_Government of Manding. — The Author’s Reception by the Mansa,
or chief Man of Sibidooloo, who takes Measures for the Recovery of his
Horse and Effects. — The Author removes to Wanda; — great Scarcity,
and its afflicting Consequences. — The Author recovers his Horse
and Clothes — presents his Horse to the Mansa; and prosecutes his
Journey to Kamalia — some Account of that Town. — The Author’s
kind Reception by Karfa Taura, a Slatee, who proposes to go to the
Gambia in the next dry Season, with a Caravan of Slaves. — The
Author’s Sickness, and Determination to remain and accompany Karfa._
The town of Sibidooloo is situated in a fertile valley, surrounded with
high rocky hills. It is scarcely accessible for horses, and during
the frequent wars between the Bambarrans, Foulahs, and Mandingoes,
has never once been plundered by an enemy. When I entered the town,
the people gathered round me, and followed me into the baloon;
where I was presented to the Dooty or chief man, who is here called
Mansa, which usually signifies king. Nevertheless, it appeared to me
that the government of Manding was a sort of republic, or rather an
oligarchy; every town having a particular Mansa, and the chief power
of the state, in the last resort, being lodged in the assembly of the
whole body. I related to the Mansa, the circumstances of my having
been robbed of my horse and apparel; and my story was confirmed by
the two shepherds. He continued smoking his pipe all the time I was
speaking; but I had no sooner finished, than taking his pipe from his
mouth, and tossing up the sleeve of his cloak with an indignant air,
“sit down (said he), you shall have every thing restored to you;
I have sworn it:”—and then turning to an attendant, “give the
white man (said he) a draught of water; and with the first light of
the morning, go over the hills, and inform the Dooty of Bammakoo,
that a poor white man, the King of Bambarra’s stranger, has been
robbed by the King of Fooladoo’s people.”
I little expected, in my forlorn condition, to meet with a man who
could thus feel for my sufferings. I heartily thanked the Mansa
for his kindness, and accepted his invitation to remain with him
until the return of the messenger. I was conducted into a hut,
and had some victuals sent me; but the crowd of people which
assembled to see me, all of whom commiserated my misfortunes,
and vented imprecations against the Foulahs, prevented me from
sleeping until past midnight. Two days I remained without hearing
any intelligence of my horse or clothes; and as there was at this
time a great scarcity of provisions, approaching even to famine,
all over this part of the country, I was unwilling to trespass any
farther on the Mansa’s generosity, and begged permission to depart
to the next village. Finding me very anxious to proceed, he told me
that I might go as far as a town called Wonda, where he hoped I would
remain a few days, until I heard some account of my horse, &c.
I departed accordingly on the next morning of the 28th, and stopped at
some small villages for refreshment. I was presented at one of them
with a dish which I had never before seen. It was composed of the
blossoms or _antheræ_ of the maize, stewed in milk and water. It
is eaten only in time of great scarcity. On the 30th, about noon,
I arrived at Wonda; a small town with a mosque, and surrounded by a
high wall. The Mansa, who was a Mahomedan, acted in two capacities;
as chief magistrate of the town, and schoolmaster to the children. He
kept his school in an open shed, where I was desired to take up my
lodging, until some account should arrive from Sibidooloo, concerning
my horse and clothes; for though the horse was of little use to me,
yet the few clothes were essential. The little raiment upon me could
neither protect me from the sun by day, nor the dews and musketoes
by night: indeed, my shirt was not only worn thin, like a piece of
muslin, but withal was so very dirty, that I was happy to embrace an
opportunity of washing it; which having done, and spread it upon a
bush, I sat down naked, in the shade, until it was dry.
Ever since the commencement of the rainy season, my health had been
greatly on the decline. I had often been affected with slight paroxysms
of fever; and from the time of leaving Bammakoo, the symptoms had
considerably increased. As I was sitting in the manner described,
the fever returned with such violence, that it very much alarmed me:
the more so, as I had no medicine to stop its progress, nor any hope
of obtaining that care and attention which my situation required.
I remained at Wonda nine days; during which time I experienced the
regular return of the fever every day. And though I endeavoured
as much as possible to conceal my distress from my landlord, and
frequently lay down the whole day, out of his sight, in a field of
corn; conscious how burthensome I was to him and his family, in a
time of such great scarcity; yet I found that he was apprized of my
situation; and one morning, as I feigned to be asleep by the fire,
he observed to his wife, that they were likely to find me a very
troublesome and chargeable guest; for that, in my present sickly state,
they should be obliged, for the sake of their good name, to maintain
me until I recovered, or died.
The scarcity of provisions was certainly felt at this time most
severely by the poor people, as the following circumstance most
painfully convinced me. Every evening, during my stay, I observed
five or six women come to the Mansa’s house, and receive each
of them a certain quantity of corn. As I knew how valuable this
article was at this juncture, I inquired of the Mansa, whether he
maintained these poor women from pure bounty, or expected a return
when the harvest should be gathered in. “Observe that boy said he,
(pointing to a fine child, about five years of age); “his mother
has sold him to me, for forty days’ provision for herself, and the
rest of her family. I have bought another boy in the same manner.”
Good God, thought I, what must a mother suffer, before she sells her
own child! I could not get this melancholy subject out of my mind,
and the next night, when the women returned for their allowance, I
desired the boy to point out to me his mother, which he did. She was
much emaciated, but had nothing cruel or savage in her countenance;
and when she had received her corn, she came and talked to her son,
with as much cheerfulness as if he had still been under her care.
Sept. 6th. Two people arrived from Sibidooloo, bringing with them my
horse and clothes; but I found that my pocket compass was broken to
pieces. This was a great loss, which I could not repair.
Sept. 7th. As my horse was grazing near the brink of a well, the
ground gave way, and he fell in. The well was about ten feet diameter,
and so very deep, that when I saw my horse snorting in the water,
I thought it was impossible to save him. The inhabitants of the
village, however, immediately assembled, and having tied together
a number of withes,[16] they lowered a man down into the well, who
fastened those withes round the body of the horse; and the people,
having first drawn up the man, took hold of the withes, and to my
surprise pulled the horse out with the greatest facility. The poor
animal was now reduced to a mere skeleton, and the roads were scarcely
passable, being either very rocky, or else full of mud and water;
I therefore found it impracticable to travel with him any farther,
and was happy to leave him in the hands of one who I thought would
take care of him. I accordingly presented him to my landlord; and
desired him to send my saddle and bridle, as a present, to the Mansa
of Sibidooloo; being the only return I could make him, for having
taken so much trouble in procuring my horse and clothes.
I now thought it necessary, sick as I was, to take leave of my
hospitable landlord. On the morning of Sept. 8th, when I was about to
depart, he presented me with his spear, as a token of remembrance,
and a leather bag to contain my clothes. Having converted my half
boots into sandals, I travelled with more ease, and slept that night
at a village called Ballanti. On the 9th, I reached Nemacoo; but the
Mansa of the village thought fit to make me sup upon the camelion’s
dish. By way of apology, however, he assured me the next morning, that
the scarcity of corn was such, that he could not possibly allow me
any. I could not accuse him of unkindness, as all the people actually
appeared to be starving.
Sept. 10th. It rained hard all day, and the people kept themselves
in their huts. In the afternoon, I was visited by a Negro, named Modi
Lemina Taura, a great trader, who, suspecting my distress, brought me
some victuals; and promised to conduct me to his own house at Kinyeto
the day following.
Sept. 11th. I departed from Nemacoo, and arrived at Kinyeto in the
evening; but having hurt my ankle in the way, it swelled and inflamed
so much that I could neither walk, nor set my foot to the ground,
the next day, without great pain. My landlord observing this, kindly
invited me to stop with him a few days; and I accordingly remained
at his house until the 14th; by which time I felt much relieved,
and could walk with the help of a staff. I now set out, thanking my
landlord for his great care and attention; and being accompanied by a
young man, who was travelling the same way, I proceeded for Jerijang,
a beautiful and well cultivated district, the Mansa of which is
reckoned the most powerful chief of any in Manding.
On the 15th, I reached Dosita, a large town, where I stayed one
day on account of the rain; but I continued very sickly, and was
slightly delirious in the night. On the 17th, I set out for Mansia,
a considerable town, where small quantities of gold are collected. The
road led over a high rocky hill, and my strength and spirits were so
much exhausted, that before I could reach the top of the hill, I was
forced to lie down three times, being very faint and sickly. I reached
Mansia in the afternoon. The Mansa of this town had the character of
being very inhospitable; he, however, sent me a little corn for my
supper, but demanded something in return: and when I assured him that
I had nothing of value in my possession, he told me (as if in jest),
that my white skin should not defend me, if I told him lies. He then
shewed me the hut wherein I was to sleep; but took away my spear,
saying that it should be returned to me in the morning. This trifling
circumstance, when joined to the character I had heard of the man,
made me rather suspicious of him; and I privately desired one of the
inhabitants of the place, who had a bow and quiver, to sleep in the
same hut with me. About midnight, I heard somebody approach the door,
and observing the moonlight strike suddenly into the hut, I started up,
and saw a man stepping cautiously over the threshold. I immediately
snatched up the Negro’s bow and quiver, the rattling of which made
the man withdraw: and my companion looking out, assured me that it was
the Mansa himself, and advised me to keep awake until the morning. I
closed the door, and placed a large piece of wood behind it; and was
wondering at this unexpected visit, when somebody pressed so hard
against the door, that the Negro could scarcely keep it shut. But
when I called to him to open the door, the intruder ran off, as before.
Sept. 16th. As soon as it was light, the Negro, at my request, went
to the Mansa’s house and brought away my spear. He told me that the
Mansa was asleep, and lest this inhospitable chief should devise means
to detain me, he advised me to set out before he was awake; which
I immediately did; and about two o’clock reached Kamalia, a small
town, the appearance of which is represented in the annexed Plate,
situated at the bottom of some rocky hills, where the inhabitants
collect gold in considerable quantities. The Bushreens here live
apart from the Kafirs, and have built their huts in a scattered
manner, at a short distance from the town. They have a place set
apart for performing their devotions in, to which they give the name
of _missura_, or mosque; but it is in fact nothing more than a square
piece of ground made level, and surrounded with the trunks of trees,
having a small projection towards the east, where the Marraboo, or
priest, stands, when he calls the people to prayers. Mosques of this
construction are very common among the converted Negroes; but having
neither walls nor roof, they can only be used in fine weather. When
it rains, the Bushreens perform their devotions in their huts.
[Illustration: _J. C. Barrow del. from a sketch by M. Park._
_W. C. Wilson sculpt._
A VIEW of KAMALIA.
_Publish’d Jany. 1.1799. by G. Nicol, Pall Mall._]
On my arrival at Kamalia, I was conducted to the house of a Bushreen
named Karfa Taura, the brother of him to whose hospitality I was
indebted at Kinyeto. He was collecting a coffle of slaves, with a
view to sell them to the Europeans on the Gambia, as soon as the
rains should be over. I found him sitting in his baloon, surrounded
by several Slatees, who proposed to join the coffle. He was reading to
them from an Arabic book; and inquired, with a smile, if I understood
it? Being answered in the negative, he desired one of the Slatees to
fetch the little curious book, which had been brought from the west
country. On opening this small volume, I was surprised, and delighted,
to find it our _Book of Common Prayer_; and Karfa expressed great
joy to hear that I could read it: for some of the Slatees, who had
seen the Europeans upon the Coast, observing the colour of my skin
(which was now become very yellow from sickness), my long beard,
ragged clothes, and extreme poverty; were unwilling to admit that I
was a white man, and told Karfa, that they suspected I was some Arab
in disguise. Karfa, however, perceiving that I could read this book,
had no doubt concerning me; and kindly promised me every assistance
in his power. At the same time he informed me, that it was impossible
to cross the Jallonka wilderness for many months yet to come, as no
less than eight rapid rivers, he said, lay in the way. He added, that
he intended to set out himself for Gambia as soon as the rivers were
fordable, and the grass burnt; and advised me to stay and accompany
him. He remarked, that when a caravan of the natives could not travel
through the country, it was idle for a single white man to attempt
it. I readily admitted that such an attempt was an act of rashness,
but I assured him that I had now no alternative; for having no money
to support myself, I must either beg my subsistence, by travelling
from place to place, or perish for want. Karfa now looked at me with
great earnestness, and inquired if I could eat the common victuals
of the country; assuring me he had never before seen a white man. He
added, that if I would remain with him until the rains were over,
he would give me plenty of victuals in the meantime, and a hut to
sleep in; and that after he had conducted me in safety to the Gambia,
I might then make him what return I thought proper. I asked him,
if the value of one prime slave would satisfy him. He answered in
the affirmative; and immediately ordered one of the huts to be swept
for my accommodation. Thus was I delivered, by the friendly care of
this benevolent Negro, from a situation truly deplorable. Distress
and famine pressed hard upon me; I had, before me, the gloomy wilds
of Jallonkadoo, where the traveller sees no habitation for five
successive days. I had observed at a distance, the rapid course of the
river Kokoro. I had almost marked out the place, where I was doomed,
I thought, to perish, when this friendly Negro stretched out his
hospitable hand for my relief.
In the hut which was appropriated for me, I was provided with a
mat to sleep on, an earthen jar for holding water, and a small
calabash to drink out of; and Karfa sent me from his own dwelling,
two meals a day; and ordered his slaves to supply me with fire-wood
and water. But I found that neither the kindness of Karfa, nor any
sort of accommodation could put a stop to the fever which weakened me,
and which became every day more alarming. I endeavoured as much as
possible to conceal my distress; but on the third day after my arrival,
as I was going with Karfa to visit some of his friends, I found myself
so faint that I could scarcely walk, and before we reached the place,
I staggered, and fell into a pit from which the clay had been taken
to build one of the huts. Karfa endeavoured to console me with the
hopes of a speedy recovery; assuring me, that if I would not walk out
in the wet, I should soon be well. I determined to follow his advice,
and confine myself to my hut; but was still tormented with the fever,
and my health continued to be in a very precarious state, for five
ensuing weeks. Sometimes I could crawl out of the hut, and sit a few
hours in the open air; at other times I was unable to rise, and passed
the lingering hours in a very gloomy and solitary manner. I was seldom
visited by any person except my benevolent landlord, who came daily to
inquire after my health. When the rains became less frequent, and the
country began to grow dry, the fever left me; but in so debilitated a
condition, that I could scarcely stand upright, and it was with great
difficulty that I could carry my mat to the shade of a tamarind tree,
at a short distance, to enjoy the refreshing smell of the corn-fields,
and delight my eyes with a prospect of the country. I had the pleasure,
at length, to find myself in a state of convalescence; towards which,
the benevolent and simple manners of the Negroes, and the perusal of
Karfa’s little volume, greatly contributed.
In the meantime, many of the Slatees who resided at Kamalia, having
spent all their money, and become in a great measure dependent upon
Karfa’s hospitality, beheld me with an eye of envy, and invented many
ridiculous and trifling stories to lessen me in Karfa’s esteem. And
in the beginning of December, a Sera-Woolli Slatee, with five slaves,
arrived from Sego: this man too, spread a number of malicious reports
concerning me; but Karfa paid no attention to them, and continued to
shew me the same kindness as formerly. As I was one day conversing
with the slaves which this Slatee had brought, one of them begged me
to give him some victuals. I told him I was a stranger, and had none to
give. He replied, “I gave _you_ victuals when you was hungry.—Have
you forgot the man who brought you milk at Karrankalla? But (added he,
with a sigh) _the irons were not then upon my legs!_” I immediately
recollected him, and begged some ground-nuts from Karfa to give him,
as a return for his former kindness. He told me that he had been taken
by the Bambarrans, the day after the battle at Joka, and sent to Sego;
where he had been purchased by his present master, who was carrying
him down to Kajaaga. Three more of these slaves were from Kaarta,
and one from Wassela, all of them prisoners of war. They stopped four
days at Kamalia, and were then taken to Bala, where they remained
until the river Kokoro was fordable, and the grass burnt.
In the beginning of December, Karfa proposed to complete his purchase
of slaves; and for this purpose, collected all the debts which were
owing to him in his own country. And on the 19th, being accompanied
by three Slatees, he departed for Kancaba, a large town on the banks
of the Niger; and a great slave-market. Most of the slaves, who are
sold at Kancaba, come from Bambarra; for Mansong, to avoid the expence
and danger of keeping all his prisoners at Sego, commonly sends them
in small parties, to be sold at the different trading towns; and as
Kancaba is much resorted to by merchants, it is always well supplied
with slaves, which are sent thither up the Niger in canoes. When Karfa
departed from Kamalia, he proposed to return in the course of a month;
and during his absence I was left to the care of a good old Bushreen,
who acted as schoolmaster to the young people of Kamalia.
Being now left alone, and at leisure to indulge my own reflections;
it was an opportunity not to be neglected of augmenting and extending
the observations I had already made, on the climate and productions
of the country; and of acquiring a more perfect knowledge of the
natives, than it was possible for me to obtain, in the course of a
transient and perilous journey through the country. I endeavoured
likewise to collect all the information I could, concerning those
important branches of African commerce, the trade for gold, ivory,
and slaves. Such was my employment, during the remainder of my stay
at Kamalia; and I shall now proceed to lay before my readers the
result of my researches and inquiries; avoiding, as far as I can,
a repetition of those circumstances and observations, which were
related, as occasion arose, in the narrative of my journey.
[Footnote 16: From a plant called _kabba_, that climbs like a vine
upon the trees.]