[Illustration: _H. Edrige delt._
_T. Dickinson sculpt._
_Mr. M. Park._
_Publish’d April 5.1799, by G. Nicol, Pall Mall._]
TRAVELS
IN THE
INTERIOR DISTRICTS OF AFRICA:
PERFORMED UNDER THE
DIRECTION AND PATRONAGE
OF THE
AFRICAN ASSOCIATION,
IN THE
YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797.
BY MUNGO PARK, SURGEON.
WITH
AN APPENDIX,
CONTAINING
GEOGRAPHICAL ILLUSTRATIONS OF AFRICA
BY MAJOR RENNELL.
* * * * *
------egens Libyæ deserta peragro. VIRG.
* * * * *
LONDON:
PRINTED BY W. BULMER AND CO. FOR THE AUTHOR;
AND SOLD BY G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY,
PALL-MALL. 1799.
TO THE
NOBLEMEN AND GENTLEMEN,
ASSOCIATED FOR THE PURPOSE OF EXPLORING
THE
INTERIOR REGIONS OF AFRICA,
THIS
JOURNAL OF TRAVELS
ON THAT CONTINENT,
PERFORMED UNDER THEIR PATRONAGE,
IS,
WITH ALL HUMILITY,
INSCRIBED,
BY THEIR FAITHFUL
AND OBLIGED HUMBLE SERVANT,
_April 10th_, 1799. MUNGO PARK.
PREFACE.
* * * * *
The following Journal, drawn up from original minutes and notices
made at the proper moment and preserved with great difficulty, is now
offered to the Public by the direction of my noble and honourable
employers, the Members of the African Association. I regret that
it is so little commensurate to the patronage I have received. As
a composition, it has nothing to recommend it, but _truth_. It is
a plain, unvarnished tale; without pretensions of any kind, except
that it claims to enlarge, in some degree, the circle of African
geography. For this purpose, my services were offered, and accepted
by the Association; and, I trust, I have not laboured altogether in
vain. The work, however, must speak for itself; and I should not
have thought any preliminary observations necessary, if I did not
consider myself called upon, both by justice and gratitude, to offer
those which follow.
Immediately after my return from Africa, the acting Committee of
the Association,1 taking notice of the time it would require to
prepare an account in detail, as it now appears; and being desirous
of gratifying, as speedily as possible, the curiosity which many
of the Members were pleased to express concerning my discoveries,
determined that an epitome, or abridgment of my travels, should be
forthwith prepared from such materials and oral communications as I
could furnish, and printed for the use of the Association; and also,
that an engraved Map of my route should accompany it. A memoir,
thus supplied and improved, was accordingly drawn up in two parts,
by Members of the Association, and distributed among the Society:
the first part consisting of a narrative, in abstract, of my travels,
by Bryan Edwards, Esq.; the second, of Geographical Illustrations of
my progress, by Major James Rennell, F.R.S. Major Rennell was pleased
also to add, not only a Map of my route, constructed in conformity
to my own observations and sketches (when freed from those errors,
which the Major’s superior knowledge, and distinguished accuracy
in geographical researches, enabled him to discover and correct), but
also a General Map, shewing the progress of discovery, and improvement
in the Geography of North Africa; together with a Chart of the lines
of magnetic variation, in the seas around that immense continent.
Availing myself therefore, on the present occasion, of assistance
like this, it is impossible that I can present myself before the
Public, without expressing how deeply and gratefully sensible I am
of the honour and advantage which I derive from the labours of those
Gentlemen; for Mr. Edwards has kindly permitted me to incorporate, as
occasion offered, the whole of his narrative into different parts of
my work; and Major Rennell, with equal good will, allows me not only
to embellish and elucidate my Travels, with the Maps beforementioned,
but also to subjoin his Geographical Illustrations _entire_.
Thus aided and encouraged, I should deliver this volume to the world,
with that confidence of a favourable reception, which no merits
of my own could authorize me to claim; were I not apprehensive
that expectations have been formed, by some of my subscribers, of
discoveries to be unfolded, which I have not made, and of wonders to
be related, of which I am utterly ignorant. There is danger that those
who feel a disappointment of this nature, finding less to astonish
and amuse in my book, than they had promised to themselves beforehand,
will not even allow me the little merit which I really possess. Painful
as this circumstance may prove to my feelings, I shall console myself
under it, if the distinguished persons, under whose auspices I entered
on my mission, shall allow that I have executed the duties of it to
their satisfaction; and that they consider the Journal which I have now
the honour to present to them, to be, what I have endeavoured to make
it, an honest and faithful report of my proceedings and observations
in their service, from the outset of my journey to its termination.
M. P.
[Footnote 1: This Committee consists of the following Noblemen and
Gentlemen; Earl of Moira, Lord Bishop of Landaff, Right Hon. Sir Joseph
Banks, President of the Royal Society; Andrew Stewart, Esq. F.R.S. and
Bryan Edwards, Esq. F.R.S. Concerning the original institution of
the Society itself, and the progress of discovery, previous to my
expedition, the fullest information has already been given in the
various publications which the Society have caused to be made.]
CONTENTS.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
_The Author’s Motives for undertaking the Voyage — his
Instructions and Departure — arrives at Jillifree, on the
Gambia River — proceeds to Vintain. — Some Account of the
Feloops. — Proceeds up the River for Jonkakonda — arrives
at Dr. Laidley’s. — Some Account of Pisania, and the
British Factory established at that Place. — The Author’s
Employment during his Stay at Pisania — his Sickness and
Recovery — the Country described — prepares to set out for
the Interior._ _page_ 1
CHAPTER II.
_Description of the Feloops, the Jaloffs, the Foulahs, and
Mandingoes. — Some Account of the Trade between the Nations
of Europe and the Natives of Africa by the Way of the
Gambia, and between the Native Inhabitants of the Coast and
the Nations of the interior Countries — their Mode of
selling and buying, &c._ _p._ 15
CHAPTER III.
_The Author sets out from Pisania — his Attendants —
reaches Jindey. — Story related by a Mandingo Negro. —
Proceeds to Medina, the Capital of Woolli. — Interview with
the King. — Saphies or Charms. — Proceeds to Kolor. —
Description of Mumbo Jumbo — arrives at Koojar — wrestling
Match. — Crosses the Wilderness, and arrives at Tallika, in
the Kingdom of Bondou._ _p._ 29
CHAPTER IV.
_Some Account of the Inhabitants of Tallika. — The Author
proceeds for Fatteconda — Incidents on the Road. — Crosses
the Neriko, arrives at Koorkarany — reaches the River
Falemé — Fishery on that River — proceeds along its Bank to
Naye or Nayemow — crosses the Falemé and arrives at
Fatteconda. — Has an Interview with Almami, the Sovereign
of Bondou. — Description of the King’s Dwelling — has a
second Interview with the King, who begs the Author’s Coat.
— Author visits the King’s Wives — is permitted to depart
on friendly Terms. — Journey by Night — arrives at Joag. —
Some Account of Bondou and its Inhabitants the
Foulahs._ _p._ 46
CHAPTER V.
_Account of Kajaaga. — Serawoollies — their Manners and
Language. — Account of Joag. — The Author is ill treated,
and robbed of half of his Effects, by Order of Batcheri,
the King. — Charity of a female Slave. — The Author is
visited by Demba Sego, Nephew of the King of Kasson, who
offers to conduct him in safety to that Kingdom. — Offer
accepted. — The Author and his Protector, with a numerous
Retinue, set out and reach Samee, on the Banks of the
Senegal. — Proceed to Kayee, and crossing the Senegal,
arrive in the Kingdom of Kasson._ _p._ 63
CHAPTER VI.
_Arrival at Teesee. — Interview with Tiggity Sego, the
King’s Brother — the Author’s detention at Teesee — some
Account of that Place and its Inhabitants — incidents which
occurred there. — Rapacious Conduct of Tiggity Sego towards
the Author on his Departure. — Sets out for Kooniakary, the
Capital of the Kingdom. — Incidents on the Road, and
Arrival at Kooniakary._ _p._ 74
CHAPTER VII.
_The Author admitted to an Audience of the King of Kasson,
whom he finds well disposed towards him. — Incidents during
the Author’s Stay at Kooniakary. — Departs thence for
Kemmoo, the Capital of Kaarta. — Is received with great
Kindness by the King of Kaarta, who dissuades him from
prosecuting his Journey, on Account of approaching
Hostilities with the King of Bambarra. — The Author
determines, notwithstanding, to proceed; and the usual
Routes being obstructed, takes the Path to Ludamar, a
Moorish Kingdom. — Is accommodated by the King with a Guide
to Jarra, the frontier Town of the Moorish Territories; and
sets out for that Place, accompanied by three of the King’s
Sons, and 200 Horsemen._ _p._ 85
CHAPTER VIII.
_Journey from Kemmoo to Funingkedy. — Some Account of the
Lotus. — A Youth murdered by the Moors — interesting Scene
at his Death. — Author passes through Simbing. — Some
Particulars concerning Major Houghton. — Author reaches
Jarra — Situation of the surrounding States at the Period
of his Arrival there, and a brief Account of the War
between Kaarta and Bambarra._ _p._ 98
CHAPTER IX.
_Some Account of Jarra, and the Moorish Inhabitants. — The
Author applies for, and obtains Permission from Ali, the
Moorish Chief or Sovereign of Ludamar, to pass through his
Territories. — Departs from Jarra, and arrives at Deena —
ill treated by the Moors. — Proceeds to Sampaka — finds a
Negro who makes Gunpowder. — Continues his Journey to
Samee, where he is seized by some Moors who are sent for
that Purpose by Ali — is conveyed a Prisoner to the Moorish
Camp at Benowm, on the Borders of the Great Desert._ _p._ 111
CHAPTER X.
_Various Occurrences during the Author’s Confinement at
Benowm — is visited by some Moorish Ladies. — A Funeral and
Wedding. — The Author receives an extraordinary Present
from the Bride. — Other Circumstances illustrative of the
Moorish Character and Manners._ _p._ 126
CHAPTER XI.
_Occurrences at the Camp continued. — Information collected
by the Author, concerning Houssa and Tombuctoo; and the
situation of the latter. — The Route described from Morocco
to Benowm. — The Author’s Distress from Hunger. — Ali
removes his Camp to the Northward. — The Author is carried
Prisoner to the new Encampment, and is presented to Queen
Fatima. — Great Distress from the Want of Water._ _p._ 138
CHAPTER XII.
_Containing some further miscellaneous Reflections on the
Moorish Character, and Manners. — Observations concerning
the Great Desert, its Animals, wild and domestic, &c.
&c._ _p._ 149
CHAPTER XIII.
_Ali departs for Jarra, and the Author allowed to follow
him thither. — The Author’s faithful Servant, Demba, is
seized by Ali’s Order, and sent back into Slavery. — Ali
returns to his Camp, and permits the Author to remain at
Jarra, who, thenceforward, meditates his Escape. — Daisy,
King of Kaarta, approaching with his Army towards Jarra,
the Inhabitants quit the town, and the Author accompanies
them in their Flight. — A Party of Moors overtake him at
Queira. — He gets away from them at Daybreak: — is again
pursued by another Party, and robbed; but finally effects
his Escape._ _p._ 161
CHAPTER XIV.
_The Author feels great Joy at his Deliverance, and
proceeds through the Wilderness, E.S.E.; but finds his
Situation very deplorable. — Suffers greatly from Thirst,
and faints on the Sand: — recovers, and makes another
Effort to push forward. Is providentially relieved by a
Fall of Rain. — Arrives at a Foulah Village, where he is
refused Relief by the Dooty; but obtains Food from a poor
Woman. — Continues his Journey through the Wilderness, and
the next Day lights on another Foulah Village, where he is
hospitably received by one of the Shepherds. — Arrives on
the third Day at a Negro Town called Wawra, tributary to
the King of Bambarra._ _p._ 175
CHAPTER XV.
_The Author proceeds to Wassiboo — is joined by some
fugitive Kaartans, who accompany him in his Route through
Bambarra. — Discovers the Niger. — Some Account of Sego,
the Capital of Bambarra. — Mansong, the King, refuses to
see the Author, but sends him a Present. — Great
Hospitality of a Negro Woman._ _p._ 185
CHAPTER XVI.
_Departure from Sego, and Arrival at Kabba. — Description
of the Shea, or vegetable Butter Tree. — The Author and his
Guide arrive at Sansanding. Behaviour of the Moors at that
Place. — The Author pursues his Journey to the Eastward. —
Incidents on the Road. — Arrives at Modiboo, and proceeds
for Kea; but obliged to leave his Horse by the Way. —
Embarks at Kea in a Fisherman’s Canoe for Moorzan; is
conveyed from thence across the Niger to Silla. —
Determines to proceed no further Eastward. — Some Account
of the further Course of the Niger, and the Towns in its
Vicinage, towards the East._ _p._ 201
CHAPTER XVII.
_The Author returns Westward — arrives at Modiboo, and
recovers his Horse — finds great Difficulty in travelling,
in consequence of the Rains, and the overflowing of the
River; — is informed that the King of Bambarra had sent
Persons to apprehend him: — avoids Sego, and prosecutes his
Journey along the Banks of the Niger. — Incidents on the
Road. — Cruelties attendant on African Wars. — The Author
crosses the River Frina, and arrives at Taffara._ _p._ 218
CHAPTER XVIII.
_Inhospitable Reception at Taffara. — A Negro Funeral at
Sooha. — The Author continues his Route through several
Villages along the Banks of the Niger, until he comes to
Koolikorro. — Supports himself by writing_ Saphies —
_reaches Maraboo — loses the Road; and after many
Difficulties arrives at Bammakoo. — Takes the Road for
Sibidooloo — meets with great Kindness at a Village called
Kooma; — is afterwards robbed, stripped, and plundered by
Banditti. — The Author’s Resource and Consolation under
exquisite Distress. — He arrives in Safety at
Sibidooloo._ _p._ 233
CHAPTER XIX.
_Government of Manding. — The Author’s Reception by the
Mansa, or chief Man of Sibidooloo, who takes Measures for
the Recovery of his Horse and Effects. — The Author removes
to Wanda; — great Scarcity, and its afflicting
Consequences. — The Author recovers his Horse and Clothes —
presents his Horse to the Mansa; and prosecutes his Journey
to Kamalia — some Account of that Town. — The Author’s kind
Reception by Karfa Taura, a Slatee, who proposes to go to
the Gambia in the next dry Season, with a Caravan of Slaves
— The Author’s Sickness, and Determination to remain and
accompany Karfa._ _p._ 245
CHAPTER XX.
_Of the Climate and Seasons. — Winds. — Vegetable
Productions. — Population. — General Observations on the
Character and Disposition of the Mandingoes; and a summary
Account of their Manners and Habits of Life, their
Marriages, &c._ _p._ 258
CHAPTER XXI.
_The Account of the Mandingoes continued. — Their Notions
in respect of the Planetary Bodies, and the Figure of the
Earth. — Their religious Opinions, and Belief in a Future
State. — Their Diseases and Methods of Treatment. — Their
Funeral Ceremonies, Amusements, Occupations, Diet, Arts,
Manufactures, &c._ _p._ 271
CHAPTER XXII.
_Observations concerning the State and Sources of Slavery
in Africa._ _p._ 287
CHAPTER XXIII.
_Of Gold-dust, and the Manner in which it is collected. —
Process of Washing it. — Its Value in Africa. — Of Ivory. —
Surprise of the Negroes at the Eagerness of the Europeans
for this Commodity. — Scattered Teeth frequently picked up
in the Woods. — Mode of Hunting the Elephant. — Some
Reflections on the unimproved State of the Country,
&c._ _p._ 299
CHAPTER XXIV.
_Transactions at Kamalia resumed. — Arabic MSS. in Use
among the Mahomedan Negroes. — Reflections concerning the
Conversion and Education of the Negro Children. — Return of
the Author’s Benefactor, Karfa. — Further Account of the
Purchase and Treatment of Slaves. — Fast of Rhamadan how
observed by the Negroes. — Author’s anxiety for the Day of
Departure. — The Caravan sets out — Account of it on its
Departure, and Proceedings on the Road, until its Arrival
at Kinytakooro._ _p._ 313
CHAPTER XXV.
_The Coffle crosses the Jallonka Wilderness. — Miserable
Fate of one of the female Slaves; — arrives at Sooseeta; —
proceeds to Manna. — Some Account of the Jalonkas. —
Crosses the main Stream of the Senegal. — Bridge of a
singular Construction. — Arrives at Malacotta. — Remarkable
Conduct of the King of the Jaloffs._ _p._ 329
CHAPTER XXVI.
_The Caravan proceeds to Konkodoo, and crosses the Falemé
River. — Its arrival at Baniserile, Kirwani, and
Tambacunda. — Incidents on the Road. A matrimonial Case. —
Specimen of the Shea Tree. — The Caravan proceeds through
many Towns and Villages, and arrives at length on the Banks
of Gambia. — passes through Medina, the Capital of Woolli,
and finally stops at Jindey. — The Author, accompanied by
Karfa, proceeds to Pisania. — Various Occurrences previous
to his Departure from Africa, — takes his Passage in an
American Ship. — Short Account of his Voyage to Great
Britain by the Way of the West Indies._ _p._ 345.
APPENDIX.
CHAPTER I.
_Concerning the Ideas entertained by the Ancient
Geographers, as well as the Moderns, down to the Times of
Delisle and D’Anville, respecting the Course of the River
Niger._ page iii
CHAPTER II.
_Concerning the Geographical Discoveries of Mr. Park._ p. xiii
CHAPTER III.
_Construction of the Geography of Mr. Park’s Expedition
into Africa._ p. xxii
CHAPTER IV.
_The Construction of the Geography continued._ p. xxxvi
CHAPTER V.
_Construction of the New Map of North Africa. — New
Arrangement of the Course of the Nile — Its distant
Fountain yet unexplored by Europeans. — A central Position
in Africa, determined. — Edrisi’s Line of Distance,
consistent. — Errors of Leo._ p. li
CHAPTER VI.
_The Subject continued — Course of the River Niger, at
large — has no Communication with the Nile — Ptolemy’s
Description of it consistent._ p. lxx
CHAPTER VII.
_Observations on the_ physical _and_ political _Geography
of North Africa — Naturally divisible into three Parts —
Productive in Gold — Boundary of the Moors and Negroes —
the_ Foulahs, _the_ Leucæthiopes _of the Ancients._ p. lxxxii
_The following_ AFRICAN WORDS, _recurring very frequently in the course
of the Narrative, it is thought necessary to prefix an Explanation
of them for the Reader’s convenience._
* * * * *
_Mansa._ A king or chief governor.
_Alkaid._ The head magistrate of a town or province, whose office
is commonly hereditary.
_Dooty._ Another name for the chief magistrate of a town or
province: this word is used only in the interior countries.
_Palaver._ A court of justice; a public meeting of any kind.
_Bushreen._ A mussulman.
_Kafir._ A Pagan native; an unbeliever.
_Sonakee._ Another term for an unconverted native; it signifies
one who drinks strong liquors, and is used by way of reproach.
_Slatees._ Free black merchants, who trade chiefly in slaves.
_Coffle_ or _Caffila._ A caravan of slaves, or a company of people
travelling with any kind of merchandize.
_Bar._ Nominal money; a single bar is equal in value to two
shillings sterling, or thereabouts.
_Minkalli._ A quantity of gold, nearly equal in value to ten
shillings sterling.
_Kowries._ Small shells, which pass for money in the Interior.
_Korree._ A watering-place, where shepherds keep their cattle.
_Bentang._ A sort of stage, erected in every town, answering the
purpose of a town hall.
_Baloon._ A room in which strangers are commonly lodged.
_Soofroo._ A skin for containing water.
_Saphie._ An amulet or charm.
_Kouskous._ A dish prepared from boiled corn.
_Shea-toulou._ Vegetable butter.
_Calabash._ A species of gourd, of which the Negroes make bowls
and dishes.
_Paddle._ A sort of hoe used in husbandry.
* * * * *
ERRATA.
Page 13, line 9, after the word _of_, insert _the_.
—— 18, the third line from the bottom, for _Mandigoes_, read
_Mandingoes_. This error occurs in some other places.
—— 20, line 6, after the word _as_, insert _counsel_.
—— 30, line 8, dele _and_.
—— 47, line 14, after _expression_, insert _even_.
—— 60, line 14, after _Prophet_ dele the period.
—— 91, third line from the bottom, after _difficulty_, insert _and_.
—— 136, line 4, dele _there_.
—— 261, third line from the bottom, for _is_, read _was_.
[Symbol] The _Mandingo_ language being merely oral, it sometimes
unavoidably happened to the Author, in reducing African terms to
writing, to express the same word differently, in different parts
of his journal. Thus, on revising his papers, he found _Jillifree_
and _Jillifrey_ used indiscriminately for the name of the same
town; and in like manner _Kinyeto_ and _Kenneyetoo_; _Cancaba_ and
_Kancaba_; _Tambacunda_ and _Tombaconda_; and some others. As this
was not observed until many of the sheets were printed, some of
these instances of inattention will be found in the ensuing work,
which it is hoped the good-natured reader will excuse. In cases of
doubt, the Map of the Author’s route is generally to be considered
as the best authority; and to that also he refers for the course and
distance of each day’s progress.
SUBSCRIBERS’ NAMES.
* * * * *
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* * * * *
DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
Portrait to face the Title
Route of Mr. Park Chap. I.
Rhamnus Lotus page 100
View of Ali’s Tent 122
View of Kamalia 252
View of a Bridge 338
Shea, or the Butter Tree 352
APPENDIX.
Map of North Africa Chap. I.
Chart of Variations page xxvii
[Illustration: _The ROUTE of_ Mr. MUNGO PARK, _from_ Pisania _on
the River_ Gambia, _to_ Silla, _on the River_ Joliba, _or_ Niger;
_With his_ return _by the_ Southern Route, _to_ Pisania. Compiled
_from_ Mr. Park’s _Observations, Notes, & Sketches, By_ J. Rennell.
_Published according to Act of Parliament by James Rennell
5.April 1798._]
TRAVELS
IN THE
INTERIOR OF AFRICA.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
_The Author’s Motives for undertaking the Voyage — his Instructions
and Departure — arrives at Jillifree, on the Gambia River —
proceeds to Vintain. — Some Account of the Feloops. — Proceeds
up the River for Jonkakonda — arrives at Dr. Laidley’s. —
Some Account of Pisania, and the British Factory established at that
Place. — The Author’s Employment during his Stay at Pisania —
his Sickness and Recovery — the Country described — prepares to
set out for the Interior._
Soon after my return from the East Indies in 1793, having learnt that
the Noblemen and Gentlemen, associated for the purpose of prosecuting
Discoveries in the Interior of Africa, were desirous of engaging a
person to explore that continent, by the way of the Gambia river, I
took occasion, through means of the President of the Royal Society,
to whom I had the honour to be known, of offering myself for that
service. I had been informed, that a gentleman of the name of Houghton,
a Captain in the army, and formerly Fort-Major at Goree, had already
sailed to the Gambia, under the direction of the Association, and that
there was reason to apprehend he had fallen a sacrifice to the climate,
or perished in some contest with the natives; but this intelligence,
instead of deterring me from my purpose, animated me to persist in the
offer of my services with the greater solicitude. I had a passionate
desire to examine into the productions of a country so little known;
and to become experimentally acquainted with the modes of life, and
character of the natives. I knew that I was able to bear fatigue;
and I relied on my youth, and the strength of my constitution, to
preserve me from the effects of the climate. The salary which the
Committee allowed was sufficiently large, and I made no stipulation
for future reward. If I should perish in my journey, I was willing
that my hopes and expectations should perish with me; and if I
should succeed in rendering the geography of Africa more familiar
to my countrymen, and in opening to their ambition and industry new
sources of wealth, and new channels of commerce, I knew that I was
in the hands of men of honour, who would not fail to bestow that
remuneration which my successful services should appear to them to
merit. The Committee of the Association, having made such inquiries
as they thought necessary, declared themselves satisfied with the
qualifications that I possessed, and accepted me for the service;
and with that liberality which on all occasions distinguishes their
conduct, gave me every encouragement which it was in their power to
grant, or which I could with propriety ask.
It was at first proposed that I should accompany Mr. James Willis,
who was then recently appointed Consul at Senegambia, and whose
countenance in that capacity it was thought might have served and
protected me; but Government afterwards rescinded his appointment,
and I lost that advantage. The kindness of the Committee, however,
supplied all that was necessary. Being favoured by the Secretary of
the Association, the late Henry Beaufoy, Esq. with a recommendation to
Dr. John Laidley (a gentleman who had resided many years at an English
factory on the banks of the Gambia), and furnished with a letter of
credit on him for £200, I took my passage in the brig Endeavour, a
small vessel trading to the Gambia for bees-wax and ivory, commanded
by Captain Richard Wyatt, and I became impatient for my departure.
My instructions were very plain and concise. I was directed, on
my arrival in Africa, “to pass on to the river Niger, either by
the way of Bambouk, or by such other route as should be found most
convenient. That I should ascertain the course, and, if possible,
the rise and termination of that river. That I should use my utmost
exertions to visit the principal towns or cities in its neighbourhood,
particularly Tombuctoo and Houssa; and that I should be afterwards at
liberty to return to Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by
such other route, as, under all the then existing circumstances of my
situation and prospects, should appear to me to be most advisable.”
We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22d day of May, 1795. On the 4th
of June, we saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the coast of Africa;
and on the 21st of the same month, after a pleasant voyage of thirty
days, we anchored at Jillifree, a town on the northern bank of the
river Gambia, opposite to James’s Island, where the English had
formerly a small fort.
The kingdom of Barra, in which the town of Jillifree is situated,
produces great plenty of the necessaries of life; but the chief trade
of the inhabitants is in salt; which commodity they carry up the river
in canoes as high as Barraconda, and bring down in return Indian corn,
cotton cloths, elephants’ teeth, small quantities of gold dust,
&c. The number of canoes and people constantly employed in this trade,
make the King of Barra more formidable to Europeans than any other
chieftain on the river; and this circumstance probably encouraged him
to establish those exorbitant duties, which traders of all nations are
obliged to pay at entry, amounting to nearly £20. on every vessel,
great and small. These duties, or customs, are generally collected in
person by the Alkaid, or Governor of Jillifree, and he is attended
on these occasions by a numerous train of dependants, among whom
are found many who, by their frequent intercourse with the English,
have acquired a smattering of our language; but they are commonly
very noisy, and very troublesome; begging for every thing they fancy
with such earnestness and importunity, that traders, in order to get
quit of them, are frequently obliged to grant their requests.
On the 23d we departed from Jillifree, and proceeded to Vintain,
a town situated about two miles up a creek on the southern side of
the river. This place is much resorted to by Europeans, on account of
the great quantities of bees-wax which are brought hither for sale:
the wax is collected in the woods by the Feloops, a wild and unsociable
race of people; their country, which is of considerable extent, abounds
in rice; and the natives supply the traders, both on the Gambia, and
Cassamansa rivers, with that article, and also with goats and poultry,
on very reasonable terms. The honey which they collect is chiefly
used by themselves in making a strong intoxicating liquor, much the
same as the mead which is produced from honey in Great Britain.
In their traffic with Europeans, the Feloops generally employ a factor,
or agent, of the Mandingo nation, who speaks a little English, and is
acquainted with the trade of the river. This broker makes the bargain;
and, with the connivance of the European, receives a certain part
only of the payment; which he gives to his employer as the whole;
the remainder (which is very truly called the _cheating money_)
he receives when the Feloop is gone, and appropriates to himself,
as a reward for his trouble.
The language of the Feloops is appropriate and peculiar; and as their
trade is chiefly conducted, as hath been observed, by Mandingoes, the
Europeans have no inducement to learn it. The numerals are as follow:
One --- _Enory_.
Two --- _Sickaba_, or _Cookaba_.
Three --- _Sisajee_.
Four --- _Sibakeer_.
Five --- _Footuck_.
Six --- _Footuck-Enory_.
Seven --- _Footuck-Cookaba_.
Eight --- _Footuck-Sisajee_.
Nine --- _Footuck-Sibakeer_.
Ten --- _Sibankonyen_.
On the 26th we left Vintain, and continued our course up the river,
anchoring whenever the tide failed us, and frequently towing the
vessel with the boat. The river is deep and muddy; the banks are
covered with impenetrable thickets of mangrove; and the whole of the
adjacent country appears to be flat and swampy.
The Gambia abounds with fish, some species of which are excellent
food; but none of them that I recollect are known in Europe. At
the entrance from the sea, sharks are found in great abundance;
and, higher up, alligators, and the hippopotamus (or river horse)
are very numerous. The latter might with more propriety be called
the river-elephant, being of an enormous and unwieldy bulk, and his
teeth furnish good ivory. This animal is amphibious, with short and
thick legs, and cloven hoofs; it feeds on grass, and such shrubs as
the banks of the river afford, boughs of trees, &c. seldom venturing
far from the water, in which it seeks refuge on hearing the approach
of man. I have seen many, and always found them of a timid and
inoffensive disposition.
In six days after leaving Vintain, we reached Jonkakonda, a place
of considerable trade, where our vessel was to take in part of her
lading. The next morning, the several European traders came from their
different factories to receive their letters, and learn the nature
and amount of the cargo; and the Captain, dispatched a messenger to
Dr. Laidley to inform him of my arrival. He came to Jonkakonda the
morning following, when I delivered him Mr. Beaufoy’s letter, and
he gave me a kind invitation to spend my time at his house until an
opportunity should offer of prosecuting my journey. This invitation
was too acceptable to be refused, and being furnished by the Doctor
with a horse and guide, I set out from Jonkakonda at daybreak on the
5th of July, and at eleven o’clock arrived at Pisania, where I was
accommodated with a room, and other conveniences in the Doctor’s
house.
Pisania is a small village in the King of Yany’s dominions,
established by British subjects as a factory for trade, and inhabited
solely by them and their black servants. It is situated on the banks
of the Gambia, sixteen miles above Jonkakonda. The white residents,
at the time of my arrival there, consisted only of Dr. Laidley,
and two gentlemen who were brothers, of the name of Ainsley; but
their domestics were numerous. They enjoyed perfect security under
the king’s protection, and being highly esteemed and respected by
the natives at large, wanted no accommodation or comfort which the
country could supply; and the greatest part of the trade in slaves,
ivory, and gold, was in their hands.
Being now settled for some time at my ease, my first object was to
learn the Mandingo tongue, being the language in almost general use
throughout this part of Africa; and without which I was fully convinced
that I never could acquire an extensive knowledge of the country or its
inhabitants. In this pursuit I was greatly assisted by Dr. Laidley,
who, by a long residence in the country, and constant intercourse
with the natives, had made himself completely master of it. Next to
the language, my great object was to collect information concerning
the countries I intended to visit. On this occasion I was referred
to certain traders called Slatees. These are free black merchants,
of great consideration in this part of Africa, who come down from
the interior countries, chiefly with enslaved Negroes for sale;
but I soon discovered that very little dependance could be placed on
the accounts which they gave; for they contradicted each other in the
most important particulars, and all of them seemed extremely unwilling
that I should prosecute my journey. These circumstances increased my
anxiety to ascertain the truth from my own personal observations.
In researches of this kind, and in observing the manners and customs
of the natives, in a country so little known to the nations of Europe,
and furnished with so many striking and uncommon objects of nature,
my time passed not unpleasantly; and I began to flatter myself that
I had escaped the fever, or seasoning, to which Europeans, on their
first arrival in hot climates, are generally subject. But, on the 31st
of July, I imprudently exposed myself to the night dew, in observing
an eclipse of the moon, with a view to determine the longitude of
the place: the next day I found myself attacked with a smart fever
and delirium; and such an illness followed, as confined me to the
house during the greatest part of August. My recovery was very slow:
but I embraced every short interval of convalescence to walk out, and
make myself acquainted with the productions of the country. In one of
those excursions, having rambled farther than usual, in a hot day,
I brought on a return of my fever, and on the 10th of September I
was again confined to my bed. The fever, however, was not so violent
as before; and in the course of three weeks I was able, when the
weather would permit, to renew my botanical excursions; and when it
rained, I amused myself with drawing plants, &c. in my chamber. The
care and attention of Dr. Laidley contributed greatly to alleviate
my sufferings; his company and conversation beguiled the tedious
hours during that gloomy season, when the rain falls in torrents;
when suffocating heats oppress by day, and when the night is spent
by the terrified traveller in listening to the croaking of frogs,
(of which the numbers are beyond imagination,) the shrill cry of
the jackall, and the deep howling of the hyæna; a dismal concert,
interrupted only by the roar of such tremendous thunder as no person
can form a conception of but those who have heard it.
The country itself being an immense level, and very generally covered
with woods, presents a tiresome and gloomy uniformity to the eye; but
although nature has denied to the inhabitants the beauties of romantic
landscapes, she has bestowed on them, with a liberal hand, the more
important blessings of fertility and abundance. A little attention
to cultivation procures a sufficiency of corn; the fields afford a
rich pasturage for cattle; and the natives are plentifully supplied
with excellent fish, both from the Gambia river and the Walli creek.
The grains which are chiefly cultivated are Indian corn, (_zea mays_);
two kinds of _holcus spicatus_, called by the natives _soono_ and
_sanio_; _holcus niger_, and _holcus bicolor_; the former of which
they have named _bassi woolima_, and the latter _bassiqui_. These,
together with rice, are raised in considerable quantities; besides
which, the inhabitants, in the vicinity of the towns and villages, have
gardens which produce onions, calavances, yams, cassavi, ground-nuts,
pompions, gourds, water melons, and some other esculent plants.
I observed likewise, near the towns, small patches of cotton and
indigo. The former of these articles supplies them with clothing,
and with the latter they dye their cloth of an excellent blue colour,
in a manner that will hereafter be described.
In preparing their corn for food, the natives use a large wooden mortar
called a _paloon_, in which they bruise the seed until it parts with
the outer covering, or husk, which is then separated from the clean
corn, by exposing it to the wind; nearly in the same manner as wheat is
cleared from the chaff in England. The corn thus freed from the husk,
is returned to the mortar, and beaten into meal; which is dressed
variously in different countries; but the most common preparation
of it among the nations of the Gambia, is a sort of pudding, which
they call _kouskous_. It is made by first moistening the flour with
water, and then stirring and shaking it about in a large calabash,
or gourd, till it adheres together in small granules, resembling
sago. It is then put into an earthen pot, whose bottom is perforated
with a number of small holes; and this pot being placed upon another,
the two vessels are luted together, either with a paste of meal and
water, or with cows’ dung, and placed upon the fire. In the lower
vessel is commonly some animal food and water, the steam or vapour
of which ascends through the perforations in the bottom of the upper
vessel, and softens and prepares the _kouskous_, which is very much
esteemed throughout all the countries that I visited. I am informed,
that the same manner of preparing flour, is very generally used on
the Barbary coast, and that the dish so prepared, is there called by
the same name. It is therefore probable, that the Negroes borrowed
the practice from the Moors.
For gratifying a taste for variety, another sort of pudding, called
_nealing_, is sometimes prepared from the meal of corn; and they have
also adopted two or three different modes of dressing their rice. Of
vegetable food, therefore, the natives have no want; and although the
common class of people are but sparingly supplied with animal food,
yet this article is not wholly withheld from them.
Their domestic animals are nearly the same as in Europe. Swine are
found in the woods, but their flesh is not esteemed: probably the
marked abhorrence in which this animal is held by the votaries of
Mahomet, has spread itself among the Pagans. Poultry of all kinds
(the turkey excepted) is every where to be had. The Guinea fowl and red
partridge, abound in the fields; and the woods furnish a small species
of antelope, of which the venison is highly and deservedly prized.
Of the other wild animals in the Mandingo countries, the most common
are the hyæna, the panther, and the elephant. Considering the use
that is made of the latter in the East Indies, it may be thought
extraordinary, that the natives of Africa have not, in any part of
this immense continent, acquired the skill of taming this powerful
and docile creature, and applying his strength and faculties to the
service of man. When I told some of the natives that this was actually
done in the countries of the East, my auditors laughed me to scorn,
and exclaimed, _Tobaubo fonnio!_ (a white man’s lie.) The Negroes
frequently find means to destroy the elephant by fire arms; they
hunt it principally for the sake of the teeth, which they transfer
in barter to those who sell them again to the Europeans. The flesh
they eat, and consider it as a great delicacy.
The usual beast of burthen in all the Negro territories, is the
ass. The application of animal labour to the purposes of agriculture,
is no where adopted; the plough, therefore, is wholly unknown. The
chief implement used in husbandry is the hoe, which varies in form in
different districts; and the labour is universally performed by slaves.
On the 6th of October the waters of the Gambia were at the greatest
height, being fifteen feet above the high-water mark of the tide;
after which they began to subside; at first slowly, but afterwards
very rapidly; sometimes sinking more than a foot in twenty-four hours:
by the beginning of November the river had sunk to its former level,
and the tide ebbed and flowed as usual. When the river had subsided,
and the atmosphere grew dry, I recovered apace, and began to think
of my departure; for this is reckoned the most proper season for
travelling: the natives had completed their harvest, and provisions
were every where cheap and plentiful.
Dr. Laidley was at this time employed in a trading voyage at
Jonkakonda. I wrote to him to desire that he would use his interest
with the slatees, or slave merchants, to procure me the company
and protection of the first _coffle_ (or caravan,) that might leave
Gambia for the interior country; and in the mean time I requested
him to purchase for me a horse, and two asses. A few days afterwards
the Doctor returned to Pisania, and informed me that a coffle would
certainly go for the interior, in the course of the dry season; but
that as many of the merchants belonging to it had not yet completed
their assortment of goods, he could not say at what time they would
set out.
As the characters and dispositions of the slatees, and people that
composed the caravan, were entirely unknown to me, and as they
seemed rather averse to my purpose, and unwilling to enter into any
positive engagements on my account; and the time of their departure
being withal very uncertain, I resolved, on further deliberation,
to avail myself of the dry season, and proceed without them.
Dr. Laidley approved my determination, and promised me every assistance
in his power, to enable me to prosecute my journey with comfort
and safety.
This resolution having been formed, I made preparations
accordingly. And now, being about to take leave of my hospitable
friend, (whose kindness and solicitude continued to the moment of my
departure,[2]) and to quit, for many months, the countries bordering
on the Gambia, it seems proper, before I proceed with my narrative,
that I should, in this place, give some account of the several Negro
nations which inhabit the banks of this celebrated river; and the
commercial intercourse that subsists between them, and such of the
nations of Europe as find their advantage in trading to this part
of Africa. The observations which have occurred to me on both these
subjects, will be found in the following Chapter.
[Footnote 2: Dr. Laidley, to my infinite regret, has since paid the
debt of nature. He left Africa in the latter end of 1797, intending
to return to Great Britain by way of the West Indies; and died soon
after his arrival at Barbadoes.]