Mahaica, Sept. 1796.
A considerable proportion of the officers’ mess, from the Lancaster
barracks, have lately been to dine with Major Prauél, a pleasant
inhabitant of this coast, whose plantation is only a short distance from
the fort. The dinner was plentiful, and handsomely served in a large
cotton logis, which had been prepared for the purpose, and, being
spacious and cool, was far preferable to the house. As we returned in
the evening, we witnessed a very grand and brilliant scene from the
burning of a part of the forest, in order to clear an estate for
cultivation. The trees were consuming with great rapidity, and from the
fire increasing in brightness as the evening closed, it formed a most
splendid and imposing spectacle. The major observed to us that this
improvement of the picture was not the mere effect of viewing it through
the surrounding darkness, it being a fact very generally known in this
country that when any part of the wood is set on fire, it burns with
more rapidity during the night than in the day-time. From the greater
strength of the breeze between the early hours of the morning and
evening, this might seem improbable: but your chemical reading will
furnish you with an explanation of the fact, from the known tendency of
light to preserve oxygen in its gaseous state, and to prevent the
decomposition of the atmospheric air, which is so essential to
combustion. The fire appeared very beautiful, and might be seen to the
distance of many miles. It arrested our attention for a considerable
time, and we contemplated it as an object of grandeur and novelty.
The officers kindly wishing to divert me, in some degree, from the
severe fatigue and anxiety which I have lately undergone, and which,
they insist, will destroy me, have prevailed upon me to accompany a
party of them on a visit to Mynheer Bercheych, one of the most eccentric
and remarkable characters residing upon this coast—an old gentleman, who
by uncommon industry has formed a cotton plantation at the most remote
point of the colony, where he lives, amidst negroes and wild Indians,
almost secluded from the world.
We first rode the distance of some miles, across rich plains of cotton,
to the house of Mr. Graham, situated immediately upon the bank of the
river, about midway between the fort and M. Bercheych’s. Here we found a
party of slaves in waiting, with a large handsome canoe, sent by M.
Bercheych, for the purpose of conveying us the remainder of the journey.
The tide serving, we made no delay, but taking Mr. Graham into the canoe
with us, proceeded forthwith on our route. After an hour and quarter of
hard paddling up the river, we turned into a narrow canal, and were
pulled a considerable distance further, by the slaves, running upon the
bank with a rope fastened to the canoe. This canal leads to the house,
and serves as the boundary of M. Bercheych’s property. It is continued
from a deep savanna at the back of the dwelling, and goes along the
border of the plantation to the river, into which it conveys its waters,
and prevents the inundation of the estate. At one spot we were obliged
to quit the canoe, whilst the slaves dragged it over land, in order to
pass a bridge and a sluice which interrupted our passage. On the other
side of these we resumed our seats, and proceeded towards the house,
which is at the further part of the estate. On seeing us approach, M.
Bercheych walked out to meet us; and, on coming near, he hailed us with
a most reverential salutation. We immediately left the canoe, and walked
with him upon the bank of the canal to the house.
His person and address were strongly impressive, being at once graceful
and dignified, although such as to convey an idea of the rigid precision
of a formal old ’squire. Much had been reported to us of the situation
also of the man, whose eccentricity is become proverbial in the colony.
Our visit, therefore, was one of high curiosity, and we did not return
without experiencing very ample gratification.
M. Bercheych is a remarkably fine man. He is robust and well-built, of
hale countenance and sturdy form, very erect in his carriage, and
possessing uncommon activity, together with great bodily strength, and
vast energy of mind. From his figure and the formality of his address,
he appears to be stern and unbending, but in reality he is affable,
jocose, and communicative, and has nothing of the cold reserve of his
country about him. He met us dressed in coat, waistcoat, and breeches of
nankeen, all cut in the true antique; a very large and almost cardinal
hat, of white beaver; shoes well squared at the extremities, and
fastened with a pair of plain small buckles; a long staff in his hand,
and his knuckles ornamented with deep ruffles. As he walked, his staff
and right hand ruffle made an extensive sweep, describing a wide circle;
his step was firm and decisive, the tail of his coat moved with an
important swing from side to side, in unison with the majestic sway of
his body—his general air was commanding and dignified. On arriving at
the house, he welcomed all the party individually, going through the
ceremony of deliberately taking each by the hand, and bowing to him with
the profoundest politeness: showing at the same time, every mark of
respect and hospitality to the whole body. Wine was immediately set
before us, for our refreshment after the journey, and we took our seats
in a cool romantic little cottage, which, in appearance, and in the
simplicity of its structure, might have vied with the dwelling of a
hermit. Its walls were built with the caudices of the leaves of a fine
species of palm, called Eta, which in substance are lighter than cane.
These were placed together perpendicularly, and resembled a number of
well-arranged columns or small pillars, which were divided and
supported, at intervals, by others of the bamboo, somewhat larger; nor
were any of them concealed or defaced with paint, paper, or stucco, but
all were exposed in the naked simplicity of their original form. The
partitions dividing the rooms were of similar structure; the floors were
of brick; the windows, simple openings in the walls; and the furniture,
of plain wood, unadorned. In point of situation too, this native little
cottage might have been a hermit’s fit abode; for it is placed at the
border of a wild savanna, overhung with heavy and impenetrable forests,
and far removed from the busy tumult of the world.
The estate is at the greatest depth from the sea, being the most distant
that has yet been cultivated upon the Mahaica creek, consequently it is
nearest to the forest, and its naked inhabitants. Deep and unexplored
woods approach almost to the door; before the windows grow cotton bushes
and bananas: a small canal passes by the side of the cottage: and the
only extensive view is over a large savanna, carrying the eye to its
utmost reach, in unbroken range between the rude forests.
Here dwells a man of refined manners, and a most active mind, cultivated
by education, and improved by having lived in polished society. M.
Bercheych is one of the oldest inhabitants of the colony of Demarara,
having resided in this settlement when it consisted of only two
plantations; but since that period he has passed fifteen years in
Holland, where he lived in considerable splendour, spent his time amidst
the best society, and entered into all the gaiety and dissipation of the
Hague. After his return to this coast, he occupied himself in
cultivating a large estate called Gorcum, and, personally, engaged in
all the toil and fatigue of a planter. At that time his great amusement,
and the chief relaxation from his labours consisted in domesticating
fishes, and the wild birds of the forest, in which he succeeded to the
astonishment of all who visited his abode.
By whistling when he fed them, he trained the fishes not barely to rise
to the surface of the water at his call, but even to leap from the pond,
and eat out of his hand: and from taking the eggs of the birds and
breeding up their young, or taking the young, and breeding them in the
house, then suffering them to hop out and in at pleasure, and to fly to
the woods as soon as they were able, he taught them to return freely for
food; in which visits they were sometimes accompanied by others, who
came to partake of their fare; and thus by constant feeding and
attention, he, at length, brought many of them to be so tame that they
would fly in at the window of his room, and sit upon pegs, fixed up for
the purpose, to warble a song: or, at his time of dinner, they would
come in, and perch upon his head or his shoulder to participate in his
meal.
You will grieve to hear that after he had built the house, cultivated
the fields, and ornamented the garden—after he had trained the fishes
into acquaintances, and taught the birds to be his companions—in short,
after he had adorned this delightful residence, and fashioned it to his
taste, he was compelled, by hard necessity, to dispose of the
heart-loved abode which his hands had formed, in order to defray the
incumbrances its improvements had created.
Being deprived of his favorite Gorcum, his active mind, ever fertile in
resources, sought new employment in the cultivation of the rude spot
which forms his present home, and which is now so improved as to yield a
large produce in cotton. Until very recently he lived at a different
part of the estate, where he had erected a house, and near to it formed
a garden which yielded a plentiful supply of choice fruits and
vegetables; but from the plantation becoming extensive, he finds it
expedient to establish his residence at a more central part of it: he
has therefore built this romantic cottage, to serve as a temporary home,
from whence he may conveniently superintend the erection of a more
spacious, and more permanent abode, at a spot already marked out for
that purpose.
Of his mode of living the shortness of our visit allowed us but little
opportunity to judge. If not sumptuous, it was at least liberal, for his
garden and estate afford a very ample store of plain and wholesome
provisions. His flocks and herds were numerous, and his plantation
exhibited a more abundant stock of cows, sheep, and poultry, than was
common at other estates. For dinner he gave us both mutton and beef,
each very excellent of its kind. The dessert consisted of eggs and some
uncommonly fine figs. Madeira wine was our drink. This and water form
the whole list of liqueurs at the home of the hospitable Bercheych.
Neither rum, brandy, Hollands, nor any other kind of spirit does he ever
use: beer is not seen at his table: punch he never drinks, and he
remarked that he had, therefore, no occasion for sugar, which is
accordingly unknown in his family as an article of consumption. Not
being in the habit of using any, he does not buy it, nor is a grain of
it to be found in his house. But what will be deemed still more strange,
is that, although a Dutchman, he never smokes; nor has under his roof
either pipes or tobacco.
We were served only by females of colour, of whom M. Bercheych has the
finest assemblage I have yet seen. We learned that it was one of the
peculiarities of our host not to suffer a male to inhabit his house. His
attendants are all of the feminine gender, and, from their hands, both
himself and his guests receive the offerings of his bounty. His habits
are social: but men are only admitted as visitors. In other respects
also he differs from those lonely beings to whom, from its retirement
and simplicity, his neat little cell might have belonged. He is not a
solitary recluse, nor does he deny himself the enjoyments of life. For
the beau sexe he has strong attachments, and he does not hold it needful
to forego his gratifications. His cottage is a rich seraglio—himself the
sultan. A more choice collection of half-naked belles it were difficult
to meet with. They consist of Indians, negroes, mulattoes, and a finely
formed race between the inhabitants of the woods and the blacks. One of
the mulattoes, from her dress and ornaments, appeared to be the reigning
sultana of the day. The number of females about the cottage was sixteen
or seventeen, all well selected, and the most beautiful of their race.
Six or seven of them are of an age to acknowledge the kind smiles of
their lord; the others are advancing towards womanhood, in succession,
so that each in her turn will probably become the favorite slave of
their majestic seignor. A Turkish sultan, gleaning from his best
dominions, might not boast of more inviting forms, or of more obedient
and devoted slaves than these of the stately Bercheych; who has all the
advantage of seeing the virgins of his harem grow up under his own eye,
knowing them to be his sole and absolute property—not merely the slaves
of his passions, but also of his caprice and his fortune.
Among the female property of M. Bercheych we saw an uncommonly handsome
family of negroes, consisting of three generations, very strongly
resembling each other in feature, from the grand-daughter of three years
old, to the grandmother upwards of sixty. They were all well formed, and
in face very unlike the common race of negroes, having neither the thick
lip, the large mouth, nor the wide flat nose. Their lineaments were
regular, their noses prominent, and slightly aquiline, and their teeth
and eyes peculiarly fine. The old woman was strong and healthy, of
active upright figure, and without any marks of advanced age. The
daughter was the cottage-cook, a tall clean-looking woman about thirty
years old, whose countenance and person were strikingly handsome. Four
of the grand-daughters were present—all pretty, and the very images of
the mother and grandmother: the eldest was about sixteen years of age,
and both in face and form by far the loveliest nymph we had seen of her
colour—so beautiful indeed as to dispute the palm of the seraglio. No
doubt the good old grandmother will have early occasion to witness the
further diffusion of her semblance in the fourth generation. The whole
family were peculiarly neat in their persons, and highly respectful in
their behaviour towards others. Although slaves, they were as
respectable, and observed as much of propriety and decorum in their
conduct, as the best regulated domestics of Europe: they did honor to
the excellent regulations and discipline of their owner.
The old gentleman is strict and imperative towards his slaves, but his
government is so tempered with kindness and humanity, that he is obeyed
more from esteem, than from fear or compulsion. In the observances of
politeness Mynheer Bercheych descends to the correctest minutiæ. From
his appearance, his manners, address, and stately carriage, he might
pass for an old English baron. The formal system of bowing, he supports
with the tenacity of a Dutchman. Not a true-born son of all-bowing
hat-lifting Leyden, could be more precisely polite. He requires and
returns a ceremonious salutation every time that he is met by any of his
slaves; not one of whom dares to go by him without being uncovered. A
negro belonging to another planter attempted to pass him, without
offering the necessary salute; he immediately gave him a stripe with his
cane, observing that if he did not know good manners he must be taught;
then turning to us, he said, “Gentlemen, if the lowest slave bow to me,
I take off my own hat in return, because I would not suffer a negro to
show more of politeness and good manners than myself; but if he walk by
me without proper observance, I always deem it right to instruct him
that respect is due to the whites.”
The afternoon glided away very pleasantly, the conversation being
enlivened by the sprightliness and vivacity of our host, who entertained
us with a fund of anecdote regarding a variety of subjects, such as the
negroes and Indians—his own situation and pursuits—his talents in
shooting, as well with the common arrow, and the poisoned arrow, as with
the gun and the pistol—his industry in cultivating new land—his
perseverance in domesticating birds and fishes—the treatment of his
slaves—his conduct respecting his son, and many other topics. We found
him a well-bred intelligent man, and were pleased to remark, that
although he lives in a manner secluded from the world, amidst wild men
and slaves, and uncultured beings of various crosses and complexions,
giving loose to his favorite passion, and indulging his appetites in all
their native freedom, he still preserves the dignity of a gentleman, and
displays all the superiority of a well-educated and enlightened mind.
From his manners, and his years, he is highly respectable, as also from
his talents, and unwearied industry. The first impression, arising from
his figure and address, is that of a stern justice of the peace, or a
rigid country esquire of the old English school: but the reserve of his
exterior is soon removed by the ease and affability of his conversation.
He is particularly well versed in the history and policy of these
settlements, and we derived much instruction and amusement from his
remarks. Indeed we found him altogether so interesting as to wish the
hours we spent in his society could have been lengthened into days, and
were grieved when the moment arrived for taking our departure.
Nothing could exceed the neatness of arrangement which displayed itself
about his little cottage home. Plainness and simplicity prevailed
throughout, but a palace could not be cleaner, nor maintained in greater
order. A small dairy, of exquisite contrivance, was most delicately
fitted up, and appeared delightfully fresh and cool; a little
poultry-yard, enclosed with a fancy paling, was a perfect model of
taste; and every thing around exhibited some mark of excellence—some
testimony of having been improved by the ingenious hand of its
industrious and eccentric owner.
Surrounding the cottage is cut a deep wet fosse, which forms a
protecting barrier, and prevents any person from approaching his
residence, except by passing over a narrow plank placed across the
ditch, directly in front of the dwelling; and so extremely rigid is he
in his exclusion of male-beings, that not even a negro is allowed to
cross this plank without expressly obtaining his leave. In the plan of
the new house which he intends to erect, is an encircling ditch or moat
of fourteen or sixteen feet wide, which he expects will be a complete
defence to his retired seraglio.
From living so much among the Indians M. Bercheych is well acquainted
with their manners and customs, and feels himself quite at home amidst
them. He amused us by shooting with the bow and arrow, and we were
surprised to observe with what accuracy he was able to hit his mark. He
very kindly presented me with some specimens in natural history; also
some of the simple productions of Indian manufacture, and very
obligingly offered to procure me a model of their dwellings, made by the
Bucks.
Delighted with the cottage, and still more interested with the man, we
let the evening close in upon our reluctant departure, and had to avail
ourselves of the moon, as a guide in our return down the river. We
walked some distance at the side of the canal before we came to the
canoe; and were accompanied to the place of embarkation by M. Bercheych,
followed by two of his fine cottage nymphs, who were directed to attend
with some wine-glasses and two bottles of Madeira. One of these was to
be emptied to the success of the new home, on reaching the place, where
it was to be erected: the other was to supply the parting glass on our
stepping into the canoe. These ceremonies were accordingly observed in
due form, and after seeing us safely seated and afloat, the friendly
Bercheych bade us cordially good night, earnestly intreating us soon to
repeat our visit. He then bowed to us as profoundly as on our arrival,
and placing himself between his two tender supporters, trod back his
path in sultanic step, to his sequestered retreat.
The tide being again in our favor, the slaves paddled us with great
speed down the river as far as Mr. Graham’s; where, quitting the canoe,
the major and myself took our chaise, and the other gentlemen their
horses, and we finished this delightful day by a pleasant moonlight ride
across the cotton fields to our quarters.