WITH FRIENDS AT LAST
In the night a large number of horsemen arrived. There was a great
commotion in the place, the people running about shouting.
Tibet is farmed out to officials who have practically become small
feudal kings, and who are constantly quarrelling with one another.
To royal jealousy, and to disputes over the rights of the road, was due
the appearance of the new army. There were altogether some hundred and
fifty men armed with matchlocks and swords. The chieftain of this band
came to me with eight or ten other officers. He spoke so excitedly that
I feared there was trouble in store for us. There was indeed. These new
arrivals were officers and soldiers from the districts of Gyanema,
Kardam, and Barca. They had come with strict orders from the Barca
Tarjum that we were on no account to traverse his province or to cross
into India by the Lumpiya Pass. This was both amusing and tantalizing,
for we had now no way across the frontier open to us. Our guard and some
of the Jong Pen's men who had remained behind, finding they were in the
minority, thought it prudent to disappear. Anxious as I naturally was to
get out of the country as quickly as possible, I approved of all the
Gyanema men said, and urged them to fight in case the Jong Pen insisted
on my going through the Tarjum's province. All ways out of the country
were now barred to us, and unless we resorted to force, I felt we would
never escape at all.
The Gyanema men asked me whether I would lead them in case of a fight
with the Jong Pen's soldiers. Though not overconfident in their courage,
I accepted the post of general-in-chief _pro tem._, Chanden Sing and
Mansing being elected there and then as my aides-de-camp. We spent the
greater part of the night in arranging our plan of attack on the Jong
Pen's troops. When all was properly settled, the Tibetans, to show their
gratitude, brought me a leg of mutton, some _tsamba_, and two bricks of
tea.
Morning came. I was given a beautiful pony to ride. Chanden Sing and
Mansing were mounted on equally handsome animals. Then followed my
Tibetan troops--a grand cavalcade. We started gayly toward Taklakot. We
had been informed that the Jong Pen was concentrating his men at a
certain point on the road, where he intended to bar our way. It was this
point that we must force. My Tibetans said that they hated the Jong
Pen's men, and swore they would slaughter them all if they dared to
stand before us and prevent our passage.
"But they are such cowards," declared one of the Tibetan officers, "they
will run away."
All this talk suddenly stopped when we heard the distant tinkling of our
enemies' horse-bells. I encouraged my men as best I could, but a panic
began to spread among them. The Jong Pen's men came in sight. I
witnessed the strange spectacle of two armies face to face, each in
mortal terror of the other.
Notwithstanding my remonstrances, matchlocks and swords were deposited
on the ground with anxious eagerness by both parties, in order to show
that only peaceful intentions prevailed. Then a conference was held, in
which everybody seemed ready to oblige everybody else except me.
While this was still proceeding, a horseman arrived with a message from
the Jong Pen, and at last, to everybody's satisfaction, permission was
granted for us to proceed into Taklakot.
My army retraced its steps toward the north-west. Deposed from the high
military post, which I had occupied only for a few hours, I became again
a private individual and a prisoner. A large escort took us along a
rocky road following the course of the Gakkon River along barren cliffs.
We passed hundreds of _choktens_, large and small, mostly painted red,
and _mani_ walls. Then, having descended by a precipitous track on
whitish clay-soil, we reached a thickly inhabited district, where stone
houses were scattered all over the landscape. We saw on our left the
large monastery of Delaling, and, a little way off, the Gomba of
Sibling. Describing a sweeping curve among rocks and bowlders, we
rounded the high, graceful cliff, on the top of which towered the fort
and monasteries of Taklakot.
Such was our anxiety, when we reached this point, lest something should
happen and we should be taken back again by another route, that as soon
as we were across the wooden bridge over the Gakkon River, Chanden Sing
and I, on perceiving the large Shoka encampment at the foot of the hill,
lashed our ponies and ran away from our guard. Galloping our hardest
along the high cliff, riddled with holes and passages in which the
natives live, we found ourselves at last among friends again. The
Shokas, who had come over to this market to exchange their goods with
the Tibetans, were astounded when they saw us. They recognized us with
great difficulty.
We inquired at once for Doctor Wilson. When we found him the good man
could hardly recognize us, so changed were we. He seemed deeply moved at
our pitiable condition.
When the news of our arrival spread in camp, we met with the greatest
kindness at the hands of everybody. In a corner of Wilson's tent was a
large quantity of candied sugar--several pounds. So famished was I that
I threw myself on it and quickly devoured the lot. Later, my Shoka
friends brought in all kinds of presents in the shape of eatables, and
Rubso, the doctor's cook, was set to prepare an elaborate meal.
The British Political Frontier Officer, Karak Sing, hurried to me with a
change of clothes. Other garments were given me by Doctor Wilson. My own
ragged attire was literally swarming with vermin. Our guard had not
allowed us a single change of clothes, nor would they even hear of our
washing daily. It was by a special favor, and merely on account of its
sanctity, that we were allowed to plunge into the sacred Mansarowar
Lake.
Later in the day my wounds and injuries were examined by Doctor Wilson,
who sent official reports to the Government of India.
Tenderly nursed by Wilson and Karak Sing, and having partaken of plenty
of good food, my spirits, which had fallen rather low, revived as by
magic. After a few hours of happiness, I was already beginning to forget
the hardships and sufferings I had endured. I remained three days at
Taklakot, during which time part of my confiscated baggage was returned
to me by the Tibetans. I was overjoyed to discover that among the things
thus recovered were my diary, note-books, maps, and sketches. My
firearms, most of my money, the gold ring credited with wonderful
powers, several mathematical instruments, collections, over four hundred
photographic negatives, and various other articles were still
missing,[15] but I was glad to get back as much as I did.
To Doctor Wilson's tent came the Tokchim Tarjum, his private secretary,
Nerba, whom the reader may remember as having played an important part
in my tortures, the Jong Pen's secretary, and Lapsang in his handsome
green velvet coat with ample sleeves. These Tibetan officials admitted
before the Political Officer, Doctor Wilson, Pundit Gobaria, and many
Shokas, and even professed to be proud of what they had done to me. They
used expressions not at all flattering to the British Government, for
which they seemed to entertain great contempt.
I nearly got the Political Officer and the doctor into a scrape. My
blood, the little I had left, was boiling with rage at hearing the
Tibetan insults. The climax came when Nerba refused to give back my
mother's ring, which he had upon him. In a passion I seized a knife that
was lying by me, and leaped upon Nerba, the ruffian who had once fired
at me, and had held me by the hair while my eyes were being injured, as
well as during the preliminaries for my execution. Wilson and Karak Sing
checked me, and took the knife out of my hand. There was a general
stampede of the Tibetan officers, and our interview and negotiations
were brought to an abrupt end.
In further conversation I learned how my release had been brought about.
Doctor Wilson and the Political Agent, having received news that my
servants and myself had been beheaded, proceeded across the frontier to
make inquiries and to try to recover my property. They heard only on
arrival at Taklakot from the man Suna, whom I had sent from Mansarowar
with my message, that I was still alive and a prisoner, covered with
wounds, in rags, and starving. They had not enough men to force their
way farther into the country to come and meet me. Besides, the Tibetans
watched them carefully. Together with the influential Pundit Gobaria
they made strong representations to the Jong Pen of Taklakot. By
threatening him that an army would be sent to my rescue if I were not
set at liberty, they at last obtained from the reluctant Tibetan
potentate permission that I should be brought into Taklakot. The
permission was afterward withdrawn, but was at last allowed to be
carried into execution. It was entirely due to the good offices and
energy of these three men that I was brought back alive.
[Illustration: CLIFF HABITATIONS]
Pundit Gobaria was the most influential Shoka chief and trader on our
frontier in Bhot. He was on very friendly terms with the Tibetans and
was the intermediary through whom negotiations were carried on for my
immediate release. It was largely owing to his advice to the Jong Pen
that the negotiations led to satisfactory results.
After a short rest to recover sufficient strength, I recommenced my
journey toward India. Having crossed the Lippu Pass (16,780 feet) I
found myself at last on British soil again. We descended by slow stages
to Gungi, where, in Doctor Wilson's dispensary, I had to halt for a few
days on account of my weak condition.
Wilson had here a quantity of my baggage, instruments, cameras, plates,
etc., which I had discarded at the beginning of my journey. They came
handy. I had photographs taken of my two servants and myself, showing
our wounds and general condition. In the full-face photograph,
reproduced in this book, can be noticed the injuries to my left eye, as
well as the marks of the hot-iron torture on the skin of my forehead and
nose. I could see comparatively well with my right eye, but was unable
to use the left eye at all.
The injuries to my spine were severe, and gave me much trouble. At times
the whole of my left side became as if paralyzed. I experienced great
difficulty in sitting down when I had been standing, and in getting up
when I had been sitting down. Through the great strain they had
undergone, my joints were stiff and swollen, and remained so for several
months.
I was anxious to return to Europe as soon as possible. From Gungi and
Garbyang I travelled down to Askote in the company of the Political
Agent. The Nerpani road had fallen in two or three places. Rough, shaky
bridges had been constructed across the deep precipices. We met with a
hearty reception everywhere, and kindness was showered upon us by all
alike.
At Askote I met Mr. J. Larkin, hastily dispatched by the Government of
India to the frontier to conduct an inquiry into my case. Though still
suffering much pain, I insisted on turning back once more toward Tibet
to help him in his task. By quick marches we reached Garbyang and
climbed toward the snows. We intended crossing over the Lippu Pass into
Tibet to give the Jong Pen an opportunity of being interviewed. The
Tibetan official refused to meet us.
In order to give the Tibetans every chance, we climbed over the Lippu
Pass. It had been snowing heavily, and it was very cold. A Shoka had
only a few days previously been frozen to death in the snow trying to
cross over the pass. There were some twelve feet of snow, and the ascent
was not easy. Toiling for two hours from our last camp on the
mountain-side, we reached the summit of the pass. I was once more in
Tibet. Doctor Wilson, the Political Agent, and others were with us.
Having found a suitable spot where the wind did not cut quite so
furiously into our faces, we halted for a considerable time and waited
impatiently on the Tibetan side of the boundary for the Jong Pen or his
deputies, to whom letters had been sent asking them to come and meet us.
They did not put in an appearance.
In the afternoon of October 12th I finally turned my back on the
Forbidden Land. I was still far from well, but was glad indeed at the
prospect of seeing England and my friends again.
We returned to our camp, a few hundred feet lower than the pass, where
we had left our baggage and many of our men who were laid up with
mountain sickness.
Having fulfilled our mission, Mr. Larkin and I returned by quick marches
to Almora. In conducting the inquiry for the British Government, Mr.
Larkin obtained at the frontier ample testimony of what had occurred. A
full report was sent to the Government of India, and to the Foreign
Office and India Office in London. A copy of the Government Report will
be found in the Appendix.
Winter setting in, the Shokas, who had then all returned from Tibet,
were beginning to migrate to their winter homes lower down on the
mountains. When we passed the settlement many were already at work
repairing the fallen-down roofs of their winter habitations. A large
number of Tibetans with their sheep had also come over to spend the
winter on British territory. Their encampments could be seen all along
the road wherever there was sufficient grass for their flocks. The
Tibetans--Lamas and officials--maintained a high-handed and insolent
demeanor as long as we were in Bhot, which they regarded as part of
their own country, but which was in reality British soil. It must,
however, be said for them that the moment they came out of Bhot, and
had to deal with Hindoos instead of Shokas, their manner changed
considerably. Servility took the place of haughtiness and insolence.
We proceeded with no delay to Almora, and from there to Naini Tal, the
summer seat of the Government of the North-West Provinces and Oudh. At
the latter place a conference was held on my case by the
Lieutenant-Governor.
I paid off my faithful coolie Mansing, giving him enough for a start in
life. He accompanied me to Kathgodam, the northern terminus of the
railway. Genuine grief showed on his face when Chanden Sing and I
stepped into the train. He begged that, if ever I should go back to
Tibet, I must take him with me; only next time he, too, must be provided
with a rifle! That was the only condition. As the train steamed away
from the platform, he waved his hand affectionately.
Chanden Sing, who remained as my servant, travelled with me to Bombay,
and from there we went direct to Florence, the home of my parents, who
had suffered in their anxiety at home almost as much as I did in the
Forbidden Land.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 15: Some of the articles missing were some months later
recovered by the Government of India.]
APPENDIX
_Letter from_ SIR WILLIAM LEE WARNER, C.S.I., _Political and Secret
Department, India Office, London._
INDIA OFFICE, WHITEHALL, S.W.
_August 4, 1898._
DEAR SIR,
With reference to the request contained in your letter of the 27th, and
to your interview with me of the same day, I forward herewith for your
use a copy of Mr. Larkin's "Inquiry and report" into your treatment by
the Tibetans.
Yours faithfully,
(Signed) W. LEE WARNER.
A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq.
GOVERNMENT REPORT BY J. LARKIN, ESQ., MAGISTRATE OF THE FIRST CLASS
Mr. Arnold Henry Savage Landor having been reported to have been
captured and tortured by the Tibetans, I was sent up to Garbyang in
Byans to ascertain the facts.
Mr. Landor arrived in India on the 10th of April last. He proceeded to
Almora, where he arrived on the 27th idem. He stayed there until the
10th of May, to make arrangements for his travels in Tibet. At first he
was advised to take some Gurkha soldiers with him, but this fell
through, as the military did not accede to his request. He then, on the
27th May, arrived in Garbyang in Byans _patti_. It appears to have been
his intention to have entered Tibet by the Lippu Lek Pass. This is the
easiest, being about 16,780 feet above sea-level. It is the most
frequented route taken by the traders of Byans and Chaudans, and is
adjacent to Taklakot, a mart for wool, salt, borax, grain, etc. He was,
however, frustrated in this, inasmuch as the Jong Pen of Taklakot came
to know of Mr. Landor's intention and took steps to prevent it. He
caused bridges to be destroyed and stationed guards along the route.
Moreover, he appears to have been kept fully cognizant of Mr. Landor's
moves through the agency of his spies in Garbyang.
Under these circumstances Mr. Landor was compelled to resort to some
other route, and selected the Lumpia Pass, which stands at an altitude
of 18,150 feet.
On the 13th July last Mr. Landor, with a following of thirty men,
entered Tibet. He reached Gyanima, where he was stopped by the Barkha
Tarjum. This personage, however, after some persuasion, consented to
permit Mr. Landor and seven followers to go forward to the Mansarowar
Lake.
Next day the accorded permission was withdrawn, and Mr. Landor and his
party were turned back. The party returned three marches, when Mr.
Savage Landor determined to go to Mansarowar by the unfrequented wilds.
On the 21st July Mr. Landor, with nine followers, at midnight, in a
terrific snow-storm, climbed up the mountain and went off, the bulk of
his party continuing their retreat to the Lumpia Lek. By this strategic
move Mr. Landor baffled the Tibetan guards (_Chaukidars_). He carefully
avoided coming into contact with any of the inhabitants, and in order to
do so was obliged to keep to the high mountains and unfrequented wilds.
Travelling thus, with the aid of his compass, sextant, and sketch maps,
he reached Mansarowar.
Here five of his followers declined to accompany him any farther, so he
paid and dismissed them. This was at Tucker. Thus Mr. Landor was reduced
to a following of four men. He went on, however, and had accomplished
but three marches more when two more of his followers deserted him at
night. These went off with some of his supplies, all his servants'
food, and ropes.
Mr. Landor was now reduced to the following of a bearer (Chanden Sing)
and a coolie (Mansing). Despite his misfortunes he determined to push
on: his intention appears to have been to reach Lhassa.
He went over the Mariam La Pass.[16] This attains an altitude of over
16,000 feet.
Meanwhile the deserters had bruited about the information of Mr.
Landor's intention of getting to Lhassa.
While crossing the Neo (Tsambo) River one of Mr. Landor's yaks went
under. The yak was saved, but its valuable load, consisting of all the
tinned provisions, Rs. 800 in cash, three pairs of shoes, one
slaughtered sheep, wearing apparel, razors, skinning instruments, and
some three hundred rifle cartridges, was lost.
This accident was directly the cause of Mr. Landor's capture, as he and
his two followers, who were footsore, starving, and disheartened, were
driven to seek food and horses from the inhabitants of the country. On
the 19th of August, 1897, they went to a place called Toxem. The
villagers received them well and promised to supply them with food and
horses. Next morning, the 20th idem, a number of Tibetans came to Mr.
Landor's tent, bringing food and ponies.
While Mr. Landor and his servants were engaged trying and selecting
ponies, the crowd increased and came up behind its three victims.
Suddenly, without any warning, the Tibetans rushed on Mr. Landor and his
two servants, and, overwhelming them by numbers, made prisoners of them.
They cruelly bound their surprised victims. Then a number of soldiers
(who had lain in ambush) arrived and took over the prisoners. The first
person to be dealt with was the bearer Chanden Sing. He was accused of
having taken his master into Tibet. He was questioned as to this, and
also as to the maps and sketches found with Mr. Landor's things. I may
mention that when the arrests were made the Tibetans took all of Mr.
Landor's property, which they handled very roughly, damaging most of the
things. Hearing the Tibetans accuse the bearer, Mr. Landor called out
that his servant was in no way responsible for his having entered Tibet.
Thereupon a Lama struck him (Mr. Landor) a blow on the head with the
butt-end of his riding-whip. Chanden Sing was then tied down and
flogged. He received two hundred lashes with whips, wielded by two
Lamas. Then the prisoners were kept apart for the night, bound with
cords. Next day Mr. Landor was placed on a horse, seated on a spiked
pack-saddle. Mansing was put on a bare-backed horse. They still were
bound. Mr. Landor's arms were secured behind his back. Thus they were
taken off at a gallop toward Galshio. When the party were nearing that
place they came up with a party of Lamas, awaiting them by the roadside.
Here Mr. Landor's horse was whipped and urged to the front. A kneeling
soldier, his musket resting on a prop, fired at Mr. Landor as he went
past. The shot failed to take effect. Then they stopped the pony and
fastened a long cord to Mr. Landor's handcuffs. The other end was held
by a soldier on horseback. The party then continued their career, the
Lamas having fallen in. While proceeding at full gallop, the horseman
who held the cord attached to Mr. Landor's handcuffs pulled hard at it
to try and unhorse the latter. Had this occurred Mr. Lander must have
been trampled to death under the troop of horsemen behind him. Thus they
hurried onward till they neared Galshio,[17] when at a turn in the road
a soldier was seen kneeling at the "ready," who fired a shot at Mr.
Landor as he came abreast of him. This, like the previous shot, missed
its object.
Arriving at Galshio, Mr. Landor was torn off his pony. He was in a
bleeding state, the spikes in the pack-saddle having severely wounded
his back. He asked for a few minutes' respite, but was jeeringly told by
his guards that it was superfluous, as he was to be beheaded in a few
minutes. He was then taken, his legs stretched as far as they could be
forced apart, and then tied to the sharp edge of a log shaped like a
prism. The cords were bound so tightly that they cut into the flesh.
Then a person named Nerba, the secretary of the Tokchim Tarjum, seized
Mr. Landor by the hair of his head, and the chief official, termed the
_Pombo_, came up with a red-hot iron, which he placed in very close
proximity to Mr. Landor's eyes. The heat was so intense that for some
moments Mr. Landor felt as if his eyes had been scorched out. It had
been placed so close that it burned his nose. The _Pombo_ next took a
matchlock, which he rested on his victim's forehead and then discharged
upward.
The shock was consequently very much felt. Handing the empty gun to an
attendant soldier, the _Pombo_ took a two-handed sword. He laid the
sharp edge on the side of his victim's neck as if to measure the
distance to make a true blow. Then wielding the sword aloft, he made it
whiz past Mr. Landor's neck. This he repeated on the other side of the
neck.
After this tragic performance Mr. Landor was thrown to the ground and a
cloth put over his head and face to prevent his seeing what was being
done to his servant Mansing. This must have been done to make Mr. Landor
believe that Mansing was being executed. After a short time the cloth
was removed and Mr. Landor beheld his servant, with his legs stretched,
tied to the same log. Mr. Landor was kept for twenty-four hours in this
trying position, legs stretched as far as possible and arms bound to a
pole, and Mansing for twelve hours. To add to their misery, they were
kept in the rain and were afterward seated in a pool of water. The
effect of this torture was to strain the muscles of the legs and arms
and injure the spine.
When Mr. Landor's legs were unloosed from their cords, they were so
numbed and swollen that for sixteen hours he did not recover the use of
them and feared they were mortifying. Mr. Landor's property was
overhauled by the officials of Galshio and sealed up. On the afternoon
of the third day, at Galshio, the two prisoners were taken on foot to
Toxem. It was a very trying march, inasmuch as several rivers had to be
crossed.
On his arrival at Toxem, Mr. Landor saw his bearer Chanden Sing, in a
very precarious condition, as the latter had had no food for four days.
During all this time the prisoners were firmly bound and carefully
guarded. Next day, Mr. Landor and Chanden Sing were placed on yaks.
Mansing had to walk. Thus they were taken in the direction of Mansarowar
Lake. It was only on arrival at Mansarowar that his guards unbound Mr.
Landor.
Arriving at Dogmar, the party was stopped by the Jong Pen of Taklakot,
who refused to give them passage through his district. This was a very
serious affair, as it meant that the worn-out prisoners would have to be
taken by a long, circuitous route _via_ Gyanima and into India by the
Lumpia Pass. This would probably have done for them. Owing to the
intervention of the Rev. Harkua Wilson, of the Methodist Episcopal
Mission, _Peshkar_ Kharak Sing Pal and Pundit Gobaria, the most
influential person among the Bhutias[18] of Byans, the Jong Pen was
compelled to withdraw his prohibition and give his sanction to the
prisoners being conveyed to Taklakot.
Arriving at this place the prisoners were hospitably received by the
Rev. Harkua Wilson, who is also a medical man. He examined their
injuries and attended to them. His statement discloses the dreadful
condition he found them in. The Tibetan guards made over some of Mr.
Landor's property to him at Taklakot. It was then found that much
property had not been restored. Mr. Landor had a list drawn up from
memory of his unrestored property. This list (a copy) was handed to the
Jong Pen of Taklakot.
I append the list. The Jong Pen has been called upon to restore the
missing articles. He urges that the affair did not occur in his
district, and that he is in no way responsible for the loss of the
property.
He has, however, promised to try to recover them, alleging that the
affair has been reported to a superior authority at Gartok. From what I
could gather here, it seems probable that all the missing property, save
the money, will be restored. I tried to see the Jong Pen, but he pleaded
illness and the inutility of a meeting in which he had nothing new to
disclose. This personage is notorious in these parts for his implacable
hatred to English subjects.
The account of the affair as given by Mr. Savage Landor is fully borne
out by his two servants, and, moreover, the Tibetans who took part in it
did not try to hide it.
In the Rev. Harkua Wilson's tent at Taklakot, before _Peshkar_ Kharak
Sing, Pundit Gobaria, and a large number of Bhutias, several Tibetan
officials corroborated the whole account as related by Mr. Landor. The
man Nerba, who had held Mr. Lander's hair when about to be beheaded and
have his eyes burned out, admitted he had taken such part in the affair.
There can be no doubt that the above account is true and unexaggerated,
for the whole of Byans and Chaudans are ringing with it. The Jong Pen of
Taklakot was given ample opportunity to explain the affair, but he
declined to do so.
Mr. Savage Landor held Chinese passports, and his conduct during his
stay in that country did not warrant the officials to have treated him
in the barbarous, cruel way they did. I satisfied myself, by careful
inquiry from the people here, as to how Mr. Landor behaved.
He is said to have been most munificent in his dealings with all, and
invariably affable and courteous. I had seen Mr. Landor just before his
entry into Tibet, and when I met him I could scarcely recognize him,
though he had then fairly recovered from the terrible treatment he had
received. I saw the marks of the cords on his hands and feet, and they
are still visible after this lapse of time. He complains that he is
still suffering from the injury done to his spine, and fears that it may
be of a permanent nature.
_October 15, 1897._ J. LARKIN.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 16: Maium Pass.]
[Footnote 17: Galshio, or Gyatsho.]
[Footnote 18: Bhutias, or Shokas.]
[Sidenote: All communications to Government should give the No.; date,
and subject of any previous correspondence, and should note the
Department quoted.]
645
No. N. 277 A. of 189--.
_From_
THE UNDER-SECRETARY TO GOVERNMENT, N.-W. Provinces and Oudh.
_To_
A. H. SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq.,
_c/o_ Messrs. GRINDLAY, GROOM & CO.,
Bankers, Bombay.
_Dated_, ALLAHABAD, _November 13, 1897._
SIR,
[Sidenote: Political Department.]
In reply to your letter of November 5, I am desired to send you a
printed copy of depositions recorded by Mr. Larkin as noted below:
1. Of yourself; 2. Of Chanden Sing;
3. Of Man Sing; 4. Of Rev. Harkua Wilson;
5. Of Pundit Gobaria; 6. Of Kharak Sing;
7. Of Suna.
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your most obedient Servant,
H. N. WRIGHT,
_Under-Secretary to Government, North-Western
Provinces and Oudh. N.M._
DEPOSITION OF CHANDEN SING, _taken on the 9th day of October, 1897_,
_Solemn affirmation administered by me._
My name is Chanden Sing; my father's name is Bije Singh; I am by caste
Thatola; thirty-two years of age; by occupation _kheti_; my home is at
That, police station Bisot, district Almora.
I took service as a bearer with Mr. Landor at Almora on the 27th or 28th
of April last. I accompanied him on his trip to Tibet. We went along
through the wilds, encountering many hardships and reached Toxem. There
I insisted on my master buying ponies to take us to Darjeeling. This
resulted in our capture, for up to then we had vigilantly kept away from
the people. The people who brought us ponies to buy played us false.
They informed the authorities, who sent soldiers, who lay in ambush
behind the sand-hills until the crowd of horse-dealers and lookers-on,
whom we did not suspect of treachery, surrounded and seized us. We were
bound with cords by the arms (at back) and legs. My master was more
cruelly tied than we two servants. We were taken to the Raja,[19] who
accused me of having brought my master into the country. I was then
stretched out and two strong men with whips inflicted two hundred
stripes on me. I was questioned as to the maps. My master called out
that he, not I, alone understood them, and asked that I should not be
beaten. Thereupon a Lama struck him across the head and removed him to a
distance, so that I could not communicate with him. They took all our
property. Then we were kept separate for the night. I was put in a room
and my hands tied to a pole. I could not sleep with the pain I was in.
Next day my master, with his hands tied behind his back, was put on a
spiked saddle and tied by a long rope held by a horseman. He went at a
gallop surrounded by about fifty horsemen armed with guns and swords.
Man Sing, our coolie, was also taken with him. My guards informed me my
master was to be decapitated at Galshio, and that I was to be beheaded
where I was. On the fourth or fifth day my master returned. Meanwhile I
was a close prisoner, bound up, without food. When I saw my master he
was in a pitiful state. He was handcuffed with enormous cuffs, clothes
torn to rags, bleeding from his waist, feet and hands swollen. Next day
a guard on horseback took us back, bound as we were, on yaks' backs,
toward Mansarowar. There I had my cords unloosed. My master was kept
bound until we got to Tangchim. We were eventually taken to Taklakot,
where the Rev. Harkua Wilson met us and saw our condition. He attended
to our wants. My master was well-nigh at death's door. The Tibetans
returned some of my master's property, but they have kept about 475
rupees in cash, two rifles, revolver, two files, a lot of soap,
medicine, a butterfly dodger, matches, a box of mathematical
instruments, a quantity (400) cartridges, a large box of photographic
plates and negatives, three bags. We did not molest any one, and paid
more than four times the value for any food we bought.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
N.B.--For numerous other depositions, documents, and certificates, see
larger edition of _In the Forbidden Land_.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 19: Raja, or King.]
THE END
* * * * *
Transcriber's note
Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without notice. An obvious
printer error has been corrected, and it is listed below. All
other inconsistencies are as in the original. The author's spelling has
been maintained.
Page 223: "barrel that I made sure" changed to "barrel that it made sure".