CHAPTER XIII

THE ARGENTINE AT HOME

As we make no distinction in English between the name of the country

and that of its native, referring to both as “the Argentine,” I am

continually finding little difficulties present themselves in the

progress of my writing, involving circumlocutions which are obviated

in the Spanish. The Spaniard can never doubt the intention of a writer

about the Argentine, _la Argentina_ being the name of the country, or

of a female native, while _el Argentino_ indicates the male native. In

the English, we have to depend entirely on the context of the sentence

to make clear whether the reference is to the country or to a native

thereof. In the present chapter, of course, the title sufficiently

indicates that we are to look at the Argentine native in his domestic

relationships, and I must confess the subject is one that does not admit

of very extensive treatment, for the reason set forth by M. Jules Huret

in one of his admirable studies. The French writer observes (I translate

from the Spanish translation):

Only strangers of high social or official standing are received

with any active sympathy. It is a matter of pride to be able

to make these visitors realise the great progress of the

metropolis and to introduce them to two or three _salons_,

which are all precisely alike. But if the stranger, although he

be of good family, arrive at Buenos Ayres provided with letters

of introduction to real _criollos_ (natives with generations of

Argentine pedigree) he will receive cards in reply, and not

always that courtesy; rarely a word of friendship or welcome.

He will hear repeated on all hands _mi casa es suya_ (“my house

is yours”); there will even be the usual courtesies with him

should they meet, and he may even be asked to go to the Jockey

Club, if his stay in Buenos Ayres is not to be a long one.

With few exceptions, he will not be able to penetrate into the

intimacy of the “home” or of a family of _criollos_. Argentine

family life, especially of the better class, retains many of

the habits of the Spaniards and something of the customs of the

Arabs.

This is correctly observed, and if an amiable Frenchman found such

difficulty as M. Huret evidently experienced in penetrating within the

outer walls of Argentine domesticity, how shall the Anglo-Saxon succeed

where a Latin had to confess failure? It is to be borne in mind, however,

that this refers chiefly to the old families, who affect to despise

the motley rabble of newcomers, and while profiting enormously by the

industry and enterprise of the Gringo,—who has developed and exploited

the riches of their country, making them rich in the process,—do not wish

to be vulgarised by intercourse with the merely money-making element of

the population. The exclusiveness of such families is notorious, and

maintaining as they do the ancient patriarchal relationships, they are

sufficient unto themselves, so that any foreigner who seeks to force

himself into their small and narrow-minded circle is an ill-advised

mortal who will surely be snubbed for his pains. They are as truly

republican, these criollos, as the families of the Doges of Venice, but

politically, and even socially they are being overwhelmed by the great

tide of commercial prosperity on which all sorts and conditions of people

and the motliest mixtures of nationalities have floated into wealth and

power. Yet there is something austerely attractive in their dignified

isolation, their cold contempt of the ruck of the community. Like the

creole families of Louisiana, they are landmarks of the past, mouldering

memorials of a social system that has served its day and is ceasing to be.

We have really to go further back than Spanish origins to trace the

influences that have moulded the Argentine criollo into what we find him.

Just as it is a recognised law of heredity that certain characteristics

are apt to skip one generation and reappear in the next, so do we find

among these peoples of South America features that are more Moorish than

Spanish. In modern times, while the Spaniards at home have been ridding

themselves of many traces of the old Moorish dominion, those who settled

in their American colonies retained customs and habits of thought which

were disappearing in the home country, and owing to the isolated and

circumscribed colonial life, tendencies toward exclusiveness have become

emphasised to the point of exaggeration. Thus, in certain directions, the

dusky hand of the Moor is even more noticeable in South America to-day

than in Spain itself. This is a point of view which few Argentine writers

would be willing to endorse, as it is the claim of the Argentine that his

civilisation is purely European, though distinctive in its individuality.

The fact remains, however, that the position of the womenkind, legally

and socially, though now showing signs of rapid change, conforms more

to Moorish notions than to European ideals; the very arrangement of the

house is Moorish, disguised, it is true, by progression through Spanish

and French styles; the tribal dignity of the head of the family is nearer

to Arabic life than to anything still surviving in European civilisation.

It will be at once obvious to the reader that in a country where we find

the very latest ideas of intellectual and industrial progress warring

with social conceptions which we have long come to esteem as essentially

oriental, we must have a very complex and unfamiliar system of family

life to consider. Indeed, while there is but little for the writer to

deal with, who confines himself to a record of familiar experiences,

the subject is extremely fascinating and capable of treatment at great

length. My present purpose, however, is to deal with the obvious, with

“things seen,” rather than to attempt in any detail the tracing of

origins of the Argentine social system. But the slight suggestion I have

thrown out will show the bent of my thought in this connection, and

perhaps help the reader to a better understanding of what is to follow.

It must be understood that the foreign resident actively engaged in

business affairs might not, in the whole course of a lifetime, come

in contact with any of the real criollos. Nor would it be matter for

surprise if he seldom or never encountered a real Argentine. Personally,

it was my good fortune to meet several gentlemen of eminent position and

influence in Buenos Ayres who were natives of the country, whose parents

in some instances had even been born there, and all were intensely proud

to be Argentines. It would be difficult, however, to determine to what

extent any one of them, had England been the scene of their lives, would

have been regarded as an Englishman. The extraordinary power of the

country to assimilate all races under the sun, the speed with which even

the most unpromising material of immigration seems to be transformed

into Argentine nationality, presents one of the greatest difficulties

to the foreigner in his search for national characteristics. I was told

by various English residents that they had only been able to make their

children grow up with the English tongue by thrashing them when they

spoke Spanish, and M. Huret mentions the typical case of a Frenchman

whose sons absolutely refused to learn their father’s language, and were

proud to speak only Spanish. He also tells how two sons of a wealthy

German resident in Rosario, who had been sent to a German University,

while staying at the Plaza Hotel in Buenos Ayres on their return, on

being mistaken for Germans, felt so mortified that they wept!

There are two immediate reasons for this fervid patriotism of the younger

generation: (1) the fact that all male children born in the Argentine are

regarded as Argentine citizens and must perform their military service;

and (2) the perfervid patriotism instilled into them at school, where the

national flag is exhibited in every room and receives the homage of a

sacred thing.

[Illustration: A SCENE IN THE “CAMP”—PEONES OUTSIDE A “PULPERIA,” OR

COUNTRY GROCERY AND LIQUOR STORE.]

It is perfectly understandable that a young man, feeling himself a

citizen of no mean country, in which his father is no more than a

foreigner—rarely does a Frenchman become officially an Argentine, as

that involves the renunciation of his own nationality; the Germans are

less squeamish in this respect; while the Italians and Spanish readily

nationalise themselves—will take a wholesome pride in his citizenship.

And as language is the greatest instrument for binding a people together,

and the predominance of Spanish in South America is unassailable, it is

not surprising that the native-born should even prefer the language of

his country to that of his father’s country. In the course of my stay

I met quite a number of persons bearing the most familiar English and

Scottish names, who could not even say “Good morning” in English. With

certain of these I had frequent transactions, and it was interesting

to study the racial characteristics of a gentleman named Campbell, a

fanatical Argentine, whose parents two generations back spoke nothing but

“braid Scots,” yet whose every action and trick of speech was peculiarly

Argentine. Another gentleman, one of the most able and businesslike men I

encountered, boasted the name of Harris (pronounced “Arrees”), which was

about the only English word he knew. Thus it happens there are unnumbered

thousands of Argentines without a single drop of Spanish blood, but with

all sorts of infusions of British, German, French, Italian, Belgian,

Russian, Scandinavian, etc. As regards the patriotic teaching, here is an

example of the catechism in daily use throughout the public schools:

_Question._ How do you esteem yourself in relation to your

compatriots?

_Answer._ I consider myself bound to them by a sentiment which

unites us.

_Q._ And what is that?

_A._ The sentiment that the Argentine Republic is the finest

country on earth.

_Q._ What are the duties of a good citizen?

_A._ First of all, to love his country.

_Q._ Even before his parents?

_A._ Before all.

Afterwards, the scholar responds in the following manner to another

question from the teacher:

In the veins of no human being ever flowed more generous blood

than ours; the origins of no people in the world ever shone

with a brighter aureole than that which illuminates the brow of

the Argentine Republic. I am proud of my origin, of my race,

and of my country.

Whenever the name of General San Martín is mentioned by the teacher in a

class, the scholars are expected to bob up and make the military salute,

at the same time saying _viva la pátria_! And very touching the extreme

gravity of all classes in uncovering and their prayerful homage when

the somewhat bizarre strains of the National Anthem, reminiscent of the

Marseillaise mixed with a Sankey hymn, are heard, while the national flag

borne through the streets or exhibited on an official occasion involves

the doffing of all hats.

All this, to Europeans, exaggerated patriotism, will appear far less so

to the citizen of any young country, and is not vastly more pronounced

than that of the United States, but it is probably necessary to the

fomenting of a proper sentiment of nationality. Time will adjust the

untrue perspective of the present day, which elevates the most trumpery

shooting affairs into heroic combats and successful soldiers of no

dazzling genius with Wellington and Napoleon, if not with Julius Cæsar

and Alexander the Great!

These, then, are two very potent factors in the making of the Argentine

patriot: the claiming of every male child born in the country as a

national unit and the determined inculcation of a vigorous patriotism.

We have to add to them the influence of the language and also that

natural love of country which makes the human being prefer even the most

forbidding and unattractive scenes, if they happen to be the first on

which his dawning mind has looked. So strong is this feeling, that I have

found it quite impossible to utter a single word in criticism of Buenos

Ayres in the presence of young people, the children of British subjects,

who had been born there and had never seen a European city. Nay, they

are to be met in England, full of contempt for poor old London and all

things English, and fired with the most unreasoning love of their native

Buenos Ayres. Thus in a country where “the melting pot” so quickly turns

all that is thrown therein into the same mould, it is almost futile to

go searching for “the real Argentine,” and we must be content to attempt

no delicate differentiations, but simply to accept in the broadest and

loosest way the Argentine residents as the Argentine people, excluding,

perhaps, the larger portion of the British community.

Early discovering the fact that there was no possibility of the average

stranger being admitted into the charmed circle of the private family,

I turned to other methods of discovering something of the family life,

and confess that I did not even despise the observations of English

governesses, whose services are in keen demand among the well-to-do.

Some of these ladies might do the necessary picture of the inner life of

the Argentine family which no ordinary visitor is ever likely to be able

to draw from personal observation.

Let me give one glimpse of an Argentine interior, as I had it from a

very able teacher of languages—an English lady who had spent a number of

years in the homes of different families. Unlike most Argentine families,

this was self-contained, the father and mother with their brood of young

children, and a considerable retinue of servants, occupying an immense

house in the fashionable district, with no other relatives sharing it.

The gentleman derived a large income from his estates and was above the

need to do more than draw his money periodically from the agents into

whose hands he had placed their management. The wife, still under thirty,

was the mother of some eight or nine children, and she had already

attained to that condition of adipose tissue which is the ambition of

every respectable Argentine lady. Her mornings were spent in aimless

lolling about the house in a state of undress, her toilet being a matter

for the afternoon, when she went for a short run in their big limousine,

or visited some lady friends to take afternoon tea. In the evenings, she

had her children with her until a comparatively late hour, her husband

spending almost every evening at his club, and he too would attend to

his toilet in the afternoon, thinking nothing of sitting down to lunch

in his shirt-sleeves with his suspenders hanging from the back of his

trousers, while his wife would be in her dressing gown. The children were

not admitted to meals, but took their food with the governess and one or

two nurses in a special dining-room, into which papa would occasionally

wander at meal time, still in his shirt sleeves, and help himself to

scraps from the dishes on the table or perhaps a spoonful of soup from

the tureen! This the governess found somewhat trying in her efforts to

instil manners into the children, whose conduct at table was deplorable.

Once when one of the elder girls was picking the bread on the governess’s

plate, that much-tried lady explained to her gently that such was not

considered good manners, to which the bright young girl replied: “In

England, yes; but here, no.”

To keep these lively youngsters from all sorts of monkeyisms, such as

licking the dividing spoon, putting their knives into their mouths, and

making as much noise over a plate of soup as one does in a bath, left the

governess scant time to enjoy her meals, and such manners among children

are not altogether exceptional in Argentine homes. Young people are

pampered to a dangerous degree, and while still mere children they have

more pocket money to dispose of on their own little selfish pleasures

than many a well-to-do Englishman spends on himself.

Although there is great and growing popularity for all forms of English

sport, and especially football, the boys of the moneyed classes are

usually somewhat effeminate in their manners. Those of the household

above mentioned who were old enough to go to school were taken there,

a distance of about a quarter of a mile, under care of a nurse or the

governess, in one of the various motor cars owned by the father, and

at the hour of dismissal each day they were brought home in the same

manner. I used to think it quite one of the characteristic sights of

Buenos Ayres to notice the groups of nurses and governesses at the doors

of the better-class schools, waiting to receive their little charges

and conduct them as far as two or three squares away by electric tram,

when the parents could not afford to send a motor or a horse-carriage

for that purpose. Many of these helpless boys would be twelve years old!

This is understandable in the case of the girls, nay imperative, but it

tends to make the boys timorous and unmanly, afraid even to cross the

street alone. In view of the universal pampering of the children, it

speaks highly for the essential virility of Argentine character that the

youth of the country cannot, as a whole, be said to lack in manliness;

they seem to throw off in adolescence the effeminacy which their boyhood

training is admirably adapted to foster in them.

Of familiar domestic intercourse, such as the social relationships of

British and North American home-life make possible, there is absolutely

none in the Argentine, or, indeed, throughout the whole of South

America—excepting always those families in which Anglo-Saxon influence

predominates. The drawing-room of most of the better-class houses is a

gorgeously furnished chamber, in which the furniture, on most days of

the year, is hidden under dust covers, and where the blinds are seldom

raised. It exists for state occasions only, when the starchiest formality

is observed, and these are by no means numerous and always duly announced

in the social column of the daily papers. The lady of the house passes

most of her time between her bedroom and her boudoir, and it is in the

latter, if she cultivate a circle of lady friends, that she will sip

afternoon tea with her callers, although you will occasionally come

across an announcement in the social news stating that some lady is going

to give a “five o’clock tea room” at four o’clock, and inviting her

acquaintances to be present. There is a great partiality for the use of

English phrases, and “five o’clock tea,” together with the addition of

“room,” is often used without any clear understanding of its meaning.

But the Argentine mother, although her ways are not our ways, might in

certain respects serve as an example to English and American mothers;

entering not in the slightest degree into any of her husband’s concerns

that lie outside of their home, her devotion is entirely to her children,

who will in large measure reflect her standard of culture, and when the

lady of the house has had a European training, there will be nothing

lacking in the behaviour of her children.

This bond between the mother and children is very strong, reaching out

through all the living generations, so that even a great-grandmother—and

there are many, as the women marry young, grandmothers of forty being

not uncommon—enters very intimately into the lives of all her progeny,

who vie with each other in their love for her. The community of feeling

between all members and branches of the family is most pronounced. The

importance of this in knitting together the fabric of Argentine society

cannot be overestimated.

Unlike the French housewife, the Argentine lady does not greatly concern

herself about the finances of the household, merely giving directions

for the expenditure, but usually leaving it to her husband to settle

the accounts. In this she shows something of the “grand lady” and also

something of the lady of the harem, acknowledging that it is no part of a

woman’s business to understand the value of money. Her conception of her

office is to be pleasing and attractive to her husband and devoted to her

children, in which duties she finds her full content. The very formality

of her name indicates how far the Argentine lady is removed from the

possibilities of Pankhurstism. She is proud to be known as Señora María

Martínez de Fuentes, thus indicating that she is María Martínez of

Fuentes, the latter being her husband’s name. It is an admission of

husband’s rights which could not exist in a country of self-assertive

womenkind.

By the way, it may be interesting here to explain the peculiar customs

that regulate family names in South America, and lead to continuous

mistakes on the part of Englishmen and Americans, who have not taken the

trouble to familiarise themselves with them. I have just explained that

when a lady marries she retains her maiden name and adds to it, with the

preposition de, the name of her husband. Almost certainly, however, her

husband would have two family names; the paternal and maternal. Let us

suppose his name was Fuentes Mattos, the first his father’s family name

and the second his mother’s family name. His wife, in adding his name to

hers, ignores his mother’s name, which is of secondary importance, and in

many cases is entirely dropped. On the other hand, the children of this

imaginary couple would be named Fuentes Martínez, thus indicating that

the father was a Fuentes and the mother a Martínez, so that we have the

following varieties of nomenclature in one family:

Father: José Fuentes Mattos.

Mother: María Martínez de Fuentes.

Son: Alfonso Fuentes Martínez.

When we remember that the names of the grandparents and the grandchildren

will all pass through similar changes, it will be seen how complicated

South American family names may become. Still, always bearing in

mind the simple rules I have illustrated, there is no difficulty in

identification, and relationships can be much more clearly established

than with our cruder system.

There is a tendency in the Argentine, due to admiration of British

brevity, to ignore the maternal name entirely, whereas on the Pacific

coast it is the universal practice to use only the initial, so that Señor

José Fuentes Mattos would there be expected to sign himself José Fuentes

M. As it is, in the Argentine a man will sometimes write his name in full

and at other times use only the initial for the maternal name, or drop

it entirely; but for Señor José Fuentes Mattos to receive a letter from

England addressed Señor J. F. Mattos is an insult he does not readily

forgive. Naturally, that is what happens daily in business correspondence

between North and South America, and I well remember a traveller for an

American firm coming to me to solve the difficulties of a long list of

names he had received from his head office, in every one of which the

surname was represented by an initial and the maternal name written in

full.

Returning to the Argentine at home, we have to consider for a moment that

patriarchal system of living, to which I have already made reference as

one of the legacies of the remote past. Formerly universal in Spain,

had it not existed in the mother country before the colonising days,

it would almost certainly have been forced upon the colonial pioneers.

For protection against the marauding Indians, the colonists, even for

many years after gaining their national independence in 1810, had to

maintain themselves in closely banded communities. Even so recently as

the year 1860, the now thriving city and port of Bahía Blanca, which

may yet rival Buenos Ayres as a great centre of shipping, was no more

than a military outpost to keep the Indians from penetrating too near

the townships in the province of Buenos Ayres. Thus we might have

attributed to the influence of environment the system of one family with

all its connections, interested in the work of a large estancia, as

extensive, perhaps, as an English county, living together under the one

paternal roof, did we not know that it has a remoter origin. Now that

the conditions which justified it have entirely passed away, its true

origin is not only forgotten, but would probably be denied by those who

observe the custom, which survives in the very heart of the metropolis,

and among the best families of the land. I remember well how impressed

we were with some of the private palaces in Buenos Ayres, many of which

rival in size and architectural ostentation the great public buildings.

It was a matter for wonder how any ordinary family could tenant a house

large enough to serve as the town hall of an important city. But all was

made clear when we knew that in many of these private palaces there was

not merely one solitary family nestling away in some corner of the huge

building, but probably anything from six to a dozen related families,

living under one roof, so that I used to think of the head of the family

in Gilbertian rhyme, abiding in peace, not only with wife and children,

but with

His sisters and his cousins,

Whom he reckons up by dozens,

And his aunts!

To Britishers especially, it is a surprising fact that there are brethren

in the world who can dwell together in harmony, to whom propinquity does

not lead to family bickerings. That would be notoriously impossible

in Great Britain, and I suspect equally so among the Anglo-Saxons of

America. Our nature prompts to the independent life and an early good-bye

to the parental roof. Surely, then, there must be something radically

different in the Argentine character which can enable half a dozen or

more interrelated families to live harmoniously in the same house. Of

course, each family unit has its own particular quarters, and in some

of the more stately residences each family is really self-contained

as to its house accommodation, but more usually they will have common

dining-rooms and sitting-rooms, the women folk passing practically all

their time in each other’s company. As a people they must either be

abnormally good-natured, family affection must be developed beyond

anything familiar among us, or their racial inclination to indolence

makes them so tolerant of one another that they do not have the spirit

to quarrel. I suspect that something of all three, interacting on their

lives, makes possible the existence of this unusual condition of happy

family life.

The system is one that has much to be said for it, and fostering, as

it does, an intense feeling of family pride, which is reflected in the

patriotism of the country, it must be regarded as a valuable asset of

national character. If it happens that any member of the composite

family meets with misfortune, he can be sure of the immediate sympathy

and practical help of his relatives within the domestic circle, for they

would deem it an indignity that one of their family should be known to

be in difficulties. If one of the married sons dies, leaving a widow

with several children, there will never be a moment’s doubt as to what

the widow will do. She will continue in precisely the same position

within the family, and even if her husband has left no money at all,

his brothers will consider it their bounden duty to maintain her and

her children in the same comfort as her husband would have done. Nor is

there any charity in this, as there would be with us. It is a natural

concomitant of the family system. What we should consider generosity, the

Argentine brother-in-law regards as a simple duty, and there is hardly

a limit to what he will do in the shape of service to the family of his

dead brother.

In this connection, I recall a very interesting illustration of the

racial differences between Argentine and English. An English settler in

Buenos Ayres had five daughters born there, four of whom married British

residents or the children of British residents. The one exception married

an Argentine gentleman, and so narrowly British were her relatives that

at first they looked with disfavour on the match. After some years, the

English husband of one of the daughters died, leaving her with four

children and an empty purse, having wasted all his wife’s patrimony in

foolish speculation—there is no Married Women’s Property Act, the husband

becoming sole arbiter of his wife’s fortune! Her English brothers-in-law

and her own sisters were more or less sympathetic, but the despised

Argentine brother-in-law immediately made a home for her and her children

with his own family, and, as one of her relatives told me, seemed to

think he was only doing his bare duty. This is a very pleasant trait

of character, and from all that I was able to gather it is entirely

characteristic of the better-class Argentine. Certainly, wherever I

found that British women had married natives, they had good reason for

happiness, and too often were able to commiserate with their own sisters

and women friends who had married Englishmen.

Another noteworthy resultant of the strength of the family bond is

its influence for good on the men. In a country where, thanks to the

cosmopolitan rabble of rogues and tricksters who swarm in every quarter,

dishonesty abounds in all its guises, the temptations to most men are

greater than in the older and more firmly established countries of the

world. Pride of family very often keeps a man in the straight path. It

is a little reminiscent of the ancient system of the Japanese, which

involved the entire family in the disgrace and punishment of any one

member who transgressed the laws of honour. The strongest deterrent to

one tempted towards a wrong course is not what the community at large

will think of him, but how his action will embarrass and humiliate his

whole family. And when a member of one of these composite family circles

is guilty of embezzlement or any misdeed which can be rectified by the

self-sacrifice of the others, the matter seldom reaches the public; his

father and his brothers and other relatives willingly make good his

defalcations. Quite a number of cases of this kind came to my personal

knowledge, and I believe it is a fact that the law has seldom to be

appealed to when any one has suffered a loss through an employee, or a

partner who is “well connected.” For this reason, astute business men are

always careful to inquire into the family connections of any person with

whom they purpose having transactions, these connections being their best

guarantee. It will usually be found that the most barefaced swindlers are

either foreigners, or of foreign parentage, and not seldom have they a

good deal of British blood in their veins.

[Illustration: A “RAMADA,” OR SHADED RESTING-PLACE FOR MEN AND HORSES IN

THE ARGENTINE “CAMP.”]

As to the “homes” of the Argentine, they approach more nearly Anglo-Saxon

ideas of “comfort” than the French, Spanish, or Italian notions of

“home.” French styles of furniture and interior decoration still

predominate. There is, however, a growing appreciation of the more solid

comfort of English styles, and popularity for these is assured. Our

capacious easy chairs are ousting the dainty, elegant and abominably

unrestful French affairs. Little progress, however, has been made in the

direction of heating the houses, and an Argentine interior in winter, as

I have said in an earlier chapter, is apt to be a picture of shivering

cheerlessness. But there are signs that even this will be remedied in the

increasing approval of what may be described as “English comfort.”

That the Argentine’s home is likely, however, to be thrown open to the

freedom of the North American home is inconceivable. His exclusiveness

is a heritage of the past. He could not rid himself of it, even though

he tried. Nor is he trying very hard. He may in time come to follow

European customs in the ordering of his meals, which still remain, in

real Argentine homes, a topsy-turvy wonder to the European, the soup

usually appearing about the end of the dinner, and the cheese being eaten

indiscriminately between the earlier courses. This is no more than a

fashion, but the other matter is “bred in the bone.”

Knowing this, it seems quaint to receive from a native a letter on some

ordinary affair of business, bearing his home address with the initials

“s.c.” or “s.c.u.” appended. Here we have an old Spanish formality,

and one of the emptiest of courtesies. The initials stand for _su casa

de usted_, meaning “Your house.” That is to say, he informs you his

house is your house! But he has no more intention of ever asking you to

enter his house than you have of going there to stay. It reminds one of

Mark Twain on his travels in Spain, when expressing admiration for a

Spaniard’s jacket, the owner retorted, “It is yours, sir,” and further

assured him when he also admired his beautiful waistcoat that it also was

at his disposal, so that Mark, out of consideration of the Spaniard’s

convenience, refrained from admiring anything else he wore. This is a

custom of very primitive peoples, and I am told that something similar

obtains among the Maoris of New Zealand, one of whose chiefs pressed

upon King George, when, as Prince of Wales, he visited the colony, the

acceptance of some venerated object, and was greatly chagrined by the

royal visitor, in all innocence and wishing not to offend the chief,

accepting the quite useless gift. We must never take Spanish courtesy

literally, and we must remember in South America that their courtesy is

one of the things they have imported from Spain.

Among the minor characteristics of the Argentine which frequently

interested me and for which I endeavoured to find a reason, was the habit

of repeating the most ordinary phrases in much the manner of a doddering

old person reiterating the same story. Let me try to express this in

English. A lady is telling how she narrowly escaped being run down by a

tram in the street:

It would be about four o’clock in the afternoon, when I was

going down Calle Sarmiento. There was a lot of traffic in

the street, and without looking backwards I stepped off the

pavement. Just as I stepped off the pavement, I heard the bell

of a tram, and looking back, it had nearly reached me, so I

gave a scream and stepped back on the pavement, just as the

tram passed me, in the Calle Sarmiento, at about four o’clock

in the afternoon, when it was very crowded and I had only just

stepped off the pavement, when I heard the bell, and had only

time to step back when the tram passed me. If I hadn’t heard

the bell, I might have been run over, and I gave a scream just

as I stepped back on the pavement.

That is no burlesque version of how this most thrilling story would

be told. Then, suppose you have to arrange with one of your native

employees to purchase a box of purple carbon paper and three shorthand

note-books on his way to the office to-morrow morning. You will tell

him so, and expect that to be an end of the matter—when you are fresh

to Buenos Ayres. But no, after listening attentively to your elaborate

instructions, he will then repeat:

So, when I am coming in to-morrow morning, I will go to the

stationer’s, and I will get a box of purple carbon paper and

three shorthand note-books—a box of carbon paper, purple, and

shorthand note-books, three, to-morrow morning on my way into

the office. Three note-books and a box of purple carbon paper.

Bueno!

This most tantalising habit of trivial repetition is universal, and so

endemic that English-born residents speaking both languages translate

this mode of thought into the English tongue, with the quaintest results.

There is surely no people in the world who can take a longer time to

explain a little matter than the South American, and I have often thought

that the volume of the Spanish language, which frequently calls for

three or four times the number of words that would be used in English

to express a simple idea, must have had some influence in producing

this strange habit of repetition, in order to fix in the mind precisely

what is wanted and the condition under which it is to be secured. The

only satisfactory method of conveying ideas from mind to mind was to

assume that the person you were addressing was still under fifteen

years of age. The swift exchange of thought flashes which is possible

between Anglo-Saxons is unknown to users of the Spanish tongue, but the

more go-ahead Argentine, who really represents to-day the brightest

intelligence that expresses itself in Spanish, is deliberately aiming

at the Anglo-Saxon ideal, and, disregarding the circumlocutions of his

native speech, is endeavouring to bend that to the brisker uses of modern

commercial life. This theory of mine may be entirely wrong, but the

facts, as I have endeavoured to illustrate them above, are substantially

correct.

If anything is likely to seduce the Argentine away from his oldest and

most honoured customs of life, it is the spirit of emulation which

pervades the whole social system, though it is present to a much greater

degree in those of mixed parentage than in the _criollos_. By no means

peculiar to the Argentine, it attains to almost equal strength in the

United States, nor is it at all uncommon in English society. Social

rivalry is really the motive force behind much of the commercial activity

of the country. The family of Sanchez have just built a swagger new

house and bought a 25 horse-power limousine. The Alonso family, having

quite as much money and perhaps a trifle more than the Sanchez, cannot

brook this ostentation to pass without reply, so up goes a still more

florid mansion, a 40 horse-power car is bought, and the chauffeur wears

a dozen more brass buttons. This game of “Beggar my Neighbour” in social

ostentation is being played merrily through every grade of Argentine

society. It is extremely good for business. Not only does it create

a brisk demand for luxuries, but it lays upon those who play it the

necessity of energising to secure the wherewithal, and is thus productive

of creative effort in the making of wealth where formerly the impetus

was lacking. So that perhaps it might not be wrong to suppose that what

the European observer would write down in the one case as the vulgar

striving of social “climbers,” and as rotten economics in the other,

is economically good in the development of a young country. But it is

imitative and nothing else, for there is as yet no evidence of the growth

of a distinctively national taste, and this imitative tendency of the

people is destined to bring them steadily nearer to European ideas, so

that they will probably emerge with a social system that will bear the

same relationship to that of all the European nations as a composite

photograph does to all the portraits that have been overlaid on the

negative.

The real Argentine: Notes and Impressions of a Year in the Argentine and Uruguay · 第 13 / 22 章