He replied by asking, "Have you ever heard a nightingale, ma'm?"

"Oh yes, many times," I answered, wondering what he would say next.

"Wal, I guess some of them nightingales will have to take a back seat

when she sings."

I actually blushed with pride. I considered this was the greatest

compliment I had ever had.

We arrived safely, without any adventure, at Sacramento, where John

Cadwalader left us, and the rest of the party continued as far as

Chicago together, where we bade each other good-by, each going his

different way.

CAMBRIDGE, _June, 1877_.

My dear Sister,--Sarah Bernhardt is playing in Boston now, much to

Boston's delight. I went to see her at the Tremont House, where she is

staying. She looked enchanting, and was dressed in her most

characteristic manner, in a white dress with a border of fur. Fancy, in

this heat! She talked about Paris, her latest successes, asked after

Nina, and finally--what I wanted most to know--her impressions of

America.

This is her first visit. I found that she seemed to be cautious about

expressing her opinions. She said she was surprised to see how many

people in America understood French. "Really?" I answered. "It did not

strike me so the other evening when I heard you in 'La Dame aux

Camelias.'" "I don't mean the public," she replied. "It apparently

understands very little, and the turning of the leaves of the librettos

distracts me so much that I sometimes forget my rôle. At any rate, I

wait till the leaves have finished rustling. But in society," she

added, "I find that almost every one who is presented to me talks very

good French." "Well," I answered, "if Boston didn't speak French I

should be ashamed of it." She laughed. "Sometimes," she said, "they do

make curious mistakes. I am making note of all I can remember. They

will be amusing in the book I am writing. A lady said to me, 'What I

admire the most in you, madame, _c'est votre température_.'" She meant

"temperament." "What did you answer to that?" I asked. "I said, '_Oui,

madame, il fait très chaud_,' which fell unappreciated."

She is bored with reporters, who besiege her from morning till night.

One--a woman--who sat with note-book in hand for ages ("_une éternité_"

she said) reporting, the next day sent her the newspaper in which a

column was filled with the manner she treated her nails. Not one word

about "_mon art_"! "Some of my _admirateurs_" she said, "pay their

fabulous compliments through an interpreter." She thought this was

ridiculous. When I got up to leave she said, "_Chère_ madame, you know

Mr. Longfellow?" "Yes," I replied, "very well." "Could you not arrange

that I might make his bust? You can tell him that you know my work, and

that I can do it if he will let me."

I told her that I would try. She was profuse in her thanks in

anticipation, but, alas! Mr. Longfellow, when I spoke to him, turned a

cold shoulder on the idea. He begged me to assure Sarah Bernhardt

nothing would have given him more pleasure, but, with a playful wink,

"I am leaving for Portland in a few days, and I am afraid she will have

left Boston when I come back"--thus cutting the Gordian (k)_not_ with a

snap. But, evidently regretting his curtness, he said, "Tell her if she

is at liberty to-morrow I will offer her a cup of tea." Then he added:

"You must come and chaperon me. It would not do to leave me alone with

such a dangerous and captivating visitor." He invited Mr. Howells and

Oliver Wendell Holmes to meet her. I wrote to Sarah Bernhardt what the

result of my interview was and gave the invitation. She sent back a

short "I will come." The next afternoon I met her at Mr. Longfellow's.

When we were drinking our tea she said, "_Cher_ M. Longfellow, I would

like so much to have made your bust, but I am so occupied that I really

have not the time." And he answered her in the most suave manner, "I

would have been delighted to sit for you, but, unfortunately, I am

leaving for the country to-morrow." How clever people are!

Mr. Longfellow speaks French like a native. He said: "I saw you the

other evening in 'Phèdre.' I saw Rachel in it fifty years ago, but you

surpass her. You are magnificent, for you are _plus vivante_. I wish I

could make my praises vocal--_chanter vos louanges_."

"I wish that you could make _me_ vocal," she said. "How much finer my

Phèdre would be if I could sing, and not be obliged to depend upon some

horrible soprano behind the scenes!"

"You don't need any extra attraction," Mr. Longfellow said. "I wish I

could make you feel what I felt."

"You can," she said, "and you do--by your poetry."

"Can you read my poetry?"

"Yes. I read your 'He-a-vatere.'"

"My--Oh yes--'Hiawatha.' But you surely do not understand that?"

"Yes, yes, indeed I do," she said. "_Chaque mot_."

[Illustration:

HENRY W. LONGFELLOW]

[Illustration:

JAMES G. BLAINE

When Speaker of the House of Representatives.]

"You are wonderful," he said, and fearing that she might be tempted to

recite "_chaque mot_" of his "Hiawatha," hastened to present Mr.

Holmes, who was all attention.

At last the tea-party came to an end. We all accompanied her to her

carriage, and as she was about to get in she turned with a sudden

impulse, threw her arms round Mr. Longfellow's neck, and said, "_Vous

étes adorable_," and kissed him on his cheek. He did not, seem

displeased, but as she drove away he turned to me and said, "You see I

did need a chaperon."

Johan has just come home from Boston, bringing incredible stories

about having talked in a machine called telephone. It was nothing but a

wire, one end in Boston and the other end in Cambridge. He said he

could hear quite plainly what the person in Cambridge said. Mr. Graham

Bell, our neighbor, has invented this. How wonderful it must be! He has

put up wires about Boston, but not farther than Cambridge--yet. He was

ambitious enough to suggest Providence. "What!" cried the members of

the committee. "You think you can talk along a wire in the air over

that distance?" "Let me just try it," said Bell. "I will bear half the

expense of putting up the wire if you will bear the other half."

He was ultra-convinced of his success when, on talking to his brother

in Cambridge from Boston in order to invite him to dinner, adding,

"Bring your mother-in-law," he heard, distinctly but feebly, the old

lady's voice: "Good gracious! Again! What a bore!"

There is also another invention, called phonograph, where the human

voice is reproduced, and can go on for ever being reproduced. I sang in

one through a horn, and they transposed this on a platina roll and

wound it off. Then they put it on another disk, and I heard my

voice--for the first time in my life. If that is my voice, I don't want

to hear it again! I could not believe that it could be so awful! A

high, squeaky, nasal sound; I was ashamed of it. And the faster the man

turned the crank the higher and squeakier the voice became. The

intonation--the pronunciation--I could recognize as my own, but the

_voice_!... Dear me!

[_Johan, desiring me to know his family, suggested that we spend the

Christmas holidays in Denmark, and we arrived safely after a slow and

very stormy voyage._]

"BJÖRNEMOSE," _December 20, 1877_.

Dear Mother,--Denmark looks very friendly under its mantle of snow,

glistening with its varnish of ice. It is lovely weather. The sun

shines brightly, but it is as cold as Greenland. They tell me it is a

very mild winter. Compared with Alaska, it may be! The house, which is

heated only by large porcelain stoves, is particularly cold. These

stoves are filled with wood in the early morning, and when the wood is

burned out they shut the door and the porcelain tiles retain the

heat--still, the ladies all wear shawls over their shoulders and

shiver. I go and lean my back up against the huge white monument, but

this is not considered good form.

The Baltic Sea, which is at the foot of the snow-covered lawn, is

filled with floating ice. It must be lovely here in the summer, when

one can see the opposite shores of Thuro across the blue water.

My new family, taken singly and collectively, is delightful. I shall

tell you later about the dear, genial General--my father-in-law--the

kind mother, and the three devoted sisters. _Now_ I shall only

write--as I promised you--my _first_ impressions.

We live in a manner which is, I fancy, called "patriarchal," and which

reminds me continually of Frederika Bremer's book called _Home_. A

great many things in the way of food are new to me. For instance, there

is a soup made of beer, brown bread, and cream, and another made of the

insides of a goose, with its long neck and thin legs, boiled with

prunes, apples, and vinegar. Then rice porridge is served as soup and

mixed with hot beer, cinnamon, butter, and cream. These all seem very

queer, but they taste very good, I asked for oatmeal porridge, but I

was told that oatmeal was used only for cataplasms. Corn is known only

as ornamental shrubbery, and tomatoes, alas! are totally unknown.

Every one I have met so far has been most kind and hospitable. We have

been invited out to dinner several times. I will describe the first

one, which was unique as a _début_.

The distances are enormous between country houses in this land; and, as

the hour named for dinner was six o'clock, we had to begin dressing in

the afternoon at the early hour of three. At four we were packed in the

family landau, with a mountain of rugs and different things to keep our

feet warm. We jogged along the hard, slippery highroad at a monotonous

pace; and, as it is dark at four o'clock, nothing could have been more

conducive to slumber and peaceful dreams. Finally we arrived. Every one

was standing up when we entered the _salon_. There seemed to be a great

number of people. I was presented to all the ladies, and the gentlemen

were brought up one by one and named to me. They bowed, shook my hand,

and retired. I noticed that all the ladies wore long trailing

skirts--lilac or gray--and had real flowers in their hair and on their

bosoms. Dinner was announced. Then there came a pause. The host and the

hostess were looking about for some one to undertake _me_--some one who

could _tale Engelsk_ (talk English). Finally they decided upon a lank,

spectacled gentleman, who offered me his arm and took me in.

My father-in-law, who was the person highest in rank, sat on the left

of the hostess. I thought this peculiar, but such is the custom here.

From the moment we sat down until we rose from the table my

English-speaking friend never stopped talking. He told me he had

learned my language when a boy, but had forgotten a great deal; if he

had said he had forgotten it entirely he would have been nearer the

truth.

He wanted to tell me the family history of a gentleman opposite us, and

began by saying: "Do you see that gentleman? He has been washing you

all the time."

"Washing me?" I exclaimed. "What do you mean?"

"Yes, the one with the gray hairs and the bird."

The Sunny Side of Diplomatic Life, 1875-1912 · 第 56 / 126 题