_Proceedings on the Coast of New Caledonia, with Geographical and
Nautical Observations._
1774 September
Everything being in readiness to put to sea, at sun-rise, on the 13th of
September, we weighed, and with a fine gale at E. by S., stood out for the
same channel we came in by. At half past seven we were in the middle of it.
Observatory Isle bore S. 5° E., distant four miles, and the isle of Balabea
W.N.W. As soon as we were clear of the reef, we hauled the wind to the
starboard tack, with a view of plying in to the S.E.; but as Mr Gilbert was
of opinion that he had seen the end, or N.W. extremity of the land, and
that it would be easier to get round by the N.W., I gave over plying, and
bore up along the outside of the reef, steering N.N.W., N.W., and N.W. by
W., as it trended. At noon the island of Balabea bore S. by W., distant
thirteen miles; and what we judged to be the west end of the great land,
bore S.W. 1/2 S., and the direction of the reef was N.W. by W., latitude
observed 19° 53' 20". Longitude from Observatory Isle 14' W. We continued
to steer N.W. by W. along the outside of the reef till three o'clock, at
which time the isle of Balabea bore S. by E. 1/2 E. In this direction we
observed a partition in the reef, which we judged to be a channel, by the
strong tide which set out of it. From this place the reef inclined to the
north for three or four leagues, and then to the N.W. We followed its
direction, and as we advanced to N.W., raised more land, which seemed to be
connected with what we had seen before; so that Mr Gilbert was mistaken,
and did not see the extremity of the coast. At five o'clock this land bore
W. by N. 1/2 N., distant twenty miles; but what we could see of the reef
trended in the direction of N.W. by N.
Having hauled the wind to the starboard tack, and spent the night plying,
on the 14th, at sun-rise, the island of Balabea bore S. 6 E., and the land
seen the preceding night W., but the reef still trended N.W., along which
we steered with a light breeze at E.S.E. At noon we observed in latitude
19° 28', longitude from Observatory Isle 27' W. We had now no sight of
Balabea; and the other land, that is, the N.W. part of it, bore W. by S.
1/2 S., but we were not sure if this was one continued coast, or separate
islands. For though some partitions were seen, from space to space, which
made it look like the latter, a multitude of shoals rendered a nearer
approach to it exceedingly dangerous, if not impracticable. In the
afternoon, with a fine breeze at E.S.E., we ranged the outside of these
shoals, which we found to trend in the direction of N.W. by W., N.W. by N.,
and N.N.E. At three o'clock we passed a low sandy isle, lying on the outer
edge of the reef, in latitude 19° 25', and in the direction of N.E. from
the north-westernmost land, six or seven leagues distant. So much as we
could see of this space was strewed with shoals, seemingly detached from
each other; and the channel leading in amongst them appeared to be on the
S.E. side of the sandy isle; at least, there was a space where the sea did
not break. At sun-set we could but just see the land, which bore S.W. by
S., about ten leagues distant. A clear horizon produced the discovery of no
land to the westward of this direction; the reef too trended away W. by N.
1/2 N., and seemed to terminate in a point which was seen from the mast-head.
Thus every thing conspired to make us believe that we should soon get
round these shoals; and with these flattering expectations we hauled the
wind, which was at E.N.E., and spent the night making short boards.
Next morning at sun-rise, seeing neither land nor breakers, we bore away
N.W. by W., and two hours after saw the reef extending N.W. farther than
the eye could reach; no land was to be seen. It was therefore probable that
we had passed its N.W. extremity; and, as we had seen from the hills of
Balade its extent to the S.W., it was necessary to know how far it extended
to the east or southeast, while it was in our power to recover the coast;
for, by following the direction of the shoals, we might have been carried
so far to leeward as not to be able to beat back without considerable loss
of time. We were already far out of sight of land; and there was no knowing
how much farther we might be carried, before we found an end to them. These
considerations, together with the risk we must run in exploring a sea
strewed with shoals, and where no anchorage, without them, is to be found,
induced me to abandon the design of proceeding round by the N.W., and to
ply up to the S.E., in which direction I knew there was a clear sea. With
this view we tacked and stood to the S.E., with the wind at N.E. by E., a
gentle breeze. At this time we were in the latitude of 19° 7' S., longitude
163° 57' E.
In standing to the S.E. we did but just weather the point of the reef we
had passed the preceding evening. To make our situation the more dangerous
the wind began to fail us; and at three in the afternoon it fell calm, and
left us to the mercy of a great swell, setting directly on the reef, which
was hardly a league from us. We sounded, but found no bottom with a line of
two hundred fathoms. I ordered the pinnace and cutter to be hoisted out to
tow the ship, but they were of little use against so great a swell. We,
however, found that the ship did not draw near the reef so fast as might be
expected; and at seven o'clock a light air at N.N.E. kept her head to the
sea, but it lasted no longer than midnight, when it was succeeded by a dead
calm.
At day-break on the 16th we had no sight of the reef; and at eleven, a
breeze springing up at S.S.W., we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to
S.E. At noon we observed in 19° 35' S., which was considerably more to the
south than we expected, and shewed that a current or tide had been in our
favour all night, and accounted for our getting so unexpectedly clear of
the shoals. At two o'clock p.m. we had again a calm which lasted till nine,
when it was succeeded by a light air from E.N.E. and E., with which we
advanced but slowly.
On the 17th at noon, we observed in latitude 19° 54', when the isle of
Balabea bore S. 68° W., ten and a half leagues distant. We continued to
ply, with variable light winds, between N.E. and S.E., without meeting with
any thing remarkable till the 20th at noon, when Cape Colnett bore
N. 78° W., distant six leagues. From this cape the land extended round by
the south to E.S.E. till it was lost in the horizon, and the country
appeared with many hills and vallies. Latitude observed 20° 41', longitude
made from Observatory Isle 1° 8' E. We stood in shore with a light breeze
at east till sun-set, when we were between two and three leagues off. The
coast extended from S. 42° 1/2 E. to N. 59° W. Two small islets lay without
this last direction, distant from us four or five miles; some others lay
between us and the shore, and to the east, where they seemed to be
connected by reefs, in which appeared some openings from space to space.
The country was mountainous, and had much the same aspect as about Balade.
On one of the western small isles was an elevation like a tower; and over a
low neck of land within the isle were seen many other elevations,
resembling the masts of a fleet of ships.
Next day at sun-rise, after having stood off all night with a light breeze
at S.E., we found ourselves about six leagues from the coast; and in this
situation we were kept by a calm till ten in the evening, when we got a
faint land-breeze at S.W., with which we steered S.E. all night.,
On the 22d at sun-rise the land was clouded, but it was not long before the
clouds went off, and we found, by our land-marks, that we had made a good
advance. At ten o'clock, the land-breeze being succeeded by a sea-breeze at
E. by S., this enabled us to stand in for the land, which at noon extended
from N. 78° W. to S. 31° 1/2 E., round by the S. In this last direction the
coast seemed to trend more to the south in a lofty promontory, which, on
account of the day, received the name of Cape Coronation. Latitude 22° 2',
longitude 167° 7' 1/2 E. Some breakers lay between us and the shore, and
probably they were connected with those we had seen before.
During the night, we had advanced about two leagues to the S.E.; and at
day-break on the 23d an elevated point appeared in sight beyond Cape
Coronation, bearing S. 23° E. It proved to be the south-east extremity of
the coast, and obtained the name of Queen Charlotte's Foreland. Latitude
22° 16' S., longitude 167° 14' E. About noon, having got a breeze from the
N.E., we stood to S.S.E., and as we drew towards Cape Coronation, saw in a
valley to the south of it, a vast number of those elevated objects
before-mentioned; and some low land under the foreland was wholly covered with
them. We could not agree in our opinions of what they were. I supposed them
to be a singular sort of trees, being too numerous to resemble any thing
else; and a great deal of smoke kept rising all the day from amongst those
near the cape. Our philosophers were of opinion that this was the smoke of
some internal and perpetual fire. My representing to them that there was no
smoke here in the morning would have been of no avail, had not this eternal
fire gone out before night, and no more smoke been seen after. They were
still more positive that the elevations were pillars of basaltes, like
those which compose the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. At sun-set, the wind
veering round to the south, we tacked and stood off, it not being safe to
approach the shore in the dark. At day-break we stood in again, with a
faint land-breeze between E.S.E. and S.S.E. At noon observed, in latitude
21° 59' 30", Cape Coronation being west southerly, distant seven leagues,
and the foreland S. 38° W. As we advanced S.S.W. the coast beyond the
foreland began to appear in sight; and at sun-set we discovered a low
island lying S.S.E, about seven miles from the foreland. It was one of
those which are generally surrounded with shoals and breakers. At the same
time a round hill was seen bearing S. 24° E, twelve leagues distant. During
night, having had variable light winds, we advanced but little either way.
On the 25th, about ten o'clock a.m., having got a fair breeze at E.S.E., we
stood to the S.S.W., in hopes of getting round the foreland; but, as we
drew near, we perceived more low isles, beyond the one already mentioned,
which at last appeared to be connected by breakers, extending towards the
foreland, and seeming to join the shore. We stood on till half past three
o'clock, when we saw, from the deck, rocks, just peeping above the surface
of the sea, on the shoal above-mentioned. It was now time to alter the
course, as the day was too far spent to look for a passage near the shore,
and we could find no bottom to anchor in during the night. We therefore
stood to the south to look for a passage without the small isles. We had a
fine breeze at E.S.E., but it lasted no longer than five o'clock, when it
fell to a dead calm. Having sounded, a line of 170 fathoms did not reach
the bottom, though we were but a little way from the shoals, which, instead
of following the coast to S.W., took a S.E. direction towards the hill we
had seen the preceding evening, and seemed to point out to us that it was
necessary to go round that land. At this time the most advanced point on
the main bore S. 68° W., distant nine or ten leagues. About seven o'clock
we got a light breeze at north, which enabled us to steer out E.S.E., and
to spend the night with less anxiety. On some of the low isles were many of
those elevations already mentioned. Every one was now satisfied they were
trees, except our philosophers, who still maintained that they were
basaltes.
About day-break on the 26th, the wind having shifted to S.S.W., we
stretched to S.E. for the hill before mentioned. It belonged to an island
which at noon extended from S. 16° E. to S. 7° W., distant six leagues.
Latitude observed 22° 16' S. In the p.m. the wind freshened, and veering to
S.S.E., we stretched to the east, till two a.m., on the 27th, when we
tacked and stood to S.W., with hopes of weathering the island; but we fell
about two miles short of our expectations, and had to tack about a mile
from the east side of the island, the extremes bearing from N.W. by N. to
S.W., the hill W., and some low isles, lying off the S.E. point, S. by W.
These seemed to be connected with the large island by breakers. We sounded
when in stays, but had no ground with a line of eighty fathoms. The skirts
of this island were covered with the elevations more than once mentioned.
They had much the appearance of tall pines, which occasioned my giving that
name to the island. The round hill, which is on the S.W. side, is of such a
height as to be seen fourteen or sixteen leagues. The island is about a
mile in circuit, and situated in latitude 22° 38' S., longitude 167° 40' E.
Having made two attempts to weather the Isle of Pines before sun-set, with
no better success, than before, this determined me to stretch off till
midnight. This day at noon the thermometer was at 68° 3/4 which is lower
than it had been since the 27th of February.
Having tacked at midnight, assisted by the currents and a fresh gale at E.
S.E. and S.E., next morning at day-break we found ourselves several leagues
to windward of the Isle of Pines, and bore away large, round the S.E. and
S. sides. The coast from the S.E., round by the S. to the W., was strewed
with sand-banks, breakers, and small low isles, most of which were covered
with the same lofty trees that ornamented the borders of the greater one.
We continued to range the outside of these small isles and breakers, at
three-fourths of a league distance, and as we passed one, raised another,
so that they seemed to form a chain extending to the isles which lie off
the foreland. At noon we observed, in latitude 22° 44' 36" S. the Isle of
Pines extending from N by E 1/2 E. to E. by N.; and Cape Coronation N. 32°
30' W distant seventeen leagues. In the afternoon, with a fine gale at
east, we steered N.W. by W., along the outside of the shoals, with a view
of falling in with the land a little to S.W. of the foreland. At two
o'clock p.m. two low islets were seen bearing W. by S., and as they were
connected by breakers, which seemed to join those on our starboard, this
discovery made it necessary to haul off S.W., in order to get clear of them
all. At three, more breakers appeared, extending from the low isles towards
the S.E. We now hauled out close to the wind, and, in an hour and a half,
were almost on board the breakers, and obliged to tack. From the mast-head
they were seen to extend as far as E.S.E., and the smoothness of the sea
made it probable that they extended to the north of east, and that we were
in a manner surrounded by them. At this time the hill on the Isle of Pines
bore N. 71 1/2 E., the foreland N. 1/4 W., and the most advanced point of
land on the S.W. coast bore N.W., distant fifteen or sixteen leagues. This
direction of the S.W. coast, which was rather within the parallel of the
N.E., assured us that this land extended no farther to the S.W. After
making a short trip to N.N.E., we stood again to the south, in expectation
of having a better view of the shoals before sun-set. We gained nothing by
this but the prospect of a sea strewed with shoals, which we could not
clear but by returning in the track by which we came. We tacked nearly in
the same place where we had tacked before, and on sounding found a bottom
of fine sand. But anchoring in a strong gale, with a chain of breakers to
leeward, being the last resource, I rather chose to spend the night in
making short boards over that space we had, in some measure, made ourselves
acquainted with in the day: And thus it was spent, but under the terrible
apprehension, every moment, of falling on some of the many dangers which
surrounded us.
Day-light shewed that our fears were not ill-founded, and that we had been
in the most imminent danger; having had breakers continually under our lee,
and at a very little distance from us. We owed our safety to the
interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk manner in
which the ship was managed; for, as we were standing to the north, the
people on the lee-gangway and forecastle saw breakers under the lee-bow,
which we escaped by quickly tacking the ship.
I was now almost tired of a coast which I could no longer explore, but at
the risk of losing the ship, and ruining the whole voyage. I was, however,
determined not to leave it, till I knew what trees those were which had
been the subject of our speculation; especially as they appeared to be of a
sort useful to shipping, and had not been seen any where but in the
southern part of this land. With this view, after making a trip to the
south, to weather the shoals under our lee, we stood to the north, in hopes
of finding anchorage under some of the islets on which these trees grow. We
were stopped by eight o'clock by the shoals which lie extended between the
Isle of Pines and Queen Charlotte's Foreland; and found soundings off them
in fifty-five, forty, and thirty-six fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The
nearer we came to these shoals, the more we saw of them, and we were not
able to say if there was any passage between the two lands.
Being now but a few miles to windward of the low isles lying off the
Foreland, mentioned on the 25th and 26th, I bore down to the one next to
us. As we drew near it, I perceived that it was unconnected with the
neighbouring shoals, and that it is probable we might get to an anchor
under its lee or west side. We therefore stood on, being conducted by an
officer at the mast-head; and after hauling round the point of the reef
which surrounds the isle, we attempted to ply to windward, in order to get
nearer the shore. Another reef to the north confined us to a narrow
channel, through which ran a current against us, that rendered this attempt
fruitless; so that we were obliged to anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water,
the bottom fine coral sand; the isle bearing W. by N. one mile distant. As
soon as this was done, we hoisted out a boat, in which I went on ashore,
accompanied by the botanists. We found the tall trees to be a kind of
spruce pine, very proper for spars, of which we were in want. After making
this discovery, I hastened on board in order to have more time after
dinner, when I landed again with two boats, accompanied by several of the
officers and gentlemen, having with us the carpenter and some of his crew,
to cut down such trees as were wanting. While this was doing I took the
bearings of several lands round. The hill on the Isle of Pines bore
S. 59 30' E; the low point of Queen Charlotte's Foreland N. 14° 30' W.; the
high land over it, seen over two low isles, N. 20° W.; and the most
advanced point of land to the west, bore west, half a point south, distant
six or seven leagues. We had, from several bearings, ascertained the true
direction of the coast from the foreland to this point, which I shall
distinguish by the name of Prince of Wales's Foreland. It is situated in
the latitude of 22° 29' S., longitude 166° 57' E., is of considerable
height, and, when it first appears above the horizon, looks like an island.
From this cape, the coast trended nearly N.W. This was rather too northerly
a direction to join that part which we saw from the hills of Balade. But as
it was very high land which opened off the cape in that direction, it is
very probable that lower land, which we could not see, opened sooner; or
else the coast more to the N.W. takes a more westerly direction, in the
same manner as the N.E. coast. Be this as it may, we pretty well know the
extent of the land, by having it confined within certain limits. However, I
still entertained hopes of seeing more of it, but was disappointed.
The little isle upon which we landed, is a mere sandbank, not exceeding
three-fourths of a mile in circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grew
the Etoa-tree of Otaheite, and a variety of other trees, shrubs, and
plants. These gave sufficient employment to our botanists, all the time we
stayed upon it, and occasioned my calling it Botany Isle. On it were
several water-snakes, some pigeons, and doves, seemingly different from any
we had seen. One of the officers shot a hawk, which proved to be of the
very same sort as our English fishing-hawks. Several fire-places, branches,
and leaves very little decayed, remains of turtle, etc. shewed that people
had lately been on the isle. The hull of a canoe, precisely of the same
shape as those we had seen at Balade, lay wrecked in the sand. We were now
no longer at a loss to know of what trees they make their canoes, as they
can be no other than these pines. On this little isle were some which
measured twenty inches diameter, and between sixty and seventy feet in
length, and would have done very well for a foremast to the Resolution, had
one been wanting. Since trees of this size are to be found on so small a
spot, it is reasonable to expect to find some much larger on the main, and
larger isles; and, if appearances did not deceive us, we can assert it.
If I except New Zealand, I, at this time, knew of no island in the South
Pacific Ocean, where a ship could supply herself with a mast or yard, were
she ever so much distressed for want of one. Thus far the discovery is or
may be valuable. My carpenter, who was a mast-maker as well as a shipwright,
two trades he learnt in Deptford-yard, was of opinion that these
trees would make exceedingly good masts. The wood is white, close-grained,
tough, and light. Turpentine had exuded out of most of the trees, and the
sun had inspissated it into a rosin, which was found sticking to the
trunks, and lying about the roots. These trees shoot out their branches
like all other pines; with this difference, that the branches of these are
much smaller and shorter; so that the knots become nothing when the tree is
wrought for use. I took notice, that the largest of them had the smallest
and shortest branches, and were crowned, as it were, at the top, by a
spreading branch like a bush. This was what led some on board into the
extravagant notion of their being basaltes: Indeed no one could think of
finding such trees here. The seeds are produced in cones; but we could find
none that had any in them, or that were in a proper state for vegetation or
botanical examination. Besides these, there was another tree or shrub of
the spruce-fir kind, but it was very small. We also found on the isle a
sort of scurvy-grass, and a plant, called by us Lamb's Quarters, which,
when boiled, eat like spinnage.
Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding-sail booms, boat-masts,
etc., and night approaching, we returned with them on board.
The purpose for which I anchored under this isle being answered, I was now
to consider what was next to be done. We had from the top-mast-head taken a
view of the sea around us, and observed the whole, to the west, to be
strewed with small islets, sand-banks, and breakers, to the utmost extent
of our horizon. They seemed indeed not to be all connected, and to be
divided by winding channels. But when I considered that the extent of this
S.W. coast was already pretty well determined, the great risk attending a
more accurate survey, and the time it would require to accomplish it, on
account of the many dangers we should have to encounter, I determined not
to hazard the ship down to leeward, where we might be so hemmed in as to
find it difficult to return, and by that means lose the proper season for
getting to the south. I now wished to have had the little vessel set up,
the frame of which we had on board. I had some thoughts of doing this, when
we were last at Otaheite, but found it could not be executed, without
neglecting the caulking and other necessary repairs of the ship, or staying
longer there than the route I had in view would admit. It was now too late
to begin setting her up, and then to use her in exploring this coast; and
in our voyage to the south, she could be of no service. These reasons
induced me to try to get without the shoals; that is, to the southward of
them.
Next morning at day-break, we got under sail with a light breeze at E. by
N. We had to make some trips to weather the shoals to leeward of Botany
Isle; but when this was done the breeze began to fail; and at three p.m. it
fell calm. The swell, assisted by the current, set us fast to S.W. towards
the breakers, which were yet in sight in that direction. Thus we continued
till ten o'clock, at which time a breeze springing up at N.N.W. we steered
E.S.E.; the contrary course we had come in; not daring to steer farther
south till daylight.
1774 October
At three o'clock next morning, the wind veered to S.W., blew hard, and in
squalls, attended with rain, which made it necessary to proceed with our
courses up and top-sails on the cap, till day-break, when the hill on the
Isle of Pines bore north; and our distance from the shore in that direction
was about four leagues. We had now a very strong wind at S.S.W. attended by
a great sea; so that we had reason to rejoice at having got clear of the
shoals before this gale overtook us. Though every thing conspired to make
me think this was the westerly monsoon, it can hardly be comprehended under
that name, for several reasons; first, because it was near a month too soon
for these winds; secondly, because we know not if they reach this place at
all; and lastly, because it is very common for westerly winds to blow
within the tropics. However, I never found them to blow so hard before, or
so far southerly. Be these things as they may, we had now no other choice
but to stretch to S.E., which we accordingly did with our starboard tacks
aboard; and at noon we were out of sight of land.
The gale continued with very little alteration till noon next day; at which
time we observed in latitude 23° 18', longitude made from the Isle of Pines
1° 54' E. In the afternoon we had little wind from the south, and a great
swell from the same direction: And many boobies, tropic, and men-of-war
birds were seen. At eleven o'clock a fresh breeze sprung up at W. by S.,
with which we stood to the south. At this time we were in the latitude of
23° 18', longitude 169° 49' E., and about forty-two leagues south of the
Hebrides.
At eight o'clock in the morning, on the third, the wind veered to S.W. and
blew a strong gale by squalls, attended with rain. I now gave over all
thought of returning to the land we had left. Indeed, when I considered the
vast ocean we had to explore to the south; the state and condition of the
ship, already in want of some necessary stores; that summer was approaching
fast, and that any considerable accident might detain us in this sea
another year; I did not think it advisable to attempt to regain the land.
Thus I was obliged, as it were by necessity, for the first time, to leave a
coast I had discovered, before it was fully explored.--I called it New
Caledonia; and, if we except New Zealand, it is perhaps the largest island
in the South Pacific Ocean. For it extends from the latitude of 19° 37', to
22° 30', S., and from the longitude of 163° 37' to 167° 14' E. It lies
nearly N.W. 1/2 W., and S.E. 1 E., and is about eighty-seven leagues long
in that direction; but its breadth is not considerable, not any where
exceeding ten leagues. It is a country full of hills and valleys; of
various extent both for height and depth. To judge of the whole by the
parts we were on, from these hills spring vast numbers of little rivulets,
which greatly contribute to fertilize the plains, and to supply all the
wants of the inhabitants. The summits of most of the hills seem to be
barren; though some few are cloathed with wood; as are all the plains and
valleys. By reason of these hills, many parts of the coast, when at a
distance from it, appeared indented, or to have great inlets between the
hills; but, when we came near the shore, we always found such places shut
up with low land, and also observed low land to lie along the coast between
the seashore and the foot of the hills. As this was the case in all such
parts as we came near enough to see, it is reasonable to suppose that the
whole coast is so. I am likewise of opinion, that the whole, or greatest
part, is surrounded by reefs or shoals, which render the access to it very
dangerous, but at the same time guard the coast from the violence of the
wind and sea; make it abound with fish, secure an easy and safe navigation
along it, for canoes, etc.; and, most likely, form some good harbours for
shipping. Most, if not every part of the coast, is inhabited, the Isle of
Pines not excepted; for we saw either smoke by day, or fires by night,
wherever we came. In the extent which I have given to this island, is
included the broken or unconnected lands to the N.W. That they may be
connected; I shall not pretend to deny; we were, however, of opinion that
they were isles, and that New Caledonia terminated more to S.E.; though
this at most is but a well-founded conjecture.
But whether these lands be separate isles, or connected with New Caledonia,
it is by no means certain that we saw their termination to the west. I
think we did not; as the shoals did not end with the land we saw, but kept
their N.W. direction farther than Bougainville's track in the latitude of
15° or 15° 1/2. Nay, it seems not improbable, that a chain of isles,
sand-banks, and reefs, may extend to the west, as far as the coast of New
South Wales. The eastern extent of the isles and shoals off that coast,
between the latitude of 15° and 23', were not known. The resemblance of the
two countries; *Bougainville's meeting with the shoal of Diana above sixty
leagues from the coast; and the signs he had of land to the S.E.; all tend
to increase the probability. I must confess that it is carrying probability
and conjecture a little too far, to say what may lie in a space of two
hundred leagues; but it is in some measure necessary, were it only to put
some future navigator on his guard.
[See his Voyage, English translation p.303.]
Mr Wales determined the longitude of that part of New Caledonia we
explored, by ninety-six sets of observations, which were reduced to one
another by our trusty guide the watch. I found the variation of the compass
to be 10° 24' E. This is the mean variation given by the three azimuth
compasses we had on board, which would differ from each other a degree and
a half, and sometimes more. I did not observe any difference in the
variation between the N.W. and S.E. parts of this land, except when we were
at anchor before Balade, where it was less than 10°; but this I did not
regard, as I found such an uniformity out at sea; and it is there where
navigators want to know the variation. While we were on the N.E. coast, I
thought the currents set to S.E. and W. or N.W. on the other side; but they
are by no means considerable, and may, as probably, be channels of tides,
as regular currents. In the narrow channels which divide the shoals, and
those which communicate with the sea, the tides run strong; but their rise
and fall are inconsiderable, not exceeding three feet and a half. The time
of high-water, at the full and change, at Balade, is about six o'clock; but
at Botany Isle we judged it would happen about ten or eleven o'clock.