It was begun in the year 950 (A.D. 1543), and finished in the year——,

and is beyond all description beautiful. The learned, who composed the

metrical inscriptions, containing the date of its erection, confess

that they are not able duly to express its praise; a task which I, the

contemptible Evliyà, am now striving to perform as far as my ability

will allow. This incomparable mosque was built by Sultán Suleïmán

on one-half of the unoccupied half of the summit of the lofty hill

on which had been erected, by Mohammed II, the old Seráï. Suleïmán

having assembled all the thousands of perfect masters in architecture,

building, stone-hewing, and marble-cutting, who were found in the

dominions of the house of ’Osmán, three whole years were employed

in laying the foundations. The workmen penetrated so far into the

earth, that the sound of their pickaxes was heard by the bull that

bears up the world at the bottom of the earth. In three more years the

foundations reached the face of the earth; but in the ensuing year the

building was suspended, and the workmen were employed in sawing and

cutting various-coloured stones for the building above the foundations.

In the following year the Mihráb was fixed in the same manner as that

of Sultán Báyazíd’s mosque; and the walls, which reached the vault

of heaven, were completed, and on those four solid foundations they

placed its lofty dome. This vast structure of azure stone is more

circular than the cupola of Ayá Sófiyah, and is seven royal cubits

high. Besides the square piers which support it, there are, on the

right and left sides, four porphyry columns, each of which is worth ten

times the amount of the tribute (Kharáj) from Misr. These columns were

brought from the capital of Misr, along the Nile, to Iskanderiyyeh,

and there embarked on rafts, by Karinjeh Kapúdán, who in due time

landed them at Ún-kapání; and having removed them from thence to the

square called Vefà-méïdán, in the neighbourhood of the Suleïmániyyeh,

delivered them up to Suleïmán Khán; expressing his wish that they

might be received as a tribute from Karinjah (_i.e._ the Ant), just

as a gift was graciously received from the Queen of Ants by Solomon.

The Emperor, to shew his gratitude, immediately settled upon him the

Sanjaks of Yilánlí-jezíreh-sí, and the island of Ródós. God knows, that

four such columns of red porphyry, each fifty cubits high, are to be

found no where else in the world. On the side next to the Mihráb, and

on that opposite to it, the dome is joined by two semi-domes, which do

not, however, rest on those columns, as the architect was afraid of

overloading them. Sinán opened windows on every side to give light to

the mosque. Those over the Mihráb and Minber are filled with coloured

glass, the brilliance of whose colours within, and the splendour of the

light reflected from them at noon, dazzle the eyes of the beholders,

and fill them with astonishment. Each window is adorned with some

hundreds of thousands of small pieces of glass, which represent either

flowers, or the letters forming the excellent names (_i.e._ the Divine

attributes); they are, therefore, celebrated by travellers all over

the world. Though the Mihráb, Minber, and Mahfil of the Muëzzins are

only formed of plain white marble, yet the last is of such exquisite

workmanship, that it seems to be the Mahfil of Paradise; the Minber is

also made of plain marble, but is surmounted by a conical tiara-like

canopy, the like of which is no where to be found; and the Mihráb is

like that of his Majesty Solomon himself. Above it there is engraved

in letters of gold, on an azure ground, from the hand-writing of

Karah-hisárí, this text of the Korán (iii. 32), “Whenever Zakariyyà

(Zacharias) went into the chamber (mihráb) to her.” On the right and

left of the Mihráb there are spirally-twisted columns, which appear

like the work of magic. There are also candlesticks of a mans stature,

made of pure brass, and gilt with pure gold, which hold candles of

camphorated bees’-wax, each 20 kantárs (quintals) in weight. The ascent

to each of them is by a wooden staircase of fifteen steps, and they

are lighted every night. In the left corner of the mosque is a gallery

(mahfil) raised on columns, for the private use of the Sultán; and

it also contains a special Mihráb. Besides this gallery, there are

four others, one on each of the large piers, for the readers of the

lessons from the Korán. On both sides of the mosque there are benches

(soffahs), supported by low columns, and outside of it, parallel with

these benches within, galleries, supported on columns, one of which

looks upon the sea, and the other on the market. When the mosque is

very much crowded, many persons perform their devotions on these

benches. There are also, round the cupola, within the mosque, two rows

of galleries supported by columns, which, on the blessed nights, are

lighted with lamps. The total number of the lamps is 22,000; and there

are likewise some thousands of other ornaments suspended from the roof.

There are windows on all the four sides of the mosque, through each of

which refreshing breezes enter and revive the congregation; so that

they seem to be enjoying eternal life in Paradise. This mosque is also,

by the will of God, constantly perfumed by an excellent odour, which

gives fragrance to the brain of man, but has no resemblance to the

odour of earthly flowers. Within the mosque, beside the southern gate

(kibleh), there are two piers, from each of which springs a fountain of

pure water, in order to quench the thirst of the congregation; and in

the upper part of the building there are certain cells for the purpose

of keeping treasures, in which the great people of the country and some

thousands of travellers keep their money, to an amount which the Great

Creator alone knows!

_In Praise of the Writing of Karah Hisárí._

There never has been to this day, nor ever will be, any writing which

can compare with that of Ahmed Karah Hisárí, outside and inside of

this mosque. In the centre of the dome there is this text of the Korán

(xxiv. 35): “God is the light of heaven and earth; the similitude of

his light is as a niche in a wall wherein a lamp is placed, and the

lamp enclosed in a case of glass:” a text justly called the Text of

Light, which has been here rendered more luminous by the brilliant

hand which inscribed it. The inscription over the semi-dome, above

the Mihráb, has been already given. On the opposite side, above the

southern gate, there is this text (vi. 79): “I direct my face unto him

who hath created the heavens and the earth: I am orthodox.” On the

four piers are written, “Allah, Mohammed, Abú Bekr, ’Omar, ’Osmán,

’Alí, Hasan, and Hoseïn. Over the window to the right of the Minber:

“Verily, places of worship belong to God; therefore, invoke not any

one together with God.” Besides this, over the upper windows, all the

excellent names (of God) are written. These are in the Shikáfí hand;

but the large writing in the cupola is in the Guzáfí hand, of which

the Láms, Elifs, and Káfs, each measure ten ells; so that they can be

read distinctly by those who are below. This mosque has five doors. On

the right, the Imám’s (Imám kapú-sí); on the left the Vezír’s (Vezír

kapú-sí), beneath the imperial gallery, and two side doors. Over that

on the left is written (Kor. xiii. 24), “Peace be upon you, because ye

have endured with patience! How excellent a reward is Paradise!” Over

the opposite gate this text: “Peace be upon you! Ye are righteous;

enter in and dwell in it for ever!” Beneath this inscription, on the

left hand, is added, “This was written by the Fakír Karah Hisárí.”

_Description of the Court (Harem)._

The court of this mosque has three gates, to which there is an ascent

and descent by three flights of steps. It is paved with white marble,

and is as smooth and level as a carpet. Though very spacious, the

body of the mosque is still larger. Round its four sides there are

benches (soffahs) of stone, forty feet broad, upon which columns of

coloured stones rest, supporting arches of different hues, as various

as those of the rainbow. The windows of this court are guarded by

iron gratings, the bars of which are as thick as a man’s arm, and so

finely polished, that even now not an atom of rust is seen upon them,

and they shine like steel of Nakhjuván. In the centre of this court

there is a beautiful fountain worthy of admiration, but it is not

calculated for ablutions, being only designed for the refreshment of

the congregation. Its roof is a low, broad, leaden cupola; but the

wonderful thing is this, that the water from the basin springs up as

though shot from a bow, to the centre of the cupola, and then trickles

down its sides like another Selsebíl. It is, indeed, a wonderful

spectacle. Over the windows on each side of this court there are texts

from the Korán inscribed in white letters on blue tiles. The door

opposite to the kibleh (_i.e._ the north door) is the largest of all;

it is of white marble, and has not its equal on earth for the beauty

and skill with which it is carved and ornamented. It is all built of

pure white marble, and the different blocks have been so skilfully

joined together by the builders that it is impossible to perceive any

crevice between them. Over the sill of the door there are sculptured

flowers and festoons of filagree work, interlaced with each other with

a skill rivalling the art of Jemshíd. On each side of this gate there

are buildings four-stories high, containing chambers for the muvakkits

(hour-cryers), porters, and sextons. At the entrance of this gate there

is a large circular block of red porphyry, which is unparalleled for

its size and the fineness of its polish. It is as large as a Mohammedan

simát (_i.e._ dinner-tray). Within the gate, on the right side of

the court, there is a square slab of porphyry, on which a cross was

sculptured, the traces of which are still visible, though it was erased

by the masons. The infidels offered a million of money for it in vain:

at length a royal ball was fired from a galleon of the infidels, lying

before Ghalatah, purposely at this slab, which was struck; but being on

the ground, it received no damage. So that the infidels, with all their

rancour, and skill in gunnery, could not break this stone, which had

become a threshold of the Suleïmániyyeh; but the mark of the ball still

remains, and raises the astonishment of all beholders.

On the pedestals of the columns round the four sides of this court

(harem) there are brass plates, on which the dates of memorable events,

such as great fires, earthquakes, revolts and tumults, are engraven.

This mosque has four minarets, the galleries of which are ten in

number, as a record that Sultán Suleïmán Khán was the tenth Sultán of

the House of ’Osmán. The two minarets adjoining to the body of the

mosque have each three galleries, to which there is an ascent by a

staircase of two hundred steps; the two minarets at the inner angles of

the court are lower, and have but two galleries each. Of the two lofty

minarets which have three galleries, that on the left is called the

Jewel Minaret, for the following reason:—Sultán Suleïmán, when building

this mosque, in order to allow the foundations to settle, desisted, as

has been already observed, for a whole year, during which the workmen

were employed on other pious works. Sháh Tahmás Khán, King of ’Ajem

(Persia), having heard of this, immediately sent a great Ambassador to

Suleïmán, with a mule laden with valuable jewels, through friendship,

as he said, for the Sultán, who, from want of money, had not been

able to complete this pious work. The Ambassador presented the Sháh’s

letter to the Sultán while surrounded with the innumerable builders

and workmen employed about the mosque; and the latter, incensed on

hearing the contents of the letter, immediately, in the Ambassador’s

presence, distributed the jewels which he had brought to all the Jews

in Islámból, saying, “Each Ráfizí, at the awful day of doom changed

to an ass, some Jew to hell shall bear! To them, therefore, I give

this treasure, that they may have pity on you on that day, and be

sparing in the use of their spurs and whips.” Then giving another

mule laden with jewels to Sinán, the architect, he said, still in the

Ambassador’s presence, “These jewels, which were sent as being so

valuable, have no worth in comparison with the stones of my mosque;

yet, take them and mingle them with the rest.” Sinán, in obedience to

the Sultán’s command, used them in building the six-sided basis of this

mínaret, which derives its name from thence. Some of the stones still

sparkle when the sun’s rays fall upon them; but others have lost their

brilliance from exposure to excessive heat, snow, and rain. In the

centre of the arch, over the Kibla gate, there is a Níshábúrí turquoise

(pírúzeh), as large in circumference as a cup. There are on the two

sides of this mosque forty different places where ablutions can be

renewed.

_A Description of the Imperial Mausoleum._

At the distance of a bow-shot from the Mihráb, in the midst of a

delightful garden, is the sepulchre of Suleïmán, itself an unparalleled

edifice, being crowned by a double cupola, so that one is placed over

the other, the smaller below and the larger above. There is not, in the

whole civilized world, a building so richly ornamented with wonderful

sculptures and carvings in marble as this!

_Description of the Outer Court._

The outer court of this mosque is a large sandy level planted with

cypresses, planes, willows, limes, and ashes; and surrounding three

sides of the building. It has ten gates: two on the Kibla side; _viz._

that of Merá, and that of the old Serái; on the south side, the Mekteb

(school gate), chàrshù (market), medreséh (college), and Hakím-Báshi

(Head Physicians) gates. On the west, the Imareh (alms-house),

Táv-kháneh (hospital), and Aghá’s gate (Aghá kapú-sí). On the north

side a stone staircase of twenty steps to the gate of the dome of one

thousand and one nails, so called because that number of nails was

used in constructing it. There is also the Hammám kapú-sí (bath-gate)

looking eastwards, whence there is a descent of twenty steps to the

bath. On this side the court (harem) is not enclosed by a wall, but

merely by a low parapet, that the view of the city of Islámból may not

be interrupted. There the congregation remains and enjoys a full view

of the imperial palace, Uskudár (Scutari), the castle of the Canal

(Bógház Hísárí) Beshik-tásh, Tóp-khaneh, Ghalatah, Kásim Páshá, the

Okmeidán, and the harbour (khalíj) and strait (Bogház) traversed by a

thousand boats and barges and other kinds of vessels—a spectacle not

to be equalled in any other place in the world! The circumference

of this outer court (harem) is one thousand paces. There is also a

smaller court called the Pehliván Demir meïdání (_i.e._ wrestlers’

iron ground) between this mosque and the walls of the old serai. It

is a valley where wrestlers from all the convents exercise themselves

when afternoon-prayer is over (ba’de-l’asr). To the right and left of

this mosque there are four great colleges for the education of lawyers

in the four (orthodox) sects, which are now filled with men of the

most profound learning. There is likewise a Dár ul-hadís, or school

for instruction in the traditional law; a Dár-ul-karrà, or school for

instruction in the recitation or chaunting of the Korán; a college for

the study of medicine; a school for children; a hospital, a refectory,

an alms-house, a hospital for strangers (Táv-kháneh), a karbánserái for

comers and goers, a market for goldsmiths and button and boot makers,

a bath, with apartments for the students, and thousands of chambers

for their servants; so that within the precincts of the mosque there

are altogether not less than 1001 cupolas. Seen from Ghalatah the

Suleïmániyyeh seems like one vast plain covered with lead. The whole

number of servants attached to the mosque is three thousand. They

are maintained by secure and liberal endowments, all the islands in

the White Sea, as Istankoi (Stanco), Sákiz (Chios), Ródós (Rhodes),

&c. having been settled on it by Sultan Suleïmán. Its revenues are

collected by five hundred men under the direction of the mutevellí

(commissioner). There is no building in the whole empire of Islám

stronger or more solid than this Suleïmániyyeh; nor has any cupola

ever been seen which can be compared to this. Whether the solidity

of its foundation, or the wonderful beauty and perfection of its

different parts, be considered, it must be allowed to be, both within

and without, the finest and most durable edifice which the world ever

beheld. When it was finished, the architect Sinán said to the sultan:

“I have built for thee, O emperor, a mosque which will remain on the

face of the earth till the day of judgment: and when Halláj Mansúr

comes, and rends Mount Demavund from its foundation, he will play at

tennis with it and the cupola of this mosque.” Such were the terms in

which he extolled its strength and durability; and indeed, standing

on a lofty hill surrounded and strengthened below by various walls

and bulwarks, its foundations are peculiarly solid. First, there is

the upper wall of the Tahtu-l kal’ah; then, that of Siyávush Pashá’s

palace; next, that of the Yenícherí Aghá’s; afterwards, that of the

cistern in the little market: then those of the Aghá’s school, the

warm bath, the lead magazine, and hospital. The foundations of all

these buildings may be considered as the outworks of the foundation

of this mosque. The humble writer of these lines once himself saw ten

Franc infidels skilful in geometry and architecture, who, when the

door-keeper had changed their shoes for slippers, and had introduced

them into the mosque for the purpose of shewing it to them, laid their

finger on their mouths, and each bit his finger from astonishment

when they saw the minarets; but when they beheld the dome they tossed

up their hats and cried Maryah! Maryah! and on observing the four

arches which support the dome on which the date A.H. 944 (A.D. 1537)

is inscribed, they could not find terms to express their admiration,

and the ten, each laying his finger on his mouth, remained a full hour

looking with astonishment on those arches. Afterwards, on surveying the

exterior, the court, its four minarets, six gates, its columns, arches

and cupolas, they again took off their hats and went round the mosque

bareheaded, and each of the ten bit his fingers from astonishment, that

being their manner of testifying the greatest amazement. I asked their

interpreter how they liked it, and one of them who was able to give an

answer, said, that nowhere was so much beauty, external and internal,

to be found united, and that in the whole of Fringistán there was not

a single edifice which could be compared to this. I then asked what

they thought of this mosque compared with Ayá Sófiyah; they answered,

that Ayá Sófiyah was a fine old building, larger than this, and very

strong and solid for the age in which it was erected, but that it

could not in any manner vie with the elegance, beauty, and perfection

of this mosque, upon which, moreover, a much larger sum of money had

been expended than on Ayá Sófiyah. Indeed, it is said, that every ten

Miskáls of stone used in this mosque cost a piece of gold (a ducat).

The entire sum expended in this building amounted to 890,883 yuks

(74,242,500 piastres).

Another of Sultan Suleïmán’s monuments at Islámból is the Forty

Fountains. Desirous of bringing into the city some sweet water which

had been discovered at a considerable distance, he consulted the

famous architect Sinán, who replied, that an undertaking so difficult

would require enormous sums of money. Suleïmán promised to provide the

necessary funds; the work was commenced, and in the course of seven

years 3,700 arches were constructed, thus forming an aqueduct, and

joining that of Yánkó Mádiyán near the horse-market. By this means the

delicious water was circulated throughout the city, and the souls of

the thirsty were made glad. In some parts the arches rise two or three

stories high.

Suleïmán also commenced the bridge of Chekmejeh, which was completed

by Selim II. He also built the mosques of Shehzádeh, Jehángír, and

Khásseki; the new arsenal; and the college of Selim I., founded

at the Koshk of the Khaljiler, and dedicated to the memory of his

father; a mosque at Uskudár, called after his illustrious daughter

Mehrebán, and two Kháns. In Rumeïli the monuments of his bounty are

almost innumerable: amongst them may be enumerated the fortresses

of Segdin, Sigeth, and Ouzi (Oczakow), on the frontiers. At Edreneh

(Adrianople) he constructed an aqueduct, a bridge, and a mosque and

refectory near the bridge of Mustafa Pasha. In Anátolí he built at

Konea, near the tomb of Jelál-ud-dín-Rúmi (may God sanctify his secret

state), a splendid mosque with two minárets, a college, a music-room

for the Dervíshes, a dining-room for the poor (_imaret_), a refectory,

and numerous cells for the poor Dervíshes. At Damascus, an extensive

mosque and a college. At Kaf and Iznik (Nice) he converted two churches

into mosques; a plan which he put into execution in all the towns

and palankas which were conquered during his long and victorious

reign. The cupola of the mosque of Solomon’s temple was also built

by this Emperor, and he adorned the cupola of the sacrificial stone

(_sakhra-i-sherif_) with ceilings of carved wood and stone, so that it

equals the gallery of Chinese paintings, and resembles paradise. After

the conquest of Baghdád, he erected over the tomb of the great Imám,

Noamán-ben-Thábet, a castle, and a mosque with a refectory; and over

the tomb of the Sheikh, Abdul-káder Jilani, a lofty cupola, a mosque,

a refectory and other buildings for pious purposes. For the benefit of

the holy cities (Mecca and Medina) he instituted the Surra, a present

of 62,000 ducats, which is annually transmitted to those places by the

Surrá-Emini; and the annual distribution of wearing apparel. He also

repaired the aqueduct built by Hárún-ur-rashíd, adding four fountains

to it, and conducting a stream to Mount Arefat. He moreover built at

Mecca four colleges in the same style as those of Rumeïli, and endowed

them in the same manner. He also rebuilt the cupola of Khadijeh, the

Mother of the Faithful, with numerous other pious foundations which we

shall have occasion to mention hereafter in the course of our travels:

our present object being only to describe those of Islámból. All these

pious works were effected by means of the prizes taken at Malta, Rodós,

Bodin, Kizil-álma (Rome), Belgrade on the Danube, Baghdád, and other

places; the whole amount of which is computed to have been 896,383

fulúrí (florins), which, according to the present value of money, would

be 53,782,009 aspres, or 74,666,666 paras, or 1,866,666 piastres.

During the reign of Suleimán Khán four aspres weighed one dirhem of

pure silver, and one hundred ducats weighed 118 dirhems.

_Description of the Mosque of Prince Mohammed._

According to the opinion of all architects and mathematicians, this

mosque is situated in the centre of the triangle of Islámból. It ranks

as the sixth imperial mosque, and was built by Suleimán Khán for his

favourite son Mohammed, who died at Magnesia, and was buried here. Its

cupola is an elegant piece of workmanship, and though not so large as

that of the Suleïmániyyeh, it rears its head majestically into the

skies: it is supported by rectangular pillars and four semi-domes. The

mihráb and minber are both of exquisite workmanship. The mahfil is

supported by eight columns, and on its left is the Sultán’s mahfil,

also supported by columns. This mosque has no large columns, but is

adorned with a double row of lamps amounting to eight thousand. It is

lighted by windows on every side, and has three gates, over one of

which, that opposite to the mihráb, is placed the chronogram: “The

place of prayer for the Prophet’s people, 955” (A.D. 1548), in which

year the foundation was laid. This also is of Sinán’s architecture.

It was commenced on the 1st of Rabi’-ul-avul, 955 (10th April 1548),

and was finished in the month of Rajab, 965 (April 1558). It cost

15,000,000 aspres. Facing the mihráb, in a most delightful garden

beneath a lofty cupola, is the tomb of Prince Mohammed, and beneath

another, that of his brother Jehángír, who died at Halep (Aleppo), and

was buried in this place. The court is adorned with numerous columns,

and in the centre there is a fountain, beneath a cupola supported by

eight columns, which was built by Murád IV. The two minarets, with

their double galleries, have not their equal in Islámból, Edreneh,

or Brusa, for ornaments and sculptures. The lead-covered roof is a

piece of art likewise well worthy of admiration. On three sides it

is surrounded by a large plain planted with trees, underneath one of

which, on the left-hand side of the mosque, is buried the Sheikh, Ali

Tabl, who was drummer in Iyyúbs expedition against Islámból. Round this

large court stand the college, refectory, and hospital for strangers

(Tav-khaneh); it has neither a bath nor a common hospital.

The mosque at Fundukli, dedicated to the memory of the prince Jehángír,

was also built by Suleimán. But this shall be described in its proper

place.

_Description of the Mosque of the Valideh._

This mosque, which is commonly called Khasseki-evret (the favourite of

the women), and is situated near the Evret-bazar, is not so large as

other mosques, and has only one mináreh. It has a common kitchen, a

refectory, a hospital, a college, and a school for children.

_Description of the Mosque of Mehr-máh Sultáneh._

It is a lofty mosque within the Adrianople-gate, and was built by

Sultán Suleimán Khán for his daughter Mehr-máh. Its mihráb, minber,

and mahfil, are remarkably neat; but there is no royal mahfil. It is

surrounded by the apartments of the college, a bath and a market. There

is neither refectory nor hospital.

In short, Sultán Suleimán Khán, during a reign of forty-eight years,

established order and justice in his dominions; marched victoriously

through the seven quarters of the globe, embellished all the countries

which were vanquished by his arms, and was successful in all his

undertakings; because, mindful of the sacred text, “Take advice in your

affairs,” he always consulted with his Ulemá.

The Vezirs during his reign were:—

Pír Mohammed Pasha, who was confirmed in his office on the accession of

the Sultán.

Ibrahim Pasha, who was educated in the imperial harem, built the seven

towers at Cairo, and hanged Ahmed Pasha, the rebellious governor of

that city.

Ayás Pasha, a native of Albania, but brought up in the harem.

Lutfí Pasha, also brought up in the harem. He had the Sultán’s sister

given him in marriage, but was dismissed from office for speaking

against a woman who was related to his wife.

Suleimán Pasha, a white eunuch, who took Dív-abád, Ahmed-abád, and

several other fortresses from the Portuguese, and gave them to the

Raï of India. He also conquered ’Aden, in Yemen (Arabia), and Habesh

(Abyssinia), assisted by Oz-demir-beg.

Rustam Pasha, a Khiroad (Croatian) by birth, and an Aristotle in wisdom.

Ahmed Pasha, a judicious, brave, and accomplished minister. He began

by being Chamberlain in the Serai, and was gradually promoted to the

office of Aghá of the Janissaries, Governor of Rumeïli, and Grand

Vezir. He once conducted a night attack against Sháh Tahmas of Persia,

and conquered Temesvar.

Kalen Ali Pasha, a native of the village of Parcha, in Hersek

(Herzegovina). He was first Chamberlain, then Aghá of the Janissaries,

Governor of Egypt, and Grand Vezir. He was a very corpulent man.

So-kolli Khojeh, Ali Pasha, a native of the village Sokol, now called

Shahín, in Bosnia, having held various inferior offices, was raised to

that of Vezir, which he held for forty years under three monarchs.

The Vezirs of the _kubbeh_ (cupola) who did not attain the rank of

Grand Vezir were:—Mustafa Pasha, the Bosnian; Ferhád Pasha, the

Albanian; Khaïn Ahmed Pasha, a rebellious Albanian who was hanged at

Cairo; Gózlujeh Kásím Pasha, who conquered Anabóli (Napoli), in the

Morea, and built the mosque bearing his name opposite Islámból; Hájí

Mohammed Pasha, poisoned at Bodin (Buda) by a Jew who boasted that he

had poisoned no less than forty Moslems; Khosru Pasha, the brother of

Khojeh Lála Mustafa Pasha; Khádem Ibrahím Pasha, a man of a brave and

generous disposition, who built the mosque bearing his name within the

Silivrí-gate; Khádem Heider Pasha, who was chief of the white eunuchs

in the harem, but was dismissed on suspicion of having been accessory

to the murder of the Prince Mustafa: he was an eloquent and learned

man, and died Governor of Hersek (Herzegovina); Balak Mustafa Pasha,

a Bosnian, Balak, in the Albanian language, signifying ‘old’: he was

Governor of Egypt and Capudan of the fleet, and was buried at Iyyúb;

Dámád Ferhád Pasha,—he was brother-in-law of Prince Mohammed, and was

an excellent calligrapher: a copy of the Korán of his penmanship may

even now be seen at the mausoleum of Sultán Báyazíd; Mustafa Pasha, who

was descended from Khaled, son of Valíd, and younger brother of Shemsi

Pasha: he was educated in the imperial harem, made Chakirji-bashi,

commanded the expedition against Malta when Governor of Rumeïli, died

on the pilgrimage to Mecca, and was buried by my father.

_Begler-begs in the reign of Sultán Suleimán._

Behram Pasha; Davúd Pasha, who died Governor of Egypt; Oveis Pasha,

Governor of Shám (Damascus); Dukakin Zádeh Gházi Mohammed Pasha,

Governor of Egypt; Oveis Pasha, Governor of Yemen (Arabia), he quaffed

the cup of martyrdom at the hand of Pehlevan Hassan, the robber;

Oz-demir Pasha, a relation of Ghori, the last Sultán of Egypt, a

Circassian by birth, and Conqueror of Habush (Abyssinia); Gházi Omer

Pasha, who built a mosque and imaret at Belgrade; Gházi Kásim Pasha,

who when Suleimán raised the siege of Pech (Vienna), headed the party

which made an excursion into Germany, and came round by Venedik

(Venice) to Essek with only three hundred men, the others having fallen

martyrs in the expedition: I visited many of their tombs in different

places in Germany; Gozlujeh Rustam Pasha, Aga of the Janissaries, and

afterwards Governor of Bodin (Buda); Suleimán Pasha, educated in the

harem: he died at Astúli (Stuhlweissenburg), of which he was Governor,

and was buried before its gate; Othmán Pasha, a Circassian, educated

in the Seraï, who was rewarded with the government of Rumeïli for a

night attack upon the Persian camp at Nakhchéván; Gházi Hassan Pasha,

who was in Arabia and Abyssinia, whence he went to Temeswar, of which

he was made Governor; Solak Ferhád Pasha, Governor of Baghdád, where

he died; Baltaji Mohammed Pasha, a Bosnian, who was dismissed from the

governorship of Baghdád, and died at Islámból; Harem Pasha, a Bosnian;

Pír Pasha, of the family of Ramezan; Kobad Pasha, step-brother of the

preceding; Músá Pasha, of the family of Isfendiyár,—he was Governor

of Erzerúm, and died in the war against the Georgian infidels; Khádem

Ali Pasha, who died whilst Governor of Cairo; Arslan Pasha, the son of

Sokolli Mohammed Pasha: he built the powder-magazine at Bódin (Buda),

and was executed on suspicion of having given up Tátá and Pápá to the

infidels; Ayás Pasha, brother of the Grand Vezir, Sinán Pasha: he was

beheaded; Behrám Pasha, Governor of Baghdád; Jenáblí Ahmed Pasha, who

was twenty years Governor of Anatóli, and built a mulevi (convent) and

bath at Angora; Olama Pasha, who was taken prisoner by the Persians,

amongst whom he became a Khán, but afterwards deserted them, and

returning to Rumeïli obtained the Sanják of Lippova, where he was

killed, after having sustained a siege of forty days. Yorksa Pasha,

educated in the harem; Shemsí Pasha, of the family of Kuzil Ahmedli,

and brother of the Vezir Mustafa Pasha: he was the confidential

minister of three Sultáns; Hájí Ahmed Pasha, of the same family; Damád

Hassan Pasha, the Sultan’s brother-in-law: he was sent as Ambassador

to Persia on account of the flight of the Prince Báyazíd, and suffered

martyrdom at Sivás: I have visited his tomb; Iskender Pasha, first

Bóstánjí báshí, and then Governor of Anatoli; Cherkess Iskender Pasha,

for fifteen years Governor of Díárbekr, where he died; Temerrúd Ali

Pasha, a native of Bosnia; Kara Mustafa Pasha, he was taken from the

chamber of pages; Khizr Pasha, a man of dignified manners, who was

educated in the harem; Kara Murád Pasha; Sufi Ali Pasha, who died

at Cairo, of which he was Governor; Gulábí Pasha, a man who loved

retirement, and conversed much with my father; it was he who related

the anecdote of himself, already mentioned in the Description of the

Mosque of Ayá Sófiyah: he was indeed a holy man; Mohammed Khán Pasha,

who was of the family of Zulkadr, and went over to Sháh Ismaïl, but

returning to the Ottomans, was made Governor of Rumeïli and Anatoli,

and was distinguished with the title of Jenáb (Excellency).

_Capudán Pashas of the Reign of Suleïmán._

Sinán Pasha, from the harem, a great tyrant.

Khairu-d-din Pasha (Barbarossa), born at Medelli (Mitylene), and

created Capudán in the year 940 (A.D. 1533). He died A.H. 970 (A.D.

1562), and was buried at Beshiktásh.

Saleh Pasha, a native of Kaz-tagh (Mount Ida), was Pasha of Algiers;

and, like his predecessor, a most active Admiral.

Yahia Pasha, Grand Admiral, and died Pasha of Algiers.

Torghúd Pasha, who suffered martyrdom at the siege of Malta.

Mohammed Pasha, who was Pasha of Egypt, and, like Khairu-d-din,

extended his devastations even to the islands of Ingleterra (England).

_Defterdárs and Nishánjis of the Reign of Sultán Suleïmán._

Defterdár Iskender Chelebi; Hyder Chelebi, of Gallipoli; Lufti Beg, of

the harem; Abulfazl Efendí; Abdi Chelebi, son of Jevizádeh’; Mustafa

Chelebi, who, though afflicted with palsy, continued to attend the

Diván, because he was an excellent penman; Mohammed Chelebi, who

was also called Egri Abdi Zádeh; Ibrahím Chelebi, who was the chief

Defterdár; Hasan Chelebi; Murád Chelebi, Jemáli Zádeh Mustafa Chelebi,

who in his prose and poetical compositions assumed the name of Nisháni:

he is the author of an historical work, entitled “Tabakátu-l-mamálek,”

and a statistical one, called “Kanún Námeh;” Ramazán Zádeh Mohammed

Chelebi, who was Nishánji, and author of a small historical work.

_Begs of Sultán Suleïmán’s Reign._

Kochek Báli Beg, son of the Grand Vezir, Yahia; Khosrú Beg, descended

from the daughter of Sultán Báyazíd: he built at Seráï, a mosque, a

khán, a bath, an imáret, a college, and a school, and achieved some

thousands of victories; Kara Othmán Sháh Beg, son of Kara Mustafa Beg

by the sister of Sultán Suleïmán: he built at Tarkhaleh a wonderful

mosque with a college and an imaret; Ali Beg Ibn Malkoch Beg, who

rendered himself famous in Croatia; Núbehar Zádeh, who was a disciple

of Jelál Zádeh, and was afterwards made Defterdár; Cherkess Kassim Beg,

who was Governor of Kaffa, in the Crimea, but afterwards went on an

expedition to Azhderhán (Astrachan) through the desert; Hájí Beg, who,

as Governor of Nablús, kept down the Arabs; Kurd Beg; Ján-búlád Beg, of

an illustrious Kurd family; Husein Beg, who was distinguished with the

title Jenáb (Excellency).

_Some of the Illustrious Divines of the Reign of Sultán Suleïmán._

Khairu-d-din Efendí, his Majesty’s Khojah; Seidi Chelebi, of Kastemúni;

Sheikh Mohammed Jiví-zádeh; Mollah Sheikh Mohammed Ben Kotbu-d-din;

Mollah Mohammed Ben Ahmed Ben ’Adíl-pasha, an excellent historian and

a good Persian poet; Mollah Abdul-fattáh Ebn Ahmed ’Adíl Pasha, a

native of Berdá, in Persia, and an amiable and intelligent man; Sheikh

Mohammed, of Tunis, an excellent reader of the Korán, the whole of

which he knew by heart; Zehíru-d-din, who came from Tabríz, and was

hanged at Cairo with the traitor Ahmed Pasha; Mollah Mohammed, a pupil

of Kemál Pasha-zádeh; Mevlená Yakúb, commonly called Ajéh Khaliféh,

professor at Magnesia, where he died, A.H. 969 (A.D. 1562); ’Ala’ud-dín

Jemáli, Sheikhu-l-Islám (_i.e._ Grand Mufti), which office he held

also under Sultan Selím I.; the Sheikhu-l-Islám Kemál Pasha-zadéh

Ahmed, who was Kázi-asker of Egypt under Selím I., and is celebrated

for his literary productions; the Sheikhu-l-Islam Abú-u-ssaod Efendí,

who wrote nearly a thousand treatises, and whose Commentary on the

Korán is highly valued: a volume might be written in his praise;

Mevlena-Mohíu-d-dín Arab-zédeh, who was drowned on his passage

to Egypt; Mevlena Ali, who wrote the Humáyiún Námeh (the Turkish

translation of Pilpay’s Fables); he was buried at Brusá.

_The Kanún-námeh or Statistical Code of the Empire, drawn up by Sultán

Suleïmán._

Section I.

The Province of Rúmeïli contains 24 Sanjaks, 1,227 Ziámets, 12,377

Timárs.

Bodin 17 Sanjaks, 278 Ziámets, 2,391 Timárs.

Ozi (Oczakov), 6 ditto 188 ditto 1,186 ditto

Bosnia, 7 ditto 150 ditto 1,792 ditto

Temesvar 6 ditto 190 ditto 1,090 ditto

Archipelago 15 ditto 73 ditto 1,884 ditto

Egra 9 ditto 1,081 ditto 4,000 ditto

—— 7 ditto 77 ditto 2,007 ditto

Kaffa 9 ditto (It has neither Ziámets nor Timárs).

Morea 5 ditto, but no Ziámets or Timárs.

Varadin 5 ditto.

Ardil (Transylvania) pays an annual tribute of 3,000 purses; as do also

Aflák (Wallachia), and Bóghdán (Moldavia). The Crimea has no Ziámets

or Timárs, but is governed by Kháns. Rodós (Rhodes) has five Sanjaks;

Kubrus (Cyprus) seven, and Candia thirteen Sanjaks; making, in all, 167

Sanjaks, 3,306 Ziámets, and 37,379 Timárs.

Anatóli has 14 Sanjaks, 399 Ziámets, 5,589 Timárs.

Karman 7 ditto 68 ditto 2,211 ditto

—— 7 ditto 108 ditto 3,699 ditto

Miráish 4 ditto 29 ditto 215 ditto

Shám (Damascus), 2 ditto 138 ditto 1,865 ditto

Trabalós 4 ditto 63 ditto 571 ditto

Seida (Sidon) 4 ditto 94 ditto 995 ditto

Halep (Aleppo), has 5 Sanjaks, 99 Ziámets, 833 Timárs.

Adna 5 ditto 43 ditto 1,659 ditto

Roha 2 ditto 4 ditto 6,026 ditto

Díárbekr 12 ditto 926 ditto 926 ditto

Erzerúm 9 ditto 133 ditto 5,159 ditto

Trebizonde 2 ditto 56 ditto 398 ditto

Gurjístán (Georgia) has no Sanjaks, Ziámets, or Timárs.

Kars 6 Sanjaks, 1 Ziámet, 1,363 Timárs

Jíldir 13 ditto 49 ditto 689 ditto

Ván 24 ditto 46 ditto 2,695 ditto

Mosúl 3 ditto 66 ditto 1,004 ditto

Sheherzúl 21 ditto 15 ditto 806 ditto

Baghdád has no ziámet or timár, but is held on an annual lease, as are

also Basrah and Lahsa: Yemen is governed by an Imám; Habesh (Abyssinia)

is subject to a tributary Sultán; Mesr (Egypt), Jezáïr (Algiers), Tunis

and Trabalos (Tripoli), are held by annual leases. There are in all 151

sanjaks, 1,571 ziámets, 41,286 timárs.

All the land of the Ottoman empire is divided into three parts: the

khás humáyún, or crown lands; the lands given to the vezírs and

begler-begs; and the lands divided into ziámets and timárs.

Section II.

_The Khás, or Revenues of the Begler-begs._

Rumeïli, 1,100,000 aspres; Anadolí, 1,000,000; Karamán, 60,671; Shám

(Damascus), 1,000,000; Sivás, 900,000; Erzerúm, 1,214,600; Díárbekr,

1,200,600; Ván, 1,132,200; Búdín (Bude), 880,000; the islands of the

Archipelago, 885,000; Haleb (Aleppo), 817,760; Mera’ish, 628,450;

Bosna, 650,000; Temiswár, 806,790; Kars, 827,170; Jíldir, 925,000;

Tarab-afzún (Trebizonde), 734,850; Rika, 681,056; Mosúl, 682,000;

Sheherzúl, 1,100,000; Trabalós Shám (Tripoli in Syria), 786,000; Ozí

(Oczakov), 988,000; Krím (Crimea), 12,000,000; Kaffa, the revenues of

this province are derived from the custom-house; the Páshá receiving

679,000 aspres; Egra (Erla), 800,080; Kanisa, 746,060; the Morea,

656,000; Baghdád, 1,200,200; Basrah, 1,000,000; Lahsa, 888,000; Habesh

(Abyssinia), 1,000,080; Egypt, 487 purses of Egypt; the revenues of

Tunis, Algiers, Tripoli, Cyprus, and Rhodes, which belong to the

Capúdán Páshás, amount to 1,200,700 aspres; Candia yielded 11,990

aspres: this island has since then been entirely conquered, but

during the reign of Suleïmán it was allotted with that small sum.

According to the constitutional laws of Suleïmán, the gradation of

the revenues of the governors followed the chronological order of the

conquest; thus the páshás of the provinces first conquered had greater

revenues than those conquered at a later period; and the old vezírs

at that time received an additional sanjak, under the name of Arpalík

(barley-money); thus the sanjak of Adna was given to old Mahmúd Páshá

with a revenue of 116,000 aspres. According to the Kánún, the Sultan

of Egypt has the privilege of wearing two aigrettes, and the Vezír

of Abyssinia is allowed to have two royal tents. The precedence of

the vezírs at public festivals, divans, &c. is as follows: The Vezír

of Egypt, of Baghdád, Abyssinia, Buda, Anatolí, Mera’ish, and the

Kapúdán-Páshá, if the scene is in Anadolí (Asia); but if in Rumeïlí

(Europe) it is as follows: the Vezír of Buda, Egypt, Abyssinia,

Baghdád, Rumeïlí, and then the other governors according to the

chronological order of the conquest. For every 500 aspres of revenue

one armed man is to be provided for the field.

Section III.

_Names of the Sanjaks of each Province._

Rumeïli has two Defterdárs, one of the treasury-office (mál), and of

the feudal tenures (tímár) a Kehiyá of Chávushes, an inspector of the

Defter (rolls), a Kehiyá of the Defter; an Aláï-beg (colonel of the

feudal militia); a Cherí-báshí (lieutenant-colonel); a Voinók-ághá, and

seven Yúrúk-begs. The twenty-four sanjaks are: 1. Sofia, the residence

of the Páshá. 2. Kústendíl. 3. Skutari. 4. Terkhaleh. 5. Ukhrí. 6.

Avlona. 7. Delvina. 8. Yánína. 9. Elbessán. 10. Chermen. 11. Saloník.

12. Askúb (Scopi). 13. Dúkágín. 14. Vídín. 15. Alájeh Hisár. 16.

Perzerín. 17. Vejterín. 18. Silistria. 19. Nicopolis. 20. Kirk-kílseh.

21. Bender. 22. Ak-kermán. 23. Ozí (Oczakov). 24. Kílbúrún.

_Sanjaks of the Province of Anádólí._

There is a Kehiyá, an Emín (inspector), and Muhásibjí (comptroller of

the defter or rolls), an Emín and Kehiyá of the Chávushes, a colonel

and captain of the feudal militia, four Begs called Musellim, and

eleven Yáyá Begs. 1. Kútáhieh. 2. Saríkhán. 3. Aïdía. 4. Kastamúni.

5. Bólí. 6. Munteshá. 7. Angora. 8. Kara-hisár. 9. Tekkeh. 10.

Hamid-sultán. 11. Ogí-karasí.

_Sanjaks of the Province of Karamán._

This province has a Defterdár of the treasury, and of the feuds, an

Emín of the Defter and of the Chávushes; a Kehiyá of the Defter and of

the Chávushes; an Aláï-beg (colonel), and Cherí-báshí (captain). 1.

Konia, the residence of the Páshá. 2. Kaiserieh (Cæsarea). 3. Níkdeh.

4. Yení-sheherí. 5. Kír-sheherí. 6. Ak-seráï.

_Sanjaks of Sívás._

The Defter (treasury) has a Kehiyá, and Emín, the Chávushes have the

same; there is besides a captain and Defterdár of the feuds. 1. Sívás,

the seat of the Páshá. 2. Deverbegi. 3. Khúrúm. 4. Keskín. 5. Búzouk.

6. Amasia. 7. Tokát. 8. Zíla. 9. Janík. 10. Arab-gír.

_Sanjaks of Bosna._

The officers are, the Defterdár of the treasury, the Kehiyá and Emín of

the rolls; the Kehiyá and Emín of the Chávushes, the Aláï-beg and the

Cherí-báshí. 1. Seráï, the seat of the Páshá. 2. Hersek. 3. Kilís. 4.

Zvorník. 5. Poshega. 6. Záchina. 7. Kírka. 8. Ráhovícha. 9. Banalúka.

_The Province of the Capúdán Páshá._

The officers are, the Kehiyá and Emín of the Defter and Chávushes,

the Aláï-beg and Cherí-báshí, the Aghás of the Arabs, and the Dáïs

of the Yúz-báshís. 1. Gallipoli, the seat of the Pasha. 2. Aghribúz

(Negropont). 3. Karlí-eilí (Acarnania). 4. Ainabakht (Naupaktus or

Lepanto). 5. Rodós (Rhodes). 6. Mytylini. 7. Kójá-eilí. 8. Bíghá. 9.

Izmit (Nicomedia). 10. Izmír (Smyrna).

_Sanjaks of the Morea._

Here there is neither Kehiyá nor Emín of the Defter. The Sanjaks are:

1. Misistra. 2. Mania. 3. Corone; Ayá Maura. 4. Napoli di Romania. The

sanjaks Sákiz (Chios), Naksha (Naxos), and Mahdia (in Africa), have

recently been added to the government of the Capudán-páshá.

_Sanjaks of Búdín (Bude)._

The number of officers attached to each province in this district

is complete, because it always has a grand diván. They are: 1. The

Defterdár of the treasury. 2. The defterdár of the Tímárs or feuds. 3.

The Kehiyá or deputy of the defter. 4. The Kehiyá of the Chávushes.

5. The Emín or inspector of the defter. 6. The Emín of the Chávushes.

7. The Aláï Beg, or colonel. 8. The Cherí-báshí or lieutenant-colonel

of the feudal militia. 9. The Pashá who resides at Bude. The Sanjaks

are: 1. Bude. 2. Segdin. 3. Sonluk. 4. Hetwán. 5. Sihún. 6. Germán. 7.

Filek. 8. Erla.

_Sanjaks of the Province of Kaniza._

This province was separated from the principality of Bude, and there

is no Defterdár either of the treasury or of the feudal militia. The

sanjaks are: 1. Siget. 2. Kopán. 3. Valiova, 4. Sokolofja.

_Sanjaks of Uivár (Neuhausel)._

This province was conquered only in the time of Mohammed IV., by

Kopreïlí Zádeh Ahmed Páshá. It is a well cultivated district. The

sanjaks are: 1. Litova. 2. Novígrád. 3. Húlichk. 4. Boyák. 5. Shaswár.

_The Province of Temiswar._

Here the usual offices were established during the reign of Mohammed

IV., at the time of its second conquest by Kopreïlí Ahmed Páshá. The

fortress of Yanova was then the seat of the Páshá. The sanjaks are: 1.

Lipova. 2. Kíánad. 3. Jíulei. 4. Mode. 5. Lugos. 6. Facias Arad. 7.

Five churches, the wakf (or pious bequest) of Sokollí Mohammed Páshá.

_The Province of Varasdin._

This province was conquered by Kozí Alí Páshá in the time of Mohammed

IV. Sanjaks: 1. Slanta. 2. Debrechin. 3. Khalmas. 4. Seus Giorgi.

The inhabitants of this country being all infidels, the tribute is

collected by Hungarian chiefs who forward it to Constantinople.

_Transylvania._

This principality was conquered during the reign of Sultan Mohammed

IV. by the arms of the brave Seïdí Ahmed Páshá; and Michael Apasty was

made viceroy on condition that he should pay an annual tribute of one

thousand purses besides certain presents. The population is composed of

native Transylvanians, of Siklev, and of Saxons; the latter have always

been disaffected towards the Osmánlí government.

_Valachia and Moldavia._

These are also infidel principalities governed by princes appointed

by the Ottoman government, and pay an annual tribute of two thousand

purses; they are considered as belonging to the province of Silistria.

_Oczakov or Silistria._

Here there are no public officers as in the other provinces, having

been detached from the government of Rúmeïlí. Its sanjaks are: 1.

Nikopolis. 2. Chermen. 3. Viza. 4. Kirk Kilisia (or forty churches). 5.

Bender. 6. Akkermán. 7. Oczakov. 8. Kilbúrún. 9. Dúghún. 10. Silistria,

which is the seat of the Páshá.

_Krim (the Crimea)._

This territory is governed by a Khán, who has the privilege of coining,

and of having the Khotba read in the mosques, his name being mentioned

immediately after that of the Osmánlí Emperor, who has the right of

appointing and changing the Kháns. The residence of the Khán is at

Baghcheseráï, and that of the Sultan at Ak-mesjid. The subordinate

officers are styled Shírín-begs and Másúr-begs; the former are selected

from the Nakhcheván family, and the latter from the Manik.

_The Province of Kaffa._

Its sanjaks are ruled by Voivodas, immediately appointed by the Osmánlí

Sultan and not by the Kháns. These sanjaks are: 1. Bálikláva. 2.

Kirej. 3. Támán. 4. Cherkess-shagha. 5. Balisira. 6. Azov. Besides the

Defterdár, there are no public officers.

_The Province of Cyprus._

There are here, a Defterdár of the treasury and of the feuds; a Kehiyá

and Emín of the Defter and Chávushes, an Aláï-beg, and a Cherí-báshí.

The sanjaks are: 1. Itshilí. 2. Társús. 3. Aláyí. 4. Sís or Khás. The

following have a Sáliáneh, or annual allowance from the treasury:

Kerina, Paphos, Tamagusta, and Nicosia. It is a large island, and

contains 30,000 Moslem warriors, and 150,000 infidels.

_The Province of Candia._

Canea was conquered in the reign of Sultán Ibrahím, by Yúsuf Páshá;

and twenty-six years afterwards Candia was taken by Kopreïlí Zádeh the

second, after a protracted siege of three years. The sanjaks are: 1.

Canea. 2. Retimo. 3. Selina. This island, being so extensive, has the

complement of public officers, and maintains a force of 40,000 men.

_The Province of Damascus._

Some of the sanjaks of this province are khás (_i.e._ yield a land

revenue); and others are Sáliáneh (_i.e._ have an annual allowance

from government). Of the former are: 1. Jerusalem. 2. Gaza. 3. Karak.

4. Safet. 5. Náblús. 6. Aajelún. 7. Lejún. 8. Bokoa. Of the latter:

Tadmor, Saida, and Bairút.

_The Province of Trabalús (Tripoli)._

Its sanjaks are: 1. Trabalús (Tripoli) the seat of the Páshá. 2. Hama.

3. Homs. 4. Salamieh. 5. Jebella. 6. Latakia. 7. Husnábád. It has also

forty Begs of the Drúzís in the mountains which belong to it.

_The Province of Adna._

Having been separated from the government of Haleb, it has no diván

officers. The sanjaks are: 1. Sís. 2. Tarsús. 3. Karatásh. 4.

Selfekeh. It has also seven Bóï-begs. Being a mountainous country it is

very turbulent.

_The Province of Haleb (Aleppo)._

Two of its sanjaks which receive a stipend, have no ziámet nor tímár.

The sanjaks are: 1. Akrád Kilís. 2. Bírejek. 3. Maura. 4. Azir. 5.

Bális. 6. Antakia (Antioch). Those which receive the allowance are

Massiaf, and the sanjak of the Turkomans, who are very numerous in this

province.

_The Province of Díúrbeker._

In this province there are nineteen sanjaks, and five hakúmets (or

hereditary governments). Eleven of the nineteen sanjaks are the same as

the others in the Ottoman provinces, but the remaining eight were, at

the time of the conquest, conferred on Kurdish Begs with the patent of

family inheritance for ever. Like other sanjaks, they are divided into

ziámets and tímárs, the possessors of which are obliged to serve in

the field; but if they do not, the ziámet or timár may be transferred

to a son or relation, but not to a stranger. The hakúmets have neither

ziámets nor timárs. Their governors exercise full authority, and

receive not only the land revenues, but also all the other taxes which

in the sanjaks are paid to the possessor of the ziámet or timár,

such as the taxes for pasturage, marriages, horses, vineyards, and

orchards. The Ottoman sanjaks are: 1. Kharpút. 2. Arghání. 3. Siverek.

4. Nissibin. 5. Husunkeïf. 6. Miafarakain. 7. Akchékala’. 8. Khapúr.

9. Sinjár. The Kurdish are: 1. Síghmán. 2. Kúláb. 3. Mehrásí. 4. Aták.

5. Bertek. 6. Chapakchúr. 7. Chermek. 8. Terjíl. The independent

governments: 1. Jezíreh. 2. Akíl. 3. Kenj. 4. Palwá. 5. Hezzú. These

are extensive provinces, and their governors have the title of Janáb

(excellency). The officers of the diván of Díárbeker are: the defterdár

of the treasury with a rúz-námjí (journal-writer); a defterdár of the

feudal forces, an inspector (Emín), and a lieutenant (Kehiyá) of the

defter, and another for the Chávushes; a secretary (Kátib), a colonel,

and a lieutenant-colonel of the militia.

_The Province of Kars._

Before the conquest this district belonged to Erzrúm, but it was

afterwards made a separate province, and had the sanjak of Yásín joined

to it. It has a colonel and lieutenant-colonel, but no officers of the

defter. Its sanjaks are: 1. Little Erdehán. 2. Hújuján. 3. Zárshád. 4.

Kechrán. 5. Kághizmán. 6. Kars, the seat of the Páshá.

_The Province of Jíldir or Akhíchkeh._

Of the civil officers of the diván there is here only a defterdár

of the treasury; and of the military, there is a colonel and a

lieutenant-colonel of the feudal militia. The sanjaks are: 1. Oultí. 2.

Harbús. 3. Ardinj. 4. Hajrek. 5. Great Ardehán. 6. Postkhú. 7. Mahjíl.

8. Ijareh-penbek. Besides these there are four hereditary sanjaks: 1.

Púrtekrek. 2. Lawaneh. 3. Nusuf Awán. 4. Shúshád. During the reign

of Sultán Mohammed Khán, the castle of Kotátis was captured by Kara

Mortezá, and was added to this province.

_The Province of Gúrjistán or Georgia._

The sanjaks are: 1. Achikbásh. 2. Shúshád. 3. Dádián. 4. Gúríl. The

Begs of Megrelistán (Mingrelia) are all infidels; but Murád IV. reduced

them, and having placed Sefer Pasha as their governor, made the castle

of Akhickha the seat of government. To this day they send the annual

presents.

_The Province of Tarabafzún (Trebisonde)._

1. Gomish-kháneh. 2. Jankha. 3. Wíza. 4. Gúnia. 5. Batúm. Though this

province is small it has a defterdár of the Tímárs, a Kehiyá of the

defter, an Aláï-beg, and a Cherí-báshí.

_The Province of Rika._

The sanjaks of Rika and Rohá are: 1. Jemása. 2. Khárpud. 3. Deïr-rahba.

4. Bení Rebia. 5. Sarúj. 6. Kharán. 7. Rika. 8. Rohá or Urfa, which is

the seat of the Páshá; it has no officers.

_The Province of Baghdád._

Seven of the eighteen sanjaks of this province are divided, as in other

parts of the empire, into ziámets and timárs. They are: 1. Hilla. 2.

Zeng-ábád. 3. Javazar. 4. Rúmáhía. 5. Jangula. 6. Kara-tágh. 7.——.

The other eleven sanjaks which are called Irák, have neither ziámets

nor tímárs. They are: 1. Terteng. 2. Samwat. 3. Bíát. 4. Derneh. 5.

Deh-balád. 6. Evset. 7. Kerneh-deh. 8. Demir-kapú. 9. Karanieh. 10.

Kilán. 11. Alsáh. These have no ziámets or tímárs, and are entirely in

the power of their possessors.

_The Province of Basra._

This was formerly a hereditary government (mulkiat), but was reduced to

an ordinary province (eyálet) when conquered by Sultán Mohammed IV. It

has a defterdár and Kehiyá of the Chávushes, but neither Aláï-beg nor

Cherí-báshí, because there are no ziámets or tímárs; the lands being

all rented by the governor.

_The Province of Lahsa._

This being a hereditary government, has neither ziámets nor tímárs,

but the governor sends a monthly present to the governor of Baghdád.

Formerly its governors were installed as Begler-begs, but they now hold

their authority without a patent.

_The Province of Yemen._

This too, since the time of Mohammed Khán IV., has been unlawfully

occupied by the Imáms.

_The Province of Abyssinia._

This province is also without ziámets or tímárs. Once in three years

an officer is sent from the Sublime Porte, to claim it as a government

province (Mulk). There are no private leases (iltizám).

_The Province of Mecca._

Mecca is divided between the Sheríf and the Páshá of Jidda. There are

no revenues but those derived from the aqueducts.

_The Province of Egypt._

Here there are neither ziámets nor tímárs. Its villages are registered

either as belonging to the crown (Mír Mál), or to pious foundations

(Wakf), or to the Káshif, or as rented by the inhabitants of towns

(Iltizám-beledí). There is a defterdár of the treasury, a journal

keeper (Rúznámehjí), seven clerks of the leases (Mokata’jí), a

comptroller (Mokábelejí) on the part of the Páshá, forty Begs and seven

commanders of the seven military bodies. The sanjaks held by Begs are

the following: 1. Upper Egypt. 2. Jirja. 3. Ibrim. 4. Alwáhát. (the

Oasis). 5. Manfelút. 6. Sharakieh (the eastern part of the Delta). 7.

Gharabieh (the western part). 8. Manúfieh. 9. Mansúrieh. 10. Kalúbieh.

11. Bakhair. 12. Damiat (Damietta). These are all governed by Begs. The

first in rank of the Begs of Egypt is the Emír-ul-haj, or chief of the

caravan to Mecca, who by the Arabs is called Sultán-al-barr, or lord

of the continent. His Kehiyá or deputy has the privilege of wearing an

aigrette.

As I have not travelled through the kingdoms of Algiers, Tunis, and

Tripoli, I do not give any account of them, but it is well known that

they are extensive territories.

_The Province of Mosul._

This has no officers of the Diván, but a colonel and a

lieutenant-colonel. Its sanjaks are: 1. Bájwánlí. 2. Tekrit. 3. Eskí

Mosul (Nineveh). 4. Harú.

_The Province of Wán._

The officers are, the defterdár of the treasury and of the tímárs,

the inspector and deputy of the rolls and Chávushes, a clerk of the

Chávushes, a colonel and lieutenant-colonel. Its sanjaks are: 1.

Adaljewáz. 2. Arjish. 3. Músh. 4. Bárgerí. 5. Kárkár. 6. Kesání. 7.

Zíríkí. 8. Asa’bard. 9. Aghákís. 10. Akrád. 11. Bení-kutúr. 12. Kala’

Báyazíd. 13. Burdú’. 15. Khalát. In the governments of Tiflis, Hakkárí,

Majmúdí, and Peniánish, there are ziámets and tímárs; the tribute

received from them is appropriated to the pay of the garrison of Wán.

All other fees and duties are received by the Kháns who hold these

governments in hereditary possession.

_The Province of Erzerúm._

This has twelve sanjaks; its officers are, a defterdár of the treasury,

an inspector and deputy of the rolls and Chávushes, and a clerk of

the Chávushes. The sanjaks are: 1. Kara-hisár. 2. Keïfí. 3. Pásín. 4.

Ispír. 5. Khanís. 6. Malázgír. 7. Tekmán. 8. Kuzúján. 9. Túrtúm. 10.

Lejengerd. 11. Mámar. 12. Erzerúm, the seat of the Páshá.

_The Province of Sheherzúl._

This province has the full number of diván officers. Its sanjaks are:

1. Sarújek. 2. Erbíl. 3. Kesnán. 4. Sheher-bázár. 5. Jengúleh. 6.

Jebel-hamrin. 7. Hazár-mardúd. 8. Alhúrán. 9. Merkáreh. 10. Hazír.

11. Rúdín. 12. Tíltárí. 13. Sebeh. 14. Zenjír. 15. Ajúb. 16. Abrúmán.

17. Pák. 18. Pertelí. 19. Bílkás. 20. Aúshní. 21. Kala’ Ghází. 22.

Sheherzúl, which is the seat of the Páshá. There are some tribes in

this province who are not governed by begs invested with a drum and

banner; more than one hundred chiefs of such tribes, who hold their

lands as ziámets, but by a hereditary right, accompany the Páshá, when

required, to the field of battle.

Section IV.

_Of the ranks of the Sanjak-begs._

According to the constitutional laws of Sultán Soleïmán, the

sanjak-begs rank according to their pay, except when there is a deposed

grand vezír amongst them, who in such case takes precedence over

them all. The pay of a sanjak-beg is at first 200,000 aspres, which

is increased in proportion to the period of his service, until he

becomes begler-beg, or mír mírán. Should, however, one of the aghás or

commanding generals of the military corps at Constantinople be made a

sanjak-beg, his pay from the first is more than 200,000 aspres. Thus,

the Aghá of the Janissaries, when he is appointed a sanjak-beg, at

once receives 500,000 aspres. The nishánjí-báshí (lord privy seal),

the mír alem (standard bearer of the empire), the chamberlain, and the

grand master of the horse, receive an increase of 100,000 aspres. The

cháshní-gír-báshí (comptroller of the kitchen), the mutafarrek-báshí

(chief of the couriers), the under-master of the horse, the Aghá of

sipáhís and silihdárs, of the ságh-ulúfejíán and sól-ghurebá (two

bodies of cavalry), all become sanjak-begs with a salary of 300,000

aspres. The segbán-báshí (a general of the Janissaries), the Kehiyá

(deputy) of the defter, the defterdárs of the tímárs and yáyá-begs,

and all whose ziámets amount to more than 500,000 aspres, receive an

addition of 100,000 aspres, as sanjak-begs. Such begs as distinguish

themselves by good conduct are rewarded with vacant tímárs; each

sanjak-beg furnishes for every 5,000 aspres of his revenues one armed

man. The smallest income of a sanjak-beg being 200,000 aspres, he

brings forty armed men into the field; if he has 500,000 aspres he

furnishes 500 men, and so on in proportion.

Section V.

_Of the Khás, or revenue of the Sanjak-begs, the Kehiyás of the Defter

and the Defterdárs of Tímárs._

_Rumeili._

Khás of the sanjak-begs of the Morea 5,776 aspres; Scutari, 59,200;

Avlonia, 39,000; Silistria, 89,660; Nicopolis, 40,000; Okhrí, 35,299;

Yanina, 20,260; Terhala, 50,885; Gústendíl 42,400; Elbesán, 1,963;

Chermen, 4,000; Víza, 34,465; Delvina, 7,132; Salonik, 80,832;

Skopí, 40,000; Dúkagín, 27,500; Widín, 3,000; Alájeh-hisár, 20,399;

Weljeterín, 50,000; Perzerín, 28,146; Ziámet of the kehiyá of the

defter, 1,426; of the defterdárs, 2,000; of the beg of the Yúrúks

(wandering tribes) of Víza, 2,000; of the yúrúk-beg of Rodosto, 60,000;

of the yurúk-beg of Yánbolí, 3,470; of the yúrúk-beg of Okchebóli,

3,494; of the yúrúk-beg of Koja, 4,000; of the yúrúk-beg of Salonik,

41,397; of the yúrúk-beg of Naldúkín, 3,500; of the capudán of Cavala,

4,314; of the beg of the Voinoks, 5,052.

_Bosnia._

Khás of the beg of Kilís, 42,500; Hersek, 10,515; Zvorník, 35,793;

Poshega, 66,230; Zachina, 70,000; Karak, 30,000; Rahovicha, 70,000.

Ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 46,000; of the defterdár, 5,530.

_The Archipelago._

Khás of the Beg of Negropont, 40,000; Karlíeïlí (Acarnania), 3,000;

Einabakht (Lepanto), 30,000; Rodós (Rhodes), 77,004; Mytylini, 40,000;

Kojaeïlí, 6,526; Bígha, 13,088; Sighla, 30,000; Misistra, 19,000.

Ziámet of the kehiyá, 8,390; of the defterdár, 22,077.

_The Province of Bude._

Khás of Semendria, 40,260; Becheví (Fünf-kirchen or Fife-churches),

40,000; Oustúnbelgrade (Stuhl-weissenburg), 26,000; Osterghún (Gran),

10,000; Segdín, 40,000; Sirem, 25,675; Essek, 20,000; Shamtorna,

40,000; Kopán and Filek, 20,000; Nigisár, 34,000; Novigrád, 33,940;

Sonlí, 40,000; Míhaj, 92,000; Siget, 4,230; Segsár, 34,000; Míján,

40,260.

Khás of the Defterdár, 5,520; ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter,

3,240; of the kehiyá of the tímárs, 8,940.

_The Province of Temisvár._

Lippova, 10,000; Kiánád, 20,792; Gúla, 28,945; Madava, 60,080; Yánova,

2,420; Ishbesh, 1,945; Ziámet of the defterdár of the treasury, 60,000;

of the Kehiyá, 4,880; of the defterdár of the tímárs, 60,000.

_The Province of Anatolia._

Khás of the beg of Sárukhán, 40,000; Aïdín, 34,600; Kara Hisár Afíún,

40,299; Angora, 64,300; Brúsa, 18,089; Bolí, 20,122; Kastamúní, 50,000;

Muntesha, 40,800; Tekkeh, 28,000; Hamíd, 24,000; Jánkrí, 48,081;

Karasí, 3,000; Sultánógí, 5,000.

Ziámet of the kehiyá, 10,912; of the defterdár, 4,596.

_The Province of Karamán._

Khás of the beg of Kaisarieh (Cæsarea), 5,000; Begshehrí, 90,000;

Akseráí, 35,000; Aksheher, 1,000; Kírsheher, 7,540.

Khás of the defterdár, 5,000; of the kehiyá, 5,000.

_The Province of Kubrus (Cyprus)._

Khás of Icheïlí, 27,000; Aláíeh, 50,000; Tarsús, 45,260; Sís, 60,299.

Khás of the defterdár of the treasury, 20,000; of the defterdár of the

ziámets, 70,000; of the kehiyá, 42,000.

_The Province of Tripoli (in Syria)._

Khás of Homs, 20,290; Jebellieh, 34,180; Salamieh, 9,000; Hamá, 94,030.

Khás of the defterdár of the treasury, 13,000; of the kehiyá, 64,800;

of the defterdár of the timárs, 40,000.

_The Province of Haleb (Aleppo)._

Khás of the beg of Adna, 95,000; Kilís, 2,827; Bírejek, 5,220; Makra,

30,000; Azíz, 20,000; Balís, 20,000.

Khás of the defterdár of the treasury, 27,826; of the kehiyá, 6,930; of

the defterdár of the tímárs, 1,146.

_The Province of Zulkadrieh or Mera’ish._

Malatieh, 50,000; Eintáb, 5,130; Mera’ish, 25,300.

_The Province of Sivás._

Khás of the beg of Amasia, 30,000; Chorum, 30,000; Búzouk, 300,275;

Dívergí, 50,360; Jáník, 7,024; Arabgír, 21,000.

Ziámet of the kehiyá, 80,200; of the defterdár, 2,550.

_The Province of Erzerúm._

Khás of the beg of Karahisár Sharakí, 3,000; Keïfí, 3,000; Básín,

94,000; Ispír, 30,000; Khanís, 80,440; Malázgír, 50,000; Turkmán,

4,929; Okúzján, 20,702; Túrtúm, 97,000; Lejengird, 40,000; Mámerván,

3,000.

Khás of the defterdár of the treasury, 42,900; of the defterdár of the

tímárs, 20,200.

_The Province of Kars._

Khás of Erdehán Kúchuk, 9,030; Hújú-ján, 2,500; Rúshád, 40,000;

Kázmaghán, 2,000; Kecherán, 2,000.

_The Province of Childer or Akhichka._

Khás of Oultí, 2,017; Pertek, 2,190; Erdenúh, 70,000; Erdehán Buzúrg,

2,000; Shúshád, 56,000; Livána (two hereditary sanjaks), 65,000;

Kharbús, 2,500; Sahrek, 65,000; Pústúkh, 6,500; Mánjíl, 3,229; Penbek,

40,000.

_The Province of Trebisonde._

Ziámet of the kehiyá of Bátúm, 3,000 apres; ziámet of the defterdár of

the tímárs, 42,290.

_The Province of Díárbeker._

Khás of Kharpút, 9,999; Arghaní, 20,515; Súrek, 3,043; Aták, 47,200;

Nesíbín, 30,000; Terjíl, 45,200; Jermík, 3,140; Husn-keïf, 2,955; Akíl,

9,675; Chapík-júd, 7,000; Jemishgezek, 4,223; Samsád, 9,057; Sha’ir,

3772; Akchakala’, 20,000; Sinjár, 1,517; Mufarakín, 20,000; Lisán and

Búzbán, 6,000; Khákenj, 7,834.

Khás of the defterdár, 40,395; ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter,

10,924; khás of the defterdár of the timárs, 8,000.

_The Province of Rakka._

Khás of Jemáseh, 5,122; Dair Rahba, 8,000; Kápúr, 10,000; Así Rabia’,

40,000; Sarúj, 20,000; Ana, 82,215.

_The Province of Baghdád._

Khás of Zangábád, 70,000; Helleh, 51,000; Javázer, 20,000; Rúmnáhieh,

45,000; Jengúleh, 20,000; Kara (an hereditary government), 4,287;

Derteng, 20,000; Samvát, 55,000; Derneh, 6,931; Dehbálá, 60,000; Váset,

20,000; Kerend, 29,260; Tapúr, 20,000; Karanieh, 20,000; Kílán, 20,000;

Al Ságh, 200,000; Ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 10,000; of the

defterdár of the tímárs, 80,000.

_The Province of Wán._

Khás of Adeljaván, 50,346; Arjís, 30,000; Músh, 1,000; Bárgerí, 20,000;

Kárkár, 20,000; Keshán, 25,000; Ispághird, 20,000; Aghákís, 50,000;

Akrád, 90,000; Wádí Bení Kutúr, 70,000; Kala’ Báyazíd, 1,044; Bardú’,

20,000; Wáwjik, 95,000.

Ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 60,999; of the defterdár of the

timárs, 3,870.

_The Province of Mosul._

Khás of Bájuvánlí, 15,000; Tekrít, 7,284; Harún, 20,000; Bána, 30,000.

Section VI.

_Statement of the number of swords or men brought into the field by the

Possessors of Tímárs and Ziámets._

_The Province of Rumeili._

The number of its swords or armed men is 9,274, of which 914 are

ziámets, the rest tímárs, with and without tezkerehs (commissions).

The Zái’ms, or possessors of the ziámets, for every 5,000 aspres of

their revenues provide one armed man. Tímárís, or possessors of the

tímárs, of from 10,000 to 20,000, find three men. Thus the militia of

Rúmeïlí consists of Zái’ms, Tímárs, and Jebellís, or guards, amounting

in all to 20,200 men. The sanjak-beg, the kehiyá of the defter, and

the defterdár of the timárs, for every 5,000 aspres of their revenues

provide one man: the number of men found by these being 2,500, the

troops of Rúmeïlí amount to 33,000 men; and, including the servants, to

40,000 men.

Section VII

_Number of Ziámets and Tímárs in each of the Sanjaks in Rúmeïlí._

Sofia, the seat of the Páshá, has 7,821 ziámets and tímárs; Kustandíl

48 ziámets, 1,018 tímárs; Terkhaleh 32 ziámets, 539 tímárs; Yánina 62

ziámets, 34 tímárs; Uskúb 57 ziámets, 340 tímárs; Ohrí 20 ziámets, 529

tímárs; Avlonia 38 ziámets, 489 tímárs; Morea 200 ziámets; Eskenderieh

75 ziámets, 422 tímárs; Nicopolis 20 ziámets, 244 tímárs; Chermen 20

ziámets, 130 tímárs; Elbesán 18 ziámets, 138 tímárs; Víza 30 ziámets,

79 tímárs; Delvina 34 ziámets, 1,155 tímárs; Saláník (Salonica) 36

ziámets, 762 tímárs; Kirk-kilisá 18 tímárs; Dúkagín 10 ziámets, 52

tímárs; Widín 12 ziámets, 25 tímárs; Alaja-hisár 27 ziámets, 509

tímárs; Wejterín, 10 ziámets, 17 tímárs; Perzerín 17 ziámets, 225

tímárs; Akchebólí, an Oják of the Yúrúks or wandering tribes, 188; of

the Yúrúks of Teker Tághí or Rodosto 324; of the Yúrúks of Saláník

128; of Koják 400; of Na’ldúkín 314; of the Musselmans of Rúmeïlí

400; of the Musselmans of Kuziljeh 300; of the Musselmans of Chermen

301; of Chinganeh (Gypsies or Bohemians) 198; of Víza 178;—in all

1,019 hereditary ojáks or families. In the government registers thirty

persons of these Yúrúks or Musselmans are called an _oják_, or family.

In the time of war these Yúrúks and Musselmans constitute the flying

troops (ishkenjí), and in their turn twenty-five of these perform the

duties of yamáks, or servants, to the other five. During war the Yamáks

are obliged to pay 55 aspres per head in lieu of all diván duties,

but in time of peace they are exempt from all taxes. The ishkenjí or

flying-troops (voltigeurs) pay no farm-taxes when they go to war; but

should they become sipáhís or feudatory tenants, they are not exempt

from the duties of Yúrúks. To the Musselmans a portion of land is

allotted, which is registered as a tímár, and of which they pay no

tithes. Their duties are to drag the artillery in the time of war, to

clear the roads, and to carry the necessary provisions for the army.

Section VIII.

_Number of Ziámets and Timárs in Anatolia._

There are 7,313 swords, of which 195 are ziámets and the other tímárs;

they provide 9,700 jebellí or armed men, and others, amounting in all

to 17,000 men. Their annual revenue amounts to 37,317,730 aspres. The

ziámets and tímárs are as follows: Kútáhieh 79 ziámets, 939 tímárs;

Sarúkhán 41 ziámets, 674 tímárs; Aídín 19 ziámets, 572 tímárs;

Karahisár, 15 ziámets, 616 tímárs; Angora 10 ziámets, 257 tímárs; Brúsa

30 ziámets, 1,005 tímárs; Bolí 14 ziámets, 551 tímárs; Kostamúní 24

ziámets, 587 tímárs; Munteshá 52 ziámets, 381 tímárs; Tekkeh 7 ziámets,

392 tímárs; Hamíd 9 ziámets, 585 tímárs; Karasí 7 ziámets 381 tímárs;

Sultán-ogí 7 ziámets, 182 tímárs. In Anatolia there are also Musselmans

(freemen) and Píádeh or Yáyá (pioneers), who to the number of 900 men

go to war; these with the Yamáks amount to 26,500 men; their duties

are to drag the guns, clear the roads, and carry provisions. They have

lands (chiftlik) like the Yúrúks of Rúmeïlí, which are registered as

tímárs. This was the establishment in the reign of Sultán Soleïmán, but

at present they are all enrolled as rayás, and the possessors of these

tímárs are obliged to accompany the Kapúdán Páshá when he goes to sea.

Formerly there were in this province 1,280 volunteering Arabs, who, for

every ten men providing one armed-man, sent 128 men into the field.

They are now disbanded.

_The Province of the Kapúdán Páshá, or the islands of the Archipelago._

This formerly provided 1,618 swords; but Ja’fer Páshá, who was formerly

Bóstánjí Báshí, during the reign of Murád IV. increased their number

to 9,900: of these 106 were ziámets and the rest were tímárs; adding

to them the jebellís the entire number was 12,067 men. The Arabs, the

volunteers of the Arsenal, and the men of sixty galleys, also formed

a body of 10,000 men. The annual revenue of their ziámets and tímárs

amounted to 1,800,000 aspres. The following are the ziámets and tímárs:

Negropont 12 ziámets, 188 tímárs; Einabakht (Lepanto) 13 ziámets, 287

tímárs; Mytylini 83 tímárs; Kojaeïlí 25 ziámets, 187 tímárs; Sighla

32 ziámets, 225 tímárs; Kárlieïlí 11 ziámets, 19 tímárs; Gallipolí 14

ziámets, 132 tímárs; Ródós (Rhodes) 5 ziámets, 785 tímárs; Bíghá 6

ziámets, 136 tímárs; Misistra 10 ziámets, 91 tímárs.

_The Province of Karamán._

This province supplies 1,620 men, 110 of which are ziámets, the rest

tímárs; with the jebellís they amount to 4,600 men. Their annual

revenue is 1,500,000 aspres. Konia has 13 ziámets, 515 sanjaks;

Kaisaria (Cæsarea) 12 ziámets, 200 tímárs; Níkdeh 13 ziámets, 255

tímárs; Begshehrí 12 ziámets, 244 tímárs; Akshehrí 9 ziámets, 22

tímárs; Kirkshehrí 4 ziámets, 13 tímárs; Akseráï 12 ziámets, 228 tímárs.

_The Province of Rúm or Sivás._

This has 3,130 swords or men, of which 109 are ziámets, the rest

tímárs. The begs, záims, and tímariots with their jebellís amount to

9,000 men. Their annual revenue amounts to 3,087,327 aspres. Sivás has

48 ziámets, 928 tímárs.

_The Province of Mara’ish._

2,169 swords, of which 29 are ziámets, and the rest tímárs. The begs,

záims, tímariots, and jebellís amount to 55,000 men. Their annual

revenue amounts to 9,423,017 aspres. Mara’ish has 3 ziámets, 1,120

tímárs; Kars 2 ziámets, 656 tímárs; Eintáb 2 ziámets, 656 tímárs;

Malatea 8 ziámets, 276 tímárs.

_The Province of Haleb (Aleppo)._

933 swords, of which 104 are ziámets, the rest tímárs; the whole number

of troops with the jebellís is 2,500 men. Haleb 18 ziámets, 1,295

tímárs; Adna 11 ziámets, 190 tímárs; Kilís 17 ziámets, 295 tímárs;

Ma’kra 9 ziámets, 890 tímárs; Azíz 2 ziámets, 190 tímárs; Balís 6

ziámets, 57 tímárs.

_The Province of Shám (Damascus)._

996 swords, of which 28 are ziámets and the rest tímárs; it has with

the jebellís 1,600 men. Kuds-Sheríf (Jerusalem) 9 ziámets, 16 tímárs;

Aajelún 4 ziámets, 21 tímárs; Lajún 9 ziámets, 26 tímárs; Safed 5

ziámets, 133 tímárs; Gaza 7 ziámets, 108 tímárs; Náblús 7 ziámets, 124

tímárs.

_The Province of Cyprus._

1,667 swords, of which 40 are ziámets, and the rest tímárs. The begs,

záims, tímariots and jebellís amount to 4,500 men. Cyprus 9 ziámets, 38

tímárs; Aláíeh 9 ziámets, 152 tímárs; Tarsús 13 ziámets, 418 tímárs;

Sís 2 ziámets, 52 tímárs; Ich-eïlí 16 ziámets, 602 tímárs.

_The Province of Tripoli (in Syria)._

614 swords, with the jebellís, 1,400 men. Tripoli 12 ziámets, 875

tímárs; Homs 9 ziámets, 91 tímárs; Jebellieh 9 ziámets, 91 tímárs;

Salamieh 54 ziámets, 52 tímárs; Hama 27 ziámets, 171 tímárs.

_The Province of Rakka._

654 swords, with their jebellís, 1,400 men. Rakka 3 ziámets, 132

tímárs; Roha 9 ziámets, 291 tímárs; Birehjík 15 ziámets, 109 tímárs;

A’na 6 ziámets, 129 tímárs.

_The Province of Trebizonde._

454 swords, with their jebellís, 8,150 men. Trebizonde 43 ziámets, 226

tímárs; Batúm 5 ziámets, 72 tímárs.

_The Province of Díárbekr._

730 swords, with their jebellís, 1,800 men. In the reign of Sultán

Murád IV. this province provided 9,000 men. Amed has 9 ziámets, 1,129

tímárs; Kharpút 7 ziámets, 123 tímárs; Argháneh 9 ziámets, 123 tímárs;

Sívrek 4 ziámets, 123 tímárs; Nesíben, 15 ziámets and tímárs; Berehjík

4 ziámets, 123 tímárs; Chermik 6 ziámets, 13 tímárs; Husnkeïf 45

ziámets and tímárs; Chabákchúr 5 ziámets, 30 tímárs; Jemeshgezek 2

ziámets, 7 tímárs; Sinjár 6 ziámets, 21 tímárs.

_The Province of Erzerúm._

5,279 swords, with the jebellís 8,000 men. Erzerúm 5 ziámets, 2,215

tímárs; Túrtúm 5 ziámets, 49 tímárs; Bámerwán 4 ziámets, 92 tímárs;

Keïfí 8 ziámets, 229 tímárs; Malázgír 9 ziámets, 281 tímárs; Khanís 2

ziámets, 425 tímárs; Tekmán 1 ziámet, 253 tímárs; Kara-hisár 4 ziámets,

94 tímárs.

_The Province of Childer._

650 swords, with the jebellís, 8,000 men. Oultí 3 ziámets, 132 tímárs;

Erdehán 8 ziámets, 45 tímárs; Ezerbúj 4 ziámets, 49 tímárs; Hajrek 2

ziámets, 12 tímárs; Kharnús 13 ziámets, 35 tímárs; Pústú 1 ziámet, 18

tímárs; Benek 8 ziámets, 54 tímárs; Básín 9 ziámets, 14 tímárs; Alúrí

9 ziámets, 10 tímárs; Oustjeh 8 ziámets, 17 tímárs; Cháklik 33 tímárs;

Jetla 13 ziámets, 14 tímárs; Ispír 1 ziámet, 4 tímárs; Petek 3 ziámets,

98 tímárs.

_The Province of Wán._

Regulars and jebellís 1,300 men. Wán has 48 ziámets, 45 tímárs;

Shevergír 47 ziámets, 33 tímárs; Júbánlú 2 ziámets, 26 tímárs; Wedáleh

7 ziámets, 21 tímárs; Kala’ Báyazíd 4 ziámets, 125 tímárs; Arjísh

14 ziámets, 86 tímárs; Aduljeváz 9 ziámets, 101 tímárs; Kúrládek 7

ziámets, 67 tímárs.

In the reign of Sultán Soleïmán the feudal force of Rúmeïlí amounted

to 91,600 men. On so firm a foundation had he established the Ottoman

empire, that when he made war in Europe he required not the troops

of Asia; and when he took the field in Asia, he had no occasion for

the forces of Europe. His victorious wars in Germany and Persia, were

carried on solely with his regular troops. His whole army having

been numbered amounted to 500,000 men. Of these there were 40,000

janissaries and 20,000 cavalry or sipáhís, who with their servants

amounted to 40,000 men. After the conquest of Yánova, Mohammed IV.

increased the army by 3,000 men, and after the conquest of Uivár by

8,000 men. Keríd (Candia) also, having been conquered and divided into

ziámets and timárs, gave 100,000 rayás and 20,000 troops.

In the year 1060 (A.D. 1649) during the reign of Sultán Mohammed IV.

my noble lord Melek Ahmed Páshá being grand vezír, a royal firmán was

issued to review the whole of the Ottoman army. Every soul receiving

pay in the seven climates was registered, and the result was 566,000

serving men, the annual pay of whom amounted to 43,700 purses, and with

the pay of the troops in Egypt to 90,040 purses (45,020,000 piastres):

thus the army far exceeded that of Soleïmán’s time.

Section X.

_The order of the Diván._

Before the time of Sultán Soleïmán there was no regular diván. He

held a grand diván on four days during the week, composed of the

seven vezírs of the cupola, the two judges of the army, the Aghá of

the Janissaries and of the six bodies of cavalry. The Chávush-báshí

(marshal of the court); and the Kapíjílár Kehiyásí (chief chamberlain)

were required to attend on such days with their silver staffs of

office. The grand vezír gave judgment on all law-suits; and the Kapúdán

Páshá, seated without the cupola, decided all matters relating to the

navy. On Wednesdays the chief of the eunuchs decided causes relating to

Mecca and Medina. It was Sultán Soleïmán who established the regular

dress of the diván. The vezírs and the Kapúdán Páshá wore the turban

called the _selímí_, and so did the Aghá of the Janissaries provided

he were a vezír. The Chávúsh-báshí (marshal), the Kapíjílár Ketkhodásí

(the chief chamberlain), the Mir-alem (the standard-bearer of the

state), the Chakirjí-báshí (superintendent of the household), the Mír

Akhor (master of the horse), the Cháshnígír-báshí (comptroller of the

kitchen), and the Mutaferrika-báshí (chief of the couriers) wore the

_mujavera_, or high round turban, and Khaláts of atlas or satin called

_oust_. The generals of the Janissaries and Sipáhís, the Chávushes of

the diván, and the seventy heads of the offices of the treasury, all

stood in their places dressed in their _mujavera_ and _oust_ ready to

transact business. On these days the Janissaries were served by the

Aghá with 3,000 dishes of wheat broth, which if they would not touch,

the emperor at once knew that they were dissatisfied. On such occasions

he repaired to the Adálet Koshkí (kiosk of equity), where he in person

decided some of their most important questions. In the evening they all

sat down to a sumptuous repast, which was served by the Zulflí-báltají

to the vezírs, and by the tent-pitchers to the rest of the company.

After the repast the seven vezírs, the Kapúdán Páshá and the Aghá of

the Janissaries with the two great judges were introduced by the gate

of the Harem, to the presence of the emperor. They then returned to

the diván, where the Chávush-báshí taking the seal of the grand vezír,

sealed the treasure, and then returned it to the vezír.

_The conquests and victories of Soleïmán._

His first conquest was the defeat of the Circassian governor of Syria,

Ján Yazdí Ghazálí Khán, whose rebellious head Ferhád Páshá severed

from its body, and sent to the Sublime Porte in 927 (A.D. 1520). The

conquest of Yemen and death of Iskender the rebel 927 (1520). The

reduction of Belgrade and Tekúrlen, of Slankement and Kópanik in

the same year. The conquest of Rodos (Rhodes) in 928 (1521); of the

fortresses of Iskaradín, Helka, Eiligí, the island of Injírlí, the

fortress of Takhtalú, Istankoi (Cos), Bodrúm (Halicarnassus), in the

same year. The victory of Mohacz, followed by the fall of Waradin,

Oïlúk, Koprik, Eïlúk, Dimúrjeh, Irek, Gargofja, Lúkán, Sútan, Lakwár,

Wárdúd, Rácheh, Essek, Bude and Pest, in the year 932 (1525). The siege

of Kizil Alma (the Red Apple or the capital of Germany), and in the

following year the release of Yánush (John Zapolia) by Yehiyá Páshá

Zádeh. The conquest of Sokolofja, Kapúlieh, Shíla, Balwár, Lotofjí,

Túsh, Zákán, Kaniza, Kaporník, Balashka Chopanija, Shárwár, Nimetogur,

Kemendwár, Egersek, Moshter, and Moshtí in 939 (1532). Conquest of the

eastern provinces of Irák, Kazwín, Karákán, Baghdád, Eriván, Sultánieh,

Tabríz, and Hamadán, in 941 (1534). Wán, Adeljúváz, Arjísh, Akhlát,

Bárgerí, Amik, Khúsháb, Sultán, Sabádán, Jerem-bidkár, Rúsíní, Hella,

and Tenúr, in 941 (1534), Tabríz in the same year. An expedition into

Georgia and Appulia; with the conquest of Kilís in Bosnia, in the year

943 (1536). The conquest of Uivárin, Nadín, Sín, Kádín, Oporja, and

the expedition against Korfuz (Corfu) in the same year. The conquest

of Poshega, and the defeat of Sorkújí John near Essek in 944 (1537).

The expedition into Moldavia, the conquest of Yássí, Bassra, and

Bosnia, in 945 (1538). The relief of Nureh in Hersek, the conquest of

Yemen and Aden, the naval expedition against India and Díú; and the

conquest of Abyssinia in the same year, by the Eunuch Soleïmán Páshá.

Bude twice before besieged was now reduced, and Gházi Soleïmán Páshá

made governor, and Khair-ad-dín Efendí first judge. The conquest of

Stuhlweissenburg, Lippova, Grán, Tátá, Pápá, Vesperim, Poláta, and

Chargha in 950 (1543).

The death of the prince Mohammed happened in the same year. The capture

of Vishegráde near Grán, Khutwán, Shamtorna, Walifa in Bosnia, and of

the castle of Cerigo in 951 (1544). In 954 (1547) Alkás Mirzá, the

governor of Shírván and brother of Sháh Thamás took refuge at the

court of Soleïmán; and in the following year the towns of Kóm, Káshán

and Ispahán, were sacked by the emperors expedition. The conquest of

Pechevi (Five Churches) Pechkerek, Arát, Jenád (Cianad) Temesvár;

the battle of Khádem Alí Páshá in the plains of Segedin. Temesvár

was conquered in 959 (1551) by the second vezír, Ahmed Páshá; the

conquest of Solnuk; and the siege of Erla raised in the same year. The

expedition against Nakhcheván; the death of the prince Jehángír whilst

in winter quarters at Haleb (Aleppo) in 960 (1552). The conquest of

Sheherzúl and Zálim, with the castles belonging to it. The conquest of

Kapúshwár, Farúbeneh, and the Crimea. The victory of Malkúch Beg at

Kilís in Bosnia in 961 (1553). The contest between the princes Selím

and Báyazíd in the plains of Kóníya, in which Báyazíd was defeated and

took refuge with the Sháh of Persia, who gave him up, after which he

was put to death with his children at Sivás, 966 (1558). Expedition

against Siget, during the siege of which Pertev Páshá conquered, on

the Transylvanian side, the castles of Gúla, Yanova, and Dilághosh. Ten

days previous to these victories the Emperor Soleïmán bade farewell to

his transitory kingdom and removed to his never fading dominions. This

event happened during the siege of Siget, but the vezír Asif concealed

his illness and death so well for seventy days that even the pages

of the Khás óda were ignorant of it. On this account it is said that

Soleïmán conquered the towns of Siget, Gúla, and Kómár after his death.

Thus died Soleïmán after a reign of forty-eight years, having attained

the highest glory. His conquests extended over all the seven climates;

and he had the Khotba read for him in 2,060 different mosques. His

first victory was in Syria over the Circassian Khán Yezdí Ghazálí, and

his last that at Siget: he died seven days before the reduction of this

fortress. His death, which happened at nine o’clock on Wednesday the

22d of Sefer, was kept concealed till the arrival of his son Selím from

Magnesia. His body was carried to Constantinople and buried before the

Mihráb of the mosque which bears his name.

_The Reign of Sultán Selím II._

Sultán Selím the son of Sultán Soleïmán Khán was born in 931, and

ascended the throne in 974 (1566). He was an amiable monarch, took much

delight in the conversation of poets and learned men, and indulged in

pleasure and gaiety. His vezírs were,—the grand vezírs Sokollí Mohammed

Páshá, Ahmed Páshá (the conqueror of Temisvár), Piáleh Páshá, (the

Kapúdán Páshá), Zál Mahmúd Páshá, Láleh Mustafá Páshá, and Tútúnsez

Husain Páshá. These were vezírs endowed with the wisdom of Aristotle.

The Mír-mírán, or Begler-begs, who adorned his reign were,—Kapúdán Alí

Páshá, Súfi Alí Páshá, Yetúr Husain Páshá, Mahmúd Páshá, Mohammed Páshá

the son of Láleh Mustafa Páshá, Abd-ur-rahmán Páshá, Dávud Páshá, Rús

Hasan Páshá, Murád Pashá, Khádem Ja’fer Páshá, Dervísh Alí Páshá, Arab

Ahmed Páshá.

_Defterdárs and Nishánjís._

Murád Chelebí, Dervísh Chelebí the son of Bábá the painter, Lálá-zádeh,

Mohammed Chelebí, Memí Chelebí, Abd-ul-ghafúr Chelebí, Moharrem

Chelebi: Fírúz-beg the Nishánjí (lord privy seal), Mohammed Chelebí,

nephew of the late Nishánjí Jelál-zádeh Beg.

The most distinguished of the Ulemá in his reign were,—Yehíá

Efendí from Beshiktásh; Mevlena Mohammed Ben Abd-ul-waháb; Mevlena

Musalih-ud-din; Mevlena Ja’fer Efendí; Mevlená Ata-allah Efendí;

Mevlena Mohammed Chelebí; Ahmed Chelebí; Abd-ul-kerím Ben Mohammed, the

son of the Shaikh-ul-Islám (grand muftí) Abú-sa’úd.

_Physicians._

Mevlená Hakím Sinán, Hakím Othmán Efendí, Mevlená Hakím Isá, Hakím

Is’hák, Hakím Bder-ud-dín Mohammed Ben Mohammed Kásúní, Tabíb Ahmed

Chelebí.

_Mesháiekh or Learned Men._

The Sheïkh Ala-ud-dín (may God sanctify his secret state!) was of

Akseráï in Karamánia, and celebrated for his proficiency in the Ilm

Jefer, or cabalistic art, Sheikh Abd ul Kerím, Sheikh Arif billah

Mahmúd Chelebí, Sheikh Abú Sa’íd, Sheikh Hakím Chelebí, Sheikh Ya’kúb

Kermání, Serkhosh Bálí Efendí, Sheikh Ramazán Efendí, surnamed

Beheshtí, and Sheikh Mohammed Bergeví, who died in 981 (1573).

_Conquests &c. in the reign of Sultán Selím II._

The tribe of Alián of Basra having rebelled was subjugated in 975

(1567). The expedition to Azhderhán (Astrachan) in 977 (1569). The

conquest of Dasht Kipchák in 976 (1568). The conquest of Yemen and

Aden, a second time, by Sinán in 977. Arrival of the Moors banished

from Spain 978 (1570). Conquest of Cyprus with all its fortresses by

Lálá Kara Mustafa Páshá, in the same year. Of Tunis and the African

coast, by Kilij Alí Páshá in 977 (1569). Defeat of the grand imperial

fleet at Lepanto in 979 (1571). Flight of Tátár Khán to Moscow.

Renovation of Mekka in the same year. The recovery of Bosnia from the

infidels in 982 (1574).

Sultán Selím died on the 18th of Sha’bán 982. He left many monuments

of his grandeur, but none of them can be compared to the mosque which

he erected at Adrianople: in truth there is not one equal to it even

in Islámbol. He was succeeded by his own son Sultán Murád III., who

ascended the throne in 982 (1574). His sons were the princes,—Mustafa,

Osmán, Báyazíd, Selím, Jehángír, Abdullah, Abd-ur-rahmán, Hasan,

Ahmed, Ya’kúb, A’lem-sháh, Yúsuf, Husain, Korkúd, Alí, Is’hak, Omar,

Ala-ad-dín Dávud Khán. He had also twenty-four fair daughters, in all

one hundred and twenty-seven children, who were killed after his death

and buried beside him at Ayá Sofiá. May God have mercy upon them all!

Sultán Murád built the Koshk called Sinán Páshá’s Koshk in 992 (1584).

_Conquests &c. in the Reign of Murád._

Lálá Kara Mustafa Páshá’s grand battle on the plain of Childer, 983

(1575), followed by the fall of the fortresses of Childer, Tomek,

Khartín, Dákhil, Tiflís, Shebkí, Demir Kapú or Derbend, and the

reduction of the province of Shirván, which was given to Ozdemir Zádeh

Osmán Páshá. All these conquests were achieved in 991 (1583). The

first royal expedition was in 990. The defeat of Imám Kúlí Khán in 991.

In the same year the government of Magnesia was given to the Prince

Mahmúd Khán, and in the following year Mohammed Gheráï, Khán of the

Crimea, was deposed and put to death. In 992 the castle of Tabríz was

rebuilt, the fortress of Ganja was taken, and the expedition against

Baghdád under Jegháleh Zádeh. The conquest of Despúl, Nahávund, and

Guhardán, in 995 (1586). The grand battle of Khádem Ja’fer Páshá, in

the neighbourhood of Tabríz, 997 (1586). A peace concluded with the

Sháh (of Persia), who sent one of his sons as a hostage, 1000 (1591).

Capture of Bihka, and a new fortress built upon the Save in the same

year; also the defeat of the grand army in Bosnia, and the conquest

of Besperin and Polata. Defeat of the Mussulmán army near Istúlíní

(Stuhlweissenburg). Conquest of Tátá and Set-Martín (Saint Martin).

Commencement of the siege of Raab (which was reduced some time after by

Sinán Páshá), in 1003 (1594), when Sultán Mohammed Khán III. ascended

the throne (being on a Friday the 16th of Jemází ul evvel). In 1002

Sultán Murád Khán, resigned the reins of government and joined the

divine clemency. May God have mercy upon him!

Sultán Mohammed Khán son of Sultán Murád Khán was born at Magnesia in

976. The principal events and conquests of his reign are the following:

In 1004 (1595) the Tátár Khán arrived in Walachia and subdued the

rayás. In the same year Ja’fer Páshá delivered Temisvár from the

infidels. In the following year Egra (Erla) was taken, and the army

of the infidels routed in the plain of Shatúsh near Erla. In 1006 the

infidels recover Yánuk (Raab). Wárad besieged by Satúrjí Hasan Páshá in

1007 (1698). Yemishjí Páshá was deposed and killed, and Jegháleh Zádeh

died after having been defeated by the Persians in 1011 (1602). In the

following year the Persians took possession of Ganja and Shirwán; and

Mohammed died on the 18th of Rajab. He built a mausoleum for himself

in Islámból, and left numerous monuments in other towns of the empire,

particularly at Mecca and Medina. The sending of two ship-loads of corn

from Egypt to Mecca and Medina annually originated with him.

Sultán Ahmed Khán I., was born at Magnesia in 998 (1589). He was a fair

child of four years, when he ascended the throne on the 18th of Rajab

1012 (1603). I, the humble writer of these pages, Evliya the son of

Dervísh Mohammed, was born in the reign of this Sultán on the 10th of

Moharrem 1020 (1611). Six years after my birth, the building of the

new mosque (of Ahmed) was commenced, and in the same year the Sultán

undertook the expedition to Adrianople: God be praised that I came

into the world during the reign of so illustrious a monarch.