LETTER XXXVI.

Fort Royal, Martinique, May 16.

Sir Ralph Abercromby having taken up his quarters at Fort Royal, instead

of St. Pierre, I have changed my home, in order to avail myself of the

opportunity of laying before His Excellency a full statement of the

returns, accompts, and general proceedings of the hospital department

lately under my direction: and I feel much satisfaction in being able to

inform you that the reports which I have presented have been honored

with the full approbation of our respected commander in chief, who has

confirmed his approval of the services of the branch of the St. Domingo

hospital staff, lately stationed in Guiana, by issuing his warrant for

all deficiencies of pay and disbursements to be made up to us before we

leave Martinique.

As a military position, Fort Royal is much stronger than St. Pierre;

but, the town is smaller, less pleasant, built upon flatter ground, and,

in point of situation, even less salubrious. Still it is peculiarly

convenient as a residence for the commander in chief, on account of the

vicinity of the harbour, and the ready communication, which it offers,

with the admiral and the fleet. The forts and batteries raised about it,

for the defence of the town and the shipping, have been constructed at

an immense expenditure of labour and money. They are very formidable,

and of imposing aspect; particularly Fort George, which is built upon a

high and distinct tumulus, so steep as to be difficult of ascent; and

commands the town, the bay, the Carenage, and the other batteries below,

while these form the more immediate protection of the shipping.

Such indeed is the strength of the hill on which Fort George is

constructed, that, if it were duly garrisoned and provided, it might

resist the attack of almost any force that could be brought against it.

The harbour is extensive, and, from the safe anchorage which it affords

to a very large fleet, it renders this island particularly important in

a time of war.

We came from St. Pierre to Fort Royal in one of the passage-boats of the

island, which of all the modes I have yet experienced of journeying by

sea, I found to be the least unpleasant. It is a large canoe rowed by

three negroes, a fourth sitting at the end and steering with a paddle. A

light awning is raised over the sternmost part of the vessel, and the

deck is neatly spread with matting, upon which the passenger may sit, or

lie down at his ease, and view the rich coast of the island as he

passes. Being narrow and very long, this little bark is pulled on with

great rapidity, the motion being so slight as scarcely to be felt.

Sometimes, when going to leeward, the negroes, in order to save

themselves the trouble of rowing, venture to hoist a sail: but this is

always dangerous, the canoe, from its lightness, being liable to be

upset by any sudden gust of wind, which might proceed from the small

bays, or round the points of any of the rocks, at the moment when it

should happen to be passing.

The distance, by sea, from St. Pierre to Fort Royal is seventeen or

eighteen miles; but the time required for the passage will of course

vary according to the state of the wind, and the period of the tide. We

performed it in three hours.

There is a nearer way by land, but the road is rugged, and leads across

rude and broken hills; the passage-boat is, therefore, the more common

conveyance between the two towns.

In addition to the excellent sight of the luxuriant borders of the

island afforded us by this little voyage, the beauty and interest of the

scene were greatly enhanced by our falling in with the expedition

returning from Porto Rico; consisting of about forty sail of ships,

standing along the coast, towards Fort Royal harbour. The breeze was

light, the water tranquil, and the horizon so clear that we could

plainly see every ship; while the fertile shores of the island, the fine

bay of Fort Royal, and a wide expanse of ocean were all distinctly

before the eye.

Either we have been unfortunate in our quarters at this place, or the

accommodations are very inferior to those of St. Pierre; and in

proportion as they are worse they are more extravagant. For a bad

breakfast the charge is a dollar—for a very poor dinner, at the table

d’hôte, two dollars and a half—for supper, two dollars—and for a bed, in

a dirty ill-furnished room, a dollar.

The general hospital, or great depôt of the sick, is established at St.

Pierre; and is a permanent institution, conveniently adapted to its

purpose. It is termed La Charité, and was used by the French, as a

colonial hospital, before we took possession of the island, being under

the superintendence of Le Père Edouard, an aged French physician, who

still resides as a medical practitioner in the town of St. Pierre.

In point of cleanliness, order, and general regulation this hospital

does much credit to the Inspector-general, while it holds out a high and

parental example to all its detachments. The edifice is handsome and

spacious, but its situation is ill-chosen, it being erected close under

a hill, with other buildings near to it, more elevated than itself,

whereby the free circulation of air is much impeded. Upon a piece of

ground, at a short distance in the front, are planted rows of trees,

whose cool shade may in some degree compensate the want of breeze,

although they combine, with the rude precipices of rock behind, to cast

a gloom upon the building, which gives it the solemn aspect of a

sepulchre. Adjoining to the hospital are apartments for the officers and

attendants, and a large public mess-room, together with other offices

and out-buildings, which are necessary to the completion of a permanent,

and well-ordered establishment.

Several other places are fitted up, within the town of St. Pierre, as

occasional wards, to prevent the necessity of over-crowding La Charité,

which, although very spacious, has not been found sufficiently extensive

for the accommodation of the immense numbers thrown into it, during the

late pressure of sickness. Upon a lofty hill, in a very delightful

situation above the town, is established, likewise, a temporary hospital

for convalescents; to which those who are recovering are removed from La

Charité, not only with the benefit of pure country air, and a cool

temperature, but with a further advantage of being separated from the

sick and the dying, and placed where their convalescence may be more

speedily advanced, by taking gentle exercise upon the hills, amidst a

varied and cheerful scenery.

I am happy in being able to inform you that the extreme violence of the

fever has subsided at Martinique, as well as upon the coast of Guiana.

The _seasoning_, as it is commonly termed, has been dreadfully severe;

and it is our best hope that those, who have had the good fortune to

withstand it, have become sufficiently creolised to resist its future

attacks. In this island the disease has proved extremely fatal. It

assumed the same character as in Guiana, but with even additional

malignity. Of the mode of treatment I do not learn any thing very

decisive: bleeding and mercury are not in repute at La Charité; but the

medical officers have been so little stationary, that no precise method

of practice has been regularly pursued. The means employed by one, have

not, perhaps, been deemed the most advisable by the next; so that amidst

the fluctuating opinions upon the subject, each remedy has had its

advocate, and no settled plan of cure has been established.

Great mortality has occurred among the officers of the hospital

department. Of ten physicians belonging to the staff of the Charibbee

Islands, five have died since the month of February last year. You will

perceive from this unhappy fact, that, although it be not the duty of

medical officers to march up to the cannon’s mouth, theirs is not a

service free from danger.

Notes on the West Indies, vol. 2 of 2 · 第 69 / 145 题