We rested at noon under an enormous acacia, of the younger branches of
which the elephants are apparently very fond. We saw that they were
everywhere twisted off to the height of about twenty-five feet, which is
as far as an elephant can reach.
Here and there, under the trees, were conical hills twenty feet high,
built up for residences by the white ants. Frequently they were covered
with creeping plants which met at the top, hanging back in an umbrella
shape, completely shading them. I shot several doves and other birds to
serve us for dinner, and while Jan was cooking them I went in search of
fruit, and discovered an abundance of medlars very similar to those we
have in England, as well as some small purple figs growing on bushes.
The most curious fruit I met with was like a lime in appearance, with a
thick rind, but inside was a large nut. I had to climb a tree to obtain
them, for all those lower down had been carried off by elephants who
were evidently very fond of the fruit.
As our object was to make as much haste as possible, I was resolved not
to go out of the way to shoot any large game, though I kept my rifle
loaded with ball as a defence against lions, leopards, rhinoceroses, or
hyaenas.
The first day's journey we saw several in the distance, though none came
near us. We formed our camp at the foot of a tree, with a large fire in
front of us, and on either side of the trunk we erected a fence of stout
stakes in a semi-circular form; so we hoped that we should be able to
sleep without being molested by wild beasts. The ox remained outside,
and we knew that he would run to the fire, should danger threaten him.
The usual cries proceeding from an African forest prevented us from
sleeping over soundly, and I was awakened by the roar of a lion, which
stood on a mound some little distance from our camp, afraid of
approaching near our fire, and the palisade which he probably took for a
trap.
We had exhausted our stock of wood during the night, and in the morning
Jan went out to procure a fresh supply for cooking our breakfast. I was
employed in plucking some birds which I had killed in the evening, when
I heard my companion shouting lustily for help, and at the same time, a
loud crashing of boughs reached my ears, while the ox came hurrying up
to the camp in evident alarm.
Seizing my rifle, I sprang up, fearing that a lion had pounced down upon
Jan, while picking up sticks, and I was fully prepared for an encounter
with the savage brute. Instead of a lion, however, I saw an elephant,
with trunk uplifted, rush out from among the brushwood. I sprang behind
a tree, as the only place of safety, when what was my dismay, to see, as
he passed, Jan clinging to his hind leg. How the black had got there
was the puzzle, and how to rescue him from his awkward position was the
next question to be solved. Should he let go, he might naturally expect
to receive a kick from the elephant's hind foot which would effectually
knock all the breath out of his body; and yet, should he not get free,
he might be carried miles away and perish miserably. My only hope was
at once to mortally wound the elephant. Not a moment was to be lost if
I was to save poor Jan. Just then the elephant caught sight of the ox,
and stopped as if considering if he should attack it. Whether he was
aware that Jan was clinging to his leg or not, I could not tell, as the
black's weight no more impeded him than a fly would a man when running.
The ox, instead of endeavouring to escape, presented its head to the
elephant, though it trembled in every limb.
Jan, who seemed paralysed with fear, did not let go as I thought he
would have done, and his best chance would have been to spring back,
even though he had fallen on the ground directly behind the elephant. I
did not like to shout to him for fear of attracting the creature's
attention.
Now or never was my time to save the poor fellow. I stepped from under
cover of the tree, and, levelling my rifle, aimed at a spot directly
behind the ear.
The huge monster did not move, then presently it began swaying to and
fro. I shouted to Jan to leap off and hurried on to help him. Before I
reached the spot, he had followed my advice, and hardly had he done so,
than down came the elephant with a crash, to the ground. Jan raised a
shout of triumph.
"De master hab done well!" he cried out. I could not help joining him,
and even the ox gave a bellow of satisfaction as he saw his huge foe
stretched lifeless on the ground.
We at once set to work to extract the tusks with our axes. Rather than
leave them, we agreed to take them with us. We therefore placed them on
the back of our ox, together with some slices of elephant meat which
would prevent the necessity of shooting game during the day.
We now pushed forward for the cave where we had left our goods, and met
with no adventures worth noticing. We saw numerous herds of antelopes,
giraffes, and a few ostriches. The latter I would have killed if I
could, for the sake of their valuable feathers. The cave had been
untouched, and it was with no small satisfaction that I loaded up the ox
with its contents, as we prepared to set off the next morning on our
return, intending, on our way back, to obtain the elephant's tusks we
had deposited in the tree, which had afforded me such seasonable shelter
when attacked by their owner.
We met as before buffaloes, elands, koodoos, and various antelopes. As
I was walking along ahead, suddenly I found my face enveloped as if by a
thick veil; and as I was tearing off the web--for such it was--I caught
sight of a large yellow spider, hauling himself up to the tree above.
In the neighbourhood were many other webs, the fibres radiating from a
centre point where the greedy insect was waiting for its prey.
Each web was about a yard in diameter, and the lines on which they were
hung, suspended from one tree to another, were as thick as coarse
thread. We occasionally met with serpents, but they generally kept out
of our way.
One day, during a halt, while seated under a tree, I caught sight of
another enormous spider of a reddish tinge. Never did I see a creature
so active. It suddenly made its appearance from a hole in the bark, and
giving a tremendous bound, caught a large moth which it quickly
devoured. With wonderful rapidity it ran about the tree, now darting
forward, now springing back. With a feeling of horror lest it should
spring upon me, I removed to a distance. On looking down on the ground,
I saw what I at first thought was a coin the size of a shilling; but on
looking closer I discovered that it was of a pure white silky substance
like paper, and that it formed the door to a hole. On trying to lift it
up I discovered that it was fastened by a hinge on one side, and on
turning it over upon the hole it fitted exactly--the upper side being
covered with earth and grass, so that, had it not been for the
circumstance that the inmate had been out, I could not possibly have
detected it. Jan said it was the hole of a spider, probably the
creature I had seen engaged in seeking its prey.
While encamped that night, I heard the crashing of heads and horns. Jan
told me it was caused by a troop of buffaloes who were fighting.
Presently a loud snorting and puffing reached our ears. The uproar
increased, and he declared that the noise was produced by rhinoceroses
and buffaloes quarrelling. My fear was that in their heady fight the
animals might come our way and trample over us, or perhaps the
rhinoceroses would attack our poor ox, who was but ill able to defend
himself.
While I was looking out beyond our camp-fire I caught sight of a herd of
elephants, the huge males going first, followed by the females, on their
way down to a large pool where they were going to drink. I followed
them cautiously until they entered the water.
Having satisfied their thirst, they began throwing it over themselves
and disporting in the cool element, gambolling and rolling about like a
party of schoolboys bathing. As I could not have carried away their
tusks, I did not attempt to shoot one but left them unmolested. After a
while I saw them returning by the way they had come, appearing in the
uncertain light like huge phantoms so noiselessly did they stalk over
the ground.
It is strange that, huge as the elephant is, from the soft padding of
its feet, the sound of its steps is not heard even on hard ground. Its
approach is only to be discovered by the snapping of boughs and twigs as
it makes its way among the brushwood.
We were but a short distance from the spot where we had left the
elephant's tusks, one of the objects of our expedition. I felt very
sure of the place, as the adventure we had there met with had marked it
in my memory.
I was going up to the tree followed by Jan, when I saw an object moving
among the branches. This made me approach cautiously, and fortunately I
did so, for on looking up, I caught sight of an enormous leopard, which
probably had been attracted by the smell of the flesh still adhering to
the roots of the tusks. As the creature had got possession of the tree,
I had first to dislodge him before I could obtain our tusks; that they
were still there I discovered by seeing their points sticking out beyond
the forks of the boughs where we had deposited them. I knew the
leopard's habit of leaping down on passing animals, and thought it might
attempt to catch me in the same manner. I therefore stood at a
distance, but though I shouted at the top of my voice, and threw pieces
of wood at it, it held its post, snarling and growling savagely.
"Better shoot him, or he come down when no tinkee," cried Jan, who had
remained with the ox at a safe distance.
As we were in a hurry to move on, I saw that the sooner I did this the
better, but it was important to shoot it dead, for should I miss or only
wound it, it might make its leap before I had reloaded, and attack me
and Jan.
I advanced, and taking good aim, pulled the trigger, but what was my
dismay to find my gun miss fire, while at the same moment the leopard
made a spring from a high bough on which it was perched. I expected the
next instant to feel its fangs in my neck, and be struck to the ground
by its sharp claws; but happily its feet caught in some of the creeping
vines which were entwined round the tree, and it very nearly came
toppling to the ground on its head. Recovering itself, however, it
pitched on a lower bough.
I, in the meantime, endeavouring to be calm, cleaned out the nipple of
my gun, and put a fresh cap on; then retiring a few paces while the
creature gazed down upon me, about to make another spring, I fired at
its head, into which the bullet buried itself, and down it crashed to
the ground.
I leaped back, and reloading, stood ready to give it another shot, but
this was unnecessary; after a few convulsive struggles, it lay helpless
on the ground. On drawing near I found that it was dead. The skin
being a handsome one, I determined to secure it. With Jan's assistance,
I soon had it off and placed on the back of the ox. I now ascended the
tree, and found that though the ends of the tusks were gnawed, they were
not otherwise injured.
With the aid of Jan I lowered them down, and secured them to the back of
the ox. The poor brute was now overloaded, but as we had not far to go,
I hoped that it would be able to carry its burden that short distance.
Had I been strong I would have endeavoured to carry some of the load,
but I found my gun and ammunition, with the birds I occasionally shot,
quite enough for me. At length, greatly to my satisfaction, we drew
near the spot where I had left my uncle on some high ground overlooking
the river. Every moment I thought that our poor ox would give in.
We might, I suspect, have been indicted by the Society for the
Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, had we been seen urging on the ox, but
we had no choice, for had we abandoned our goods, the natives would have
taken possession of them. At last, as evening was approaching, we
caught sight of my uncle's camp-fire. We shouted, as he did in return,
when he came hurrying down the hill to meet us.
"What poor brute have you got there?" he exclaimed, after welcoming us.
When I told him it was our old ox, he would scarcely believe it to be
the same animal. Hardly was the burden off its back, and Jan was about
to lead it down to the water, than the poor creature, giving a
convulsive shudder, fell to the ground, and in a few minutes was dead,
having faithfully performed its duty to the last. I felt more sad than
I could have supposed it possible, as I assisted my uncle and Jan in
drawing away the carcase from the camp. We had not dragged it far,
before some natives arrived, who relieved us of all further trouble,
saying that they would take it to their camp, and eat it in spite of its
having died from the effects of the tsetse poison, which we warned them
was the case.
My uncle told me that he had prepared a raft, which would convey us and
our goods down the river to where Mr Welbourn's camp was situated, and
that he had engaged a couple of canoes and a party of natives to
accompany us. Instead of the howling of wild beasts, we were serenaded
during the night by the shouts of laughter and songs of the blacks
feasting on the carcase of the poor ox. It was quite as well, however,
that it should be eaten by them, as by jackals, which would have been
its fate had it died in the wilderness.
Next morning, assisted by the blacks, we carried our goods down to the
river, where we found a curious raft constructed of reeds. It appeared
to me loosely thrown together, somewhat like the top of a floating
haystack. My uncle said that the natives had formed it by throwing on
the calm water a number of reeds, which were interlaced together. Then
others were added, until the lower sank by the weight of those pressed
upon them, it being built up until it rose to a sufficient height above
the surface to bear as many men and as much cargo as it was required to
carry. In the centre was stuck a mast to which a sail made of skins,
was twisted, while a long oar projecting astern served to guide it.
Notwithstanding the assurances of the natives that it was fit to perform
a long voyage, I was glad of the attendance of the canoes.
All things being ready, amid the shouts of the people on shore, we
shoved off, and, being towed cut into the stream by the canoes, set
sail. Considering the clumsy nature of our raft, we glided on with
great rapidity, the canoemen having to paddle pretty hard to keep up
with us.
It was pleasant to be reclining at our ease, and to be borne along
without having to exert ourselves. The voyage, however, was not without
its dangers. Now and then a huge hippopotamus would show its ugly head
alongside, threatening to overturn our frail craft, which it might
easily have done with one heave of its back. Occasionally, too,
crocodiles would swim by, looking up at us with their savage eyes,
showing us how we should be treated should we by any chance be sent
splashing into the water. About mid-day we steered for the shore where
our black crew intimated that they intended to dine.
The raft was secured by a rope round the mast and carried to the trunk
of a tree. We, however, were unwilling to leave our goods on board
without a guard, and therefore determined to remain where we were and to
eat a cold meal; the materials for which we had brought with us. The
water appearing bright and tempting, I was about to plunge overboard,
when I felt the raft give a heave. Directly afterwards, a huge
crocodile poked his ugly snout above the surface, warning me that I had
better remain where I was. Two or three others made their appearance
soon afterwards in the neighbourhood. My uncle and I agreed that the
sooner we were away from the spot the better, as any of the savage
brutes coming under the raft might upset it, and we should be committed
to their tender mercies.
We were very glad, therefore, when the blacks, having finished their
meal, returned on board, and we once more began to float down the
stream.
We were in hopes that at the rate we were proceeding we should meet our
friends before the close of the day, but darkness approached, and the
blacks gave us to understand that we must go on shore and spend the
night at a village of their tribe, where we should be hospitably
entertained. To this we could offer no objection, though it involved
the necessity of landing our goods, as we had no fancy to spend the time
on the raft, with the prospect of finding it melting away below our
feet, and we ourselves left to be devoured by the crocodiles, or
perhaps, to have it capsized by the heave of an hippopotamus beneath it.
As we glided on, we saw a collection of bee-hive looking huts on the top
of the south bank. The raft was directed towards them. The natives,
leaping on shore, secured it as before by a rope to a tree growing on
the beach. They then assisted in carrying our property to the shore.
Having piled it up in a heap and covered it over with a roof of leaves,
they assured us that it would be as safe as if guarded by a hundred men.
As they had hitherto shown themselves to be scrupulously honest, we had
no reason to doubt them on this occasion; and we, therefore, willingly
accompanied them to the village, whence a number of people issued forth
to greet us. They then conducted us to a newly built hut, the inside of
which was as clean as we could desire, the floor covered with freshly
made mats. There we could more securely rest than we had been able to
do for a long time. We were, however, not yet allowed to enter it; a
feast was preparing at which it was expected we should be present, after
which there was to be a dance for our entertainment. For the feast a
fat ox had been killed, part being roasted and part stewed. Some of
both was placed before us, together with huge bowls of porridge, which
our entertainers mixed with their fingers, and transferred by the same
means to their mouths in large quantities. They looked somewhat
surprised when we hesitated to follow their example, but considering
that it would show mistrust, we at last overcame our repugnance. The
porridge itself was certainly not bad, and our hosts laughed heartily as
they saw how we burnt our fingers and made wry faces. The whole was
washed down with huge draughts of pombe, a sort of beer, with slightly
intoxicating properties. We did not inquire too minutely as to how it
was made. The feast over, we heard an extraordinary uproar proceeding
from another part of the village, a sound between the barking of dogs
and people endeavouring to clear their throats. On going in the
direction whence the strange sounds came, we found several men with
spears in their hands and anklets of shells fastened round their legs,
bending over a small fire, and producing the melancholy noises which had
attracted our attention. Others danced round them rattling their
anklets, while a party of women forming an outer semicircle sang a
monotonous chant and clapped their hands. The old men and women, the
senior inhabitants of the village, whom we were invited to join, sat on
the opposite side, spectators of the performance. In the meantime the
young men and boys were prancing about, now advancing to the girls
beating the ground, rattling their anklets, and creating an enormous
quantity of dust.
These proceedings had gone on for some time, when a gay youth, evidently
the leader among them, snatching a brand from the fire after dancing up
to the girls, stuck it in the ground, when he began to leap round and
over it, for a considerable time, taking care not to touch it.
After these various scenes had been enacted, a number of young men,
representing a war party returning victorious from battle, made their
appearance, and brandishing their broad-headed spears, ornamented with
flowing ox-tails. Now they rushed off, as if to pursue an enemy; now
returned, and were welcomed by a chorus from the women.
The scene was highly effective; the glare of the fire being reflected on
the red helmet-like gear and glittering ornaments of the girls, on the
flashing blades and waving ox-tails on the warriors, and the figures of
the spectators, with the huts and groups of cattle in the distance,
while the howling, chanting, shrieking, and barking sounds were kept up
without intermission. We, at last, making signs to the chief that we
were very weary, placing our heads on our hands and closing our eyes,
were led ceremoniously to our hut, into which we were thankful to enter.
Having closed the entrance we lay down and tried to go to sleep. The
noises which reached our ears showed us, however, that the dance was
being kept up with unabated spirit, and I suspect that our hosts formed
but a mean opinion of our tastes in consequence of our disappearing from
the festive scene.
Next morning, having bestowed a few remaining trinkets to delight the
hearts of the black damsels, we wished our hospitable entertainers
farewell and continued our voyage, not an article of our property having
been purloined.
Our raft clung together far better than I should have supposed, but I
suspect, had it struck a rocky bottom, the case would have been very
different. We passed by herds of hippopotami, some with young ones on
their backs, and although they sank as we approached, they soon came to
the surface to breathe. On the trees overhead were numbers of iguanas,
which, on seeing us, splashed into the water. The chief canoeman
carried a light javelin, with which he speared a couple, the flesh
proving to be tender and gelatinous.
Numerous large crocodiles, as we appeared, plunged heavily into the
stream, indeed there was everywhere an abundance of animal life. Had we
not been anxious to join our friends, we should have been contented to
continue the voyage for several days longer.
Another evening was approaching when we espied beneath a huge tree what
looked like a tent and a couple of waggons near it. We fired off our
guns as a signal, and in a short time we saw two white men coming
towards us. We quickly landed in one of the canoes, and were soon
shaking hands with Mr Welbourn and his son Harry.