I promised that I would try not to.

The _Grande Maîtresse_ came in, and I thought it was the signal for me

to go--which apparently it was. There was a little pause; then the

Queen held out her hand and said, "I hope to see you again very soon."

The King shook hands kindly with me, and I reached the antechamber,

escorted by the ladies.

My next audience was with the Crown Princess. She is the daughter of

the late King of Sweden (Carl XV.) and niece of the present King Oscar,

whom I used to know in Paris. This audience was not so ceremonious as

the one I had had with the Queen. There was only one lady-in-waiting,

who received me in the _salon_ adjoining that of the Princess. She

accompanied me to the door, presented me, and withdrew, leaving us

together. In the beginning the conversation palled somewhat. I had been

warned that it was not etiquette for me to start any subject of

conversation, though I might enlarge on it once it had been broached.

The Crown Princess was so kind as to speak of something which she

thought would interest me, and the conventional half-hour passed

pleasantly and quickly.

I had other audiences. The Queen Dowager, the widow of King Christian

VIII., lives in one of the four palaces in the square of Amalienborg.

She is very stately, and received me with great etiquette. She was

dressed in a stiff black brocade dress, with a white lace head-dress

over her bandeaux; she wore short, white, tight kid gloves. She spoke

French, and was most kind, telling me a great deal about Denmark and

its history, which interested me very much.

As Mademoiselle de Rosen, her first _dame d'honneur_, re-entered the

room I made my courtesy, kissed the Queen's hand, and the audience was

over.

Johan accompanied me to the fourth audience, which for me was the most

difficult one. It was with the Princess Caroline, widow of Prince

Ferdinand, brother of King Christian VIII., who died when he was

heir-apparent to the throne. She spoke only Danish to us, so I sat and

gazed about, not understanding a word she said to Johan.

She wore flaxen braids wound above her ears, through which the cotton

showed like the petal of a flower. She had a lace cap on her head with

long lace ends, and these caught in everything she wore--her

eye-glasses, her neck-chain, her rings and bracelets, and she seemed to

do nothing but try to extricate herself while talking. This she did

steadily, in order (I suppose) to prevent any one else from talking.

She is so deaf that she cannot hear a word. She had once been burned,

and the effects of that, with the mark of former smallpox, makes her

face look far from handsome. But all these things have not prevented

her from reaching the ripe old age of eighty.

Johan supplied what little there was of conversation on our side. She

asked him, "How did you come to Denmark?" He, enchanted to be asked

something he could answer, replied that he had come on one of the big

German boats, and, to accentuate the fact that it was something _big_

he came in, he made a wide circular movement with his arms and became

quite eloquent, flattering himself that he was very interesting. The

Princess fixed a pair of earnest eyes on him, and said, in hushed

tones, "And what became of the child?"

We took our leave. In stooping to kiss her Royal Highness's hand her

cap caught in an ornament I had on my bonnet, and there we stood tied

together. Johan tried in vain to undo us, but was obliged to call in

the lady-in-waiting, who finally disentangled us.

DENMARK, _January, 1878_.

Dear Mother,--The Queen of Denmark is an adorable and lovely queen. I

am happy to call her _my_ Queen.

A few days after my audience we were invited to a dinner at

Amalienborg. We met in the _salon_, before their Majesties came in.

When they had made a little _cercle_ and said a word to every one,

dinner was announced. The King gave one arm to the Queen and the other

to the Princess Anne of Hesse--the Queen's sister-in-law. The King and

the Queen sat next to each other. There were about forty people at

table. Admiral Bille took me in; he talked English perfectly, and

was--like all naval officers!--very charming.

The Queen said to me: "I should so like to hear you sing. Will you come

to-morrow? I will send my carriage for you, and please don't forget to

bring some music."

As if I should forget! I was only too delighted.

The next morning the Queen sent her own coupé for me at eleven o'clock.

I felt very grand; all the people in the street bowed and courtesied,

thinking I was one of the royal family. I let down the glasses on both

sides of the coupé so that every one could have a chance to bow.

I was at once ushered into the Queen's _salon_ by an old red-liveried

majordomo who had many decorations on his breast. The Queen was alone

with the _Grande Maîtresse_, and after having talked a little she said,

"Now we'll have some music," and led the way into the ballroom, where

there were two pianos. The Queen sat on the sofa, wearing an expression

that was half pre-indulgent and half expectant. The _Grande Maîtresse_,

who was there, _not_ in her official character, but as a musician,

accompanied me when I sang "_Voi che sapete_." When I came to the

phrase, "_Non trovo pace notte ne di_," the Queen raised her hand to

her eyes, which were filled with tears, and after I had finished, said,

"Please sing another."

I spread out the music of "Biondina" in front of the eye-glasses of the

_Grande Maîtresse_, but the first bars convinced me that if I were to

sing _that_ song, _she_ was not to play it, and, against all etiquette,

I placed my hands over hers and gently pushed her off the seat, saying,

"May I?"

I confess I deserved the daggers she looked at me, but the Queen only

laughed and said, "You are quite right; you must play _that_ for

yourself."

The Queen seemed to be delighted, and after some more music I returned

to the hotel in the same regal manner I had come.

COPENHAGEN, _February, 1878_.

Dear Mother,--Some days have passed between this and my last letter,

but I have been very busy. I have tried to do some sight-seeing--there

are many interesting and enchanting things to see here. Then I have had

a great many visits to pay, and I go often to sing with the Queen.

Yesterday I lunched at the palace. The Queen had said to me before:

"When you come to me, come straight to my room. Don't bother about

going first to the _dames d'honneur_. The servant has orders."

So yesterday, when I arrived, the old decorated servant who sits in the

antechamber simply opened the door of the Queen's private apartments,

where I found her and the Princess Thyra alone.

The Queen said, "You will stay to luncheon, will you not?" I hesitated,

as we had invited some friends to lunch with us, but that was evidently

no obstacle. She said: "Never mind that. I will send word to your

husband that I have kept you." Of course I stayed. We had a great deal

of music. I sang "Beware" for the first time. The Queen said, "Oh, the

King must hear that," and rang the bell, sending the servant to beg

Prince Valdemar to come in.

On his appearing, the Queen said, "Valdemar, you must tell papa that he

must come." Prince Valdemar soon returned, saying, "Papa has lumbago,

and says he cannot come." The Queen shook her head, evidently not

believing in the lumbago, and said, "Lumbago or not, papa _must_ come,

even if we have to _bring_ him."

The King came without being "brought," and I sang "Beware" for him, and

then "_Ma mère était bohémienne_," the Queen accompanying me in both.

"Now," said the Queen, "please sing that song which you play for

yourself--the one with such a dash." She meant "Biondina."

"Please, madame," said the King, when I had finished, "sing 'Beware'

again."

Then we went down a little side-staircase for luncheon. The dining-room

is quite small and looks out upon the square. The table could not have

seated more than twelve people. Besides the King and Queen, there were

Prince Hans and Prince Wilhelm (brothers of the King), Prince Valdemar,

Princess Thyra, and myself. There were no ladies or gentlemen in

waiting, except the King's adjutant.

On a side-table were the warm meats, vegetables, and several cold

dishes. No servants were allowed in the room. It is the only meal when

the family are quite alone together; the serving was all done by the

royalties themselves. I felt quite shy when the King proposed to shell

my shrimps for me! "Oh, your Majesty," I said, "I can do that myself!"

"No," said he, "I am sure you cannot. At any rate, not as it ought to

be done."

He was quite right. I never could have done it so dexterously as he

did. He took the shells off and put the shrimps on some bread--they

looked like little pink worms. I did not dare to get up and serve

myself at the side-table, and rather than be waited on by royalty I

preferred eating little and going away hungry.

The King was very gay. He asked me how I was getting on with my Danish.

I told him some of my mistakes, at which they all laughed.

COPENHAGEN, _February, 1878_.

Dear Mother,--After our music and luncheon the other day at the palace

the Queen asked me if I would like to drive with her to see Bernstorff

Castle, where they spend their summers. I accepted the invitation with

delight. To drive with her was bliss indeed.

Bernstorff is about an hour's drive from Copenhagen. When the open

landau appeared in the _porte-cochère_ the Queen got in; I sat on her

left and the lady of honor sat opposite. The Danish royal livery is a

bright red covered with braid. The coachman's coat has many red capes,

one on top of the other, looking like huge pen-wipers. J. had told me

it was not etiquette for any one driving with the Queen to bow. We

happened to pass J. walking with a friend of his, and it seemed odd

that I was obliged to cut him dead.

When people see the Queen's carriage coming they stop their own, and

the ladies get out on the sidewalk and make deep courtesies. Gentlemen

bow very low and stand holding their hats in their hands until the

royal carriage has passed.

The castle of Bernstorff is neither large nor imposing, but looks

home-like and comfortable. The Queen showed me all over it--her private

rooms, and even upstairs where her _atelier_ is; she paints

charmingly--as well as she plays the piano.

She pointed out on the window-panes of a room over the principal _salon_

different things that her daughters had written with their diamond

rings on the glass: "Farewell, my beautiful clouds!--Alexandra." "Till

the next time.--Dagmar." "_A bientôt_--Willie" (the young King of

Greece).[1]

[1] King George of Greece who was assassinated in 1913.

She told me that Bernstorff was the first home she and the King had

lived in after their marriage, when he was Prince, and they love it so

much that they prefer it to the larger castles. They go to Fredensborg

in the autumn. The Grand-Duchess Dagmar and the Princess of Wales, when

they come to Bernstorff in the summer, sleep in the room which they

shared as children.

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