When will the need for this help end? Not until peace comes and the

reconcentrados can go back to their country, rebuild their homes,

reclaim their tillage plots, which quickly run up to brush in that

wonderful soil and clime, and until they can be free from danger of

molestation in so doing.

Until then the American people must in the main care for them. It is

true that the alcaldes, other authorities and relief committees are

now trying to do something, and desire, I believe, to do the best

they can. But the problem is beyond their means and capacity and the

work is one to which they are not accustomed.

General Blanco's order of November 13 last somewhat modifies the

Weyler order, but it is of little or no practical benefit. Its

application is limited to farms "properly defended," and the owners

are obliged to build "centres of defense."

[Illustration: STREET IN CAVITE SHOWING GENERAL AGUINALDO'S

HEADQUARTERS.]

ARTEMISA.

Whilst these various provisions and improvements in and around Havana,

in the little orphanage and Los Fosos were going on, food was going out

from the great warehouse upon requisition, to thirty or forty towns and

villages in number, which no one had yet had the time to visit; and

their first distribution must be made on trust. From many sources we had

heard of the needs of Artemisa, several miles to the east by rail. As

usual, there was but one train daily from Havana, and that, like the

road we had traveled to Jaruco and Matanzas on the west, left at six

o'clock in the morning, and also meant rising at half-past four, a

carriage ride of three-quarters of an hour in the dark. Our party again

formed, including Mr. Elwell, Drs. Hubbell and Egan, Senator Proctor,

Colonel Parker and a few other attendants. The day was clear and fine,

affording an excellent opportunity to observe the condition of the

country as we passed through. There was entire lack of cultivation; the

tall palm threw its stately shadow over miles of desolated, rolling and

meadow land; no people in sight save in the little thatched hovels; no

cattle, no tools, the rank, wild grass swarding the soil where the

richest of crops belong; and we bringing food grown on the sterile

fields of North America, among the gravel and rocks, with a quarter of

the year under snow, nearly one-half under frost, to a country like

this, where the verdure is perpetual and three crops possible, where the

rain and the sun never fail, where land is abundant and yet where

millions of hands want acres and millions of acres want hands. Heavenly

Father, what is the matter with this beautiful earth that Thou hast

made! "And, what is man that Thou art mindful of him!"

Eight o'clock in the bright morning sunshine found us at Artemisa. A

brief examination by carriage served to show us where its defences had

once been, now practically abandoned and the field of military activity

drawn to other points.

We found here a most practical mayor, with two thousand to three

thousand people about him almost entirely without food. Since November

24, until some three months ago, the Spanish government had issued small

rations to these people, but these grew less and less, and finally

stopped altogether. This small help from the government had saved the

people thus far, but they were now beginning to be dangerously hungry.

What gladness it was to feel that our provisions would fall in just in

time to save, we hoped, the greater portion of those remaining.

The district of Artemisa had originally 10,000, and the town 2000

inhabitants. Into this small number 10,000 reconcentrados had been sent.

Three thousand of these had died; some had strayed away to other places

in the hope of more food and fewer persons to eat it; 5000 still

remained. In August 770 persons died--now the death rate is 5 to 6

persons per day, or about 175 per month. We found only one hospital and

this for smallpox, far out in the fields, with forty patients. There

were three physicians who would be more than glad to make up a

hospital--if there were anything to provide it with--attend to it

personally, and find women who would care for the sick, as nurses. They

were directed to do this at once, and suitable hospital food would be

sent to them as soon as their hospital was reported ready for it. They

were also directed to gather all the sick in the outlying hovels and

bring them into hospitals. One of our physicians would go directly with

the food and assist in the establishment of the institution. We remained

over night; the distribution of food which had been sent them took place

at seven the next morning. Their system of tickets was excellent; a

better system of relief we had not seen. The mayor himself would visit

every family and the physicians the same, until the sick would be all in

hospitals. It was a welcome sight at eight o'clock that morning, when

the crowd of waiting thousands stood around the mayor, to see the tight

hand grasp on the bag of rations, like a godsend from heaven when hope

was lost. The mayor had a thousand acres of land lying within the

military lines of fortifications, which he offered free for the use of

the people, if they could get permission, and if the people could help

to cultivate it. In three months, he said, under their own cultivation

it would feed them all.

Our work at Artemisa closed at noon and we returned to Havana.

SAGUA LA GRANDE.

Referring again to the diary I find the following record:

Sagua la Grande and Cienfuegos yet remain within our limits to be

reached at once. We have not a day to lose, and again leave at six

o'clock for Sagua la Grande. This means the usual morning ride in

the dark, the ferry and the beautiful opening of the day speeding on

through a strange land of waste and desolation. Our same company

assembled, and as we neared Sagua we were met by our friend, Consul

Barker, and later on the mayor, Senor Machado. Carriages were taken

and inspection made of the reconcentrados, their condition and

needs, the land, etc. While there is evidently great want here,

there is still an atmosphere of care and effort on the part of the

best people and the officials which fills one with an earnest desire

to help them on. The best place possible for the poor had been

provided by the mayor, and as he passed among them, pointing out to

us especial cases and conditions, their eyes followed him with a

look of grateful devotion. While sympathizing with all, his deepest

care seemed to be for the young girls; to find some occupation for

them, and some protection. The plan most feasible to him was the

starting of a cigarette factory where the hundreds might be

employed, with suitable time for instruction, earn their living, and

be kept out of danger. I am glad to know that he is partially

succeeding in this, and also that he had, and I think still has, the

earnest co-operation of our good consul at Sagua, Mr. Barker.

The day had been very fully occupied, and we must remain until

morning to witness the operation of the kitchens established by the

consul and the mayor, where the poor are fed with well-cooked rice,

beans and such vegetables as can be obtained.

These people are desperately poor, and need all the help that can be

given them, and yet they are not in the condition of the people of

Matanzas. Their doctors are caring for the sick, and the ladies of

the town giving every assistance in their power. The mayor again

reverts to his great interest in the young girls; "Here is the

greatest danger of all. Can you not help me out with this?" His

earnestness made such an impression upon me that I finally asked if

he had young daughters of his own. He hesitated a moment, and then

with a look of confidence, as if he were about to entrust a secret

to me, he replied: "We have an adopted daughter, who is very, very

dear to us. She is the sister of Miss Cisneros, but does not know

it, and we have not the courage to tell her. She is some fourteen or

fifteen years of age, has read everything regarding Miss Cisneros,

and admires her intensely, but never mistrusts the relationship."

"Will you not tell her?" I asked. "Oh yes; some day," he replied,

"and it must be before long; but the relationships are so sweet that

my wife and I both dread to break them. Of course, some day we must

tell her, but we put it off as long as we can." He then explained

that the father had been an active patriot and fell under political

censure; in his imprisonment the family was broken up, and this

little girl, then a mere babe, had been adopted by the mayor and his

wife, who were intimate friends of the family. I hope I have not

betrayed a trust; but there was a little touch of romance in

this--something so sweet and paternal in the relationship--and

something altogether so interesting in the thought of this bright

young girl reading and admiring the courage and successful exploits

of her own sister, without ever dreaming that it was anything to

her--it seems really too good a point to keep dark. I trust that the

good mayor, if he ever learns that I have betrayed his trust, will

forgive me.

CIENFUEGOS.

Although a rather early train on the next day would take us to

Cienfuegos, the visit to the kitchens with their great, steaming

cauldrons of food must not be passed by. Although it was simply beans,

rice, such other dry vegetables as could be obtained, and the little

meat or lard that came with the ration, slowly and thoroughly cooked, it

was still a food that any good appetite could appreciate--wholesome,

clean and as abundant as the circumstances would permit. It was a

pleasure to see the children and the mothers come up with the little

pails and buckets and receive the one large ladle of food, steaming hot

from the cauldron, and bear it cheerfully away for the coming meal.

There was a degree of order and systematic thought in this rarely met

under occasions so grave. It will remain ever a happy memory with Consul

Barker and the good mayor of Sagua, that under their wise direction this

system was instituted and carried out. The courtesies of the railroad

were cheerfully extended to us, and without incident worth relating the

night found us at Cienfuegos. The country round about Cienfuegos is

favorable to cultivation; the troubles there had been of a less grave

nature, consequently the suffering has been less. Judging from the

report of the consul, there had been very little; but to our stranger

eyes, upon personal observation, there were traces of something not

compatible with thrift, prosperity and happiness. We were sure that some

help might be comfortably given there, and made our preparations

accordingly. This also was a visit of investigation, and being Tuesday,

the next day's boat from Havana to the States must take our good friends

from us, and an early start, over a long, jolting road, took us from

Cienfuegos back to Havana.

BACK TO HAVANA.

Our journey through the three or four districts had shown us the worst

of human suffering, the greatest of desolation, and a degree of

discouragement as hard perhaps to rally the people from as the absolute

physical conditions under which they existed. We had arranged for food

for all. The ships with their various consignments were already on the

way, the "Fern" to Matanzas, a shipment from the Philadelphia Red Cross

on the "Bergen," also bound for Matanzas, from both of which supplies

could go forward to Artemisa and Sagua, for the railroads were generous

in giving free transportation; and we were informed that a shipment was

also en route for Cienfuegos. Remembering our own generous shipment of

food to Matanzas of the third instant, we felt that we might give the

time of a day or two to the institutions we were founding and supporting

in Havana. The little hospital was growing finely, increasing in

numbers, and the numbers increasing in strength. The frail, pale

creatures were commencing to sit up in bed and hold the playthings that

generous friends had brought them by the basketful; some even walked

about and tried to play. Their heavenly godmother, "Sister Bettina," was

providing everything for their comfort, also for their nurses and the

little household that made up a pattern hospital. Dr. Lesser had

established a clinic on the grounds, and under the shade of the great,

beautiful garden trees the poor invalids of the town assembled by the

hundred each afternoon with the various maladies that misfortune,

poverty and neglect had brought them. The gratitude which their strange

tongues spoke in evident blessing upon him who had thought to come to

their relief, and the great brown eyes that followed him as he turned

quickly and gently from one to another, were pictures not to be

forgotten.

Los Fosos, on the other hand, was fast losing its terrors. A regular

distribution of American food had gone into it, and even rooms were

partitioned off for a dispensary, fairly well provided with medicines,

and another for clothing and bedding fast filling up from our warehouse

were all in grateful operation. All had beds, the floors and stairs were

strengthened, and the food went regularly through twice a day among all

the waiting inmates. M. Sr. J. Palacios y Airoso, the Consul of Bolivia,

and a member of our committee, had volunteered to take personal charge,

and his fine, manly form seen day by day among these poor, suffering

creatures, watching and providing their wants, was like a benediction

from heaven. And Sister Bettina, with her band of faithful nurses, soon

carried strong traces of order and cleanliness where it had once seemed

impossible.

The morning that saw our first welcome party of American visitors,

Senator Proctor and friends, leave us, brought another party still

larger, among whom were Senator and dear Mrs. Thurston, Senator Money

and nieces, Senator Gallinger, Mr. Cummings, Mr. Smith, and others. It

was not only comforting, but hopeful, to see such interest manifested in

these dreadful conditions by the highest prestige in our country and

those who had it in their power to make these conditions better. We

welcomed them with an earnestness they could scarcely comprehend.

There was in all these surroundings a feeling akin to horror, an

isolation from the world it seemed, and it is not difficult to

understand the welcome we gave in our hearts to those who came to us.

Our new guests visited Havana, its institutions, the little orphanage,

and the Los Fosos of that day--a terror to them, but a comfort to us, as

we saw it daily growing better and better.

Matanzas must of course be visited, and another early morning train

found our large party en route for that city and the sights that had so

distressed us ten days before. Although realizing how terrible the state

of things must seem to our party of American visitors, we still rejoiced

during the entire journey that they were not to see those hospitals in

the condition in which we had first found them. Our supplies, so

promptly and generously sent, we were sure had dulled the keen edge of

hunger, and could not fail to show an improvement there. Our guests,

then, would not see all the terrors of unfed famine that had so shocked

us, and we knew that by that time the ships from the North must have

arrived. The breakfast at the hotel and a second visit to our hospitable

governor brought with them no apprehension of what was to meet us a

little later. We drove to the hospitals, to learn that no food had been

distributed or received. Those whom we had seen dying there on our first

visit were gone; others had taken their places, and it was only a

repetition of the first visit, with the addition of ten days more of

hunger. Astonished and shocked beyond description, we drove at once to

the railway station, to find in its freight house our four tons of

provisions sent from Havana ten days before. Although every notice had

been given by us that the goods would be sent--again that they were

sent--and the authorities asked to look out for them, our consul

appeared to have no intimation that they were there. The hospital

authorities, of course, had none, and it only remained for us to order

out the provisions and get something to the patients as quickly as

possible, leaving Dr. Hubbell to see that at last they had a supper.

It is not strange that from this event went out the cry of "starving

Matanzas," although at that moment, in addition to our four tons of

goods previously sent, the "Fern" lay in the harbor under the American

flag, with fifty tons of American supplies, and fifty rods away lay the

"Bergen," under the same colors, bearing a cargo of fifty-two tons from

the Philadelphia Red Cross, faithfully sent through the New York

Committee, by request. So uncontrollable a thing is human excitement

that these facts could not be taken in, and the charities of our whole

country were called afresh to arms over "starving Matanzas," which was

at that moment by far the best provided city in Cuba. The result of this

was an entire train of supplies from Kansas, which, remaining there

after the blockade, not being consigned to the Red Cross, was, we were

informed, distributed among the Spanish soldiery by the Spanish

officials. Goods bearing the mark of the Red Cross were everywhere

respected, and we have no record of any of _our_ goods having been

appropriated by the Spanish authorities.

The third member of the Cuban Relief Committee of New York, Mr. Louis

Klopsch, having arrived, it was perhaps natural and proper that the work

of relief and distribution under the consul-general should pass to his

direction. Accordingly, by request of Mr. Klopsch, no more visits were

made to other cities, and by his direction Mr. Elwell gave his entire

attention to the warehouse, and I continued the very hopeful

negotiations I had commenced with the Spanish authorities for the

privilege of unmolested cultivation by the reconcentrados of the broad

glades of land lying within the trochas. In some instances, as around

Sagua, hundreds of acres lay thus unoccupied by either Cubans or

Spanish, and only the fear of the Spanish soldiery from their own side

of the trochas prevented the cultivation of this land by the

reconcentrados gathered in the towns. In some long and earnest

interviews with General Blanco I laid this matter before him, and begged

his interference and commands on behalf of the safety of the poor people

who might desire to cultivate this land. The captain-general said they

had the matter already under consideration, and desired me to meet his

board of education, who would be glad to co-operate. I met this body of

gentlemen--middle-aged, thoughtful, intelligent men. They had already

taken some important steps, but were perplexed on both sides; first by

the Spanish soldiery, liable to attack the workers, likewise the Cuban

guerillas, who were equally as dangerous. And yet, despite all this,

some important steps had really been taken and some little commencement

made. I need not say that the exciting news which followed in less than

a month put to an end all thoughts of steps in that direction. A new

enemy would appear and the ground was likely to be plowed by shells from

the monster ships that would line the bay.

I met the Spanish authorities, not merely as a bearer of relief, but as

the president of the American National Red Cross, with all the

principles of neutrality which that implied, and received in return the

unfailing courtesy which the conditions demanded. From our first

interview to the last sad day when we decided that it was better to

withdraw, giving up all efforts at relief, and leave those thousands of

poor, dying wretches to their fate, there was never any change in the

attitude of the Spanish authorities, General Blanco or his staff, toward

myself or any member of my staff. One of my last visits before the

blockade was to the palace. The same kindly spirit prevailed; I was

begged not to leave the island through fear of them; every protection in

their power would be given, but there was no guarantee for what might

occur in the exigencies of war. I recall an incident of that day:

General Blanco led me to the large salon, the walls of which are covered

with the portraits of the Spanish officials for generations past, and

pointing to the Spanish authorities under date of 1776, said, with a

look of sadness, "When your country was in trouble, Spain was the friend

of America. Now Spain is in trouble, America is her enemy." I knew no

answer for this but silence, and we passed out through the corridor of

guards, he handing me to my carriage with a farewell and a blessing. I

could but recall my experience with the Turkish officials and

government, where I entered with such apprehension and left with such

marks of cordiality.

During this interval of time important business had called me to

Washington, and I only returned to Cuba some time during the second week

of April, when the diary commences with, "strong talk of war."

LEAVING HAVANA.

It is needless to say that the strong talk went on--well or ill, wise or

unwise, welcome or unwelcome--it went on. Evidently the blockade was

near at hand and a declaration of war liable to follow. What should one

do but to ask counsel of all within reach? I have given the result of my

interview with the Spanish authorities; cabling to American authorities

brings the answer, "The consul should know best. Take no chances."

Reference to the consul brings the kindly reply, "I am going myself."

The order was for all American citizens to leave Havana, and the order

was obeyed, but not without having laid the matter formally in counsel

before my staff of assistants and taking their opinion and advice, which

was to the effect that while personally they would prefer to remain for

the chance of the little good that might be accomplished, in view of the

distress which we should give our friends at home, and, in fact, the

whole country, when it should be known that we were inside that wall of

fire that would confront us, with no way of extricating or reaching us,

it seemed both wiser and more humane to leave. And the ninth of April

saw us again on shipboard, a party of twenty, bound for Tampa. We would

not, however, go beyond, but made headquarters there, remaining within

easy call of any need there might be for us. Here follow the few weeks

of impending war. Do we need to live them over? Do we even want to

recall them? Days when the elder men of thought and memory pondered

deeply and questioned much! When the mother, patriot though she were,

uttered her sentiments through choking voice and tender, trembling

words, and the young men, caring nothing, fearing nothing, rushed

gallantly on to doom and to death! To how many households, alas, these

days recall themselves in tones never to be forgotten!

Notwithstanding all this excitement and confusion and all the pressure

that weighed upon him, our good President still remembered the

suffering, dying reconcentrados, and requested that a ship be provided

as quickly as possible loaded from the warerooms of the indefatigable

Cuban Relief Committee in New York, and be sent for the relief of the

sufferers in Cuba whenever they could be reached. One need not say with

what promptness this committee acted, and I was informed that the "State

of Texas" laden with fourteen hundred tons of food would shortly leave

New York en route for Key West, and it was the desire of that committee

and the Government that I take command of the ship, and with my staff

and such assistants as I would select, undertake the getting of that

food to its destination.

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