Almost in the very gates of the Notch, near its upper entrance. Either
in going or returning, this will be found a desirable stopping place, as
there are many points of interest in this vicinity. The hotel itself is
spacious and elegant, accommodating 500 guests. In the days of
mountain-climbing by “brute force,” it was the starting point of the
bridle path to the summit of Mount Washington; but the hardy mountain
ponies, trusty and sure-footed, have given way to the “iron horse,” no
less trusty, but vastly less romantic.
Saco Lake, near the house, is the source of Saco River, here a
diminutive stream, but increasing in volume on its way to the sea, as it
absorbs the brooklets and rivulets, until it is utilized in turning the
busy wheels of industrious machinery in many a factory before it is lost
in the Atlantic.
GIBBS’ FALLS, also near the hotel, are forty feet in height, divided by
a rocky cliff into two parts. They were named in honor of a former
landlord of the house.
BEECHER’S CASCADE, a half mile distant, may have had some other name,
but it is now lost in the distinction given it by a baptism experienced
by the eminent divine, not according to the method of Plymouth Church,
but more after the Roger Williams standard, and wholly involuntary.
[Illustration: CRAWFORD HOUSE, WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH.]
MOUNT WILLARD, sometimes called Mount Tom, or Tom Willard, although not
of great altitude, furnishes an excellent point of observation from its
summit, which is reached by a comfortable carriage ride. The view is
highly praised by good judges, Anthony Trollope declaring it unequaled
in all the classic Rhineland. Standing at the very gate of the Notch, it
commands an excellent view of the chasm, and the different mountains
which encompass it, together with a splendid prospect to the west and
north.
[Illustration: HERMIT’S POOL, FRANCONIA NOTCH.]
SILVER CASCADE and the FLUME CASCADE are two of the attractions of the
locality, which leap down the sides of Mount Webster in glorious
disorder, now spreading out over a rocky bed in a thin sheet of silver,
gathering again in some pool for a plunge over a precipice, breaking
into spray in the descent, then running swiftly in a narrow channel as
if gathering momentum for another grand leap, and so laughing, singing
and dancing on its way, to join the Saco in its noisy pilgrimage to the
sea.
THE WILLEY HOUSE, memorable as the scene of the disaster known in
history as the “Willey Slide,” is located under the steep acclivity of
Mount Willey, which rises some 2,000 feet above the house. Opposite are
the frowning cliffs of Mount Webster, with the Saco River flowing near.
The story of the fearful calamity is familiar, but its repetition may be
of interest to our readers. On the night of August 28, 1826, a terrible
storm occurred, swelling the brooklets into angry torrents, and
loosening the soil from its hold on the rocky acclivity of Mount Willey,
sending it down the mountain side with a fearful roar, threatening
destruction to everything in its path. Mr. Willey, his wife, five
children, and two hired men, comprised the inmates of the house; and it
is supposed that they became frightened and fled from the house to
escape the peril, and rushed into the very jaws of death, being
overwhelmed in the avalanche, not one escaping to tell the tale. The
faithful house-dog, however, appeared at Conway, and endeavored to give
intelligence of what had happened by all the resources of his power of
communication. The bodies of six of the victims were recovered, but
three of the children found permanent burial in the _debris_. The
saddest feature of the calamity is the fact that had they remained in
the house no harm would have befallen them, as a large rock at the back
of the house divided the slide, and sent it by on either side, leaving
the building untouched. The scarred side of the mountain still shows the
track of the avalanche, only enough soil being left to support a growth
of white birches.
AVALANCHE BROOK, so called from being regarded as the cause of the
disaster, has on it a beautiful cataract, called the SYLVAN GLADE
CATARACT, and higher up, another called SPARKLING CASCADE.
Such of the forgoing objects of interest as are visible from the train
are pointed out by the conductor and trainmen, and an occasional halt is
made to permit of a longer view of some point of special importance. If
time will permit, it is well to stop off at one or more of the stations,
and proceed by following trains. But whether this be your privilege or
not, the ride will be one not soon forgotten, and its repetition desired
and longed for.
Below Willey Mountain the valley opens out into a wider expanse, and the
scenery becomes less wild and romantic, but none the less beautiful with
the change. The Willey-Brook Bridge is a fine specimen of engineering
skill, and is crossed by the train, giving the courageous passengers a
chance to peer into the deep gulf which it spans, and the timid ones
occasion to “hold their breath” at the thought of a possible tumble,
should “anything happen.” The bridge, however, gives no occasion for
fear, as it is of enormous strength, although not ponderous in
appearance.
[Illustration: SCENES IN THE WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH.--P. & O. RAILROAD.]
A short distance below this point, the train crosses the famous
FRANKENSTEIN TRESTLE, an iron structure five hundred feet long and
eighty feet high. Near this are the GIANT’S STAIRS, MOUNT RESOLUTION and
MOUNT CRAWFORD, the latter nearly opposite Bemis Station. Near here is
the old Mount Crawford House, now closed, where Abel Crawford, the
pioneer for whom the Mountain and Notch were named, “kept tavern” for
many years, and told stories and legends of the mountains to his guests,
and, on occasion, piloted them to the haunts of the shy trout, or to
mountain summits, by paths long forgotten. His son, Ethan Allen
Crawford, cut the first bridle path to Mount Washington, in 1821.
[Illustration: VALLEY OF THE SACO RIVER.]
NANCY’S BROOK is soon reached and crossed, so named from a sad incident
involving the old story of a deserted maiden, and a recreant lover who
fled on the eve of the appointed wedding day, pursued by the poor girl,
who perished from exposure, and was found in the snow at the foot of a
tree, near the margin of the stream which now bears the name her mother
gave her, a kindly way of commemorating the event without involving the
family name.
SAWYER’S RIVER is crossed, as the road turns sharply to the eastward,
and at Upper Bartlett the interesting landmark known as SAWYER’S ROCK
commemorates the discovery of this pass, or rather the accomplishment
of an event which attested its discovery, viz., getting a horse through
the Notch, for which feat, as an evidence of the existence of the pass,
Nash, the discoverer, and a brother hunter, received from Governor
Wentworth a grant of land known as Nash & Sawyer’s Location. The last
obstacle being this rock, the poor beast was let down over it by means
of ropes, and Sawyer exultingly dashed his rum bottle against it, which
sufficed to christen it by the name it now bears.
At GLEN STATION, connection is made with the stage line for the Glen
House up the valley of Ellis River and through Pinkham Notch. Should the
traveler feel disposed to make this trip, he will find much to reward
him in the way of picturesque scenery, pleasant drives, etc. At a short
distance from the road where it crosses Ellis River, a fine waterfall,
known as GOODRICH FALLS may be seen. Passing the little village of
“Jackson City,” the road soon enters the pass known as PINKHAM NOTCH,
named from a family of early settlers, who constructed the Notch road.
[Illustration: GLEN-ELLIS FALL.]
GLEN-ELLIS FALL may be reached by a path diverging from the stage road.
The Ellis River here descends a precipice seventy feet high. From its
configuration it was formerly called “Pitcher Fall,” but the more poetic
but less descriptive title seems to cling to it.