She said, "The King has such a good heart."

The thought of the poor young fellow who was to be shot kept me awake,

and I thought at five o'clock that I heard the report of guns, but I

was not sure. My imagination was so keen that I could have pictured

anything to myself.

The first thing the King said to me at luncheon was, "Did you hear this

morning?"

I told him I heard something, but I dreaded to think what it might have

meant.

"Alas!" he said, as his eyes filled with tears, "it is too true, I hate

to think of it."

We left Monza at three o'clock this afternoon, I cannot tell you how

kind their Majesties were to me! The Queen kissed me good-by and said,

"_Au revoir à Rome_."

The King gave me his arm and went down the steps of the grand staircase

of the principal entrance with me and put me himself in the landau.

"You do not know what an honor this is," said Signor Peruzzi--as if I

did not appreciate it!

We drove to the station in state and traveled in the royal compartment

to Milan.... We intended to leave for Rome and home this evening, but

I feel too tired to do anything but send to you these few lines and go

to bed.

To-morrow night will find us in the Palazzo Tittoni, where the children

already have arrived.

ROME, _January, 1885_.

Dear Aunt Maria,--Just now we are reveling in Liszt. Rome is wild over

him, and one leaves no stone unturned in order to meet him. Fortunate

are those who have even a glimpse of him, and thrice blessed are those

who _know_ and hear him. He is the prince of musicians--in fact, he is

treated like a prince. He always has the precedence over every one;

even Ambassadors--so tenacious of their rights--give them up without

hesitation. Every one is happy to pay this homage to genius.

We met him the first time at M. de Schlözer's dinner. Schlözer, with

his usual tact, plied him well with good food, gave him the best of

wines and a superlative cigar. (Liszt is a great epicure and an

inveterate smoker.) M. de Schlözer never mentioned the word "music,"

but made Liszt talk, and that was just the thing Liszt wanted to do,

until, seeing that he was not expected to play, he was crazy to get to

the piano. Finally he could not resist, and said to Schlözer, "Do play

something for me!"

"Never!" said Schlözer. "I would not dare."

Then Liszt turned to me and asked me to sing. I also said, "I would not

dare." Whereupon he said, "Well, since no one will do anything, I will

play myself."

(The Minghettis, von Keudell, and Count Arco, Schlözer's secretary,

were the guests.)

How divinely he played! He seemed to be inspired. Certainly the

enthusiastic and sympathetic listeners were worthy to be his audience.

"Do you still sing Massenet?" he said to me. "Do you recollect my

dining with you in Paris, and your singing those exquisite songs?"

"Recollect it!" I cried. "How do you think I could ever forget?"

"Will you not sing? I will accompany you," he said. "Have you any of

Massenet's songs?"

"I have nothing with me to-night. I never dreamt of singing," I

answered.

Schlözer said: "That is no obstacle. I will send a servant to your

house directly to fetch the music." And in a very short time the music

was in my hands.

Then Liszt sat down and, turning over the pages, found what he wanted,

and I sang. Schlözer was radiantly happy. There was not one disturbing

element. Every one was as appreciative as he was himself--those who

listened as well as those who performed.

[Illustration:

NOTE FROM F. LISZT]

Liszt was at his best; I mean that he could not have been better.

Knowing that Count Arco sang, he insisted on hearing him. Arco at first

declined, but finally yielded--there was no resisting the arch-charmer.

Liszt played the "_Suoni la tromba_" (Arco's _cheval de bataille_), by

heart, of course, singing himself, to help the timid singer, and adding

variations on the piano.

Liszt was in such high spirits that we would not have been surprised if

he had danced a jig. He threw his long hair back from his forehead, as

if to throw care to the winds. Later he spread his large hands over the

keyboard in protest and said, "_No more from me_, but we must hear

Schlözer before we go." Therefore Schlözer was obliged to play. He can

only improvise, as you know. Liszt sat by his side and played a helpful

bass.

Schlözer ordered some champagne, and we all drank one another's

healths. It was after one o'clock when we bade our host adieu. Johan

and I took Liszt in our carriage and left him at his apartment in the

Via Margutta on our way home.

We saw a great deal of him afterward, and he dined with us twice. The

first time we asked Grieg, the Norwegian genius, thinking it would

please Liszt to meet him. Perhaps this was a mistake. However, it was a

most interesting evening. Mrs. Grieg sang charmingly (Grieg's songs, of

course); and Liszt, with his hands folded in front of him, was lost in

thought--or was he asleep? Let us say he _dozed_--only waking up to

clap his hands and cry "Brava!" But it was perfectly wonderful when he

read at sight a concerto of Grieg's, in manuscript, which Grieg had

brought with him. Liszt played it off as if he had known it all his

life, reading all the orchestra parts. Both these great artists were

enchanted with each other, but after a while Liszt became tired of

music and asked if we could not have a game of whist. To play a banal

game of whist with Liszt seemed a sacrilege, but we played, all the

same. I was very _distraite_, seeing Grieg and his wife (who do not

play cards) wandering restlessly around the room, and sometimes I put

on an ace when a two would have done the deed.

Liszt plays the piano better than he plays whist. I don't know how many

times he revoked. Every one pretended not to notice, and we paid up at

the finish without a murmur. He was delighted to win four lire and

something, and counted out the small change quite conscientiously.

Johan drove him home--a very tired and sleepy Liszt--and only left him

at the sill of his door.

I received a very queer letter the day Liszt dined here. I copy it for

you. It was from the Princess W----, a lady whose friendship he

renounced when he took holy orders.

I hear that you are going to have the Master (_le Maître_) to dine

at your house. I beg of you to see that he does not sit in a

draught of air, or that the cigar he will smoke will not be too

strong, and the coffee he drinks will be weak, for he cannot sleep

after, and please see that he is brought safely to his apartment.

Yours, etc., etc.

* * * * *

All these instructions were carried out to the letter. On another

occasion Liszt wrote to me that he would bring some of his songs to try

over at five o'clock. I inclose his letter. What a chance, thought I,

for me to give pleasure to some of my friends who I knew were longing

to see him. Although he had said _entre nous_ in his letter, and I knew

that he really wanted to look through the songs alone with me, I could

not resist the temptation--though it was such rank disobedience--and

said to them: "Liszt is coming to me at five o'clock. If you would like

to hear him, and consent to be hidden behind a door, I will invite

you." They all accepted with rapture, and were assembled in the little

_salon_ before the time appointed. The door was left open and a large

screen placed before it.

Johan fetched Liszt in our carriage, as he always does. I received him

and the book of _Lieder_, which he brought with him. (Only Johan and

Nina were present.) He opened the book at "_Comment disaient

ils?_"--one of his most beautiful songs, which has an exquisite but

very difficult accompaniment. He played with fairy fingers, and we went

over it several times. I could see the screen swerving and waving

about; but Liszt's back was turned, so he could not see it.

After we had finished tea was served, and then he said, "Have you heard

my 'Rigoletto'?"

"Yes," I said, "but not by you."

"Well," he said, "I will play it for you. Your piano is better than the

one I have. It is a pleasure to play on it."

The screen, now alive with emotion, almost tipped over. After

"Rigoletto" he played "_Les soirées de Vienne_," and this time the

screen actually did topple over and exposed to view the group of ladies

huddled behind it. I shuddered to think how the Master would take this

horrible treachery.

He took it better than I expected--in fact, he laughed outright. The

ladies came forward and were presented to him, and were delighted. I am

sure that Liszt was, too; at any rate, he laughed so much at my ruse

and contrition that the tears rolled down his cheeks. He wiped them

away with his pocket-handkerchief, which had an embroidered "F.L." in

the corner. This he left behind, and I kept it as a souvenir.

Some days after this there was a large dinner given by the German

Ambassador (Herr von Keudell) for the Princess Frederick Carl. Liszt

and many others, including ourselves, were present. The Ambassador

allowed the gentlemen only a short time to smoke; he gave them good but

small cigars. I do not know how the great Master liked this, for he is

a fervent smoker. However, as _le charbonnier est maître chez lui_, our

host had his way and the music commenced, as he wished, very soon after

dinner. Both the Ambassador and his wife are perfect pianists.

They play four-hand pieces on two pianos. On this occasion, to do honor

to the famous composer, they grappled with a formidable work by Liszt,

called "Mazeppa." (I fancy that Liszt is a little like Rossini, who

used to say, "_Jouez pour moi toute autre chose que ma musique_.")

Mazeppa's wild scampering over the two keyboards made our hair stand on

end, but the Master dozed off in peaceful slumber and only waked up and

cried "Bravo!" when Mazeppa had finished careering and the two pianists

were wiping their perspiring brows. Liszt begged the Princess to

whistle, and opened his book of _Lieder_ at "_Es muss ein wunderbares

sein_" (a lovely song) and said, "Can you whistle that?" Yes, she

could; and did it very carefully and in a _wunderbares_ manner. Liszt

was astonished and delighted.

Then Liszt played. Each time I hear him I say, "Never has he played

like this." How can a person surpass himself? Liszt does. He had the

music of "_Comment disaient ils?_" in the same book and begged me to

sing it. "Do you think," he said, "you could add this little cadenza at

the end?" And he played it for me.

"I think so," I said. "It does not seem very difficult," and hummed it.

"I had better write it for you," he said, "so that you will not forget

it." And he took out his visiting-card and wrote it on the back. (I

send it to you.)

[Illustration:

FROM F. LISZT

Handwritten music score.]

Liszt is not always as amiable as this. He resents people counting on

his playing. When Baroness K. inveigled him into promising to take tea

with her because he knew her father, she, on his accepting, invited a

lot of friends, holding out hopes that Liszt would play. She pushed the

piano into the middle of the room--no one could have possibly failed to

see it. Every one was on the _qui vive_ when Liszt arrived, and

breathless with anticipation. Liszt, who had had many surprises of this

sort, I imagine, saw the situation at a glance. After several people

had been presented to him, Liszt, with his most captivating smile, said

to the hostess:

"_Où est votre piano, chère madame?_" and looked all about for the

piano, though it was within an inch of his nose.

"Oh, Monseigneur! Would you, really...?" advancing toward the piano

triumphantly. "You are too kind. I never should have dared to ask you."

And, waving her hand toward it, "_Here_ is the piano!"

"Ah," said Liszt, who loves a joke, "_c'est vrai. Je voulais y poser

mon chapeau_."

Very crestfallen, but undaunted, the Baroness cried, "But, Monseigneur,

you will not refuse, if only to play a scale--merely to _touch_ the

piano!"

But Liszt, as unkind as she was tactless, answered, coldly, "Madame, I

never play my scales in the afternoon," and turned his back on her and

talked with Madame Helbig.

As they stood there together, he and Madame Helbig, one could not see

very much difference between them. She is as tall as Liszt, wears her

hair short, and is attired in a long water-proof which looks like a

soutane; and he wears his hair long, and is attired in a long soutane

which looks like a water-proof. As regards their clothes, the only

noticeable difference was that her gown was buttoned down the front and

his was not. Both have the same broad and urbane smile.

One of the last dinners with Liszt before he left Rome was at the Duke

and Duchess Sermonetas'--the Minghettis, the Keudells, Schlözer, and

ourselves. Lenbach, the celebrated painter, was invited, but forgot all

about the invitation until long after the dinner. Then he hurriedly

donned a _redingote_ and appeared, flurried and distressed. Liszt was

in one of his most delightful moods, and began improvising a

tarantella, and Madame Minghetti jumped up suddenly and started to

dance. Schlözer, catching the spirit of it, joined her. Who ever would

have thought that the sedate German Minister to the Pope could have

been so giddy! He knelt down, clapping his hands and snapping his

fingers to imitate castanets. Madame Minghetti, though a grandmother,

danced like a girl of sixteen, and Liszt at the piano played with

Neapolitan gaiety! It was a moment never to be forgotten. Keudell's

kind eyes beamed with joy. Lenbach looked over his spectacles and

forgot his usual sarcastic smile. We all stood in an enchanted circle,

clapping our hands in rhythmical measure.

Our good friend Ludolf, as Liszt's ambassador, asked the abbé--who has

a great respect for "the powers that be"--to a beautiful dinner, to

which we were invited, the Minghettis, the Keudells, and four

others--making twelve in all. Madame Minghetti accepted for herself,

but excused her husband, who she said was not to be in Rome that

evening. Count Ludolf asked M. de Pitteurs (the Belgian Minister) to

fill Minghetti's place.

Five minutes before dinner was announced, in came Madame Minghetti with

Monsieur Minghetti.

"What!" cried the Count. "I did not expect _you_! Why did you not send

me word that you were coming? We shall be thirteen at table, and that

will never do."

Both M. and Mme. Minghetti were very much embarrassed.

"There is nothing easier," answered Signor Minghetti. "I can go home."

You may imagine that this was not very pleasant for the great

Minghetti, who had probably never had such an experience in all his

life.

Count Arco, seeing the situation, and as a solution to the difficulty,

went across the street to the club, thinking that some one could be

found. Fortunately, he succeeded, and you may be sure the emergency

guest was only too delighted to make the fourteenth at _that_ table.

The Minghettis kindly and magnanimously overlooked the Count's want of

tact.

Liszt, as if he wished to make us forget this untimely incident, played

after dinner as he had never played before. But nothing could suppress

Count Ludolf--never mind where the _plats_ were, his feet continued to

get into them. Right in the middle of Liszt's most exquisite playing

our irrepressible host said, in a loud voice:

"If any one wishes to have a game of whist, there are tables in the

other room."

Liszt stopped short, but, seeing all our hands raised in holy horror at

the thought of exchanging him for a game of whist, consented amiably to

remain at the piano.

Liszt honored me by coming to my reception, brought by M. de

Keudell--Liszt is always brought. Imagine the delight of my friends who

came thus unexpectedly on the great Master. They made a circle around

him, trying to edge near enough to get a word with him. He was

extremely amiable and seemed pleased to create this manifestation of

admiration. (Can one ever have enough?) There are two young musical

geniuses here at the Villa Medici, both _premier prix de Rome_. One is

Gabriel Pierné, surnamed "_Le Bébé_" because he is so small and looks

so boyish--he really does not seem over fourteen years of age--and

another, Paul Vidal, who is as good a pianist as Pierné, but not such a

promising composer.

I asked Liszt if he would allow these two young artists to play some of

their compositions for him. Liszt kindly consented, and the appointed

day found them all in the _salon_. Liszt was enchanted (so he said);

but how many times has he said, clapping the delighted artist on the

shoulder, "_Mon cher, vous avez un très grand talent.... Vous irez

loin; vous arriverez_," a great phrase! And then he would sit down at

the piano, saying with a smile, "Do you play this?" and play it and

crush him to atoms, and they would depart, having _la mort dans l'âme_,

and overwhelmed with their imperfections. Instead of encouraging them,

he discouraged them, poor fellows! Speaking of young artists in

general, he said once, "_Il n'y a personne qui apprécie comme moi les

bonnes intentions, mais je n'en aime pas toujours les resultats_."

You may believe that my artistic soul is full of joy when I can collect

about me such artists as Liszt, Grieg, Sgambati, Pierné, Vidal, Mme.

Helbig, and Countess Gigliucci, not to mention the Queen's _Gentilhomme

de la reine_ (Marquis Villamarina), who has the most delicious barytone

voice I have ever heard--but he seems to think as little of this divine

gift as if it were his umbrella. Vera (the singing-master) was

prevented from coming to-day to the Queen's lesson, and Signor

Marchetti replaced him. He is a very well-known composer, and has

written an opera called "Ruy Blas," which has had quite a success here

in Italy. The Queen and I sing a duet from it which is really charming.

Baron Renzis had some theatricals at his pretty villa in Piazza

Indipendenza, in which Nina acted the principal _rôle_, in "L'été de

St.-Martin." Senateur Alfieri (son of the celebrated Alfieri) took the

part of the uncle. One of the thirteen pictures Lenbach painted of Nina

was put on the stage and afterward brought before the curtain, but it

created no enthusiasm--people did not think it did her justice.

One actor (a young Frenchman) had such a stage-fright that when he had

to say this phrase (it was all he had to say), "_Le peintre vous a

diablement flattée_," he said, "_Le diable vous a peintrement

flattée_," which caused a roar of laughter and hurt Lenbach's

feelings....

Massenet has just sent a complete collection of his songs--all six. I

like the first two best--"_Poëme d'Avril_" and "_Poëme de Souvenir_."

This last he dedicated to me. There stands on the title-page, "_Madame,

Vous avez si gracieusement protege le Poëme d'Avril_...", etc. The

"_Poëme d'Hiver_," "_Poëme d'Octobre_," and "_Poëme d'Amour_" have

pretty things in them, but they are far from being so complete as the

first ones. Massenet wrote the date of its composition on each

title-page, and a few bars of music.

I took them to the Queen, and we looked them over together. She was

enchanted, and thought them the most graceful and refined things she

had ever heard. She said, "I envy you having them."

"Would your Majesty like to have some?" I asked.

"Yes, indeed; very much," she replied. "But I could never sing them.

You would have to teach me how. They suit your voice, but would they

mine? No one can sing them as you do."

"I learnt them with Massenet; that is why," I replied.

I wrote to Massenet and begged him to send the same collection to the

Queen, as she had been so delighted with his songs, and added, "Don't

forget to put your name, the dates, and a bar or two of music just like

what you sent to me."

Most amiably he did what I asked for, and the Queen was more than

pleased, and immediately thanked him through the Marquise Villamarina.

Massenet has become a great celebrity now. Twenty years ago, when he

was struggling to get on in Paris, Auber and I helped him. I used to

pay him five francs an hour for copying manuscripts. Now one pays

twenty francs _just to look at him_!

Mr. Morgan, of London, has hired our good friend George Wurts's

magnificent apartment in the relic-covered Palazzo Antici-Mattei. Wurts

is secretary to the American Legation in Petersburg, but comes

occasionally to see his friends in Rome, who all welcome him with

delight. Mr. Morgan gives beautiful dinners, and, although he has as

many fires as he can possibly have, the huge rooms are freezingly cold,

and sometimes we sit wrapped in our mantles.

ROME, _1st of January, 1886_.

My dear Aunt,--All Johan's and my most affectionate greetings: "May the

year which commences to-day bring you every joy." I am selfish enough

to wish that it will bring _us_ the joy of seeing you. You promised to

make us a visit. Why not this spring?

It is six o'clock. I am sitting in my dressing-gown and feeling good

for nothing. The diplomatic reception this afternoon was as brilliant

as the others which I have described so often. The Queen was, _if

possible_, more beautiful and gracious than ever. (I think the same

each time I see her.) Every eye followed her. Does there exist in the

world a more complete and lovely woman? To-day the Queen's dress was

exquisite--a white satin covered with paillettes and beads, the court

train of blue velvet heavily embroidered in silver. The tiara of

diamonds, with great upward-pointed shaped pearls which her Majesty

wore, was the King's New-year gift. "My Christmas present," the Queen

told me.

The King seemed more talkative than usual; he spoke a long time with

each person and smiled and laughed continually. Politics must be

_easy_--like honors in whist. There is evidently no trouble in that

quarter.

_March._

Dear ----,--I have permission to tell the great secret. Nina is engaged

to the young Dane I wrote to you about--a Count Raben-Levetzau. He is

very charming and belongs to one of the best families in Denmark. We

went to the German Ambassador's (Herr von Keudell's) ball last evening

at the Palazzo Caffarelli, which the King and the Queen honored with

their presence. As soon as I could, I approached the Queen, who was

sitting in one of the gilded chairs on the _estrade_ which does duty

for a throne, and told her of Nina's engagement. She came forward to

the edge of the platform and, beckoning Nina to come to her, held out

her hand and kissed her on both cheeks before the whole assemblage. Of

course, the news circulated as quick as lightning. When the King heard

it he came straight up to us, and I presented Frederick to him. His

Majesty was most affable, and said, smilingly, to Nina:

"Are we really going to lose you? We shall miss our beautiful stella"

(star). And turning to Frederick, he said: "I do not give my consent

_at all_. I think that I will forbid the banns."

Every one crowded around Nina, eager to congratulate her. Frederick was

as radiant as a new-blossomed _fiancé_ could possibly be.

_March._

We are as busy as bees. The trousseau is being made by the nuns in the

Trinita de Monti convent. The Queen sent Nina a beautiful point-lace

fan with mother-of-pearl sticks. The Queen of Denmark sent her a

bracelet with diamonds and pearls. Count Raben's family and all the

colleagues have given her beautiful presents.

_April 10th._

It is all over--Nina is married and gone.

Day before yesterday was a day of emotions. In the morning we went at

ten o'clock to the Campidoglio, where the magistrate's offices are and

where the _sindaco_ (the Marquis Guiccioli, a great friend of Nina's)

performed the civil marriage. He particularly wished to do this _en

personne_ as a special favor. He made a charming and affectionate

speech and gave the pen we signed the contract with to Nina. Then we

drove home, changed our dresses, and were ready at two o'clock for the

real marriage at the church.

The church was filled to the last pew. When Nina came in on Johan's arm

there was a murmur of admiration. She looked exquisitely in her bridal

gown, and as she turned round before descending the altar steps and

threw back her veil she was a vision of beauty, and I am sure she will

be a "joy for ever." All Rome came to the reception at our house.

While at Sorrento we went one afternoon to take tea with the Marion

Crawfords. They have a charming villa on the rocks. They seemed very

glad to see us, and showed us all over the villa and their pretty

garden. "My den," as Mr. Crawford called his sunny and comfortable

library quite worthy of the lion he is. They are a very handsome

couple. She is as sympathetic as he is, and they both talk in the most

entertaining and lively manner. We had a delightful afternoon.

I was asked to sing at a charity concert to be given in the magnificent

_Salle de Gardes_ in the Barberini Palace. The concert was arranged by

all the most fashionable ladies in Rome, who with the ladies of the

court were _dames patronesses_.

I accepted, as the Queen expressed the wish that I should. She even

selected the songs she thought best for the occasion, and was present

with all the court, which, of course, gave great _éclat_ to the

concert.

Every place was taken, and, enormous as was the _salle_, it was crammed

to its limit, people standing up by hundreds. Sarah Bernhardt, being in

Rome, promised to lend her aid; she recited a monologue in her soft,

melodious voice, but so low that it could hardly have been heard

farther than the first few rows of seats.

I sang the "Rossignol" and Liszt's "_Que disaient ils?_" to Sgambati's

accompaniment. Madame Helbig played the accompaniment of the

"Capriciosa" of Blumenthal, the one that has all those wonderful

cadenzas which run rampant through the different keys. Madame Helbig is

a marvelous musician. I must tell you what she did. When I was soaring

all alone up in the clouds without any earthly help in that long

cadenza, she foresaw that I was not coming down on the right note and

changed the key from four sharps to four flats without any one noticing

it, thereby saving me from dire disaster.

Any musician can change from sharps to flats, but she was reading this

very difficult accompaniment almost at first sight and before a large

audience. I think that it was a tremendous _tour de force_.

AALHOLM, _August, 1886_.

My dear Aunt,--Did you receive the newspaper cuttings I sent you

describing the home-coming of Frederick and Nina? Did they not read

like fairy tales?

Aalholm Castle is situated on the sea. It is one of the most historic

places in the country, and seems to have been bandied back and forth to

pay the different kings' debts.

Christopher II. was imprisoned here (the prisons still exist), and two

more moldy and unpleasant places to be shut up in cannot well be

imagined. The guards used to walk up and down in front of the aperture

through which food was passed to the unfortunate and damp monarch.

Later Aalholm came into Count Raben's family (in the eighteenth

century). There are, of course, all sorts of legends and ghostly

stories which, as in all ancient castles, are, with the family specter,

absolutely necessary. Women in gauzy drapery have been seen roaming

about in dark corridors, horses have been heard rattling their chains

in the courtyard. Mirrors also do something, but I forget what.

However, no phantoms, I believe, have been noticed during this

generation; probably the building which is going on now has discouraged

them on their prowling tours and routed them from their lairs. I have

watched with interest for the last three weeks the workmen who are

making a hole in the massive walls in a room next to mine. The walls

are about ten feet thick and are made of great boulders, the space

between being filled with mortar which time has made as hard as iron.

Every king or owner of Aalholm since the time it has stood on its legs

seems to have had different ideas about windows. One sees on its tired

old exterior traces of every kind and every period. Some round, some a

mere slit in the wall, some with arches all helter-skelter, without any

regard to symmetry or style.

Each owner made his window, and each successor bricked it up and put

his window in its place. The building is very long, with two towers. It

looks at a distance like a huge dachshund with head and tail sticking

up. There is a chapel in one wing, which no one ever enters, and there

is a theater in another wing, where in old times there were given

plays.

The park is beautiful beyond words. You come across some old graves of

vikings, of which nothing is left save the stones they used for the

making of them. The treasures that they contained have long since been

removed by a wise government in order to fill the national museums.

Many gold and silver coins have been picked up _in the grounds_, and

are turned to use by making tankards and bowls, and very pretty and

interesting they are. On the walls of the large hall there are

inscriptions which were made in the sixteenth century to commemorate

the visits of different monarchs. King Frederick II., 1585, must have

had many friends with him. Like our modern guest-book, each guest left

his name and motto, which was painted on the walls, with his motto and

his particular sign, such as a mug or a rake (I hope these did not

refer to his personal attributes). One that King Frederick wrote seems

to me to be very pathetic, and makes one think that his friends must

have been ultra-treacherous and false. It reads: "_Mein hilf in Gott.

Wildbracht allein ist treu_." ("God is my help. Wildbracht [the name of

his dog] alone is faithful.") Don't you think that has a sad note in

it?

[Illustration:

AALHOLM. BUILT IN 1100

In 1585 some changes were made and from time to time windows have been

cut through the walls.]

[Illustration:

INSCRIPTIONS IN ONE OF THE ROOMS AT AALHOLM, BEARING THE DATE 1585

Those at the top are: Left: "My hope is in God. Wildtbragt [his dog]

alone is faithful.--Frederick II., King of Denmark and Norway." Right:

"God forgets not His own.--Soffia, Queen of Denmark." Those below were

made by members of the court, who attached their individual marks

instead of signatures.]

MILAN, HOTEL MILAN, _October 17, 1886_.

Dear Aunt M----,--Just think what luck I have had. They say that

everything comes to those who wait, and what I have waited for has come

at last. I have seen and made the acquaintance of Verdi, the famous. He

always stops at this hotel, because he is a friend of the proprietor's,

Mr. Spatz, who, knowing my desire to meet Verdi, said that he would

arrange an interview. This he kindly did. Verdi received me in his

_salon_. He looks just like his photographs--very interesting face

with burning eyes. His welcome was just warm enough not to be cold. The

conversation opened, of course, on music. I said that I admired his

music more than that of any other composer in the world. This was

stretching a point, but it brought a pale smile to his verdigris

countenance (this is unworthy of the worst punster). I told him that I

often had the honor of singing with the Queen, and that we sang many

duets from his operas. He did not seem to be much impressed by this

miracle and received it with amiable indifference.

I longed to hear him talk, but with the exception of a few

"_veramentes_" and "_grazies_" he remained passive and silent. By way

of saying something he asked me if I had heard Tamagno in "Othello."

"Yes," I said. "I cannot think of anything more splendid. I never heard

anything to equal him, and Monsieur Maurel is equally fine, is he not?"

"His singing is well enough," answered Verdi, "but his accent is

deplorable."

After this the conversation languished, and I feared it would die for

want of fuel. I felt that I had been spinning my web in vain--that I

might catch some other fly, but not Verdi, when suddenly he said:

"You tell me that you sing often with the Queen. Which duets of mine do

you sing?" he asked with seeming interest.

The Sunny Side of Diplomatic Life, 1875-1912 · 第 80 / 126 题