THE SPANISH SERIES
TOLEDO
THE SPANISH SERIES
_EDITED BY ALBERT F. CALVERT_
GOYA
TOLEDO
MADRID
SEVILLE
MURILLO
CORDOVA
VELAZQUEZ
THE PRADO
THE ESCORIAL
ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN
GRANADA AND ALHAMBRA
SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR
LEON, BURGOS & SALAMANCA
VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA,
ZAMORA, AVILA & ZARAGOZA
TOLEDO
AN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE
ACCOUNT OF
THE “CITY OF GENERATIONS,”
BY ALBERT F. CALVERT, WITH
OVER 500 ILLUSTRATIONS
LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMVII
Printed by BALLANTYNE & CO. LIMITED
Tavistock Street, London
TO
S.A. INFANTA MARIA TERESA
IN WHOSE SYMPATHY
THE ANCIENT GRANDEUR IS LINKED WITH
THE FUTURE GREATNESS OF SPAIN
THIS VOLUME
WITH AN ASSURANCE OF SINCERE ESTEEM
IS DEDICATED
PREFACE
The author would, in the ordinary way, be hard put to it to frame a
reasonable apology for compiling a new volume on the subject of the
ancient and royal city of Toledo. Artists have reproduced its wonder of
imposing and picturesque detail; archæologists have explored its many
monuments; historians have discovered in its archives a record which,
for many centuries, represents the log-book of Spain. There is no
secret, apart from the impenetrable mystery of its origin, which has not
been revealed; its chronicle is a well-thumbed volume. The beginnings of
Spanish history go no further back than the earliest references we have
to the natural stronghold founded on the seven rocks on the banks of the
Tagus, and Spanish tradition claims for the citadel an antiquity coeval
with the sun and stars. Both the history and the legends have been
transcribed in many languages, yet, in a series which is intended to
embrace all Spain in its compendious design, the inclusion of the
twice-told tale of the “city of generations” carries with it an
unquestionable justification.
The ambition of the author has not been to throw fresh light on a
well-worn subject, nor to supplement the work of earlier and more
erudite writers with new facts or theories, but simply, as in the case
of the earlier volumes in this series, to equip the illustrations with a
brief, explanatory text. It would be futile to attempt to even outline
the story of Toledo in some hundred and fifty pages of letterpress, but
I hope it may be found that in this limited space sufficient detail has
been given to convey to the reader a general idea of the changing
fortunes and unchanging character of the city, which Padilla has
described as “the crown of Spain, the light of the world, free from the
time of the mighty Goths.”
The impression of grandeur and melancholy, of strength and silence,
which the traveller receives from a visit to the one-time capital of the
Peninsula, cannot be suggested by the written word, but it may be that
the illustrations will recall, if they do not suggest, the feeling which
the city inspires. Toledo is mediæval in its architecture and its
atmosphere. The Moorish occupation has left no more than a scratch upon
its Gothic character; the spirit of modernity has been defied by its
virile antiquity. But the Moslem remains have been made a feature of the
illustrations, and, as in the volumes devoted to Seville, Cordova, and
Granada in this series, the intricacies of Arabian decoration have been
extensively reproduced.
Many of the plates are included here by the courtesy of Messrs.
Alguacil, Rafael Garzon, Hauser and Menet, and Moreno, and to these
gentlemen I tender my sincere thanks for the permission accorded me to
reproduce them. I have also to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mr. E. B.
d’Auvergne for the assistance rendered by him in the compilation, and to
Messrs. Martin and Gamoneda for their kindness in allowing me to make
use of the matter and illustrations contained in the volume on _Toledo_
which they have published in the new series of the _Monumentos
Arquitectónicos de España_.
I venture to hope that no apology is needed for including the chapter on
El Greco, and the selection of his pictures, which appear in this
volume. A separate book, devoted entirely to this subject, which will be
issued in this series, cannot be ready for some time, and as so little
has been written about Domeniko Theotokopouli, and so few of his
pictures have been reproduced, I have decided to incorporate these brief
notes concerning the Cretan painter, whose association with Toledo
extended over a period of nearly forty years.
A. F. C.
“ROYSTON,”
SWISS COTTAGE,
N.W.
CONTENTS
PAGE
THE CHILDHOOD OF THE CITY 1
THE CITY UNDER THE VISIGOTHS 8
TOLEDO UNDER THE MOOR 29
TOLEDO THE CAPITAL OF CASTILE 59
BUILDINGS OF THE CASTILIAN PERIOD 83
THE CATHEDRAL 101
THE DECLINE OF THE CITY 130
EL GRECO 147
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
TITLE PLATE
Toledo. (_Specially drawn for The Spanish Series_) 1
General View of Toledo from the South-east 2
View of Toledo from the South-east 3
General View of Toledo 4
View of Toledo from the Campo del Rey 5
General View of Toledo 6
State of the Ruins of the Circo Maximo in the Year
1848, according to the “Album Artistico” 7
The River Tagus 8
Bridge of Alcantara 9
Perspective of St. Martin’s Bridge and the Direction
of the Fortified Lines 10
Perspective View of the Site of the Aqueduct 11
Environs of Toledo 12
Plaza de Zocodover 13
The Town Hall 14
The Market-place 15
The Market-place 16
A Street in Toledo 17
A Street in Toledo 18
A Street in Toledo 19
A Street in Toledo 20
A Street in Toledo 21
A Street in Toledo 22
A Street in Toledo 23
A Street in Toledo 24
Visagra Gate 25
A Street in Toledo 26
A Street in Toledo 27
Bridge of Alcantara 28
Alcantara Gate 29
Alcantara Portal and Bridge 29
Exterior of the Northern City Walls 30
Fortifications of the old Bridge of Boats, replaced by
the Bridge of St. Martin 31
Remains of the City Walls of “Al-Hizém,” from the
Gate of the Doce Cantos to the Plaza de Armas of
the Bridge of Alcantara 32
Remains of the City Walls, south-west, rebuilt at the
Time of the Reconquest 33
Remains of the Roman Ramparts of the first Enclosure
of the City 34
Remains of the Roman Ramparts of the first Enclosure
of the City. (Plaza de Armas of the Bridge of
Alcantara) 35
Visigoth Capital transformed into a Fountain Basin.
(No. 9, Callejon de la Lamparilla) 35
Principal Entrance to the House of the Baths of Aben-Ya-Yix
Bajada al Colegio del Infantes 36
Sepulchral Arch of the Infante don Fernando Perez
in the Belen Chapel in the Convent of the Comendadora
de Santiago 36
Ruins of Polan Castle. Fourteenth Century 37
Guadamar Castle 38
Remains of the Roman Ramparts of the first Enclosure
of the City 39
The Exterior Walls 40
Remains of the Fortifications in the Jewish Suburb 40
Gate of the “Almofala” (Bib-al-Mojadha) rebuilt in
the Fourteenth Century 41
“The Abbot’s Tower” in the Northern Walls 41
Ruins of the Aquaria Tower, commonly called “Horno
del Vidrio” 42
Remains of the Aqueduct (left bank of the river) 43
Remains of the Aqueduct (right bank of the river) 43
Remains of the Roman Construction in the Tower of
the Plaza de Armas of the Bridge of Alcantara 44
Bridge of Alcantara 45
East Side of the Bridge of Alcantara 46
Posterior Façade of the defensive Tower of the Bridge
of Alcantara 47
Defensive Tower of the Bridge of Alcantara. Anterior
Façade 48
Alcantara Gate 49
Commemorative Inscription in the Avenue of the
Defensive Tower of the Bridge of Alcantara 50
Coat-of-Arms of the Catholic Sovereigns in front of
the Defensive Tower of the Bridge of Alcantara 51
“The Khalif’s Capitals” at No. 13 Calle del Coliseo 51
Perspective of the Bridge of Alcantara 52
St. Martin’s Bridge 53
St. Martin’s Bridge 54
Façade of Santa Cruz 54
Defensive Towers at the Entrance of St. Martin’s
Bridge and the Town 55
Restored Posterior Façade of the Arch de La Sangre 55
Remains of the Aqueduct (right bank) 56
East Side of St. Martin’s Bridge 57
Defensive Tower of St. Martin’s Bridge. Façade seen
from the Bridge 58
Defensive Tower of St. Martin’s Bridge. Façade seen
from the Highway 58
Malbardón Gate. Eleventh Century 59
Visagra Gate 60
Upper Part of the Visagra Gate. Built in 1550 61
Tower in the City Walls of “The Suburb of San Isidoro,”
near the new Visagra Gate 62
Hydraulic Machine and Remains of the Walls in the
Quarter of the Curtidores, near the River 63
Walls of the Suburb of San Isidore 63
Ancient Visagra Gate 64
Ancient Visagra Gate. The Side which joins the Wall
and the side Defensive Tower 65
Ancient Visagra Gate. Defensive and Side Tower 66
Ancient Visagra Gate. Remains of the Eastern Façade 67
Detail of the Principal Façade of the old Visagra Gate 68
Interior of the old Visagra Gate 68
Ancient Visagra Gate 69
The Tower called “Puerta Baja de la Herreria,” now
“Gate of the Sun” 70
Castle of San Servando 71
Castle of San Servando. Ancient Entrance in the West
Façade 72
Castle of San Servando. South-east Angle 72
Door of the Castle in San Servando 73
Gate of Valmadron 74
Gate of Cambrón 75
Los Baños de Florinda de Cava 76
Entrance to Los Baños 77
Ruins of the Tower called “Los Baños de Florinda
de Cava” 78
Details of the Convent of Santa Fe. Eleventh Century 79
West Portal in the old Hermitage, now the Inn of Santa
Ana, on the Sisla road 80
Altar-piece of San Justo 81
Detail of the Church of San Justo. Fifteenth Century 82
Detail of the Chapel of Santos Justo and Pastor 83
Effigies of Juan Guas, architect of San Juan de Los
Reyes, and of his son. Chapel of Christ at the
Column, in the Parish Church of San Justo 84
Effigies of Mari Alvares, wife of Juan Guas, and of her
Daughter. Chapel of Christ at the Column, in
the Parish Church of San Justo 85
Mosque of the Tornerias. Exterior of the South Façade,
South-west Angle 86
Interior of the Mosque de las Tornerias 87
Arch of the “Kibláh” in the Mosque de las Tornerias 88
Mosque of the Tornerias. Trefoil Arched Window 89
Mosque of the Tornerias. Horse-shoe Window 89
Mosque of the Tornerias. Arched Window 90
Mosque of the Tornerias. Rectangular Window 90
Mosque de las Tornerias 91
Mosque of the Tornerias, built over Roman Remains 92
Supposed Elevation of the Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm 93
Supposed Plan of the Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm 94
Actual Situation of the North-east Façade of the
Ancient Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm, a Transept
and _Mudejar_ Apsis of the Hermitage of Santo
Cristo de la Luz 95
The Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm, Horse-shoe Arch and
Remains of the Dado and Little Arches and Windows
in the North-east Façade (right side) 96
The Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm, Horse-shoe Arch and
Remains of the Dado of Little Arches and Windows
in the North-east Façade (left side) 97
Principal Nave in the Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm 98
Arch in the Southern Interior of the Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm 99
Actual Entrance to the Castle 99
Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm. Arch in the Interior Wall,
South-west Angle 100
Detail of the North-west Façade of the Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm 100
Bib-al-Mardóm. “Arch of the Cross,” Interior Façade 101
Bib-al-Mardóm. “Arch of the Cross,” Exterior Façade 101
Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm 102
North-west Façade of the Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm
(Hermitage of Santo Cristo de la Luz), discovered
in February 1899 103
The Epigraphic Medallion on the North-west Façade of
the Mosque of Bib-al-Mardóm (Hermitage of
Santo Cristo de la Luz), rebuilt in the year 370
after the Hegira (A.D. 980) 104
Visigoth Capital in the old Moorish Parish Church of San
Sebastian 105
Visigoth Base which serves as a Capital in the old
Moorish Parish Church of San Sebastian 105
Santo Cristo de la Luz 106
The Hermitage of Santo Cristo de la Luz 107
Wall-Paintings of Santo Cristo de la Luz 108
Church of Santo Cristo de la Luz 109
Wall-Paintings of Santo Cristo de la Luz 110
Ancient Mosque, now the Hermitage of Santo Cristo
de la Luz 111
Exterior of the Hermitage of Santo Cristo de la Luz,
and Towers of various Churches 112
Detail of the Transito (Synagogue), built in 1360 at the
expense of Samuel Levi 113
Details of the Interior Decoration of the Church of the
Transito (Ancient Synagogue) 114
Details of the Interior Decoration of the Church of the
Transito (Ancient Synagogue) 115
Details of the Transito (Synagogue) 116
Details of the Transito (Synagogue) 117
Details of the Transito (Synagogue) 118
Entrance Arch in the Building called Taller Del Moro 119
Detail of Decoration in the Moorish Workshop 120
Details of the Palace of the Ayalas 121
Details of the Palace of the Ayalas 122
Exterior of the Chapel of Santo Cristo de la Vega 123
Door and Exterior of Santa Maria la Blanca 124
Sections and Details of the Ancient Synagogue, now the
Church of Santa Maria la Blanca 125
Part of the Longitudinal Section of the Ancient Synagogue,
now the Church of Santa Maria la Blanca 126
Interior of Santa Maria la Blanca 127
Interior of Santa Maria la Blanca 128
Interior of Santa Maria la Blanca 129
Cárcel de Santa Hermandad 130
A Gothic Doorway 131
A Doorway 132
St. Michael’s Tower. Fourteenth Century 133
House of the Toledos 134
Details of a Courtyard 135
Details of a Courtyard 136
Details of a Courtyard 137
Details of a Courtyard 138
Details of a Courtyard 139
The Fountain of Calerahigo 140
Arab Details 141
Visigoth Crowns and Crosses of Guarrazar 142
Visigoth Crowns and Crosses of Guarrazar 143
Visigoth Crowns and Crosses found at Toledo and now
in the Royal Armoury at Madrid 144
San Pedro Martin 145
Calle de Santo Tomé 145
Alcazar Royal Palace. Reproduction of the Engraving
made in 1566 for Braun’s “Civitates Orbi Terrarum” 146
Perspective of the Alcazar in 1845. East and North
Façades. Reproduction of an Engraving in the
Work “Toledo Pintoresca” 147
The Alcazar. Taken from the Plaza de Zocodover 148
South Façade of the Alcazar 149
The Alcazar. West Façade after the latest Restoration 150
The Alcazar 151
Alcazar. Principal Façade on the North 152
The Alcazar. East Façade, after the latest Restoration 153
General View of the Alcazar 154
The Alcazar. The Principal Staircase 155
The Alcazar. Principal North Portal 156
The Alcazar. Court and Plan 157
Court of the Alcazar 158
Court in the Alcazar. After the latest Restoration 159
The Alcazar. Plan and Details. North Façade 160
Details of the North Façade of the Alcazar 161
Door of the Hall of the House of the Mesa (the Table) 162
Details of the House of the Mesa 163
Details of the House of the Mesa 164
Details of the House of the Mesa 165
Details of the Hall of the House of the Mesa 166
Details of the Hall of the House of the Mesa 167
Details of the Hall of the House of the Mesa 168
Details of the House of the Mesa 169
Doorway of the College of the Infantes. Sixteenth
Century 170
Doorway of the Palace of the Martinez 171
Roman Tower of San Juan de los Reyes 172
Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes 172
Exterior of San Juan de los Reyes 173
San Juan de los Reyes 174
Plan of the Church and Processional Cloister of San
Juan de los Reyes 175
Doorway in San Juan de los Reyes 176
Gothic Doorway in San Juan de los Reyes 177
Exterior of the Arch of San Juan de los Reyes 178
Interior of San Juan de los Reyes 179
Interior of San Juan de los Reyes 180
Interior of San Juan de los Reyes 181
Longitudinal Section of the Church of San Juan de los
Reyes 182
Interior, San Juan de los Reyes 183
Retablo, San Juan de los Reyes 183
Gallery in San Juan de los Reyes 184
Gallery in San Juan de los Reyes 185
Details of San Juan de los Reyes 186
Details of Gallery in San Juan de los Reyes 187
Details of San Juan de los Reyes 188
San Juan de los Reyes. Wall in the Presbytery 189
Interior of San Juan de los Reyes 190
Interior of San Juan de los Reyes 191
Interior of San Juan de los Reyes 192
San Juan de los Reyes. Decoration in the Transverse
Nave 193
San Juan de los Reyes. Details of the Arms of Isabella
the Catholic 194
Details of the Transept of the Church of San Juan de
los Reyes 195
San Juan de los Reyes. Interior 196
A Dome in San Juan de los Reyes 197
Remains of Windows of San Juan de los Reyes 198
Details of the Cross-Aisle in the Church of San Juan
de los Reyes 199
Altar of San Juan de los Reyes 200
Altar of San Juan de los Reyes 200
Details of the Altar-piece in San Juan de los Reyes 201
Copy of the original Drawing of the Arch and Cross-Aisle
of San Juan de los Reyes 202
Longitudinal Section of the Cloister of San Juan de los
Reyes 203
Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes 204
San Juan de los Reyes. The Cloisters 205
Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes 206
Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes 207
Details of the Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes 208
Compartment of the Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes 209
San Juan de los Reyes. Details of the Cloisters 210
Details of the Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes 211
San Juan de los Reyes. Details of the Cloisters 212
San Juan de los Reyes. Details of the Cloisters 213
San Juan de los Reyes. Details of the Cloisters 214
San Juan de los Reyes. Details of the Cloisters 215
Church of San Juan de los Reyes. Courtyard 216
Court in San Juan de los Reyes 217
Doorway of the Museum of San Juan de los Reyes 218
San Juan de los Reyes. Details above Door of Museum 219
Palace of Don Pedro the Cruel 220
Details of the Palace of Don Pedro the Cruel 221
Façade of the Palace of Don Pedro the Cruel 222
Doorway of the Palace of Don Pedro the Cruel 223
Doorway of the Palace of Don Pedro the Cruel 224
The Cathedral 225
General View of the Cathedral 226
The Cathedral 227
Section of the Cathedral 228
Longitudinal Section of the Cathedral 229
Transverse Section of the Cathedral 230
Principal Façade of the Cathedral and Tower 231
The Cathedral. Detail of the Exterior 232
The Cathedral. Portal of the Principal Façade 233
The Cathedral. Principal Gate 234
The Cathedral. The Gate of the Lions 235
The Cathedral. Porch of the Principal Façade 236
The Cathedral. The Lion Door 237
The Cathedral. The Lion Door 237
Door of the Cathedral 238
The Cathedral. Door of the Lost Child 239
The Cathedral. Details of the Puerta de la Feria 240
The Cathedral. Gate of the Conception 241
The Cathedral. Ornamental Details of the Gates 242
The Cathedral. Central Nave 243
The Cathedral. Tomb of Alonso de Carrillo 243
The Cathedral. General View of the Interior 244
The Cathedral. General View of the Interior 245
The Cathedral. Interior 246
The Cathedral. Interior 247
Windows in the Principal Nave of the Cathedral 248
The Cathedral. Grating of the Principal Chapel.
Sixteenth Century 249
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Principal Chapel 250
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Principal Chapel 251
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Principal Chapel 252
The Cathedral. Details of the Principal Chapel 253
The Cathedral. Details of the Principal Chapel 254
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Principal Chapel 255
The Cathedral. Details of the Principal Chapel 256
The Cathedral. Details of the Principal Chapel 257
The Cathedral. Altar-piece of the Principal Chapel 258
The Cathedral. Detail of the Altar-piece of the Principal
Chapel 259
The Cathedral. Exterior of the High Altar 260
The Cathedral. Exterior of the High Altar 261
The Cathedral. Exterior of the High Altar 262
The Cathedral. Details of the Altar-piece 263
The Cathedral. Frontal of the High Altar. Fifteenth
Century 264
The Cathedral. Frontal of the High Altar. Fifteenth
Century 265
The Cathedral. Detail of the Frontal of the High
Altar 266
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Principal Chapel 267
The Cathedral. Sepulchre of Cardinal Mendoza in the
Principal Chapel 268
The Cathedral. Dome of the Principal Chapel 269
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Choir 270
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Choir 271
The Cathedral. Details of the Exterior of the Choir 272
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Choir 273
The Cathedral. Choir Stalls 274
The Cathedral. Choir Stalls 275
The Cathedral. Choir Stalls 276
The Cathedral. Details of the Choir Stalls, representing
the Re-conquest of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 277
The Cathedral. Interior of the Choir 278
The Cathedral. Details of the Choir 279
The Cathedral. Details of the Choir 280
The Cathedral. The Archbishop’s Throne, representing
the Transfiguration. By Berruguete 281
The Cathedral. Virgin of the Laneros 282
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 283
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 284
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 285
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 286
The Cathedral. Detail of Choir Stalls. The Capture
of Alhama by Ferdinand and Isabella, 1482. Re-conquest
of Granada 287
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 288
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 289
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 290
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 291
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 292
The Cathedral. Detail of the Choir Stalls. Re-conquest
of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella 293
The Cathedral. Upper part of the Choir Stalls, carved
by Berruguete and Borgoña. Sixteenth Century 294
The Cathedral. Upper part of the Choir Stalls, carved
by Berruguete and Borgoña. Sixteenth Century 295
The Cathedral. Upper part of the Choir Stalls, carved
by Berruguete and Borgoña. Sixteenth Century 296
The Cathedral. Upper part of the Choir Stalls, carved
by Berruguete and Borgoña. Sixteenth Century 297
The Cathedral. Upper part of the Choir Stalls, carved
by Berruguete and Borgoña. Sixteenth Century 298
The Cathedral. Upper part of the Choir Stalls, carved
by Berruguete and Borgoña. Sixteenth Century 299
The Cathedral. Upper part of the Choir Stalls, carved
by Berruguete and Borgoña. Sixteenth Century 300
The Cathedral. Masonry in the Choir 301
The Cathedral. Exterior of the Presbytery 302
The Cathedral. Interior of the Chapel of the New
Kings with the Sepulchres of Don Henry the
Bastard and his Wife 303
The Cathedral. Sepulchres of Don Henry the Bastard
and his Wife in the Chapel of the New Kings 304
The Cathedral. Sepulchre of Cardinal Tavera in the
Chapel of the New Kings 305
The Cathedral. Sepulchre of Don Juan I. in the Chapel
of the New Kings 306
The Cathedral. Sepulchre of Doña Leonor, Wife of Don
Juan I., in the Chapel of the New Kings 307
The Cathedral. Chapel of the Descent of the Virgin 308
The Cathedral. Muzarabic Chapel 309
The Cathedral. Details of the Chapel of the Virgen
de la Antigua 310
The Cathedral. Chapel of the Virgen de la Antigua.
Fourteenth Century 311
The Cathedral. Doorway of the Chapel of the Canons 312
Altar-piece of Santa Isabel 313
Altar-piece of Santa Catalina 313
Altar-piece of Santa Catalina 314
Altar-piece of Santa Catalina 315
Altar-piece of Santa Catalina 316
Chapel of Santa Catalina. Founded by the Counts of
Cedillo 317
The Cathedral. Chapel of Santiago, containing the
Sepulchres of Don Alvaro de Luna and that of his
Wife Doña Juana. Fifteenth Century 318
The Cathedral. Sepulchre of Don Juan de Zerezuela in
the Chapel of Santiago. Fifteenth Century 319
Cupola of the Chapel “de los Reyes Nuevos” in the
Cathedral 320
Cupola of the “Capilla de Santiago,” called “De Don
Alvaro de Luna” in the Cathedral 320
The Cathedral. Sepulchre of Don Gil Carrillo de Albornoz
in the Chapel of San Ildefonso 321
The Cathedral. Sepulchre of Gil de Albornoz in the
Chapel of San Ildefonso 322
The Cathedral. Entrance to the Chapter Room. Sixteenth
Century 323
The Cathedral. Chapter Room 324
The Cathedral. Various Portraits of Cardinals 325
The Cathedral. Various Portraits of Cardinals 326
The Cathedral. Details in the Chapter Room 327
The Cathedral. Chapter Room 328
The Cathedral. Doorway of the Chapter Room 329
The Cathedral. Detail of a Doorway in the Chapter
Room 330
The Cathedral. Cupboard made by Gregorio Pardo
(1549-1551), for the Antechamber of the Chapter
House 331
Cupboard in the Cathedral 332
The Cathedral. A Rich and Gossamer-carved Ceiling
in the Chapter Hall. Sixteenth Century 333
The Cathedral. Ceiling in the Chapter Hall 334
The Cathedral. A Ceiling in the Ante-room 335
The Cathedral Cloisters 336
The Cathedral Cloisters 337
Presentation Portal in the Cloister of the Cathedral 338
Exterior, by the Cloisters of the Chapel, of the Place of
Sepulchre built by Henry II. for his Tomb 339
The Cathedral. Picture by Bayeu in the Cloisters 340
Portal of St. Catherine in the Cloister of the Cathedral 341
The Cathedral. Details of the Gate of the Presentation
in the Cloister 342
The Cathedral. Reliquary of San Sebastian in the
Octavo 343
The Cathedral. Detail of the Reliquary of San Sebastian
in the Octavo 344
The Cathedral. A Byzantine Reliquary 345
Sepulchres in the Cathedral 346
Sculpture in the Cathedral 347
The Cathedral. Bronze Lectern and Books of the
Holy Office 348
The Cathedral. A Bronze Pulpit 349
The Cathedral. Detail of a Pulpit 350
Pulpit in the Cathedral 351
Cathedral Bells which Ring when the Host is Elevated 352
The Cathedral. Statue of Don Juan II. Sixteenth
Century 353
The Cathedral. St. Francis of Assisi 354
The Cathedral. A Picture by Bayeu 355
Details in the Cathedral 356
The Cathedral. Cover of a Missal 357
The Cathedral. Silver Salver, “The Abduction of the
Sabine Women,” by Benvenuto Cellini 358
The Cathedral. Chalice and Paten 359
The Cathedral. A Ship that belonged to Queen Juana
la Loca 360
Monstrance in the Cathedral 361
The Cathedral. Sword of Alfonso VI. 362
The Cathedral. The Adoration of the Kings (silk) 363
The Cathedral. The Veil of Santa Leocadia (silk) 364
The Cathedral. The Assumption (silk) 365
The Cathedral. The Beheading of San Eugenio (silk) 366
Kufic Entablature in the Cathedral 367
The Cathedral. A Dalmatic embroidered in Gold and
Silk. Sixteenth Century 368
The Cathedral. A Chasuble embroidered in Gold and
Silk. Sixteenth Century 369
The Cathedral. Details of the Puerta del Reloj 370
The Cathedral. Details of the Puerta del Reloj 371
The Cathedral. Details of the Puerta del Reloj 372
The Cathedral. Details of the Puerta del Reloj 373
Effigies of Juan Guas (architect of San Juan de los
Reyes), his Wife, and Children 374
Sculpture in San Andrés 375
Banner of the Salado 376
St. Peter Natano and St. Theresa sculptured in Wood 377
Plan of the Santa Iglesia Primada 378
Santa Isabel. Side Altar-piece 379
Santa Isabel. Detail of an Altar-piece 380
Parish Church of Santiago 381
Exterior of Santiago del Arrabal. Thirteenth Century 382
Pulpit in the Church of Santiago del Arrabal, from
which San Vicente de Ferrer preached against the
Jews 383
Parochial Church of Santiago del Arrabal 384
Church of San Tomé 385
Detail of an Altar-piece in the Church of the Trinity 386
Sepulchres in the Church of St. Peter the Martyr 387
Details of a Sepulchre in the Church of St. Peter the
Martyr 388
Church of St. Peter the Martyr. Statue of a Kneeling
Canon 389
Chapel in San Juan de la Penitencia 390
Chapel in San Juan de la Penitencia 391
Details of San Juan de la Penitencia 392
Sepulchre in San Juan de la Penitencia 393
Sepulchre in San Juan de la Penitencia 394
Detail of the Convent of San Juan de la Penitencia 395
Details of the Convent of San Juan de la Penitencia 396
Convent of Santo Domingo 397
Convent of Santo Domingo 398
Convent of Santo Domingo 399
Ancient Sepulchre in the Convent of Santo Domingo 400
Santo Domingo el Real. Principal Altar-piece 401
Doorway of the Convent of San Antonio 402
Porch of the Church and Convent of San Clemente 403
Porch of the Church and Convent of San Clemente 404
Detail of the Interior of the Convent of San Clemente 405
Portal of Santa Cruz 406
Portal of Santa Cruz 407
Porch of Santa Cruz 408
The Hospital of Santa Cruz 408
Court of Santa Cruz 409
Courtyard of the Hospital 410
Court of Santa Cruz 411
Court of Santa Cruz 412
Detail of the Portal of the Hospital of Santa Cruz 413
Details of Santa Cruz 414
Hospital of Santa Cruz 415
Portals in the Vestibule of the Ancient Hospital of
Santa Cruz 416
Hospital of Santa Cruz. Portrait of the Founder,
Cardinal Mendoza 417
Hospital de Afuera. The Court 418
Hospital de Afuera 419
Hospital of St. John Baptist 420
Hospital de Afuera. Sepulchre of Cardinal Tavera,
1557, Alonzo Berruguete 421
The University 422
The University 422
Details of the House of Munárriz 423
Gate of Al Mardóm 424
Altar of the Church of San Justo 424
Portal of the Archbishop’s Palace 425
In the Town Hall 425
Cloisters of San Juan de los Reyes 426
View of St. Martin’s Bridge, looking down the River 426
Gallery of San Juan de los Reyes 427
A Moorish Workshop 427
Hotel Castilla 428
Detail of the Courtyard of the Hotel Castilla 429
Visigoth Capitals in the Church of San Sebastian 430
National Archæological Museum. Capital, Fourth
Century after the Hegira 431
National Archæological Museum. Capital of Santiago
de los Caballeros near the Alcazar. Fourth
Century after the Hegira 431
Capital in the Archæological Museum 432
National Archæological Museum. Fragment of Dado
found near the Basilica of Santa Leocadia 433
National Archæological Museum. Window of San Ginés 433
National Archæological Museum. Decorative Table in
White Marble, belonging to the Aljama Mosque of
Toledo 434
National Archæological Museum. Decorative Fragment
found at the “Miradero.” Carved in White
Marble 434
Capital in the South-west Angle, belonging to the old
Mosque, now the Hermitage of Santo Cristo de la
Luz 435
The Fifth of the Visigoth Capitals of the Hospital of
Santa Cruz 435
National Archæological Museum. Skylight or Ornament
found at Toledo 436
Visigoth Capital in the Provincial Museum 436
Architectural Fragments of the Visigoth Period in the
Parish Church of San Román 437
Architectural Pieces of the Visigoth Period existing in
the City 438
Architectural Fragments of the Visigoth Period 439
Capital of the South-east Angle belonging to the ancient
Mosque, now the Hermitage of Santo Cristo de la Luz 440
Visigoth Capital of the old Parish Church of San Sebastian 440
National Archæological Museum. Visigoth Capitals of
the Church of Santa Eulalia. Fragment of the
Dado of the Basilica of Santo Leocadia 441
Capitals in the Archæological Museum 442
Provincial Museum. Capital of the Fourth Century
after the Hegira 443
National Archæological Museum. Arab Astrolabe
made at Toledo in the year 459 after the Hegira
(A.D. 1067) 443
Architectural Fragments of the Visigoth Period 444
Architectural Fragments anterior to the Mahometan
Irruption, No. 1 445
Architectural Parts and Decorative Remains anterior
to the Mahometan Irruption, No. 2 446
Architectural Parts and Decorative Fragments anterior
to the Mahometan Irruption, No. 3 447
Arches of various Churches of the Fourteenth and
Fifteenth Centuries 448
Denudation of our Lord before the Crucifixion. El
Greco. Sacristy of the Cathedral 449
The Virgin, St. Anne, the Child Jesus, and St. John.
El Greco. Chapel of St. Anne 450
Our Lady of Sorrows. El Greco. Sacristy of the New
Kings, in the Cathedral 451
Pentecost. El Greco. Church of the Trinity 452
Jesus and St. John. El Greco. Church of St. John
the Baptist 453
The Assumption. El Greco. Chapel of San José 454
St. Martin. El Greco. Chapel of San José 455
The Holy Eucharist, by El Greco. Church of San José 456
San José and the Child Jesus. El Greco. Parish
Church of the Magdalene 457
The Interment of Count de Orgaz. El Greco. Church
of Santo Tomé 458
Detail of the Interment of Count de Orgaz. El Greco 459
Fragment of the Interment of the Count de Orgaz. El
Greco 460
Fragment of the Interment of the Count de Orgaz. El
Greco 461
Fragment of the Interment of the Count de Orgaz. El
Greco 462
Fragment of the Interment of the Count de Orgaz. El
Greco 463
Fragment of the Interment of the Count de Orgaz 464
Fragment of the Interment of the Count de Orgaz. El
Greco 465
Fragment of the Interment of the Count de Orgaz. El
Greco 466
The Annunciation. El Greco. Parish Church of San
Nicolás 467
The Crucifixion. El Greco. San Nicolás 468
San Pedro Nolasco. El Greco. Parish Church of San
Nicolás 469
The Assumption. El Greco. Parish Church of San
Vicente 470
San Eugenio. El Greco. Parish Church of San Vicente 471
St. Peter. El Greco. Parish Church of San Vicente 472
Jesus and the Virgin. El Greco. Parish Church of
San Vicente 473
The Ascension. El Greco. San Domingo el Antigua 474
A Saint (? Santo Domingo el Antigua). El Greco 475
The Birth of Jesus. El Greco. Santo Domingo el
Antigua 476
Santa Veronica with the Sudarium. El Greco. Santo
Domingo el Antigua 477
St. John Baptist. El Greco. Santo Domingo el Antigua 478
St. John the Evangelist. El Greco. Church of Santo
Domingo 479
Altar-piece of the Convent of Santo Domingo. El Greco 480
St. Francis of Assisi. El Greco. College of Noble
Ladies 481
The Baptism of Jesus. El Greco. Hospital of St. John
Baptist 482
Portrait of Cardinal Tavera. El Greco. Hospital of
St. John Baptist 483
View of the High Altar of the Tavera Hospital. El
Greco 484
General View of Toledo (left half). El Greco. Provincial
Museum 485
General View of Toledo (right half). El Greco. Provincial
Museum 486
View of Toledo. El Greco. Provincial Museum 487
Portrait of Antonio Covarrubias. El Greco. Provincial
Museum 488
Portrait of the Son of Covarrubias. El Greco. Provincial
Museum 489
The Crucifixion. El Greco. Provincial Museum 490
Allegory of the Virgin. El Greco. Provincial Museum 491
Portrait of Juan de Avila. El Greco. Provincial
Museum 492
Our Saviour. El Greco. Provincial Museum 493
St. John the Evangelist. El Greco. Provincial Museum 494
St. Peter. El Greco. Provincial Museum 495
St. Matthias. El Greco. Provincial Museum 496
St. Philip. El Greco. Provincial Museum 497
St. Andrew. El Greco. Provincial Museum 498
St. Thomas. El Greco. Provincial Museum 499
St. Simon. El Greco. Provincial Museum 500
St. Matthew. El Greco. Provincial Museum 501
St. Jude Tadeo. El Greco. Provincial Museum 502
An Apostle. El Greco. Provincial Museum 503
An Apostle. El Greco. Provincial Museum 504
An Apostle. El Greco. Provincial Museum 505
The Annunciation. El Greco 506
The Dream of Philip II. El Greco. Chapter Hall
of the Escorial 507
St. Maurice and the Theban Legion. El Greco. Chapter
Hall of the Escorial 508
Portrait of El Greco by Himself. Señor A. de Beruete,
Madrid 509
Christ driving the Money Changers from the Temple.
El Greco. Señor de Beruete, Madrid 510
Portrait of a Student (El Greco?). El Greco. Don
Pablo Bosch, Madrid 511
TOLEDO
THE CHILDHOOD OF THE CITY
There are spots that stand out in the ocean of time like islands
unsubmerged. The flood of years has rolled onwards past and around them,
and its billows have broken in vain against their shores. Such a spot is
Toledo. It lifts its head above the ever-shifting waters of the ages,
and looks forth unchanged, unchanging, across the sea of centuries--a
last surviving beacon of the drowned mediæval world.
Very old is the city. It has outgrown decay. Nor can we conceive it as
changing. It has almost become a part of the everlasting hills on which
it stands. The rock has grown into Toledo and Toledo into the rock.
In a land where all is old, men marvel at the antiquity of this city.
And when it was younger by centuries, the chroniclers, groping amid
legends and fables the wildest and most extravagant, strove to penetrate
the darkness of the ages and to discern the pale glimmerings of Toledo’s
dawn. Here, surely, first trod the first man, thought the ancients, and
here was already a city when God first placed His sun exactly over it in
the yet-dark Heavens. If this was not so, said another chronicler, then
beyond doubt Toledo’s seven hills were the first to appear above the
waters of the Deluge, and Tubal, the grandson of Noah, established here
a kingdom. So stories and traditions multiplied, each historian
inventing a fresh one. These fables of the city’s founding are quaint,
curious, and ingenious. Iberia and Hispania of course suggested persons,
and so we find Iberia, daughter of King Hispan, and wife of a Persian
captain, Pyrrhus, resorting in search of health to the banks of the
Tagus, and her husband making a bower for her on these rocky steeps.
Hercules, who is credited with the foundation of Seville, added the
building of Toledo to his many labours. “Dismiss these far-fetched
fables,” cries the learned prelate De Rada, “and admit that our city was
founded by the Consuls Tolemon and Brutus, in the reign of Ptolemy
Evergetes.” But another conjecture as absolutely baseless as the others!
More interesting is the legend that the town was built by Jews flying
from Nebuchadnezzar, by whom it was named Toledoth, “the city of
generation.” Certain it is that Jews lived in Toledo at the earliest
periods of its history, and played a great part, as we shall see, in its
affairs. However picturesque may be these traditions and wonderings of
the sages, we cannot resist the conclusion that the beginnings of this
old capital of Spain were obscure and commonplace enough. Along the
banks of the yellow Tagus savage tribesmen pastured their flocks and
herds, and the more practical spirits among them recognised the
advantages of the cliff above the river as a settlement. Doubtless mere
temporary encampments succeeded each other here season after season,
till some sentiment or necessity attached men permanently to the spot,
and a rude cluster of huts was formed--the rough inception of our
greatest towns.
The Celtiberians hereabouts were known to the Romans as Carpetani (how
ill these Latin forms seem to reproduce the uncouth designations which
these primitive peoples really bore!) The Carthaginians were the first
civilised nation to come in contact with them, and we hear of a Punic
governor, Tago. It is impossible to resist the suspicion that his
personality arose, Aphrodite-like, from the river Tagus. But a Moorish
writer gives a plausible account of a revolt which arose among the
Carpetani consequent on Tago’s assassination by Hasdrubal, the
contemporary of Hannibal. This brought that great commander himself upon
the scene. Before him the tribesmen were scattered like chaff before the
wind.
Did the African Phœnicians found a permanent station at Toledo? It
would not seem so. No vestige or fragment, no trace whatever of their
domination has come down to us. Most likely this was a mere trading
centre, where the black-bearded, keen-eyed Semites bartered the wares of
Africa and the East against the ores and fleeces of Spain. The
population remained almost purely Celtic. One wonders if a few
Carthaginians settled amongst them, and if their descendants became
confounded with their kinsmen in race, the Jews. It is a wild
conjecture, but might not the presence of such Semitic settlers have
given rise to the fantastic legend of the founding of Toledo by the
Children of Israel?
Where the Carthaginian sowed, the Roman reaped. And now the Carpetanian
village looms in the light not of mere tradition, but of history. Livy
tells us that in the year 193 B.C. the Pro-Consul Marcus Fulvius
Nobilior defeated a host of Celtiberians, Vaccei and Vectones in this
region, and took prisoner a king called Hilerno. In consequence of this
victory Toledo--described as _urbs parva sed loco munito_--fell into the
power of the conquerors. The wild rebellious Celts might henceforward
chafe and lash themselves into impotent fury; on their necks the yoke of
the Roman was firmly riveted, never by the natives unassisted to be
shaken off.
Historians have remarked on the aloofness of the Toledans during the
long winter of foreign domination. Between the various leaders and
factions who made Spain their cock-pit, the citizens observed strict
neutrality. They rendered no assistance to Viriathus in his magnanimous
attempt to recover national independence. Perhaps they were not wanting
in sympathy for their compatriots; but the conquerors had long
recognised the military value of the town by the Tagus, and here we may
suppose was always a strong garrison ready to stamp out the first
efforts at revolt.
Under the wings of the Roman eagle, the material prosperity of Toledo
steadily increased. From a collection of wretched huts, it had become a
_colonia_, the capital of Carpetania. As such it would have had its
_arx_, or citadel, prætorium, forum, temples, baths, and _vici_, or long
suburbs straggling into the country. Of all these practically no traces
remain. But in the Vega, outside the town, may be traced a semicircular
enclosure, formed by masses of stones and mortar, about a metre in
thickness, but of varying height. This space has been dignified with the
name of Circus Maximum, and is undoubtedly a Roman work. But Señor
Amador de los Rios has demonstrated almost conclusively that the Circus
never advanced much beyond the foundations, which we now see before us
probably in no very different state from that in which they were left
some two thousand years ago. But though no Celtiberian captives or
Christian martyrs here were “butchered to make a Roman holiday,” the
consecration of the spot to the practice of cruelty bore fruit in after
years. For the fires lit by the Inquisition were kindled here, and the
Christian put the incompleted amphitheatre to the use for which it had
been designed by the Pagan. To-day the men of Toledo play at _pelota_ in
the enclosure, and their cheery shouts may well scare away the ghosts of
torturer and victim.
This may be regarded as the most important Roman remains in the
neighbourhood of the city. The famous Cave of Hercules, which figures so
largely in legendary lore, was probably the crypt or substructure of a
Temple of Jupiter; and on the cliff-side below the Alcazar are a few
fragments of a once-important aqueduct.
It has been conjectured from the dimensions of the projected Circus that
the Romans had at one time thought of elevating Toledo to the rank of
chief city of Spain. The design, if it ever was formed, was never
carried into execution. Of what passed in the town under Latin rule we
have but the vaguest notion. Toledo, like almost every other place in
Europe, has its traditions of fierce persecution productive of local
martyrs. Almost as many Christians were massacred in Spain, if we
credit these stories, as Gibbon thinks perished in the whole Roman
Empire. Among the martyrs of Toletum, it is perhaps superfluous to say,
was a young and lovely virgin, in this instance called Leocadia. She was
done to death by the truculent Dacian. St. Eugenius, the first bishop of
Toledo, is said to have been a disciple of St. Paul. He was martyred at
Paris, and his alleged remains were obtained from Charles IX. of France
and presented to the city by Philip II.
In early ecclesiastical annals Toledo has less shadowy claims on
remembrance as the seat of several councils, the most celebrated being
those of 396, 400, 589. The minutes of the second council are preserved
in the local archives. Miss Hannah Lynch makes merry over the fathers’
spirited denunciations of her sex. In truth, the irreverent reader is
reminded of those other fulminations launched in the diocese of Rheims
against certain persons unknown, and of the poet’s surprised comment on
their want of effect. The sex fared better at the hands of the Council,
however, than vegetarians and mathematicians, both of whom were
excommunicated downright. Neither class is numerous in Spain at the
present day, so the labours of the fathers may not have been altogether
ineffectual.
THE CITY UNDER THE VISIGOTH
During the fifth century the Toledans may well have listened with
attention to spiritual discussions, for looking forth from their rocky
perch, they beheld the kingdoms of the earth passing away, and all that
had seemed stable and eternal fading like the morning mist. The final
breaking-up of the great world-controlling power was evident. Nations,
the very names of which the men of the south had never heard, loomed
from out the darkness of the north, and swept like a cloud of locusts
over the land. The whole of Spain was desolate. Toledo, ever grim and
stubborn, stood prepared to die hard. The tide of Vandal invasion surged
in vain round her walls; then spent its fury in the south. The Visigoths
established themselves in southern France. Under Walya they had overrun
Spain, but had exchanged it, willingly enough, for Aquitania. Euric the
Balthing, who succeeded his brother Theodoric as king in 466, seems to
have repented of the bargain. He reconquered all Spain, except Galicia,
which was held by the Suevi, and took Toledo. Where the Vandal had
failed, the Visigoth succeeded. In the first years of the sixth century
the Franks stripped Euric’s grandson, Amalaric, of practically all his
possessions north of the Pyrenees, and the kingdom of the Visigoths
became synonymous with Spain. Its capital was Narbonne during the
troubled reigns of Theudis and Theudigisel. But in 553 Athanagild was
elected king. His wife was the sister of the Bishop of Toledo, and
partly on that account, perhaps, but more probably because of its
central position, he made that city his capital. That rank it retained
during the continuance of the Visigothic monarchy, with the brief
interval of the reign of Liuba, who succeeded Athanagild in 567 and
removed his Court to Narbonne.
The history of Toledo for the next century and a half becomes, in some
sort, the history of Spain. Under Liuba’s brother and successor
Leovigild (more correctly Liobagilths) the monarchy was consolidated.
The Suevi in the north-west were subdued, and the nominal suzerainty of
the Eastern Emperor was disavowed. Despite the difference in religion
between the Visigoths, who were Arians, and the Romanised Iberians, who
were Catholics, the two races began to intermingle, and the fusion of
both into a single nation commenced. Leovigild was the first of his line
to assume the insignia and appurtenances of royalty, and struck coins
with his own likeness and the description, “King in Toledo.” The title
is significant of the increased importance of the city. The prosperity
of the kingdom was temporarily interrupted by the celebrated
insurrection of the monarch’s son Ermenegild. This was the outcome of
the marriage of that prince with Ingunthis, the daughter of the Prankish
and Catholic king Sisebert. The wedding was solemnised in Toledo with
great pomp, but the city shortly after became the scene of violent
quarrels between Queen Goiswintha and her daughter-in-law. Ermenegild
embraced his wife’s religion, and headed a revolt against his father. He
was defeated, and paid the penalty with his life at Tarragona, after
refusing to accept the sacrament at the hands of an Arian bishop.
Unedifying though his conduct may appear to us, he was regarded as a
martyr for the faith, and is enrolled among the saints of the Catholic
Church.
Nor does his example seem to have been without its effect upon his
brother, Reccared, who succeeded Leovigild in 587. In the month of May
589, Toledo was thronged with Catholic bishops and priests--many lately
returned from exile--and with nobles from all parts of Spain, making
their way to the Basilica of Santa Maria de la Sede Real, to assist at
the solemn profession of the Catholic faith by the king and his queen,
Baddo. Sixty-two prelates took part in this, the third Council of
Toledo, the most eminent being Massona, Bishop of Merida, Leandro of
Baetica, Santardus of Braga, Ugno of Barcelona, Megecias of Narbonne,
and Eufemio of Toledo. It was a memorable day for Spain. The king’s
example was soon followed by his subjects of his own race, and the
unification of the two peoples was greatly accelerated.