ROME, PALAZZO ROSPIGLIOSI, _December, 1880_.
Dear Mother,--We are now almost settled in the Eternal City, after a
process which has seemed to me as eternal as the city itself, and I am
so far established as to be able to take up the threads of my new life.
The first of these will be this letter to you.
We found an apartment in this palace which is large and comfortable. It
looks onto the Piazza Quirinal on one side, and on the other into the
courtyard, where we see the procession of tourists with red Baedekers
under their arms, filing into the Palazetto to admire the famous
"Aurora."
Johan had been received by King Umberto before I arrived. The ceremony
seems to have been full of splendor and surrounded with etiquette. A
magnificent gala coach drawn by two splendid horses brought Signor
Peruzzi (master of ceremonies), accompanied by an escort of
carabineers, to the Hôtel Bristol, where Johan was stopping, attracting
a large crowd in the Piazza Barberini--less than this is sufficient to
collect gazers-on in Italy, where the natives pass most of their time
in gazing at nothing at all.
As the carriage entered the _grande cour_ of the palace, the guards
presented arms and the military band played. A second master of
ceremonies met Johan at the foot of the principal staircase, while the
Grand Master of Ceremonies waited for him at the head of it.
Accompanied by these gentlemen, Johan passed through the long gallery,
which was lined on both sides by the civil and military members of the
household. At the extreme end of the gallery stood the prefect of the
palace, Signor Visone, who preceded Johan to the King's apartment and
retired after having announced him to his Majesty. This seems
complicated, but you see it takes all these functionaries to present a
Minister to a King.
Johan had prepared his obligatory speech about _les bonnes relations_
which had always existed between Italy and Denmark, and so forth, but
the King did not give him the opportunity to make any speech at all. He
held out his hand and said in a most friendly and cordial manner, "_Je
suis bien content de vous voir, et j'èspère que vous vous plairez parmi
nous_." His Majesty then asked Johan about King Christian, and spoke
about the visit he had made to Denmark some years ago. Before the end
of the audience Johan succeeded in making the King accept his _lettres
de créance_, and presented the greetings of King Christian; but the
speech remained unspoken.
The contrast seemed very striking between the ceremonious manner in
which he was conducted to the King, and the simple and unconventional
manner in which he was received by his Majesty.
Yesterday I asked for an audience with the Queen. The Marquise
Villamarina (the _Grande Maîtresse_) wrote that the Queen, though
desiring to see me, thought it better to defer the audience until after
the reception of the _Corps Diplomatique_, which was to take place in a
few days. I am rather glad of the few days of rest before the first of
January, as I am completely tired out.
_January, 1881._
Dear Mother,--The great event of the season has just taken place! The
_Corps Diplomatique_ has been received by their Majesties at the
Quirinal, and I have made my first official appearance and worn my
first court train. This splendid ceremony took place at two o'clock in
the afternoon, a rather trying time to be _décolletée_ and look your
best. In my letter from Paris I told you about my dress made by Worth.
It really is quite lovely--white brocade, with the tulle front--all
embroidered with iridescent beads and pearls. The _manteau de cour_ is
of white satin, trimmed with Valenciennes lace and ruches of chiffon. I
wore my diamond tiara, my pearls on my neck, and everything I owned in
the way of jewelry pinned on me somewhere.
Johan was in full gala uniform--the red one--on the back of which was
the chamberlain's key on the blue ribbon.
On arriving at the Quirinal we drove through the _porte-cochère_ and
stopped at the grand staircase, which was lined all the way up by the
tall and handsome guards, dressed in their brilliant uniforms.
We were received in the _salon_ adjoining the throne-room by the
Marquise Villamarina and the _Préfet du Palais_. In crossing this
_salon_ one lets one's train drag on the floor and proceeds,
peacock-like, toward the ballroom. It seems that this is the proper
thing to do, as it is expected of you to allow all beholders to admire
your train and to verify its length. It must be four and a half yards
long. I was told that the train of one of the diplomatic ladies last
year was not long enough, and she was officially reproached. She
excused herself by saying that she thought it would go "_that once_,"
but she found that it didn't go, and it was considered very
disrespectful of her to disregard the court's regulations.
On entering the ballroom you pick up your train and go to your
place--for every lady has her place according to her _ancienneté_. I,
being the wife of the newest Minister, was naturally at the very end,
and next to me was the newest Minister himself. While waiting for their
Majesties you let your train fall, and it lies in a heap at your left
side.
Behind each lady was a red-velvet _fauteuil_, in which she could rest
for a moment, if her colleagues would screen her from public view by
"closing up," according to military language. We did not, fortunately,
have long to wait. The doors were opened and their Majesties entered.
The ladies courtesied low, and the gentlemen bowed reverentially.
I was quite overcome by the Queen's dazzling beauty and regal presence.
She wore a beautiful dress of very pale salmon-colored satin,
embroidered in the same color. A red-velvet _manteau de cour_ covered
with heavy embossed silver embroidery hung from her shoulders. Her
jewels were handsomer than anything I had ever seen before, even more
magnificent than those of the Empress Eugénie. The King and Queen
separated. The King turned to the _doyen_ of the _Corps Diplomatique_,
talked a long time with him, and then passed on, having a word for each
gentleman, not overlooking even the youngest secretary.
The Queen went directly toward the Countess Wimphen, the _doyenne_,
and, holding out her hand, leaned forward as if to kiss her cheek. The
Ambassadress sank almost to the ground. Then the Queen talked with all
the Ambassadresses and to the Ministers' wives. Madame Westenberg, the
wife of the Minister from Holland, being the _plus ancienne_ of these,
stood, full of importance at the head of her flock. The Queen's ready
mind found something of interest to say to every one, and she seemed
brimming over with conversation. There were continual glances between
their Majesties, as if they were mutually comparing notes, which I
fancy were something like this, "You'd better hurry, or I shall finish
before you do."
Every time the Queen turned, Marquis Guiccioli (the Queen's
chamberlain) bent down to the ground and arranged her train, spreading
it out flat on the floor. When the Queen caught sight of me a smile of
recognition passed over her face, and when she gave me her hand she
said: "I am so glad to see you again, and so happy to know that we are
going to have you in Rome. I've never forgotten your singing. Your
voice is still ringing in my ears."
I answered, "I have never forgotten your Majesty's kindness to me when
I was here before."
"I remember so well," she said, "how beautifully you and the Marquise
Villamarina sang that duet from 'La Pavorita.' We shall have some music
later, I hope," and she added, "The King was delighted with Monsieur de
Hegermann."
I said that Monsieur de Hegermann was very much flattered by the King's
gracious manner when the King received him.
On leaving me the Queen crossed the room, directing her steps toward
the _doyen_ Ambassador. In the mean while the King came toward the
ladies, passing rapidly from one to the other. He made quick work of
us, as he did most of the talking himself, hardly ever waiting for an
answer.