year in buying shoes, and average three pairs apiece, and yet few ever
think about their shoes so long as they do not look clumsy, or wear out
too quickly, or hurt the foot. Every one likes to buy good shoes as
cheaply as he can, and every one likes to feel that shoe manufacturers
are independent and successful, and that workmen get good wages, because
these things help along prosperity; but that is all. Yet here is an
industry in which the United States within a decade has come to lead
the world, and there are many things about it which it would be worth
while for every one to understand. It is worth while, for instance, to
know that there is no important operation on a shoe which need be done
by hand; that in the making of every good shoe no less than fifty-eight
different machines, and sometimes twice that number, are brought into
play; that nearly all these machines are of American invention; and
that they have been so perfectly adjusted one to another that they work
together almost with the precision of a watch; it is worth while to know
something about the marvelous system under the encouragement of which
this typical American industry has blossomed and borne fruit until it
employs two hundred million dollars of capital and nearly two hundred
thousand people, and turns out two hundred and fifty million pairs of
shoes a year; and why it is that the average man you meet to-day has a
better fitting, better wearing, and better looking shoe than the moneyed
man of yesterday--at a fraction of the expense.
This remarkable growth is distinctly American. In the United States
the tendency among the artisan class has been to abandon the slow hand
process. This tendency has been as strong as the tendency in Europe to
adhere to it. Moreover, there has developed among the laboring classes
in the United States a mobility such as is unknown elsewhere in the world.
Another advantage which has contributed to the rapid development of the
manufacture of shoes in the United States is the comparative freedom from
inherited and overconservative ideas. This country has entered upon its
industrial development unfettered by the old order of things, and with a
tendency on the part of the people to seek the best and quickest way to
accomplish every object.
[Illustration: Stitching Room of a German Shoe Factory.]
In all of the European countries in which the manufacturing of shoes is
an important industry, the transition from the household to the factory
system was hampered by guilds, elaborate national and local restrictions,
and by the national reluctance with which a people accustomed for
generations to fixed methods of work, in which they have acquired a large
degree of skill, abandon those methods for new ones. It was natural,
also, that in spite of the superior advantages of machine methods, hand
process of manufacture should still continue side by side with them, in
the European countries, though machine work had long since usurped the
whole field of the shoe industry in the United States.
As an American goes about among the European shoe factories he is greatly
surprised at the state of affairs. He is struck by three things which
are very conspicuous. They are: (1) Lack of use of machinery, lack of
all sorts of devices in order to save hand labor, which is carried out
so extensively in the United States. (2) Lack of the division of labor,
one factory attempting to make four or five kinds of shoes. (3) Lack of
methods employed for handling large quantities of materials.
One point that is overlooked in considering the shoe industries of the
two countries is the great difference in organization. In most European
factories, the manufacturer gets all the orders of different kinds, and
then attempts to make one or two lines with one or two qualities in the
same factory. In Switzerland one may find shoes and slippers for men,
women, and children made under the same roof.
In the United States the manufacturer makes a certain line of shoes in
one factory, and no other kind. If he has more than one line, he has
more than one factory, and each factory turns out a distinct shoe for a
distinct purpose. The manufacturer has his salesmen to sell these shoes.
The advantages of the American system are: (1) The managers and
workers of a factory turning out a certain line of goods become highly
specialized in that line, and can produce better results than the workers
in a factory attempting to make two or three lines of goods. (2) A large
shoe factory is laid out as a rule to do a certain kind of work, and it
seldom changes. This practice makes possible a greater production. On the
other hand we have something to learn from the European organization.
American manufacturers must meet the foreign trade. In order to do
this, the manufacturer must cater to the habits, customs, and climatic
conditions. The European manufacturer does this.
INDEX
Amhide, black, 58.
russet, 59.
Anatomy of the foot, 77, 80.
Ankle piece, 246.
Assembling, 126, 177.
Automobile leather, 225.
tanning of, 226.
Backs, 12.
Backstay, 2, 177, 247.
Back strap, 177.
Bal., 177.
Ball, 178.
Bating, 19.
Beading, 178.
Beamhouse process, 5.
Beating out, 178.
Bellows tongue, 178.
Belting, 62, 63, 178.
by-products, 69.
round, 69.
Belt-knife splits, 60.
Between substance, 178.
Bison, 59.
Blackball, 178.
Black box chrome side, 58.
Black hawk patent, 58.
Blacking the edge, 179.
Blocking, 179.
Bloom, 179.
Blucher, 179.
Boot, 180.
Bootee, 180.
Boris, 59.
Bottom, 1.
filling, 180.
scouring, 180.
Box calf, 55, 180.
toe, 181.
Boxing, 180.
Branded cowhide, 9.
Breaking the sole, 181.
Breast of the heel, 3.
Brogan, 181.
Bronko patent, 57.
Brushing, 181.
Buckskin, 181.
Buff, 181.
Buffing, 181.
Bull hides, 16.
Bunions, 84.
Button fly, 2.
Butts, 9.
Cable-nailing machine, invention of, 261.
Cack, 182.
Cadet kid, 56.
side, 57.
Calf leather, boarded, 40.
box, 40.
classes of, 40, 41.
cadet calf side, 57.
Dongola, 59.
dry hides, 40.
French, 40.
mat, 40.
Sheboygan, 59.
storm, 40.
suede, 40.
wax, 40.
Calf side leather, 57.
skins, 39, 182.
Calluses, 83.
Cambridge calf union splits, 60.
Cap, 182.
Carbarettas, 51, 181.
Carton, 182.
Cementing, 182.
Chamois, 182.
Channeling, 183.
Channel screwed, 183.
stitched, 183.
turning, 184.
Checking, 184.
Chemical tanning, 23, 24, 25.
Chrome flexible splits, 61.
tannage, 25, 26.
tanned embossed splits, 62.
Cleaning, inside, 184.
nails, 184.
shoes, 184.
Clicking, 184.
Closing, 184.
on, 184.
Colonial, 185.
Colorado steer hides, 9.
Colored box chrome side, 58.
Coltskin, 41, 185.
Combination last, 185.
Composition, 185.
Congress gaiter, 186.
Cordovan, 186.
Corns, 83, 84.
Counter, 124, 186.
pasted, 201.
Coupon tag, 187.
Cowhide, 187.
native, heavy and light, 7-9.
branded, 9.
Creasing vamp, 187.
Creedmore, 187.
Creole, 187.
Crimping, 188.
Cushion sole, 188.
Cut-off vamp, 188.
Dyeing, 188.
Dom Pedro, 188.
Dongola, 188.
calf, 59.
Dressing, 188.
Dry importation, 40, 41.
salted hides, 12, 32.
Edge setting, 188.
trimming, 188.
Enamel, 189.
Eyelet, 189.
Eyeletting, 189.
Facing, 189.
Factory system, first, 254.
Fair stitch, 189.
Faking, 189.
Fat liquored, 27.
Findings, 189.
Finishes of upper leather, 38.
Finishing of upper leather, 5.
Flap, 190.
Flesher, 18.
Flesh splits leather, 38, 60.
Flexible bends, 61.
splits, 61.
Follower, 190.
Foot, 77.
adult, 87.
anatomy of, 77, 78.
astragalus, 78.
calcaneum, 78.
characteristics of, 81.
cuneiform, 79.
flatfoot, 78.
measurements of, 95.
metatarsal, 79.
phalanges, 79.
rheumatism, 79.
structure of, 86.
Footwear, history of, 250.
Forepart finishing, 190.
Form, 190.
Foxed, 190.
Foxing, 2, 190.
Fresh hides, 7.
Frizzing, 191.
Front, 191.
Fudge-stitched, 133.
Fundamental shoe terms, 1.
Furniture leather, 225.
tanning of, 226.
Gaiter, 191.
congress, 186.
Gem insoles, 191.
Gemming, 191.
Glazed kid, 191.
Gloves, 218.
grain, 191.
tanning, 221.
Goatskin, 191.
Goodyear welt, 192.
difference between McKay and, 145.
Gore, 192.
Grades of leather, 7.
Grading, 192.
Grain leather, 38.
Green hides, 7.
Green salted, 12.
Gum counter, 247.
Half sole, 192.
Harness leather, 192.
Heel, 192.
breast of, 3.
finishing, 193.
lining, 193.
nailing, 194.
nailing machine, invention of, 262.
pad, 193.
scouring, 194.
seat, 194.
shaving, 194.
trimming, 194.
Hemlock leather, 29.
tanning, 29, 30, 194.
Hercules storm chrome, 59.
Hides, 4, 194.
bull, 10, 63.
classes of, 5, 6.
country, 10.
dry, 12, 32.
dry importation, 40, 41.
dry salted, 12, 32.
fresh, 7.
grades of, 7, 8, 9.
green, 7.
green salted, 12, 32.
imported, 32.
quality of, 6.
Inlay, 194.
Inner sole, 247.
Inseaming, 195.
Inseam trimming, 195.
Instep, 195.
Iron, 195.
Ironing uppers, 196.
Juliette, 196.
Kid, buckskin, 52.
buff, 52.
caster, 51.
chamois, 52.
characteristics of, 49.
Cordovan, 52.
dull, 49.
glazed, 49, 50.
importation of, 45.
kangaroo, 52, 196.
kangaroo kid side, 58.
kinds of finish, 49.
mat, 49, 50.
method of collecting, 46-48.
patent, 49.
process of tanning, 49.
seal grain, 52.
splits, 52.
suede, 51.
Kids, 41, 44, 196.
Kips, 5, 196.
Lace hook, 196.
stay, 2, 196.
Lacing, 197.
Lasting, 197.
Lasts, 97, 197.
combination, 185.
how made, 97.
Laying channel, 197.
Leather, 4.
automobile and furniture, 226.
belting, 62.
effect of cold, 53.
gloves, 218.
glove tanning, 221.
harness, 192.
hemlock, 29.
products, manufacture of, 218.
white, 54.
Leg cover, 198.
lining, 198.
Leveling, 197.
Lift, 197.
Lining, 197.
Lining-in, 198.
Lip, 190.
Loading leather, 198.
Mat royal chrome side, 58.
McKay shoe, 144, 198, 199.
difference between Goodyear welt and, 145.
difference between turned and, 152.
Middle sole, 199.
Mock welt, 199.
Molding, 199.
Monkey skin, 199.
Morocco, 199.
Mules, 199.
Nap, 199.
Native cowhides, 9.
steer hides, 9.
Naumkeaging, 199.
Nullifier, 200.
Oak-tanned leather, 28, 200.
Oak tanning, 28, 29.
Ohio buffs, 10.
Ooze gusset splits, 61.
leather, 200.
vamp splits, 62.
Ottawa, 59.
black and russet splits, 60.
Outer filler, 247.
Outside cutting, 200.
tap, 200.
Oxford, 200.
calf union splits, 60.
Packer hides, 201.
Packing, 201.
Pacs, 201.
Pancake, 201.
Para, 248.
Pasted leather, 201.
Patent leather, 41-43, 201.
black hawk, 58.
effect of cold on, 43.
objections to, 44.
Pattern, 201.
Pebble, 202.
Pegged shoemaking, 160.
Pegging, 202.
Perforating, 118.
Perforation, 202.
Pickled skins, 18.
Piping, 248.
Polish, 202.
Porpoise, 202.
Pressing, 202.
Pulling lasts, 202.
Pulling over, 202.
machine, 127.
Pump, 202.
sole, 202.
Quarter, 2, 203.
Rag counter, 248.
Rand, 203.
Rawhide products, 67.
Relasting, 203.
Remnants, 33.
sole leather, 33-37.
Repairing, 204.
Roan, 204.
Rolling, 204.
machine, invention of, 257.
Rough rounding, 204.
Royal kid, 56.
Royalties, 204.
Royalty system, invention of, 260.
Rubber, 228.
cloth manufacture, 244.
commercial grades of, 228.
drying, 232.
heels, 241.
shoe manufacture, 228.
calendering, 235.
cutting, 235.
varnishing, 237.
vulcanizing, 237.
washing, 231.
Russet calf, 204.
grain, 204.
Sabot, 204.
Sack lining, 204, 207.
Sandal, 205, 250.
Satin calf, 205.
Scouring breast, 205.
Screw fastened, 205.
Seal grain, 205.
Second lasting, 205.
Sewing machine, invention of, 257.
Shank, 1, 205.
burnishing, 206.
finishing, 206.
Shanking out, 206.
Sheboygan calf, 59.
Sheepskin, 206.
Sheep tanning, 16, 17.
Shoe, 103.
apprentice, 253.
case of, 109.
cutting room, 112.
departments of, 103.
dressing, 142.
factories, 103.
finishing, 138.
heeling, 140.
methods of manufacture, 103.
parts of, 1.
repairing, 167, 170.
sizes, 85, 207.
stitching, 119, 131.
treeing, 140.
Shoe Machinery Company, organization of, 270.
Shoemaker, first, in America, 251.
Shoemaking, 162.
old-fashioned, 162.
nail method, 161.
terms of, 177.
Shoe pegs, invention of, 257.
Shoulder, 196.
Sides, 206.
Side stay, 248.
Skins, 6, 207.
Skirting, 207.
Skiver, 18, 207.
Skiving machine, 117.
Slip, 207.
Slugging, 207.
Soaking process, 13, 19.
Soft tip, 207.
Sole, 11, 123, 208.
leather, 27, 28, 208.
laying, 208.
breaking of, 181.
Sorting, 208.
Spewing, 208.
Splits, 11, 60-62, 209.
Spring heel, 209.
Stamping, 209, 210.
Standard fastened, 210.
screw shoemaking, 160.
Stay, 209.
Staying, 210.
Steer hides, native, 9.
Stitch aloft, 210.
Stitch down, 210.
fair, 189.
separating, 210.
Stitching, rapid, 203.
Straight last, 210.
Stripping, 211.
Styles, how made, 93.
Suede, 211.
Tacking on, 211.
Tack pulling, 211.
Tampico, 211.
Tan, 211.
royal, 56.
Tanned leather adulterants, 75.
effects of perspiration, 71.
lubrication, 72.
properties, 70.
substitutes, 73, 74, 76.
weighing, 75.
Tannin, 21.
Tanning, 4, 21, 211.
chemical, 21.
hemlock, 29, 30.
leather for belting, 64, 65, 66.
oak, 28, 29.
processes of, 21.
rapid processes of, 25.
tawing, 21, 212.
Union, 30, 31.
vegetable, 21.
Tap, 211.
putting on, 202.
trimming, 212.
Tawing, 212.
Tempering, 212.
Tennis shoe manufacture, 239.
Texas steer hide, 9.
Tip, 2, 212.
cutting, 212.
Toe, and heel lasting, 212.
box, 181.
filler, 248.
lining, 248.
piece, 213.
Tongue, 2, 213.
Top, 1, 213.
cutting, 213.
facing, 213.
left, 213.
left scouring, 213.
left stitching, 213.
Treeing, 213.
Trimming counter, 213.
vamp, 213.
Turned shoe, characteristics of, 156.
difference between McKay and, 152.
history of, 158.
Turning, 214.
shoe, 151, 214.
Ungrained, 214.
Unhairing of hides, 15, 19.
Union-tanned leather, 30, 31.
Union tanning, 30, 31.
Upper, 1, 214.
Upper or dress leather, 37, 38, 55-57.
Vamp, 1, 214, 249.
creasing, 187.
cutting, 215.
form, 249.
short, 206.
Vamping, 215.
Vegetable tanning, 22.
tans, 22.
Vellum, 215.
Velour, 215.
Veneering, 215.
Vesting, 215.
Vici, 216.
Viscolizing, 216.
Vulcanizing, 243.
cold cure, 243.
steam cure, 243.
Wash leather, 216.
Waterproof black, 58.
Waxed threads, 164.
Web straps, 249.
Welts, 129, 216.
beating, 217.
Goodyear, 192.
Welting, 217.
White alum, 217.
Willow calf leather, 55.
Wooden case, 217.
Zulu, 59.