INTRODUCTION.

Transcribed from the 1847 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price.

[Picture: Conway Bridge & Castle]

EXCURSIONS

IN

NORTH WALES:

A COMPLETE

GUIDE TO THE TOURIST

THROUGH

THAT ROMANTIC COUNTRY;

CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS

OF ITS

PICTURESQUE BEAUTIES, HISTORICAL ANTIQUITIES

AND MODERN WONDERS.

* * * * *

* * * * *

EDITED BY JOHN HICKLIN,

OF THE CHESTER COURANT.

* * * * *

LONDON:

WHITTAKER AND CO.; HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.;

LONGMAN AND CO.; AND SIMPKIN AND CO.

R. GROOMBRIDGE & SONS.

W. CURRY AND CO., DUBLIN.

GEORGE PRICHARD (LATE SEACOME & PRICHARD), CHESTER.

* * * * *

1847.

INTRODUCTION.

The ancient City of Chester is unquestionably the most attractive and

convenient starting-place, from which should commence the journey of the

tourist, who is desirous of exploring the beautiful and romantic country

of North Wales, with its lovely valleys, its majestic mountains, its

placid lakes, its rushing torrents, its rural retreats, and its

picturesque castles. Before leaving Chester, however, it will amply

repay the intelligent traveller to devote some time to the examination of

the many objects of interest, with which the “old city” abounds. A

ramble round the Walls, embracing a circuit of about two miles, will not

only disclose to the stranger a succession of views, illustrative of the

quaint architecture and the singular formation of the city, but will

reveal a series of landscapes of the most varied and charming

description; while the ancient fortifications themselves, with their four

gates and rugged towers, serve to exemplify the features of that troubled

age, when they were erected for the protection of our ancestors against

hostile invasions. Another striking peculiarity of Chester is the

construction of the covered promenades, or Rows, in which the principal

mercantile establishments are situated: unique and very curious are these

old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian, as they are

convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in “shopping.”

The singular old houses, too, with their elaborately carved gables, of

which Watergate-street, Bridge-street, and Northgate-street, furnish some

remarkable specimens, will naturally attract attention. Among public

edifices, the venerable Cathedral, though not possessing much claim to

external elegance, is replete with interest, from the style of its

architecture, and the many historical associations which a visit within

its sacred precincts awakens. The cloisters and the chapter-house are

interesting memorials of olden time; while the beautiful and effective

restoration of the choir, which has lately been completed under the

skilful superintendence of Mr. Hussey, of Birmingham, commands the

admiration of all who take pleasure in ecclesiological improvements. The

fittings of the interior have been entirely renovated; the Bishop’s

throne, a splendid and characteristic erection, has been restored; a new

stone pulpit (the gift of Sir E. S. Walker, of Chester) has been

introduced, to harmonise with the style of the building; an altar screen,

to divide the Lady Chapel from the choir, has been presented by the Rev.

P. W. Hamilton, of Hoole; the eastern windows have been filled with

stained glass, of admirable design and execution, by Mr. Wailes, of

Newcastle; and a powerful organ, which cost £1000, has been built by

Messrs. Gray and Davison, of London. The expenses of the restoration

were defrayed by public subscription; and too much praise cannot be given

to the Dean (Dr. F. Anson) for the zeal and liberality with which he has

promoted these gratifying improvements, as well as for the efficient and

orderly manner in which the choral services of the Cathedral are

conducted. The fine old Church of St. John the Baptist, which in the

tenth century was the Cathedral of the diocese, with the adjacent ruins

of the Priory, should not be left unvisited; and St. Mary’s Church also

presents, in its roof and monuments, some objects of interest worth

examining. Of the ancient Castle, very little, except Julius Cæsar’s

tower, remains; but a magnificent modern structure, for military and

county purposes, has been erected on the site of the old edifice, after

designs by the late Mr. Harrison, of Chester. The shire-hall is an

elegant fabric of light-coloured stone, the principal entrance to which

is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and

3 feet 1½ inch in diameter, each formed of a single stone. The

court-room is a spacious semi-circular hall, lighted from above. The

county prison is behind, on a lower level, whence prisoners are brought

into the dock by a flight of steps. The extremities of the county-hall

are flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each other,

appropriated as barracks for the officers and soldiers of the garrison.

In the higher ward is an armoury, where from thirty to forty thousand

stand of arms, and other munitions of war, are constantly kept, in the

same beautifully arranged manner as at the Tower of London. The spacious

open area in front of the Castle is enclosed by a semi-circular wall,

surmounted with iron railings; in the centre is the grand entrance, of

Doric architecture, greatly admired for its chaste construction and

elegant execution. The front view is classical and imposing.

A noble Bridge crosses the Dee at the south-east angle of the Roodee, the

picturesque Race-course of Chester; it is approached by a new road from

the centre of Bridge-street, which passes by the castle esplanade,

proceeds across the city walls, and then by an immense embankment thrown

over a deep valley. The bridge consists of one main stone arch, with a

small dry arch or towing path on each side, by which the land

communication is preserved on both sides of the river. The

distinguishing feature of this edifice is the unparalleled width of the

chord or span of the main arch, which is of greater extent than that of

any other arch of masonry known to have been constructed. Of its

dimensions the following is an accurate delineation:—The span of the arch

is _two hundred feet_; {0} the height of the arch from the springing

line, 40 feet; the dimensions of the main abutments, 48 feet wide by 40,

with a dry arch as a towing path at each side, 20 feet wide, flanked with

immense wing walls, to support the embankment. The whole length of the

road-way, 340 feet. Width of the bridge from outside the parapet walls,

35 feet 6 inches, divided thus: carriage-road, 24 feet; the two

causeways, 9 feet; thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 inches.

Altitude from the top of the parapet wall to the river at low water mark,

66 feet 6 inches. The architectural plan of this bridge was furnished by

the late Mr. Thomas Harrison; Mr. James Trubshaw, of Newcastle,

Staffordshire, was the builder; Mr. Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool, the

surveyor. The bridge was formally opened in October, 1832, by her Royal

Highness the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, on occasion of her visit and

that of her royal parent, the Duchess of Kent, to Eaton Hall. As a

compliment to her noble host, the bridge was named Grosvenor Bridge by

the young Princess.

Our limited space prevents us from entering into particular descriptions

of other buildings and antiquities, which might well claim our attention;

as the remarkable Crypt and Roman Bath in Bridge-street, the Museum at

the Water Tower, the Blue Goat Hospital, the Training College, the Linen

Hall, the Episcopal Palace, the Exchange, &c.; but we must not omit to

remind the stranger, that when at Chester, he is only three miles distant

from that magnificent modern mansion, Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis

of Westminster. The approach to the beautiful and extensive park in

which this princely abode is situated, is by an elegant Lodge on the

Grosvenor Road, about a quarter of a mile from Chester Castle; or the

excursion may be made by a boat on the lucid bosom of the river Dee,

which runs through verdant meads and lovely scenery close by the

pleasure-grounds of the Hall. Visitors must be careful to provide

themselves with tickets, which may be obtained of the publisher of this

little work in Bridge-street Row, or they will not be admitted to view

the interior of the mansion. The elaborate adornments, the gorgeous

fittings, and the truly magnificent architecture of Eaton Hall, with its

superb furniture, its beautiful pictures, and exquisite sculpture, never

fail to excite the most lively admiration; and to pass it without a call,

would be held by the residents of this neighbourhood to be a sort of

topographical heresy, of which tourists should not be guilty.

Having satisfied their taste and curiosity by exploring the attractions

and characteristics of Chester and the vicinity, we will suppose that our

travellers are now ready to proceed into Wales; and for the purpose of

directing and enlivening their journey, we present them, in this little

Manual, with a faithful Guide and an amusing Companion by the way. The

admirer of Nature, in her wildest or her loveliest guise; the man of

antiquarian research, the student of history, the valetudinarian in quest

of health, or the ardent votary of “the rod and line,” anxiously seeking

for favourable spots where the angler may best indulge his piscatorial

fancies; may find in the following pages some information adapted to his

taste and pursuits.

Among the other advantages which Chester possesses as a starting-place

for visiting the Principality, may be mentioned its position as a grand

central terminus, where the London and North Western, the Chester and

Holyhead, the Shrewsbury and Chester, the Chester and Birkenhead, and the

Lancashire and Cheshire Junction Railways, meet. A splendid station,

commensurate with the requirements of the traffic from this combination

of railway interests, will forthwith be built at Chester, at an estimated

cost of £80,000. The Shrewsbury and Chester line being now open as far

as Ruabon, pleasant excursions can easily be made to the vale of

Gresford, Wrexham, Wynnstay Park, and Llangollen: and as in August of

this year (1847) the Chester and Holyhead Railway will be opened as for

as Conway, visits to that delightful locality, including the intermediate

stations for Flint, Mostyn, St. Asaph, Rhyl, and Abergele, may then be

enjoyed in a day. Facilities like these will no doubt tend greatly to

increase the number of tourists to North Wales; where the principal

hotels are admirably conducted, and carriages, cars, and horses, with

civil drivers well acquainted with the country, may be engaged on

satisfactory terms.

It may not be without its use to indicate a few excursions, which would

include some of the most interesting and romantic parts of the

Principality. From Chester, a charming trip may be taken to Hawarden,

Holywell, St. Asaph, Abergele, Conway, Aber, Bangor, Menai Bridge,

Beaumaris; returning by Penrhyn Castle, the Nant Ffrancon Slate Quarries,

Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-Coed, Pentrevoelas, Corwen,

Llangollen, Wynnstay Park, Wrexham, Eaton Hall, Chester; or Eaton Hall

may be taken on leaving Chester, Wrexham next, and so on to Beaumaris,

returning by Conway and Holywell. This route may be comfortably

accomplished in four days; or if pressed for time, in three, as the

railway would be available from Ruabon (Wynnstay Park) to Chester.

Another excursion, which would occupy four days, might be made by taking

the railway from Chester to Birkenhead, embarking at Liverpool in the

steam-packet which passes Beaumaris and the Menai bridge for Caernarvon,

thence to Beddgelert, Pont Aberglaslyn, and return, ascend Snowdon,

descend to Dolbadarn, Pass of Llanberis, Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol,

and return by Nant Ffrancon slate quarries, Penrhyn Castle and Bangor,

thence by steamer to Liverpool.

An agreeable and more extended route may also be taken from Caernarvon to

Clynog, Pwllheli, Criccieth, Tremadoc, Port Madoc, Tan-y-bwlch,

Maentwrog, Ffestiniog, Beddgelert, Nant Gwynan, Capel Curig,

Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-coed, Llanrwst, Conway, Penmaen Mawr, Aber,

and Bangor for the packet to Liverpool.

Another journey may be accomplished in nine days:—from Chester to Eaton

hall, Wrexham, Wynnstay, Chirk Castle, Llangollen, Valle Crucis Abbey,

Corwen, Vale of Edeirnion, Bala, Dolgelley, Cader Idris, Barmouth,

Harlech, Maentwrog, Tan-y-Bwlch, Ffestiniog, Port Madoc, Tremadoc, Pont

Aberglaslyn, Beddgelert, Capel Curig, Dolbadarn, Victoria Hotel, Snowdon,

Caernarvon, Menai bridge, Bangor, Aber, Conway, Abergele, St. Asaph,

Denbigh, Ruthin, Mold, Chester.

Those whose time is less limited can readily select tours which will

include a wider range of country, according to their taste and

convenience; we have, therefore, adopted, in our literary panorama, an

alphabetical arrangement, which, with the aid of the index, will direct

the reader to the description of any place he may be desirous of

visiting; and, as the distances are also marked, he may readily calculate

the extent of the route he contemplates. The work has been compiled from

authentic sources, and has been carefully revised, throughout, by the

present editor, with the view of presenting to the public an accurate and

entertaining Guide-book through North Wales.