_ee_, s. Eh_oo_'o.
A Bow, E'fanna.
A Bow-string, Aröa'h_oo_a.
To bow _with the head_, Etoo'o.
_A young_ Boy, My'didde.
Boy, _a familiar way of speaking_, He'aman_ee_.
The Brain _of any animal_, A b_oo_ba.
A Branch _of a tree or plant_, E'ama.
Bread-fruit, _or the fruit of the
bread-tree_, _Oo_r_oo_.
Bread-fruit, _a particular sort of it_, E'patëa.
_An insipid paste of_ Bread-fruit, Eh'öe.
_The gum of the _Bread-tree, Tappo'_oo_r_oo_.
_The leaf of the_ Bread-tree, E'da'_oo_r_oo_.
_The pith of the_ Bread-tree, Po'_oo_r_oo_.
To break _a thing_, O whatte, s. Owhan ne,
s. Fatte.
The Breast, O'ma
A Breast-plate _made of twigs, ornamented
with feathers, dog's hair, Ta_oo_me.
and pearl-shell_,
To breathe, Watte Weete wee
të,'aho.
Bring, _to ask one to bring a thing_, Ho'my.
Briskness, _being brisk or quick_, T_ee_ t_ee_re.
Broiled, _or roasted, as broiled meat_, _Oo_aw_ee_ra.
Broken, _or cut_, 'Mot_oo_.
The Brow, _or forehead_, E'ry.
A brown _colour_, Aur_au_ra.
Buds _of a tree or plant_, Te, arre ha_oo_.
A Bunch _of any fruit_, Eta.
To burn _a thing_, Döod_oo_e.
A Butterfly, Pepe.
C.