(Or the Bridge of the Conflux of the Blue Pool); it is also called by the
inhabitants the Devil’s Bridge; on which account it has sometimes been
confounded with the bridge of that name near Havod, in Cardiganshire. In
approaching this spot from Beddgelert, the rocks on each side become
incomparably grand. The road winds along a narrow stony vale, where the
huge cliffs so nearly approach as only just to leave width sufficient at
the bottom for the road, and the bed of the impetuous torrent that rolls
along the side of it. Here these lofty rocks, which oppose nothing to
the eye but a series of the rudest precipices, “raised tier on tier, high
piled from earth to heaven,” seem to forbid all further access, and to
frown defiance on the traveller.
The bridge crosses the Glaslyn, and unites the counties of Merioneth and
Caernarvon. In the span it is thirty feet, and from the water to the
parapet forty feet high. There is excellent fishing in this river; it
abounds with salmon and trout. Some years ago, there was a noted salmon
leap a few yards above the bridge, and in the course of an hour, twenty
or thirty fish have been seen attempting to spring over the barrier, but
it is now broken down and fallen into decay. The salmon come up the
river in the latter end of the year, sometimes as early as the beginning
of October, in order to deposit their spawn on the sandy shallows, and
are here very plentiful. The fishery belongs to the Wynn family. When
the tourist has passed the bridge, and proceeded about one hundred yards
on the Tre-Madoc road, he will then see the view to perfection. The
elegant and venerable arch clothed with ivy—the foam of the little
waterfall almost beneath—the majestic rocks to the right, combining to
form one of the finest pictures in Wales.
It was probably from this place that Giraldus Cambrensis asserted of
Merionethshire, that “it was the roughest and most dreary part of Wales,
for its mountains were both high and perpendicular, and in many places so
grouped together, that shepherds talking or quarreling on their tops,
could scarcely, in a whole day’s journey, come together.”
There is very good fishing in this neighbourhood, at a lake called
Llyn-y-Dinas, about two miles from Beddgelert; the fish are good for the
table, of the weight of about half a pound; however, trouts of five or
six pounds weight have been taken. There are two boats kept by Robert
Roberts; the flat-bottomed one is considered the better and safer for
angling. Another lake appears, somewhat smaller, called Llyn Gwynnant,
which has been injured by being netted, but still affords fair sport for
the angler.
BETTWS-Y-COED,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)
Capel Curig 5
Cerniogau Mawr 9½
Llanrwst 4
Bettws-y-Coed (or Station in the Wood), a small village, pleasantly
situated on the Shrewsbury and Holyhead road, not far distant from the
junction of the Llugwy and the Conway. The church stands in a little
cemetery in the centre of the vale, enclosed by a few stately forest
trees, and forms a venerable and interesting object. It contains an old
monument in memory of Griffith, the son of David Gôch, who was a natural
son of David, brother to Llywelyn, the last prince of Wales. He died in
the fourteenth century, and is here represented by a large armed
recumbent figure in a recess in the north wall. On one side of the
figure, there is yet left this inscription,—“_Hic jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd
Gôch_: _Agnus Dei_, _misere mei_.” Within a mile distant is a bridge,
consisting of a single arch of iron, of 105 feet in the span, and called
the Waterloo Bridge from the circumstance of its having been erected in
the same year in which the battle of Waterloo was fought. It carries the
Holyhead road over the Conway.
Near Bettws-y-Coed is also Pont-y-Pair, a most singular bridge, flung
over the Llugwy, consisting of four arches, placed on the rude rocks,
which form most durable piers. These rocks are precipitous, and in high
floods exhibit to the passenger most awful cataracts below the bridge.
The scenery beyond, composed of rocky mountains fringed with woods, is
very striking. The river Conway affords good salmon and trout fishing.
The remarkably picturesque character of this district is particularly
attractive to artists who delight to make sketches from scenes of natural
beauty and grandeur.
CADER IDRIS,
(_Merionethshire_.)
Dolgelley 5
Dinas Mowddwy 11
Machynlleth 13
Towyn 15
These distances are computed from the summit of Cader Idris.
The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in Wales, rises upon
the sea-shore, close upon the northern side of the estuary of the small
river Disynwy, about a mile from Towyn. It proceeds with almost a
constant ascent, first northward for about three miles, then for ten
miles further runs E. N. E., giving out from its summit a branch nearly
three miles long in a south-westerly direction, parallel to the main
ridge. It is very steep and craggy on every side, but the southern
descent, especially to the border of Tal-y-llyn lake, is the most
precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. Its breadth bears but a small
proportion to its length, a line passing along its base, and intersecting
the summit, would scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the other
parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds one mile in
breadth.
Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive mountains, extending
in a N. N. E. direction, and including the Arrans and Arrenigs. It is
much loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which
surround it. Dolgelley is the place from which the ascent to this
mountain is usually made.
Several tourists of literary eminence have made the ascent of Cader
Idris, and have left on record graphic and animated descriptions of the
sublime views which its summit discloses. Mr. Roscoe says—“The following
morning promising a fine day, I determined upon making an excursion over
Cader Idris. This mountain is one of the most lofty in Wales, and forms
a part of the great chain of hills which runs nearly parallel with the
coast for many miles, in connection with the Arrans and the Arrenigs, and
more inland, towards Corwen, with the Berwyn range. Proceeding over the
hill which leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake, and turning to the
left, commenced the ascent. After great labour for three or four hours,
and consequent fatigue, I reached the summit; and the pool Llyn-y-Cae
shewed itself, situated among high rocks, whose weather-beaten cliffs
overhang the water; but thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an
extended view. Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a description
of this grand and picturesque scene he witnessed, the following extract
from which leaves nothing to be desired:—‘We were now above all the
eminences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared
away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks
which we before looked up to with astonishment, were now far below our
feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the
north, Snowdon and its dependencies shut up the scene; on the west, we
saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance
by the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers
against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded
by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the
opening of the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over
the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long
chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the confines of
Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising
alone from the plain of Salop.’
“At the foot of the mountain is the little village of Tal-y-Llyn, which
borrows its name from the church at the head of the lake, not unmeetly
denominated by the people ‘the Charming Retreat.’ The church, a simple
antique building, is dedicated to St. Mary. The parish extends about
eight miles, embracing in its circuit a large portion of the mountainous
chain. The whole vicinity, wood, and hill, and lake—stirred by the
winds, or clothed with the yellow hues of autumn—wore a highly
picturesque yet dreary aspect; and I took great delight in exploring a
number of bold, romantic streams and falls, all within the limits of this
interesting district. Tal-y-Llyn (the Head of the Lake), with its little
church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at the west end of the pool, in a
long valley lying below the lofty ranges of Cader Idris. Looking
north-east, the vale is contracted by the mountain bases, with their
sides broken into a thousand crags, some sharp and conical, and others
overhanging, as if ready to fall upon the heedless traveller, who wends
his way beneath their shadows. Pen-y-Delyn (or the Harp Rock) is there,
bearing a resemblance in its figure to that instrument, with its indented
and perforated summit, ready to receive the first breath of the morning,
and to herald the rising beam of the great luminary with the fabled music
of Memnon; and Llam-y-Ladron too, (or the Thieves’ Leap), the Tarpeian
Rock from whose fearful top, it is said, the ancient Britons used to cast
their felon brethren.”
Of the heights of Cader Idris, of Arran Vowddwy, and of the Arrenig Vawr,
says Mr. Pennant, I am enabled to give a very exact account, by the
assistance of the ingenious Mr. M. Hughes, of Bala, who assures me that
the Pen-y-Gader is 2858 feet above the level of Dolgelley-green;
Arran-Vowddwy, 740 above Llyntegid; and the Arrenig, only 20 yards short
of Arran; that the fall from the lake to Dolgelley-green, is 180 yards;
so that the real difference of height between the Cader and the Arran is
only thirty yards. Two graves, where human bodies were deposited, have
lately been discovered at the foot of Cader Idris, under two immense
carnedds.
Within the last few years, for the accommodation of visitors, a cottage
has been erected on the summit of the mountain, by Richard Pugh, who
resides at Dolgelley, and who acts in the capacity of a guide. This has
proved of great advantage to visitors, who were not unfrequently assailed
by the teeming shower, without an opportunity of shelter; and who had no
spot for temporary refreshment while waiting for the dispersion of misty
clouds in order to enjoy the exquisite prospect. Here parties or
individuals may have all convenient refreshments. The road up the
mountain on the Dolgelley side has lately been much improved, so as to
enable ladies and gentlemen to ride up to the very top with the greatest
ease and safety, which cannot be done on the other side of the mountain
without great danger. The charge of the guide for conducting a party to
the summit is five shillings, and the same sum is paid for each of the
ponies employed in the ascent.
For angling stations, see Dolgelley and Tal-y-Llyn.
CAERGWRLE,
(_Flintshire_.)
Chester 12
Hawarden 6
Mold 6
Wrexham 5
Caergwrle was once a flourishing town, but has dwindled into an
insignificant village. Its parish church is about a mile distant. There
is good reason for believing that Caergwrle was a Roman station, probably
an outpost to Deva. Camden discovered here an hypocaust, hewn out of the
solid rock, six yards and a quarter long, five yards broad, and somewhat
more than half a yard in height. On some of the tiles were inscribed the
letters, “Legio xx.” which seem to denote the founders. This is further
corroborated by the name of the place, “Caer gawr lleng,” (the camp of
the great legion), Cawr lleng being the name by which the Britons
distinguished the twentieth legion.
The castle stood on the summit of a high rock. Its present remains are
very inconsiderable; they are, however, sufficient to indicate that it
never could have been a fortress of any great importance.
Hope, {73} or Queen’s Hope,
Is an inconsiderable village, little more than a mile from Caergwrle; it
also has the remains of a castle, at which Eleanor, queen of Edward the
First, made some stay on her way to Caernarvon.—Within a short distance
are the mansions of Bryn Yorkyn and Plâs Têg. Caergwrle and Hope, in
conjunction with Flint, Caerwys, Rhuddlan, Overton, and Holywell, send a
member to Parliament.
Angling station:—the river Alun.