CHAPTER XV

THE EMIGRANT IN LIGHT AND SHADE

There is a popular story in Buenos Ayres of a Spanish emigrant who had

just arrived with wife and children, and as the group was crossing the

Paseo de Julio, the wife espied a silver coin in the gutter. She called

to her husband to pick it up, but he disdainfully answered, “I have no

concern with mere silver money, when I have come here to gather gold!”

The story usually ends here, but I suspect the frugal wife of picking up

that coin herself and thereby making money more easily than her husband

would be like to do for some time to come. For certain it is that the

Argentine is no “land of gold,” such as our world has had to marvel at

in California, Australia, South Africa, and Alaska. No,—it is something

better than any merely auriferous land! So rich is its soil, it returns

to those who work it such wondrous increase of harvest that it is truly

an inexhaustible gold mine. But the first and final essential to the

winning of its gold is Labour. This, as we know, Italy has given to the

Argentine in abundant measure, and those who only know the Italian by

such specimens of his race as grind organs and sell ice-cream in England,

have no least, small notion of what a splendid fellow he is, his many

vices notwithstanding.

Before we take a look at the different classes of emigrants which the

Argentine attracts and their influence on the development of the

country, a word or two on the land system may be in place. The time will

come, I doubt not, when some revolutionary change will be forced upon the

country, as the land is too closely held by the landed aristocracy—the

multitudes of small lots sold by speculative dealers notwithstanding. In

this young country, with its Republican Government and its progressive

ideas, we encounter the anomaly of a mere handful of fabulously wealthy

proprietors owning the greatest part of a vast country—nearly eight

times larger than the British Isles. Meanwhile, these prodigious tracts

of territory being so tightly held by a few private owners, have the

effect of increasing the values of the negotiable land, of which there

is evidently still sufficient to meet the demands of the moment. Double

the population, however, and such a change will pass over the scene that

legislation to force the hands of private owners and loosen their grip on

the lion’s share of the Republic’s soil will be inevitable.

The system on which the land is worked is also charged with danger to

the social development of the community, and some day it, too, must give

place to a better adjustment as between the owner and the worker. I have

made frequent reference in previous chapters to the estancias, without

entering into any detail as to the working of these great agricultural

estates, which, curiously enough, are known by the Spanish word for a

dwelling-house or a sitting-room (_estancia_ in South America means

either a farm, a country house, or the whole area of landed property

under one ownership). Here, however, I must explain something of the

peculiar methods of working these estates.

The owner himself will cultivate at his own cost a certain portion with

alfalfa, wheat, maize, or linseed, as the case may be, and will maintain

immense herds of cattle, sheep, and horses, according as he specialises

in agriculture or in live-stock. But the estancias are usually much too

large for their owners to develop to their full extent, and thus have

grown up two methods of co-operation, neither of which has in it the

germ of permanency, both being based on one man’s need and another’s

opportunity. The one system is worked by the _medieros_, the other by

the _colonos_. The mediero is a man who has come out from Spain or

Italy with some tiny capital in his pocket that enables him to purchase

certain agricultural implements, seeds, and probably to knock up a

shanty of corrugated iron,—wood for building purposes being a highly

priced commodity. But he cannot afford to purchase agricultural land in

any locality where his crop would be of adequate value to him once he

had raised it, for wherever the land is within reachable distance of a

railway line, it is impossible to purchase it at anything like its actual

market value, the method of the Argentine land-seller being invariably to

demand the price which the land may be worth in ten or fifteen years. The

land-vender takes “long views,” he is big with the future, so confident

of it that he values his possessions of to-day at the dream prices of a

somewhat distant morrow. Now, the mediero cannot come to grips with such

as he, and cap in hand he approaches the estanciero, offering in return

for the right to work so many acres of his land, to “go halves” with him

in expenses and in profits—hence mediero, or “halver.”

The colono (colonist) is a genuine knight of the empty purse, with

nothing to offer save his labour and that of his wife and children; but

_that_ is a great thing, and he is received with open arms throughout the

length and breadth of the Argentine. The estanciero not only grants him

as many acres of land as he may be able to work with his wife and family,

but lends him cows for milk, horses for the plough, and through his

_almacén_ supplies to him on credit the necessary implements, seeds, and

food, as well as corrugated iron and planks of wood for the building of

his _rancho_. It should be explained that the almacén on every estancia

is an important institution, a sort of universal provider for the

hundreds of medieros and colonos who have taken up land on the estate,

selling to them all sorts of commodities at a substantial profit to the

estanciero. The “colonist” is now expected to labour incessantly on the

land allotted to him, so that he may repay to the almacén the pretty

heavy debt he has contracted there, while an agreed percentage of his

crops will go to the owner of the estate.

These medieros and colonos include all nationalities, but are chiefly

drawn from the Italian emigrants, the Spaniards being more commonly

tradesmen. Everything looks _couleur de rose_ to the poor toilers; they

set about their task with high hope, a new feeling of freedom, little

recking that they have tied themselves to a new serfdom by the bond

of that initial debt with which they start. The mediero has a better

chance than the colono of “turning the corner” soon, and it too often

happens that the latter, after two or three years of incessant labour,

has no more than cleared his feet, when comes a bad harvest, and he is

back where he was at the beginning. Withered are his roses, poor fellow.

Disgusted at the result, and hoping that a change to some other part of

the country may turn out for the better, he disposes of the few things he

owns, quits his “camp,” and shifts to some other quarter, perhaps only to

repeat this chapter of his history.

Meanwhile, it will be seen the estanciero has had another corner of

his estate brought into cultivation, its value considerably increased

thereby, and the poor Italians have spent their strength for a bare

subsistence. That many of them do succeed in earning some profit,

especially those of the mediero class, and starting in some other

business, is undeniable; but the roll of those who have turned over the

soil of the Argentine and brought it into bearing to the great benefit of

its owners, and their own non-success is, I am told, beyond reckoning.

This, then, I submit, is no system that can endure. It carries its own

seeds of decay. So long as the stream of immigration flows as steadily as

of recent years, the system will doubtless continue, but a time will come

when disappear it must, and some method of employment based on a fairer

distribution of profits, or on adequate wages, take its place.

Apart from the ethics of the Argentine land system, which are clearly

open to criticism, one can have nothing but praise for the manner in

which emigration is officially encouraged, and the way in which the

emigrants are handled on arrival at the River Plate. There is a fine

saying reported of President Sáenz Peña when he represented his country

at the Pan-American Congress in Washington on the occasion of the fourth

centenary of the discovery of America. In the course of a speech he was

making, some fervid Pan-American thought it a fit occasion to interject

the watchword, “America for the Americans”! Quick as a flash Dr. Sáenz

Peña retorted, “Yes, but Latin America for humanity!”

This certainly is the spirit that informs the policy of Argentine

immigration. A hearty welcome is given to people of all races, whose only

right of entry into this new land of promise is the possession of brawny

muscles and the will to work. Every week they are arriving in ship-loads,

and the manner in which these cargoes of humanity are received at the

docks in Buenos Ayres and speedily transhipped by rail to different parts

of the interior, according to the demand for _brazos_, is one of the most

businesslike things the visitor will have an opportunity of noting in the

public administration. Ship-load after ship-load of Italians, Spaniards,

Portuguese, and other nationalities arrives and melts away, absorbed into

the thirsty country like water into sandy soil.

[Illustration: A “RODEO,” OR ROUND-UP OF CATTLE IN THE ARGENTINE PAMPA.]

During our stay, a splendidly equipped hostel, or shelter, was opened

for the emigrants. Erected by the riverside close to the scene of their

disembarkation, this building is capable of sheltering a large number

of newcomers. Sleeping-rooms fitted with wire mattresses upon which

the emigrants may place their own bedding (always the most precious

of their personal possessions) are provided for the men, and similar

accommodation for the women and children. There is no excuse for any

of them to go unbathed, lavatories specially fitted with showers being

provided for those who care to use them (the superintendent told me it

was seldom that an emigrant ventured on such an experiment), while in the

great common dining-room they may take their meals in comparative comfort

and can secure eatables at a low rate. The accommodation, if I remember

correctly, is free, and the whole place is so admirably clean that it

must come with something like a shock to most of the emigrants who pass

through it, habituated as they have been, almost without exception, to

dirty ways of life in their native lands. Many of the emigrants never see

Buenos Ayres at all, as the trains that take them into the Camp pick them

up at a short distance from the vessels which have borne them oversea,

and at the very doors of the shelter where they may have passed the night

of arrival.

Laughter and tears mingle a good deal in the landing of these poor people

from the Old World. Huddled almost like cattle in the steerage of the

steamers, their condition at sea presents what seems an unbridgable

abyss between their lives and those of the saloon passengers. Day after

day I have watched them sitting aimlessly on deck in their dirty, faded

clothes, the effluvia from the mass of them, even tempered by the sea

breeze, suggesting conditions of horror when they “turned in” at night,

that might recall the Black Hole of Calcutta. The captain assured me it

was not so very bad, but I never had the stomach to prove it for myself.

Yet, on the morning of arrival at Buenos Ayres, what a transformation!

Girls who have seemed the dirtiest of sluts throughout the voyage step

down the gangway quite neatly attired. The married women, tricked out

with little bits of finery, the men mostly in suits of black, with sombre

soft hats, and every Spaniard armed with an ample umbrella, are difficult

to recognise as the slovenly creatures one has seen for weeks feeding out

of tins and using fingers, for lack of knives and forks. But even among

the emigrants there are many grades, and not all are able to make this

sudden transformation, many having no more than the soiled and shabby

garments in which they have made their voyage, a little handkerchief tied

at the corners being a pathetic index of their worldly gear. But even

from among these, there will be some that one day shall bridge that awful

gulf between the steerage and saloon, and make a voyage home as cabin

passengers to advertise the magic Argentine!

Hope is the prevailing note in the demeanour of every new batch of

fortune-seekers. It shines brightest, perhaps, in the eyes of the alert

and wiry little Italians; the Spaniards, also, step ashore with a firm

and confident tread, but mostly among the Poles, the Bulgars, and the

Russians do we see the dull look of something very like despair. In

discussing the character of the emigrants with M. Huret, Señor Alsina, a

former Director of the Emigration Service, remarked:

What surprises one most in the careful observation of these

people from the four extremes of Europe is the rapidity of

their transformation, Spaniards from Galicia, brutish and

wretched, sordid Jews from Russia, lift up their heads

(_levantan la cabeza_) at the end of a few months. I have seen

them arrive bent and downcast, with all the timidity of a dog

that has been badly treated, so dejected and timorous, indeed,

that I thought it necessary to engage some Russian students to

lecture them on the dignity of humanity in general, and the

conditions of liberty which they could enjoy in the Argentine.

A few months afterwards, seeing many of them again, I could

observe that they had so entirely changed that they had become

argumentative, noisy, and given to discussion.

The case of the Armenians is in this respect entirely typical.

Some eighteen years ago they arrived here for the first time.

Becoming pedlars, they travelled all over the Pampa, some with

“bundles” on their backs, others pushing before them their

wares. Little by little they made money, even growing rich.

Many of them went in for politics, and to-day occupy positions

of influence in the public life. Very active in business, they

are in a fair way to surpass the Italians in the retail trade.

Proud of their title as free citizens, they refuse to sell

their vote, which is the common practice among the populace,

and their prosperity is so real, so positive, that the Armenian

Colony is offering to the Argentine a monument which will cost

them 120,000 francs.

I am afraid that appearances are very much inclined to be deceptive in

studying the faces of emigrants. Surely there are none who can look more

dejected than the Armenians and the Poles, who closely resemble each

other in facial appearance, yet the money-making potentialities of these

sad-faced emigrants are relatively much higher than those of the merry,

little, guitar-strumming Italians and Spaniards.

On the arrival of every new contingent, there is always a considerable

group of friends awaiting the vessel, and fortunate are they who have

come out on the initiative of some relative that has gone before and

prepared the way. These emigrants of yesterday, who have already come to

grips with fortune and won the first bout, form one of the pleasantest

features of the disembarkations, as they stand on the quayside in

their “Sunday best,” with their watch chains, tie pins, finger rings,

and highly polished boots to announce to all the world that they are

“getting on.” This friendly co-operation is of immense service to the

Emigration Bureau, and is really a sounder sort of propaganda than the

familiar widecast publishing of alluring pictures of the riches of the

country and the ease with which fortunes may be made. The emigrant who

comes because a brother or a friend has already substantially changed

his condition, and will have the advice of that friend to help him in

securing employment, is at least on sure ground, and where labour is in

such demand he cannot well make a mistake, provided he is willing to work.

In this way have grown up the distinctive “colonies” throughout the

country, the majority of the Russians making direct for the neighbourhood

of Bahía Blanca, where their services as agricultural labourers and as

craftsmen are in high demand; the Turks and Syrians concentrating in a

district of Buenos Ayres, where they seem to engage in every variety

of occupation in which there is a minimum of creative work and the

possibility of profiting as middle-men by the labour of others. A great

many French find their way to Mendoza, the centre of the wine-growing,

in which business not a few have become masters of millions. The German

emigration is of more recent origin, and embraces, like the French, a

superior class of people, as well as supplying a modicum to the toiling

community. Although all the emigrants, save the Spanish, are at first

conditioned in their occupations and their localities by their ignorance

of the native language, so that they must needs go where they find their

fellow-countrymen and more or less follow the pursuits in which these are

engaged, they speedily pick up the language, and once acclimatised and

furnished with the means of universal intercourse, they begin to look

around, weigh up the possibilities of the country, and strike out their

independent courses. In this movement, the British have practically no

part whatever, and with the exceptions of the scanty Irish emigration of

past years and the Welsh colony settled, with very equivocal success, on

the River Chubut some twenty years ago, the annals of the British in the

Argentine present no parallel whatever to those of the other European

nations.

When we talk of Argentine emigration, we refer chiefly to the Italian

and the Spanish, though the Basque provinces of France and Spain have

probably supplied the very finest element of foreign blood in the

Argentine nation to-day. Italy is sending from eighty to a hundred

thousand of her sturdy sons to swell the Argentine population every

year. The newcomers from Italy each year number about 200,000, but in

these later years there has been a very considerable movement towards

repatriation among the Italians and also among the Spaniards, so that

there is an offset of at least 50 per cent. for re-emigration. The

Italian who does not determine to make his home in the Argentine is

quickly satisfied with a comparatively small amount of savings. Once he

has netted from $1000 to $2500, he considers himself a man of independent

means, and is apt to return to his native village with his tiny fortune,

which will enable him there to live far more comfortably than he has been

existing in the Argentine, and to enjoy a life of comparative leisure.

The call of the Homeland is always very strong to the Italian, and if

he acquires his little fortune quickly, before his family have become

thoroughly Argentine in character and sentiment, he will almost surely

go back. The hundreds of thousands of his race who are fixed and rooted

in the Republic are they who, either through superior fortune have come

to hold such a stake in the land, or from longer delay in “turning the

corner” and the influence of their children, have become habituated to

their new environment.

The quickest fortunes, the easiest gained wealth, assuredly do not come

to those who take up the life of the colono or the mediero, as above

described, for there are innumerable other ways in which money can be

made more readily, and those who engage in shopkeeping—always a superior

class to the tillers of the soil, as they require some little capital for

a start—as well as the many Spaniards who enter the already established

business houses, are in more immediate touch with money-making

possibilities than the _braceros_. It is always thus, that they who are

of least use in the economical development of the country should be most

speedily rewarded.

I heard of an Italian waiter, who arrived in Buenos Ayres some time

in November of 1911 and immediately went on to Mar del Plata, the

fashionable seaside resort, where he readily secured a situation in one

of the hotels. In one month he netted a thousand pesos in “tips,” and

with this vast sum ($420) he incontinently returned to his native country

in order to purchase a piece of land and set up as a small farmer! A

coachman, also an Italian, whose services I occasionally employed during

our stay in Buenos Ayres, informed me that he was making a clear profit

of 600 pesos (or $252) per month. The coach, a very handsome one, and the

horse, a splendid animal, were his own property, and so careful was he of

his coach that he did not care to bring it out on very sunny days, lest

the upholstery might fade, while he disliked driving on very wet days,

so that he suited his own convenience as to the hours and days of work!

Withal, he was speedily acquiring a competence. He assured me he drank

as good wine as he got at home, and if he did not eat so well, it was

because nobody did in the Argentine, owing to the difficulty of getting

good food at reasonable prices. He also had been a waiter, but evidently

had his eye on a higher mark than his compatriot who hastened back from

Mar del Plata with his first month’s gratuities.

I do not doubt that if one had gone about, notebook in hand, collecting

experiences from all sorts and conditions of people who had emigrated to

the country, no end of “human interest” stories could have been obtained.

Such as I came by, however, were the fruit of casual conversations, and

the absence of the British and North Americans from the emigration

movement was probably the reason why I did not study it in more than its

broadest aspects. To follow it here in detail would involve so much in

the way of comparative statistics, that I make no apology for touching

the subject in the most sketchy, but I hope not unsuggestive, manner.

I did receive, after leaving Buenos Ayres, some copies of the _Herald_

containing a long and interesting correspondence, originated by an

Englishman in Buenos Ayres, entitled “Is Argentina as Bright as it is

Painted?” Some excellent letters were written by Britishers while the

correspondence continued, and although the Mr. Q’s and Mr. F’s could not

allow the occasion to pass without casting a stone at the unworthy land

of their birth, the whole weight of opinion was in tune with what I have

written. If anything, most of the writers went further, and some even

piously called upon the Almighty to protect the wretched English workman

whose lot it was to live in such places as Bahía Blanca and Rosario.

Personally, I must confess that I have seen worse places to live in than

Rosario, and even considerably worse than Bahía Blanca. I have been in

Antofagasta!

But enough of the British in this connection, for they certainly do not

amount to anything of real consequence in the sum total of Argentine

immigration, the Americans to still less.[2] What is to be noticed,

however, is a very distinct forward movement among the Germans. The

German has come rather late in the day to discover the Britisher very

thoroughly established in all branches of commerce throughout the

Republic. But, undismayed, the German has set himself to the task of

undermining British supremacy, laying his plans to capture a large share

of future business. There is, of course, no comparison in sheer bulk

between the German and the Italian immigration, as the number of Germans

arriving in the Argentine in 1912 was only 4,337, (to which we might add

6,545 Austrians) against 165,662 Italians. But in the smaller Teutonic

group lay greater money-making possibilities than in the Latin horde.

These Germans represent all classes of the community; there are quite a

few titled Teutons engaged in business in Buenos Ayres to-day. They are

developing their banking connection throughout the Republic with great

energy; German manufacturers are establishing branches everywhere; German

clerks are flooding into all sorts of businesses, their superior working

qualities to the Spaniard, their readiness to accept the lowest wages

that will support an existence, and their ability to acquire speedily the

language of the country, being all sound reasons for the ready demand

for their services. The competition of these German clerks will soon

change the complexion of the office staffs of the railways, for they

are even supplanting the British employees, and, if the cold truth must

be told, they are really better employees. One seldom meets a German

who cannot at least contrive to make himself understood in English, and

who, although seldom speaking the Spanish language with grace or correct

pronunciation, will not in a few months be able to converse in it with a

fair degree of fluency.

In addition to those different classes of Teutonic invaders come the

hand-workers—engineers, carpenters, builders, agricultural labourers. In

considerable numbers these work people, who share the ability of their

compatriots in the acquiring of languages, are filtering all over the

Argentine and in certain districts of the southwest, especially around

the celebrated Lake Nahuel Huapi, some thirteen hundred miles distant

from the capital, there are entire settlements of German farmers, with

their native school-teachers and Protestant missionaries. In fine, the

Germanising of the Argentine has begun, and if it is still far from

attaining the dimensions it has already assumed in Chili, I do not doubt

that a day is coming when the German will have ousted the British, the

French, and the Italian from their present supremacy in their respective

fields, although never likely to compete with Britain or France in

the matter of invested capital. At the time of writing, it is evident

that there is a further movement to encourage German enterprise in the

Argentine. I read in the London _Times_ this morning that the Kaiser’s

brother, Prince Henry of Prussia, accompanied by his Princess and suite,

are sailing on an official visit to the Republic in one of the fine new

passenger steamers with which the Germans are successfully competing

against the British lines for South Atlantic trade.

It is not to be supposed, although I have emphasised the fact that the

Italian immigration is essentially a movement of unskilled labour,

that it is exclusively so. For the Argentine offers to the observer a

very remarkable lesson in the industrial progress of Italy, which may

entirely escape him in his travels in Italy itself. To encounter at every

step, as one does wherever one goes throughout the Argentine, the most

persistent evidences of Italian enterprise in every branch of commerce,

is to discover the Italian in an entirely new light. Most of us are

in the habit of going to Italy to look at old things, to revel in the

glories of her past, and are apt to come away from Rome, or Florence, or

Venice, and especially from Naples, with an impression of bygone grandeur

and lingering poverty. It is true that we must set against this the

evidence of her prosperity and modern activity, which we find in Milan

and in Turin; but, on the whole, our popular notion of Italy is that of a

country living mainly on its past.

The Italian in the Argentine will speedily dispel this. Not only does he

supply the strong arms that are tilling the soil of countless leagues,

but he maintains many of the great importing establishments in Buenos

Ayres and the principal towns. Italian engineering agencies and workshops

abound. A large proportion of the splendid motor cars that crowd the

streets of the capital hail from Italy. Some of the finest chemists’

establishments are Italian. Not only are Italian workmen vastly in the

majority on all building operations, but very often Italian brains are

directing the whole undertaking; Italian contractors are paving the

streets. In short, Italy stands forth in the life of the Argentine to-day

as a magnificent industrial and commercial force, supported by the

wide-spreading base of Italian emigrant labour.

There is also a very large traffic between the two countries in casual

labour, ship-loads of Italians coming out each year for the harvest

season—during which wages jump up from 40 to 50 pesos a month to 5 or 6

pesos a day—and return home immediately on its conclusion. The Italian

steamers (the fastest that ply between Europe and South America, some

of them doing the journey from Buenos Ayres to Genoa in twelve days,

whereas the average of the English mail steamer from the River Plate to

London or Liverpool takes nineteen to twenty-one days) provide special

facilities for the shipment of these labourers at a very low head rate.

To the remarkable return movement among Italian emigrants, on which I

have already touched, this large element of casual labour has contributed

not a little.

As regards the Spanish emigrant, I had many discussions with Spaniards

settled in the Argentine, from which I gained a good deal more

information than I had ever been able to acquire from any printed source.

One of these gentlemen in particular had studied the question in five

or six of the republics, and was engaged upon a book for circulation

among his countrymen at home, putting the matter in a new light. In his

estimation, the Argentine conditions represent an improvement for only

the lowest class of Spaniard. This class of Spaniard I remember being

very fully described in a leading article in _La Prensa_. His notions of

thrift were there illustrated by his habit, when in his native country,

of journeying about the countryside bare-footed, with his boots and

stockings hung around his neck. When he approaches a village, he pauses

by the roadside to put on his stockings and boots, and so shod traverses

the village; but as soon as he has emerged on the highway again, he

removes them and continues his journey with them around his neck once

more! Such a custom touches the zero of social comfort and those

habituated to it could scarcely fail to do better in almost any other

country in the world.

According to my Spanish friend, such of his countrymen immediately

become enthusiasts for the new land, and not only being able to go about

permanently with their boots and stockings, but perhaps to buy a white

collar for themselves and even a pair of silk stockings for their wives,

feel they have suddenly made a magical transition into the very lap of

luxury. But for the craftsmen, the village carpenter, the blacksmith, the

modest tradesmen, he assured me the change was not always for the better.

Spaniards of these classes can, thanks to the cheapness of commodities in

their native country, and despite the lowness of wages, secure infinitely

better household accommodation, and will eat better food, drink better

wine, and altogether live a less strenuous and more satisfactory

existence, than the majority, at least, will be doomed to maintain in the

Argentine. As to all this, I can speak with no exact knowledge, and I

do no more than report the opinion of a Spanish gentleman, confirmed to

me, I may add, by several others of his race who ought to have been in

positions to judge.

The gentleman in question was probably somewhat prejudiced, as he was

a patriotic Spaniard, fond of elaborating his theory that Spain to-day

had lost her head over the Argentine and was hastening her decay by

orienting her literature and her journalism towards the lucrative market

of South America instead of towards purely Spanish ideals. Looking to

South America as a land of employment for her children, as in the past

her kings had looked to it to fill their coffers, she was guilty of a

crowning folly. If the energy she is pouring into South America were

properly utilised at home, it would return far greater profit to the

nation and the individual. Such, at least, was his line of reasoning, and

I more than half suspect it was well based in fact.

And withal, from what I could gather, in the annals of Argentine

immigration, the most interesting chapter that might be written

would describe the activities and achievements of the Basques. This

splendid race of people who seem to unite the finest qualities of

the French and the Spanish, have distinguished themselves above all

others in the making of modern Argentine. The geographical position

of their homeland, enabling them to acquire, in addition to their own

most difficult language—which polyglot Borrow found his hardest nut

to crack—both French and Spanish, are peculiarly adapted for making

their way in Latin America. But apart from the language question, their

personal characteristics, in which industry joins with intelligence and

imagination, would inevitably carry them to success. They stand to South

American colonisation as the Scot to British Empire-making, and the

peculiar custom of their country, whereby the eldest son inherits all

the family goods and remains at home to maintain the family succession,

while the younger sons have to fare forth into the world to seek their

fortunes, marks them out for colonists.

[Illustration: FAMILIAR SCENES ON AN “ESTANCIA.”

In the upper picture, a “Bebedero,” or drinking-place for the cattle; in

the lower, a flock of sheep brought in for shearing. The windmill pumps

seen in both illustrations are the commonest objects of Argentine

landscape.]

My acquaintance with the Basques was limited to one family only—a

wonderful family; they are French Basques, and some fifteen or sixteen

brothers and cousins are united in a great business, which has important

warehouses and distributing centres in every large town along the

Atlantic and Pacific Coasts of South America, as well as in many of the

business centres of the interior. But for a typical story of the Basques,

I turn to the pages of M. Huret and translate what is one of the most

interesting little romances of Argentine emigration:

I wish to relate in some detail the story of one of these

French Basques (perhaps the most celebrated of them all), as I

heard it from one of his sons. I admire and sympathise with the

pride of this intelligent plebeian in a country where so many

people think of little more than how to make others believe

in the aristocracy of their blood, as if the most beautiful

and the noblest qualities of “aristocratic” blood did not

potentially exist in the blood of the people!

Pedro Luro was born in 1820 in the little town of Gamarthe, and

in 1837 he arrived at Buenos Ayres with a few francs in his

pocket. Entering as a labourer in a _saladero_ (beef salting

establishment), he contrived to save enough to contemplate

matrimony, but suffered the loss of his little savings by

robbery. He applied himself with new energy to work; purchasing

a horse and a tilt cart, he converted the latter into an

omnibus, and with himself as driver plied between the Plaza

Montserrat and the suburb of Barracas.

He then married a countrywoman, Señorita Pradere, a relative

of his own, and with one of her brothers founded an _almacén_

(general store) at Dolores, some three hundred kilometres

to the south. But soon this store did not suffice for his

activity, and leaving his wife and her brother in charge of

it, he scoured the Pampa for cattle, wool and hides. Later on,

he made a proposal to a neighbouring estanciero whom he saw

planting trees on his ground, and effected a contract with him,

the conditions of which are famous still in the Argentine.

Luro was to plant as many trees as he liked on two hundred

_hectáreas_ of land, which the estanciero was to place at his

disposal, and was to be paid for the work at the rate of four

centimes for each common tree and twenty-five for each fruit

tree of which the fruit contained stones.

Calling to his aid a number of his fellow Basques, at the end

of five years, Pedro Luro had planted so many trees on these

two hundred hectáreas that the proprietor owed him a sum not

only superior to the value of the ground planted, but of the

whole five thousand hectáreas composing his estancia (land was

sold at that time in this district at 5,000 francs per league).

The estanciero did not care to pay Luro, with the result that

the astute Basque started an action at law and converted

himself into the proprietor of the 5,000 hectáreas.

About the year 1840, the southern part of the province of

Buenos Ayres was still almost desert, the land of small value.

These were the times of the Rosas tyranny, and incessant

revolutions. All around the abandoned estancias dogs had

returned to a state of savagery, and cattle wandered free in

innumerable herds across these immense spaces. It happened that

Luro was assisting at a _batida_ (battue) of these animals,

rendered mad by being entangled in the lassos and pricked

with knives in the hocks. Pondering over the value of all

that flesh and fat wasted, for it was then the custom merely

to secure the skin of the animal and leave its body to decay,

the idea occurred to buy from the landowner all the animals of

the class that were thus to be hunted and killed, at the rate

of ten pesos of the old Argentine money, equivalent to little

more than one peso of the present currency. The proprietor

was highly amused at the suggestion. “I quite believe I will

accept,” he exclaimed, laughing, “but do you really think it

would be good business?”

It was with the only system of capture known to the _gauchos_,

that is to say the lasso and the _bolas_ (three balls attached

by long leather thongs, which, thrown with great dexterity

at the legs of an animal, entangle these and bring it to the

ground), necessitating months and an enormous number of men,

that he would be able to bring some thousands of cattle—and in

what sad state—to the salting factory.

All the same, Luro insisted with perfect coolness, and the

contract was signed.

Now the tactics conceived by the intelligent Basque were as

follow: He began by prohibiting the gauchos from scouring

the country in cavalcades. During three months, only two men

on horseback, going slowly, were allowed to wander about the

pasture ground of these wild cattle. Little by little the

animals became accustomed to the sight of them and did not fly

away when they approached. When some hundreds of cattle had

thus been domesticated, they were taken farther away, where

others were still in a wild state, and these in turn were

easily reduced to the tameness of the first.

In batches of five hundred to a thousand, Luro was soon able

to herd the cattle direct to the salting factories, where he

sold them at 15, 20, 25, even 30 francs each. At the end of a

year, he had thus secured no fewer than 35,000 head of cattle.

He had made himself rich, and the proprietor of the estancia

had received from him at one stroke 70,000 francs, which he had

never expected, remaining enchanted with his transaction.

In 1862, Pedro Luro went still further afield, beyond Bahía

Blanca, whose fort at that time constituted the frontier

against the Indians. He was delayed for some time on the banks

of the River Colorado, owing to the Indians having robbed him

of his horses. Meanwhile, exploring the valley of the river, he

quickly grasped the potentialities of the district. Returning

to Buenos Ayres, he secured an interview with General Mitre,

to whom he proposed to buy from the State 100 square leagues

of land (250,000 hectáreas) at the rate of 1,000 francs per

league, with a view to founding a colony of three hundred

Basques in that region.

His scheme apparently approved by the President, he then set

sail for Navarra Baja in Spain, where he recruited some fifty

families, with whom he returned to the Argentine. But the

Government, while agreeing to the sale of land, would not, for

some unknown reason, permit the founding of the colony, so the

Basques were spread over the land of their compatriot. Many of

them, or their descendants, are to-day millionaires, while the

land bought at the 1,000 francs the league is valued now at 200

francs the hectárea, or say 500,000 francs per league.

Meanwhile, Pedro Luro continued his active commerce in skins

and wool. Ere long he had constructed the largest curing

factory in all the basin of the River Plate, expending millions

of francs on it. Then he set himself to the exploitation of the

bathing station of Mar del Plata, which had been founded by

Señor Peralta Ramos, one of the most fortunate of speculations,

from which his heirs, continuing his work there, have benefited

immensely. At his death he left to his fourteen children

375,000 hectáreas of land, 300,000 sheep, and 150,000 cattle,

then valued at 40,000,000 francs.

Pedro Luro was a Frenchman who did honour to his country by

his exceptional qualities, his spirited initiative, valour,

endurance, and business intelligence. He took to the Argentine

more than 2,000 of his fellow Basques, whom he employed in his

many agricultural and industrial establishments, providing

them with cattle, letting land to them cheaply, lending them

money. Almost all of these have made their fortunes. With Luro

disappeared one of those types that are almost legendary, and

without doubt the most famous colonist of the epic period of

Argentine immigration.

Here, then, is as fascinating a story as we shall find in the annals

of colonisation, and so eminent in the life of the Argentine are the

descendants of Pedro Luro to-day that the story of their origin and

the achievements of their progenitor would form a splendid subject for

some native writer, were not the Argentine authors too busy imitating

European models to lend themselves to the simple narration of such

splendid life-histories as the making of the Argentine presents. For

the passage I have quoted from M. Huret is no more than the prelude to

a romance which is likely yet to see its final issue in the founding of

a great and prosperous town at the mouth of the River Colorado in the

Bay of San Blas, southward of Bahía Blanca. The Luros are the lords of

all the land in that region, and I recall the interest with which I read

a series of somewhat highly coloured articles by Mr. A. G. Hales, the

Anglo-Australian journalist, then attached to the staff of the Buenos

Ayres _Standard_, who, in the latter part of 1912, made a journey on

horseback through that district. He pictured the coming of a day when

ships would sail from the city of San Blas laden with wines for the

tables of European epicures, and no end of other wonders that would come

to pass in the valley of the River Colorado, which fifty years ago the

shrewd Pedro Luro had secured for his descendants at so small an outlay.

At the present moment, there is no railway within 150 miles of San Blas,

and I suppose there is no more than a paper plan of the future city,

lying somewhere in the estate office of the Luros, and no ships cast

anchor in its bay, but there was a time when Buenos Ayres itself, and not

so many years ago Bahía Blanca, meant no more to the world than a name on

a map, and who shall say what dreams may not come true?

The real Argentine: Notes and Impressions of a Year in the Argentine and Uruguay · 第 15 / 22 章